types of yacht anchors

5 Boat Anchor Types Explained (With Pictures)

I myself lost an anchor while out on the lake. It had been an accident, but we were prepared. I was so incredibly thankful we had a spare!

This article will break down the different types of anchors, their uses, and which will work best for your specific needs!

Table of Contents

1) Fluke Anchors

Let’s start with the basics!

The most common anchor used is the Fluke anchor. It is also referred to as a Danforth anchor or a Lightweight anchor.

Fluke anchors have high holding abilities attributed to their wide and flat flukes, commonly made from strong steel.

The Fluke anchors can firmly keep your boat in place. When the flukes at the end of the anchor dig themselves into the bottom with a sand bed, it uses the slight pulling forces of the boat itself to keep it in place.

This anchor type is often the anchor type used for smaller boats. As the name suggests, it is lightweight and easy to handle.

This anchor also stows flat, making it incredibly easy to store. This is important for smaller boats that may not come with high amounts of storage space.

Storage of your anchor, when not in use, is recommended. This is true for all anchor types. They are often sharp and painful when accidentally kicked or stepped on. They can also slide around if not stored properly, which could cause injury or loss of the anchor.

This is often the “go-to” anchor because you can use a lighter anchor for your boat than the weight you would need for other anchor types.

Choosing the proper Fluke anchor is dependent on the length of your particular boat. Fluke anchor weight can range from 4 pounds to 44 pounds or more.

Recommended Weight of FLUKE Anchors per Boat Length:

Some of the boat lengths that are listed above can be compatible with more than one size.

If your boat is on the heavier side or planning to anchor in more aggressive water, you will want to consider using a heavier option.

2) Plow Anchors

Another prevalent anchor type is the Plow anchor. You can tell it is a plow anchor because it will look like a large shovel or scoop.  The original maker of these anchors called them a CQR. A more modern option is called a wing anchor, like the Delta.

The Plow anchor has strong holding power in more types of bottom conditions than the Fluke anchor.

This anchor is also used on larger boats. They are more forgiving when the wind changes direction so that they re-set more easily.

This anchor can be more difficult to store than the Fluke anchor, but special chocks are available to mount them deck.  They also often fit well on bowsprit anchor rollers.  This is why some people purchase both a plow anchor and a Fluke anchor to meet the particular anchoring conditions.

Plow anchors gradually plow themselves into the bottom, burying themselves to create hold.

This anchor is designed to swivel so that change in pull does not cause it to lift out of the ground. This issue can be a problem for the Fluke anchor since it is not designed to swivel this way.

Like the Fluke anchor, choosing the proper Plow anchor depends on the length of the boat. The Plow anchor typically ranges between 26 and 60 pounds. This makes them heavier than the Fluke anchor, making them more difficult to operate but gives them more holding power.

Recommended Weight of PLOW Anchors per Boat Length:

3) Grapnel Anchors

The grapnel anchor can be either fixed or folding.  It does not have the ability to hinge or swivel. Like the Plow anchor, they use their weight to set and hold.

This anchor holds similarly sized boats as the Plow anchor but is usually used on smaller boats.  Its major disadvantage is that the upright flukes can tangle with the anchor line and pull the anchor out.

Like the Plow anchor, this anchor holds up in more bottom types than the Fluke anchor.  It does not usually hold as well as a Plow anchor, though.

Like the Plow anchor, the grapnel anchor is heavy to handle and difficult to store, unless it is the folding style.

Unlike the Plow anchor, the grapnel type anchor has some lighter options, making it a better choice for smaller boats.

The grapnel anchor type can range in weight from 13 to 66 pounds.

Recommended Weight of Grapnel Anchors Per Boat Length:

Like the Fluke anchor, if you have a heavier boat for its length or expect volatile conditions, opt for the heavier option.

4) Claw Anchor

The Claw anchor is also a popular choice because it sets easily and deals well with most types of bottoms. This includes rock, which the previous anchor types mentioned are not ideal for.

The Claw anchor has a wide three-claw design that was originally known as a Bruce anchor.

The Claw anchor, however, can be more difficult to set and hold well.  This means you may need a heavier anchor for your vessel than you would with the other options above.

Like the Plow and grapnel anchor, this anchor is heavy and awkward to stow.  But like the Plow anchor, it will often fit well on a bowsprit anchor roller.

The Claw anchor is relatively less expensive than other anchors, so it remains a popular choice among recreational boat owners.

The Claw anchor can range in weight from 6 pounds to huge industrial sizes. This is the widest range offered by all the options.

Recommended Weight of CLAW Anchors per Boat Length:

Because of the anchor’s range of holding power, quite a few options above overlap. You will want to make sure you opt for the heavier option to ensure your boat holds.

5) Scoop Anchors

The scoop anchor is the term for a number of the new generation of modern anchor designs.

The first of these designs was the Rocna, and now includes others such as Spade and Manson.  These designs are getting very popular because they work in many types of bottoms and have high holding power.

The scoop anchors have been tested thoroughly, and they will generally set and reset easier than the other options.  Because they set so well, you can often use a lighter weight.

However, the scoop anchor can be more difficult to manage and store on the deck or in a locker.

The early versions did not fit well on a bowsprit anchor roller because they had roll bars to help them set and re-set better.  Newer versions have resolved this issue.

The scoop anchor can range in weight from 6 pounds to huge industrial sizes, also.

Recommended Weight of Scoop Anchors per Boat Length:

Because the anchor’s holding power will depend on the boat’s weight and windage, it is used on quite a few options above overlap. If your boat is heavy for its length, you will want to make sure you opt for the heavier option to ensure your boat holds.

3 Factors To Choosing The Right Anchor Type

With a large variety of options, you are probably thinking: so, which one do I choose?

Most boaters agree that you should have two different styles of anchors. This will allow you to use one based on where you are and what you need.

This also allows you to set multiple anchors if needed. This can help with crowded areas or extreme weather. Setting an anchor off the front and back of your vessel can reduce your swinging range when that is important.

There are 3 factors to look at when picking the right anchor for you.

One major factor to look at is the bottom of the body of water you plan to boat in.

1) Consider The Bottom Type For Where You Are Going

This is one of the most important reasons to bring more than one anchor, especially if you are not familiar with the body of water or its bottom.

Bottom Types include:

• Sand : easy for setting and has a high hold.
• Mud : requires a deeper and wider setting for a stronghold.
• Rock/Coral : setting depends more on where you drop your anchor than what anchor you drop.
• Shale/Clay/Grasses : relies on the weight of the anchor more than its design.

Recommended Anchors For Each Bottom Type:

2) Choose The Right Anchor Size (Weight)

After you determine what type of anchor you need for where you are going, you will want to make sure you apply the size charts listed under each anchor.

This is to make sure you pick the proper weight for your particular boat.

When in doubt with any anchor I mentioned above, opt for the heavier option. This will provide more stability and security, no matter what conditions you might encounter.

Some boaters like to have one lighter anchor (a “lunch hook”) for calm conditions and a more robust anchor for overnight anchoring.

The final thing to consider is what your anchor should be made from.

3) How To Choose The Right Anchor Material

There are three common materials your anchor could be made from.

These include galvanized steel, stainless steel, and aluminum.

Some pros and cons of each metal type are as follows:

*If your galvanization begins to wear down, you can always get it re-galvanized.

Final thoughts

There are many other important considerations with anchoring correctly and confidently.

These include the size (diameter) of the line or ride; and the length of the rode for the water depth, called scope.  For instance, an all-chain rode will hold better than a short length of chain and rope.

This is another whole topic, though.

Hopefully, by using this guide, you can pick the anchor that is best for you and your boat.

The proper anchor can help you be confident while you are out on the water and gives you one less thing to worry about!

Click to share...

Free US Shipping on Most Orders Over $99 * - Learn More »

ORDERS SHIP NEXT BUSINESS DAY*

60 days return period - Learn more

• United States (USD $)

• Apparel - Board Shorts
• Apparel - Footwear
• Apparel - Hats
• Apparel - Hoodies & Longsleeves
• Apparel - Lake Names
• Apparel - Rash Guards & Sun Shirts
• Apparel - Tanks & Tees
• Aquaglide Challenge Track
• Aquaglide Lakefront Components
• Aquaglide Lakefront Decks
• Aquaglide Lakefront Lounges
• Aquaglide Lakefront Mini Parks
• Aquaglide Lakefront Trampolines and Bouncers
• Aquaglide Water Park Accessories
• Aquapark Boarding Features
• Aquapark Climbing Walls
• Aquapark Junctions
• Aquapark Rockers
• Aquapark Signature Pieces
• Aquapark Track Components
• Aquapark Track Corners
• Aquapark Trampoline Attachments
• Aquapark Water Trampolines and Bouncers
• Aquapark Yacht
• Bart's Branded Merchandise
• Bart's Key Float
• Boat - Anchor Rope
• Boat - Boat Anchor
• Boat - Boat Fenders
• Boat - Boat Ladders
• Boat - Boat Lights & Flags
• Boat - Boat Mirrors
• Boat - Boat Pylons & Booms
• Boat - Buoys
• Boat - Maintenance & Cleaners
• Boat - Pontoon Accessories
• Boat - Propellers
• Boat - PWC Accessories
• Boat - Safety Equipment
• Boat - Trailering Accessories
• Dock - Dock Accessories & Storage
• Dock - Dock Bumpers
• Dock - Dock Ladders
• Dock - Dock Lights
• Dock - Mooring Lines
• Floats - Cabana
• Floats and Parks - Boat Slide
• Floats and Parks - Inflatable Dock & Swim Platform
• Floats and Parks - Inflators & Deflators
• Floats and Parks - Pool Floats, Lounges, & Rafts
• Floats and Parks - Water Mat
• Floats and Parks - Water Trampoline
• Gift Ideas - Christmas
• Hydrofoil - Foil Surf Board
• Hydrofoil - Ski Foil
• Hydrofoil - Wake Foil
• Kayak - Inflatable Kayak
• Kayak - Kayak Accessories
• Kayak - Kayak Paddles
• Kneeboard Accessories
• Life Jackets - Infant Life Jackets
• Life Jackets - Kid's Life Jackets
• Life Jackets - Men's Life Jackets
• Life Jackets - Non-CGA Comp Vests
• Life Jackets - Paddle Life Jackets
• Life Jackets - Pet Life Jackets
• Life Jackets - Women's Life Jackets
• Mini Water Trampoline Parks
• Multipurpose - Kayak & SUP Paddles
• RAVE Obstacle Course Components
• RAVE Standalone Components
• RAVE Water Park Accessories
• RAVE Water Park Systems
• RAVE Water Trampoline Attachments
• Rave Water Trampolines and Bouncers
• return,package_protection
• Ski - Barefoot Skiing
• Ski - Gloves
• Ski - Kneeboards & Multipurpose Boards
• Ski - Ski Bags
• Ski - Ski Bindings
• Ski - Ski Combos
• Ski - Ski Hardware
• Ski - Ski Ropes & Handles
• Ski - Ski Trainers
• Ski - Slalom Water Ski
• Ski - Slalom Water Ski Packages
• Ski - Trick & Jump
• Suits - Drysuits
• Suits - Wetsuit Accessories
• Suits - Wetsuits
• SUP - Paddleboards
• SUP - SUP Accessories
• SUP - SUP Paddles
• Towables - Boat Tubes
• Towables - Inflators
• Towables - Sea Sleds
• Towables - Tow Rope for Tubing
• Towables - Tube Repair Kits
• Turbo Chute
• Wake - Ballasts & Pumps
• Wake - Helmets
• Wake - Kid's Wakeboards
• Wake - Kid's Wakesurf Board
• Wake - Packaged Wakeboards
• Wake - Wake Boots
• Wake - Wake Cases
• Wake - Wake Fins & Hardware
• Wake - Wake Ropes & Handles
• Wake - Wake Shaper
• Wake - Wake Skate
• Wake - Wakeboard
• Wake - Wakesurf Board
• Water Trampoline Slides & Attachments

SUMMER OUTLET SALE

Save up to 70% off popular gear!

How to Pick a Boat Anchor: The Guide to Types, Sizes & Weights

October 20, 2023

Lakes can get choppy, and river currents can drag you along when you'd rather stay put. Having the right anchor on your boat is crucial, especially if you're busy staging for a wakeboard or ski ride .

But what type and size of anchor is best for your setup?

Types of Boat Anchors

Let's look at the most popular types of boat anchors, and look at some charts to figure out what size and weight anchor is right for you.

Fluke Anchors

Also known as a Danforth anchor, the fluke anchor is favored by lake and river boat owners for its lightweight design and excellent holding power in soft bottoms.

Fluke anchors have a rotating bar that connects the anchor to the line. Their forward-heavy profile allows the flukes to drive straight down into sand or mud. As line is laid out, the bar swivels into a horizontal position, providing good scope.

• Boat Size: 30 feet or less
• Best For: Lakes, rivers, mud and sand
• Bad For: Rocks, debris, coral, strong currents

Plow Anchors

Also called a delta anchor, the plow anchor is one of the most popular anchors on the boat market. It's simple and effective, capable of providing reliable mooring in all water conditions and most beds.

Plow anchors dig into the surface below and they provide high holding power. They set quickly, which makes them an excellent choice when strong currents and winds could otherwise quickly move your boat.

But plow anchors' large, flat fins can get stuck in debris and large rocks, so it's best to stick to softer bottoms.

• Boat Size: 70 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass bottoms, strong winds
• Bad For: Rocky bottoms

Claw Anchors

Also known as a Bruce anchor, the claw anchor is similar to a plow anchor: It sets quickly and digs into soft bottoms, providing good holding power against currents and wind -- though not as well as a plow.

Because claw anchors use smaller pins, they're better suited in gravel and rock, affording a lower risk of catching and getting stuck where a plow anchor might get hung up.

Digger Anchors

The digger anchor excels at providing high holding power in gravel and rocky bottoms, even with strong currents and high wind. It uses a rod that partially rotates, while limiting the angle of the anchor line's scope.

As current and wind pull on the boat, the rod's limited angle pulls on the anchor's claws, pushing them further into the bottom. The digger's thin, long claws work great in virtually all bottom, including gravel and small rocks -- just avoid large debris, as the limited angle of the anchor rod prevents it from being pulled back out of a snag effectively.

• Boat Size: 40 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass, gravel, strong winds
• Bad For: Bottoms with large debris

Navy Anchors

The classic, heavy, big navy anchor excels at providing high holding power in all waters and conditions. Its size and shape make it suitable for rocky bottoms and debris fields, as it has little risk of getting snagged.

The only problem with a navy anchor is that its benefits can become problematic for smaller vessels: Because navy anchors are large and heavy, they can be difficult to stow, and they add plenty of weight to the hull.

• Boat Size: 20+ feet
• Best For: All bottoms, currents, and weather
• Bad For: Small, light boats

Mushroom Anchors

The mushroom anchor is made for small vessels in relatively calm waters with soft bottoms. It relies on suction and sinking into sand, dirt, and mud to provide holding power. These anchors are typically found on light, electric motor-powered boats, kayaks, and dingy boats.

• Boat Size: 12 feet or less
• Best For: Soft bottoms free of rock
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents, rocky bottoms

River Anchors

Like the mushroom anchor, the river anchor is also intended for small vessels in lakes and rivers -- but with one exception: The river anchor works well in rocky bottoms and beds filled with debris. The wide, flat flukes work best when they can grab hold of objects on the floor. River anchors work well enough in soft bottoms, albeit with less holding power than a mushroom.

• Best For: rocky bottoms and debris fields
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents

Choosing The right Size Anchor

When selecting a boat anchor, it's important to consider the following factors:

The size and weight of your boat will determine the size and weight of the anchor you need. As a general rule, the heavier the boat, the larger and heavier the anchor should be.

Water and Weather

The type of weather and currents you encounter will influence your anchor choice. Different anchors perform better in different conditions, so it's important to choose one that suits your boating environment.

Conditions of Water Bed

The floor your anchor rests upon can vary wildly. Some lakes and rivers have rocky bottoms filled with debris, while others have soft silt or sand. Picking the wrong setup could mean you wind up drifting, or worse, cutting line because your anchor got stuck at the bottom.

Anchor Weight vs. Boat Size Chart

The chart above is a general guideline for selecting the appropriate anchor weight for your boat. Conditions on the water, and the weight of your boat -- regardless of its size -- could mean you need a heavier anchor.

Anchor Chain vs. Rope

When it comes to anchoring, you'd think chain is far superior to rope. But chain really only provides two advantages: It adds holding power, helping to keep your boat moored in one spot in rough water and strong currents, and it resists chafing -- it won't suffer damage from being dragged along debris and rocks.

Chain is heavy, though, so it adds weight to your craft when not being used. This isn't a concern on large, sea-going vessels. But you probably don't want that added weight when you're cruising around on the river or lake, especially when towing a wakeboard, tube, or skis.

Chain also rusts, even with regular maintenance, and it's expensive. Nowadays, synthetic anchor rope is tough and abrasion-resistant, and it withstands water and sunlight incredibly well. It's also lightweight relative to its strength, and it takes up much less space than chain.

The most effective setup combines a bit of chain near the anchor, with rope making up the rest of the line. Just a few feet of chain is needed to ensure your anchor is properly seated. This bit of chain also improves the scope of your line. "Scope?" You, say? Read on.

It's All About Scope

Rope alone will provide as much holding power as chain, so long as your scope is correct. Scope measures the ratio of the length of deployed rope (or chain) to the height from the ocean, lake, or riverbed to the anchor point on the boat.

The minimum effective scope you need to properly moor your vessel with any anchor and line is 5:1. That means if the depth from your boat's topside to the underwater floor is 5 feet, you need 25 feet of rope laid out below. This affords about 75% of the maximum holding power of your anchor and line.

A scope of 10:1, laid perfectly flat on the bed below, provides 100% holding power. Using the same 5 foot depth, you'd need 50 feet of anchor rope or chain laid out for max holding power.

Need a new anchor setup? Check out our boat anchors and anchor lines !

Previous Next

SHOP AT BART'S WATER SPORTS:

Risk-free Returns

Connelly Men's Classic Life Jacket

Bart's Watersports Gear

Body Guard Neoprene Spray Leg

Polyform Slalom Buoy

Universal Adult Waterski Binding Heel Assembly

Body Guard Wetsuit Trunks

Connelly Men's Talon Ski Gloves

Stow-zall Storage Net - 118 to 120 in.

Your cart is empty

Subtotal:$0.00 USD

Experts on Staff

Customer service 7 days a week

Fast Shipping

Usually ships by the next business day

America's Favorite Water Sports Store

Price-match guarantee

Our promise to you

Choose options

Boat Anchor Types: A Complete Guide

Table of Contents

Last Updated on January 11, 2024 by Boatsetter Team

To live out your boating dreams, it is important to ensure your  safety  and ensure that you have the best anchor. Anchors are essential for any boating activity and crucial for any experienced or amateur boater. By mastering the fundamentals of safe anchoring, you will safeguard your boating experiences from any accidents or anxiety. This guide will help you choose your ultimate anchor and provide tips for choosing which boat anchor is right for you. After choosing the anchor that is your right fit, you will be able to have smooth sails ahead and enjoy a stress-free time with friends and family.

Knowing the Ropes

Knowing your whole anchor system will be essential in shopping for an anchor. The anchor system is comprised of the chain, rope, shackle, and deck cleats along with the anchor. Each of these items must deliver the quality, performance, and strength that you need to anchor your boat .

Your Anchor Line: The Anchor Rode

Using a short anchor chain and three-strand nylon line will greatly reduce loads of shocks on your boat and the anchor system. Nylon is very elastic and helps reduce shockwaves or damage to the boat. Avoid anchor rodes that use all chains because they will lack the shock-absorbing qualities of nylon rope when the winds increase. The chain protects the line from chafing on the seabed.

If regularly anchoring in 25-ft of water or less, use 6 ft of chain. In greater depths, use an additional 6 ft for every 25-ft of water depth.

Holding Power

You have to make sure that the  anchor  you choose will support the boat you are operating and will fit the conditions of the environment you will be boating in. Choosing the right anchor for the type of boat you operate and the type of wind conditions you will be encountering is essential for boating safely. You must be certain that your anchor will be able to hold your boat. Here are three different types of anchors and rules of thumb for the durability of an boat anchor.

• Lunch Hook:  This anchor should hold a boat in a 15- knot breeze.
• Working Anchor:  This anchor should hold up to 30-knots of wind.
• Storm Anchor:  This anchor is for winds up to 42-knots of wind.

It is important to remember that as a general rule, when the wind speed doubles, the holding requirement quadruples. Be mindful of holding power requirements for different wind speeds, and use this information as a rule of thumb!

Know Your Scope

The scope is the length of the anchor line in relation to the distance of your boat’s deck to the bottom of the sea. Understanding scope is critical in anchoring and boating safely. The scope’s ratio should at least be 5:1, length to distance. When the scope increases, the anchor’s horizontal pull will also increase, which can help dig the anchor deeper into the sea bottom. When the scope decreases, the anchor’s pull will become more vertical. This can cause your boat to disturb and dislodge your anchor, especially at the height of a wave or during high tide.

If the scope’s ratio is less than 3:1, you are at risk of giving away a significant amount of control. Remember to set your anchor at a 5:1 initially. Afterward, you may shorten the scope as needed.

Power Setting the Anchor

To ensure that your anchor is thoroughly buried into the sea bottom, it is best to “Power Set” it. When you start setting the anchor into place, begin to lower it slowly into the water. As the anchor begins to descend deeper into the bottom, slowly begin to increase your anchor load with your engine to make sure it is securely buried. Remember that if you back off at any speed, you might not give the anchor a chance to bury itself into the sea bottom and ensure anchoring. You can follow and mimic the force of the wind by using the engine’s thrust to set the anchor to a predetermined load. By matching your boat’s total maximum horsepower and hull type , you can determine to what extent your boat can “Power Set” your anchor.

Anchoring in Soft Mud Bottoms

If you are anchoring in a soft mud bottom, this will greatly reduce your holding power compared to harder soils or sands. If you encounter a problem setting your anchor in this environment, then try setting the anchor at a very short scope at first. This initial scope could be a 2:1 ratio. When the anchor begins to dig in and set, slowly increase the scope to a greater ratio. An example of this could be a 5:1 ratio. Then, try to power set the anchor.

Special “mud palms” can be installed on your anchor, and it is recommended that you permanently install these “mud palms” to set your anchor in any type of bottom.

Retrieving the Anchor

Start by slowly moving the boat into a position that directly hovers over the anchor, pulling in the line as you go. When you are directly above it, shorten the line on a cleat and slowly power backward to pull the anchor out of the bottom. Do not power forward since this will require way more energy and put heavy loads on the anchor and support system.

A Summary of Anchor Types: Choosing the Right  Style  for You!

Claw anchors.

The Claw Anchor is one of the most popular anchors among boaters in North America. This anchor is a dynamic anchor that performs well in many sea bottoms, including mud, sand, rock, and coral. It has more trouble digging into harder surfaces like clay and dense grass. It has a three-claw design and sets and resets easier than other anchors. On the other hand, it has a lower holding power per pound than other anchors.

The Wing and Plow Anchor

The Wing Anchor is a hinged anchor. The Plow Anchor also has a hinged design, but the greatest difference between the Plow and Wing is that the Wing is a one-piece design. The Plow Anchor is one of the most popular anchors among bluewater cruisers despite having low holding power. However, the hinged design makes it more responsive and durable to environmental elements.

Delta Anchor

This anchor is an excellent choice for anchors that are going to be used repeatedly during stormy conditions. The self-righting design allows it to set quickly and the ballasted tip ensures that it stays in place. The Delta anchor can be said to be the most popular anchors among boats today and is the standard for boat manufacturers . Regardless of whether you want a boat anchor for a sailboat or for a pontoon boat, be sure to choose this one.

The Fluke Anchor

The Fluke Anchor is also a popular choice among boaters. The Fluke Anchor is constructed of lightweight, high-strength aluminum. The Fluke Anchor performs well in mud and sand, perhaps better than any other style. On the other hand, if not in mud or sand, The Fluke Anchor is not the best performer.

The Plow Anchor with Roll Bar

There are several Plow Anchors with roll bars that are essentially variations on the plow style anchor. The Plow Anchors with roll bars are a lot sharper than traditional Plow styles. Since the roll bars create a distinct sharpness, they can penetrate the sea bottom much easier than other anchor styles. The roll bar also helps the anchor orient itself when setting. The only downside is that these anchors can be very expensive and difficult to store.

Grapnel and Small Anchors

The Grapnel Anchor is used for small boats such as Kayaks, Canoes, etc. It is a favorite among fishers and is compact and easy to store. Grapnel’s hook onto another object for holding power yields immense holding power but can create difficulty retrieving the anchor.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom Anchors are often used for mooring buoys permanently because of their extreme holding power that can often hold ten times its actual weight. Silt from the sea bottom builds up over these anchors and results in this extreme holding power. However, this anchor type is not useful in temporary anchoring situations and makes more sense for permanent mooring. The exception is smaller versions of the Mushroom that can be used for small boats and anchoring while fishing.

Anchor Materials

The most common anchor materials are mild steel, high-tensile steel, stainless steel, and aluminum. Most anchors are mild/high-tensile steel. High-tensile steel is about twice as strong as mild steel, but that is not to say that it has a higher holding power, just that it is stronger. These are not corrosion resistant and need to be galvanized to prevent rust. All anchors need to be galvanized and can be pre-galvanized to prevent erosion.

Once you identify your needs and what fits best for you and your boat, you will be able to safely anchor at any desired destination!

Boatsetter empowers people to explore with confidence by showing them a world of possibility on the water. Rent  a boat,  list  your boat, or become a  Boatsetter captain  today.

Browse by experience

Explore articles

Best Outboard Motor: A Complete Guide

Yacht Week: A Beginner’s Guide 

Top 7 Palm Beach County Beaches

Boat Trailer Maintenance Checklist

Free Shipping *

Premium Quality

No-Hassle Returns

[email protected]

844-524-7627

Anchor Selection Guide: How to Choose the Best Boat Anchor Type

There are a number of boat anchors available, constructed of different materials, and often with confusing names. This article will discuss the most popular types of boat anchors,  how to choose the best anchor for your boat, the most common material types, and also give an overview of different naming conventions.

Quick Anchor Style Summary

Video: Choosing an Anchor Type

Our video below introduces many of the anchor types discussed here, although the article discusses a few more anchor types and provides some useful links.

Quick Summary Boat Anchor Recommendation

For most boaters , a Bruce or Delta is the best balance between price and performance. Both perform similarly and are similarly priced (Narrowly, the Bruce/Claw is our favorite of the three). If you've used a Danforth in the past , and you have had luck with it, choose a Danforth. If you've never used one before and if your setup allows it, choose a Bruce or Delta instead. If you're a blue-water cruiser , choose a CQR, or consider one of the new generation of anchors discussed below.

Boat Anchor Names: Trademarked Names and Generic Names

A special note is needed on the naming of anchors. Many anchors have a trademarked name, such as a   Bruce   or CQR, and a generic name like Claw or Plow. This is the same as how Xerox is a trademarked name for photocopier and how Aspirin is a trademarked name for pain killer. Trademarks effectively never expire whereas design patents expire after approximately 20-25 years. Therefore, manufacturers are free to clone an anchor design that has an expired patent but cannot use the trademarked name.

Bruce™ Claw Anchor

The   Bruce, or Claw, remains one of the most popular anchors among recreational boaters in North America. This is our anchor of choice as well.

The   Bruce   was developed in the 70s by the Bruce Anchor Group. Once their patent expired in the early 2000s, they stopped production of this anchor but many imitations have come along since.

The  Bruce  is an excellent all-purpose anchor as it performs well in most sea bottoms including mud, sand, rock, and coral. It has a harder time penetrating harder surfaces, such as clay, and bottoms with heavy grass. The three-claw design sets more easily than other anchors. It also resets easily if it is ever broken loose. On the downside, the Bruce has a lower holding power per pound than other anchors, meaning you’ll usually need a larger anchor than say the  Delta/Wing .

Pros:  Performs well in most conditions. Sets easily. Cons:  Awkward one piece design. Lower holding power per pound. Bottoms: Performs well in most bottoms; Struggles in hard bottoms such as clay, or heavy grass.

CQR™/Plow   &   Delta™/Wing Anchor

Both the CQR/Plow and the Delta/Wing are a plow style anchor. The most significant difference between these anchors is the fact that the CQR has a hinged design whereas the Delta is a one piece design.

The   CQR   is one of the oldest styles, dating back to the 30s and to this day, it remains one of the most popular anchors among blue water cruisers. Despite this, it has relatively low holding power and it consistently struggles in independent tests. It’s also rare to find a CQR under 25 lbs lending itself to the saying “There’s no such thing as a small CQR”. Despite these shortcomings, the hinged design makes it more responsive to wind and tide changes as compared to other anchors.

The   Delta   is arguably the most popular anchor on boats today, and is the standard anchor of choice used by most boat manufacturers. It has a good holding power per pound (about 50% more than the Bruce).

Both the   Delta   and the   CQR   perform well in most bottoms, struggling the most in rock.

Pros:   Performs well in most conditions. Fits most bow rollers. Cons:   Hinged design can make stowage awkward. "No such thing as a small CQR/Plow anchor". Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; struggles in rock.

Danforth™/Fluke Anchor

The  Danforth , or Fluke anchor, remains a very popular anchor choice. The Fortress is also a popular Fluke style anchor, different from the  Danforth  in that it comes apart and it constructed of light-weight, high-strength, aluminum.

The Fluke performs well in mud and sand, potentially the best of any anchor style. The downside is that outside of these bottoms, it is not a good performer. Therefore, it is a mud/sand only anchor, which fortunately is what most bottoms are comprised of.

Whether or not it is used as a primary anchor, a Fluke anchor makes an excellent choice as a secondary or stern anchor.

Pros:  Performs well in mud and sand. Stows easily on most bow rollers. Cons:   Does not perform well outside of mud/sand. Bottoms : Top performer in mud/sand. Performs poorly in other bottoms.

Spade Anchors

There are several anchors on the market today that feature a sharp fluke and a roll bar. These include the   Rocna and Manson Supreme.

Each of these anchors are essentially a variation on a plow style anchor. If you look at the plow portion of these anchors, you can see they are a lot sharper than traditional plows like the   Delta/Wing   and CQR. Analogous to a knife through butter, these anchors can penetrate the sea bottom a lot easier and deeper than the other anchor styles, hence the name for these anchors: "spade". The roll bar helps orient the anchor upright when setting.

These anchors have performed   extremely well in third party tests . The biggest downside to these anchors is that because they are still patented, they can be very expensive. The roll bar along with the elongated fluke can also make storing these anchors on bow rollers difficult.

Pros:   Very high holding power for many models. Cons:   Difficult to stow on a bow roller. Expense. Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; less effective in rock

Grapnel   and Other Small Craft Anchors

A  Grapnel anchor  is generally used for small boats such as Kayaks, Dinghies, Canoes, etc. It’s also popular with fishermen.They fold up very compactly and are easy to stow. A Grapnel’s holding power comes from hooking onto another object, such as a rock. When it does hook, it can create immense holding power, which can also make retrieving the anchor difficult.

Pros:  Great for use as a lunch hook. Folds to allow for compact storage. Cons:  Not appropriate for non-temporary anchorage. Bottoms: Rock or other situations when it can hook onto an object.

Mushroom Anchors

Large Mushroom anchors  are often used for permanent mooring buoys. As the silt from the sea-bottom builds up over these anchors, it can result in extreme holding power, up to 10 times the holding power of its actual weight. As a mooring buoy, the mushroom anchor is an excellent choice, however, it is not as useful in some temporary anchoring situations. An exception is that smaller versions of these anchors are good for use in small boats for anchoring while fishing or for a lunch stop over silty bottoms where the mushroom can penetrate.

Pros: If large, great for permanent mooring buoys. If small, good for use while fishing or for a lunch stop. Cons: If large, not appropriate for non-permanent moorings. If small, only good in soft bottoms. Bottoms: Silt, soft mud, unpacked sand.

Boat Anchor Material Types

Boat anchors come in a variety of types, the most popular being mild steel, high-tensile steel, stainless steel, and aluminum.

Most of the traditional steel anchors we are accustomed to seeing are likely either mild or high tensile steel. Mild steel and high-tensile steel are nearly indistinguishable from one another appearance wise. However, high tensile steel is 2-3 times stronger than mild steel. This isn't to say that a high-tensile steel boat anchor has 2-3 times the holding power of its mild steel counterpart, but it will nonetheless be stronger.

Both mild steel and high-tensile steel anchors are not corrosion resistant, and therefore need to be galvanized to prevent rust and other corrosion. All steel anchors (except stainless) should be galvanized. Galvanization has a tendency to wear down over time, but an anchor (as well as nearly any other steel product) can be re-galvanized.

Stainless steel is identical to galvanized steel in terms of holding power but differs significantly in appearance. The shiny gloss is essentially the only difference between stainless steel and galvanized steel. Stainless steel is also very corrosion resistant and will resist most rusting over time. You will often see manufacturers describing stainless steel as either 316 Stainless or 304 Stainless. 316 is a different chemical composition than 304 and is more corrosion resistant. It also more expensive.

There are some anchors constructed from high strength aluminum, such as the Fortress. These anchors are extremely lightweight while still offering high holding power. These anchors rely on bottom penetration for most of the holding power, and therefore, if they are not set, they provide little to no holding power.

Published May 08, 2018

Recent Posts

Windlass problems common issues and how to fix them.

Let's look at common issues with windlasses and how to address them: 1) Windlass Won’t Run in Either Direction 2) Solenoid Clicks, but Windlass Won’t Move 3) Windlass Lacks Power to Haul the Anchor 4) Rode Gets Jammed or Doesn’t Come In

Our history: a 20 year journey

Boat Cleaning Tips for Anglers: Keeping Your Vessel Spotless and Pristine

Avast, Ye Mariners! Master the Art of Docking: A Swashbuckling Guide for Boaters

Top Reasons to Keep a Boating Maintenance Log

4 Top Tips for Buying a New-to-you Used Boat

Bent Boat Anchor Shank: Common Causes and Prevention Tips

Prepare Your Boat For An Above Average Hurricane Season

Best Methods For Anchoring Your Jet Ski in Deep or Shallow Water

Best Options For Connecting Your Boat To WiFi Internet

Information

About Us Terms & Conditions Privacy Policy Product Manuals & Instructions Shipping Info

Anchors Anchor Lines Biminis Covers Dock Lines Fenders Galleyware Windlasses

Customer Service

Contact Us FAQs Returns & Warranty Wholesale Inquiries

Anchoring Help

Browse all products >, stay updated.

© 2024 TH Marine. All Rights Reserved. Anchoring.com ™ • Norestar™ • Komo Covers®

Boat Reviews

• Boats Specs
• Marine Pros
• Boat Insurance
• Boat Warranties
• Boat Transport
• Boat Towing
• Marine Forecasts

Your Ultimate Boating Resource

Anchor Selection: A Guide to Types and Sizes

Anchoring is a crucial aspect of boating, and the right anchor can provide stability, safety and peace of mind for any sailor. Choosing the correct type and size of anchor is essential, as it can greatly impact your overall experience on the water. This guide will outline the various types of anchors available, their ideal uses, and how to choose the right size for your boat.

Understanding the Purpose of Anchors

Anchors serve multiple purposes in boating:

• Holding power : Anchors are designed to provide holding power by digging into the seabed and creating resistance, preventing the boat from drifting.
• Temporary mooring : When a boat needs to be stationary for a short period, an anchor is used to secure it in place.
• Emergencies : Anchors can serve as a safety measure in emergencies by helping to control your boat’s movements in rough weather or if the engine fails.

Types of Anchors

There are several types of anchors to cater for various boating requirements and environments. The primary ones include:

Plow Anchors

Originally designed for large ships, plow anchors resemble a plowshare and offer excellent holding power in most bottom conditions, especially sand and mud. They work by digging into the seabed and maintaining a consistent grip. Plow anchors are popular among cruisers due to their adaptability, and they can handle a variety of wind and current changes.

Danforth Anchors

Also known as fluke anchors, Danforth anchors boast superior holding power in proportion to their weight. They’re characterized by their flat, sharp flukes and long shank that allows them to dig into soft substrates like sand and mud. However, Danforth anchors may struggle with rocky bottoms and can be challenging to set in grassy or weedy seabeds.

Claw Anchors

Claw anchors, also known as Bruce anchors, have three claws that provide holding power in a variety of bottom conditions. Due to their versatile design, they re-set easily when the boat’s position changes and can function with shorter scope, which is the anchor rode (chain or rope) payed out relative to the water’s depth. These factors make claw anchors popular among boaters, though their holding power may be less than that of plow or Danforth anchors.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom anchors are useful for small boats in relatively calm conditions. As the name suggests, they’re shaped like a mushroom and utilize their weight to create a suction effect, embedding themselves into soft bottom substrates like silt or mud. However, they generally offer limited holding power in stronger currents or wind.

Choosing the Right Size Anchor for Your Boat

Selecting the appropriate size anchor for your vessel involves considering factors like boat weight, size, and the windage (resistance to wind). Generally, anchor manufacturers offer recommendations based on boat length, but it’s essential to factor in your specific boat’s requirements and typical anchoring conditions.

Anchor Weight

Anchors are typically sized by weight, ranging from a few pounds for small vessels to several hundred pounds for large yachts. The rule of thumb is that the heavier the boat, the heavier the anchor should be. However, it’s important to consider the type of anchor you’re using, as the holding power varies across anchor designs.

Boat Length

Boat length is another crucial aspect to consider when selecting an anchor size. Consult manufacturer guidelines on their recommendations for anchor sizing based on boat length.

Chain and Rode Size

The anchor rode, which connects your boat to the anchor, is critical for holding power. The scope, typically measured in a ratio of the rode’s length to the water’s depth, is an important factor for the anchor’s performance. A common recommendation is using a 4:1 scope for temporary mooring and a 7:1 scope for overnight anchoring. Ensure the chain (the section of the rode closest to the anchor) is of suitable size and strength to prevent it from breaking under strain.

Final Thoughts

When selecting an anchor for your boat, it’s essential to consider the type, size, and the conditions in which you’ll be anchoring. Consult manufacturer guidelines and conduct thorough research on the options available to make an informed decision. A properly sized and suited anchor will offer peace of mind, ensuring your vessel remains securely moored during your adventures on the water.

RELATED ARTICLES

Overview of the 2024 sea-doo rxp-x 325, overview of the 2024 parker offshore 2900 cc, what your boat’s beam is and why it matters, power cats of 2024: ultimate guide to the top power catamarans this year, navigating the heat: 10 safety tips for a safe boat ride in the summer heat, latest posts, don't miss, our newsletter.

Get the latest boating tips, fishing resources and featured products in your email from BoatingWorld.com!

What type of wood is used for pier pilings?

What is the difference between a dock and a floating pier, what is the proper technique for pulling a beginner wakeboarder, what does ‘no wake’ mean on a lake, what is the difference between wash and wake, highs, lows, and tidal know-how: a deep dive into ocean currents, 10 essential tips for fishing near private property, the benefits of using a drift sock: guidance for anglers, lure fishing: secrets for imitating live bait and attracting fish, explore the untapped depths of america’s best bass fishing spots, outboard motor maintenance: tips for keeping your engine in top shape, the essential boat tool kit: tools every boater needs, diy boat building: 8 tips and tricks for building your own vessel, the art of miniature maritime craftsmanship: ship in a bottle, antifouling paints: a guide to keeping your boat shipshape, beginner’s guide to standup paddle boarding: tips and techniques, boating for fitness: how to stay active on the water, kayak safety: how to stay safe on the water, anchoring in a kayak or canoe: how to secure your small boat, overview of the 2024 yamaha 252sd, overview of the 2024 tiara yachts 48 le, overview of the 2024 bass cat jaguar sts, 2024 pursuit os 445: an overview, 2024 aquila 47 molokai review, 2024 sea-doo switch 13 sport review, gear reviews, megabass oneten max lbo jerkbait review, fortress anchors fx-7 anchoring system review, fortress anchors fx-11 anchoring system review, fortress anchors commando anchor kit review, fortress anchors aluminum anchors review, stay in touch.

To be updated with all the latest news, offers and special announcements.

• Privacy Policy

• Pontoon Boats
• Personal Watercraft
• nauticalknowhow
• Nautical Knots
• Tools and Calculators

Everything You Need to Know About 8 Major Boat Anchor Types

There are quite a few types of anchors you can use for your boat and they are not all interchangeable so it’s key that you pick the right one. Many boaters carry more than one type as not all anchors work well in all conditions. It’s good to have an anchor that can work on soft, muddy surfaces as well as one that can work in hard or rocky conditions. If you know where you’ll be boating and what conditions are like ahead of time, you can prepare by ensuring you have the right anchor. 

All an anchor needs to do to be functional is hold your vessel in place in the water. But this requires an anchor suited to both the size of your boat and the conditions below the surface of the water.

Let’s take a look at 8 of the most common anchor types to see what they’re good for and how they work.

Fluke Anchor or Danforth Anchor

Fluke is the type of anchor, but Danforth is a trademark name. It’s like tissue versus Kleenex. The name “fluke” is a reference to the pointed parts of the anchor that stick out like teeth.

• Description: Some fluke designs can come apart, and some are solid. Typically, they are made of lightweight aluminum and offer remarkable strength and holding power even when they are rather small and light.  There are several fluke designs, and some may have multiple flukes, but there will be at least two present.  These are great for bass boats, pontoons , and much more.
• Boat Type : Small to medium boats under 30 feet
• Ideal For : Muddy, sandy, and soft seabeds
• Bad For: Rocky bottoms, hard bottoms, coral
• Advantages: The flukes can dig in like a scoop and bury themselves deep, allowing the pressure of the mud/sand and water to push down on the flat parts of the flukes, creating a strong hold to keep your boat in place. This is arguably the best kind of anchor to use in these situations
• Disadvantages: If the ground is packed hard or covered in rocks or weeds, the fluke will be less effective at getting any grip and may not be able to lock into anything at all, making it essentially useless. 
• Cost: Fluke anchors run a range of prices based on size and quality. Some smaller flukes that still perform very well can be purchased for under $25. Higher quality and larger flukes can be found for $100 to $150. 

Claw Anchor or Bruce Anchor

Bruce is the trademark name for a kind of claw anchor.

• Description: Claw anchors resemble plow anchors but with a broader scoop section and typically three teeth or claws that it uses to dig into the substrate to gain hold. 
• Boat Type: Mid-sized boats up to about 60 feet
• Ideal For : Soft bottoms that are muddy but also rock and coral
• Bad For: Loose seabeds like sand are not ideal for the claw, and hard clay bottoms will offer no purchase. Claws do not perform well in weeds, either.
• Advantages: Claw anchors are considered some of the easiest to use. Setting a claw anchor is usually quick and easier than other anchor types. It’s also easy to reset when it comes loose, so many boaters prefer it and consider it a good, all-around anchor for most conditions. It works best when the bottom is soft so it can get some purchase, and it also does well in rock and coral because the teeth or claws can wedge into place.
• Disadvantages: Pound for pound, the claw anchor also has less holding strength than most other anchors so in poor conditions, you may find a claw anchor coming loose on its own far more than you’d like. 
• Cost: The smallest Bruce or claw-style anchors start around $30 to $40 and are best suited for smaller vessels. Larger and heavier claws, especially stainless steel ones, will increase in price to as much as $150 or more. Marine-grade claw anchors that weigh over 40 lbs can even break $500.

Mushroom Anchor

These are more often used for permanent moorings, like for buoys, as their holding power only increases over time as silt and debris builds up on top of it. They work by simply sitting in place and allowing the cup part to fill up over time as the current deposits material inside.

• Description: Mushroom anchors get their name from their shape, which resembles an upside-down mushroom cap.
• Boat Type : Tiny boats or permanent moorings
• Ideal For: Sandy or loose bottoms so the sediment can collect in the mushroom.
• Bad For: Large boats as well as rocky or hard bottoms
• Advantages : Mushrooms are some of the cheapest anchors and they come in small sizes that are ideal for very small boats. Larger mushrooms can hold things in place permanently if they are given time to really take root.
• Disadvantages: Most mushrooms are not ideal for temporary mooring because they need time to become buried and provide resistance. They have very limited holding power for larger vessels, especially for short term anchoring. On a bottom that is hard or rocky, a mushroom anchor will not be able to provide any holding power as they need soft material and silt to fill in the cup and provide resistance. 
• Cost: A cheap, cast iron mushroom anchor made for a small vessel might cost you around $20. Heavier mushrooms, up to 20lbs, that have a vinyl or galvanized coating can cost as much as $70 or more.

Grapnel Anchor Or Grappler Anchor

They are designed to work on a rocky bottom where the hooks can wedge in between and around rocks to form a strong hold.

• Description: These anchors resemble a grappling hook and tend to have four or more hook-like fingers spread out around the central column. The claws usually fold down when not in use, making this one of the most space-saving anchor designs.
• Boat Type: Smaller vessels under 15 feet
• Ideal For: Rocks
• Bad For: Soft or muddy bottoms
• Advantages: Grapnel anchors are best for smaller boats like canoes because of their compact size and holding power. Once set, it’s very hard to release a grapnel anchor so the hold is reliable.
• Disadvantages: These anchors don’t work well without rocks to hold onto. They also tend to come loose easily if the winds and currents change which doesn’t make them ideal for any sort of long term anchorage.
• Cost: Grapnel anchors can be incredibly cheap with dinghy-sized anchors at under $15. Larger galvanized or stainless steel versions can range from about $60 to $90.

Plow Anchor or CQR Anchor

CQR is a trademark name for a kind of plow anchor. These get their name because they look like an old-timey plow you might find in a field. These anchors are very old and, as such, are very common as well.

• Description: Where a fluke has two or more teeth, a plow has that center fluke or tooth that will dig into the bottom to give the anchor the needed hold.
• Boat Type: Medium-sized boats around 60 feet
• Ideal For: Soft bottoms like sand or mud and also weeds
• Bad For: Hard or rocky bottoms, also very loose bottoms
• Advantages: A plow anchor is one of the best anchors for handling changes in wind and current. They are less likely to break free and need to be reset in these conditions. They tend to work well in many conditions and are fairly reliable and predictable as a result.
• Disadvantages: Plow anchors don’t offer as strong a hold as many other anchor types, and, as a result, to get one that works, you may need to opt for a heavier anchor than you would if you used a different type.
• Cost: Galvanized steel plow anchors can be just over $100, while stainless steel plows can get up around $250 or more.

Delta Anchor

This is another kind of plow anchor and sometimes it’s called a wing anchor. Delta anchors are some of the most popular anchors in use today and are solid, all purpose anchors. These are ideal for most sized vessels including larger boats.

• Description: Delta is a single-piece anchor while the CQR is a hinged piece, so the operation is slightly different. Otherwise, this is much the same as a typical plow anchor.
• Boat Type: Up to 70 feet
• Ideal For: Soft, muddy bottoms but also sand and clay.
• Bad For: Rocks
• Advantages: The Delta anchor is reliable in many conditions and, When it does grab hold because it’s one solid piece, it offers a surprisingly strong hold as well, especially when compared to similar anchors.
• Disadvantages: May be too large or expensive for many boats.
• Cost: A Delta anchor for a boat around 30 to 40 feet may set you back $400 to $500. A 22lb stainless steel Delta can be over $700. That said, you can find many Deltas for smaller boats that cost between $100 and $200.

Box anchors are a relatively new anchor design but have proven to also be extremely versatile. They are not designed for any specific size of boat and seem to work well with all kinds. They say you can even anchor a houseboat with box anchors.

• Description: They are designed in a box shape lined with hooks or flukes along the outside edges. It works in any bottom condition by digging into harder surfaces or scraping softer ones to fill the box and add weight. Because of how this anchor sets, you may need less anchor line to use it.
• Boat Type: Potentially any boat, though it may be overkill for smaller vessels.
• Ideal For: Any seabed
• Bad For: May be unnecessary for smaller vessels
• Advantages: The box anchor uses less line than a traditional anchor and can hold a 45-degree angle. The down-facing flukes can dig into the seabed without catching on debris, and the anchor can also reset itself when it comes loose. The box anchor can set almost immediately after dropping it. It offers some extreme holding power with less anchor rode than many other modern anchors, making it one of the more popular up-and-coming anchor styles.
• Disadvantages : Because they’re so new, they are not as well tested or trusted yet, and they can also get a little pricey, especially for casual boaters or those with smaller vessels. 
• Cost : You can get box anchors from about $100 for a basic version up to around $300 for a stainless steel one.

Shallow Water Anchor or Power Pole

Power pole anchors work automatically by using what looks like a hydraulic arm to raise and lower the pole and root it in place. A DIY shallow water anchor can be as simple as a fiberglass pole attached to the hull with a clamp. 

• Description: Unlike a standard anchor attached to a line and dropped overboard, a shallow water anchor is essentially just a pole extending from the side of the hull down to the surface below the water. Because it’s for use in shallow water, it anchors the boat directly to the ground below without requiring a line.
• Boat Type: These anchors are often used on jon boats , flats boats , or any vessel used for fishing in very shallow water.
• Ideal For: Shallow water
• Bad For: Deep water, larger rocks.
• Advantages: With a power pole set up, these anchors can be set into nearly any kind of bottom and then released again in just moments. They also offer an extremely secure hold that roots the boat in place to ensure minimal movement while fishing. DIY poles are often cheap and easy to make, and many video tutorials are online.
• Disadvantages: A Power Pole type boat anchor can be a major investment, and not every boater wants to put that much money into an anchor. By the same token, a DIY version will be cheaper but may take some time and effort to produce, and also you may need to do some trial and error to get it to work.
• Cost: Power Poles can cost over $2000 and also require maintenance. A DIY pole, however, can cost you $20 or $30 depending on the design.

The Bottom Line

There are a number of types of anchors which work with whatever sized boat you have and whatever surface you are trying to anchor in. It’s always important to test your anchor out to make sure it meets your needs, can hold your boat, and is easy for you to both set and release when needed. 

Most anchors don’t cost a lot of money but some larger or more complex designs can set you back a considerable sum of money so make sure you’re investing in something you truly need before committing to any purchase. 

My grandfather first took me fishing when I was too young to actually hold up a rod on my own. As an avid camper, hiker, and nature enthusiast I'm always looking for a new adventure.

Categories : Boats

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

More in Boats

What Is A Gunwale?

131 of the Best Hawaiian Boat Names

167 Patriotic Boat Names

The 138 Best Boat Names for Dog Lovers

The People’s Poncho Review and Ratings 

Oru Lake Kayak Review

About Boatsafe

Established in 1998, BoatSafe is your independent guide into the world of boating, fishing, and watersports. We provide expert insights and detailed guides to help you find products tailored to your needs and budget.

Contact Boatsafe

• Address: 4021 West Walnut Street. Rogers, AR 72756
• Phone:  (479)339-4795
• Email: [email protected]

Site Navigation

• How We Test
• Corrections Policy
• Privacy Policy
• Terms & Conditions
• Editorial Policy
• Affiliate Disclosure

Our Reviews

All content is © Copyright 2024. All rights reserved.

Please verify you are a human

Access to this page has been denied because we believe you are using automation tools to browse the website.

This may happen as a result of the following:

• Javascript is disabled or blocked by an extension (ad blockers for example)
• Your browser does not support cookies

Please make sure that Javascript and cookies are enabled on your browser and that you are not blocking them from loading.

Reference ID: 6c9e2c59-6379-11ef-947b-9671ad4e8761

Powered by PerimeterX , Inc.

• Anchoring for boats: A comprehensive guide

If you're setting sail on a boat, understanding the ins and outs of anchoring is crucial. Anchors play a pivotal role in keeping your vessel secure, whether you're in a tranquil harbor or facing challenging seas. In this comprehensive guide, we'll delve into all things related to boat anchors, from types and techniques to essential tips for safe anchoring.

Types of boat anchors

When it comes to boat anchors, various types are available, each designed for specific conditions and seabeds. Let's explore some common types:

1. Danforth anchor

The Danforth anchor, also known as the fluke anchor, is revered for its exceptional holding power, particularly in soft and sandy seabeds. Its design, characterised by sharp triangular flukes, facilitates deep penetration into the substrate, ensuring reliable anchorage even in calm waters with minimal tidal movement. This anchor's effectiveness is further enhanced by its lightweight construction, making it a preferred choice for smaller vessels and recreational boating activities. Additionally, the Danforth anchor's collapsible design enables easy storage and deployment, adding to its practicality and versatility on board.

2. Plow anchor

Plow anchors, represented by renowned designs such as the CQR (Coastal Quick Release) and Delta, are renowned for their versatility and rapid setting capabilities across diverse seabed conditions. Featuring a single large fluke resembling a plough, these anchors excel in gripping various substrates, including sand, mud, and gravel, making them favoured choices for boaters navigating different coastal environments. The CQR's innovative hinge mechanism allows it to pivot and self-align with changes in the seabed, ensuring optimal holding power even in shifting conditions. Similarly, the Delta anchor's robust construction and sharp tip enable it to penetrate and set quickly, providing reliable anchorage for vessels of various sizes.

3. Claw anchor

Claw anchors, epitomised by designs like the Bruce and Lewmar models, are specially engineered to conquer challenging seabeds characterised by rocks, weeds, or debris. Their unique configuration, featuring multiple curved flukes resembling claws, allows them to penetrate and grip uneven or obstructed surfaces effectively. This attribute makes claw anchors indispensable for boaters exploring rocky coastlines, shallow reefs, or areas prone to seaweed entanglement. The Bruce anchor, in particular, is celebrated for its exceptional holding power and reliability, making it a preferred choice for offshore cruising and long-term anchoring. Similarly, Lewmar's claw anchors are revered for their durability and performance in demanding marine environments, offering peace of mind to sailors and adventurers alike.

4. Mushroom anchor

Mushroom anchors are compact, weighted anchors ideally suited for lightweight boats, canoes, or small watercraft. Their design features a wide, flat bottom resembling a mushroom cap, which sinks into the seabed to provide stability and secure holding in calm conditions. While not suitable for anchoring in high winds or strong currents, mushroom anchors offer a practical solution for temporary mooring or securing vessels in sheltered waters. Their simplicity and ease of use make them popular choices for recreational boating activities, where lightweight and portable anchoring options are preferred. Additionally, mushroom anchors are less likely to damage delicate substrates or cause environmental disturbances, making them environmentally friendly alternatives for anchoring in sensitive marine ecosystems.

Anchoring techniques

Proper anchoring involves more than just dropping an anchor into the water. Here are essential techniques to master:

1. Setting the anchor

Setting the anchor involves a careful process to ensure a secure hold. Begin by lowering the anchor to the seabed slowly while allowing the boat to drift back with the wind or current. This gradual descent facilitates proper embedding of the anchor into the seabed substrate. As you lower the anchor, pay out enough anchor rode (chain or line) to create a scope ratio of 7:1, providing optimal holding power. A sufficient scope allows the anchor to set more effectively and reduces the risk of dragging or dislodging in changing conditions.

2. Setting the hook

Once the anchor reaches the seabed, it's crucial to set the hook firmly for maximum holding power. Apply reverse throttle to the engine, gently pulling the boat back against the anchor. You'll know the anchor is properly set when you feel resistance and observe the boat pulling back while the anchor holds firm. This resistance indicates that the anchor has dug into the seabed and established a secure grip, ensuring stability even in challenging conditions.

3. Monitoring swing radius

Maintaining awareness of your boat's swing radius is essential to prevent collisions with other vessels or obstacles while at anchor. Continuously monitor your surroundings and the movement of your boat in response to wind, current, and tide. Use fixed landmarks onshore or GPS systems to track your position relative to your anchor point. By monitoring your swing radius, you can proactively adjust your position if necessary to avoid potential hazards and ensure safe anchorage throughout your stay.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our Magazine .

Check out our latest sailing content:

Speed boat anchored in tropical exotic island

Essential anchoring tips

1. weather awareness.

Remain constantly vigilant and attuned to weather changes, as they can significantly impact the safety and security of your vessel. Be particularly mindful of forecasts predicting strong winds or storms, as these conditions can pose serious risks to anchored vessels. Ensure that your anchor is adequately secured and prepared to withstand the anticipated weather conditions. Regularly check weather updates and take proactive measures to safeguard your vessel and crew.

2. Routine inspections

Regular inspections of your anchor, chain, and rode are essential to maintaining their integrity and ensuring reliable performance. Over time, exposure to saltwater and environmental factors can cause wear and corrosion, compromising the effectiveness of these crucial anchoring components. Therefore, it's imperative to conduct routine checks to identify any signs of damage or deterioration promptly. Replace any worn or damaged components without delay to prevent potential anchor failure and mitigate risks while anchoring.

3. Proper storage

Effective storage of your anchor is vital for both safety and convenience on board your vessel. Improperly stowed anchors can pose hazards to crew members and damage to the vessel itself. Utilise dedicated anchor lockers or secure mounting systems to store your anchor safely when not in use. Ensure that the storage location is easily accessible and well-secured to prevent accidental dislodgement or shifting during rough seas or sudden manoeuvres. By prioritising proper storage practices, you can minimise the likelihood of accidents and ensure the efficient deployment of your anchor when needed.

4. Emergency procedures

Familiarise yourself and your crew with emergency anchor release procedures to be prepared for unforeseen circumstances requiring rapid anchoring. In emergency situations such as engine failure or loss of steering control, deploying the anchor quickly and effectively can be crucial for preventing drift, collision, or grounding. Establish clear protocols and designate responsibilities for emergency anchoring, including the location of emergency anchor release mechanisms and the steps for their activation. Regularly review and practise these procedures to ensure swift and coordinated responses in times of crisis.

5. Anchor type selection

Ensure you select the appropriate anchor type tailored to your vessel and the prevailing conditions you anticipate. Different anchor designs excel in specific seabeds and weather conditions. For example, a plough anchor proves effective in muddy bottoms, whereas a Danforth anchor is better suited for sandy or rocky substrates. Understanding the strengths of your anchor enhances its performance and guarantees a reliable hold.

6. Scope calculation

Calculate the correct scope, the ratio of anchor rode length to water depth, to guarantee adequate holding power. As a general guideline, employ a scope of 7:1 in calm conditions and extend it up to 10:1 in rough seas. Sufficient scope facilitates proper anchor setting and offers superior resistance against dragging or dislodgement.

7. Setting technique

Master the technique of firmly setting your anchor. Upon dropping the anchor, slowly manoeuvre your vessel in reverse while paying out the rode, enabling the anchor to embed into the seabed. Once the desired length of rode is reached, secure it and gradually increase engine power in reverse to set the anchor securely. This method ensures a robust hold and minimises the risk of anchor drag.

8. Monitoring and adjustment

Regularly monitor your vessel's position to confirm the anchor's secure hold. Utilise onshore visual references or GPS systems to track any movement. Should any dragging or shifting be detected, consider readjusting your position by resetting the anchor or deploying additional anchors for added stability. Remain vigilant to changing conditions and make necessary adjustments to maintain a safe anchorage.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite  sailing destinations.

I am ready to help you with booking a boat for your dream vacation. Contact me.

Denisa Nguyenová

33 Types of Boat Anchors: Which is Best?

Your car has a handbrake to hold it in place when needed. Similarly, boats have anchors. You slip them off the side of the boat and let them sink to the ocean floor, where they dig in stop your boat from drifting. You can use anchors in oceans and rivers too. But how do they work? Let’s look into specific types of boat anchors so we can find out which one suits you.

Parts of a Boat Anchor

First off, boat anchor types are further subdivided into six main categories. These are:

• Plow anchors – Hinged with a plow-like scoop
• Claw Anchors – Three forked claws
• Fluke Anchors – Hinged shank and flat flukes
• Hook Anchors – Hooks that fan out
• Wing Anchors – Solid angular one-piece wing
• Modern Anchors – Unorthodox hi-tech designs

On oceans or seas, these anchors work by digging into the seabed and using the weight of the chain to hold the ship in place. Things are a bit different in freshwater. But either way, most anchors are made of stainless steel or aluminum, and have the following parts:

• Fluke – This is the tip of the spikes or wings that dig into the waterbed.
• Shank – This is the ‘vertical’ piece of the anchor.
• Arms – These connect the fluke to the shank.
• Palms – These are the flattened sections of the fluke.
• Crown – Some anchors have a base piece that holds everything else together.
• Stock – In traditional anchors, the stock crosses the shank at the crown.
• Eye – At the top of the shank, the eye is a hole where you attach the line.
• Ring – This is a link that attaches the eye to the line.
• Shackle – Some anchor models use a shackle and pin in place of a ring.
• Pin – On some anchor models, this loops through the eye to lock the chain.
• Line – This can either be a link of chains or rope.
• Hinge – This connects the flukes to the shank if your anchor is a hinged model.

Incidentally, a shackle can be used to join several lengths of anchor chains. They may come in 90ft sections with a red shackle between them. The chain links on either side of the red joint are painted white. And a numbered code helps sailors see how much of the line is out. This is called marking the chain, and you can try it at any distance using rubber markers.

different types of boat anchors

Now let’s look at specific boat anchor types , where to use them, and how to tell them apart.

1. Hook Anchor

A hook anchor is sometimes called a grappling anchor. Grapnels were the first patented brand, but lots of others have followed suit. The hook anchor has four or more spiraling spikes called hooks. On some models, the hooks fold into an umbrella-like rod for storage.

2. Plough Anchor

Visually, plow anchors are a cross between claw, wing, and fluke anchors. It has a hinged shank, just like flukes. It has a single prong that’s shaped like a wing anchor. And the tip is shaped like the center fork on a claw anchor. Plow anchors are sometimes called scoops.

3. Claw Anchor

A claw anchor has three forks or claws that look a bit like a clover or a fleur-de-lys. These claws scoop up the sand or muck and release it to anchor the boat. The first trademark claw anchor was a Bruce, but these days, there are lots of generic claw anchors you can purchase.

4. Fluke Anchor

Pretty much all anchors have flukes. But the first trademarked fluke anchor was a Danforth. After the patent expired, other companies made anchors in this design – but they can’t call them Danforths so they have to use the generic name. Fluke anchors can fold flat for storage.

5. Wing Anchor

The first wing anchor ever was a Delta – that was its trademarked name. But today, lots of wing-style anchors are available on the market. Unlike other anchors that have separate parts, wing anchors are a single piece. Generic ones often have the shank welded to the fluke.

6. Spade Anchor

Spade anchors blend the best of delta and plow anchors. They got rid of that dreaded hinge on plow anchors. Unlike deltas, they have a bright yellow fluke with a centralized welding seam. If they fall sideways, the shape and chain pull the fluke back into the correct position.

7. CQR Anchor

CQR is the first plow anchor ever made, and once the patent expired, other brands started making generic versions. The downside of plow anchors is the lateral positioning of the hinge. When the boat tugs on the shank, the anchor often turns sideways and won’t set well.

8. Danforth Anchor

This trademark anchor is easily identifiable. It was the first anchor with a hinge and foldable flukes. The stock is a narrow rod anchored at the crown, pun intended. The shank is flexible, and this anchor can be folded and tucked away, but the anchor is useless on rocky ground.

9. Grapnel Anchor

A grapnel anchor is a modified hook anchor. Unlike regular hooks that are rigid and sturdy, grapnel hooks fold flat into a single rod-like structure. Also, unlike other anchors where the eye is at the opposite end of the shank, grapnel anchors have an eye under the folding hooks. Grapnel anchors (and other hook anchors) do better on rocky sea beds but are bad on sand.

10. Delta Anchor

This branded anchor is the first wing anchor ever made. It’s molded from a single metal sheet and has a single tooth or prong that’s shaped like an angular scoop. That triangular silhouette makes this the strongest anchor design around, and it often gets tweaked by rivals.

11. Bruce Anchor

The original patent claw anchor was a Bruce. This name-brand anchor was often made of stainless steel, which is pretty and shiny, but also quite expensive. The sturdy anchor was popularised on oil rigs. It’s molded from a single piece of metal with no stock and no seams.

12. Modern Anchor

Contemporary anchors try different shapes and styles to meet today’s sailing needs. They often pick bits and bobs from existing anchors, so they can be tough to classify. But examples of these experimental anchors include box anchors, Mooloolaba, Bulwagga, and Hurricane.

13. Mushroom Anchor

A mushroom anchor has a dome-shaped base that easily lets mud and swampy water filter through. It’s a lightweight anchor that uses a polyester line rather than a chain. This freshwater anchor is ideal for rivers and works best with jet skis , dinghies, and row boats.

14. Luke Anchor

A luke anchor sometimes called a fisherman’s anchor, is probably what you picture when you think about boat anchors . They have curved arms with a pointed crown and flukes. They also have a stock at the opposite end, which was meant to weigh down the anchor and hold it flat on the seabed. Many modern anchors have no stocks, opting for stronger pivots instead.

15. Stockless Anchor

Lots of modern anchors have eliminated the stock. Instead, they’ve been rebalanced to put more weight on the flukes. The stereotypical stockless anchor is a modified version with two large perpendicular flukes. The Japanese navy prefers these anchors over other navy styles.

16. Admiralty Anchor

Admiralties are fisherman’s anchors by another name. But while fisherman’s took their name from St. Luke, that famous fisher of men with a medical degree, the admiralty anchor is named after the initial UK government department that was in charge of the navy.

17. Ultra Anchor

The ultra anchor is an upgraded version of wing anchors. The lower surface has angles and planes that make it easier to recover your anchor. The hollow shank and curved lead-lined fluke tips sink the anchor deeper. This lets it set effectively even when it’s lying on its side.

18. Fob Anchor

In many ways, a fob anchor is just like a fluke anchor. Some models have a swinging shank while others have a stationary one.  The main difference is that the crown has finger grips at its tips. This makes it easier to lift the anchor when you want to shift it around or clean it.

19. Hall Anchor

A hall anchor is a stockless mooring anchor with a pronounced crown. The crown is bulky enough to stand flat, positioning the flukes at a vertical angle. This alignment lets the anchor sit heavier on the seabed, which provides a better grip and stops the anchor tipping sideways.

20. Rocna Anchor

Rocnas build on the success of deltas and spades. But while deltas have a V-cut above the welding joint and spades have a broader, concave surface with a centralized seam, rocnas have a hollow semicircular roll bar over the blade. It keeps the fluke from toppling sideways. Modified rocnas have shackle rails along the shank. Others like the Vulcan have no roll bar.

21. Bügel Anchor

Higher Rocnas (6 and beyond) have a shackle rail in addition to the eye. This lets the chain or line slide up and down the shank for easier retrieval. But bügel anchors combine the roll bar of Mantus anchors with a fluke that’s similar to spades and plows… except it’s flat.

22. Manson Ray Anchor

The Manson Ray is a brand name anchor designed in the claw style. It’s molded from a single sheet of metal and the side claws help it grip the ground. But like many claw anchors, it often tips sideways, leaving only one claw submerged, so it’s not as steady when it sets.

23. Britany Anchor

This modified fluke anchor does away with the hinged stock. Instead, the crown is welded to the flukes with a small crossbar, allowing the anchor to lie flat in the boat as well as the seabed. In theory, this makes it easier to bite into sand, seaweed, and other plant matter.

24. Fortress Anchor

A fortress anchor is a post-patent fluke anchor brand, meaning it was designed to mimic the Danforth. It’s made of aluminum and just like all fluke anchors, it has a crown made of vertical base plates. These help the anchor sit flat on the ocean floor. They work best in mud.

25. Box Anchor

A typical anchor needs sandy or muddy ground because it will skim over rocks and seaweed. But box anchors have a hollow box shape and outward-facing flukes on their top and bottom sides. This way, even if the anchor flips, it will course-correct into a 45° angle, even in murky beds. This is why box anchors don’t need chains. You can tie them directly to a rope or a line.

26. Freshwater Anchor

The main difference between freshwater anchors and saltwater anchors is their construction material. Marine anchors are made of galvanized steel, aluminum, or stainless steel, while freshwater anchors might have a protective vinyl film over a base of cast iron or carbon steel.

27. Mantus Anchor

Mantus anchors follow the example set by rocnas. They have a larger roll bar though. And unlike other wing anchors that are welded or molded, the Mantus comes in three separate pieces that need to be bolted together. Mantus anchors have a stronger downward push.

28. UHHH’ooooksHurricane Anchor

The hurricane is another mix-and-match contemporary anchor. It has two flat flukes and a roll bar. These work together to keep the blades flat on the seabed and sink them into the sand or mud. Depending on which model you purchase, hurricanes can be welded or bolted.

29. MoolojjuhihuihiMMooloolaba Anchor

Mooloolabas – sometimes called reef anchors – take their inspiration from folding grapnel anchors. The spiked flukes flank the shank to form acute angles and offer extra setting surfaces. Since the anchor has hook flukes on all four sides, even if the anchor topples, it can still grip the seabed sufficiently. Mooloolabas have ringed eyes on both ends of their shanks.

30. Bulwagga Anchor

Bulwagga anchors are quite popular, though they’re no longer in production. They have three flukes welded onto a hollow triangular base. Most anchors struggle on rocky ground because they slip over the surface. Bulwaggas are particularly good in sand, mud, even stony seabeds.

31. Nautical Navy Anchor

The Navy anchor is a variant of the fisherman’s, luke, or kedge anchor. The difference is that the stock is shorter and sits lower on the shank. The eye is bigger too. Of course, the anchors typically used by modern navies are stockless. But this icon is still popular as a sailor tattoo.

32. River Anchor

River anchors are smaller than marine ones. They are used in rivers, streams, ponds, or dams. The anchor has three ‘ears’ that tip the anchor onto its side when it hits that soft, mushy waterbed. The ears scoop and release any sand, weeds, or mud without getting tangled up.

33. Fisherman’s Anchor

Our last anchor has that stereotypical design. But it’s an upgrade of the St. Luke anchor that it was based on. Instead of a permanent stock, many fisherman’s anchors – also called kedge anchors – have an L-shaped stock with a ball-shaped tip. The stock is screwed into position.

Do you know any boat anchor types we haven’t mentioned? Share them in the comments!

Related posts:

3 tips to choose the best marine battery charger for your boat.

• How To Choose A Pedal Boat?
• Can You Go on a Boat While Pregnant? (10 Tips)
• 10 Tips to Choose the Right Generator for Your Boat

Similar Posts

Gel Coat vs. Marine Paint for Boats: Which is Better?

Once you purchase a brand new, shiny boat, you will want to keep it undamaged as long as possible. However, chances are not on your side since weather elements will leave traces. Plus, you can’t avoid scratches or water stains that appear over time. Although most new boats come with gel-coating, you have two options…

How inconvenient would it be if your laptop, tablet, or mobile phone battery went dead in the middle of you reading this article? Now imagine the stakes are a bit higher- while out at sea at a reasonable distance from shore, your boat batteries went dead! I imagine that would be a stressful and uncomfortable…

How Much Does It Cost to Dock a Boat? (Price Chart)

When you have a vessel, you probably wonder how much does it cost to dock a boat. Renting a slip (berth) in a US marina typically costs $12 to $240 per 1 foot (0.3 m) of the boat’s length a year. Roughly, most marinas will rent a spot for $50/ft a year on average. In…

How Much Does a Boat Cover Cost? (Price Chart)

Anyone lucky to have a boat knows that its protection is crucial, particularly during cold winter days. Therefore, you should consider purchasing or sewing an adequate boat cover. It will protect your vessel from dirt accumulation, moisture, and harmful UV rays. The best cover model will depend on the boat type and size and your…

How Much Does It Cost to Re-Gelcoat a Boat? (5 Facts)

Although your boat has been a faithful companion in water adventures for years, once a radiant vessel loses its splendor over time. Therefore, it is necessary to restore it, but many boat owners wonder how to achieve it. Luckily, it is possible by removing the old gel coating from the boat hull and re-coating with…

8 Typical Boat Steering Problems (Fix Tips)

Has your boat steering wheel stopped all of a sudden? Or, does it feel too weird to turn? If yes, you might want to keep reading this post because it looks like you’re facing a steering problem, and the causative factor can be complicated to pinpoint. Below are the four typical boat steering problems for…

One Comment

Thank you very much for your thorough effort in defining and explaining the different types of anchors. Hesham from Egypt!

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

Boat Anchor Selection Guide: Choose the Perfect Type & Size

When you buy a used boat, odds are it will come with an anchor, and with a new boat you'll usually get to choose an anchor for it. What if that old anchor you have on your new-to-you boat doesn't hold so well, or needs replacing? In any of those scenarios, you'll need to pick out a new anchor for your boat. There are more types of anchors that you dreamed of, and they're all different in how they perform in different anchoring conditions. And your anchor will need to be sized for your boat.

The type of anchor you choose depends on the predominant bottom types where you plan to sail, and what fits on your boat. Once you know the type, you get the perfect type and size of anchor from the length and weight of your boat using the manufacturers' recommendations.

On this page:

How does an anchor work, loads and forces on an anchor, anchor construction materials, most common anchor styles, how do i choose an anchor, what's in your anchor locker, picking the right anchor ground tackle.

Instead of getting overwhelmed, if you do a little research upfront on what you might need you can narrow down your choices and get the best anchor for your boat and where you use it.

While it may seem obvious at first glance, there are many mistaken assumptions about just how your anchor holds your boat to the bottom. It's important to understand just what your anchor does when it's holding your boat, so you know why you may choose one anchor or another.

All anchors dig into the bottom. Some have aggressive, plow-like forms or scoops which burrow in quickly, others have various hooks, spikes or protrusions designed to catch and hook as soon as the anchor is pulled.

Angle of attack provides holding power

The pulling force on an anchor is along the shank, and for an anchor to offer maximum holding power, it's crucial that the bulk of the load from the boat's pull is applied in this direction. If the pull is from the side, the anchor may break out. If the pull is from above the anchor, it definitely will.

Part of the role of the chain in your rode is to keep the rode flat on the bottom to make sure the loads from the boat are horizontal and along the direction of the shank.

Scope & chain provide angle and drag

Your anchor rode and how much scope you let out is as important to your choice of anchor to how well you hold. Chain has its own resistance to being dragged and adds extra holding, and as noted above, it also keeps the forces on the anchor from pulling it out.

The longer the scope, the better the angle of pull on the anchor. With a length of chain, the extra weight adds more holding the bottom, and a rope/chain rode gives extra shock absorption in the catenary of the rode.

You can learn more about how to select and install the right anchor rode by reading our detailed article here.

Orientation of anchors

Most modern anchors have a definite top and bottom, and will not set lying on their backs. These anchors flip and orient their blades down if they land the wrong way or break out. Many anchor designs dig in quickly with the anchor lying on its side, and may have roll bars or weights to keep them in a suitable setting orientation.

Some anchors, like grapnel anchors or the Bulwagga, had a radial symmetry and no true up or down. These don't need to reorient or right themselves. They will catch the bottom no matter how they lie, though not all the blades and hooks will help hold the anchor.

Good anchors will reset unnoticably

All anchors can break out and may get rolled as a boat swings at anchor and wind strength increases. An anchor's ability to reset is important. You don't want to drag long before your anchor sets again. With a good anchor, you won't even be aware it has broken out and reset, as it will happen quickly without your boat seeming to drag at all.

An anchor doesn't care at all about what kind of boat is on the other end of the rode, what it cares about is how much drag force is on the rode. A heavy boat in a light breeze may pull as hard on an anchor as a lighter boat in more wind. It's the force that counts, and you size your anchor by how much force you can expect to land on that anchor and rode.

Boat weight partially determines drag force

Your boat's weight is one of the two sources of drag force on your anchor. Heavier boats will pull more than light boats in the same condition. Many anchor vendors give tables of boat weight ranges which match to the best anchor size.

In wind, boat length is more important

Picture two boats with the same weight - a low-slung classic yacht with little freeboard , but a heavy full keel, and a more modern design with higher freeboard, less ballast, and about ten more feet of length. In windless conditions, they'll pull about the same against the anchor.

But in twenty knots of breeze, the longer boat with more freeboard will have a lot more pull. Here, the boat's length overrides the weight. A doubling of wind speed quadruples the load on the anchor, so this effect becomes more pronounced the higher the wind.

Anchors are made from three primary materials - galvanized steel , stainless steel , and aluminum .

Galvanized steel anchors are cheap

Galvanized anchors are the most common, as they are the least expensive, offer excellent weight, and are very durable and rugged. They can rust over time as the galvanization wears off, but provide the best cost to holding of all anchor construction material. You can re-galvanize an anchor at considerably less cost than replacing the anchor, if the original protection wears off.

Stainless steel anchors are expensive

Stainless steel anchors have similar strength to galvanized steel anchors combined with corrosion resistance. They look beautiful on the bow, but they are quite expensive at 3-5 times the cost of a similar galvanized anchor, and you'll want to pair them with a more expensive stainless chain. While they won't rust, they can get scratched and lose their shiny finish if you use them often. And there is a risk of crevice corrosion if stainless steel sits underwater too long.

Aluminum anchors don't rely on weight

Aluminum anchors are lightweight and strong, but may not have the holding power of heavier anchors of a similar size, and aluminum is not as strong as steel. They are popular with racers, and also for secondary anchors, because they are lighter and easier to handle. Aluminum anchors rely on bottom penetration to set, not weight.

The dozens of anchors available break down into a few general classes. Trying to organize all the choices by function helps you narrow the field to what may work best for you.

Claw anchor

Claw anchors, like the Bruce, have claw style blades to dig in and hold well for most conditions. They may struggle to dig in with a hard mud or clay bottom, but will reset well on other bottoms.

Plow anchor

Plow anchors are generally fixed, like the Delta, or have a hinge like the CQR. The fixed plows do well in everything but rocks, while the hinged CQR doesn't hold quite as well but responds better to the movement of the rode since there is a swivel.

Plow with Roll Bars

Modern designs like the Rocna and Spade incorporate a plow form on the blades, coupled with a roll bar. These have fantastic holding power and set easily. They don't fit as well on some older boats, and are more expensive.

Fluke anchor

The fluke anchors are great in mud and sand, but don't do as well with bottoms they can't penetrate or grass. The Danforth (and its clones) are popular with smaller boats, and the lightweight aluminum Fortress is a favorite with weight conscious ravers.

Fisherman's anchor

The traditional crossbar and hooks anchor is good for rocks. Some break down for storage, which makes them a popular choice for a storm anchor.

Grapnel anchor

Grapnels are fine anchors for dinghies, kayaks, PWCs and other small, light craft but don't do well with higher loads and larger boats.

Mushroom anchor

Small mushroom anchors can hold a small craft like a dinghy or kayak. Many permanent moorings are large mushroom anchors, where they can dig deep into the bottom. But they are not suitable for big boat use.

Other alternatives

This list isn't exhaustive. There is constant innovation in anchor technology, from the Bulwagga to various box anchors, which don't even look much like anchors as we think of them. All have their strengths and weaknesses, so research carefully and try to find someone with real-world experiences with them.

Remember, there is no "right" or perfect anchor, so look at a lot of options to see what fits your boating style.

The basic decisions you have to make about your anchor are the style, size, and material of your anchor. While we can't get into every type of anchor on the market and how it works for every boat, we can give you an overview of the decisions you must make.

What fits on your boat?

If you're adding a new anchor to an existing boat, you may have some natural limitations on what anchors you may choose.

With a bow roller sized for a plow or a nice Danforth bracket installed already, maybe those features limit your choices. You may switch between a CQR and a Delta with that anchor roller, but there's a good chance you can't fit a Rocna's roll bar up there without bending something. You could probably switch a Fortress out for a Danforth in that bracket, but you can not hang a plow from it.

Most anchor manufacturers give dimensional drawings of their products on their websites, so measure and even mock up something to see if it will go. On my boat, I shoved a Manson Supreme where a CQR went, but not without permanently bending a retaining pin. And I mocked the whole thing up in cardboard ahead of time to be sure.

Where will you anchor?

The range of where boat affects what to have in your bow locker. If you're a Chesapeake Bay sailor and you don't leave the bay, something that holds well in mud is a must and may be all you need. But a world cruiser needs something more effective across a range of bottom types.

Give careful thought to the places you’ll want to spend the night on your boat, especially the bottom types you'll find. In the end, you'll likely have more than one anchor, and you want to cover most of the holding types you'll encounter.

Choose your materials based on budget and style

This is a matter of budget and style, mostly. As a cruiser who spends almost every night at anchor, I can't see the sense of spending a fortune on a pretty anchor that spends most of its life hidden. But for some, adding that high gloss show to the bow of a Bristol condition yacht everyone can see most of the time, the aesthetic choice may make more sense.

When I raced, I had a Fortress because it met the requirements to have an anchor, but I ended up spending a couple of nights on it. It was easy to move around, but for vacations I still dragged the 35 lb. CQR out of the shed and put it in the bow locker.

Size your anchor based on boat length and weight

Sizing your anchor is most people's biggest worry. Remember, it's better to have too much anchor instead of not enough. You want to sleep soundly and leave your boat without worrying. If you're hauling your anchor up without a windlass, the extra pounds matter a lot more, but it's better to have extra.

It's not as hard as you think to size your anchor, because every single manufacturer publishes a guide to how to select the right product for your boat. Most of them have tables for boat length and boat weight, and we talked up above about how a boat's weight and windage affect anchor loads.

To size your anchor, follow these steps.

• Search the "by length" table for the length of your boat, and note the recommended size.
• Search for the weight of your boat, and note the recommended size.
• The correct anchor size for your boat is the larger of those two recommendations.

If they give a single number in the table, choose the next number above yours. If they use ranges and your boat is on the edge of a weight or length range, there's no harm in moving to the next size band. Don't move down bands; you don't want to undersize.

For an example, look at this sizing table for Spade Anchors. We've going to pick an anchor for a boat which is 53' long and weighs about 54,000 lbs.

Source: Anchor sizing chart on Spade Anchor USA

You'll see a boat length of 53' puts us at 59ft. and a 55 pound galvanized anchor. But by vessel weight, for 54,000 lbs., the recommended weight is 99 pounds.

So the larger of the two is 99 lbs., so that is the proper weight for this boat.

Most boats should have more than one anchor, so you will go through this process several times. You may need multiple anchors for the different bottom conditions you may come across. If you foul an anchor or lose one, a spare anchor and rode can literally be a lifesaver.

Other reasons for multiple anchors include a lighter anchor for a "lunch hook," though with an electric windlass this isn't much of a concern on bigger boats. You may want a smaller stern anchor in case you need to anchor where you don't want to swing, or it's important to keep your bow facing a direction other than into the wind. And finally, if you plan to cruise far from your home port, you may want a storm anchor.

Any of the anchor types we've discussed will fill many of the above roles, and you can use these tools to evaluate your boat and your plans to make the best choice for each job.

The next step is to select the right ground tackle. Ground tackle consists of everything that connects the anchor to your boat and is used to control the angle of attack, scope, and drag by adding or removing weight to the anchor.

I've written a detailed guide to help you to understand ground tackle in depth , which will help you select the perfect parts yourself.

Leave a comment

You may also like, how to measure your anchor chain size (two ways).

Buying new anchor your chain for your boat can be more complex than it sounds. You can't just walk into a marine store and order "A hundred meters of your best." …

How to Select and Install the Right Anchor Rode

How To Mark & Measure Anchor Chain & Rode (3 Ways)

Guide to Anchoring Ground Tackle - parts, checks, deployment

How Much Anchor Chain Should You Let Out When Anchoring?

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Different types of anchor – pros and cons

• February 16, 2015

When it comes to choosing between different types of anchor, there's a variety of factors to consider. Vyv Cox explains their strengths and weaknesses

Anchor expert Vyv Cox reviews the relative merits of different types of anchor Credit: Abner Kingman

Anchors have evolved dramatically over the decades. There is now a selection of anchor types designed to suit a variety of scenarios. Choosing the right anchor is crucial in terms of safety and how they will perform on where you plan on dropping. We’ve rounded up each type of anchor whether that be the traditional ‘Fisherman’ or the suite of ‘New generation’ anchors which have revolutionised anchors and scored extremely well in holding tests. Whatever anchor you choose, beware of cheap unbranded copies. We’ve also covered below what you need to keep an eye out for in regards to spotting a copy, these pose a risk due to rarely having the precise geometry needed to maximise holding power, some are also badly cast and therefore far weaker than their original design.

Different types of anchor – pros and cons

The Fisherman’s tiny flukes will drag in sand or mud

The Fisherman holds well on rock and weed, but its tiny flukes are likely to drag on any other bottom, ruling it out in most anchorages. Fishermen anchor where the fish are, over reefs and rocky outcrops. It isn’t the end of the world if their anchor drags. They simply re-anchor, or pack up and go home. These anchors are difficult to handle and need to be extremely heavy to provide adequate holding. Most of us don’t anchor overnight on rocks or weed, so there is really no advantage in carrying one.

• Holds well on rock and weed
• Difficult to handle
• Need to be extremely heavy to provide adequate holding

Plough anchors, like this Delta, can live up to their name

Like their agricultural namesake, CQR, Delta and Kobra II anchors drag when pulled hard enough, tilling the sea bed. The actual load at which they drag varies. My Delta once dragged badly in soft mud, admittedly in extreme gusting winds. Yachting Monthly’s 2006 anchor test is widely held to be one of the most realistic. It placed new-generation anchors firmly at the top for holding, Delta in the middle, CQR and Bruce firmly at the bottom. So why are the latter two so popular? Almost all tests compare 25lb (11kg) anchors, whereas world-girdling yachts carry CQRs of 55lb (25kg) or more. Anchors whose tip loading is not maximised need lots of weight to set. The CQR’s tip loading is 12-16% of total weight. Deltas (and presumably the very similar Kobra II) have good tip loading, about 28%, helping them to set easily but ultimately dragging at high loads.

• Have good tip loading – set easily
• Drag at high loads
• Don’t perform as well for holding as New Generation

A copy may look convincing, but it’s more likely to snap

CQR and Bruce copies have been around for years; now there are Delta knock-offs, too. Copies of new-generation anchors will surely follow. In some cases it takes only a cursory inspection to see that copies are crudely made, welded in ways that an amateur would be ashamed of and with minimal galvanising. Cast types are more difficult to assess by eye but they’re likely made from cast iron, which is brittle and has very low tensile strength. You’ll find photos of snapped ones on the Internet. There are cast iron versions of the genuine CQR, recognised by the weight marked in lbs, ending in ½. These also tend to be brittle and will snap if impacted hard enough.

• Crudely made
• Brittle, low strength, easily snapped

Flat anchors

The Britany, like other flat anchors, can’t be trusted to re-set when the tide turns

Danforth, Britany, FOB, Fortress and Guardian anchors have a large surface area for their weight, thus they hold extremely well in soft-to-medium bottoms. Setting on these bottoms is also good, thanks to sharp fluke tips, at an optimum angle for penetration. On hard bottoms such as packed sand and shingle they may tend to skid without setting. Their only drawback: they tend not to reset when the tide or wind changes the direction of pull. A flat anchor in lightweight aluminium is thus the ideal kedge, but few choose them as a bower anchor.

• Large surface area, hold extremely well soft-medium
• Good setting due to sharp fluke tips
• Skid on hard bottoms
• Tend not to reset during wind/tide changes

Few claws are as good as the original Bruce

The genuine Bruce has not been made for very many years. It was made from cast steel, a strong and tough material. A huge number of copies have been produced, often in low-grade, brittle and weak materials. The original Bruce had precise fluke angles, unlike many copies. The genuine item sets and holds well in soft-to-medium bottoms, is said to hold on rock, but its long leading edge struggles to cut through weed. Again, big, heavy ones work far better than small ones.

• Strong and tough
• Precise fluke angles
• Sets and holds well in soft-to-medium bottoms
• Rare, out of circulation for many years
• Long leading-edge struggles to cut through weed

New generation

New generation anchors have flat or concave flukes and heavily weighted tips. This Spade has a tip loading of 47%

This category includes the Bügel, Manson Supreme, Rocna, Sarca and Spade. The first of these, the Bügel, has a flat, thick fluke with relatively low surface area, a plate shank and a roll bar. The design makes it easy and relatively cheap to manufacture although ultimately, at wind speeds probably never encountered by the vast majority of yachts, its holding may be slightly less good.

The Manson and Rocna are broadly similar, with tip loadings around 35% of total weight, plate shanks and roll bars. The Spade does not have a roll bar. Its tip loading is the highest of all, at 47% of its overall weight. The design is complex, with a hollow shank that separates from the fluke for stowage. The setting and holding of all of these designs is excellent; the Spade in particular has won many anchor tests. The Sarca achieved very high holding in recent tests, but it’s scarce in the UK.

• High tip-loading
• Award-winning anchor test result
• Easy and cheap to manufacture
• Holding may be slightly less good
• Sarca brand is scarce in the UK

For a full lowdown on our recommendations when it comes to ‘New generation’ anchors, check out our feature Best anchors: 8 new generation designs suitable for every boat

Enjoyed reading this?

A subscription to Yachting Monthly magazine costs around 40% less than the cover price .

Print and digital editions are available through Magazines Direct – where you can also find the latest deals .

YM is packed with information to help you get the most from your time on the water.

• Take your seamanship to the next level with tips, advice and skills from our experts
• Impartial in-depth reviews of the latest yachts and equipment
• Cruising guides to help you reach those dream destinations

Follow us on Facebook , Twitter and Instagram.

Types of Anchors: How to Choose the Right Size Anchor

Most new boats do not come equipped with an anchor, but every boat should have one on board. You may want to drop the anchor to hold the boat in a secluded cove for an afternoon of relaxation or even an overnight stay , or just to hold your boat over fishing structure.

The anchor is most important as a critical item of safety gear . If you should lose power, it’s the anchor that’s going to keep your boat from drifting into peril, be it rocks or another shoal, or the dangers of a surf-swept shoreline. The best anchor first depends on the size and type of your boat.

A tall sportfishing boat or power cruiser that can catch a lot of wind will need heavier gear, for example, then a low-profile bass boat . Boats used for long-distance cruising may need to anchor in rough weather, and on a variety of bottoms, and thus will need not only heavier gear but also several different anchors suitable for different bottom conditions.

How to Anchor a Boat: Step-by-Step Guide

Consult a Boat Anchor Size Chart

Anchor manufacturer guidance, usually based on boat length, can be a good starting point to determine which size anchor is appropriate for your boat. If your boat is heavier than typical boats of that length, or presents more windage, you should select a larger anchor.

The same logic applies if you frequent an area with high winds. Generally, the bigger the anchor, the better, but the anchor’s holding power in the bottom, rather than its weight, is what really matters. Always keep your ground tackle (the anchor and its rode, or line) ready to deploy at a moment’s notice.

Types of Boat Anchors 

Once you have a better idea of what size anchor you need for your boat, you'll also want to consider the type of anchor. Let's explore some of the most popular options available for boaters when it comes to anchors.

Mushroom Anchor

Very large mushroom anchors are used for moorings or securing buoys. Small mushroom anchors may be effective in the softest river bottom but have minimal holding power. They should be used only for personal watercrafts , small aluminum fishing boats , or dinghies .

Danforth or Fluke Anchor

This style of anchor is a good choice for smaller boats because it folds flat and is easy to stow, and has great holding power for its weight. Its wide, sharp flukes sink into sand and hard-mud bottoms, but are less effective in deep mud or a grassy bottom. If the wind shifts and boat drifts over the anchor and then in the opposite direction from which it was set, a Danforth anchor can pull free.

Plow Anchor

A plow anchor is a little more cumbersome than a Danforth, and is a good choice if the anchor is secured on a bow roller rather than in an anchor locker in the boat. A plow anchor has a single penetrating point and is more likely to reset itself if boat position changes. It can be more effective than the Danforth in light grass, has the strength to hold in a rocky bottom if it gets a good grip, and does well in soft bottoms.

Claw Anchor

This non-folding anchor is similar to the plow anchor, but has a broader scoop shape that works well in mud, clay or sandy bottoms. These anchors are also strong enough to hold on a rocky bottom. A claw anchor will re-set quickly if the wind changes. It may not work well on a very hard bottom, or in thick vegetation, both challenging for all types of anchors. This anchor is also best-suited to installation with a bow roller or windlass .

Grapnel Anchor

Shaped like a grappling hook, this anchor has multiple tines or points, and is designed to grab onto structure on the bottom—such as rocks or submerged timber—rather than sink into the bottom. The tines usually fold up along the shank so that the anchor is more compact for stowage. On some models the tines are designed to bend to make it easier to retrieve the anchor if it becomes snagged on bottom structure. The tines can them be bent back into shape. Grapnel anchors are available in many sizes, including very small models for jon boats , skiffs or small boats , like kayaks.

Read Next: How to Tie Up a Boat: Mooring Guide

You May Also Like:

• Boat Essentials: What Supplies Do I Need for My Boat?
• 5 Basic Boating Knots for Beginners
• How to Dock a Boat
• What is the Best Way to Avoid Running Aground?
• Find the Right Boat for Your Lifestyle

Join Our Newsletter!

Get community news, buying bargains, and how-to guides at your fingertips.

Everything You Need To Know About Boat Anchors (A Quick Read)

• Post Written By: Boater Jer
• Published: September 12, 2019
• Updated: July 8, 2022

Disclaimer: You might notice that we recommend products in some articles. We may earn a commission for referring you if you click the link and buy a product.

We only recommend products we’ve tried/tested/own (that’s why you won’t find thousands of affiliate links on my site). If you have experience with one of the products we’ve mentioned, please share your experiences in the comments at the end.

Updated November 27, 2020.

Most people enjoy being on boats. The smell of the water, the feel of the wind in your hair, and being around people you enjoy. It can make for a fun day. But at the end of the day, when you pull the boat back to shore, you will have to make sure that your boat stays in place. This is the job of boat anchors.    

There are a number of different types of boat anchors including the claw, plow, mushroom, kedge, fluke, grapnel, and more. Using the correct anchor for your boat is essential for safety and effectiveness.

Before we begin, I’ll start by saying that anchors can be confusing. They have names that don’t really describe them, there are a lot of figures and information associated with them that may or may not change how well it performs for your particular situation, and – let’s face it – most of the online guides about anchors are not helpful unless you’re already somewhat experienced with them. With this in mind, before we get into the different types of anchors, I would like to first go over some anchor basics.    

Boat Anchors 101    

Before You Can Anchor  Like boats, anchors come in all different shapes and sizes. Before you can even begin thinking about what kind of anchor you will need, you will need to have some basic knowledge.     

1. Your Boat 

You will need to know some basic information about your boat. Primarily, the most important elements are the size and weight of your boat. As an example, a ten thousand pound yacht will need a different anchor than a twenty-foot fishing boat.    

2. Your Destination 

Where are you setting your anchor? Is it a rocky bottom coastline or a sandy-bottomed river? This will also change the type of anchor you will need.    

3. Your Weather 

Setting your anchor down when the weather is calm and you have no worries of a storm approaching is one thing. It is a much different task than setting your anchor down in bad weather. This will also heavily influence the type of anchor you will need to use.    

Anchoring Recommendations    

The best thing to remember about anchors is that bigger is usually better. This comes into play in case of emergencies, when freak weather happens and you have nothing else holding your boat in place but that anchor. If this happens, you will be happy you got the biggest anchor your boat could safely hold onboard without sinking when your anchor does not lose its grip or its holding power.     

It is highly recommended that your boat has an anchor. The boat anchor should have the size and strength needed to hold it in place for an extended period. This is also important in case you decide to stop overnight. Or you run into an emergency, such as running out of gas.    

Safety in numbers is as true in anchoring as it is in most other places. It is a recommended practice to have two different anchors of different types if you have space, as this will give you the most versatility in the most types of water body bottoms.    

As with everything, it is always best to plan ahead. If you can, consult maps and charts of your destination. This will help you narrow down places you can safely anchor if you are staying for an extended time, or if you are just visiting. Have a few different spots in mind that will probably be ideal for you to set your anchor down. Be aware of your surroundings and of the weather, as these can change and might mean you have to change your locations or plans accordingly.     

Anchoring Terms 

Anchoring has a glossary of terms associated with it that you will need to be familiar with to be able to make an educated and informed decision about what exactly you need.    

1. Holding Power 

This is how anchors are rated, and it is almost exactly what it sounds like. Holding power is the anchor’s ability to hold a certain weight. Generally, these will be rated based on the size of the boat they are designed for. For instance, an anchor designed for boats up to twenty-seven feet might have a holding power of six hundred pounds.    

2. Ground Tackle 

The ground tackle is the whole kit and caboodle for the anchor – the anchor, the chain, the line, and everything in between. This is the anchor itself and all of the equipment you need to be able to anchor yourself.    

3. Working Anchor 

This is your regular, everyday anchor. If you have only a single anchor on your boat, this will likely be the only one you have. It should be able to support your boat if light storms or winds come in if tides rise and in most average situations. This is the anchor you can set down and not worry about your boat drifting off, even if you are not on it or if your whole crew has gone to sleep.    

4. Lunch Hook 

This is an “easy-weather” anchor, which is generally smaller than the working anchor. This one is useful if you’re only stopping for a moment and your crew is still able to keep an eye on everything. You would not want to set your lunch-hook down in anything other than calm weather and waters.    

5. Storm Anchor 

This is the anchor for when it has really hit the fan. Storms unlike any you have ever seen before are coming in, waves are crashing, and everything has gone to hell in a matter of moments. This is the anchor you set down in this case. It will generally be strong enough to withstand just about anything thrown at it and, by extension, is likely to be your heaviest anchor. Not everyone will need one of these, and most commonly they are reserved for vessels that anchor in open water often.    

Boat Anchor Materials 

Boat anchors can be made from a few different metals, each with their own positive and negative qualities. Generally, you will see these made of galvanized metal, stainless steel, or aluminum.    

1. Galvanized Metals 

Galvanized metals (usually it’s steel) are relatively inexpensive and very strong. The metals are also waterproof as long as the galvanization holds up. The downside to that is the galvanization does wear off. Also, if you are worried about the cosmetic appeal, galvanized metals are not as attractive as some of the other options.    

2. Stainless steel 

Stainless steel is like galvanized steel’s big brother. It is corrosion resistant and does not rely on a coating to be this way, so you do not have to worry about it losing its corrosion-resistant properties. It is also just as strong as galvanized steel. While it is the more cosmetically appealing option, the finish can be damaged due to the very nature and purpose of the anchor.    

3. Aluminum 

Aluminum is a bit of a newcomer to the world of boat anchors. It is a lightweight metal, meaning that you will often get an equal holding power to a steel anchor with a lower anchor weight. However, it costs significantly more than a steel anchor.    

Types of Boat Anchors    

Claw Anchor 

Claw anchors are a popular choice amongst recreational boaters – one of the most popular in the market, as a matter of fact. This design was originally known as the Bruce anchor thanks to their original creators, the Bruce Anchoring Company. Many imitations have come along since their patent lapsed in the early 2000s.      

This type of anchor has a good general-purpose design. It sometimes has a difficult time penetrating harder surfaces like clay or tightly packed rocks, but with most water body bottoms – be it sand, dirt, coral, or grass – it will dig in with ease. Because it has three tines, it is easier to set and reset than many other designs. Its unique shape also allows it to pivot a full three hundred sixty degrees without breaking its hold.    

One of the major downsides to this style of anchors is that the claw has a lower holding power per pound, which means that you will likely need a heavier anchor than you would of another design.    

Plow Anchor 

Among blue water cruisers, the plow anchor remains a popular choice even though it is one of the oldest anchor styles on the market. These are available either with a hinge (known as the CQR) or without the hinge (referred to as the Delta). The plow is also commonly the standard boat anchor installed by manufacturers and, by extension, is likely the most popular anchor on the market.     

Plow anchors work by “digging in” to the surface when it is dropped into the water and then pulled. Because of this, plow anchors are not as effective on the soft or loose ground because they can be pulled right out with enough force. Even with this downside in mind, however, these types of boat anchors are responsive to the wind and tide changes.    

Another trait of the plow anchor is that they are rarely found in weights under twenty-five pounds, which means that often they will be a heavier anchor than another that might be able to perform equally well for your vessel.    

Fluke Anchor 

Fluke anchors, also known as “Danforth” anchors, work by using flukes on each side of the anchor to dig in and bury both itself and part of the anchor line. These are common on smaller recreational boats because they are relatively light for the amount of holding power they can muster, but can come in weights ranging from two pounds to two hundred pounds.     

Because fluke anchors rely on burying themselves from their impact on the water body’s bottom, these types of boat anchors prove to be almost entirely ineffective on harder surfaces like rock or coral. Their best place to be used is on mud or sandy bottoms, where the fluke anchor will be able to show just how effective it is. Fortunately, most bottoms are made up of these materials. Even those boaters who do not use these as a primary anchor often have a fluke anchor as a secondary or stern anchor.    

Kedge Anchor 

This is not an anchor type you will see very often outside of very large ships, as they rely primarily on their weight to hold the vessel in place – which means you will need a heavy kedge anchor for it to be effective. This is the more “traditional” or stereotypical style of anchor you will see, with a long stock and two or more fluke arms projecting from the stock.      

Kedge anchors, also called “navy” anchors, work by digging one of the fluke arms into a crevice below. Unlike many other types of anchors, these actually do not bury both of their flukes into the bottom, but rather bury one and leave the other exposed. Because of this, loose surfaces are not ideal for these types of anchors as they will not be able to adequately dig in to provide their full holding power.    

Mushroom Anchor 

Yes, mushroom anchors get their name from their shape. They look something like upside-down mushrooms. These are used extensively for permanent moorings, such as buoys and beacons.     

At the beginning of setting these anchors in place, the most effective material for them to be dropped on is a softer substance such as sand or dirt. This allows the small indent on the “cap” of the mushroom anchor to create a powerful suction link. Over time, as sediment builds up around them, they can create a very strong holding power.     

Mushroom anchors are generally not appropriate for temporary holding, except for on smaller watercraft. This is because the largest part of their holding power is developed over time, rather than all at once as is the case with most boat anchors.     

Grapnel Anchor 

Grapnel boat anchors are popular amongst fishermen and in the smallest vessels such as canoes and dinghies. These will most often be made of either bent rebar or some kind of galvanized metal. Generally, the ones made of galvanized metals fold up to a very compact form and are easy to stow on a smaller boat. These are generally going to be your most inexpensive anchor but may not have much-holding power.     

Grapnels work best in bottoms where they have something to grip on to, like a large rock or outcropping below. This is where all of their holding power comes from. This can also work against the boat’s occupants as it can make the anchor difficult to retrieve. It is also generally accepted that grapnels can make to be good lunch hooks, but for anything more permanent than that they will fall short of their intended goal.             

Bibliography

• Anchoring.com
• Westmarine.com

More From Boating Guide

More from boating guide magazine.

• The Complete Runabout Boat & Trailer Towing Guide
• 4 Common Types Of Propulsion For Boats
• Before You Buy Guide: Understanding Fish Finders And GPS
• Winterizing Your Boat
• A Complete Catamaran Guide
• Better Boating At Night & How To Survive The Darkness
• Boating Gear Requirements For Canada And USA Waters
• Staying Safe On A Catamaran: 24 Essential Tips
• Aluminum vs. Fiberglass Bass Boats
• Are Bass Boats Good For Shallow Water?

Boating Guide Home * A bout Boating Guide * About The Author

replicareview.io

Share this post with your friends.

• Tags: anchor basics , anchor types , boat anchor

Subscribe to our Newsletter

Join us in our love for all things water. And Adventure.

When Is A Boat Called A Yacht? (Find Out Here – FAST)

When is a boat called a yacht? Let’s find out. The marine community interchangeably uses boats, ships, and yachts. Even though these watercraft mostly sound the same, there are distinct differences among the three. Boats can refer to watercraft ranging from personal vessels to something that can carry one or more passengers. Yachts sound more

Everything You Want To Know About Neel Trimarans

You can determine Neel Trimarans by the number of its hulls. A hull is the lower part of a boat that meets the water; it is that part of a ship that projects into the water. In monohulls, the hull has a keel attached to its hull. Monohulls have only one hull; as the “mono”

Boat Trailer Tire Guide

A boat trailer tire is something that is neglected by most everyday people. In other words, a tire is an underrated part. However, the main question arises that is a tire underrated, or is it just a myth? This section deals with the factors and facts that are related to the boat trailer tire. It’s

PowerRay Wizard Underwater Drone – Nothing Short of Awesome.

The PowerRay Wizard Underwater Drone is a feat of technology at a budget price. It’s no wonder this thing won so many awards. Find out how to get yours with extras.

Can You Use A Bass Boat In Saltwater?

Bass boat in saltwater? Really? Going fishing on a fine sunny day might come to your mind. However, you only have a bass boat as your best companion. It leaves you to question if you can use your boat in saltwater? Saltwater contains a tremendous amount of salt, as the name suggests. This salt speeds

Most people enjoy being on boats. The smell of the water, the feel of the wind in your hair, and being around people you enjoy. It can make for a fun day. But at the end of the day, when you pull the boat back to shore, you will have to make sure that your boat stays in place. This is the job of the boat anchor.

Boat Information By Type

© 2023 Boating.Guide, A Hyperwave Media Group Ltd. Publication.

Privacy Overview

7 Different Types of Boat Anchors You Should Know

An anchor is one of the most important parts of a ship. The boat’s anchor provides stability for the ship to stay in its location no matter which direction the wind blows or how strong it is. Anchors are long metal chains with sharp hooks or barbed heads at each end that grab onto the bottom of the water and pull down deep into it to keep the boat steady.

The boat anchor is a heavy weight that sits on the bottom of a boat to keep it from moving at all. Anchors are usually made of steel and weigh up to 3,000 pounds. They can be thrown from the back or front of a ship, but they have been known to become stuck in the ground as well. Once an anchor has been set, it can be recovered by pulling on a rope attached to it.

History of Boat Anchor

History of the boat anchor is so complicated that some scholars have found it difficult to define what exactly constitutes a boat anchor. According to literature, while some historical records claim the anchor is an early invention, while others claim it was invented during the 1500s. Additional sources suggest that anchors are more recent inventions because they are not mentioned in any writings about shipbuilding prior to 725 AD.

The modern boat anchor is a metal device designed to be fixed to the bottom of a floating vessel to keep it from drifting. It was invented by the English engineer, James Dredge in 1837, and was originally known as a “Drift Anchor.” The first anchor was made of iron and weighed about 350 pounds. This design prevented boats from forming keels that could cut into the seabed and got stuck on rocks.

Types of Boat Anchors for Different Boats

What’s the best type of anchor for your boat? Since there are so many types of boats and water depths, it can be hard to answer this question. You need to consider how much weight your boat can hold and if you’ll be anchoring in sand or mud.

From small dinghies to cruise liners, all with different boat anchors. What anchor should your boat have depends on what type of boat you have and where you plan to use it. Of course, if you don’t know what anchor is best for your boat then it might be a good idea to consult a professional who can help you find the right one for your needs.

Admiralty anchor

Admiralty anchors are designed to be fitted to the bow of large ships, and are the most common type used on naval vessels. They are large, heavy anchors that can span up to 4 meters across. A series of ropes called “cat heads” is placed around the anchor so it does not catch or sink when its weight is borne by them alone.

The Admiralty anchor was first used for this purpose by the Royal Navy in 1887. Admiralty anchors are often used in waters that are too deep for other types of anchor to reach the bottom. This is because they are heavy, weighing up to 10 tons. They have a curved shank which penetrates sand and silt before being pulled out, which helps it to set in place. It has an iron stock at its head with a ring to attach it to a ship’s cable or chain.

Stockless anchor

One of the most common sources for an emergency anchor is a stockless anchor. Anchors have been used as a means of transportation since ancient times. The first anchors were made from logs with stones as weights, and as time progressed, the design was improved upon to include metal components. The stockless anchor has been around since the 1800s and continues to be popular today due to its effectiveness in holding a boat in place.

Usually made of metal, that holds a ship in place. A stockless anchor is special because it does not have the pivot point called the stock. This means that it can be set against anything other than hard surfaces without being damaged. They are also easier to stow on board because they are thinner and lighter.

With this new design, its necessary to carry an additional line called a drogue. The anchor is positioned at the bow and attaches to the ship using the drogue. Once deployed, the drogue will be dragged through the water behind the ship and pull down on the anchor until it reaches the seafloor.

Danforth anchor

Danforth boat anchor is a type of anchor that has a round shape and one long arm at the top. It also has a fluke or two bent arms, which provide a large surface area to dig into the ground. The design was developed by Thomas Danforth in 1807. This anchor is predominantly used for use on boats but can also be used as an anchoring device for light vehicles, such as cars and trucks.

For all-around use, Danforth boat anchors are a solid choice. These anchors are reliable in providing a secure grip on the seafloor to withstand the powerful waves of the ocean. They are also durable, making them last for many years. Most importantly, they have an easy release so even if you lose your anchor it still stays intact and usable for another day. The design is still the same as the original design, but it’s now made of stainless steel instead of cast iron.

CQR plough anchor

CQR plough boat anchors are a type of anchor installed in the bow of a vessel. They are designed to be light and effective, with a black powder-coated finish that resists corrosion. The CQR plough is a self-righting anchor with a narrow, flat blade that penetrates sand and mud bottoms quickly and with ease. The CQR plough boat anchor is an essential piece of equipment for every vessel.

The CQR plough boat anchor was invented in 1822 by Sir Charles Pasley. It consists of a large front fluke, which are the are shaped like an arrowhead, and a broad square stock behind it. This design eliminates the need for a second set of arms to hold the stock up, as with traditional plough boat anchors. In addition to being more efficient, this design also is easier to manufacture.

Bruce or claw anchor

There are many types of anchors that can be used for boats. One of the most common types is called a claw anchor. It has a set of claws, teeth, or hooks that latch onto rocks and other material on the sea floor to hold the boat in place. These anchors are very popular because they are light and easy to deploy. Claw style anchors can also be lifted easily if conditions change and you need to relocate your position quickly.

However, not all anchors are the same. Bruce anchors are a more affordable option from what is typically sold at boat retailers. Claw boat anchors are more expensive and have been known to be more effective in difficult waters.

Spade anchor

A spade anchor is actually an old design that utilizes a concave shape to help draw water up over its edges and out the top of the surface. The Spade Boat Anchor is a great way to get your boat to stay in one spot. The anchor is a two-piece design made from steel and weighs 10 lbs. It has a 2 inch by 8 inch spade that you can easily attach to any boat with an eyelet or shackle.

The spade anchor is a boat anchor designed to be used in sand, mud, or other soft bottoms. It is shaped like an inverted spoon, so it can create a large surface area on the ocean floor. The pointed head of the spade anchor digs into the bottom and the pointed tail keeps the boat from swinging around when it reaches its maximum depth. A spade anchor is most often used in smaller boats where there is little room for storage space.

Northill anchor

Northill boat anchor is a simple mechanical device to hold a boat in place. The Northill boat anchor has 2 main parts, the arm and the lead weight. It attaches to the bow of the boat through two steel cables. The Northill Boat Anchor is primarily used for keeping your boat in place on calm waters with large waves. This is due to its design which can absorb sudden impacts from waves.

Northill boat anchor is a sturdy and reliable anchor that has been in use for over 50 years. This heavy-duty anchor was designed to be used when deploying a boat at sea when strong currents or high waves are present. The design makes this anchor the only reliable choice when it is windy and rough outside. Boat owners can be assured that their boat will stay in its safe harbor no matter what type of weather they may face.

How to Choose a Boat Anchor

Anchoring a boat is an important part of boating safety and can be accomplished by using any type of anchor, but boat anchors are made for the specific purpose. They come in different sizes and styles so it’s important to choose one based on your needs.

Anticipating a purchase of a boat anchor can be an overwhelming process. Many people have no idea what they need to consider when choosing one type over another. Here are some key points to keep in mind when you’re looking for a new boat anchor.

Anchor Material

Buying a new anchor sounds like a simple task, but there are many factors that need to be considered before making your decision. The size of the boat and type of ground is just one consideration. Getting input from professionals can make sure you get the right product for your needs.

Anchor materials also play a big role in determining which anchor to buy and what type of performance you will get when it’s time to set the anchor. There are four major types of anchor materials: aluminum, steel, galvanized steel and stainless steel.

Anchor Size

Anchors come in many different shapes and sizes. For people who are new to anchoring, it is not always clear which size of anchor should be purchased because it can depend on the type of boat. First, select the type of boat you will be using the anchor for. If you are using your anchor to anchor a small boat like a sailboat, then an anchor with a capacity of 10-15 pounds would suffice. However, if you plan on using this same anchor to anchor a larger vessel such as a yacht or cruise ship, then you may want to consider purchasing one that has more than 15 pounds of holding power. The reason why anchors vary so much in their capacities is due to how they are designed.

Choose an anchor shape

When choosing an anchor, it is important to take into consideration the shape of the anchor before buying one. When buying an anchor, there are two types – a fluke or a plow. A fluke is pointed at both ends and used by most recreational boaters. A plow is pointed in only one direction and is typically used by commercial ships. If you plan on using your anchor for fishing purposes, make sure that it’s shaped like a plow because this will allow you to use it with multiple hooks without having to worry about losing them.

Anchor types for different water depths

Different anchor types are needed for anchoring in different depths of water. Lightweight anchors are best suited for anchoring on shallow sand or mud bottoms with less than 10 fathoms of water, whereas heavy-duty anchors are usually used to hold boats on the ocean floor at depths of more than 100 fathoms. The most common type of anchor used today is called an “anchor rode,” which consists of two parts: A shank (the part that goes into the ground) and a weight (usually made out of lead). Anchors can be classified by their shape as well as how they’re attached to the boat.

In conclusion, boat anchors come in a variety of styles and sizes. You should find one that is appropriate for your boat needs. If you can’t find the right anchor, ask around or try to find some help online.

If you’re looking to purchase a boat anchor, consider choosing one that meets the weight requirements of the boat and is made with good quality materials.

Always be careful when anchoring, especially at night !

You May Also Like

• What is a Gunwale

Related Posts

8 Major Difference Between Boat And Ship

How much does a Boat Motor Cost

Leave a comment cancel reply.

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

6 Different Types of Boat Anchors

Posted on July 1, 2022

Just as cars have handbrakes and footbrake to hold them when needed, boats have anchors to perform the same function.  Anchors are let down of the boat to sink into the waters, dig and stop the boat from drifting.

There are several types of anchors available out there and they all perform the same type of functions but some may be best for specific types of boats while others aren’t. In this article, we will take a look at these types of boat anchors so you may know which one is best for your boat.

What is a boat anchor?

An anchor is a device made from metal, its function is to secure a boat in the water and prevent it from drifting due to wind or current. 

Boat anchors work by penetrating the surface of the seabed using suction, dragging, and material from the bottom over the anchor. The added weight is what makes the anchor grapple into place, and dig deeper, creating resistance. Without an anchor, a boat would definitely move around, collide with other boats, and even get stuck in shallow areas.

How to choose the right anchor for your boat

Below we have listed some quick tips that will help you choose the right anchor for your boat:

Select the right size

When choosing an anchor for your boat, you need to consider the size of your boat. If your boat is large, then you need to consider buying a larger anchor so that it can perform its function properly when in use.

Go for the right weight 

Also, make sure you choose the right weight as this will optimize its holding power when the boat is in the waters. For example, an anchor weighing about 8 pounds will hold a weight up to 2000 pounds. Therefore, if your boat weighs more, consider buying an anchor with the right weight as well.

Consider the water and weather conditions of the place your boat travels to

When choosing an anchor, make sure you know the weather and water current conditions you always face when traveling on your boat. You need to go for the type of anchor that can withstand different water and weather conditions without any difficulty.

If the weather conditions are bad, you will need a stronger anchor, if the water current is not stable, a stronger anchor is the best solution too.

Consider using two anchors with different styles

This may sound rather confusing but it’s actually the most effective anchoring security. Using two anchors with different styles is effective and will keep your boat safe while in the waters.  The type of sea bottoms your boat travels at will tell the type of anchor you need to use.

And at times it will be best to use an anchor on the stern and another on the bow. It’s very effective and will keep your boat safe no matter the weather conditions.

Consider the Bottom type for where your boat will be traveling

When you are unfamiliar with the body of water or its bottom where the boat will be traveling, the best thing to do is take more than one anchor with you.

The bottom types of where boats travel include mud, which requires a deeper and wider setting for a stronghold, sand, which has a high hold and is easy for setting, rock, which depends on where you drop your anchor and not the type, and clay, which depends on the weight of the anchor than its design.

Now that you have some tips for choosing the best anchor for your boat, we can now move forward and take a look at the types of anchors available for you to choose from. Hopefully, by the end of reading this article, you will have a full understanding and know all there is to learn about boat anchors.

Different types of boat anchors

Below we will discuss the different types of anchors, such as the delta, fluke grapnel, plow, etc. We will take a look at how they work to keep your boat safe in the waters.

1. Fluke Anchors

Also known as Danforth anchors or lightweight anchors, these are the most common types of anchors used by individuals who own boats. Fluke anchors are best known for having strong holding functions as they are made from very strong steel. Their design will definitely allow you to keep your boat firmly in place.

When this type of anchor is thrown in the water, it digs into the bottom and pulls the boat itself in order to keep it in place. This is a great function and it guarantees safety no matter the weather conditions.

However, fluke anchors are mostly suitable for smaller types of boats , this is because their design is lightweight and easy to handle.  The design of the anchor stows flat, this makes it very easy to store in the boat. Hence if you have a small-sized boat, you do not have to worry about storage issues.

Having a proper place to store your anchor when not in use is very important, and this goes for all types of anchors, whether big or small. Boat anchors are mostly sharp and heavy, if you accidentally kick them, it may lead to pain and sometimes serious injury.

Anchors can also slide around when the boat is in motion, hence they may get lost or cause even more serious injuries.

If your boat is small in size, then this is definitely the go-to type of anchor. However, before deciding to finally buy it, you need to know the length of your particular boat. This type of anchor weight ranges from 4 pounds to 44 pounds, and most boat sizes are compatible with the fluke anchor.

If your boat is bigger and heavier, then we suggest looking at the other types of anchors we have listed below. Focus on the heavier options.

2. Plow Anchors

Plow anchors are also very common, the name “plow” comes in because the design of the anchor looks like a large shovel or scoop. Originally, these types of anchors were known as CQR, nowadays they are called wig anchors mostly.

These types of anchors are known to have strong holding power in most types of water bottom conditions, they are said to have a very strong holding than the fluke anchors.

Because of their strong holding capabilities, plow anchors are commonly suitable for larger boats. They can withstand most weather conditions and they re-set easily. Because of their sizes, these types of anchors are a bit difficult to store.

However, there are chocks you can use to mount the deck. They will also fit very well on bowsprit anchor rollers. 

Most boat owners prefer having both fluke and plow anchors as this helps meet any anchoring conditions. Plow anchors perform their functions by simply plowing themselves into the bottom and burying themselves to create a stronghold.

Plow Anchors are designed to swivel so that if there’s any change in the pull, they will not lift off the ground no matter what. This is not the case with the fluke anchors as they are not designed to swivel.

Just like the fluke anchors, choosing the best plow anchor will depend on the length of your boat too. Plow anchors weigh between 26 to 60 pounds, meaning they are heavier than the fluke anchors and more suitable for bigger boats. But their heaviness makes them difficult to handle but still offers a strong holding power, which is an advantage.

3. Grapnel Anchors

Grapnel anchors are also well known, these types of anchors can either be fixed or folded. However, they cannot swivel, they simply use their weight to set and hold just like the plow anchor. These anchors are usually used on small boats but they can as well hold bigger boats like the plow anchor.

Grapnel anchors hold up in more bottom types than fluke anchors, they do not hold well as plow anchors. They are also very heavy, making them difficult to handle and store. However, the folding style is a bit manageable.

On the brighter side, grapnel anchors have some lighter options, this makes them suitable for smaller boats too. Their weight ranges from 13 to 66 pounds. If your boat is heavier for its length, or if it travels in volatile conditions, we suggest you look for heavier options as they will be more suitable for your large boat.

4. Claw Anchors

These types of anchors are also very common and loved by many, this is because they are easy to use and suitable for most types of bottoms. 

The claw anchor has a wide three-claw design known as the Bruce anchor. They are a bit difficult to set and hold hence if your boat is heavier, you may need to consider other types of anchors on this list.

The claw anchors are said to be a bit difficult to stow, but storing them will not be an issue as they fit well on a bowsprit anchor roller.

The advantage of these types of anchors is that they are affordable and you will not need to break your budget to have one.

Claw anchors’ weight ranges from 6 pounds to a huge industrial size. Because these are the types that come in a range of sizes suitable for most boats. These anchors have different holding powers; hence you will need to be careful when choosing one for your boat. Heavier options are usually best for most boats.

5. Scoop Anchors

The scoop anchors are another well-known type of anchor, they are a modern design and are becoming very popular because they work in many types of bottoms and have strong holding power. They are also set very well, meaning users can opt for lighter weight if they want.

On the downside, scoop anchors are a bit difficult to store and manage on the deck. The original version of the scoop anchors did not fit well on the bowsprit anchor roller due to the fact that they had roll bars to assist them set and re-set better. Modern versions do not have this problem.

Scoop anchors’ weight ranges from 6 pounds to large sizes.

The holding power of these anchors depends on the weight of the boast, hence if your boat is on the heavier side, opt for heavier sizes to hold your boat perfectly.

6. Box Anchors

These types of anchors are able to set immediately into the sea or lake bottom, they do not need additional power from the boat itself. This feature makes the box anchors to be preferred by many boat owners.

These types of anchors are suitable for boats with maximum lengths of up to 70 feet. The advantages of these types of anchors are that they are set into any kind of condition at the bottom of the lake or sea, they can reset themselves if there are any weather changes, and they fold flat in storage.

• Fishing Tips

The Best Boat Anchors Of All Time (Ranked Best Overall To Worst…)

• By: Joseph Simonds
• on July 16, 2021
• Found In: Boat Anchoring , Boating Tips , Fishing Tips , Weekly Newsletter: 7-18-21

• Comments (22)

It’s boat anchoring time!

Being able to quickly anchor your boat in any situation is one of the most important things for a boater (especially if you’re trying to catch fish and want to make sure you stay on your fishing honey hole).

It’s also a massive safety hazard if you have a small, weak anchor that won’t hold you during a storm, ripping current, etc.

But have you ever been confused (or uncertain) about which anchor is best for your boat?

Well, you’re not alone…

Turns out the majority of boaters we interviewed said they just bought an anchor “because their buddy had a similar anchor on his/her boat” or “because it was on sale and fit in the front hatch of their boat”…

NOT GOOD!!!

That’s why we had Salt Strong Fishing Coach Capt. Peter Deeks embark on a multi-month underwater investigation to find out exactly which anchors are best, and just as important, which anchors to avoid.

Let me tell you, the results were a bit shocking!

Let’s just say that the most popular anchors you see on boats are NOT the best!

Here are the main types of boat anchors that we tested:

• Danforth Fortress Fluke Anchor
• Common Danforth Fluke Anchor
• Small Fluke Anchor (West Marine)
• Danforth Steel Fluke (West Marine)
• Bruce Anchor
• Mushroom Anchor
• Grapple Reef Anchor
• Folding Grapnel Anchor
• Plow Anchor

Next, we tested each of these anchors out in every one of these situations (with and without chain – and with different rope length scopes):

• Hard compact sand
• Loose rocks/shelly gravel bottom
• Rocky/reef/wreck environment

So below you’ll see the following regarding this “best to worst” anchor test:

• An intro video where Capt. Deeks shares a few anchoring tips along with how we set up the test (definitely worth the watch)
• Links to all of the individual anchor tests (for you engineer types who like to see the actual underwater footage and testing of every anchor)
• Actual rankings for each anchor
• Conclusion video where we discuss the pros and cons of each anchor and declare a WINNER of best overall boat anchor

Enjoy this course and please leave us a comment below with any questions you have about anchors, how to anchor, or specific types of anchors you like.

1. Introduction To The Anchoring Test

Sign up for FREE to receive the latest saltwater fishing videos, tutorials, product reviews, and fishing product discounts!

2. Links To All Anchor Tests (Actual Underwater Footage)

Click any link below to see the full underwater footage for each anchor type

3. The Boat Anchor Test Results

The point scoring system is based on speed and strength of hold with the following criteria:

1 = one point is awarded for an anchor fail with endless slipping before finally setting

2 = two points are awarded for an anchor that has slight slipping (or slight issues) but does set

3 = three points are awarded for an anchor that works perfectly and sets exactly how and when you want it to

The best anchors (ranked from best anchor to worst anchor):

• Best in Mud
• Best in Sand
• Best in Hard Sand
• Best for using shortest Rode
• Quietest Anchor
• 2 nd in ease of use and storage
• Tied for Best Structure or Wreck
• Plow Anchor (44 Points)
• Large West Marine Brand Fluke Anchor (37 Points)
• Small West Marine Brand Fluke Anchor (37 Points)
• Danforth Fortress Fluke (28 Points)
• Folding Grappling Anchor (26 Points)
• The Most Common Cheap Fluke Anchor (25 Points)
• Specialty Anchor – Best for Structure and Ledges
• Specialty Anchor – Best for slowing a drift or light force use

  Click here to download the Google sheet with all of the individual anchor scores

4. conclusion – the best boat anchors (ranked).

In conclusion, the BRUCE ANCHOR was the best overall anchor for fishing boats.

The Bruce, The Bruce, The Bruce is on Fire!

What’s crazy is that no one on our immediate Salt Strong team had one in their boat (we all had Danforth flukes and even a new Danforth Fortress – which was one of the WORST anchors).

But you can believe we’re all headed out to get a big Bruce anchor after seeing all of this.

The next time you’re at a sandbar, check out what anchors are being used.

I bet you’ll see more cheap fluke anchors and Danforth fortress anchors than anything else (which this study proved to be not very effective at holding boats).

Did you have any “aha’ moments from this anchor course?

Do you currently own a Bruce anchor?

Any anchors that we missed?

Anything else you’d like to see when it comes to boat anchors or anchoring tips?

Let us know by leaving a comment.

Tight lines and tight anchors!

Click here to download the Google sheet with all of the individual anchor scores

 click here to join the insider club, related categories:.

• Boat Anchoring , Boating Tips , Fishing Tips , Weekly Newsletter: 7-18-21

Ok, all the tests without chain are really useless! ANY anchor, should have proper amount of chain. That is just how anchors work. Period! And per Chapmans just sayin. That being said, most anchors hold better in certain bottoms then others. I have used a Fortress for years on a 22 Chawk Pilothouse (LOTS of windage!) w great success. But takes some skill to set properly. Also have have many other kinds and types. All have their place, and most vessels, even small, should carry 2 types, for different bottoms. But thanks for the great vids. Hope people can see, not having chain (really need 10ft of proper size for boat) greatly affects anchor set.

I have the grappling small anchor for my kayak. PLease let me know what you would recommend instead. Great stuff!!

Worst anchor – cement shoes Best anchor – 55 gal drum filled with cement, unknown, and whatever dumped in the tin can grounds off statin island.

Well I, too, had the winning worst anchor which seemed to be a reasonable one when I bought it. I rarely use an anchor since I am in shallow flats most of the time. That anchor didn’t last too long – it rusted worse than most so I pitched it. I use my old galvanized Danforth and it is holding up. Perhaps I will get a Plow or Bruce when the old one gives up. Shorter rode would be a selling point.

Get a Mantus anchor, similar to a plow but self righting. Best anchor ever.

No box anchor included in the test? I use a box on my pontoon and a fluke on my bass boat.

Please remember: You won’t use your best bower for holding fishing marks. For permanent parking. The chain does most of the work. Lots of heavy chain + cable up to seven times the depth of the water at high tide.

For fishing, you will use a very much lighter kedge. Possibly, even without chain. You will probably tow it from mark to mark. Very physical, even with a winch. If it slips now and again so what. Just curse and reset it. You will be on the boat after all.

Best Bower is your insurance for your pride and joy. Best you can accomodate / afford.

Kedge will be your bain. Usually lives like Odo in a bucket. Filthy, heavy, awkward and bloody hard work. Consider if you can set and reset it 10 times on a tide. Can I tow it? Make sure you can afford it when you loose it. Must trip easily so you can get it back off a dodgy bottom.

Choice! The excellent research has been done for you. Many thanks all round.

A rider. As a massive chain swings with the tide, it sterilizes the sea bed. Tremendous destruction. Use fore and aft permanent moorings in the absense of “Eco Moorings”. We are installing the latter, especially to conserve sea grass.

Did you test a Navy Anchor?

I think any “absolute” advice has to be given and/or taken with a grain of salt. I say this because everyone’s frequency of use, depth of water, and type of bottom they anchor in is different. For example, I rarely use an anchor (thanks to Minn Kota and Power Pole) but my anchor resides in the anchor locker of my 22 foot bay boat 24/.7. The anchor in my boat is an FX7 Fortress without any chain. If and when I do anchor (maybe 6 or 8 times a year), it is either mud or sand……and the Fortress locks up tight…..even to the point that, oftentimes, I have to use the boat to pull it up. I personally have no need for a 10 to 15 lb anchor in the bow! Obviously, that would change if I were trying to anchor in 10 feet of water with 20 feet of rope, or anchoring in grass, or ……….

I do indeed have bruce anchors on my boat. I learned of them long ago as a member of the sailing community as they are very popular with cruisers who live on their sailboats. I carry a 10kg Bruce on my 24’ bay boat and a second smaller one. I learned to carry what is called a kedge anchor which really is just a small anchor that you can either throw or manually place to help pull you off a lee shore, when you run aground or are in danger of doing so. I use a 7# bruce anchor with 5’ of stainless chain and 75’ of 5/16” nylon for my line. I can throw this anchor about 50’. Let it settle to the bottom and then set it and pull yourself either off a sandbar or back out to deeper water. It has saved the day more than once and it is also a nice anchor for a dingy or kayak.

STOP WASTING TIME ON THE WATER!

Do what the “SMART ANGLERS” are doing and join the Insider Club.

Here’s what you’ll receive today when you join:

• Weekly fishing reports and TRENDS revealing exactly where you should fish every trip
• Weekly “spot dissection” videos that walk you through all the best spots in your area
• Exclusive fishing tips from the PROS you can’t find anywhere else
• Everything you need to start catching fish more consistently (regardless if you fish out of a boat, kayak, or land).

The SECRET Redfish, Trout, & Snook Lure That Is Out-Fishing Live Bait

the secret redfish, strout, & snook lure that is out -fishing live bait

THE #1 REDFISH LURE IN THE WORLD?

About Salt Strong

In December of 2014, these two brothers shocked their clients, friends, and family by quitting their 6-figure jobs to start their dream focused on helping saltwater anglers:

1. Catch more fish in less time

2. Create memories that matter through fishing

Quick Links

Popular sections.

• Fishing Club
• Fishing Courses
• Fishing Knots [Rankings]
• Product Reviews
• Fish Recipes

Popular Tips

• Inshore Manifesto
• Redfish Tips
• Seatrout Tips
• Distance Casting
• Kayaks/Paddleboards

Other Fishing Tips You May Like :

Must know catch and release fishing tips for saltwater anglers, how to use gulp shrimp under a popping cork like a pro, tools for planning your next fishing trip [pre-trip planning mini-course], choose a category :, editor's picks.

• Fishing Manifesto
• Inshore Fishing 101
• Best Fishing Knots
• Insider Home

01. connect With Salt Strong

02. join with salt strong.

• RISK-FREE Membership
• 3 Inshore Secrets Webinar
• Fishing Tribe Facebook Group

03. Salt Strong Products

• Salt Strong Online Mastery Courses
• Salt Strong INSIDER Club
• Salt Strong Books
• Inshore Fishing Manifesto

01. CONNECT WITH SALT STRONG

02. JOIN SALT STRONG

03. SALT STRONG PRODUCTS

Email: [email protected] Toll-free: (855)888-6494 1505 S Lake Shipp Drive Winter Haven, FL 33880

• © 2023 Salt Strong, LLC
• 1505 S Lake Shipp Drive Winter Haven, FL 33880
• Smart Fishing Spots
• Privacy Policy
• Terms & Conditions
• Legal Information
• Career Opportunities
• Tackle Tester Program
• Ready to Join
• Smart Fishing Tides
• Regional Map
• Leaderboard
• Members Directory
• Fishing School
• Weekend Game Plans
• Cheat Sheets
• Tackle Store
• Group Discounts
• Account Settings

Get Instant Access To “The Inshore Fishing Manifesto” PDF Now

• Your information is safe with us and will not be shared with any third party.

Advertisement

Supported by

Questions for Investigators Trying to Unravel Mystery of Luxury Yacht’s Sinking

The investigators searching for answers about the shipwreck, leaving seven dead, face questions about extreme weather and possible human error or problems with the yacht itself.

• Share full article

By Alan Yuhas

More than 180 feet long, with a mast towering about 240 feet and a keel that could be lowered for greater stability, the Bayesian luxury yacht did not, in the eyes of its maker, have the vulnerabilities of a ship that would easily sink.

“It drives me insane,” Giovanni Costantino, the chief executive of the Italian Sea Group, which in 2022 bought the company that made the ship, said after its wreck last week. “Following all the proper procedures, that boat is unsinkable.”

But the $40 million sailing yacht sank within minutes and with fatal results: seven dead, including the British technology billionaire Michael Lynch, his teenage daughter, four of Mr. Lynch’s friends and a member of the crew. Fifteen people, including the captain, escaped on a lifeboat.

Mr. Lynch had invited family, friends and part of his legal team on a cruise in the Mediterranean to celebrate his acquittal in June of fraud charges tied to the sale of his company to the tech giant Hewlett-Packard.

The Italian authorities have opened a manslaughter investigation, searching for answers from the survivors, the manufacturer and the wreck itself. They face a range of questions and possible factors.

An ‘earthquake’ in the sky?

When the Bayesian sank around 4 a.m. on Aug. 19, the waters in its area, about half a mile off the Sicilian port of Porticello, were transformed by an extremely sudden and violent storm, according to fishermen, a captain in the area and meteorologists.

But what kind of storm is still a mystery, compounded by the fact that a sailing schooner anchored nearby did not have its own disaster. Also unclear is whether the crew was aware that the Italian authorities had issued general warnings about bad weather the night before.

Karsten Börner, the captain of the nearby passenger ship, said he’d had to steady his ship during “really violent” winds . During the storm, he said, the Bayesian seemed to disappear behind his ship.

Severe lightning and strong gusts were registered by the Italian Air Force’s Center for Aerospace Meteorology and Climatology, according to Attilio Di Diodato, its director. “It was very intense and brief in duration,” he said.

The yacht, he said, had most likely been hit by a fierce downburst — a blast of powerful wind surging down during a thunderstorm. His agency put out rough-sea warnings the previous evening, alerting sailors about possible storms.

Locals have said the winds “felt like an earthquake.” A fisherman in Porticello said that he had seen a flare go off in the early-morning hours. His brother ventured to the site once the weather had calmed about 20 minutes later, he said, finding only floating cushions.

The Italian authorities have so far declined to say whether investigators had seen any structural damage to the hull or other parts of the ship.

Open hatches or doors?

The boat executive, Mr. Costantino, has argued that the Bayesian was an extremely safe vessel that could list even to 75 degrees without capsizing. His company, the Italian Sea Group, in 2022 bought the yacht’s manufacturer, Perini Navi, which launched the ship in 2008.

Mr. Costantino said that if some of the hatches on the side and in the stern, or some of the deck doors, had been open, the boat could have taken on water and sunk. Standard procedure in such storms, he said, would be to switch on the engine, lift the anchor and turn the boat into the wind, lowering the keel for extra stability, closing doors and gathering the guests in the main hall inside the deck.

At a news conference on Saturday, almost a week after the sinking, investigators said the yacht had sunk at an angle , with its stern — where the heavy engine was — having gone down first. The wreck was found lying on its right side at the bottom of a bay, about 165 feet deep.

12 guests occupied the yacht’s six cabins. There were also 10 crew members.

Open hatches, doors and cabin windows could have let in water during a storm, according to the manufacturer.

Open hatches, doors and

cabin windows could

have let in water

during a storm,

according to the

manufacturer.

Source: Superyacht Times, YachtCharterFleet, MarineTraffic

By Veronica Penney

Water pouring into open hatches or doors could have contributed to the sinking, experts say, but that on its own may not account for the speed at which such a large boat vanished underwater.

Asked about the hatches at the news conference, the authorities declined to comment on whether they had been found open at the wreck.

The authorities have also not specified whether the boat had been anchored, whether it was under power at the time or whether its sails had been unfurled.

A retracted keel?

The Bayesian had a keel — the fin-like structure beneath a boat that can help stabilize it — that could be retracted or extended, according to its manufacturer. On some yachts, keels can be raised to let the large vessel dock in shallower water, and extended downward to help keep a boat level.

But like the hatches, the status of the keel alone may not explain why a large ship sank with such precipitous speed. Investigators have not disclosed what divers may have seen at the wreck, aside from saying divers had faced obstacles like furnishings and electrical wiring in tight quarters. Officials want to raise the wreck to better examine it, a process that may take weeks.

Human error?

Ambrogio Cartosio, the prosecutor in charge of the case, said at the news conference that it was “plausible” crimes had been committed, but that investigators had not zeroed in on any potential suspects.

“There could be responsibilities of the captain only,” he said. “There could be responsibilities of the whole crew. There could be responsibilities of the boat makers. Or there could be responsibilities of those who were in charge of surveilling the boat.”

It remains unclear what kind of emergency training or preparation took place before the disaster, or what kind of coordination there was during it. So far, none of the surviving crew members have made a public statement about what happened the night the ship sank.

Prosecutors said they want to ask more questions of the captain and crew, who have been in a Sicilian hotel with other survivors. They said that neither alcohol nor drug tests had been performed on crew members, and that they have been allowed to leave Italy.

Prosecutors also said they were also investigating why the captain, an experienced sailor, left the sinking boat while some passengers were still on board.

Besides possible manslaughter charges, the authorities are investigating the possibility of a negligently caused shipwreck.

The bodies of five passengers were found in one cabin, on the left side of the yacht, the authorities said. The five were most likely trying to flee to the higher side of the boat and were probably sleeping when the boat started to sink, they said.