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Tips From A First “Sail” on the ICW
Tillerpilot Tips and Safety Cautions
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- Sailboat Reviews
S2 8.5 Meter
The 8.5 is good for cruising the coasts in comfort and style--as long as you like the modern look..
When Leon Slikkers founded S2 Yachts in 1973, much of the attention to detail that had previously characterized Slickcraft powerboats—Slikkers’ earlier boatbuilding venture— traveled with him to the new boatbuilding company. In the 13 years S2 sailboats were in production (S2 still makes powerboats), the company produced a variety of modern cruising designs from the board of Arthur Edmunds, all characterized by longish fin keels, freestanding spade rudders, straight sheerlines, and a staggering variety of draft options and cockpit locations.
In the early ’80s, S2 reached more for the performance market with the Grand Slam series of small boats, and the 10.3 “offshore racer-cruiser.” These higher performance boats were designed by Scott Graham and Eric Schlageter, well known for their MORC and smaller IOR designs.
The S2 8.5 is a 28-footer cast in the company’s traditional mold. Her hull dimensions, sail area, displacement, and general design characteristics put her square in the middle of the modern 28-footers such as the Tanzer 8.5, Newport 28, O’Day 28, and the Pearson 28.
The boat’s styling is conventionally modern. She has a fairly straight sheer, fairly high freeboard, and low, raked cabin trunk with dark tinted flush ports. Production of the 8.5 ran from 1981 to 1983. The boat was replaced by the similar S2 8.6, which continued until S2 stopped making sailboats in 1986.
Construction
The hull of the S2 8.5 is a solid hand layup. Glasswork is excellent, and is noted by owners as one of the main considerations in buying the boat. Gelcoat quality is excellent.
Slight roving printthrough is evident, but it is not objectionable. Minor hard spots are visible in the topsides, probably caused by the attachment of interior furniture and bulkheads.
The deck molding is cored with end grain balsa, giving a solid feel underfoot as well as providing reasonable insulating properties.
S2’s hull-to-deck joint is the basic type that we would like to see adopted throughout the industry. The hull molding has an inward-turning flange, onto which the deck molding is dropped. The joint is bedded in flexible sealant, and through bolted on six inch intervals by bolts passing through the full length slotted aluminum toerail. The joint is also through bolted across the stem.
All deck hardware is properly through bolted, although pulpits, cleats, and winches merely use nuts and washers on the underside of the deck, rather than the aluminum or stainless steel backing plates we prefer.
Another feature of the hull-to-deck joint is a heavy, semi-rigid vinyl rubrail at the sheerline, quite aptly termed a “crash rubrail” by S2. This will go a long way toward absorbing the shock of the inevitable encounters with docks and the other hard objects that seem to be attracted to the topsides of the typical sailboat. Although this rail is black when the boat is new, it had dulled to a chalky gray on older S2’s we examined.
The builder advertises “bronze seacocks on all through hull fittings.” These are not traditional tapered plug seacocks, but are ball valves mounted directly to through hull fittings. A proper seacock—whether it uses a ball valve or a tapered plug—has a heavy flange to allow through bolting to the hull. This is an important safety feature. Should a valve seize, it may become necessary to apply a great deal of leverage to the handle in order to open or close the valve. The deeply threaded through hull stem can easily break under these conditions, and more than one boat has been lost in this manner.
We also suggest that seacocks be installed on the cockpit drain scuppers and the bilge pump outlet, both of which may be under water while the boat is sailing. Light air performance would benefit by the fairing in of the through hull fittings, particularly the head intake and discharge, both of which are far enough forward to have a significant effect on water flow past the hull.
Ballast is a 3,000 pound lead casting, epoxied inside a hollow keel shell. We prefer an external lead casting bolted to the hull for its shock-absorbing qualities and ease of repair. This preference was reinforced recently when we examined an old Bristol 27 just sold by a friend. The surveyor noticed dampness near the bottom of the leading edge of the keel, which showed slight external damage. Probing the loose putty revealed some abrasion of the glass keel molding. In order to sell the boat, it was necessary to grind away a large portion of the glass at the front of the keel, dry out the ballast, and reglass the lead—a job that took several days of work and cost our friend a fair chunk of money.
Much of the boat’s interior structure is plywood, glassed to the hull. Fillet bonding is neat and workmanlike with no rough edges to be found.
Chainplates are conventional stainless steel flat bar, bolted to bulkheads and plywood gussets in the main cabin. These are properly backed with stainless steel pads. Due to the fact that the hull is lined throughout with a carpet-like synthetic material, it is not possible to examine the bonding of the chainplate knees to the hull. The stemhead fitting is a stainless steel weldment, through bolted to the deck and hull and reinforced inside the hull with a stainless steel gusset to prevent deflection of the deck from the pull aft of the headstay. We’d like to see a metal backup pad behind this fitting rather than the washers which are used.
General construction is thoughtful and well executed, with excellent glasswork, a strong and simple hull-to-deck joint, and reasonably installed hardware and fittings.
Handling Under Power
Although some early models of the 8.5 used a seven horsepower BMW diesel, the 1982 version employs an eight horsepower Yanmar. These small Yanmars are quite impressive, light in weight and far smoother than the company’s older rockcrushers.
Because of the high freeboard and considerable windage of the 8.5, the standard engine is the absolute minimum power plant for the boat. Recognizing this fact, the company offered a 15 horsepower, two-cylinder Yanmar as an option. For another 75 pounds and $1,150, we would want this option on the boat if the ability to get places under power is a real consideration.
The extra fuel consumption of the larger engine will scarcely be noticed. The 18 gallon aluminum fuel tank will probably give a range under power of over 250 miles—more than adequate for a 28 foot cruising boat.
The fuel tank is located under the cockpit and is securely mounted and properly grounded. There is an easily reached fuel shut off between the engine and tank. Unfortunately, the fuel fill is located in the cockpit sole. Spilled diesel oil turns even the best fiberglass nonskid into an ice skating rink. Fuel fills should be located on deck, where spills can be efficiently washed away.
Engine access is via a large removable panel on the inboard face of the quarterberth. This panel lacks any kind of handhold to make it easily removable, which will discourage regular checking of the engine oil. The top companionway step also removes for access, but it’s a long reach to the dipstick.
There is no oil pan under the engine. It will be necessary to be very careful when changing oil to keep the bilge clean. We have yet to see anyone change oil and filters on a boat engine without spilling something.
With the quarterberth panel removed, access for routine service is excellent. The quarterberth has remarkable headroom over, so that the mechanic will not feel like a trapped spelunker after a half hour of work. Engine removal will require some joinerwork disassembly.
Handling Under Sail
The S2 8.5 is no slug under sail. Her PHRF rating of 174 to 180 compares very favorably to other boats of her size and type. The Sabre 28, for example, has a rating of 198. The Pearson 28 about 195, and the O’Day 28 about 198.
Part of this is no doubt due to the fact that the standard sails on the boat come from the North loft. While North’s OEM sails may not be the vertical cut Mylar-Kevlar wonders that adorn custom boats, they’re a lot better than most.
S2 now uses Hall spars. The simple masthead rig is extremely clean, with airfoil spreaders and internal tangs. The boom features an internal outhaul and provision for two internally-led reefing lines, with cam cleats at the forward end of the boom.
The deck-stepped mast is mounted in a stainless steel deck plate incorporating plenty of holes for the attachment of blocks. Halyards and Cunningham lead aft along the cabin house top to a pair of Lewmar #8 winches. Lewmar #16s are optional, but hardly necessary.
The main is controlled by a six-part Harken rig mounted on the end of the boom, and a Kenyon traveler mounted on the aft cockpit coaming. This will work fine with the tiller-steered version of the boat. With wheel steering, the mainsheet is likely to be a nuisance to the helmsman.
Because of the end-of-boom sheeting, a boom vang will be essential for full mainsail control. Ironically, the boat’s drawings show almost mid-boom sheeting, with the traveler mounted on the bridgedeck at the forward end of the cockpit. This is probably a better arrangement, although it heavily loads the center of the boom and requires more sheeting force.
Despite the fact that the shrouds are set well in from the rail, the boat lacks inboard headsail tracks. Rather, you are limited to snatch blocks shackled to the toerail track. A six-foot piece of track set inboard of the rail would be a useful addition.
Standard headsail sheet winches are two-speed Lewmar #30s. Options include both larger winches and self-tailers, both of which are worth considering for either racing or cruising. The cockpit coamings are wide enough for mounting larger primaries and secondaries.
The high-quality rig and sails add to the price of the S2, but they are additions well worth the cost.
Deck Layout
The deck layout of the 8.5 is clean and functional, with no toe stubbers to catch you unawares. There are two foredeck mooring cleats, but no bow chocks. The necessity to lead an anchor line well off the boat’s centerline, coupled with high freeboard forward, is likely to result in a boat which sails around on her anchor or mooring. The 8.5 has a pair of wide stainless steel chafing strips at the bow which will greatly protect the deck from the chafe of the anchor line.
The 8.5’s foredeck anchor well is one of the best we’ve seen. It is shallow—just deep enough to hold an anchor and adequate rode. There are double scuppers, which offer less likelihood of clogging. The lid is held on by a full-length piano hinge, and there is a positive latch.
The shallow locker well above the waterline means that water is less likely to enter through the scuppers, which can be a real problem with a deep anchor well. When the bow pitches into waves, a deep anchor well can fill with water, and if the scuppers clog with debris, you can find yourself sailing around with several hundred pounds of extra weight in the worst possible position. There is no provision for securing the bitter end of the anchor rode, but a big galvanized eyebolt installed in the well by the owner will solve that one.
The running lights leave something to be desired. Their location at deck level just aft of the stem makes them vulnerable to damage when handling ground tackle. We much prefer an international style bicolor mounted on the pulpit, another two feet off the water: easier to see, and out of the way. Wiring for the running lights is exposed in the anchor well, and should be secured out of the way.
A recessed teak handrail runs the full length of the cabin trunk, serving the dual function of heavy weather handhold and cabin trim piece. Its shape makes it far easier to oil or varnish than the conventional round handrail, although the wide, flat section seems somewhat awkward after years of grabbing round rails.
The 8.5’s cockpit is the maximum size we’d want to see on a boat of this size. The T-shape is designed to accommodate the optional wheel steerer, yielding a somewhat odd layout for the tiller-steered version. A bench seat spans the aft end of the cockpit. Although this makes good seating in port, we doubt that you’d want anyone sitting there under sail: too much weight in the end of the boat. It does make a natural helmsman’s seat for wheel steering.
The engine controls and instrument panel are also located at the aft end of the cockpit, and are basically inaccessible to the helmsman of a tiller-steered version.
There are two lifting lids in the aft cockpit bench, giving access to a cavernous space under the cockpit. To be useful, dacron bags should be fitted to the inside of these lockers. Then, they’ll be handy stowage for spare sheets and blocks.
There are comfortable contoured seats along each side of the cockpit, with a huge locker under the port seat. Although plywood pen boards somewhat separate this locker from the engine space under the cockpit, it would be far too easy for deeply piled junk to get knocked over the board and into the engine. This locker should be partitioned into smaller spaces unless it is to be used exclusively as a sail locker.
The battery boxes, fitted at the forward end of the locker, could benefit from plywood or fiberglass lids to keep battery acid off gear which might find its way onto the batteries. The box is designed to take two batteries—one battery is standard—stored in plastic containers. A single lid covering the whole box would be more efficient.
The huge cockpit will accommodate up to six for sailing, and eight for in-port partying. The cockpit seat bottoms are contoured, and the cockpit coamings slope outboard for more comfortable seating. However, the seats are both too narrow and too short for sleeping.
The forward end of the cockpit is protected by a narrow bridgedeck. However, the cockpit coatings extend a full foot above the level of the bridgedeck, To block the companionway to the level of the top of the coamings will require leaving two of the three drop boards in place when sailing.
Although there is moderate taper to the sides of the companionway, making it easier to remove the drop boards, it is still necessary to lift each board about five inches before it can be removed. This is far safer than many tapered companionways, where boards practically fall out if you look at them wrong. The companionway slide is one of the best we’ve seen. It’s a contoured piece of acrylic fitted with a convenient grabrail. It slides easily in extruded aluminum channels, and is fitted with a fiberglass storm hood. As on many boats, the aft cabin bulkhead slopes forward, rendering it impossible to leave the drop boards out for ventilation when it rains.
Owners consistently praise the interior design and finishing of S2 sailboats. From looking at the 8.5, it’s pretty easy to see why.
There are no exposed interior fiberglass surfaces except the head floor pan molding. The hull and cabin overhead are lined with a carpet-like synthetic fabric. While this will undoubtedly cut down on condensation, we at first wondered how this fabric would hold up over time. Inevitably, the hull liner and even the overhead will get wet. In freshwater areas, this is no problem. The water will eventually evaporate. In salt water, however, wet fabric never seems to dry. Salt draws moisture like a magnet draws steel. Since first seeing this boat, however, we’ve had good experiences with the fabric. Be sure, however, to get a good wet-or-dry vacuum to keep it clean.
Interior layout is fairly conventional, with Vberths forward, and immediately aft, a full width head. The head can be closed off from both the forward cabin and the main cabin with solid doors—a real luxury in a boat this size. There is a large hanging locker in the head, and reasonable storage space for toilet articles.
The word for the main cabin is “wide,” with the settees pushed as far outboard as they can go. Décor is a little heavy on the teak for our taste, but it is one of the better coordinated interiors we have seen. S2 had a good interior decorator.
A fold-down dining table seats four. When folded against the bulkhead, it is held in place by a single latch, which makes us nervous.
Neither settee is full length. The foot of the port settee runs under the galley counter, making it long enough for sleeping, although your feet may feel a little claustrophobic in the tiny footwell.
The starboard settee is an unusual configuration. The aftermost 12″ of the settee folds up to form an arm rest, leaving a gap between the end of the settee and the head of the quarterberth.
Inexplicably, this gap is referred to on the accommodation plan as a “charting area,” although there is neither a standard nor an optional chart table. It’s sort of like the designer ran out of energy before completing the interior design.
Over the non-existent “charting area” is the best electrical panel we’ve seen on a 28 foot boat. The panel has a locking battery switch, battery test meter, and a panel with room for 14 circuit breakers, although only half are installed on the standard boat.
The space is welcome, since with the proliferation of marine electronics most electrical panels are woefully inadequate.
Most quarterberths tend to induce claustrophobia. That of the 8.5 is more likely to exacerbate any tendencies you might have to agoraphobia. At last, a quarterberth which will not give you a concussion when you sit bolt upright in the middle of the night after your neighbor drags down on you in a wind shift.
The standard main cabin sole is carpet-covered fiberglass. For an additional $325, teak and holly was available for the traditionalist. We’d want it. Unfortunately there is no access to the bilge in the main cabin. None. This is inexcusable, and could be dangerous. A few hours with a saber saw should solve this rather basic problem.
The galley is workable and accessible, with no awkward posturing required to do the dishes. The sink gets an A+. It is a full nine inches deep, is large enough to take a frying pan, and mounted close to the centerline.
In contrast, the icebox gets a C-. It is larger than normal on a boat of this size, but it drains to the bilge, has a poorly insulated top, and a tiny, uninsulated hatch without a trace of a gasket. Boo.
Because of limited counter space, the two burner Kenyon alcohol stove is mounted athwartships, rather than fore and aft. This means that the stove cannot be gimballed, and that it is necessary to reach across the inboard burner to reach the outboard one. Given the fact that countertop gimballed stoves are usually dangerous, the lack of gimballing doesn’t bother us much. What does bother us is that if you want to upgrade the stove to something more functional, the limited space allocated will stretch your ingenuity.
A fold down table at the end of the galley counter gives additional counter space, but it must be left up in order to use the port settee for sleeping.
Roominess, excellent execution, and good color coordination are trademarks of the interiors of all S2s, and the 8.5 fits well into this enviable tradition.
Conclusions
The S2 8.5 is a good boat for cruising the Great Lakes or any coast in comfort and a certain amount of style. Her appearance may be a little modern for traditionalists, with her straight sheer and European-style cabin windows.
Pricey? Yes, but when you look at the things that go into the boat—the rig, good sails, and a comfortable, well finished interior—the price may seem a bit less painful. You still pay for what you get.
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Build Quality: Ericson, Pearson, Sabre, Tartan
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Looking for people's thoughts on build quality between Ericson, Pearson, Sabre and Tartan. From reviews I've read, it appears that Sabre and Tartan are often considered a superior boat builder, while Ericson and Pearson were respectable and solid boat builders although perhaps a cut below the Sabre and Tartan. Thoughts? Maybe throw in Catalinas and Hunters too since they are popular boats. Also, looking for comments on the specifics of "build quality" and how this matters on a practical level, as it seems that plenty of people are happy with their boats that are from the supposedly more average "build quality" boat builders. GRR
I don't know too much about the Ericson's. Pearsons, at least the ones I've sailed on are very solid boats...I don't know if I'd put them a cut below Tartan Or Sabre....from a construction perspective..some may argue that they were a cut above.... I would place Catalinas and Hunters in a different category..but very popular and suitable boats for most of today's coastal sailors....in the end it comes down to what you are looking for from a boat Intended use, sailing grounds, depth, accomodations, budget etc etc.
Tempest said: I don't know too much about the Ericson's. Pearsons, at least the ones I've sailed on are very solid boats...I don't know if I'd put them a cut below Tartan Or Sabre....from a construction perspective..some may argue that they were a cut above.... I would place Catalinas and Hunters in a different category..but very popular and suitable boats for most of today's coastal sailors....in the end it comes down to what you are looking for from a boat Intended use, sailing grounds, depth, accomodations, budget etc etc. Click to expand...
there are many aspects to your question, that have been debated and worse. Are you comparing "older" boats of the same vintage...or new Tartan/Sabre to older Ericson and Pearson? As a former Sabre owner, and current Hunter owner, I can give you quite a bit on both. Sabre is definitely a step up in quality, but would you see it day sailing or overniting? Is Sabre perfect, not by a long shot...my boat suffered from the mast step issue..it was a mid 80's boat, and you would think it would have been solved in subsequent years...wasn't. New Tartans have had some build issues (you may have to look elsewhere for that debate, as the former owners flew hot and threatened a lot of folks) and the "newest" owners are building again, but the jury is out. Are the same vintage boats the same, I would say that the Tartan and Sabre of the 80's were better built than the Ericson and Pearson, but they were all built heavy in that time of similar materials and quality. You would need to let us know what your goals for the boat are to better answer. If you have questions on Sabre 38 or Hunter 42 or Beneteau 36CC, I can help you with real answers, as I have owned/own them. All the best
You're right, a lot of different points of discussion. I'll clarify. I'm looking for a boat to spend weekends on and daysail on Lake Erie with the versatility to go for a longer cruise up to Georgian Bay/North Channel. So, I'm looking for comfortable space/accomodations, stability to handle Lake Erie's quick temper, and I'm guessing shallow draft capability (a centerboard perhaps?) to have the versatility to explore North Channel. I'm guessing that most days on Lake Erie the shallow draft won't matter, but I don't want to be limited in where I can take her. A bit of speed wouldn't be so bad either. I'm looking mostly at 1980's-early 1990's vintage boats because budget is 35-45k, so I'm not really trying to compare newer Tartans and Sabres. Still waffling back and forth about boat length too, but I really don't want to buy and sell several boats, so I'm leaning toward getting a larger (i.e., 34-36, rather than 30-31) to start. Just did ASA 101,103, and 104 on a 43' boat, so that helped me feel that a 34 was manageable to start. I will also probably be single-handing it a fair bit. I've been looking mostly in the 33-36 foot range including Tartan 34-2, Pearson 34, Sabre 34 and 36 and Ericson 35-III. Thanks for your response. GRR
GRR either vintage Sabre or Tartan would do you fine for the things you describe. The Sabre 38 that I had before this boat was as close to perfect boat for those types of things as you could want. Some folks even RACE them, (sorry Mark - had to add that) like my former slipmate. The 38 had a centerboard and was quite useful here on Chesapeake Bay, and never once felt unstable or tender in all kinds of weather. Very comfortable below, with great live aboard space without compromising sailing ability. If I had it to do over, I would have kept her, as the extra few feet and the aft queen of the hunter are nice...but not at the expense of the quality and speed of the Sabre. I crewed on Tartans of that era and they too, are well built, speedy and comfortable. Below decks a different style perhaps, than the Sabre. Either would be at the top of my list. Others will give you more on Ericsons and Pearsons, I have only crewed on them a very few times, and do not have experience to really have an opinion. I do know that the Ericson kept up with the Tartans for the most part. All the best, and enjoy the Georgian Bay, IMHO, it is likely one of the prettiest places on the planet, but can be a handful when the wind kicks up.
kd3pc, Thanks for your advice. It reinforces what I have read elsewhere. While a 38is probably a little bigger boat than I want at this point, I will definitely take a close look at the Sabre 34 and 36. My guess is that I can't go too wrong with any of these builders unless the particular boat I choose was not cared for. I'm still trying to grasp the concept of "build quality" and the differences between the various builders. From the pictures I've seen, the Georgian Bay/North Channel area looks pristine. That will be a trip for future after many day sails and weekenders on Lake Erie for experience. BTW, I was just out for a visit to the Cheseapeake Bay area on a boat shopping trip (Annapolis, Georgetown) and it is a beautiful area. I may be making a return trip in the near future for round 2 of boat shopping. Thanks again, GRR
T37Chef said: Try to find that 1% boat in a size you will be comfortable with. Your budget should include anywhere between 10-20% for outfitting, repairs, upgrades, etc. There are lots of great boats on the market in your price range, don't rush and find that boat that is just right for you. I don't think you would go wrong with any of the ones you're looking at if its been well cared for Check out a Tartan 34C. Click to expand...
A lot of boats to a degree were more heavily built if you will back in the 80s vs today. I can compare my 85 jeanneau to a current one, there ARE some differences. I have seen similar in Bene's also. Hunter might be the only one that seemed to have some issues with 80's builds IIRC. There was a decade that they were not too good! Otherwise, frankly, look at the maintenance of the boat vs brand. Not that it has been mentioned, but after 20-30 yrs, you will find some badly built Hunters that will be better overall than a GREATLY built swan of that vintage.....assuming you look hard enough! Reality is, ANY of the major producton built brands from that era will be good. Try to figure out boat style and type vs brand. Ericson has some race/cruisers, and some that were just plain cruisers! The latter would not be a first choice for me and how I sail. But I know of a fellow across puget sound that luvs his E30Cruiser! He wrote and had published a review int he most recent issue of Cruising World. He also writes for GOB too. I personally look for race/crusiers. I would also not look too bad on A4's, they seem to be good motors for what they were designed and intended to do etc. Marty
blt2ski said: Otherwise, frankly, look at the maintenance of the boat vs brand. Not that it has been mentioned, but after 20-30 yrs, you will find some badly built Hunters that will be better overall than a GREATLY built swan of that vintage.....assuming you look hard enough! Reality is, ANY of the major producton built brands from that era will be good. Try to figure out boat style and type vs brand. Ericson has some race/cruisers, and some that were just plain cruisers! The latter would not be a first choice for me and how I sail. But I know of a fellow across puget sound that luvs his E30Cruiser! He wrote and had published a review int he most recent issue of Cruising World. He also writes for GOB too. I personally look for race/crusiers. I would also not look too bad on A4's, they seem to be good motors for what they were designed and intended to do etc. Marty Click to expand...
Some folks even RACE them, (sorry Mark - had to add that) like my former slipmate. Click to expand...
ANY of the major producton built brands from that era will be good. Click to expand...
Sabreman said: Find the boat that suits your pocketbook and tickles your fancy, then buy it. They're all good. BTW, Sabre 38's of mid 80's vintage in good conditions are about $40k higher than the budget listed. Not sure what a 34 would go for. Click to expand...
GRR: As an Ericson owner call me biased... BUT as I have read Ericson was more an Oldsmobile in a Chevy market.... they were a little to high quality to compete price wise. Bruce King the designer was very well respected, a lot of attention to detail, just look at the interiors etc. Browse around at ericsonyachts.org ask questions, Martin King, (Bruce Kings son) is active there and knows all about design and build features. A 27 ,my boat, for a long time held the record between S.F. and Japan. They are beautiful high quality boats.
All the boats mentioned would be absolutely fine, and as others have said and said well, at 20-30 years old, maintenance by previous owners is the whole show. Pearson is easily on this list, and maybe a few C&C's and even J-boats should be as well.
Puddinlegs, Thanks for the feedback. I don't know much about J-boats. I thought they were racers that sacrificed a lot of stability for speed. I will have to research them more. Thanks. GRR
J's might very well fit your need. IIRC the 35 or 35c would make good cruisers. Even the 37/37c. The c at the end just means IIRC that they have a bit nicer interior. along with it is easier to find a shoal draft version. The C versions will be a bit more money. Good old boat about a year or so ago did an article on a 32 ie July/August 2010. I could probably scan that review. The other boat is a Jeanneau Arcadia. an attalia is simalar, but about 2' longer, and a different designer. Then a sunshine 36/38 is a longer version, same designer as teh Arcadia. Sailing mag also has many reviews of some older boats too. CS from that era also have a nice boat too. A dock/yc mate bought a 36 merlin last summer. Nice boat, look up Dejonda on here, along with mitempo? sp? has a CS 30, also Castro designs like the Arcadia, and sunshine boats. Marty
My horizons are expanding even further. You have given me a number of new boats to consider. I'll have to do some more research. Thanks Marty.
GRR, why shop in Annapolis? A well-maintained, Great Lakes sailed, Catalina, Hunter, Beneteau, or Ericson or Sabre would be better value than an East Coast saltwater-sailed Sabre. The boats may the same age, but the lake boat will have half as much usage, no hurricane exposure, annual haul-outs, less UV damage, no saltwater exposure, and will be about the same price, or less.
bljones, Initially, I was looking primarily at Tartan 34-2 and 33 and there were few of them in my price range for sale here in the Great Lakes believe it or not. More of the Tartan 34C, which has beautiful exterior lines, but a rather spartan interior. And I was not really considering those other builders at first, but after I got on board a 1985 Pearson 34 that I really liked (save for the deep draft), I started looking more broadly at other builders. Those concerns that you mentioned are very real and certainly it would be easier to get a boat closer to home. If I can find "the one" (if such a boat exists) in the Great Lakes, I'll be thrilled. GRR
Pearson 10m Someone should speak up for the Pearsons. I have owned the same Pearson 10m (10 meter, 32.8 feet I think) since 1975. Hard to believe I bought it when I was 25, and was working on it this morning at age 61. We have raced, cruised, raised children and grandchildren on it. It has been sturdy and virtually indestructible. It has been a great sailing boat, still outpointing and quicker than many newer boats. It is moderate displacement at 12,000 pounds, fin keel, skeg hung rudder. The early 10m (serial number less than 100) had a chainplate issue which was resolved in the post #100 boats, AMD could be fixed in the earlier boats. I mention all of this because the late 70s and early 80s pearsons were built more heavily than the ericsons. I love the lines of the ericsons, and their trademark black mast, but I would rather be on my Pearson in an Open Ocean blow. Prices are way down on the 10m. I have a theory that any boat that cannot be immediately identified by the name as to size doesn't have as good a resale. Tartan 10s are an example, but a very different boat. Hope this helps. Mike
mgraham49 said: It has been a great sailing boat, still outpointing and quicker than many newer boats. It is moderate displacement at 12,000 pounds, fin keel, skeg hung rudder. I mention all of this because the late 70s and early 80s pearsons were built more heavily than the ericsons. I love the lines of the ericsons, and their trademark black mast, but I would rather be on my Pearson in an Open Ocean blow. Mike Click to expand...
I dont think anyone said Pearson are not great boats?
HERE is the Arcadia review. There are only about 20 in the states. The attalia which is considered a 32' boat is very similar as mentioned, but much more findable, as is the Sunshine. ALL three models have fin and CB versions. Sundream, Sun light are some newer versions of these. Older jeanneau's are worth taking a peak at. For me if you look at a Beneteau, look at some of the first series versions. These are nice interior wise, but have some speed and are ment to be raced then cruised, or cruised very fast. Most unfortunately for you, will be deeper keels. I have not heard that shoal keels are needed as much on the GL's as they are on the east coast in salt water. I would not personally rule one out if you can. If frieghters are moving about on the lakes with 15-20' drafts, a 5-7' draft sailboat should not have issues! or to me, at least no more than a 3-5' draft one! But that is coming from someone that sails in 300-600+ feet of water here in Puget Sound, shoal draft boats are a liability to sell vs deep draft boats! As mentioned by the fellow with the Pearson, they are good boats. I know another fellow that has had one for many years, and know who sold it to him. 20 yrs tween them and it is still moving. BUT< the recent owner mentioned yesterday he has an offer or is close to do so on a C310! I think that one will be a bit nicer for him and spouse since they are close to retiring! I would also suggest a boat if possible with in your budget newer than about 82, you will not have the pinched transoms from the late 70's IOR heyday. WHile upwind great boats, down wind, they can get tricky. That is a me personal opinion...not that it is worth much. Marty
blt2ski said: HERE is the Arcadia review. There are only about 20 in the states. The attalia which is considered a 32' boat is very similar as mentioned, but much more findable, as is the Sunshine. ALL three models have fin and CB versions. Sundream, Sun light are some newer versions of these. Older jeanneau's are worth taking a peak at. Thanks for scanning this review. I did a quick scan of yachtworld and could not find any in my range. I did find some J-boats and CS. I think I like a more traditional looking boat rather than the sleek, more contemporary look of these boats. For me if you look at a Beneteau, look at some of the first series versions. These are nice interior wise, but have some speed and are ment to be raced then cruised, or cruised very fast. Most unfortunately for you, will be deeper keels. I have not heard that shoal keels are needed as much on the GL's as they are on the east coast in salt water. I would not personally rule one out if you can. If frieghters are moving about on the lakes with 15-20' drafts, a 5-7' draft sailboat should not have issues! or to me, at least no more than a 3-5' draft one! But that is coming from someone that sails in 300-600+ feet of water here in Puget Sound, shoal draft boats are a liability to sell vs deep draft boats! Yes, I have been considering how much the draft matters for where I will sail. Most of the time the shallow draft won't matter as I will be day sailing and weekending on Lake Erie, but I would like the versatility to take a longer cruise up to Georgian Bay/North Channel. I'm not sure, but I'm guessing a shallow draft would be needed in this case. If not, the shallow draft is not that important. As mentioned by the fellow with the Pearson, they are good boats. I know another fellow that has had one for many years, and know who sold it to him. 20 yrs tween them and it is still moving. BUT< the recent owner mentioned yesterday he has an offer or is close to do so on a C310! I think that one will be a bit nicer for him and spouse since they are close to retiring! Yes, I'm liking the Pearsons a good deal. I would also suggest a boat if possible with in your budget newer than about 82, you will not have the pinched transoms from the late 70's IOR heyday. WHile upwind great boats, down wind, they can get tricky. That is a me personal opinion...not that it is worth much. Marty Click to expand...
When did blistering stop being an issue? I know that it had something to do with the resins and glass, and have the sense that it isn't much of an issue on newer boats, but to what extent is blistering an issue in 80s boats?
Marty, Well, I have managed to put my response into the quote of your last post. I'm still getting the hang of this site. I suppose I needed to hit the multi-quote button at the bottom to respond to different segments of your post individually? GRR
Not sure about the shallow draft Marty, In case this point got lost as I managed to embed it in your quote from a previous post, I've been debating how important a shallow draft is for me. Most days it probably won't be important as I will daysail and weekend on Lake Erie. There are some islands near by for weekending, so it could be an issue there. I also want to have the versatility to take a longer cruise up to the Georgian Bay/North Channel and I'm thinking a shallow draft would likey be needed there. GRR
Always consider the boats that are still in production. There is a reason why Hunter and Catalina are still being built today while some of the others are not. Also, you will get better customer service from a manufacturer that is still around today versus one that went out 20 years ago.
Buying from current versus past manufacturer. This is an interesting consideration and I've heard opinions on both sides. Marty makes the point that rarely does he need a part directly from Jenneau. And I wondered the same thing, how often would you need something directly from the builder. To my novice eye, it seems that the most important thing about the builder is that they develop a structurally sound boat (i.e., hull/deck/keel). Beyond this, much of the boat is not unique to the builder (i.e., engine).
Something to think about, While Pearson 'quit" selling there own brands, they STILL MAKE boats per say. IE J-boats, Aleron Express to name a couple of brands they subcontract too. Pinched stern.....need to find some pics. but the Ericson depending upon the year may very well have on. If you can find a pic of a San Juan 24, this is the hull form in which I speak of. Others have it. If you can get on a bit less pinched, ie like the Jeanneau in the review above. Most J's do not have the pinched stern. A friends P29 or 30 has a bit of one........ Major blistering was late 70's to early 80's IIRC, more from N American built boats vs European. This was as much to do with the fuel crises at the time. ALso, the ones that went BK in the 80's, frankly not that I should get political, BUT at least in the US, the feds put a rather large tax on boats of X size or larger or maybe it was price, pretty much killled, and many stayed killed the ability of boat manufactures here in the states. It was not due to bad running of the manufactures. Altho some, ie the ones Bangar Punta bought, this may be the running body screwing them up, ie Ranger, Oday, cal, to name three in NA< and they owned Jeanneau too, but the French government found a local to buy the assets, keep it running, 10 yrs later Group beneteau bought the company..... Even thos Jeanneau still exists, they have gone thru SOO many variations of different sizes, that finding parts for my boat in the review is pretty much a "i'm on my own" I would suspect that of even some other still currently manufactures boats frankly! Then again, there are very few items I need direct from Jeanneau, so I do not worry personally about factory assistance. Marty
GRR, I think that you're beginning to experience what I was when we were looking for our latest boat. Even though we'd owned a Sabre 28 for 15 years, I was scanning the entire market and started thrashing. When there are too many choices, it's easy to become paralyzed with all the variations available. Finally, my wife (bless her) suggested that we stay with Sabre because we'd had so much luck with them (3 years on a Sabre 34 as crew racing, then the Sabre 28). After she said that, within a week I'd narrowed the search to 3 Sabres (2 34s and a 38). We looked at all three in a day and bought the 38. The point is that all the boats that you mention are great. I'd recommend narrowing the search to the one that is most affordable and which strikes your eye, and then buy it. When you do, don't look back at any other boat, especially to compare prices. Sail the thing! Good Luck, Mark PS. My wife's advice was so good that I put her name on the boat.
Sabreman said: GRR, I think that you're beginning to experience what I was when we were looking for our latest boat. Even though we'd owned a Sabre 28 for 15 years, I was scanning the entire market and started thrashing. When there are too many choices, it's easy to become paralyzed with all the variations available. Finally, my wife (bless her) suggested that we stay with Sabre because we'd had so much luck with them (3 years on a Sabre 34 as crew racing, then the Sabre 28). After she said that, within a week I'd narrowed the search to 3 Sabres (2 34s and a 38). We looked at all three in a day and bought the 38. The point is that all the boats that you mention are great. I'd recommend narrowing the search to the one that is most affordable and which strikes your eye, and then buy it. When you do, don't look back at any other boat, especially to compare prices. Sail the thing! Good Luck, Mark PS. My wife's advice was so good that I put her name on the boat. Click to expand...
Sabre is still in business ( 41 years) and providing excellent service to their customers past and present..... Just saying. I don't know what business decision went into their discontinuing the 34 or 362.. I've sailed quite a bit on the 386 and it's a sweet ride... I talked to the owner and went aboard an '87 34 MK11 that came into my yard to haul out on Saturday..it looked like a brand new boat... which is really what you want to see when you buy a 25 year old boat...How much did the PO love her...regardless of what model or manufacturer you choose....and then does it call to you..
Tempest said: I talked to the owner and went aboard an '87 34 MK11 that came into my yard to haul out on Saturday..it looked like a brand new boat... which is really what you want to see when you buy a 25 year old boat...How much did the PO love her...regardless of what model or manufacturer you choose....and then does it call to you.. Click to expand...
Did you guys have Lasanga and hot garlic bread for dinner? Click to expand...
I don't know what business decision went into their discontinuing the 34 or 362 Click to expand...
GRR, My cost frankly, "IS" in line with what others locally have spent at times from my marina/yc etc. this 10-20%, ie for me $2-4K of an initial coast of $22K. The problem is, some of the items cost $X, no matter the size/cost of the boat. So if you need a knotmeter, $400-600 for the unit! If you bought a 5K boat, your now at you budget for redoing things. Frankly, depending upon the what you need to do, 20-30K would not surprise me, so that would be more in the 40-60% of your budget with out looking back on some posts. That 20-30K does not go out the door overnight, it was over 3-4 yrs, and STILL going out the door! HERE is a link for the interior redo on the jeanneau owners site. then a link to the head redo is at the bottom of the aft stateroom redo too. Then you can see from the aft room, the change from the stock cushions to the new ones in the article. SO yes, we have done a lot, but compared to some, with in reason too. marty
Interesting that the thread has wandered into the dreaded "cost" topic. When we bought Victoria in 2005, she was in good condition but needed updating throughout. She was offered at $95k, we settled on $85k and went to survey which found a rotted bulkhead due to leaking chainplates. We renegotiated and took $10k off, settling for $75k. Since then, we've put in $15k, so that's 20% over six years. I do all my own work so I'm sure that the yard costs would double (?) that number if they were to do it. The point is that boats of this vintage (1984) WILL require work, regardless of pedigree. I have also found that unless equipment is less than 10 years old, it will need replacing or repair. So don't sweat all the do-dads; they should have NO bearing on your purchase decision because you'll replace them anyway within 5 years. We knew what we were getting into and decided that my sweat equity was worth more than the extra interest payments and thrashing that I would endure if I waited for the perfect boat (which doesn't exist). So here we are 6 seasons later and the boat is how I want it. So what did I find today? A leaking chainplate. The cycle starts again. The point is to buy quality. The money that you put into the boat will be worth it. A link to photos and an honest list of repairs follows: VICTORIA (and her mistress) Bottom paint Replace Battery Charger Replace interior lights Replace AM/FM w/ CD/AM/FM Replace GPS/ remove Loran Remove screen from diesel fuel line Replace wing nuts w/ aircraft nuts on batteries Rebuild steps Zero Compass Replace mainsail cover, wheel cover, winch covers, bimini cover Install leather wheel cover Service Masthead lights Repair bulkhead in anchor well Install stainless air vents Replace running rigging PSS shaft seal 1" diameter shaft x 48" length Cutlass bearing (1 3/8") Knotmeter paddle wheel replacement Replace cabin light for Vberth w/Anti-corrosion Repair port fwd lower chainplate & associated cabinetry Fill hole in leading edge of keel Overhaul port side through-hulls. Work all others. Repair centerboard pendant. new bilge pump switch. R/R check valve Install vented loopfor auto bilge pump Install bronze A/C discharge thru hull fitting. Replace clinometer Install soap & toothbrush holders New o-rings for depth sounder & knowmeter install hatch holders on lazarette hatches Refrubish genoa Replace starter solenoid Build new Vberth, Qtr berth, & spacer cushions New engine tachometer Fix F/W system. Bypass accumulator, bypass H/W heater. Purchase & install new radio & home speakers reapir rotted anchor well bulkhead Rebuild F/W pump Refinish cabin sole Repair fordeck light Finish interior w/ urethane Certified water hose & fittings for A/C sea water intake Build new Bimini Repair stbd upper lifeline stern rail fitting Paint hatch frame white/ new gasketing Replace Raw Water pump New cushion foam Replace engine raw water pump Repair galley delta faucet Refurbish Wind Guage/ Knotmeter Replace Fresh Water pump Strip Bottom, fair keel. new 7:1 vang new VHF radio Fix anchor well wood strip. Replace w/ painted pressure treated wood Repaint waterline & sheer stripe (Port Kinsale/MM) Repair Refrigerator New Lifelines New-ish biradial 145% genoa/new lufftape high gloss varnish interior window frames, overhead trim new VHF handheld strip/refinish cockpit teak Rebuild pressure water pump New genoa LED masthead & Stern lights Strip Bottom Paint/fair keel Dodger Bimini life ring lantern NAV software & GPS NAV charts SS Cowl (2 - 4" round) SS Cowl (4 - 4" low profile) swivel reading light (brass) running rigging Leather Cover for wheel high gloss interior handrails Replace centerboard cable / repair SS pulley/housing Mainsail Rebuild traveler 4:1 / new cam cleats Add blocks & cam cleats for adjustable spin pole track New fuel guage and sender New bilge 2000 GPH pump
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Review of S2 8.6
Basic specs..
The hull is made of fibreglass. Generally, a hull made of fibreglass requires only a minimum of maintenance during the sailing season. And outside the sailing season, just bottom cleaning and perhaps anti-fouling painting once a year - a few hours of work, that's all.
The S2 8.6 has been built with different keel alternatives.
One option is a fin keel. A boat with a fin keel is more manoeuvrable but has less directional stability than a similar boat with a full keel.
The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 1.19 - 1.29 meter (3.90 - 4.20 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.
Another option is a fin keel.
The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 1.37 - 1.47 meter (4.49 - 4.79 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.
S2 8.6 is typically equipped with an inboard Yanmar 2GM diesel engine
Sailing characteristics
This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.
What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?
The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 6.4 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.
The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for S2 8.6 is about 133 kg/cm, alternatively 746 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 133 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 746 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.
Sailing statistics
This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.
What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?
What is a Ballast Ratio?
Maintenance
When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 21m 2 (226 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.
Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale
If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.
| Usage | Length | Diameter | ||
| Mainsail halyard | 24.9 m | (81.8 feet) | 8 mm | (5/16 inch) |
| Jib/genoa halyard | 24.9 m | (81.8 feet) | 8 mm | (5/16 inch) |
| Spinnaker halyard | 24.9 m | (81.8 feet) | 8 mm | (5/16 inch) |
| Jib sheet | 8.5 m | (28.0 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Genoa sheet | 8.5 m | (28.0 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Mainsheet | 21.3 m | (70.0 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Spinnaker sheet | 18.8 m | (61.6 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Cunningham | 3.9 m | (12.8 feet) | 8 mm | (5/16 inch) |
| Kickingstrap | 7.8 m | (25.6 feet) | 8 mm | (5/16 inch) |
| Clew-outhaul | 7.8 m | (25.6 feet) | 8 mm | (5/16 inch) |
This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.
Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.
We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for S2 8.6 it would be a great help.
If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.
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- By Richard Smith
- Updated: October 22, 2012
Within a wide field of well-designed and competitive racer/cruisers of the 1970s, the S2 9.2 stands out, mainly because it wears its age very well. Without a scoop transom and boarding steps or skinny portlights below the sheer, it still looks modern. The flat sheer, sloping deckhouse, almost-flush Lexan forward hatch, hinged anchor lid, and tinted deadlights are familiar features on boats built three decades later. The carefully detailed teak handrails set on molded fiberglass spacers are unobtrusive while emphasizing the hull’s refined shape and unified design. Nothing is exaggerated in the interest of the fashions of the day or to suit a rating rule.
Powerboat builder Leon R. Slikkers founded S2 Yachts in 1974 and commissioned Arthur Edmonds, designer of the Allied Princess 36 and Mistress 39, to design the S2 9.2A (for its aft cockpit) and the S2 9.2C (for its center cockpit). Over 700 A and C models were sold. Both versions have the same hull, fin keel, partially balanced skeg-hung rudder, and masthead sloop rig. The single-spreader aluminum mast, painted black (an S2 trademark) is stepped on deck over a compression post that’s built into the main bulkhead.
The hull is solid, hand-laid fiberglass. It has an inward-turning flange at the sheer to which the balsa-cored deck is bolted through an extruded aluminum toerail. There’s no molded interior liner. Bulkheads and furniture are tabbed to the hull, which contributes to its structural stiffness. Two tons of lead ballast is encapsulated in a sealed keel cavity. Well-cared-for boats show little wear and tear after three decades of hard sailing, and, owners agree, the gelcoat is generally free of stress cracks even where moldings take tight bends.
The T-shaped cockpit is comfortable and workmanlike. The starboard seat opens to general storage and access to the stuffing box and engine controls. Additional storage is located under the helmsman’s seat in twin lazarettes.
Everything on deck is carefully laid out. The mainsail is sheeted abaft the 28-inch wheel, where it’s out of the way but in reach of the helmsman. The 8-inch stern cleats are mounted on anti-chafing pads and close to hand. Engine controls are similarly convenient to the helm. Early boats had Atomic 4s, but a variety of diesel engines were fitted after 1978.
The engine box provides a wide first step down to the cabin. A small corner galley to starboard of the companionway contains a sink, icebox, and stove. Opposite is a quarter berth and navigation space with a folding seat and table. Headroom is 6 feet 3 inches aft and drops gradually to about 5 feet 10 inches toward the forward cabin.
The saloon table and settee convert to a double berth and, together with a 6-foot-6-inch settee opposite, make a comfortable eating, lounging, and sleeping area. A double berth is located forward of the wardrobe and head area. Generous use of teak, both solid and ply, contributes to a sense of quality throughout the boat, but the polypropylene carpeting used to line the hull ages unattractively.
Sailing the S2 9.2 is a treat. In 15 to 17 knots, it heels sharply under the mainsail and 150-percent genoa before settling in to make 5 or 6 knots upwind. Weather helm is noticeable in stronger gusts, but the boat is generally well balanced and always manageable, even in lumpy seas. All in all, the S2 9.2 is a well-designed, tough, and able 30-footer with good performance for racing or cruising.
Architect Richard Smith and his wife, Beth, sail their Ericson Cruising 31, Kuma, in the Pacific Northwest.
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IMAGES
COMMENTS
Despite having been designed more than two decades ago, the S2 8.6's styling appears quite contemporary. The boats were well built and finished with care, and they tend to hold their value, so expect to pay from $14,000 to $23,000. Gregg Nestor, a lifelong water rat, is the author of three books about sailboats. Specs.
I have the s2 6.8 and it is hull number 144 one of the last manufactured. I think this is a very high quality boat with a lot of room for a 22 ft. I have a dock on a lockal lake but in January I sail around Key West which requires me to trailer the boat about 1300 miles one way. We also sail on Lake Erie.
It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5
Production of the 8.5 ran from 1981 to 1983. The boat was replaced by the similar S2 8.6, which continued until S2 stopped making sailboats in 1986. Construction. The hull of the S2 8.5 is a solid hand layup. Glasswork is excellent, and is noted by owners as one of the main considerations in buying the boat.
Up until the last year of producing sailboats S2 used the metric size to one decimal place for all of thier designs, but they don't really relate to the real lengths. The 6.7, 6.8, and 6.9 are all 22' long. The 6.8 came first, then the 6.7. the 6.9 as just an updated 6.7, but they already used 6.7 & 6.8.
The boat's styling is conventionally modern. She has a fairly straight sheer, fairly high freeboard, and low, raked cabin trunk with dark tinted flush ports. Production of the 8.5 ran from 1981 to 1983. The boat was replaced by the similar S2 8.6, which continued until S2 stopped making sailboats in 1986. Construction
The S2 8.6 is an American sailboat that was designed by Arthur Edmunds as a cruiser and first built in 1983. ... In a 2011 Cruising World review Gregg Nestor wrote, "the S2 8.6 is a very comfortable and easily managed coastal cruiser and club racer. It's relatively stiff, its helm feels balanced, and it tracks well. ...
4. S2 8.6 Mountain Harbor Lake Ouachita. Jun 12, 2023. #3. jssailem said: On these older boats, manuals were not always provided. Google searching and a bit of sleuthing can generate most answers. Questions here on the Forum will often generate ideas that lead to solutions. In general all brands follow a typical construction pattern.
S2 8.6 is a 27′ 11″ / 8.5 m monohull sailboat designed by Arthur Edmunds and built by S2 Yachts between 1984 and 1985. ... Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay). D: ...
1984 S2 8.6. Save Share. Like. 0 Reply. kd3pc. 1555 ... Good old boat about a year or so ago did an article on a 32 ie July/August 2010. I could probably scan that review. The other boat is a Jeanneau Arcadia. an attalia is simalar, but about 2' longer, and a different designer. Then a sunshine 36/38 is a longer version, same designer as teh ...
The l/b ratio for S2 8.6 is 2.94. Slim Wide 66% 0 50 100. Compared with other similar sailboats it is more spacy than 66% of all other designs. It seems that the designer has chosen a slightly more spacy hull design.
Sailing the S2 9.2 is a treat. In 15 to 17 knots, it heels sharply under the mainsail and 150-percent genoa before settling in to make 5 or 6 knots upwind. Weather helm is noticeable in stronger gusts, but the boat is generally well balanced and always manageable, even in lumpy seas. All in all, the S2 9.2 is a well-designed, tough, and able 30 ...
1 of 2. If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of S2 8.6. Built by S2 Yachts (USA) and designed by Arthur Edmunds, the boat was first built in 1983. It has a hull type of Fin w/spade rudder and LOA is 8.53. Its sail area/displacement ratio 16.19.
The S2 sail boats was built in Holland MI, had a reputation as high quality production boats. Also, very successful as a Club racer in their day. The 8.6, a 28 footer, had one of the largest interiors for a racer/cruiser with standing head room throughout. A comfortable fast cruiser racer. Able to sail almost anywhere you want to go.
1984 28' S2 8.6 sailboat for sale in Traverse City Michigan. This boat is in great shape,deck has been painted, soft spots in the deck repaired by West Bay Boat Works, diesel runs great low hours, boat was surveyed 4 years ago, all teak on deck redone mast painted
S2 8.6 Kestrel is a beautiful performance cruiser that is an absolute joy at any point of sail. She was built with the deluxe package including a finely fitted roomy cabin and cockpit with Edson pedestal helm and extra brightwork. ... Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral ...
S2 Yachts (USA) The company, located in Holland, Michigan, USA, was founded by boating industry legend, Leon Slikkers, after he had sold his powerboat company, Slickcraft. As part of the sales agreement, he was precluded from the powerboat market for a number of years. There were no restrictions on sailboat building.
3,269. S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA. Mar 31, 2013. #3. To be frank, I am 6 feet and after shopping 28 O'days for a while it only took me five minutes aboard to know it was too small. I bought a 9.2A. The recurring costs for a boat two feet longer are negligible. It isn't just headroom as the greater beam makes a big difference too.
Ohio. $14,750. Description: 1984 S-2 8.6. Dock space available and transferable!!! Which would bypass a waiting list. I do have a 3 blade self feathering max prop that fits this boat. Willing to negotiate price of boat with or without the max prop. Nema 2000.
S2 6.8 is a 22′ 4″ / 6.8 m monohull sailboat designed by Arthur Edmunds and built by S2 Yachts between 1976 and 1979. Great choice! Your favorites are temporarily saved for this session. ... The S2 6.8 EXCITER model (shown in the photo) was part of a package that included red and orange accent stripes. A cast iron centerboard was also an ...
S2 8.6 Cleveland Feb 16, 2009 #1 Have a Yanmar 2GM 15 HP @3600 with 2.62:1 trans. Martec folder not working well and want to put on a fixed prop- likely 3 blade. ... I don't like the 3 blade, as the boat is slower both under power and under sail; I intend to reinstall the rebuilt Martec at my first opportunity. Based on the advice of the other ...
Check out this Used 1984 S2 8.6 for sale in Green Bay, WI 54302. View this Sloop and other Sail boats on boattrader.com. Check out this Used 1984 S2 8.6 for sale in Green Bay, WI 54302. View this Sloop and other Sail boats on boattrader.com ... Reviews. 4.9. Based on 374 reviews. Vann, South Carolina.
3. S2 8.6 Barnegat, NJ. Apr 9, 2021. #1. Our 8.6 was damaged against a piling in our slip during TS Isaias last August. The entire stern rail was pushed somewhat toward the port side and the aft starboard corner of the boat was damaged. We need to replace the corner piece of aluminum that covers the rub rail at that location and a portion of ...