catamaran 7m

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• Sailboat Guide

1977 Hirondelle 7M

• Description

Seller's Description

Hirondelle 7M MK II Catamaran For Sale By Owner Location: Matawan, NJ Asking: $11,500 (USD)

S/V Fat Cat is a Atlantic based 1977 Hirondelle 7M catamaran for sale by owner.I did significant work on this rare classic English catamaran before bringing her up the ICW from Savannah to the Chesapeake Bay. There we meandered northward exploring coves and inlets that most boats could not enter. When we reached the top of the Bay we headed through the C&D Canal, down the Delaware Bay, and back inside from Cape May to Manasquan Inlet. There we headed outside up to and around Sandy Hook. I and my crew of 1-2 spent three comfortable months on our 1,000 mile journey. There is 5-8 of headroom in both hulls and sitting headroom in the bridgedeck salon (which converts into a double berth).…

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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Search our catalog, go direct, enter a boat reference, nord catamaran 7m luxury fast fisher, £ 0 sold / unavailable.

• Boat REF#  ·  315462
• Length  ·  7.20m
• Year  ·  2021
• Construction  ·  GRP
• Underwater profile  ·  Multihull
• Sleeping berths  ·  2
• Engine  ·  2 x gasoline 70hp, Suzuki (2018)
• Lying  ·  Ipswich

Boatshed Suffolk

This boat is off the market but here are some boats that are still for sale.

• Specification
• Additional Information

Extra Details

Electrical Systems

12 / 24 volt battery, 240 shore power voltage, 2 batteries charged by: engine, shore power

Construction

Accommodation

1 burner paraffin Stove

Electric windlass (with remote control) 1 anchors (CQR)

Nav Equipment

Safety Equipment

2 bilge pumps (1 manual / 1 electric)

Broker's Comments

This Nord Catamaran 7m is so much more than a fast fisher. Although equipped with everything you would need to go fishing, you would get there a lot faster courtesy of the twin 70hp Suzuki outboards. Once there you can relax in luxury thanks to the extraordinary finish that the current (and only owner) has gone to when fitting her out. As a professional boat builder himself, he has focused on a quality finish as well as features that make being offshore that much more comfortable. Finished only last year, this is a truly exquisite example and for those seriously considering such a boat, this is one to be seen.

These boat details are subject to contract. Note: Offers on the asking price may be considered.

Owners FAQ's

How long have you owned the boat for, why are you selling her.

Not using her enough

Where have you sailed her?

East of England Estuaries (Stour, Deben, Orwell, Blackwater)

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7.2m SERIES   2.55m BEAM   Length 6.9m, 7.2m

Launched in 2009, the 7.2m features all of the inherent design characteristics of the 7.9m series on a more compact scale. In addition to increased buoyancy giving a greater load carrying capability than the 6m series, the 7.2m accommodates larger engines giving top speeds exceeding 40 knots. 

Forward, a deep V deadrise gives an impressively soft ride even at high speeds. With a beam of 2.55m, the 7.2m can be legally road towed on the Continent where stricter towing laws must be adhered to.

News and Deliveries for 7.2m SERIES   2.55m BEAM   Length 6.9m, 7.2m

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CHEETAH AT SOUTHAMPTON INTERNATIONAL BOATSHOW

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Summer Madness

250 Not Out:  A Noble English Innings

Environment Agency Commission first of new 7.2m Series as Fast, Fisheries Patrol Vessel

Gallery entries for 7.2m series   2.55m beam   length 6.9m, 7.2m.

Cheetah’s customer built trailer towing 7.2m

7.2m with stern shoot

Launch of survey 7.2m

Sean tests the winch and trawl aboard ‘Inland Fisheries Ireland’ 7.2m

2014: Angling 7.2m Cheetah

2014: The IFI team testing acoustic mounts during training

2014 delivery: testing the new hauler and midwater trawl

2014 delivery: Inland Fisheries Ireland launch their new 7.2m

Shortened 7.2m on the beach

Liverpool Police Department, Seach and Dive Cheetah

7.2m with long wheelhouse: Underwater search and retrieval

Liverpool Police Department Dive Cheetah

Lowering the gantry for a low bridge in Liverpool’s docks

Phew… through

Aft tow post

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Sushi at the Fishing show in Stellindam, Holland

Sea trials of the 7.2m.

‘Sushi’ on twin axle trailer

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Charter and angling 7.2m based in North West Wales

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8 Best Catamarans That Are 30 Feet or Less

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Large-sized catamarans are appealing due to their ample spacing and comfort. Therefore, a cruising family or couple looking to buy a boat is more likely to go for one of these. But are there small cruising catamarans that provide the performance, comfort, and amenities found in larger boats?  

The best catamarans under 30 feet (9.14 m) include the TomCat 6.2, Cadillac 27and 30, Gemini 30, Endeavour 30, and Maine Cat. These time-tested cruising cats are easy to handle, premium built, and are great for daytime sailing, overnight trips, and some even suitable for long-range sea passages. 

In this article, you’ll find a list of the best cruising catamarans below 30 feet (9.14 m). Keep reading to discover which catamarans make this list, what they have to offer, their pros and cons, and how much they cost.

If you are unsure whether or not 30ft is too small for your needs, then I suggest you check out another article I wrote named Best Size Catamaran , it will discuss why length matters and how it affects safety.

Unlike most catamarans designed for racing purposes, the TomCat 6.2 is a medium-sized cat that’s well-suited to daytime cruising. It boasts high-quality construction, vacuum-bagged hulls, and a plywood-reinforced deck.

This 20 footer (6.09 m) comes with an 11-foot (3.35 m) beam and not only offers you safety and comfort but performance and versatility as well. 

This boat has a centrally placed outboard engine and two rudders that allow it to turn quickly and maneuver confidently into and out of marina slips. The 9.9 hp outboard propels it to speeds of around 8 knots (9.21 mph or 14.8 kph), though the boat has the potential to move faster if desired.

This simpler type of cat (just one engine as an example) also allows for cheaper and easier maintenance. Maintenance costs are something most people underestimate when getting a cat, if you want to get some real numbers from actual sailors then I suggest you read this article (How much does it cost to maintain a cat).

The boat sails with minimal heeling, comfortably accommodate 6-8 people, and you can sail it single-handed or take a crew. 

High and narrow hulls bearing arched bottoms allow for a low wetted surface. The hull design provides low resistance and a great deal of reserved buoyancy and also enables you to drive through closely spaced waves.

On most 20-footers (6.1 m), driving through waves generates a smooth but wet ride, but with the TomCat’s enclosed deck (link to parts names explained here ), you are safe and protected behind a windshield and the high bulwark.

The TomCat makes an excellent cruiser because it performs impressively well both under sail and power. It combines the performance of a modern sailing cat with the comfort, style, and convenience of a powerboat. It’s also trailerable since you can detach the hulls from the deck , winch up the deck on a trailer, and slide the hulls underneath.

But the best part is that it’s easy on the pocket, with the price ranging between $36,750 and $44,580 .

Catalac 30 (9M)

The Catalac brand consists of strongly built vessels that sport thick hulls, glass windows, narrow beams, and vertical transoms . Catalac 30 was the first vessel in this popular British cruising line designed by Tom Lack in the late 60s. The boat’s appeal was attributed to its safety, ample spacing, well-built interior, and load-carrying abilities.

These characteristics are extremely important on a safe catamaran, overloading your cat makes it sit lower in the water, increases drag, reduces handling and speed, there is stuff you should know about this (so that you can make an educated buy). I have created an article where I try to explain the basics of a safe cat ( link here )

Sporting 5 berths, a massive galley, plus a cockpit with a sheltered steering position, the 30-foot (9.1 m) Catalac makes an excellent floating home for a cruising family. It sails exceptionally well, doesn’t heel ( heeling explained here ), and delivers a reasonable motor-sailer level of performance.

Furthermore, the hulls provide adequate headroom, allowing those on board to move around comfortably, and there’s enough space on the deck for sunbathing. 

The Catalac’s structure features solid fiberglass, chined hulls, and a staggered sheerline that allows easy aft access. With a modest rig that’s easy to handle, the Catalac can deliver top speeds of up to 12-14 knots (13.81-16.11 mph / 22.22-25.9 kph) under sail.

Given that the boat’s design focuses more on comfort than speed, this is a spectacular performance.  

Catalac 9M requires a skilled hand when turning into the wind as it is prone to blowing sideways. This is because the boat lacks ballast (which helps in keeping momentum during a tack) but also centerboards ( explained here ).

Skills are always the most essential things to bring aboard and you can acquire them in many ways, my two favorite ways are through NauticEd courses (two free courses here ) or by reading books (my top 15 books here )

Back to the boat! This model came in two versions; the standard layout contained a 30-40hp outboard, while the second option had duo engines. The latter is easier to maneuver into a marina. 

These cats retain their value pretty well. However, they might not be easy to come by since most owners find it challenging to get their hands on a larger boat with similar qualities and performance.

A Catalac 30 (9M) goes for between $33,000 and $55,000.

Catalac 27 (8M)

The Catalac 27 8M is a pocket cruiser that boasts a strong reputation for high quality, durability, and strength. Besides, the boat’s design makes it somewhat suitable for bluewater sailing ( understand why the small size is an offshore problem).

Built like a battleship, the boat contains solid fiberglass hulls. Additionally, it comes with double engines, a large cockpit fitted with cushions all around, and features standing headroom in each hull.

Like the Catalac 9M, this boat comes with two different layouts; a twin inboard diesel engine or an outboard engine. The twin-engine models can motor up to 1000 km (621 miles, read more on cat fuel consumption here ) without needing to refuel, while the 70 amps of charge plus water tanks (70 gallons / 265 liters) make these vessels remarkable coastal cruisers. 

Catalacs equipped with outboard engines sail faster since you can raise the engine during sailing and are also lighter. This helps to minimize drag . Catalac 8M sports a short but thick mast that helps make the boat stable. 

Though small in size, this catamaran packs a lot of features in its small frame. It has a full-sized berth, a large galley that’s almost 8 feet (2.4 m) long, a quarter berth, head, and navigation station.

What’s more, the cockpit is as large as that of a 38 to 40-foot (11.5 to 12.1 m) cat.

Catalac 27 costs about $31,836.

The Endeavour 30 

The Endeavour 30 catamaran is a boat characterized by stability, ample deck space, and a spacious interior. It boasts fast cruising speeds under both sail and power.

The boat has mini keels and rudders plus symmetrical hulls separated by a hydra-cell. The latter is a center section with a characteristic V-shape. 

The boat’s vacuum-bagged construction helps enhance strength and stiffness while reducing weight. Furthermore, the interior has a fiberglass mold, providing extra strength and rigidity. With sufficient breeze, this vessel can deliver reasonable off-the-wind and doable upwind speeds.

As such, you can expect to attain speeds of about ~10 knots (11.51 mph or 18.5 kph) on power reaches. Below is a video showing a panoramic tour of the Endeavour 30:

This vessel has the internal capacity of a 40-foot (12.1 m) monohull. And you can tell this from the unique layout merging the cabin and cockpit with wide doors to the numerous features packed into this 30-foot (9.14 m) vessel.

It has a spacious salon, an enormous galley, two queen berth staterooms with plenty of storage space, a head with separate showers, and a sizable U-shaped dinette. 

You can get this boat for under $50,000 .

The Geminis by Tony Smith were the United States’s first production cruising cats. Today, these vessels remain the most appealing American-built cruising catamarans. Built between 1981 and 1990, the Gemini 30 does not have a contemporary design, but it works remarkably well for cruisers desiring generous living space in a small affordable sailboat.

At only 14 feet (4.2 m) across, Gemini cats are somewhat narrow. But this mean s they can easily fit into most of the regular marina berths.

Besides, the boats still contain enough interior space for a queen-size double berth and two smaller doubles housed in separate guest rooms.

There’s also a modest but serviceable saloon with duo settees and a collapsible table that can transform into an additional double berth.

For the Gemini 30, this translates to a cruising cat with standing headroom that can comfortably accommodate 3 couples in private cabins or a family with small children. A good-sized galley, a spacious head with a shower, nav desk, and a large comfy cockpit make up the Gemini 30’s cruising palace.

Catamaran layout is highly personal and if you want to learn more about different characteristics then I suggest you read my article Designing the perfect catamaran layout ( Link )

While not that fast, the Gemini 30 will easily outsail the Endeavor 30 discussed above. Its daggerboards (which are explained in detail here ) can point well, and if you keep it light, it can do 7-8 knots (12.9-14.8 km/hr) under sail.

Besides, raising the daggerboards reduces the wetted surface area, and increases the speed downwind.

The Gemini 30 tends to pound and hobbyhorse a little when sailing in choppy waters – particularly when overloaded (more on load carrying capabilities in this article ), but the deep pivoting daggerboards provide stability and lift underwater.

Furthermore, the Gemini’s retractable rudders enable it to venture into shallow waters.

This is a very popular cruising cat that’ll give you a lot of bang for your bucks.

You can find a Gemini for less than $65,000.

Maine Cat 30 

The Maine Cat 30 combines premium quality construction materials with the most advanced building techniques to create a lightweight vessel capable of handling most offshore conditions. What’s more, this boat can remain trouble-free for years on end with little effort.

If you are in the market for a simple liveaboard cruiser that you can use for a short weekend getaway or a cruising voyage, this is it.

The boat has a sizable primary stateroom berth with ample overhead space and a dresser fitted with a hanging storage cabinet. The enormous head includes a toilet, sink, 20-gallon (75.71 L) holding tank, vanity, and a pressurized shower.

Covering the open bridgedeck is a permanent hardtop. This spacious bridgedeck can hold quite a crowd and comes with a convertible dinette that turns into an extra berth. If need be, you can even enclose the entire space using acrylic windows or screens. Gabo

The 360-degree visibility from the cockpit allows the captain plus the crew a panoramic view, and all sail controls go back to the cockpit, which is very useful if wanting to sail single-handedly.

I believe that most boats should be set up in this way since sooner or later you might be in a situation where there is only one person to handle the controls, such as in an emergency. But more on that in another article ( Link ).

The Maine Cat 30 is a classic boat that delivers on high-performance multihull sailing. Designed to offer much better performance than catamarans bearing tall and heavy bridge decks, this cat weighs less and suffers less windage thanks to the acrylic windows.

The boat’s interior layout allows for easy cleaning as surfaces sport a smooth gel coat and satin-finished cherry trim. The solid but lightweight furniture bears the same Core-Cell foam core employed on the hull, deck, and hardtop. Plus, there’s ample storage for all your sailing equipment, cleaning supplies, and provisions.

A Maine Cat 30 can cost up to $110,000.

Heavenly Twins 27

The overall design of this well-equipped catamaran makes it a superb pocket cruiser.

Heavenly Twins 27 manages to fit not one but two coachroofs on hulls that are only 27 feet (8.20 m) long. Canoe sterns and a central cockpit separating the duo coachroofs form the boat’s other prominent features. 

Famous for their excellent build quality, medium-depth draft, and narrow beams, Heavenly Twins 27 appeals to a wide range of boating enthusiasts.

These include solo sailors, weekend sailors, cruising families, circumnavigators, beginner sailors, and experienced liveaboards such as this famous Youtube channel “Kittiwake”.

The vessels house double cabins in the hulls while the forward starboard contains the heads and, to port, the galley. You can easily access the bar from the well-protected cockpit while the Comfordesk accommodation converts into a double dock. 

A stoop through allows access from below-deck to the aft compartment without going through the cockpit. There’s ample storage space throughout the boat, plus you can section off the large stateroom into smaller double compartments if desired.

The price range for this boat is $ 20,098 to $24,193. (I believe that kittiwake is for sale too)

The last cruising catamaran on my list is the Aquilon 26 . This French-built cruising vessel is light in weight and trailerable, which means you can disassemble it in a few hours or transport it as-is.

Designing a boat that is possible to disassemble usually means that it is structurally less strong, which by no means is a problem during coastal sailing but the Aquilon 26 is mostly attractive to sailors who prefer inland lake sailing. It’s also suitable for beginner sailors.

Although there are no real “beginner cats” there are specs to consider if you are a beginner with catamarans, most of them I have listed in another article ( here ). Gabo

This 26-footer (7.92 m) has the potential for good speed though its layout is anything but conventional- which forms part of its appeal.

The cockpit works as the saloon, and a full bimini protects the crew from lousy weather. The starboard hull contains a dinette and galley, and the port has a double berth stateroom. The windows are quite unusual, but they provide lots of light, remarkably enhancing interior visibility.

Aquilon 26 can deliver an average cruising speed of 10knots (11.51 mph or 18.5 kph).

On a beam reach, you can expect around 25 knots (28.77 mph or 46.3 kph) with an adequate breeze ( I have never sailed at 25knots but researching this boat supposedly it is possible).

You can get this boat for under $50,000.

What Makes Small Cruising Cats Attractive?

Small cruising cats are ideal for sailing along the coast. But that’s not all. Under capable hands, properly fitted smaller cats can also deliver spectacular offshore passages similar to their larger counterpart (Heres a list of full-sized bluewater cats).

They can operate over long cruise ranges, cross oceans , and circumnavigate the globe . Smaller cats are also suitable for day sailing, overnight trips, and coastal or inland voyages. 

For most sailors, comfort on board is crucial, so they’ll look for a vessel that guarantees a comfortable cruising experience. The good thing is that smaller vessels provide almost the same qualities and amenities that bigger vessels offer. Plus, you can do quite a bit with the available space, especially if it’s well laid out.  

You’ll find that most 30-footer (9.14 m) or more miniature cruising cats comprise a galley, head, bunks, navigation and entertainment electronics, and refrigeration.

Sailors usually talk about these benefits of smaller cats:

• They’re less expensive. Large boats are costly to buy. They also cost more to hire, maintain, and dock. You can buy a small-sized boat at a much lower price, and parts tend to cost less too. Besides, you get to use smaller sails, winches, and lighter lines than those applicable on a larger boat. And since marine services such as moorings and haul-outs get billed via boat length, a smaller cat makes sailing more affordable.
• They boast superior builds. Most cruising boats under 30 feet (9.14 m) feature designs that are 30+ years old. In those days, weather forecasts were hard to come by and not as accurate, so boat builders used hulls with thicker fiberglass than the type found in today’s builds. Furthermore, everything in the boat, including rigs, rudders, hulls, keels and decks, was designed to withstand strong winds and high waves. 
• They have simpler systems. This means less time spent fixing and maintaining your boat. For instance, most small cruising cats often lack water-makers, hot water systems, or electric anchor windlasses. 
• They’re easier to handle. Smaller cats are simpler to sail than larger cats. It’s also easier to sail one single-handed or with a small crew.

What is the largest cat on person can sail?

The Disadvantages of Smaller Cruising Cats

Below are some of the most discussed downsides of small cats:

• They have limited living space, storage, and amenities.
• Though they don’t heel much, they are less comfortable than larger boats since they get tossed around much more easily in big ocean swells.
• It’s not easy to accommodate crew for extended periods; hence there are fewer hands to share work.
• They are slower and take longer to get to their destination.

Though fewer are on the cruising trails than their larger counterparts, small catamarans make ideal cruisers because they are simple, seaworthy, and pocket-friendly.

When choosing the best cat for your needs, focus on quality rather than size. A well-planned 30-footer (9.14 m) is reliable and provides ample space for your accommodation, dining, and relaxation, plus a storage room for provisions and any spare parts you might need. 

And if you want even more info than I have presented to you in this article I would recommend a book from Serj, he makes it easy to understand why size matters and how to find a cat suited for your needs (amazon link )

Owner of CatamaranFreedom.com. A minimalist that has lived in a caravan in Sweden, 35ft Monohull in the Bahamas, and right now in his self-built Van. He just started the next adventure, to circumnavigate the world on a Catamaran!

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The seventy 7, an architectural challenge.

“Cruising, life on board, is a succession of moments spent in the company of the people we love.  We have imagined what these moments might be, in function with various scenarios:  cruising with family, with friends, chartering....  But also, how to evolve with the presence of the crew, as might be required by such a yacht.”  VPLP Design & Marc Van Peteghem – Naval Architect

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REINVENTED SPACE

Elegant and refined, the open spaces are truly a treasure.  Exterior spaces offer new perspectives, in perfect harmony with interior living spaces.  This fluid layout enables you to fully appreciate the dimensions of living spaces and to enjoy total freedom of movement, in continuous connection with nature.

CREATE YOUR OWN SEVENTY 7

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Specifications

• Length overall 23,25 m / 76’3’’
• Beam overall 11 m / 36'1''
• Water draft 1,90 m / 6'3''
• Air draft 36,60 m / 120'1''
• Light displacement (EEC) 61.66 t | 135,937 Lbs
• Sails area upwind 335 m² / 3,609 sq.ft
• Square top mainsail (optional.) 205 m² / 2,206 sq.ft
• Genoa on roller furler 130 m² / 1,399 sq.ft.
• Staysail (optional) 68 m² / 732 sq.ft
• Asymetrical spinnaker (opt.) 448 m² / 4,820 sq.ft
• Code 0 (opt.) 210 m² / 2,260 sq.ft
• Motorisation - standard 2 x 1,400 l / 2 x 370 US gal
• Fuel tank capacity 2,800 l / 740 US Gal
• Water tank capacity 1,600 l / 423 US Gal
• No. of berths From 8 to 16
• CE approval A : 14 - B : 18 - C : 24 - D : 40

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need advice - comfortable 7m water taxi design

Discussion in ' Boat Design ' started by nuwanda324 , Apr 3, 2015 .

nuwanda324 Junior Member

edit: I realize that my question down below is unnecessarily complicated. So i will write a simple one. I am designin a high speed vessel which must be good at seakeeping. Which hull type i should use? My limitations Length: 7m (it can be longer but not shorter for interior design) beam: 2,5m (it canbe wider but not narrow for interior design) speed: 25-30 knot (But there is a speed limit some of the areas which is 15 knot. So ship must behave good in 15 knot also) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hello I am a ship engineering student. I am designing a seataxi for finishing project. But i couldn't decide which hull i should choose. So i want to ask you. My priorty is seaakeeping. I want to design comfortable taxi. 7m long and 3m breath is enough for my interior design. There is a 15 knot speed limit for my taxi. But it must provide 25-30 knot speed when it is needed. I cannot design for one design speed. My taxi should have good seakeeping in both 15 knot and 25-30 knot. First i tought to design a submerged hydrofoil boat, because hydrofil provide best seakeeping behaviour. But becasue of speed limit i cannot use hydrofoil. So i thought about choosing monhull. But seakeeping of monohull just not good enough. And then i realize length of my boat is too low and that leads to pitching. So for better seakeeping i must increase length. But increasing length leeads ttoo much resistance. I can solve roll problem by using catamaran but i can't solve pitching without increasing length. So i decide to use trimaran for just increasing length. I talk about it with my friends about using trimaran for decreasing pitching but they said that would be unreasonable and cause unnecessary weight increasing. So i am asking advice from you. I want to design a boat which have good seakeeping behaviour. I need at least 7m length, 3m width and 15-30 knot speed. Which hull i should choose? And what do you think about trimaran. Wave height is about 0,8-1,2 m. Sorry for long post and bad english. I am uploading the drawing for the idea about trimaran. https://drive.google.com/folderview...QtRnI2LXZHNXpPbThnVTNNd1BQeWxHSnM&usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/folderview...QtRnI2LXZHNXpPbThnVTNNd1BQeWxHSnM&usp=sharing  

Attached Files:

Untitled.3dm.

PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

Welcome to the forum. Why do you think a 23' monohull wouldn't offer good "seakeeping"?  

In same wave height, longer vessel is going to effect less vertical accelleration. Because time between when top of the wave is hitting to the front of vessel and aft of the vessel is increasing with length. So if we increase length, period of pitching will increase and accelleration will decrease. Am i wrong? I saw small vessels are affecting too much from waves.  

If you SOR is this flexible, so will the results and possible design direction choices.  

WindRaf Senior Member

http://www.akesdesign.it/Akes27.htm  

Mr Efficiency Senior Member

How many passengers ? 7 metres is small for a commercial water taxi. Presumably it has to meet stringent rules of the jurisdiction it would operate in, which would include passenger capacity limitations. But you are hard pressed if the 15 knots is mandatory, as many boats that would be comfortable at 25-30 knots in choppy conditions, are marginal at that speed (15), planing cats are a popular choice for water taxi service, but 15 knots is an awkward speed for them. A monohull that can happily cruise at 15 knots, will likely not ride well at the higher speeds, especially in disturbed water.  

My taxi sould be able to take 12(maximum) passenger. Length must be below 15m. 7m length is enough for interior design. If i choose catamaran i think 8-9 m is enough for lwl. If i choose monohull 10-11 m will be enough. About the speed thats what i was trying to say. Vessel must have good seakeeping behaviour in 15 knot also 25-30 knot. If i choose a planning vessel or hydrofoil 15 knot is not enough and awkward. If i choose monohull like this one then it will not have good enough seakeeping behaviour in disturbed water in high speed. And using catamaran doesnt solve pitching problem in disturbed water. I need a design that will provide good seakeeping in 15 kn and also 30 kn.  

WindRaf said: ↑ http://www.akesdesign.it/Akes27.htm Click to expand...

Last night i tried to compare couple of high speed vessel type by using maxsurf. Using catamaran significantly decreasing rolling accelleration. But increasing resistance. And not doing any significant effect on pitching. So using cat doesnt solve pitching. If you want i can upload my models and results. I used maxsurf sample forms.  

What is a 7-metre boat expected to do, instead of pitching, traversing a one-metre chop ? I have never seen a boat that size that really handles the close-spaced nasty chop 100%, it is just a matter of what passengers will accept in degree of bumpiness. Here's a 7 metre water taxi catamaran, and they ride about as good as anything you'll find in the size range, but 15 knots is too slow, it will not plane properly at all at that speed........hopefully this link will work. http://www.yachtandboat.com.au/classifieds/ad/22997/shark-cat-noosa-cat-commercial-boats-nsw  

your ideas are very confused: there is a big conceptual difference, for your indicating speed, in the geometry* between a boat of 7 meters long and another 12 - 15 meters long.  

This is a SOR problem, define your needs more precisely, so you don't have to ask a full plane design to putter along at semi displacement speeds or attempt to ask a semi displacement hull, to max out at near full plane. You'll also need to refine the sea state conditions you'll be operating in. Wind strengths are helpful, but the general local conditions can be considerably different than what might be typical for a force 4 (as an example) condition suggest it should be. Sea keeping ability is more a function of the skipper and crew, not necessarily the hull form. Given sufficient freeboard and available power, you can take a less suited craft into areas others wouldn't consider. Passenger comfort is a difficult thing to quantify, particularly in small craft. It's subjective in nature and you're not going to get any great improvements, between hull forms in the lengths you assigned, in some sea state conditions. Simply put, you can develop one hull form type that does well in some conditions, yet truly sucks in others. In other words, you're not going to find a hull form that handles all conditions exceptionally well, so pick the general sea state you'll be in and work around this. Once this decision is made, adjust the hull form for the anticipated direction the sea state might get on occasion. This might mean adding some freeboard for those occasions she'll encounter short steep chop or possibly adding length, to help bridge typical wave train lengths for a smoother ride, etc.  

OK, so it has "stretched" from 7m, to 11 or 12m. I hope the budget has that kind of flexibility ! First thing to determine is what the minimum size vessel would be under that jurisdiction, to carry your desired number of passengers. But getting a boat that will perform well at 15 knots, but also at 30, is still a difficult problem.  

I decide to work on wave-piercing catamaran. I will regularly upload my design progress on this thread. Thank you for your interest.  

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Multihull 'Waves piercing' are very sensitive to changes in weight; to safely transport 7 people you will need to do it very big. And this is one reason that they do not have successfully.  

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Catamaran Construction – Hulls, Laminates, and Composites

• Post author By BJ Porter
• Post date October 15, 2020
• 4 Comments on Catamaran Construction – Hulls, Laminates, and Composites

It’s a given that catamarans are more sensitive to weight and loading than monohulls. Catamaran builders strive to build the lightest boats they can without sacrificing strength and stiffness, and have adapted new building techniques and materials to meet this target. Cutting weight allows more passengers and gear without sacrificing performance.

And the marketing materials reflect it–they load every review and website with polysyllabic technical jargon describing the design and production choices each builder made to deliver the best boat they can.

But when you’re reading a brochure and you come across phrases like “ hand laid bidirectional GRP ” or “ vacuumed bagged e-glass with vinylester resin over a Divinycell core ” do you know what that really means?

All modern production catamarans are made with “FRP” construction (for Fiber Reinforced Polymer). Composites aren’t new–it’s just using materials together to strengthen the whole assembly. Straw was added to bricks centuries ago, and steel reinforced concrete is a staple of construction over the last century. For boats, it’s the use of stranded fibers and cured resins which make FRP different.

The term “FRP” doesn’t get into the technical detail of which fibers and which plastics, and how they’re put together to build your hull. There’s a wide variety of fiber types which can be stranded, woven, chopped or sprayed in a varied of patterns then combined with several types of resins to make hulls with different characteristics.

Some FRP techniques produce lighter, stronger shapes, while others are quicker to build and less expensive to produce. The choice of technique is a function of many factors, from the number of hulls and parts to be built, the type of parts, the budget for the project, and many design specific requirements for weight and strength.

1. FRP Basics

The principle behind all FRP construction is the same – you lay our fibers in the shape you need, then saturate them with resin, removing all the air and voids you can. Resin is left to cure, then the piece is ready to finish and use.

The reality is more complex, since building a boat isn’t like making a flat board or a simple door. You’ve got a complex shape with a designed set of curves to build. “Tooling” is the set of shapes to make the boat parts; molds to cover with fiberglass to get the right shapes.

That’s what makes FRP so effective – you can make almost anything out of it. But to do so requires a lot of choices about what you need for the project at hand.

There isn’t a “best” all around material or technique choice for all jobs, and sometimes a lower cost technique or easier to work with material may be the better solution to the problem.

A. Fiber types

Fiber choices in the last few decades have expanded past the glass fibers used in the first mass produced boats in the 1960s. FRP construction wasn’t new even then, they built the first composite boats using modern fiberglass in the 1940s.

The major fibers used in marine construction fall into three categories – glass, aramids, and carbon. The primary differences are in the strength to weight ratios of the fibers, durability, elasticity, and cost. Some construction may use blends of fiber types to combine performance characteristics.

Glass – the most common material still, because of its low cost and versatility. The most common variety used in GRP (Glass Reinforced Polymer) is “E-glass” which refers to its strand size and mineral content. Other grades have different and sometimes better mechanical properties, but may be more expensive and less appropriate for boat building use. Fiber sizes run 10 to 25 microns for E-glass, though other grades may be smaller.

Brands like Leopard, Lagoon, and most higher production volume builders use E-glass.

Aramids – this includes brand names like Kevlar, Technora and Twaron. They have higher tensile strength than E-glass, and resistant abrasion and punctures. Kevlar is a common choice for bullet proof body armor, and can built a tough, lightweight hull. The materials can be difficult to work with, as it is very tough to cut the cloth. It is often blended with carbon fiber or other materials – Catana is known for using Twaron blends in hull construction.

Carbon – the ultimate in lightweight, strong construction material. Carbon fiber is the most expensive fiber, and is available in a variety of weights, grades and strengths. Fibers are smaller than glass – down to 5 Micron.

The lightest, most expensive hulls are made from carbon, but a catamaran builder may use carbon in places other than the hull to add strength and stiffness. Carbon boards, rudders, and reinforcing structures can enhance performance without driving the price of the boat beyond reach. Carbon is the fiber of choice for many custom builds, racing cats, and Gunboat.

B. Mats, Strands, Roving, Direction, and Weights

Fibers are woven into matting and cloth for construction. Depending on the application, different weights of cloth and cloth patterns and weaves may be more appropriate for the job.

Cloth weight refers to the weight per square yard (or meter) of the cloth. A square yard of nine ounce cloth weighs nine ounces. The heavier the cloth, the stronger it is in a laminate.

Fibers carry loads along their length, so cloth weaves have directionality to their strength. Most builders use several layers of cloth with different orientations to give good universal strength to hulls. Specific FRP applications with strict load-path requirements may have more unidirectional fiber layering – for example, a chainplate manufactured from carbon fiber may use unidirectional fiber.

Cloth – fiberglass cloth is commonly used on outer layers of composites. Cloth may have unidirectional or bidirectional strength. Bidirectional cloths have maximum load strengths in two perpendicular directions. Variations on weaves like a modified twill allow a more flexible cloth for better shaping around complex molds.

Mat – is omnidirectional strands of fiber compressed into a cloth. This is often held together with a resin soluble glue, which makes mat great at conforming to mold shapes without folding and bunching as it collapses when wetted. Because the strands do not align, fiber strength is the same in all directions.

Woven Roving – a heavier cloth made from larger bundles of strands. Woven roving allows for quicker buildup of material and strand weight.

Most FRP layups include multiple layers of different cloth and mat. Finished layers may be finer cloth over courser cloth, over woven roving and mat.

Three primary resins are in common use in marine construction – polyester , vinylester , and epoxy . All resins have materials safety concerns and require care in their use and handling.

Polyester is the least expensive and requires breathing protection because of the VOC emission (Volatile Organic Compounds…nasty, smelly fumes). It doesn’t have good bonding/gluing capability, and should only be used with glass fibers for structural building. Some polyester resins are referred to as “isophthalic” resins.

Vinylester is chemically similar to a hybrid of polyester and epoxy, and performs best with fiberglass. It shouldn’t be used in high strength applications with carbon or aramid fibers. It has some adhesive qualities which polyester lacks, it shrinks less during curing, and has better impact resistance.

The added strength of vinylester coupled with increased water resistance makes it an attractive option for many catamaran builders. It costs less than epoxy, but still has better performance than polyester.

Epoxy is the most expensive, but is three times the strength of the others. It offers the best adhesion and the only resin for building structural elements with carbon and aramid. It resists water intrusion better than the other resins, resists blisters, emits no VOCs, and shrinks less. The major drawback is it is more brittle if it takes an impact.

While epoxy is “the best” in terms of strength and ease of building, there are many applications where other resins are appropriate. Budget is a big driver – a boat made from E-Glass doesn’t need epoxy resin, and considerable cost savings to meet a construction price target may drive the choice.

They can build quality boats from all material combinations, but price and performance will drive materials choices to keep some boats more affordable.

2. Cored Construction

What’s the best way to make fiberglass strong? To a point, you can make it thicker. As it gets thicker, it gets heavier. A hollow shape can take more compressive load than a solid one of the same weight, and the same principle applies to fiberglass construction.

Consider an I-Beam used in building construction. It has the same strength (or more) as a solid rectangular beam of similar mass. The compressive load on the beam is supported by the outside edges of the material, the metal in the middle doesn’t contribute much to the strength. So we can remove metal to get the “I” shape while still keeping those sides rigid, making a lighter girder with less material.

The same principle applies to cored construction with fiberglass. Making a sandwich of two layers of fiberglass with a light core between them allows for the greater strength with weight savings.

There are drawbacks – the biggest risk is damage which breaks the skin, which can let water into the core. Earlier cored construction used materials prone to saturation and rot if they got wet. Some builders opt to do cored construction above the waterline and solid below to minimize some of these risks.

But the advantages in weight savings and increased stiffness offset the drawbacks, and there may be a few other side effects like sound and temperature insulation. Like resins and fibers, core materials offer distinct advantages, disadvantages and price points.

Most builders have adopted a hybrid approach, building solid hulls below the waterline, and cored hulls and decks above. This gives a balance of weight and safety.

A. Balsa Core

Balsa is light and inexpensive. The first cored construction used balsa, but it has the disadvantage of being wood. As a natural material, if it gets wet it can rot and break down. Builders use “end grain” balsa – shorter cross cut sections – to prevent wicking of water if there is an intrusion.

B. Foam Core

Closed cell foam cores give good strength to weight savings while minimizing water intrusion. If you get water in the core, it won’t spread very far. Divinycell is a popular PVC foam core, though there are several choices with different densities and compressive strengths.

Some foam cores are not suitable for heat treatment, but infused or vacuum bagged boats like the Outremer and PDQ do well with it.

C. Honeycomb

Honeycomb cores are often the most expensive, but also give some of the best strength to weight ratios. Honeycombed cells made from resin cured aramid papers are some of the best, but also among the most costly. They offer good stiffness, but can be hard to shape. Aluminum and other resin-infused papers are other core materials builders can choose from.

3. Construction and Resin

When building a hull, there are optimal ratios of fiber to resin saturation for target strength and weight. Too little resin and you may not have enough strength (or worse, voids and gaps), and too much, and you’re just adding weight without adding strength. Resins are also a significant material cost in building the boat, so over application not only increases weight but adds cost.

There are many ways to assemble the cores, fibers and resins to build a finished laminate hull – we’re addressing the most common in boat building. Each approach has strengths and limitations, and an impact on the bottom-line cost to build the boat. Any voids or air pockets in the laminate can be disastrous; these techniques have been developed to increase saturation and reduce the risk of voids.

A. Hand Layup / Open Molding

As the name implies, this is the application of resin by hand to cloth as it’s laid into a mold. Wetting is done with a brush, and the laminate is rolled out to remove any air pockets and voids. This is the simplest way to lay up fiberglass, but also the least precise and consistent and will use the most resin.

Skilled craftsmen have built some of the finest vessels in the world this way. Though it’s more popular with monohulls, which are less sensitive to weight, many catamarans built with hand layups on open molds are still out cruising and performing well.

B. Spraying

Using chopped-strand fiber mixed with resin, a “chopper gun” can spray the mixture into a mold to lay down the composite. A consistent thickness can be difficult, but this is a low cost construction technique which makes a very resin-rich laminate. Using sprayed fibers gives lower strength in all directions compared to meticulously laid down mat and bi-directional cloth. But it is a quick technique popular with mass produced, smaller boats.

It is an excellent technique for parts with complex geometry where weight is not an issue, but you will not see it often in catamaran construction. It’s heavy with resin without any resultant increase in strength.

C. Vacuum Bagging (Wet layup)

When an open molded component has been laid up and wetted with resin, vacuum bagging takes the process a step further. After the wetting is complete, air tight plastic bagging is secured around the wetted area, and the air is pumped out of the bag. The vacuum pulls excess resin out and collapses air pockets.

The goal is to get thorough wetting and produce as strong a laminate as possible without excess resin. Knysa and Leopard are two builders that use vacuum bagging on their hulls to reduce weight.

D. Resin Infusion

For resin infusion the cloth, matting and core is laid in place dry, then sealed in an air-tight bag. A vacuum pump attaches to one side of the bag, and on the other a feed for resin. The vacuum sucks the air out of the dry cloth stack, then pulls the resin through the stack, infusing and wetting it.

Resin infusion, when done right, gives the lightest, strongest laminates with no voids and the minimum resin weight for maximum strength. SCRIMP is a variant of the resin infusion process used by some builders, including TPI which build many early Lagoon cats.

E. Pre-preg

Using pre-preg (for “Pre Impregnated”) cloth for your laminating gets rid of the resin bucket. They manufacture cloth with a partially catalyzed resin pressed into it, then it’s chilled or frozen to stop the curing process. There is no need for seperately mixed resins, and there’s no worry your resin might “go off” and harden before you’re done wetting the cloth. Instead, the cloth is assembled, vacuumed, then heated to kick off the curing process.

There are both advantages and disadvantages to using pre-preg for your laminate work. The big disadvantage is the cost; it is most expensive material to use. You also need to chill and store the cloth until you need it, though some can be at room temperature for a couple of weeks without kicking off. And you need an oven which requires some clever tricks if you’re building a forty or fifty foot boat.

But the strength to weight ratio will always be perfect. High tech honeycomb cores are best suited to pre-preg lamination, and without racing against resin cure times, you can ensure perfect cloth placement and precise layout in the build process.

The primary use for pre-preg in boating is high performance race boats. With catamarans, pre-preg may be used high load parts, like Gunboat does for foils and rudders.

4. Industry Examples

Across the catamaran building industry you’ll find almost all the above techniques and materials used, though some are less common. You aren’t likely to find chopped strand sprayed layups in ocean going cats, and hand layups can lead to heavier hulls than weight sensitive catamaran designers prefer. Most manufacturers have moved to vacuum bagging or resin infusion, with a few of the highest end boats using pre-preg for key components.

Built by Robertson & Caine in South Africa, the hull material is vacuum bagged, end-grain balsa-cored E-glass with polyester.

Hand laid, bagged vinylester over an Airex foam core in the hulls.

Earlier Prout catamarans like the Snowgoose 34 featured hand laid solid FRP hulls and decks. Over time they switched to foam or balsa cores for decks and above the waterline.

Older PDQ boats were made from vacuum bagged vinylester – solid below the waterline and cored with CoreCell foam above the waterline and in decks. Newer PDQ models switched to epoxy resin.

All glass is vacuum bagged. Below the waterline is solid E-glass and vinylester. The rest is unidirectional, bidirectional, and triaxial cloths over a Nida-Core polypropylene honeycomb core with isophthalic and vinylester resins.

The Gemini cats are built with a solid hand layup of woven roving and fiberglass mat and polyester resin. Decks are cored with end grain balsa. The Gemini 3200 introduced vinylester resin into the layup to prevent blistering.

Older Lagoons were SCRIMP infused vinylester with and end grain balsa core above the waterline and in the decks.

Newer Lagoon catamarans use polyester and vinylester resins, also infused with balsa cores above the waterline and solid below.

With a carbon fiber inner skin, Catana also uses Twaron aramid fibers in the sandwiched hull over a foam core.

Fontaine Pajot

Primary hull construction is resin-infused vinylester with a balsa cored hull and deck.

Beneath the waterline, Outremer uses a single layer, solid vinylester laminate for safety. The hulls and deck are vinylester with a Divinycell foam core. They stiffen certain components with carbon for rigidity and durability.

Gunboat hulls are epoxy infused carbon fiber with a Nomex honeycomb core. They build dagger boards and other high load components with pre-preg carbon.

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By BJ Porter

Owner of Hallberg Rassy 53; world explorer.

4 replies on “Catamaran Construction – Hulls, Laminates, and Composites”

Excelent. Thank you for this I learned allot. Johan

Very straight forward information. Thankyou for doing this.

Damn…What an Amazingly Informative Article. *Cheers*

Outremer publish on their website that they use polyester. Not vinyl ester as you have stated.

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