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How To Paint A Sailboat: A Complete Guide

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

Whether you’re new to owning a sailboat or not, you have likely put some thought into painting your boat yourself. It is important to keep your boat well painted as it can save you a lot of money in the long run. It can also save you a lot of money if you choose to paint your boat yourself.

Whether or not this is the first time you have painted your boat, you will still find this article useful. It has lots of tips and tricks for making sure you get the job done and get it done well. Hiring a professional may be easier, but there is a sense of pride and accomplishment in doing it yourself. If you use this article as a reference, you can’t go wrong.

Table of contents

Why is it important to paint your sailboat?

Painting your boat is not just an excuse to put some creative flair into your boat, it is an important process in keeping the boat safe. Safe from salt, safe from barnacles, and safe from damage. The paint acts as a vital protective layer, without it your boat will be vulnerable to all kinds of damage. If you have a wooden hull, this protective layer will keep the wood from rotting. It can also plug any minuscule holes that might allow sea life and salt to make its way into the body of the boat.

There is also, of course, the added benefit of having a boat that looks good . A boat is a point of pride and should be treated as such. Having a glossy looking boat is something to be proud of. Most boats are not painted far above the waterline, so it is even an opportunity to make your boat stand out. Some people also believe that painting a boat brings good luck. Unless of course, you paint it green, green is thought to bring bad luck. Whether or not you believe that is up to you.

What are the benefits of painting your boat yourself?

When it comes to painting your boat there are only two options. Hire a professional boat painting contractor, or bite the bullet and do it yourself. They both have their pros and cons, of course, but there is so much more to be gained by doing it yourself. First of all, painting your boat yourself is just as fun as it is difficult. Learning to paint is a valuable life skill that you won’t regret learning as early on in your sailing career as possible. If you can learn to paint your boat now, you will save yourself a small fortune in the long run.

Hiring a contractor is expensive, to say the least, it may be faster and easier overall, but the extra cost can make it simply not feasible. Or simply unappealing. If this is the first time you are painting your sailboat you will need to make a one-off purchase of all the equipment needed for prepping, painting, and finishing the boat. After these one-off purchases are out of the way, you will only need to buy paint and new rollers the next time. Even if you need to buy all the equipment brand new, it can be cheaper than hiring someone else to do the job for you.

How often do you need to paint your sailboat?

The general rule of thumb for painting your boat is that it will need bottom paint about once a year. This is when you will need to take the boat completely out of the water and give it a fresh new coat. If your boat spends all of its time in the water, it certainly needs painting at least once a year. The saltwater is so corrosive that you shouldn’t let your boat go without a fresh coat of bottom paint for more than 2 years. Even if your boat only spends half its time in the water, and the other half on land, you will find that its best to keep its coat topped up.

The top paint, or the above waterline paint, doesn’t need painting anywhere near as often. It isn’t in direct contact with the seawater so it simply isn’t going to get eroded down as much. The salty sea spray can still be damaging over time so this paint should be re-done every 3 years. It can be more or less frequent depending on use and personal preference. Some people like to do above waterline paint yearly, with the rest of their boat, but it isn’t necessary.

What are the best paints to use for your sailboat?

There are plenty of great brands of paint out there, in various colors and shades, so you won’t struggle for choice. There are some things you might want to look for in your paint . For example, you may have noticed that a lot of boats tend to have red hulls. This isn’t just a fashion statement, and while red is supposed to bring luck this isn’t the main reason either. The reason is that this red/orange paint is perfect for added protection along the bottom of your boat.

This red/orange paint is interestingly chosen because it is, of course, traditional; but mostly because of its copper. The copper is actually what gives the paint its red/orange color.

Copper is perfect for the bottom of your boat for several reasons. First, copper acts as a biocide. It stops worms from making their way into the hull if your boat is wooden. If it is metal or fiberglass, it still has the benefit of stopping barnacles and other sea life from attaching themselves deep into the hull of the boat. Copper is also strong enough to hold up to scraping.

Scraping is when you scrape barnacles and other sea life off the hull of your boat. Scraping is an important part of keeping your boat in good condition. It is important to check with the marina or port authority whether or not you are allowed to scrape. If you scrape without permission you may find yourself on the receiving end of a hefty fine. The reason is that they don’t want you introducing invasive species on to the marina floor. This is mostly a problem when you are coming from somewhere vastly foreign, not sailing from New York to Chicago for example.

How many coats of paint does a sailboat need?

When painting your boat it’s a good idea to think about how many coats of paint you are going to need. There is no exact number that is needed, it is mostly to do with how well protected your boat needs to be and how much time you have on your hands. Every coat takes time and attention to detail.

If you choose to do four coats of paint it is going to be time-consuming but very well protected. That being said, the minimum number of coats is two. One is not enough. If your boat only spends part of the time in the water, two to three coats are plenty.

If you are someone who lives on their boat full-time, or at least most of the time, you may want to do more coats. Three, maybe even four, might be ideal here. The reason is that first, your boat is going to experience way more wear and tear than one that is just an ocean part-timer. And second, taking out your boat (which is also your home) is a giant hassle. It is a tedious process, so doing it as infrequently as possible is probably in your best interest. More coats last longer. When you are sailing from place to place, finding somewhere to take your boat out of the water and perform this maintenance is inconvenient. You want to be doing it as little as possible.

What safety precautions do I need to take when painting my sailboat?

All paint can be toxic when inhaled. Even if it is “non-toxic” paint it is going to be harmful to your lungs. They aren’t meant to inhale anything but air, even non-toxic paint is going to be bad for them. This is why it is important to wear a face mask.

Your mask should be specifically for painting, not surgical masks or other cheap medial masks. They are not going to be strong enough, with a fine enough air filter. Whether you feel the need to wear eyewear is up to you during the painting process.

Before the painting begins, when you are scraping and sanding, it is a good idea to wear some goggles to keep debris and splinters out of your eyes. It is also a good idea to wear gloves. You don’t want to rough your hands up too much, they need protection from not only the paint but splinters and sharp pieces of metal.

Painting a boat can be dangerous work. Without taking the proper safety precautions you are putting yourself at unnecessary risk. This safety equipment costs just a few bucks and is equally important as any of the other tools needed to paint your boat.

What tools do I need to paint a boat?

There is more to painting your boat than just using paint and a brush . You will also need tough sandpaper , potentially an angle grinder or welder , paint, primer , brushes, paint rollers , paint thinner , and solvent. You will need to make sure you have all of these things before you start painting. You can pick any of these items up at a boating goods store.

It is a good idea to bring some buckets with you for filling with water, both for rinsing off your boat and your brushes. All of your safety equipment needs to be brought too.

If this is your first time painting your boat yourself, you may find you need to buy all of these things at once. That can be a lot to stomach when its all in one go, luckily, most of these tools and equipment can be reused. Besides, it is still going to be far cheaper than hiring someone to do it for you. All of this equipment is an investment in your boat.

How to paint a sailboat

Whether this is the first time you have painted your boat or not, you may find some of the tips in this next section useful. Painting your sailboat may be tricky at first, but over time you will get the hang of it. The problem with painting your boat is that it can be a very expensive mistake if you get it wrong.

It is important to read this guide carefully, take your time, and make sure you do the job properly. It may be slow going at first, speed will come over time. Once you have gathered all of your safety equipment and tools you are ready to get started.

The workspace

First of all, you need to ensure you have the right workspace. You cant paint your boat in the water so you are going to need to find somewhere to do your work. This is easy enough if you don’t live on your boat full time, take the boat to your house and do your painting on the driveway. If this isn’t an option because you don’t have space or live on your boat full time, you are going to need to rent somewhere. There are typically places affiliated with the marina that you can use. In some cases, these even come with a majority of the equipment you will need. This, of course, drums up the price a bit, but that’s unavoidable.

Your workspace needs to be well ventilated, or you risk making yourself very sick. Both from paint fumes, rubbing alcohol fumes, and fine matter from when you sand the hull down. This means painting your boat in your garage, if it even fits, is not always the best idea. If you do decide to paint outside, it is important to consider the chance of rain. Of course, your boat is pretty waterproof, but once you begin sanding rain might damage the wood if left to sit there.

Before you do anything else, it is important to look your boat over fully from top to bottom. You are looking for any bumps, scrapes, cracks and general damage. This damage is not going to be noticeable while the boat is in the water, so just before you paint it is one of the only times you get to have a close look. Once you have made note of all this damage, it is time to get to work repairing it. Depending on just how severe this damage is, you may want to get help with this next stage.

All of this damage needs to be repaired before anything else can take place. Painting over these damaged areas is just going to hide the problem temporarily, the next time it comes to painting you will find they are far worse. If you don’t deal with this now, they are going to snowball into complicated and expensive repairs.

After your repairs are done it is time to start sanding. This is very time consuming as you need to do it three times. Per coat. First, take the 600 grit sandpaper and make your way around the boat. It is best to use electrical tape to mark out a section at a time so you don’t keep losing your place. After you have finished with the 600 grit sandpaper, it is time to move on to 800, then 1200. This process is important so you will be painting on as smooth a surface as possible. It is then a good idea to wipe the surfaces of the boat down with a damp cloth to remove any of the dust and flakes of metal/wood. Otherwise, you end up painting over them.

You could wash the boat down with a hose but you want to avoid getting the boat unnecessarily wet now that the hull has lost its protective layer. If you are sanding down a boat with a copper paint bottom, you may find the sanding process difficult. Just do your best, it doesn’t need to be 100% perfect. It is important to get as much of the old paint off as possible. Your new paint won’t adhere to the old paint as well as it would to the boat hull itself.

Putting on a layer of primer is not 100% necessary but it is recommended. The idea is that you want your topcoat to adhere to the boat as well as possible, a layer of primer can help you do that. The primer needs to be painted on evenly all over the boat. If you only feel like doing below the waterline, that is fine too. It will save you a lot of time. Putting on the layer of primer is not the most time-consuming part, it is mostly the sanding down that you will have to do. You will need to sand down using the 600 grit paper, then the 800, then 1200. Just like last time. Your layer of primer needs to be as smooth as possible for the maximum adhesion.

Now comes the paint. It is recommended to do at least two layers of paint. One undercoat and one top. Some people choose to go as far as two layers of primer, two layers of undercoat, and three layers of topcoat. This is going to be very time consuming, remember you will need to sand down three times between each layer of paint. You can paint using a brush if you like but is far easier to use a roller. It is also far easier if you employ someone to help you with this stage. It could be your spouse, child, friend, or anyone. It doesn’t need to be a paid professional. It can take a long time to go through this process. Especially if you are effectively doing 8 layers of paint (including primer).

The fastest way to paint, especially if you are on your own, is to use a sprayer. They are easy to use, with a little practice. If you haven’t used one before you may find that you struggle to get an even coat. You should always paint in vertical stripes, not horizontal. Additionally, it is a good idea to have someone following after you with a small brush doing small touch-up jobs. Any unevenness will need to be sanded down and repainted. The whole painting process can take a week if you aren’t efficient.

Take pictures

It is a good idea to take pictures throughout the whole process. This is for future reference. For example, if you take pictures of the boat when you are assessing it for damage, you can compare them to after you have repaired or sanded the trouble spots down. If you cant see the trouble spots still, great! If you can, it will help you keep an eye on them after you have painted too. It’s a good idea to catalog all of these areas if they start to become regular problems you may want to have your boat looked at by a mechanic. You might also like to have a before and after picture for your blog, or just as a personal memento.

Hopefully, you now have all the theory needed to paint your boat. There is a lot more that goes into painting your boat than simply grabbing some paint and a brush. It takes planning, practice, and attention to detail. If you follow this guide you will have no trouble at all. If this is your first time painting your boat, don’t be disheartened if it takes a lot longer than you expected. Speed will come with time, it is far more important to get the job done right than get it done quickly. If you put the work in you will be painting like a pro in no time at all.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Painting with Interlux Perfection Two Part Polyurethane

Choosing Interlux Perfection: I did some searching of boating forums and found a lot of praise for the way Interlux Perfection rolled and tipped. Perfection is a two-part polyurethane paint, and I wanted a two part because of its documented ability to stand up over years of exposure to sun and weather. I found Perfection available at Jamestown Distributors. Jamestown has done a fantastic job of posting advice and videos showing how to use Perfection to get a professional looking paint job by rolling and tipping.

The hull choice: The sailboat is an early ’80s Evelyn 26. The boat has a nice hull shape and I wanted to show off the lines with a dramatic navy blue. (See the Evelyn story bottom of page)

Prep work: I feel that a sailboat really doesn’t need an automotive level prep because, unlike the hood of a car people won’t be looking across the surface of the paint very often. Most times people will be looking down at the hull from the dock, or from very far away as I do a horizon job – yeah right… But, I do like making sure any gouges or rough spots have been fared. The paint can’t look any better than what it’s being applied to, so I took my time. I made sure to wipe down the hull with the two rag method. Wiping the de-waxer on with one rag and removing the remaining liquid with a clean rag. I tried, best as I could to be sure the hull was free of wax so I wouldn’t have any fish eyes caused by wax particles overcoming the surface tension of the paint.

One problem was the name STARFIRE was pretty thickly painted on both sides. I realized at the point of starting to sand that the hull had been painted before. I used 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper to carefully remove the name without going through the paint on the hull. I took a bit of a risk by assuming that the white hull paint was so hard that it had to be a two part polyurethane. I could have been wrong,  and by all accounts, I would have a mess on my hands because a two part paint will not work over a one part. I could have tested a small area as advised by Jamestown, but I just went with my gut, and luckily I was right.

Final prep: After bringing the boat into a shop I was able to sand the hull with 220 grit paper on an orbital sander. I wiped down the hull with mineral spirits using the two rag method. At that point I masked off the waterline, toe rail, and a few thru-hull fittings on the transom. Just after I mixed the paint I tack clothed the entire hull carefully.

The paint: I read that the paint should be thinned 8-10% depending on the temperature. I thought the shop was running a bit cool hovering at 60 degrees. I went with a little less thinning at 7%. I reviewed my math several times to be sure I had the right amount. I used a medicine cup from children’s Motrin that we seem to use a lot of at our house. The medicine cup held up to the Interlux Interthane 2333N reducing solvent with no problem . I mixed the paint and waited the required 20 minutes to allow the paint to make its magical molecular bonds.

My technique : I had my dad roll. He had a foam roller that our Jamestown contact said would apply the paint in an even pattern without breaking down quickly. Our contact did say that we needed to check the condition of the roller throughout the job to be sure it wasn’t beginning to lose its elasticity. The roller held up well throughout the entire first coat. Link to roller: 6+Inch+Foam+Roller+Covers My dad would lay down about 2 feet of paint ahead of me and I worked the paint with horizontal brush strokes to flatten out the tiny bubbles from the roller. The hardest part was working the paint into the masked area where the hull met the toe rail. The roller couldn’t wet this one inch wide area because the toe rail sticks over the hull. With upward strokes at a 45 degree angle I was able to pull paint to the dry strip and evenly spread the paint. The last stroke I made was a vertical brush stroke from the rail to the boot stripe. This really smoothed out any brush lines and reduced any chance of paint sag do to a thick wet horizontal line of paint. At times we needed to move the scaffold and the wetted edge would dry a bit. My dad rolled over the dry edge with the last pass of the roller by about a roller width. I would not attempt to do any horizontal strokes, instead I pulled the paint down from the top and didn’t see any demarcation between where we started or left off. This really seemed to be the best way to transition from a dry line to a wet line in both the first and second coats.

End day one: After we had finished the first coat I could see faint areas where the white paint ghosted through. It took almost all of the first quart to coat the hull. The color from Interlux (Flag Blue) covered very well. One coat would never have passed as a final coat, but it was pretty dramatic at covering.

Wait 14 hours: The next day I was able to sand out any little runs with 300 grit paper. I hit the hull with a light sanding using 220 and tack clothed. With the techniques and practice from the day before, my dad and I had a rhythm that worked well. The second coat went on really well, and we had no runs to contend with. And then, the pleasurable moment of removing the masking tape and paper while the paint was still soft – always a thrill.

Recommend this paint? I am completely happy with the results. I would also consider mixing smaller batches of color to paint smaller dinghy sailboat hulls. I have an old beige Sunfish that could really get a great paint job from rolling and tipping Perfection.

Video of painting the Evelyn SKYLARK highlights:

Moments after removing the tape:

The Evelyn SKYLARK Story: This boat has a great race record from near the Boston. It was purchased by a father and son near us at Point Breeze, New York to sail at the Oak Orchard Yacht Club. Disaster stuck when a tree limb fell on the boat during storage. The mast was broken in to two, but it saved the cabin and rest of the boat from any real damage. The boat was a deemed a total loss and was subsequently donated to Oak Orchard Yacht Club. If the club could fix the mast it would be a loner boat for people to sail. Then… The boat sat idle for over two years. The club was not interested in having a project boat sitting on their property and the boat was offered for free to my father, and then I came along. I was very excited to get an Evelyn 26 sailboat at the end of summer 2013. The boat has nice lines, but I really couldn’t warm up to the large stripe running partway down its hull. Although, once I removed the stripe the hull looked very nice, I though going for navy blue would make the boat look sleeker. Next project: I need to repaint the boot stripe and add a matching red cove stripe.

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How to Repair a Laser®/ILCA Daggerboard

We had a visit from David Summerville of Phoenix Marine at the Rooster Head Office to demonstrate how he repairs Laser® / ILCA Foils.

I am sure that after watching the video you will be well equipped and encouraged to do it yourself, but if you have realised how much time and materials are required, then you might also like to leave it to the experts. Phoenix Marine will repair and re spray (with a water based polyurethane finish using a spray oven). Please contact them directly for a quote.

In the video David used polyester products, which are fine and low cost, but epoxy products these days give a stronger bond, not so brittle as polyester/GRP repairs, but the materials on the downside cost slightly more, and take longer to fully cure. Both products need warm surfaces and air temperatures (Over 12deg C) to full cure.  The WEST system has a useful kit called the  WEST SYSTEM 105K GLASS FIBRE BOAT REPAIR KIT.  

This kit is complete with all the brushes and pots you need, plus 'peel ply',  to give a finish to the epoxy surface, ready for final white coating again with epoxy resin mix, but we suggest using with a very small amount of the WEST white pigment to give a final finish. You will also need some Acetone solvent either in tins of 250ml, 500ml or 1 Litre to clean up brushes and tools etc. Acetone works with both epoxy and polyester resin products .

Products mentioned in this article

West System 105K Glass Fibre Boat Repair Kit

West System 501 Colour Additive (WHITE)-0.125kg

Acetone - 500ml

West Systems 874 100mm Peel Ply tape per metre

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Discover how to start the sport of Laser sailing with our step-by-step guide that quickly gets you onto the water.

Even with NO experience at all, we simplify the process to help you learn the basics of sailing , along with tips and techniques used by expert sailors. This means you can get the most out of your Laser Sailing Dinghy faster !

Beginners Guide to Laser Sailing

Below is some information to start laser sailing and what you should expect when you start.

Click on the links below to see handy tips and tricks to help you:

Tips on learning to sail a dinghy

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What to look for when buying your dinghy

The places to look for a laser dinghy for sale , and the best questions to ask

All the major controls and fittings on a Laser, and what they do

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All the Laser sailing gear and sailboat accessories you need, and much more

Attention All Laser Sailing Newbies & Enthusiasts...

Laser Sailing Tips - helping you get the most out of your Laser dinghy

Enough with the contemplating! The perfect time to uncover the simple steps that will get you sailing has never been closer.

Without the advice shared here, you might find yourself investing more of your valuable time and hard-earned cash than necessary!

If your heart is set on diving into the world of Laser sailing , I have some exciting news for you.

Over nearly three decades, I've been mastering the art of sailing. In recent years, I've started Laser dinghy. Over that time I have spent countless hours learning about laser sailing by:

• talking to other keen sailors,
• reading the best sailing books,
• browsing other great sailing websites, and
• trial and error on the water...

to find the best ways to get up to speed in this great sport.

Here’s the good news… it doesn’t have to be like that for you!

Here at Laser Sailing Tips , we share many of the tips that beginners can use immediately to start the journey into Laser sailing.

Even if you are not a beginner, or if you sail other types of dinghies or even yachts, I am sure that you will be able to pick up some useful tips.

One of the great things about sailing is that there is always more to learn. Whether you are learning the basics of sailing or are at a more advanced level, learning from others is one of the best ways to speed up your knowledge.

And the best part is that this information is available to you FREE !!

So read on, and in no time you will be experiencing what 1000’s of others are experiencing… the enjoyment of sailing a Laser .

To your sailing freedom,

Brendan at LaserSailingTips.com

ps. I'd appreciate any feedback and ideas you may have for this site. Please contact us if you have your own laser sailing tips you'd like included, and we will recognize your contribution as expected.

pps. Send me any questions you have about Laser sailing. I always try to answer all questions.

ppps. I'd love it is you could share this information on Facebook and Twitter. Click on the sharing links on each page to share. The greater our efforts in broadening the reach of Laser sailing, the better :-)

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46 Comments

Hi thank you for the site, it has aleady been really useful. My problem has been severe weather helm as the wind increases and it seems that increasing the downhaul tension should help this, I do have one further question that I was hoping that you could help me with. When we bought the boat it came with what is apparently a slightly shortened centreboard. How much do you think that this could affect the weather helm and could you tell me the correct length of a centreboard so that I can see how by how much it has been shortened. Thank you very much in advance. Paul Kench

Hi Paul Glad that you’ve found the site useful. I don’t think that the shortening of the centreboard a little would cause the weather helm that you mention. Sounds like you are just overpowered. As the wind increases, if you start heeling more, this will naturally tend to point the boat up into the breeze, causing the weather helm. Try flattening out the boat more using the cunningham, outhaul and vang. Hike out hard. This should help keep the boat flatter, reducing the weather helm, and increasing speed. As for the correct length of the centreboard, you may want to check out the current rules . Cheers and all the best! Brendan

Great site. A Really nice read. I’ve a quick question, I found myself in an uncomfortable situation not long ago. I was around 1 mile off shore practicing beats when the tide turned and the wind dropped to nothing (literally nothing). I couldn’t move the boat at all and gently bobbed with the tide drifting out to sea! Fortunately the wind rolled in and I was able to sail back but I spent a good 20mins I panicking! If I’m close to the shore I usually paddle the boat back. Do you know of any techniques to somehow get back in when you’re quite far out (as paddling 1 mile is likely beyond me)?

Hi Mark Thanks for your comments and question. Not a good spot to be in! I thankfully haven’t been out when there is absolutely no wind. Other than paddling I’m not sure what you can do. You can try moving the rudder from side to side which will push the boat forward – not ideal for large distances and probably doesn’t do your gear much good. Other than that, keep an eye out for any puffs of wind on the water that you may be able to use to your advantage, as well as any approaching motor boats and ask for a tow. Maybe some of the other readers have some suggestions?? Let us know if you discover anything more useful. All the best Brendan

Have you thought of strapping a kayak paddle (which can be broken in two) to the mast and using it for paddling home?

Also, if the current is not too strong you can make some progress (I suspect about an mile an hour) by standing on the bow an gunnel bobbing – rocking back and forth. This takes a bit of practice but it is effective.

I always carry a cell phone on board for emergencies. Excuse my English but I use google trasnlate.

Nice tip Fernando!

Takes some balance but take the main sheet in your hand and stand in front of the mast. Rock the boat side to side as much as you are comfortable. More the better. This should get you going a couple of knots once you get comfortable.

If you run out of wind, never paddle. You need to create your own wind by rocking the boat. One way is to stand up with one foot on either side of the deck, heel the boat over by loading up one foot, then roll the boat back by loading up the other foot. This will induce flow over the sail, and you will move forwards. The other, more advanced option, is to tie off the tiller, sheet in the main and quickly run onto the foredeck. Whilst holding the mainsheet in one hand and two hands on the mast, you can flop the mast from side to side with your hands and body and generate good speed. You steer by heeling the boat and using the shape of the hull to turn. Never paddle. It’s a waste of time and energy compared to rocking

Thanks Andrew. Sounds like it’s worth a try. Thankfully I’ve never been in that situation, but will give it a go if / when caught out next time.

What a site. Huge amount of info for one who wants to learn a bit about the boat before buying one. Extremly usefull. Thanks. I’ll be back to learn more!

hi Tiago Thanks for your comments. Glad you like it the site have found it useful. Good luck with your Laser sailing :) cheers Brendan

Hi Brendan thanks for putting together such a great site. I’ve just bought a laser and am very keen to get out there sailing on Sundays at my local sailing club. Thanks to your articles I’m a little more prepared. The laser I bought does not have a turbo kit installed however I notice that most at the club do have them. What is your take on the benefits of a turbo kit at novice level? Col

hi Col Thanks for visiting my site and for your question. You definitely don’t need a turbo kit when you are just starting out. They are quite expensive, so if you are just testing to see whether you will continue with the sport, you can (as you have done) buy a boat without the turbo kit, and always upgrade at a later date. By installing the new blocks, cleats and control lines in the kit, it provides more purchase and easier access to the lines, making adjustment of the vang, cunningham and outhaul easier. This allows more precise tuning, which may give you the competitive edge. Hope this helps. Good luck with your laser sailing journey. All the very best. Brendan

Hi, what is the max speed of a laser? and how easy is it to get it there? Best regards Kresten

Hi Kresten Good question. There’s a lot of talk out there, but as for the maximum recorded speed, one site that I saw claimed it at 16.8 knots (click here ). On a broad reach in good conditions, I thought that would have been pretty reasonable to reach that speed. With some waves, I thought you’d be able to do that pretty easy :)

All of this site is excellent

Thanks Pacman, appreciate your feedback

highly nice post, i absolutely love this web site

Cheers Fred :)

Very interesting subject, appreciate it for putting up.

Thanks Garfield, I’m happy that that you found it useful.

Wow, that’s what I was exploring for, thanks admin of this website.

No problems, roofer. Glad you enjoyed it

I purchased a used Laser Pico and do not think the rigging on the boom is correct. I guess this is the outhaul. I need very clear step by step instructions. The instructions in the manual and on websites goes to fast for me. Are there any videos or step by step instructions just for this part??? Thank you, Seth

Hi Seth. Thanks for your question. I am not familiar with the pico, just the standard Laser, so can’t give you specific advice. If you can’t seem to get the setup right, or find info on YouTube, maybe head down to your local club and ask around. Sailors are generally a friendly and helpful bunch, and I’m sure that there will be plenty of people around that will be able to offer you the specific rigging advice you are after. Best of luck

My query concerns the launching trolley for a Laser Pico – very similar, I think, to the standard Laser trolley. The trolley is designed to support the boat by the gunwales rather than the keel as in trollies for most other types of dinghy. The problem is that the supports have separated so that they are wider apart that the gunwales and if one side is supported, the other support is outside the gunwale. There is no adjustment as it is all welded together. The trolley is otherwise in good condition. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how the supports can be drawn in by about 2-3 inches?

Hi Julian It’s a bit of an unusual problem. Not sure how this could happen. Presuming that the trolley did actually fit the dinghy at some stage, it must have been bent out of shape. Maybe a welder or a fitter and turner could bend it and / or re-weld it so that it would be at the the correct width again for your boat. Not sure if some other readers have seen / experienced this before, and can offer some advice. Hope you get it sorted. cheers Brendan

I just bought 1988 dingy laser. First time sailing in open water I only flipped it 3 times. It rights up well. I weigh 230. Anyway , I paid 1500.00 for laser dingy 4 sails two masts all rigging and dolly… Is this a good deal.?

Hi James. That’s a bit like saying “How long is a piece of string”. For me, it really depends on the condition. If it’s in great condition, with no soft spots in the hull, the spars, sails, foils and ropes are all good, then $1500 is probably pretty good. But if it’s at the other end of the spectrum, and it’s seen much better days, then it may not be such a good deal. There’s a fairly wide range in prices on the market, and a fairly wide range of condition with boats on offer… hence why I put this guide together. Anyway, hope that helps a little. cheers Brendan

do you or any of your readers have experience using a turbo sail on their laser. It is claimed to have 125 ft2 so it is a considerably bigger sail than the standard 76. My question or concern is since I own a laser from the 80’s, can the mast stem, mast, and rigging withstand the added stresses and forces from the larger sail. I love the thought of the additional speed especially with a crew of two but concerned about damage. thanks

Hi Charles I don’t have any experience with the turbo sail. I know that you can have issues with the mast step, so if there’s any extra forces in this area, it may lead to some problems. There’s an interesting discussion here , if you want some further reading. Maybe some of the other readers can help out. Cheers Brendan

Hi, I am 15 and a keen dinghy sailor having grown up into the business. Last year I began single handing in a topaz, sometimes using an asymmetric spinnaker by converting into a topaz race X. I also love to crew: fireball, merlin, cadet, mirror you name it! I am looking at moving out of the topaz and into a laser radial but will only have money from selling my topaz to buy a laser. a) is it a good idea to move into a laser? If not do you have any suggestions of single handers? b) do you think I could find a decent laser for that range? (My topaz is 2 years old, only been sailed for 1 year) Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks

Hi Zoe Thanks for your questions. It’s great to see that you are so keen. Regarding your questions, in my opinion it depends on what you are after. Lasers are very popular, and because they are one-design you can generally find plenty of clubs around where there is quality racing each week. They can be raced right through from beginners up to advanced, so can cater for all abilities. They are not the fastest boat out on the water, but I think it’s the closeness of the racing that attracts so many people to them. Considering how old your topaz is, it should still get a decent price. You won’t be able to get a new laser for the same amount, but you should be able to get something pretty reasonable. There are generally plenty on offer, so just keep your eye out and let people know that you are looking for one, so they can keep an eye out too. By the sounds of it, you should have plenty of contacts at the clubs, so why not ask to take someone’s out for a spin one day so you can judge it for yourself. Also have a look around and see if there is anything else that catches your attention and maybe try them out too so that you can compare. All the best Brendan

Hey, I’m 16 and I weigh 215lbs, would I be competitive, if I were to get Into laser racing? Or is that to heavy to be competitive?

Hi James Yeah, 215 lbs is a bit heavy than most sailing the laser, so especially in the lighter breeze, you might struggle to keep up. If it’s generally quite breezy where you live, it might make it a bit easier for you though. Check out this thread for some more info… click here . Cheers Brendan

I just sailed my used laser for the first time. I noticed that I got a bit of water in the boat (not in the cockpit, but in the hull). I took the drain plug out in the stern of the boat and it drained out. What would cause this?

Hi Mike Thanks for your question. Water getting into the hull would most probably be from cracks. This can happen in a few ways. When your deck and hull gets soft, there can be tiny cracks that can allow water to penetrate. You can also get cracks in and around the mast step, fin case, plus where the deck and hull join together. So when you are buying your laser, always check out the stiffness of the deck. Also, a sign that there may have been repairs in the past is an inspection port. If the repair job was a bit dodgy, the inspection port or the repair job itself may leak a bit. And if you are keen and got some time up your sleeve, you can fill up the mast step and see if the water level drops. This may indicate a leak. Hope this helps a little. cheers Brendan

Hi, This is such a useful site! I was just wondering if there is anything in the laser class rules against painting your boat a different colour than “laser grey”. I have noticed that you see almost no lasers in different colours apart from laser grey. I thought it would be pretty cool to have a laser that has a unique colour but I thought I would just check here in case. Thanks again for the amazing site.

Cheers- Jackson

Hi Jackson Thanks for that… I really appreciate your comments. From what I understand, as long as you don’t make the hull lighter in weight to improve its performance, you should probably be ok. That being said, if you paint it, it will probably add to the weight, so (other than looking cool) it may have a negative effect. There is a bit of a discussion here , so make sure you check it out. All the best Brendan

I just got a 1976 Laser and I’m sure its a little soft and prob had repairs but for a couple of bucks it might help me learn to sail. I have had it out three time and I made it back to the dock all three times. It has also captsized and it rights up pretty easy. I was looking at parts as I need a new hiking strap and saw that plastic bottles for air are sold as a replacement for styrofoam. Looking through the inspection port I do not see anything to aid in floatation. Do I need these bottles? Will the boat sink without them? Thanks for your help.

Hi there No, you shouldn’t need any styrofoam, as the hull should be watertight, meaning that it won’t sink. It’s fairly common for older lasers to take on a bit of water, as they can form small cracks that can let a small amount of water in, but if it’s letting in enough water that you are worried about it sinking, then you might want to investigate further and get the leaks fixed. It might have more substantial cracks around the fin case or mast step. cheers Brendan

Hi, im an italian just land in sydney. i would like to have sometimes a nice sails on a laser. do you know someone who hire them? thank you all Fabio

Hi Fabio Thanks for your message. There are a few places that hire laser dinghies out, but many require you to be a member of the club first. So you may have to ask really nicely… you never know – you might get lucky :) Check out these places:

• Double Bay Sailing Club
• Balmoral Water Sports – As far as Laser dinghies go, I think they only have Laser Picos
• Greenwich Sailing Club

Otherwise just wander down to the local clubs and ask around. Some of the locals may know of somewhere that can help out. If anyone knows of anywhere that rents Lasers, please leave details below. Enjoy your time in Sydney, and I hope that you have a great time out on the harbour. Regards Brendan

Hello I am a new laser sailing. I have had past experience in sailing the opti for the past 6 years. But it seems while I am training with the local race team I am going very slow compared to the other lasers. And im not sure why, we are all in ILCA 6/radial. Do you have any tips for boat handling?

Thanks for your message. It’s great to hear that you’re transitioning from Opti sailing to Laser sailing! The Laser is a great dinghy, but it can be quite different from the Opti in terms of handling and speed. Here are some tips to help improve your handling and performance in a Laser:

• – Body Positioning : Laser sailing requires careful attention to body positioning. Make sure your body is balanced in the boat. Keep your weight centered when sailing upwind, and hike out (lean out over the side of the boat) as much as possible when required to help control the boat’s heel and maximize speed.
• – Sail Trim : Pay close attention to your sail trim. Make sure your sail is set up correctly with the appropriate tension on the vang, downhaul, and outhaul. Adjust the sail shape and trim to match the wind conditions. Generally, you want a flatter sail in strong winds and a fuller sail in lighter winds. Check out the sail setup and angles of trim of other sailors.
• – Tacking and Gybing : Practice your tacks and gybes to minimize the time your boat spends off-course during these maneuvers. Smooth transitions are key to maintaining speed and control.
• – Starts and Mark Roundings : Start line tactics and mark roundings can make a significant difference to your race performance. Study race strategy and practice these situations with your local race team.
• – Fitness and Endurance : Laser sailing is physically demanding. Make sure that you’re in good all-round physical shape and work on your endurance, especially for longer races or windy conditions.
• – Learn from Others : Don’t hesitate to approach experienced Laser sailors in your area and ask for tips or even go out sailing with them. Observing how they handle the boat and their techniques can be really useful. Watch how others start, tack and gybe, as well as their body position and and sail setup.
• – Watch the water : Look for wind gusts and shifts. Try to keep your boat in breeze, so this might mean favoring one side of the course, or tacking before sailing into a lull in the breeze. As you sail into a knock, you might want to tack to get a better sailing angle.
• – Keep Learning : Laser sailing is a continuous learning process. Attend clinics, watch Youtube videos, and read books on Laser sailing to gather more insights and improve your skills. Then practice what you have just learned to better understand it. There are also plenty of resources on this website, so make sure that you check them out.
• – Mental Toughness : Sailing can be mentally challenging. Stay positive, learn from your mistakes, and maintain focus during races.
• – Safety : Always prioritize safety. Wear appropriate gear and be aware of weather conditions and potential hazards on the water.

This is not an exhaustive list, but as you can see, there are a lot of things that you can do to improve your performance. I am sure that others may have some other ideas on things that you can do as well. Remember that Laser sailing is a highly competitive sport, and perfecting the basics and overall improvement takes time and practice. Be patient with yourself, and keep working on your skills. Best of luck with your Laser sailing, and I hope these tips help!

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How to Articles | Bottom Paint Store

Learn more about boat paint applications and marine supplies.

How To Mark Your Waterline for Bottom Paint

The waterline can also refer to anyline on a ship’s hull that is parallel to the water’s surface when the ship is afloat in a normal position. There are many reasons a waterline needs to be marked, it is a new vessel, the old paint has been blasted off for a new finish, or you’ve loaded it up with more stuff the original marking is off. Marking the waterline is often met with dread and getting the correct line for your bottom paint will provide stunning results. Getting it wrong, especially when paired with a boot stripe, will stand out like a sore thumb.

If your boat is new, the waterline should be marked on the designer’s drawing, if that is available. If not, you can take the measurements from a similar boat. If the boat has been in the water, even a few days, there may be some slight staining along the waterline (or just float the boat) that can be marked with a grease marker (best if it is full with fuel). Others have advised to throw sawdust in the water around the boat. Haul the boat and see where the sawdust has stuck to the wet hull.

Fine-line masking tape is ideal for this because it has some stretch and conforms very well to hull shape, especially if the hull has a lot of reverse turns. Don’t press the tape too firmly yet – you may need to peel it back for small adjustments. Once you’re happy with the whole line, press the tape firmly against the hull. Since the boat is already level, all you have to do for the second side is to set the level at the correct height and mark the stern with a piece of tape or transpose the wax crayon mark.

When the boat is aligned athwartships, set up the laser tripod, the exact spot is not critical providing the laser beam can see the whole side of the boat (if you can see it, so can the laser beam). Turn on the laser and adjust the height of the beam until it touches the marks you made at the bow and the stern. If it touches the mark on the bow but the stern is too high, lower the jack-stands at the stern or raise those at the bow—vice versa if the stern is low. Double-check the spirit level in the cockpit to make sure you’re not tilting the boat.

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