planking a model yacht hull

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Beginning to Plank the Hull

May 3, 2016

It is time to start planking the hull of the Model Shipways Bluenose.  I’ve never planked a hull before.  This should be  interesting .

Part of the reason I chose the Bluenose as my first POB build is because the hull planking is relatively straight forward.  The ship doesn’t have some of the complex curves that you’ll find on larger ships.  You don’t have to do as much with  stealers or  spiling .  The hull also gets painted, so even if I mess something up, as long as it ends up sanded smooth it should look fine.

My goal is to use this to get comfortable with planking.  I’ll use my next ship build to learn the more complex planking techniques.

So, where to start?

The practicum I’m following has a very simple approach to planking the Bluenose hull.  I’ve read the chapter many, many times, and I’m confident I can handle this.  The practicum’s approach is basically to ignore cutting strips, and just use full-length strips.  You start at the deck line (which is why the waterways had to go in) and work your way about 1/3 down the side.  Then you move to the keel, and work your way about 1/3 up.  This keeps any errors from accumulating.  I like that.

This approach doesn’t worry about bands, tick marks, etc.

The instructions take you down a more traditional route.  Using the plans, you divide the hull in the bands, and measure the plank thickness for each band.  This involves tick marks, etc.  The instructions also have you cutting the strips to a more correct length.  Instead of using the full strips along the hull, you cut and install pieces that are about 7″ each.

Which way should I go?  I think I’m going to do a combination of the two.

• I’m going to use the simplified ‘process’ from the practicum – work down from the deck about 1/3, then up from the keel about 1/3, then do the middle.
• I’m going to use the width of the wood stock as the width of the planks.  I won’t bother with making planks narrower unless I need something that has to fit in a unique spot.
• I’m going to cut the strips into shorter pieces per the instructions.  I know you won’t see these joints once the hull is painted, but I think installing smaller pieces will be easier.  This also gives me practice with getting a good pattern of joints.

Let’s get started.

I need to place the first plank along the  top edge of the waterway.  This is done because later we’ll install planking above this line, and in the first plank that goes above the deck we’ll need to cut  scuppers .  These are small openings where water can run off the deck.  These need to be flush with the deck.

The fore deck and the quarter deck are at different heights.  This means that if you run a strake from the bow to stern, it won’t line up with both the fore and quarter decks.  The practicum ignores this, and tells you to line the strake up with the  bottom of the waterway on the quarter deck.  It recommends this because the practicum  does not add the scuppers .  It simply omits that detail (intentionally).

I want scuppers.

So I need to do a little more work to get things lined up with the decks.  Referring to the plans, I see that the first band of planks (‘A’) does indeed deal with this.  At bulkhead ‘H’, where the decks meet, there is an extra strake for the quarter deck.  This looks like it should allow the strake from the fore deck to run right under it.

I guess the first step is to clamp some planks on the hull and test this theory.   That worked .  Now I know how we’ll deal with that transition between decks.

The first planks need to be even with the deck.  The fore deck and quarter deck are different heights.  But, look at that, the difference is the height of one plank…

Before I can actually start installing any planking, I need to cut some planks.  To make it easier to get consistent sized planks and straight cuts, I made a quick jig to hold the material while I cut it.

My jig for uniform plank lengths.  Ended up not being used too much, but it did help to ensure straight cuts.

I’m only cutting a few at a time so I don’t end up with a pile of planks that are the wrong size.

With a few planks cut, there’s nothing left to do but glue one one.  I decided to start around bulkhead ‘H’.  I put the plank on that lines up with the quarter panel, and worked  my way aft.  Then I returned to bulkhead ‘H’ and started with the first strake of the fore deck, working my way forward.

Once everything had set, I removed the clamps.  Since this line of planks needs to lie flush with the waterway, I needed to do some cleanup.  There were some spots to be sanded (where the waterway was too high).  There were some gaps between the plank the edge of the waterway (to be filled with wood putty).  I made a few rounds of sanding and filling until I was happy with the fit.  The waterways are visible on the completed model, so I want the joint here to look good.

After the first strake or two got installed, I flipped the ship upside-down.  This makes it easier to work on the planking.

With the planks that need to be even with the deck are done, we start working our way down.

The clamps I used are modified ‘binder clips’ from an office supply store.  I can’t take credit for this…many, many other builders have posted about modifying binder clips this way.  Basically, you sacrifice a few clips by removing their ‘handles’, and use those handles to improve the other clips.

I continued adding planks as I worked my way up the hull.  The goal was to get the area near the transom fully planked – covering the horn timbers.  This took a week or two.

I found that I didn’t use my plank-cutting jig very often, since I needed to measure and cut the plank length individually for each plank.  The curve of the hull created slight differences in the required lengths.

After about 17-18 strakes, I had the ‘top’ part of the hull planked.

Top half of the deck is planked.

It is a bit of mess.  But, I believe it is a controlled mess.  With some sanding and filling, it should turn out fine.

I can trace the problems to a couple things:

• I didn’t do a great job of fairing the bulkheads.  Some of the planks sit lower (deeper) than others.  This is because one ‘end’ of a bulkhead is ‘lower’ than the other end.  Better fairing would have avoided this.
• Some planks are not beveled properly.  This creates gaps between the planks.

I’m very glad I chose the Bluenose as my first POB build.  This hull will be painted, so as long as I can sand this smooth (and liberally apply wood filler), it will be fine.  If I had chosen a ship that had exposed planking, it would be a disaster at this point.

Planking status so far.  You can see the planks twisting around the transom in the stern.

So, I’m done with the upper 1/3 of the hull.  Next I’ve got to install the garboard plank, which runs along the bottom of the keel.  I’ve been hesitating on this for a few days.  If I get this next plank wrong, the planking will be misaligned as I move up the ship.  So, no pressure.

Maybe I’ll get around to that tomorrow.

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Model Boat Hull Construction

The carved block method, part one. model boat hull construction made easy – a step-by-step instruction how to build a wooden boat model hull from a solid block. the method described is common for ship model kits and scratch building..

Building a model boat hull using the carved solid block method can seem intimidating at first. It shouldn’t be though - if being methodical there is no reason a first attempt will not turn out as good as any.

The carved block model boat hull construction is best used for:

• Static ship models - up to 600mm (24 inches) long
• Making a pattern for resin or fiberglass hulls
• Making ship's boats ("life boats")

This method has disadvantages, such as:

• Hulls may crack - The risk is increased with large cross sections and the use of inproperly seasoned lumber.
• Limited use if natural wood finish is desired. This would require planking after the carving process is completed.

You'll need:

• A hull plan in the right scale with deck plan, profile and cross sections. It helps if the stations (where the cross sections are located along the hull) are marked on the other two views.
• A piece of wood as described below.
• Hand Tools: Carving tools, files, sandpaper. Hand plane if you are prepping your own wood block. A hand saw* of some kind to roughly shape the ends of the wood block.
• Drafting tools: Pencil, square and scale.
• Also helpful tools: A bandsaw is a good help, but not essential. *If you have access to one, you won't need the hand saw above.

Step 1: Select Model Boat Hull Material

Most model ship hulls built with this methods are made from either mahogany or basswood (linden in Europe), but there are many other suitable wood species, such as poplar and alder. For beginners, I’d recommend basswood or poplar because they are easy to carve and inexpensive.

For experienced woodworkers there is no reason cherry or walnut could not be used. If you have a favorite wood or a perfect scrap piece, you may as well use it.

The type of wood can always be negotiated as long as it is stable . I find it more important to select properly seasoned lumber, free of knots and pitch pockets.

Lumber I wouldn't use include oak, American beech, birch, hard maple, and exotic species like rosewood, teak, purpleheart and bloodwood. These species are hard to work with hand tools and dull edges quickly when carving.

This method is best used for models under two feet in length and under 6-8 inches wide. This off course is a loose rule that will vary with ship type etc. If you want to go bigger, consider the bread-and-butter method (also known as the laminated method) for saving in material and weight.

Step 2: Preparing the Wooden Block

Make sure the block is squared up, i.e. the long sides are square and parallel to each other and that the block is a quarter to half an inch longer than the finished hull (6-12mm).

With a pencil, mark a centerline down the middle of the block. An alternative way to achieve this is by gluing up two boards where the joint will become the center line. This works great as long as the boards are straight, without twist and properly surfaced before gluing.

Step 3: Mark the Stations, Profile and Deck outline

With a square to guide you, measure out and mark the stations. Photocopy or trace out the profile and deck outline onto separate pieces of paper. Cut them out with scissors to form templates.

Line up the deck template symmetrically on the centerline and align with the stations. Trace the deck outline with a pencil onto the block. Follow the same method for the profile template.

Step 4: Cut out Profile and Deck outline

A band saw will make your life a lot easier in this step, but are not essential. Begin by cutting out the profile. Then cut the deck outline.

Then cut the deck outline. Notice how the stations you so carefully marked got cut away. Use the square and pencil them in again.

Step 5: Make Station Templates

These are best made by photocopying or printing out the body sections onto card stock and then carefully cutting out with an X-acto knife.

Be sure to mark the water line and deck line. By making the template upper edge level with the deck line, you'll kill two birds with one stone. It’s also a good idea to put the station number on each so you can identify them easier.

Continue the Article Series Below

Part Two - shaping the hull and deck

Part Three - fitting keel, stem, sternpost and rudder

Part Four - planking the deck and fitting gunwales

Return from Carved Model Boat Hull to Hull Design

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Refastening a Wooden Hull   - Season 4, Episode 1 Now Available!

Planking: An Introduction to Methods & Techniques

The most important skills in boatbuilding. It distinguishes the carpenter from the boatbuilder. It’s one thing to glue two boards together for a table top or to nail siding on a house; it’s quite another to keep water out of a seam. This is not to say that boatbuilding involves superior skill; it’s just that a different set of skills is needed, along with the intention of keeping water out.

I work as a boatbuilding instructor at the Carpenter’s Boat Shop in Pemaquid, Maine, and have the pleasure of teaching apprentices some of the vernacular and many of the techniques that go into wooden boat building. Among them, none is more gratifying than the planking process.

In this article, we’ll explore commonly used planking types and examine the strengths and drawbacks of each one. You’ll also learn the rudiments involved in “getting out” (creating and installing) a boat’s planking. It is my hope that this article will help you grow in knowledge and confidence so that you too can try your hand at planking.

Integral to both carvel and lapstrake planking styles, lining off is dividing the hull surface into appropriately sized planks and locations, and then making sure that they look even and fair. By fair, I mean gradual curves that are “eyesweet”: no sharp bends, knuckles, or hitches. Looks matter, and lining off helps to ensure fair plank lines that are proportional to one another and blend well with the overall hull shape. More important, it gives the crew information on how wide to make the planks and what shape they will be.

Many sets of plans for small and simple boats already include lining-off marks, so these need only to be carried from plan patterns to molds and then checked for fairness with a batten. However, if you hope to take on a more advanced project down the road, lining off planking is a skill that you’ll need to add to your repertoire. You can read more on this in WoodenBoat No. 101.

Carvel planking is a common method found on a great variety of traditional wooden boats, from large schooners to classic racing yachts and tiny dinghies. A carvel hull is less fussy to line off than lapstrake because if plank lines aren’t perfect, paint will cover the discrepancies. While it does present challenges to those with limited experience, we’ve found that our apprentices, most of whom have only a few months of boatbuilding experience under their belts, do a fine job of building carvel-planked Catspaw dinghies. Don’t allow a lack of experience to hold you back. In his book The Boatbuilder’s Apprentice, boatbuilder Greg Rössel draws upon the example of a wooden barrel. Barrel staves, analogous to our planks, are laid tightly alongside one another, and taper at the ends. A wooden boat hull is similar, but with a few extra curves thrown in.

Once the hull setup is lined off (or marks from the plan patterns are transferred and faired), planking can begin. Each plank is individually shaped, or “spiled,” then meticulously fitted for tightness on both edges. We will discuss the process of spiling in greater detail later on. When the planks are tight along their edges, a slight bevel is planed along one outer edge to accept cotton fibers that, when driven to a proper depth, will provide watertight integrity. The hull is then faired (planed and sanded eye-sweet), caulked, and painted.

Carvel planking has a great many benefits that justify its popularity. It is effective at keeping water out, is adaptable to a variety of hull shapes, and it is easily repairable when compared to many other planking types. Because carvel planks can be butted end-to-end, shorter lengths can be used.

Lapstrake, or clinker, planking is what many of us have in mind when we think of a small, classic wooden boat. Each plank is beveled where it overlaps the adjacent plank, somewhat like clapboards on a house, adding longitudinal strength and assisting the ribs in holding the hull shape and reducing flex. What’s more, those planks are then fastened to one another as well as to the frames. This interconnectedness allows fewer frames and thinner planking than in a carvel planked boat of comparable size.

Lapstrake planking is especially appropriate for smaller boats where reduced weight is important. This planking method has some peculiarities to contend with that you won’t find in other planking types, one being the “gains” that have to be fashioned along the ends of each plank as it approaches the bow and sometimes the stern, overlapping the plank below. Without these gains, you’d have a sawtooth appearance where the planks join the stem. We’ll discuss how to cut gains later on.

Once clear of the gains, which run 6″ or so aft of the stem, lapstrake plank edges protrude, so no amount of paint will cover a poor job of lining off. Although the plans often have the lining-off already marked on the station mold patterns, you’ll still need to look at the boat and learn to trust your eye in assuring that the plank lines are fair and in good proportion. Lapstrake repair is also a bit more involved than that of its carvel counterpart.

Honestly, though, all planks are a little tricky to repair. Lapstrake-planked boats are a favorite of first-time builders, and for good reason, I think. First, the building jig can be very simple—some lapstrake boats are even built over a single mold. Second, fitting the planks needn’t be as precise as it is for carvel. In fact, in some cases, a plank lap width can be off by almost a quarter of an inch and still be acceptable. Third, there is no need to fair the hull after planking.

Once the planks are fitted, give them a thorough sanding before fastening them in place, and that’s the last time you’ll have to touch them until it’s time for paint. Finally, when lapstrake boats dry out, their seams don’t stand wide open as they do with carvel. This means they require significantly less time to “make up” (swell up in water), if any. This is good news for us trailer-sailors.

Stitch-And-Glue

Stitch-and-glue has gained in popularity lately, as it is such a straightforward process. Kits are widely available, but if you aren’t interested in a kit it is easy enough to buy the necessary plywood, epoxy, and copper wire, and proceed on your own. Predominantly, stitch-and-glue is used to build small boats like kayaks and lightweight rowboats. It consists of cut-to-shape side and bottom panels that are drilled and then wired at intervals in a sort of stitched style. Epoxy is then used to fillet the joints. The wires can be taken out after the glue is cured. Stitch-and-glue is fast and almost as easy as putting a sandwich together. It’s great for a weekend project when you want to get out on the water fast.

Strip Planking

Strip-planking has become a sweetheart of the do-it-yourself boatbuilding crowd, its chief advantage being that all of the “planks” can be the same dimension (usually about 1″ 1″). Planks are nailed to one another edge-to-edge and the strips are alternately fastened to ribs as building progresses. This makes for a strong hull, but can be difficult to repair.

Strip Building

Strip-building, a variant of strip-planking, is also an excellent choice for the first-time builder, often used to build kayaks, canoes, and other small boats. One by one, strips are glued next to one another on the building jig and then temporarily stapled to the molds. Often, these strips have bead and cove edges for a better fit and a stronger seam. As strip after strip is laid down, the hull grows. Then, the whole thing gets a coat of fiberglass and epoxy, inside and out. While this procedure renders a beautiful, strong, and long lasting boat, some of the disadvantages are that the ’glassing is messy work, and if a repair is needed later on, it can become a major undertaking as there is no single “plank” to replace.

Batten Seam

Cold-Molding

Cold-molding is a process of creating a hull by layering. Epoxied (glued) veneers are generally laid up over a strip-planked, jig supported first layer to create a boat hull. This sandwiching of layers is somewhat related to making plywood but, of course, renders a far more complex shape. It is common to use straight-grained Douglas-fir, red cedar, or mahogany for the veneers—or a combination of these woods, chosen for their tensile strength and resistance to rot. Veneers are generally about 1⁄8″ thick and from 4″ to 10″ wide. For efficiency and best contact between layers, this process requires vacuum-bagging, where a piece of plastic becomes a giant clamp that conforms to the hull’s contours. A large piece of plastic is laid over the wet veneers that have been fitted and stapled into place.

Next, the plastic is sealed along the perimeter of the area to be squeezed. Finally, a vacuum pump removes the air underneath the plastic and atmospheric pressure forces it down tight on the veneers. The pump is left running (there’s always a little leakage) until the epoxy kicks (sets up). While experienced people can “bag” several layers at once, generally it’s done one layer at a time, on each side of the hull, alternating sides, with each layer running diagonally to the previous one.

The process, though lengthy, can employ workers with less skill than some other types of wooden boat construction. To be sure, this is a messy and complex way to create a hull—but the results are worth it. Cold-molded hulls are very strong and easy to maintain.

Getting Out a Plank

Now that we have touched upon the most common types of planking, it’s time to address how to make the planks themselves. Some methods, like carvel and lapstrake, require a builder to learn how to spile a plank. Spiling is translating those three-dimensional curves and tucks of the hull to something that we can cut out of flat plank stock. You will soon discover that all of those sweet lines marked on a nicely lined-off building jig no longer look the same when picked off and placed on the stock on your bench.

When we see planks on the hull, what we perceive as lines running parallel with the sheer are actually shallow Ws, Ss, and other shapes that look like crescent moons or bananas when laid out in two dimensions (see illustrations above). This isn’t true of all hulls, though; depending on the size and type of the boat, you may find that a few of the planks are straight. Spiling entails nailing a batten onto the hull where you want the plank to go and recording on it the information about its shape. For spiling battens, I usually staple a few strips of lauan plywood together, attached with a scab or butt strap. Once the batten is placed, the marking can begin.

Some use a compass, some a joggle stick, while others prefer a length of a carpenter’s folding rule. Whatever means you choose, it is important to be consistent and meticulous. Any slop or movement will result in an inaccurate spiling. To use a compass as shown in our example on the facing page, start with a setting that has the appropriate reach for the entire length of the plank. Once that is established, set the compass and make a “sacred” circle somewhere—on the boat, the bench, or another board—but not on the batten, as this may be confused with spiling marks in that location. If you ruin your setting, you can quickly restore it using the sacred circle.

With one leg of the compass on the reference point, use the other, the pencil end, to draw an arc (a quarter circle or so) on the spiling batten. Continue to make these marks until you have picked up points along the top and bottom edges of the plank space. Next, remove the spiling batten and secure it to your planking stock which is lying flat on the bench. Then, with the compass setting still intact (check it on your sacred circle), transfer the points you picked up from the boat to the planking stock.

Picking Up Points

Note the “smiles” and “frowns” that the arcs make on the batten. The smiles indicate the endpoint, frame areas, and a few extra defining points along the boat’s bottom. The frowns indicate the only three available spots to pick up points from the lined off setup in this area (dotted lines indicate where battens have defined plank lines in the lining off process). The three points are the endmost point on the transom, the aftmost point on the aftmost frame, and the aftmost point on the aftmost mid-frame. Once forward, pick up the forward-most point on each frame and inner stem. These points define the shape of the plank.

Transferring Points to the Planking Stock

Used in lapstrake planking, gains are the areas at the bow, and often the stern, where the plank thickness at the overlap is reduced so that each plank gradually fairs into its adjacent partner by the time it reaches the stem (and the transom, if a smooth outline is desired). This is accomplished by planing a wedge- shaped rabbet at the end(s) of the plank. It sounds more complicated than it is; once you’ve done one, you can do a thousand. I hope this introduction to planking types and techniques will help you to make a more informed choice as you consider building your next boat.

We have only begun to scratch the surface here. The best way to learn more is to get out there and try it. Once you wrap your mind around the planking process, you’ll never look at woodworking the same way. For me, understanding the planking process opened up the world of boatbuilding. I hope it does the same for you.

Darin Carlucci and his wife, Serafina, live in Pemaquid, Maine.

Related Articles

Varnishing basics, a smooth and level painted finish, building an amesbury skiff – part 2. planking and finishing, a blacksmithing primer, related videos, making a bird’s mouth hollow spar , related book chapters, the backbone: tail feather and transom, molds and sheer, the planking process: from the garboard up, building the house, the ballast keel, subscribe for full access.

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How to plank the hull of a bluff bow model ship.

• Updated on: 24th January 2021
• Written by Gary Renshaw

Learn How To Plank The Hull of a Bluff Bowed Wooden Model Ship with this Comprehensive 40-Step Build Guide From Modelers Central.

The hull is the single largest part of a model ship. Building the hull correctly will determine the final shape and appearance of the model. In your kit, you will find a number of plywood sheets with laser-cut parts. Use the kit’s plans and instructions to identify and number each part on the plywood sheets with a pencil. Do this before removing any parts from the plywood sheet.

1. Constructing the Hull

To construct the hull follow these steps.

In the kit there will be a 4mm thick plywood sheet as shown Photo 1 below. On this sheet there will be a number of parts for the model. The  keel, bulkheads and transom  are the parts needed to construct the hull. When fitted and glued together these parts form the skeleton of the hull. The keel, bulkheads (BH) and transom are identified in Photo 1.

 The  keel  is the ship’s main structural piece. It runs longitudinally down the centre of the model from the stem (or bow) – front—to the stern—the rear—of the model. The keel is the centre piece of the model and everything is built from it.

 The  bulkheads  are fixed at right angles to the keel and provide strength to the hull. Throughout this course we will refer to the bulkheads as bulkhead frames.

 The  transom  is fixed at right angles to the keel and sits at the stern. The transom is not a bulkhead but does form part of the hull construction.

Remove the keel, bulkhead frames and transom from the 4mm plywood sheet. Use a snap blade knife to carefully cut through the tabs holding the parts to the main sheet.

Dry fit the bulkhead frames into the keel slots. Do not glue anything at this stage. Do not force the bulkhead frame into the keel slot. You may need to use a flat needle file to fractionally open the slot in both the keel and bulkhead frame. The fit should be firm but no loose.

There may be a need to adjust the slot depth in the keel and/or bulkhead frames to ensure the top edge of each bulkhead frame is flush with the top edge of the keel. Do not glue anything at this stage.

For larger models it is wise to make a working base as shown Figure 1. This will help to ensure the keel does not become distorted. Cut the slots in the keel supports to correspond with the bulkhead frames.

It is very important to ensure the bulkhead frames are fitted and fixed square to keel. Use “bull dog” clips placed on the keel and up against the bulkhead frame to hold the bulkhead square while the glue sets.

The next step is to  fit any bow blocks and stern blocks  if the model has them. 

 The  stern blocks are fitted and glued in place on either side of the keel at the stern between the last bulkhead frame and the transom. These blocks are used to provide a larger surface area on which to fix the planks at the stern and give added strength to the stern area. Fit them at this point if your model has stern blocks.

 The  bow blocks are fitted and glued in place on either side of the keel at the bow and in front of the first bulkhead frame. These blocks will provide a larger surface area on which to fix the planks at the bow. 

For a bluff bowed hull the planks will have to be shaped and bent in some cases at right angles. The large bow blocks are particularly important as they provide a greater surface area on which you can glue the planks thus allowing for greater strength.

In a kit that has a bluff bow, the manufacturer will provide blocks of wood that will need to be shaped to fit between the first bulkhead frame on both sides of the keel at the bow—Photo 5. Sometimes a series of 4mm plywood pieces are provided that will be used to build up the equivalent of a bow block once glued in place together.

Irrespective of which method is used to create the bow blocks you will need to shape the blocks.

Follow the next steps to achieve the correct shape of the bow blocks.

To shape the bow blocks first trace the outline of the first bulkhead frame on to one bow block

Next place the false deck on the top of the bulkhead frames and align it with the front of the keel. Place the bow block in place and trace on to the block the curvature of the false deck at the bow—

You will now have two curves on the bow block. You will need to shape the block to these two lines.

To shape the bow blocks you can use a range of hand or power tools. A band saw can be used to remove most of the unwanted timber. A rasp can also be used for this purpose.

Once most of the unwanted timber has been removed use files and sandpaper to achieve the final finish.

As you progress continually check the shape of the block against the keel and first bulkhead frame for accuracy.

Once you are satisfied with the shape achieved use a two part epoxy glue to fix the bow blocks in place—Photo 9.

The next step is to fit and fix the  false deck  to the hull skeleton. The false deck is part of the 2mm plywood sheet. Fitting the false deck at this stage will provide added strength to the whole hull structure.

On some models the false deck is fitted later.

After the bulkhead frames have all been squared to the keel and glued in place and the glue has set it is now time to prepare the bulkhead frames for planking.

Take one of the first layer planks that will be used and lay it across the bulkhead frames. You will see that at the bow the plank does not touch the full face of the bulkhead frame—see Photo 10. The same is the case at the stern—see Photo 11. Across the mid-ship bulkhead frames the plank will lay flat on the bulkhead frames.

The next step to consider is the keel at the stern. Pay particular attention to this area. The total thickness of this area must be such that when planked with all layers of planking it is the same thickness at the stern post and rudder. Deadwood Area The area between the bottom edge of the keel and the bottom of the bulkhead frames at the stern is known as the deadwood area—See Photo 12.

 Depending upon the type of ship that is being modelled the deadwood area may be small or large.

The deadwood area will be planked with two layers of planking consistent with the rest of the hull. 

The stern post and rudder however will only be planked with the second layer of planking. So when the stern post and rudder are eventually fitted there is the need to ensure there is a consistent thickness between stern post, rudder and the stern area of the keel.

For example the keel, stern post & rudder will all be taken from the 4mm plywood sheet. 

The stern post and rudder will be planked with the second layer of planking —say 0.6mm walnut. However the keel will be planked with the first layer of planking—say 2mm thick (on each side) and then planked with the second layer of planking. Clearly when the stern post and rudder are fitted there will be a significant discrepancy between the thickness of the stern area of the keel and the stern post and rudder. To ensure there is consistency of thickness between the stern post, rudder and the hull in this area there is the need to ensure that when the first layer of planking is fixed in place the total thickness does not exceed the thickness of the stern post/rudder post.

To achieve this you will need to take two steps. 

Step 1.  Before fitting the first layer of planking reduce the thickness of the keel in the area by approximately 1mm on each side—reduce the keel thickness by about half.

Step 2.  Once the first layer of planking has been fitted then reduce the thickness of this planking by approximately 1mm on each side as well—fractionally adjusting to meet required thickness.

This will then reduce the total thickness of the keel and first layer of planking in the area to be 4mm thick and thus meeting the requirement for consistency of thickness so that when the second layer of planking is fitted there will be consistency of thickness between the keel and the stern post and rudder.

2. Planking the Hull

We will now be completing the  first layer of planking of a bluff bowed hull.  The approach will be applicable to all bluff bowed wooden model ships with a plank on bulkhead frame construction. 

There are many approaches to planking the hull of a wooden model ship. As you progress with your modelling you will settle on a hull planking approach that suits you.

Planking the hull is not technically difficult but it does require some thought and study so that the principles are understood. It also requires some patience. Once mastered the process is straight forward.

There are a few points to remember:

• Use a mini plane to taper the planks.
• Always  taper the lower edge of the plank —ie the edge that will be closer to the keel.
• Prepare two planks together—one for each side of the hull. It is most important to fit and glue the planks in pairs—one on each side of the hull as this will minimise the chance of the keel being distorted or bent.

Planking First Principles

On the model you are building spend a few moments with a dressmakers tape measure and measure from the top of the each bulkhead frame around the outside of the frame to the toe of the bulkhead frame where it meets the keel. You will notice that the measurements around the bulkhead frames in the middle or “mid-ship” of the model are greater than the measurement around the bulkhead frames at the bow (front) of the model.

We always assume that the “mid-ship” bulkhead frames are the largest distance and it is at this part of the model the planks will be at their full width. From your measurements it will be clear that if you are to fit one plank along the full length of the hull you will need to taper the planks that fit across the bulkhead frames at the bow of the model. We will now consider this further with a few examples.

Mid-Ship Bulkhead Frames

It is assumed that the planks laid across the mid-ship bulkhead frames are at their maximum width. We need to determine how many planks will fit into the area between the top of these bulkhead frames and the keel.

As an example let’s say the measurement from the top of the mid-ship bulkhead frames 4 & 5 to the keel is 120mm.

 Question: If the width of the planks we are using is 5mm then how many planks will fit across the midship bulkhead frames to cover it completely?

 Answer: If the measurement is 120mm and the width of the planks to be used is 5mm then divide 120mm by 5mm that is 120/5 = 24 planks will be needed to fit into the area. These planks laid across the mid-ship frames will not be tapered or reduced in width across these bulkhead frames.

Fore Bulkhead Frames

Now let’s say the measurement from the top of the bulkhead frame 2 to the keel is 80mm. As 24 planks will have to fit into this area then the plank width at bulkhead frame 2 will need to be reduced. The question is what will the width of each plank have to be to fit 24 planks into this area?

  Question: What is the plank width needed at bulkhead frame 2 if 24 planks have to fit into the area?

 Answer: If the measurement is 80mm—then divide 80mm by 24 planks that is 80/24 = 3.33mm. So the plank wide at bulkhead frame 2 needs to be 3.33mm to ensure that 24 planks will fit into this area.

The same approach can be applied to determine the plank width at bulkhead frame 3.

Stern Bulkhead Frames

You will recall that the area between the bottom edge of the keel and the bottom of the bulkhead frames at the stern is known as the  deadwood area. 

 When making your measurements of these stern bulkhead frames include the “deadwood” in your measurement.

Across these bulkhead frames you will find the measurement from the top of the bulkhead frame to the bottom of the keel will be greater than it is at the “mid-ships” bulkhead frames. Where this occurs you will be inserting short triangular planks known as “Stealers” or “Wedges” to cover the extra distance. The use of stealers or wedges will be dealt with later.

3. Fitting the First Plank

The placement of the very first plank (plank 1) is most important. Determine from the plans and/or the written kit instructions the position of the first plank(s). In “real” shipbuilding it was usual to start planking at the keel and work upwards. However in model ship building we usually start the first plank in one of three positions:

1.  With a ship which has a “flush” or straight upper deck, such as “Bounty” or “Port Jackson” then  the first plank is laid with its upper edge level with the deck surface. In some cases the first plank  will have its top edge 5mm to 10mm below the deck level. This is done to facilitate the con struction of bulwarks at a later stage but in any case it will be  parallel to the line of the deck.

 2. In the case of those models in which the “upper” or “weather” deck is in either two or three distinct sections, at differing levels, then the first plank is commonly run along the line of the “middle” or “main” deck then follows its natural course both “fore” and “aft”. 

3. Many models that feature below deck open gunports, will require the first plank to follow the line  of the gunports and it will run immediately above or below a row of gunports.

 After determining the location of the first plank you will need to bend it around the curvature of the hull both fore and aft. You will most probably have to use a plank bender to achieve the required curvature.

Take one of the planks to be used and place it in position. Gently spring the plank around the bow. At the point where the plank starts to bend—mark this as point A—Photo 15.

We are going to be very systematic in our preparation for planking. 

Take a second plank and transfer this point on to it. On each plank mark an arrow pointing towards the bow. Also mark each plank “P” for port (left) and “S” for starboard (right). We will do this for all the planks we prepare. We will also make all planks in pairs.

 The first plank will NOT be tapered.

From Point A use a hand held plank bender to gently crimp the plank toward the bow—Photo 16. Trial fit the plank. If needed use the plank bender again by gently crimping between the previous crimps. This will increase the curvature of the plank. Repeat this process until you are satisfied with the curvature of the plank.

Now that you have shaped the first plank it is now time to fit and fix it in position.  Note again that the first plank will not be tapered.

 Use PVA glue to fix the first plank in position. Make sure that both planks (left and right or “port” and “starboard”) follow the same line and are a mirror image of each other. In large bluff bowed models the first two, three or four planks fitted are not tapered.

For the Norfolk, the first plank is glued in and placed 3.5mm below the top of each bulkhead frame. This is done to allow a bulwark to be fitted later.

It is important to check that the first planks are symmetrical—check that they are a mirror image of each other at the bow and the stern.

We will now turn to calculate the plank width at each bulkhead frame so that we can complete the first layer of planking.

4. Completing the First layer of Planking

For the model you are building establish a table as shown below representing the number of bulkhead frames—include the transom.

To determine the plank width at each bulkhead frame use a dressmakers tape measure to measure the distance between Plank 1 and the keel at each bulkhead frame. Record these measurements in your table— see Table 1 below which is for the Norfolk.

For the Norfolk the distance between Plank 1 & the keel at the mid-ship bulkhead frames is 88mm. The plank width is 5mm. Therefore there will need to be 88/5 = 17.6 planks to be fitted to cover the hull. We will approximate this figure to 17 planks as there will always be a small amount to creep in plank width as you progress down the hull.

For the model you are building apply the above approach to determine the number of planks required. Then, using the measurements you have made and recorded in the table, divide each by the number of planks to determine the plank width at each bulkhead frame. Record in your Table.

From the measurements for the Norfolk you will find that approximately 1mm will need to be tapered off the bow and stern end of the planks. This is typical for a bluff bowed hull.

Again for the Norfolk you will find the planks will need to be tapered from Point A (where the plank starts to bend around the bow) previously identified—Photos 18 & 19

At the stern the planks will need to be tapered from approximately half way between bulkhead frames 8 & 9—Photo 20. Clearly mark each of these points on your planks—always prepare two planks together.

Don’t forget to mark your planks as previously described.

Taper the two planks together. To taper the planks place them in a vice with the amount to be taken off sitting proud of the vice jaws and position the marked point sitting flush with the jaws—Photo 21. Use a mini plane and/or file to remove the unwanted timber.

Use this approach for all the planks to be prepared.

Fit each plank under the previously placed plank. Glue and pin in position.

 The next point is most important: As you progress with you planking down the hull you will arrive at a point where the plank does not want to lay flat. Forcing the plank into position will cause it to twist and a gap will appear between the plank and the bow block.

 At this point you will have to change the direction of the plank to ensure it sits flat on the hull. Follow the steps below to achieve this change in plank direction.

1. Lay the plank along the length of the hull against the previously placed plank. At the bow you will see the plank wants to take a different direction—allow the plank to follow its natural course and lay over the previously placed plank—Photo 22. Temporarily pin the new plank in position and use a pencil to mark the line of plank overlap. 2. Use a sharp blade to fractionally remove the marked area of the previously placed plank—Photo 10 3. Fit and glue in position the new plank along its new direction—Photo 24.

 This process is called Directional Change.

The next step is fit & fix the garboard plank. This plank is the plank that is fitted adjacent to the keel— Photo 25.

Place a plank along the keel and notice at the bow you will have to trim the edge of the plank that fits against the keel to a sharp point—Photo 25. Do not glue the garboard plank in place yet.

Next use your tape measure and take some measurements between the garboard plank and the last plank fitted from the mid-ship bulkhead frames to the bow. We want to create the same distance across these frames. For the Norfolk this measurement is approximately 40mm—Photo 26.

Don’t worry about the distance across the frames at the stern area. As this area will include the deadwood you will need to fit stealers or wedges in later—Photo 27

You will more than likely find the distance at bulkhead frame 1 is slightly less than 40mm. You will need to trim the garboard plank at bulkhead frame 1 to make the distance of the gap along the frames the same—Photo 28

As you progress further down the hull you will find you will need to make further directional changes. The greater the bluff shape of the bow the more directional changes that are required.

Repeat the process described above to achieve each directional change. Do not change the taper on each plank.

Take your time and a well finished hull will be the outcome.

Next we will consider a model that has bulkhead horns to create the bulwark.

5. Models with Bulkhead Frame Horns

Some models have bulkhead frames that rise above the deck level. These are called the bulkhead horns. If your model has bulkhead frame horns you will first need to fit the false deck before starting your planking. Fitting the false deck will add strength to the whole hull.

You will start to plank the hull at or near the deck level. However, once you have finished planking the hull below the deck you will need to plank above the deck line over the horns. You will need to remove the horns later to plank the deck fully so it is important to ensure that as you plank over the horns the planks are not glued to the horns. To ensure this you will need to place sticky tape over the horns. Also, as you plank up the horns make sure you apply glue to the side edge of the planks.

When the whole hull is fully planked you will use a razor saw pushed flush with the false deck to remove the horns. You can then prepare the false deck for planking—this aspect of model ship building is covered in the chapter on Deck Planking.

Photos 30 & 31 show a model that has bulkhead horns.

The next steps are to fit the deck (if not already fitted) and the bulwarks.

6. False Deck Fitting

The false deck is the next step if its not already been done. Identify the false deck from the 2mm laser cut plywood. Place it over the bulkhead frames.

Bluff bowed hulls can have some sheer on them—sheer is where the deck surface curves from aft to stern dipping in the central part of the ship. Some ships also had reverse sheer—this is where at the bow the curvature of the deck, after dipping in the middle then curves slightly in the opposite direction. You can see the Norfolk had some reverse sheer at the bow.

If the model you are building has some reverse sheer along the deck it would be wise to use a two part epoxy glue to glue the deck in place. The strains in a deck with reverse sheer could be too much for PVA glue to hold it in place across the bow blocks.

Once the deck is fixed in place use a file to shape the deck edge to align with the bulkhead frames if needed.

7. Bulwarks

The next step is to fit and fix the bulwarks in place. Identify these parts from the 2mm plywood sheet. Use a hand held plank bender to initially shape the bulkwarks around the bow. Then place both bulwarks in a container of boiling water for approximately 10 minutes. Take them out of the container and clamp them around a curved shape and allow to dry over night.

Once the bulwarks are completely dry fit and fix them in place then sand to form into the hull shape.

8. Second Layer of Planking

In this topic, we will focus on completing the second layer of planking. The process of completing the second layer of planking is essentially the same as for the first layer of planking but with the added advantage of having a solid foundation on which to work.

The second layer of planking is a decorative timber such as walnut, tanganika, teak or mahogany. The thickness will vary according to the size of model you are building. Usually though the second layer of planking is either 0.5mm, 0.6mm or 1mm thick. The width will usually be 5mm or 6mm.

 First Planks The first few planks of the second layer to be fitted are over the bulwark and some way down the hull. These planks will not be tapered. For the Norfolk the first six planks can be fitted and glued in position without any tapering. As the planks are a veneer use a contact glue.

As you progress with your planking down the hull continually check the measurements between the bottom of the last plank fitted and the keel at a few points along the hull. These points would be the midship area, the bow area and the stern area. 

As you start to see some reduction in the measurement at the bow area you will need to start tapering the planks at their bow end from this run of planks.

Use the same process as previously described for the first layer of planking. The only exception will be that as the planks are very thin veneer you will need to bunch 3 or 4 together to taper them.

Apply the contact glue to both surfaces with a brush and allow the surfaces to dry completely. Take care when placing the plank in position as once contact has been made the plank cannot be moved. If a plank is wrongly positioned it will have to be cut and scraped off.

Continue this process until you reach a point where the plank will not lay flat along the line of planks particularly at the bow area—across the bow area the plank will distort and buckle.

This is where you will need to change the direction of the plank. Use the same principle to change the plank direction as previously presented—Photos 2 & 3.

Continue to work down the hull and applying the directional change when required. Continually check the distance between the plank just placed and the keel.

At the stern area you will allow the planks to run along their natural direction. You will need to place stealers or wedges where there are gaps left—Photo 4

Once you have completed the second layer of planking give the whole hull a light sanding and finish with 2 or 3 coats of a clear satin varnish—this will protect the hull from scratches and marks while building the rest of the model—Photo 5.

9.  Hull Planking—Bluff Bow DVD

View the Hull Planking—Bluff Bow DVD  for further tips and techniques.

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HOLLOW HULL CONSTRUCTION METHOD Hollow-hull construction is difficult and time-consuming and therefore avoided by many model ship builders. This construction method requires the artists to use heat to bend narrow planks and nail/glue them one by one onto a frame to form the accurate, unique curves of the ship's hull. We hope that the following photos will illustrate the technique well enough for your comprehension. The Model Shipwright How to build first-class ship models from kits or from scratch using actual ship plans, building a bread-and-butter solid hull ship model, waste less wood than cutting a solid block, using the bread-and_butter technique for solid hull model ship construction, ship plans provide everything you need to scratch-build a red sea dhow. The most basic form of scratch-built ship modeling is the solid hull technique that we demonstrated on our page Creating a Solid Hull Ship Model . While the method demonstrated there – using a solid block of wood to create the hull for a 19th Century William Doughty-designed revenue cutter – works well for smaller models, a solid block of wood large enough to build a bigger model will be either hard to find, or prohibitively expensive. In this article we will discuss the popular method of scratch-building a solid hull for larger ship models, called the bread-and-butter technique, that reduces the thickness (and expense) of wood needed as compared to the solid block method. This method uses the waterlines from the ship plan to cut out several planks that will be layered like slices of bread to create the solid hull, and glued together (the butter). A major advantage of this method – in addition to less cost for wood than a solid block – is that since each plank is cut to the breadth of the hull at a certain level, there is less filing and sanding to reach the final shape than a single block of wood, which must be cut to the widest breadth of the hull. For this article, we are creating the hull for a model of a Sambouk – a type of “dhow,” the generic name for ships used well into the 20th Century by Arab traders and fishermen in the Red Sea, the Persian Gulf, and the eastern coast of Africa. This particular ship’s plan is illustrated on plate 57 from French admiral François-Edmond Pâris’s work “Souvenirs de marine. Collection de plans ou dessins de navires et de bateaux anciens ou modernes existants ou disparus avec les éléments numériques nécessaores à leur construction.” Our reprint Pâris’s work “ Selected Plates from Souvenirs de Marine ” can be ordered on Amazon here . For this project, we created three pages of plans and patterns from the original plan. We created cutting plans for the waterlines by duplicating the half-breadth plan and flipping it over to create a pattern showing the full breadth of each waterline. We also duplicated the section plan enough times to create each template needed in final shaping of the hull. Please use our Contact Page to let us know of your interest in purchasing these. As a refresher to our article How to Read a Ship Plan , Figure 1 shows how the shapes of the waterlines are illustrated in the half-breadth plan, while the distance between them is shown on the section or body plan. In bread-and-butter hull construction, a different plank is cut to the shape of each waterline on the half-breadth plan, and the distance between them as measured on the section plan determines how thick the plank must be to space them correctly. As you can see from the section plan, the planks would have to be planed to different thicknesses to match up with the waterlines. Rather than doing this, we will be using standard 1”x8” (actual size about 3/4”x7 1/2”) lumber, and, as shown in figure 1a, sawing the second from the bottom plank slightly large since it will extend just a bit above the second waterline. The top four planks will all be cut to the line that marks the sheer line since the lowest of these planks extends above the level waterline, the shape of which it would normally be sawn. Now, when it comes to choosing lumber, there are many grades available, with significant differences in the quality and grain, as shown in Figure 2,which shows a “select” pine board on the left and a standard construction “whitewood” #2 board on the right. If you opt to use the standard boards, care must be taken to ensure the knots don’t fall where you will be trying to shape the wood later, as they are much harder than the rest of the wood, and it will be nearly impossible to get a smooth, fair curve if you are trying to sand or file across one. Either fit the patterns so the knots can be cut away with the waste, or so that they are far enough inside the pattern that you won’t hit them when shaping the hull later. Also try to find boards where the grain is as straight as possible, preferably symmetrical from edge to edge. We will be using select boards for the bottom three planks where the greatest shaping must be done, and cheaper #2 boards for the top three, where no complex hull curves need be shaped, and much of the planks will be cut away to get down to the deck level anyway. Mark the center of each board as shown in Figure 3 before cutting them to length. This line will be used later to align the patterns for the waterlines when gluing them to the planks. As shown in Figure 4, measure on the plan how long each plank must be, and cut the board accordingly. Mark the cut boards so you can keep the wood grain lined up the way it was in the original long board – in other words, the bow end of each pattern is pointed toward the same end of the original long board. Having the grain aligned in the same direction will make shaping much easier later. Cut the pattern for each plank slightly outside the line to which it will later be sawed, as shown in Figure 5. Flip the pattern over on some old newspaper, and apply a spray adhesive, as shown in Figure 6. As shown in Figure 7, line up the center-line on the pattern with the center-line on the plank, and adhere the pattern to the plank beginning at the stern and working forward, being careful that there are no wrinkles in the plan or bubbles trapped under it, and that the center-line at the bow still matches up with the center-line on the plank. Anther point to consider when gluing the patterns down, is that if the grain of the wood as observed from the end, as shown in Figure 8, curves in the same direction as the hull, sanding and shaping will be much easier. The top two planks, which do not need to be shaped to any complex curves, will be flipped over to counteract the rest of the planks’ tendency to warp in the direction of the curve of the grain. When it comes time to saw the planks, remember to cut outside the line you are cutting to. You can always remove more wood later, but it’s much more difficult to add more on. I try to leave up to 1/4” of extra wood outside the line. But, something about that line makes me want to cut right up against it, so as shown in Figure 9, to remind myself to give it some space, I use a 1/4” chisel-point felt marker along the outer edge of the line. This way, as long as your saw blade is in the black, your saw cut is o.k. Each pattern, while centered on the board side-to-side thanks to the line we drew the length of the plank earlier, may be slightly forward or back along the length of the plank. To get them all lined up when gluing them together, we have to create some reference lines. Begin by extending the section lines on the plan out to the edges of the planks, as shown in Figure 10. Once you have the lines drawn from the pattern to the edge of the plank, use your square to extend them down the edge of the plank as shown in Figure 11. Do the same with the center lines drawn earlier, extending them from the top of the plank down the edges. Accuracy is important here. Work carefully and check it visually from several angles. On the very bottom plank, extend the section lines across the bottom of the plank, as well as the center line, as shown in Figure 12. The final result of all these lines is shown in Figure 13. We will see how important these lines are on the next page , as we prepare to cut out the patterns, and the third page, where we begin final shaping of the hull. Other Pages Page 1 Page 2 Page 3 Page 4 Page 5 Page 6 […] Building a Bread-and-Butter Solid Hull Ship Model […] […] describing Creating a Solid Hull Ship Model from a single block of wood (for smaller models), Building a Bread-and-Butter Solid Hull Ship Model (a better method for larger models), and Scratch-Building a Plank-on-Bulkhead Ship Model (which […] […] describing Creating a Solid Hull Ship Model from a single block of wood (for smaller models), Building a Bread-and-Butter Solid Hull Ship Model (a better method for larger models), and Scratch-Building a Plank-on-Bulkhead Ship Model (which […] Leave a Reply Cancel reply - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day Remember me Not recommended on shared computers Forgot your password? 85' Air-Sea Rescue Boat by Melissa T. - Scale 1:32 - FINISHED By Melissa T. October 27, 2023 in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day Reply to this topic Start new topic Recommended Posts Before anybody buys an airbrushing rig, I strongly suggest they read the thread linked below.  Pay particular attention to Kurt Van Dahm's comments at post #7. Kurt is MSW's airbrushing expert, as far as I'm concerned. (And it appears the Badger airbrush company shares my opinion!) I expect if you send Kurt a PM, he will be able to recommend something that best meets your needs at your chosen price-point. Note also that I believe the MSW sponsor,  USA AIRBRUSH  SUPPLY,  offers discounts to MSW members.  Your 85' ASR build looks like it's coming along very well. I have a bit of first-hand familiarity with this family of "crash boat" vessels. There were several around San Francisco Bay "back when" and at least one of the 85 footers is still afloat and operational on the S.F. Bay and Delta waters. See:  Testimonials (homesteadcloud.com) They were quite popular with the Sea Scouts, who apparently were at one time able to get them for nothing as government surplus.  A friend of mine's father skippered the Air Force ASR stationed at Hamilton AFB in Novato, CA on S.F. Bay as recently as the late 'sixties or early 'seventies. The widespread misconception that the hulls of the PT's, ASR's, and similar small craft built in WWII were built of plywood deserves to be dispelled. Plywood was used in the construction of flat surfaces in these boats, such as decks and bulkheads, but not in their curved hull surfaces because their hull forms contained compound curves (where curves go in more than one direction at a time in the same piece of material.) Because the plies of plywood are laid in different directions, plywood can only be bent in one direction and is not suitable for developing compound curved shapes. The wooden hulls of the WWII production small craft in question were built with multiple layers of traditionally spiled planking fastened together with glue and mechanical fasteners, the compound curved shapes being developed in the lay-up of the planking layers. This is a much more involved construction process than simply nailing sheets of prefabricated plywood to a frame.  All of the 85 foot ASR's were double-planked with a layer of canvas laid in waterproof adhesive between the planking layers. The inner cedar planking was hung at 45 degrees to the diagonal, 1/2" thick below the chine and 7/16" thick above the chine. The Honduras mahogany outer planking was hung horizontally and was 3/4" thick below the chine and 9/16" thick above the chine.  The inner planking was fastened to the longitudinal timbers with bronze screws and to the frames with copper nails. The outer planking was fastened through the inner planking into the frames with bronze screws. The inner planking was then fastened to the outer planking with bronze screws from the inside. The decks were 3/4" fir plywood, fastened with Monel ring-necked nails to the deck beams and with bronze screws to the shelf and clamp. The decks were canvas laid over white lead paste. The 85 footers were decidedly  not  planked with plywood because their hull shapes included compound curves which are not possible to develop. The planking was finished "fair" (smooth) as might be expected, so planking and filling your model hull with a sanding filler and then painting will permit you to use wider planking stock as you have used on the bottom, but I would expect that the graceful curves of the bows will be more easily developed with narrower planks than you were able to use below the chine.  If you haven't come across it already, you will find the "U.S. Crash Boats" website a goldmine of information on the entire "crash boat" and "Air-Sea Rescue" class with specific information on the 85' ASR's. This site provides more information than I've ever seen on this type of site. It has PDF's of all the applicable manuals, design and construction details, and even extensive crew lists for all of the crash boats. See:  85 ft. Army Air Force Rescue Boat ( uscrashboats.org)  See also for a large number of interior and exterior detail photos highly useful for scratch modeling:  Boats: Crash Boat, Aviation | Flickr  . Canute and Melissa T. Link to comment Share on other sites. And thanks to everyone for your kind comments and good advice on airbrushes - much to review and think about! Canute , Ryland Craze , Bob Cleek and 1 other Current Build: Taking a Short Break Completed:  85’ Air-Sea Rescue Boat - Scratch Build, Gunboat Philadelphia - Model Shipways, Statenjacht - Kolderstok, Swampscott Dory - BlueJacket ShipCrafters Member of the Nautical Research Guild Funny coincidence. I happened to see this book listed in the WoodenBoat Store book section:  Crash Boat  published in 2021. It apparently recounts the exploits of the ASR's in the South Pacific. I thought it might be of interest to you if you haven't come across it in your research as yet.  See:  Crash Boat: Rescue and Peril in the Pacific During World War II: Jepson, George D.: 9781493059232: Amazon.com: Books  (Shop around, it may be available for less elsewhere. Apparently available in both hardcover and paperback.) Canute , Melissa T. , mtaylor and 1 other 4 weeks later... Basic hull is mostly complete, minus some more sanding down to 600 grit and the rub strakes that I still have to make. Amazingly, it actually matches when I lay it on top of the plans, so I’m happy with it! Someone in previous posts mentioned using shellac, and I wanted to ask about that.  What shellac, or other product, could I use to seal this hull and fill any remaining cracks in the wood grain?  I would want to be able to sand again after applying this product, and then ultimately airbrush with an acrylic primer and then paint.  Thanks in advance! GrandpaPhil , scrubbyj427 , yvesvidal and 7 others Roger Pellett Since you are gong to paint the finished model, why not just spray it with a pigmented primer.  This will highlight and allow you to deal with all sorts of blemishes that you will not see with a clear coating such as Shellac.  This first prime coat is sacrificial. Once you have filled blemishes and sanded the hull there should be very little left.  You can repeat this prime/fill/prime process until you are happy with the results. If you use a water based primer (many acrylics are thinned with water), it will raise the grain in the wood creating a rough surface.  That’s OK because you are going to sand the primed surface anyway and the water’s effect on the grain will disappear after a few applications of primer.  Fillers:  To a large extent, the primer will fill the grain, but you will need some sort of filler to fill nicks, planking gaps, etc.  Everyone seems to have their favorite.  Mine is Durham’s Rock Hard  Water Putty.  This can be found in hardware stores.  It comes as a powder to be mixed with water so you can mix it to different consistencies. mtaylor , Canute , KeithAug and 1 other Thank you Roger! Canute and mtaylor On some of mu older (50+ years) models I had problems with the wooden planking swelling and shrinking with humidity, age, whatever. This cracked the paint on the hulls. I started using a thin clear epoxy paint on the interior of the planking. Model airplane builders use this paint to seal balsa engine mounts so fuel cannot soak into the wood. I apply a fairly heavy coat so it will seep between the planks and between the planks and the bulkheads. It does soak into the wood surfaces, and when it hardens the hull is very solid. I have hulls 35+ years old that have never developed cracks. I mention this because you are at the right stage to paint the interior - before the deck goes on. Not many people do this, but at least one of best model builders on this site use it inside planked hulls. You won't have to worry about the hull planking cracking years down the line if you do this. KeithAug , Canute , mtaylor and 1 other Current build: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/19611-albatros-by-dr-pr-mantua-scale-140-about-1815/&tab=comments#comment-601276 Previous build: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/19321-uss-oklahoma-city-clg-5-1971-3d-cad-model/ Interesting, and I may try that!  Here’s where I am right now, after four coats of Rust-oleum automotive primer and a lot of sanding. I used the Durham’s water putty to fill cracks, etc, which was an excellent suggestion. Have also drilled a few holes for exhaust and bilge. Traveling for the next couple of weeks, so I won’t get back to it until late in the month. Valeriy V , scrubbyj427 , GrandpaPhil and 7 others Wow!  Hull looks great! Thanks Roger, and thanks for the recommendation of Durham’s putty. I had never heard of the stuff. I like that I can apply it with my fingertips and that the excess sands off easily. mtaylor , Canute and Roger Pellett That hull's looking really good, Melissa. mtaylor and Canute Thanks, John! 1 month later... Traveling quite a bit last month, so not too much progress though the hull is now complete with rub strakes, rudders, etc. Turning attention now to deck and pilot house. KeithAug , Ryland Craze , Valeriy V and 9 others Looking good!! Melissa T. , mtaylor and Canute The hull has turned out well. Planking when the frames are widely spaced is quite tricky but you seem to have made a success of it. Well done. Current Build:- Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24 Previous Builds:- Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/ Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702 J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029 Other Topics Nautical Adventures http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846 She's really coming along very nicely, Melissa! Canute , mtaylor and Melissa T. Nicely done. She looks fast. 👍 mtaylor and Melissa T. Started: MS Bounty Longboat , On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1 Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section Member Nautical Research Guild Work proceeds steadily, albeit very slowly. Hull and deck painting are complete, for which I did a lot of research on paint colors used in the CBI. Can’t say I enjoy using an airbrush, but it’s necessary for this kind of project.  The superstructure is next, which will be extremely challenging (for me, at least) due to its many angles and curved surfaces. Working on the .50 cal gun tubs now, for which I used a couple of PVC couplings in the right size as a mold to bend 1/64” plywood around.  I have found it is difficult for me to envision the two dimensional plans and photos as a three dimensional object, so I have adopted as a best practice making everything in card stock first to see how it looks and fits before cutting any wood. Onward! Jay 1 , yvesvidal , GrandpaPhil and 9 others Very nice paint job, melissa. It's a good idea to use mock-ups in card if you can't easily visualise an object from the plan. i think it's important to know what something looks like before you build it. mtaylor , Canute and Melissa T. Really nice work Melissa!  The deck structures can be tricky on these small craft as they often slope.  This means that a conventional three view (orthographic) drawing provides a distorted view of the shapes.  While there are manual drafting techniques and of course CAD that can provide a "true view,"  modeling in cardboard will work too and of course then you wind up with patterns. 3 months later... Life got busy these past few months, and I got away from posting on my build log. Progress on the boat however has been slow but steady and I’m about 90-95% finished at this point. Mostly some detailed deck fittings remain.    Question to any of you who may know something about these boats - What are the two structures on the picture of the actual boat from 1945 that I have pointed at with red arrows?  The one on top of the crows nest looks like it might be some kind of antenna, but nothing I’m familiar with. I also have no idea what the cylindrical object on the starboard side of the pilot house is. No closer up photos exist (and of course neither object is on the plans). Any ideas appreciated. GrandpaPhil , Canute , Ryland Craze and 6 others Can't help with those fitting, Melissa, but the model has come up extremely well! It is possible that the pipe in your photo is the ventilation of the interior spaces, raised above the deck level to prevent it from being flooded with water. Melissa T. and Canute Thank you, Jim and Valeriy!   Canute and Valeriy V Perhaps this photo will be of some use to you. Canute , Melissa T. , GrandpaPhil and 2 others Still awaiting some deck cleats and a winch, but I’m declaring it FINISHED!!! Seventynet , ERS Rich , GrandpaPhil and 1 other 11 hr The title was changed to 85' Air-Sea Rescue Boat by Melissa T. - Scale 1:32 - FINISHED Knocklouder Start so you can Finish !! Finished:         The Sea of Galilee Boat-Scott Miller-1:20 ,   Amati } Hannah Ship in a Bottle:Santa Maria : LA  Pinta : La Nana : The Mayflower : Viking Ship Drakkar  The King Of the Mississippi  Artesania Latina  1:80  Great work, Melissa. She's a credit to you! Wonderful build, beautiful result!! Very impressive!! Join the conversation You can post now and register later. 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Articles Database NRG Home Page NRG Online Store Important: Our Guidelines Terms of Use Buildlog Index About the NRG If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you. The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships. The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines. Our Emblem ® Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023) Existing user? Sign In Latest Posts All unread content since my last vist Unread topics I have posted in Create New... 108 IMAGES Planking the Hull Beginning to Plank the Hull Planking the Hull model ship building hull planking online pdf ~ Plywood dory boat plans Planking the Hull Planking the Hull VIDEO Alpha yacht hull construction without bulkheads How to mark bulkheads on a ship model hull. Santa Maria Shipmodel planking Model Boat Building Model Ship building. Planking for beginners. An overview How To Plank The Hull Of A Wooden Model Boat Flats Boat build part 8 COMMENTS PDF Simple Hull Planking Techniques for Beginners On the 3 planks mark the calculated measurements from the graph. On the 1st plank start at the bottom of the plank, left hand end, mark up 4mm, at the position of bulkhead 7 mark up from the bottom 4.6mm, then at bulkhead position 6 the measurement is the full width of the plank. Take a ruler and join the dots. Planking Tips For Building a Model Ship 4. PLANK FIXING. 5. DOUBLE PLANKING. 6. DECK PLANKING. Key Takeaways. Our DVD on Hull Planking on a Model Ship (How to Build a Model Ship) is a great help for novice modelers, and the Author has been very kind to publish on YouTube a 30 minutes long sequence about planking. How To Plank The Hull Of A Wooden Model Boat / Ship Part 1 ... 🚢 Set sail on a journey of craftsmanship and creativity with our comprehensive tutorial series on building a wooden model boat or ship! In this exciting vid... Model Boat Hull Design and Construction There are typically three ways to carve a hull: 1. Carved solid block model boat hull. Part 1: Preparing the block for model boat hull carving. Part 2: Shaping the block into a model boat hull. Part 3: Adding keel and rudder to the model boat hull. Part 4: Adding strip decks and gunwale to the model boat hull. 2. Planking the Hull Lining Off the Hull. The first step was to line off the hull. This is where you figure out the length of the hull at each bulkhead and use that to divide the hull into even bands for planking. Because each bulkhead is a different size, you have to determine the length at each bulkhead separately. How To Plank The Hull Of A Wooden Model Boat / Ship Part 2: Adding 🔧⛵ Welcome aboard to the second part of our comprehensive shipbuilding series! ⛵🔧In this highly anticipated episode, we delve deeper into the fascinating w... Finishing Hull Planking The goal is add a bunch of wood filler/putty, let it dry, then sand it down so the hull is perfectly smooth. The practicum (and many Bluenose build logs) show a very generous amount of wood filler being applied. They recommend spreading it on like you'd put peanut butter on bread - just cover the whole thing. PDF Hull Planking Hints & Tips.ppt Mark it on the hull, both sides (should be identical) and install port and starboard wales. Treenails. •Making treenails is best done out of bamboo. Split the wood, do not cut it to shape. If not bamboo, then birch is a good substitute. 1/16 inch birch dowels can be purchased at many hobby shops in the model airplane section. Beginning to Plank the Hull Using the plans, you divide the hull in the bands, and measure the plank thickness for each band. This involves tick marks, etc. The instructions also have you cutting the strips to a more correct length. Instead of using the full strips along the hull, you cut and install pieces that are about 7″ each. Model Boat Hull Construction The carved block model boat hull construction is best used for: Static ship models - up to 600mm (24 inches) long. Making a pattern for resin or fiberglass hulls. Making ship's boats ("life boats") This method has disadvantages, such as: Hulls may crack - The risk is increased with large cross sections and the use of inproperly seasoned lumber. How to Build a Ship Model (Planking) The following video clip is a short sequence from Modellers Shipyard DVD on How to Build a Model Ship (Planking). The complete DVD is over 3 hours of narrati... My Process for Planking Fifie fishing boat Lady Eleanor Muirneag ... Cheerful 1806 18th-century-English-longboat-by-Blue-Ensign-ms-148-scale/ 18thc English Pinnace by Blue Ensign-Model-Shipways-1:24 scale/ ... following Chuck Passaro's lining the hull and plank bending strictly with heat. I also no longer have the need for stealers, a by-product of my current process. Planking: An Introduction to Methods & Techniques Transferring Points to the Planking Stock. Remove the spiling batten from the boat setup and place it on the planking stock. Again, be careful not to twist it as you tack or clamp it to the board. Place the compass point (the non-pencil end) on a batten arc near its end and draw a new arc on the planking stock. How To Plank The Hull of a Sharp Bow Model Ship Repeat for the other side of the hull. Step 3: Let this plank follow its natural course over the bulkhead frames to the bow and stern of the mid -ship bulkhead frames. At the stern the plank will be terminated at the junction between the keel and transom. At the bow let the plank follow its natural course. How To Plank The Hull of a Bluff Bow Model Ship Step 1. In the kit there will be a 4mm thick plywood sheet as shown Photo 1 below. On this sheet there will be a number of parts for the model. The keel, bulkheads and transom are the parts needed to construct the hull. When fitted and glued together these parts form the skeleton of the hull. Model Boats Website A curving hull can be tricky. If the hull is to be painted, then I would lay the planks straight, and fill in with shorter pieces cutting to fit the gaps. If the planking will be seen, then a wood steaming method may need to be used to shape the wood around the curves. More experienced Modelers than I would be able to instruct you through this ... PDF Hull Planking Hints & Tips.ppt [Compatibility Mode] %PDF-1.4 %ÀÈÌÒ 1 0 obj /Title (Hull Planking Hints & Tips.ppt [Compatibility Mode]) /Author (DMT) /Creator (pdfFactory www.pdffactory.com) /Producer (pdfFactory 5.32 \(Windows 10 x64\)) /CreationDate (D:20160122172103-08'00') >> endobj 5 0 obj /Filter/FlateDecode /Length 248 >>stream H‰ 'ÁNÃ0 †ï}Šÿ„Æa^l§i¸N íȤ¼šml £pàí I3ºV S.öïÏ¿-ç€y(f kÉX„—‚­'÷ ... How To Plank The Hull Of A Wooden Model Boat How To Plank The Hull Of A Wooden Model Boat / fixing an issue whilst planking the Hull. Model Ship Master: Plank on frame construction Hollow-hull construction is difficult and time-consuming and therefore avoided by many model ship builders. This construction method requires the artists to use heat to bend narrow planks and nail/glue them one by one onto a frame to form the accurate, unique curves of the ship's hull. We hope that the following photos will illustrate the ... Building a Bread-and-Butter Solid Hull Ship Model The most basic form of scratch-built ship modeling is the solid hull technique that we demonstrated on our page Creating a Solid Hull Ship Model.While the method demonstrated there - using a solid block of wood to create the hull for a 19th Century William Doughty-designed revenue cutter - works well for smaller models, a solid block of wood large enough to build a bigger model will be ... Double planking a hull: pros and cons I hope the forum will provide some last minute advice. I am about ready to start cutting wood for my first wooden ship scratchbuild, a P.O.B. schooner in 1/40 scale. This will be my first attempt at planking a hull. I have read logs and how-to guides looking for a clear statement (and reason) fro... Wooden Model ship Planking Model ship ways Rattlesnake video guide to practical Planking of the hull. 85' Air-Sea Rescue Boat by Melissa T. The planking was finished "fair" (smooth) as might be expected, so planking and filling your model hull with a sanding filler and then painting will permit you to use wider planking stock as you have used on the bottom, but I would expect that the graceful curves of the bows will be more easily developed with narrower planks than you were able ... 3 methods of Spiling for a Boat Hull, Carvel Planking Part 1, S2-E17 This video is the first part of several on Carvel boat planking. In this episode 3 methods of spiling are discussed. Spiling is a method that a boat builder ... catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht