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LIFE LINES All swaged sailboat, power boat and yacht lifelines are assembled right here in our rigging shop. 

We use only the highest quality lifeline wire made 7x7 type 316 wire in our coated life lines never 7x19 or 1x19 wire.  Our uncoated life lines are 1x19 wire, all strand polished and type 316 stainless steel

We refuse to compromise quality to save a few pennies, so you can be sure that your life lines provide years of service and safety.

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Replacing Your Lifelines

Published by rigworks on april 8, 2016.

Question:  What are my options for replacing worn lifelines?

From the Rigger: There are more choices than ever when replacing worn lifelines…

Most lifelines are made of wire, usually uncoated 1×19 grade 316 stainless steel which is well suited for stationary applications such as lifelines. Diameters vary depending on the size of the boat. We generally use 1/8 ” wire for boats under 30’ and 3/16” for boats 30’ and longer, although there are exceptions (J-105s for example prefer 5/32”).  Of course, you can go heavier, but the extra weight can be prohibitive.

Boat owners are moving away from the vinyl covered 3/16” wire that has been the industry standard for years. In fact, the 2016 Safety Equipment Requirements no longer allow coated wire on coastal and ocean racing sailboats (there is a list of the 2016 racing SERs associated with lifelines at the end of this article). But if you don’t plan to race, you may still prefer the feel and appearance of coated wire. Vinyl coated wire’s primary advantage is that it is attractive and comfortable to handle. It can, however, discolor and crack over time, is susceptible to heat, and makes it difficult to inspect the wire underneath.

Synthetic lifelines made of low stretch Dyneema are becoming a popular alternative to wire. Dyneema, made of High Modulus Polyethylene (HMPE), is stronger and much lighter than steel. It is easy to install, can be spliced, doesn’t rust, and is easy to handle. Although it is more susceptible to chafing, chafe points can be protected with extra layers and/or tape. When converting from wire to Dyneema, be especially conscious of existing burrs on your stanchions, a common cause of chafing.  We recently installed Dyneema lifelines on a 38’ catamaran, and the customer was very happy with the results.

Regardless of whether you choose wire, coated wire, or Dyneema, we recommend that you always purchase high quality 316 grade fittings, including your turnbuckles, pelican hooks, gate eyes, toggle jaws, deck toggles, etc. We recommend Hayn, Johnson or Arco fittings which operate smoothly and withstand high loads.  We also suggest taping or pinning your fittings whenever possible. Sailors end up in the water as a result of fitting failures. Don’t scrimp here!

Your connections can be hand crimped, machine swaged, or spliced (in the case of Dyneema lines). Hand crimping is the least expensive “do-it-yourself” option but not our first choice. Hand crimping often leaves a bulky joint and can be susceptible to pulling free under load. We often see poorly/under-crimped connections which are definitely not safe. A proper swage is the strongest option.  Unlike hand-crimped connections that may simply break free, a tired swage connection will generally reveal hairline cracks prior to failing, giving you time to replace them. As for splicing those Dyneema lines, we do that here at Rigworks!

Finally, stanchions are often the weak link in your lifeline system. Tall and narrow, they are susceptible to bending, especially when used to catch the boat as you dock or to tie off sheets and halyards. Delamination and cracking at the base are also quite common. Use grade 316 stainless steel 1” diameter stanchions to reduce the likelihood of bending. Always check welds on bales and bases for rust which can be a telltale sign of cracking. Be sure that each stanchion is properly braced and bolted into a reinforced area of your deck and/or into a backing plate.

Of course, this is only the tip of the iceberg. Stanchion height and placement, line spacing (both horizontally and vertically), tension, deflection, toerails, etc. all need to be carefully considered. For professional installation or to discuss your own lifelines, email us at [email protected] or call us at 619-223-3788. We always look forward to hearing from you!

If you race, please read on…

Here is a list of the 2016 Safety Equipment Requirements that apply to lifelines for both coastal and ocean racing. For full list of 2016 SERs, visit the US Sailing website at http://www.ussailing.org/safety/equipment-and-requirements/

• A boat’s stanchion and pulpit bases shall be within the working deck. Stanchions used with High Modulus Polyethylene (HMPE) shall have rounded openings to reduce chafe.
• Bow pulpits may be open, but the opening between the vertical portion of stanchion pulpit and any part of the boat shall not exceed 14.2″ (360mm).
• Lifelines may be either uncoated stainless steel wire or HMPE line with spliced terminations or terminals specifically intended for the purpose. A multipart-lashing segment not to exceed 4″ per end termination for the purpose of attaching lifelines to pulpits is allowed. Lifelines shall be taut (see below). When HMPE is used, the load-bearing portion (core) shall meet or exceed minimum diameter requirements.
• When a deflecting force of 9 lbs (40N) is applied to a lifeline midway between supports of an upper or single lifeline, the lifeline shall not deflect more than 2” (50mm). This measurement shall be taken at the widest span between supports that are aft of the mast.
• When a deflecting force of 9 lbs (40N) is applied midway between supports of an intermediate lifeline of all spans that are aft of the mast, deflection shall not exceed 5” (120mm) from a straight line between the stanchions.
• The maximum spacing between lifeline supports (e.g. stanchions and pulpits) shall be 87″ (2.2m).
• Boats under 30′ (9.14m) shall have at least one lifeline with 18″ (457mm) minimum height above deck, and a maximum vertical gap of 18″ (457mm). Taller heights will require a second lifeline. The minimum diameter shall be 1/8″ (3mm).
• Boats 30′ and over (9.14m) shall have at least two lifelines with 24″ (762mm) minimum height above deck, and a maximum vertical gap of 15″ (381mm). The minimum diameter will be 5/32″ (4mm) for boats to 43′ (13.1m) and 3/16″ (5mm) for boats over 43′ (13.1m).
• Toe rails shall be fitted around the foredeck from the base of the mast with a minimum height of 3/4″ (18mm) for boats under 30′ (9.14m) and 1″ (25mm) for boats over 30′. An additional installed lifeline that is 1-2″ (25-51mm) above the deck will satisfy this requirement for boats without toerails.
• Trimarans are exempted from the lifeline requirement where there is a trampoline outboard of the main hull, except that a lifeline must run from the top of a bow pulpit to the forward crossbeam at the outboard edge of the bow net or foredeck. Catamarans with trampoline nets between the hulls are exempted from the lifeline requirement. All catamarans are exempted from the need for pulpits and lifelines across the bow.

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DIY Install: Dyneema Lifelines

Note: This page contains affiliate links. We may receive a small commission if you purchase items through the links on this page. All recommendations are genuine. We would absolutely purchase and use ourselves any and all items that we recommend on this blog. Now, on to the good stuff: Dyneema Lifelines!

Click-to-Buy Supply List for your DIY Dyneema Lifeline Installation:

• Splicing Fids
• 1/4″ Dyneema (or whatever size best fits through your stanchions)
• 1/8″ Dyneema for lashing
• Steel Thimbles
• Gate Hooks: Pelican Hooks or Quick Release Snaps

How To DIY Install Dyneema Lifelines on a Sailboat

Back in April 2019, we decided to replace our original standard cable lifelines with Dyneema synthetic lifelines. I had already done several projects that helped me learn how to splice Dyneema line. ( This is the set of splicing fids that I use ! It works great!) This project seemed like it would be a good option for us and fairly easy to apply. 

In updating this post in November of 2022, we can report that our Dyneema lifelines have held up spectacularly over the past 3 1/2 years. We’ve cruised from the Pacific Northwest in the Puget Sound down the west coast of the USA and into Mexico aboard our sailboat . 

Step-by-Step Instructions for Splicing and Installing Dyneema Lifelines

On our boat, we have a mid-section of our lifelines that is stainless steel tubing so I needed to just replace the gate section on each side. Plus a longer section toward the bow on each side. I used 1/4-inch Dyneema for this project.

You will likely have a different arrangement on your boat so the project will merit some critical thinking and careful planning. But, that said, if you’ve got the desire, I assure you this is a project that you can absolutely tackle yourself. Contact me if you’d like to brainstorm ideas for installing Dyneema lifelines on your boat!

Measuring for the Dyneema You’ll Need

Our gate section, mirrored on each side, is 7-feet long and a straight shot (no stanchions or obstructions from start to finish). The forward section of lifeline is 13.5 feet long and has a stanchion that the line has to pass through. Of course, you’ll need extra length on each end of every section for making your splices. On my project, I calculated that I needed a total length of about 108 feet. I wanted to give myself some extra room, so I purchased 120 feet of Dyneema .

For the gate pieces, I calculated that I needed 13″ (bury) + 10″ (splice loop on one end) + 84″ (7-foot stretch) + 5″ (splice loop on thimble side) + 13″ (bury) = 125″ which is about 10 1/2 feet. So I need 4 lengths of that measurement as we have 2 lifeline gates on each side of the boat. That’s a total of 42 feet.

For the forward pieces, I calculated that I needed: 13″ (bury) + 10″ (splice loop on cow hitch side) + 162″ (13.5-foot stretch) + 5″ (splice loop on thimble side) + 13″ (bury) = 197″ which is about 16 1/2 feet. Again, times 4 = 66 feet.

Making and Installing Dyneema Lifelines with Stanchions

I spoke with several “seasoned” sailors about the project and had my plan in place. To start, I would just need to splice a locking eye-splice into one end of the Dyneema line. I would cow hitch that around the stanchion or through the attachment point like below.

Then, after threading the line through the stanchion, I would make another eye splice and insert a thimble . The thimble will protect the lifeline from chafe. I passed a smaller diameter piece of Dyneema through that thimble several times to tension the lifeline and lash it in place.

So, before doing anything else, I measured the distances again to double-check. For the forward section, I confirmed 13.5 feet. Then I made my first splice. For the eye splice, I would need a bury length of 12.5 inches, which I rounded up to 13″. On the cow hitch end, which I was doing first, I wanted an inside loop of about 10 inches.

**I’ll drop a link at the bottom of this post to the YouTube video I used for making my Dyneema Brummel locking eye splice using only one end of the line.

Here’s the first splice.

From that point, I needed to go up to and start working on-site. First, I detached the old lifelines and cut them off with a cable cutter to remove them from through the stanchion.

Once I had removed the old lifeline, I cleaned up the connection points. Then I attached the new lifeline to the forward stanchion with a cow hitch knot. For the bottom lifeline, I wrapped the line all the way around the stanchion and used the connection point as a guide.

For the top, I just cow-hitched it through the attachment point.

Then, I passed them through the stanchion, measuring to where I wanted the splice and thimble to be. I wanted it a good 6-8 inches from the attachment point on the other end to give plenty of room to stretch the lifeline tight before lashing. Remember to give yourself the extra room for the splice and bury.

Here you can see the 13″ marked on the line at the end for the bury, and the 5-inch section marked for the eye splice and thimble .

Once measured, go ahead and make your splice and insert the thimble .

From that point, you need to prepare your lashing. For mine, I used a smaller Dyneema line that I already had here at the boat: 1/8-inch Dyneema .

First, attach one end of the lashing line to the lifeline at the thimble with a double figure 8 knot. See below.

First, tie a loose figure 8 knot in your line, near one end.

Next, pass the tail through the thimble and then retrace the figure 8 knot backward through the knot.

Then, carefully tighten this up as much as you can.

Now you’re ready to do your lashing. Wrap it around at least twice and pull it as tight as you can get it. When it is tight, finish the lashing with a bunch of half hitches.

That wrapped up the first of the forward sections of Dyneema lifelines on our sailboat.

Doing the gate sections was a little different. I didn’t need to worry about a stanchion in the middle but I did need to figure out how I was going to tension it. That could be with a lashing or could be integral to the clasp, depending on what type of clasp you use.

Installing Synthetic Dyneema Lifeline Gates

Measuring for my gates was a little more complicated because I was trying to get them to be the correct length to be tight without using a lashing section as a tensioner. Instead, I used the adjustability of the screw section of my ‘pelican hook’ gate hooks to be able to shorten or lengthen the run.

The pelican hooks I used were the existing ones ( like these ) from the previous set of lifeline gates. (Hey, ya gotta save money anywhere you can when outfitting a cruising boat!) The problem I had was that I needed an eye bolt or some other way to cow hitch on the Dyneema lifeline gate. Here are two options that I found online which I think would work well: pelican hook or quick-release .

Thankfully, rather than buying new pelican hooks, I was able to get some assistance from my stepdad. We worked out a plan for him to weld some eye bolts onto the existing threaded piece.

So, I started out by making an eye splice on one end of each of the four pieces of Dyneema that I was going to use for my gates. Be very careful at this step to make sure to do your calculations correctly. Don’t cut your pieces too short!

My gates are 7 feet long, so for each piece, I made my first eye splice. Then I measured out 7 feet from the end of the splice loop, plus an extra 5 inches for the loop and plus another 13 inches for the splice bury. I added just a few extra inches on each piece so I wouldn’t be short.

From there, I went up top and cow hitched those sections on and pulled them tight to mark where I would need the middle of the other end’s eye splice to lay.

Above, I have the section pulled nice and tight so that I could try to see where I wanted the middle of that eye splice to lay.

However! That is not truly where you want the center to be because you need to account for a few extra inches that will be taken up in the process of the cow hitch to attach it to the pelican hook.

Above, my left index finger is pointing right to where the line actually bent back when I passed the line through the loop in the pelican hook. The bend in the line above, about an extra 2 inches, is where I decided I wanted the actual center of the next eye splice to lie.

Once noted, I went back down below and made my next splices. I gave myself 4 inches on each side of that center mark for the length of the splice loop. Remember your extra 13 inches needed to bury the tail of the splice.

Once that was done, it was simply a matter of heading back up top and attaching the first section to the attachment point. I slipped the splice through the loop on the pelican hook and looped the splice loop back over the pelican hook. This allowed me to bring it back around into a cow hitch on the pelican hook side.

Then, it was just a matter of adjusting the length of the screw/threaded section to ensure a nice snug fit of the gate.

Note: the Dyneema lifelines will most likely stretch out a bit over time. In just a couple days, I had to go back and tighten the lashings up. I periodically adjust the pelican hook settings to keep the lines as tight as we want them. So, pay attention to that when planning your lifelines. You will need enough room in them to go back and make them tighter later on.

Overall, I am SUPER happy with how these look and how they turned out. They look so much better than our old rusty cable lifelines and I trust the strength of the Dyneema.

Do you have questions on the process at all? Are you ready to replace your old cable lifelines with synthetic Dyneema !? If I can do it, so can you! Give it a go!! Feel free to shoot me a comment or a message on Facebook or Instagram and I would be happy to help if I can!

Cheers!   ~Rachel

*Here’s a link to a YouTube video for the splice I used: Dyneema Brummel Lock-Splice with One Side Fixed

*And here’s a link to a YouTube video for the whole project: DIY Dyneema Lifelines by Tula’s Endless Summer

*We’re not associated with either of these videos in any way.

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The lifeline on a boat, all you need to know to use it safely

The lifeline is the link between the sailor and his boat and is the point of attachment of the harness lanyard when moving around the deck. It must therefore be accessible, practical and solid. Here's how to install it for maximum safety.

As its name suggests, this line is a way of watching over the life of the sailor. It is a line (strap, cable, rope ...) stretched from the stern to the bow of the boat . The crew member who has to move towards the mast foot or the foredeck hangs the carabiner of his harness lanyard on it. This way, without unhooking, he will be able to stay connected to the boat all along his displacement.

Most common on sailing boats

Even if a harness and a lanyard are compulsory on a motorboat (regardless of the number of crew members when sailing offshore...), lifelines are more common on sailing boats. On the latter, when sailing offshore, one harness and lanyard is required for each crew member on board. The harness can be integrated (and it is advisable) in the life jacket.

The strap to avoid rolling under the feet

While lifelines were once made of cable, they are now largely replaced by flat webbing models. This is because on the deck, a cable runs under the boot while the strap does not interfere, thus improving safety.

How to install a lifeline?

Often the lifeline runs all the way along the planking from the rear cleat to the front cleat. This is not necessarily a good idea. If a crewmember falls overboard, he or she is hanging by the harness lanyard from the lifeline. If the lifeline is close to the edge of the boat , then the crew member is in the water, being towed by the boat , a very uncomfortable situation. The lifeline should be installed as close as possible to the boat's centreline. It will be well tensioned so that it doesn't float in the wind or give slack in the waterfall. But not too taut either, otherwise we wouldn't be able to get the carabiners through it. There's no need to take her to the bow either. The crew member who has to go as far as the forestay benefits from the full length of his lifeline.

Ideally, we will run the lifeline on top of the deckhouse, from each side, to arrive at a single point in the middle of the front beach. This way, a crew member leaving the cabin will be able to moor there even before having put one foot in the cockpit.

Strong mooring points

The lifelines support between 2 and 3 tons before breaking. Reinforced fixing points are therefore required that will hold at least this load. The anchorage points will therefore be reinforced with through bolts and a counterplate under the deck.

For the webbing to have its full strength, it should not be assembled with knots. Seams are preferable. Sailmakers can do this very well at a lower cost.

Regular maintenance

Like all fibres, lifeline straps do not like UV light. They deteriorate over time. Manufacturers advertise a 2 year life span if you do not stow your lifelines when you are not sailing. What we don't recommend: Because in addition to wearing out prematurely, straps laid flat on deck mould green foam type dirt.

In winter, it is advisable to rinse the lifelines with plenty of water (in order to desalinate them), dry them before storing them away from light and humidity. But in any case, changing your lifelines at least every 5 years is not a luxury. And if you don't, at least have your sailmaker check the seams.

Models adaptable to the length of the boat

You can order your lifeline from your sailmaker with a precise calculation of its length or opt for adjustable models. Plastimo and Wichard offer some very efficient models, adjustable in length.

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The Lifeline Quandary

• By Roger Hughes
• January 25, 2022

The vinyl-coated wire lifelines on my 1977 Downeaster 45 schooner, Britannia , were well past their prime. Sections of the vinyl coating had faded into a dull brown—with parts chafed and cracked, exposing the wire—and many of the chrome fittings had lost their luster. If I accidentally ran my hand along an exposed section, I’d pierce my fingers. They simply had to be replaced, not only for safety and to restore a smooth surface, but also for the appearance. 

Lifelines are intended to stop someone from falling overboard, so that’s the primary consideration in any replacement. But this does raise another important question: How does a person who falls overboard get back on board: through or over the lifelines? I’d once experienced a man-overboard situation where this became an issue, so it was foremost in my thinking.

Most lifelines have pelican hooks at one end that can be released to lower the lines. Britannia ’s were the old style, with a locking ring over the release lever. When the wires were tight, it was very difficult to pry the ring back over the latch by hand, and pliers were necessary to squeeze the latch. 

A new type of pelican hook, from CS Johnson Inc., has a pin, like a snap shackle, that releases the hook even with the lines under maximum tension. Lines can also be released by unwinding the tensioning turnbuckle toggle at the other end, but if the line is tight, it too can be difficult to do so by hand. I found a neat little adjustment tool at CS Johnson’s website that fits in the center small hole of a tubular turnbuckle and is much better than pliers or a bit of old wire, which I had been using for years. 

If for any reason lines cannot be released, a final option would be to cut the wire, which requires long-­handled wire cutters for 3/16-inch wire—but what if the lifelines are rope? That would be easy to cut, but would rope be strong enough? Questions, questions.

Wire vs. Rope?

Since I was going to replace the wires anyway, I decided to look at the pros and cons of wire and rope. Maybe there’s a better alternative to old-fashioned wire? Regarding strength, I couldn’t find any manufacturer who gave the strength of their material when used specifically as lifelines. All I could find for both wire and rope was “tensile strength” or “working load.” No account was given for stanchions either, which are integral to any boat’s lifeline system. How stanchions hold up depends on their deck fastenings, length and tube thickness. Whatever I decided to use to replace my worn lifelines, it had to be no thicker than 3/8-inch (10 mm) diameter to pass through the 7/16-inch (11 mm) holes through the stanchions. I started listing the pros and cons:

Uncoated wire can become almost untouchably hot in the Florida summers, where Brittania lives, and I don’t like gripping thin wire with bare hands anyway, so I didn’t want to consider that. Vinyl-coated wire is commonly fitted by manufacturers and sold through aftermarket suppliers. It looks smart when it’s new, but over time, water can enter at the ends and wherever chafe has exposed the wire. Eventually this causes corrosion that might not be visible under the covering. However, wire is strong, and 3/16-inch 7-by-7 strand has a working load of 3,700 pounds. (As an aside, boats with wire lifelines should preferably also have a good quality wire cutter on board to chop the wire in an emergency.)

All that said, Dyneema rope’s working load is stronger, size for size, than stainless wire. The possibility of substituting rope for lifelines therefore becomes a viable possibility. I found Miami Cordage Inc., a rope-­maker, hidden in the industrial depths of greater Miami. Most recreational boaters will not have heard of this wonderful Aladdin’s cave of rope because nearly all of its product goes to the United States Navy, Coast Guard and other industrial outlets. Yet they make every conceivable type of rope, from old-style three strand to 12-strand Dyneema, which they call Ironlite. Their prices are considerably less than the regular retail outlets most sailors, including me, regularly use. Their 1/4-inch (6 mm) single-braided 12-strand has an amazing tensile strength of 8,000 pounds.

Once that overview was completed, I started digging deeper by going down a list of several categories.

Cost comparison: 7-by-7 3/16-inch vinyl-coated wire: $1.79 per foot (defender.com); Dyneema Ironlite 1/4-inch 12-strand in blue: $0.60 per foot (miamicordage.com). 

End fittings: A significant additional cost in replacing existing lines are the fittings needed on each end, especially if new turnbuckles and pelican hooks are needed. 

Stretch (creep): Once tensioned bar-tight with the turnbuckles, wire does not stretch further. Dyneema stretches only about 1 percent, but once stretched, it does not move much after that. Dyneema can also be set up bar-tight.

Chafe: All lifelines are subject to chafe by anything rubbing against them: sheets, dock lines, fender lines and where they pass through stanchions. Britannia ’s stanchions have a 7/16-inch-diameter flared tube in each cross-through hole that minimizes chafe at those points. 

Cleaning: White vinyl-­coated wire can simply be wiped with a rag and some bleach now and then, but the vinyl still fades over time. Dyneema has a shiny, slightly slippery texture that can be cleaned with soap and water. 

How to Install

The next item to consider was ease (or lack thereof!) of installation. Once again, I broke it down to the potential materials.

With wire, I needed roughly 150 feet (46 m) with 16 threaded ends to replace my old wire, along with at least three new turnbuckles to replace the jammed old ones. The conventional method of attaching threaded ends to wire is to compress, or swage, the fitting to the wire. This can be done using a hand tool offered by most rigging suppliers ($42 from Defender), but it is tedious if you have a lot to do. First, the vinyl coating has to be cut back a couple of inches, exposing the wire (which in itself is not easy, and best done in a sturdy vice with a sharp box-cutter blade). Then, using a wrench to tighten the bolts on the swaging tool, five crimps are recommended on each fitting. I needed 16 ­fittings each with five swages—that’s 80 crimps! Even if each swage took only five minutes, it would still take nearly seven hours. Defender has a long-handled crimping tool that makes short work of swaging multiple fittings, but unfortunately the price is $279. Also, hand-swaging produces only 65 percent of the strength of the wire, but a crimping tool increases this to 85 percent.

An alternative method, which does not require swaging or any special tools, are wire Sta-Lok fittings by CS Johnson. These are easily ­assembled on wire using regular wrenches and actually provide 100 percent of the strength of the wire, and are approved by Lloyd’s of London for lifeline fittings. 

As an option to hand-­swaging, I decided to ask for a quote from the rigging services of a local marine retailer for vinyl-covered wire with end fittings professionally ­attached. I needed four 30-foot lengths and four 6-foot lengths. The price was nearly $800 for the wire alone. It was at this ­juncture that I decided to look ­seriously at Dyneema. 

Rope can be attached to ­existing toggle end fittings with either a splice or even a knot, but CS Johnson has special rope/end attachments, called Splice-Line lifeline fittings, to attach Dyneema to all types of fittings such as turnbuckles and pelican hooks. The rope is spliced directly around the fitting without a thimble, and chafe is reduced to a minimum.

Single-braid Dyneema is hollow, with no center core, and much easier to eye-splice than double braided line. The 12-strand rope is first tapered by removing four pairs of strands, then the end is buried deep inside the standing part and lock-stitched. This is an easy operation with a special 14-inch-long splicing wand from Brion Toss Yacht Riggers (briontoss.com). This fid enables the tapered end to be gripped by the wand and then pulled through the core, instead of pushing it with a conventional fid. With 16 splices to make, I was very thankful to have one. The fid can also be used for other rope work. 

I would need about 200 feet (61 m) of rope, allowing enough for 16 eye splices. I estimated it would still take about three hours to do them all. Miami Cordage makes Ironlite in many colors, including solid blue, which nicely matched Britannia ’s royal-blue color scheme.

Advantage Dyneema

For my project and boat, I determined Dyneema was the way to go. Here are some of the reasons why: As mentioned, 1/4-inch Dyneema is much stronger than 3/16-inch wire. Dyneema is not subject to corrosion or affected by rain or seawater, and is easily inspected for chafe. 

Any section of a rope ­lifeline can be lowered easily between stanchions because the line slides through the stanchions and bends easily. Wire does not slide or bend readily. If necessary, rope lifelines can be cut with a sharp knife; wire needs a ­long-handled wire cutter.

Furthermore, rope lifelines can be replaced in a jiffy, even on a passage. A spare 50-foot length of 1/4-inch Dyneema is much easier to store than the same length of wire.

Dyneema is significantly lighter than wire rope. My complete wire lines weighed 13 pounds. The same length of Dyneema rope weighed only 2.4 pounds. I imagined the weight I’d be saving in my schooner’s 700 feet of 3/8-inch stainless-steel standing rigging—something to think about. 

Finally, there was the price difference—150 feet of 3/16-inch vinyl-coated wire, 16 threaded swage ends, plus a hand-swaging tool and wire cutter runs about $650, while 200 feet of 1/4-inch Dyneema, a splicing wand and three new turnbuckles cost $292. 

These prices were based on using my existing pelican hooks, turnbuckles and other fittings, but I finally ­decided to dive in and do the job properly with new parts. I used CS Johnson’s Splice-Line rope fittings, including new turnbuckles and beautifully crafted quick-release ­pelican hooks, with blue Miami Cordage 1/4-inch Ironlite Dyneema. The whole installation took two weekends to ­replace all the old lifelines, and I eventually got the timing down to 10 minutes for each Dyneema splice. Practice makes perfect. 

There was one final thing I decided to try: Since one of the only things that can weaken Dyneema lines is chafe, I decided to enclose the sections where this might occur with plastic covers that clip completely over the rope and act as chafe guards. These are 6 feet long and only $2 each from West Marine. They still allow the rope to move freely inside and, if any of the guards show signs of chafe, it’s a simple matter to replace one section before it wears the rope itself. They also increase the line thickness to nearly 1/2-inch, which makes holding the lines much more comfortable. 

Britannia ’sfinished lines now look stylish and purposeful, and I am confident that in the event of a real man-overboard emergency, I will have the least possible obstructions to get the person back on board, past the lines. It’s a ­win-win solution.

Florida-based sailor and handyman Roger Hughes is overhauling his 45-foot schooner, Britannia , one system and project at a time.

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Rope vs. Wire Lifelines

Can cheaper rope be used instead of high-tech.

Three years ago, I bought a 1968 Hinterhoeller HR28 from a local junkyard that had paid $250 for it with plans to salvage the lead keel and Sawzall the rest. Ive spent almost three years on an amateurs refit. Now, I need new lifelines.

I know that plastic-coated wire is out-of-favor and that race-sanctioning bodies now approve of high-tech (and high-priced) ropes. What risks am I taking if I just use a cheaper and thicker rope-something like Samson LS 3/8-inch with a tensile strength of 3,700 pounds? Stainless-steel 3/16 lifeline wire is rated at 3,700-pounds breaking strength. Are tensile and breaking strength the same?

I understand some might reject the aesthetics of fat, colored lifelines, but on the other hand, they may be more visible and easier on the hand.

Hank Riehl Mooney Hahn, Hinterhoeller HR28 Salem, Mass.

Tensile strength is the force that the line can withstand without suffering a failure. When one end of something is fixed, and a load is imposed on the opposite end, the material is placed in tension. Rope has ample tensile strength, and in practice, it is always used in tension.

Breaking strength is the force required to break the line. Some rope makers equate breaking strength with tensile strength. Others refer to safe working load (SWL) as a guideline for choosing the right one for your boat. In some cases, SWL may be 50 percent of the breaking strength.

The International Sailing Federation (ISAF) requires boats over 28 feet to have lifelines made of uncoated wire or the equivalent high molecular weight polyethylene rope (HMPE) like Dyneema or Spectra. Choosing rope lifelines of equal breaking strength to wire is a start. However, breaking strength isn’t the only factor to consider when deciding on lifeline materials: Stretch is another issue. Wire has much less stretch than Dacron, and only the high-tech HMPE rope and other esoteric fibers match or beat wires resistance to stretch. Rope lifelines that stretch can increase side loading on the stanchions and cause premature crimping, which leads to stanchion bending and eventually failure.

Other issues to consider are how to prevent cover chafe, and learning careful splicing and lashing techniques. Versions of the Brummel splice are often the preferred approach for placing an eye in single-braid line.

Well be able to offer more concrete guidance this fall, when we wrap up the long-term synthetic lifeline testing were conducting in conjunction with the U.S. Naval Academy. Be sure to check out the launch article on that test in the September 2012 issue.

Bottom Boo-Boos I recently stripped 15 years of bottom paint and barrier coat from my 1984 sailboat to apply Interlux Interprotect 2000E and new bottom paint. My help was a little aggressive and sanded through the gelcoat to the fiberglass in a few spots. Should I wipe those spots down with acetone and apply a couple of coats of gelcoat, or just apply the Interprotect 2000E?

Paul Kelly, Great Kills Harbor, Staten Island, Lower New York Harbor

Over-zealous sanding/stripping that results in burn-through is a very common issue with any help thats not professional. Your best bet with below-the-waterline burn-throughs is to spot coat the raw fiberglass areas with an epoxy resin. We recommend Interluxs Epiglass HT9000, which was one of our top picks in the last adhesive test ( PS, June 2012 ), and itll allow you to stick with the same brand of products since youre using Interprotect barrier coat. Simply brush on a coat of the HT900 resin, being careful to avoid runs and hangs from laying it on too thick. After the resin cures, wash the spot(s) with dish soap and water to remove any residual amine. Follow up by sanding with 80-grit paper to provide an anchoring pattern. And finally, dust the spots off and wipe them down with Interlux 202 solvent ( www.yachtpaint.com ). Then youre ready to apply Interprotect to the entire area below the waterline.

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Replacement Lifelines – The Cheapest and Best Solutions

We recently replaced our lifelines aboard our Catamaran Adrenaline.  The old ones were conventional vinyl coated stainless steel wire and had rust protruding from the machine swaged terminals as well as a few spots in the cracked vinyl. Replacement for these lifelines was long overdue.

Old Vinyl Coated Lifelines

I wanted to stay away from vinyl coated lifelines because it creates an opportunity for salt water to sit, hidden, and corrode the SS wire underneath. We chose bare 1×19 wire initially and long story short our source for the wire was questionable (amazon) and it started rusting after just a few months. After about a year we replaced our lifelines again, this time with Dux, a type of heat-set dyneema, and dyneema lashings with Colligo terminators to tension the lines.

Bare 1×19 SS Lifelines

In the process of deciding which direction to go, I did a ton of research on our options and the costs associated with each. I will outline all these options below with their costs as well as some advantages and disadvantages of each. For this comparison we used our boat’s lifeline setup as the standard. We measured a 35′ run from bearing point to bearing point for each line and we have no gates which makes our setup very simple. We do however have a third lower lifeline when many other sailboats only have two lifelines.

The three main lifeline materials to choose from are vinyl coated ss wire, bare 1×19 ss wire, and dyneema. We left out the vinyl coated option in our comparison for the reason mentioned above. The standard diameter for lifeline wire seems to be 3/16″ (5mm for dux) so we used that in each setup.

No matter which material you choose for your line, each end must be terminated. With ss wire this is done with either a mechanical fitting, hand-swage fitting, or machine swage fitting. We left out the hand-swage option for our comparison because you need a special hand swage tool and shopping around for the proper studs, matching them with the turnbuckles and opposite studs, and getting the direction of threads correct was taking a ton of time and a pain. To terminate dyneema lifelines you use a locking brummel splice and a colligo terminator or stainless steel high-load thimble .

Each lifeline also needs a tensioning method. With ss wire this is done with a turnbuckle and with dyneema it can be done with lashings, a turnbuckle, or both.

Our comparison starts with a diy setup with all products from  Sailrite This lifeline setup includes 1×19 ss wire with mechanical fittings and turnbuckles from a company called Suncor. Our 35′ run requires just under 35′ of ss wire but sailrite only sells wire in 40′ lengths so we needed a total of x6 40′ lengths which run $50.95 each. We needed x6 mechanical fittings to terminate the wire into a toggle ($41.95 each) and on the other end, another x6 mechanical fittings that terminate the wire into a stud for one side of the turnbuckle which are $44.95 each including the turnbuckle and stud/toggle on the opposite side. The total for this entire setup is $827.10 in materials. The mechanical fittings only require two wrenches to compress the inner wedge kit onto the ss wire and is pretty easy for a diy project. Once you have the suncor fittings, if you ever have to replace your lifelines you can usually re-use the same fittings and just replace the inner wedge kit which are $16.96 each vs. the original $41.95 for the whole fitting/toggle. The advantages to this system are that it is totally diy friendly, and may be a cheaper option for future replacement. You can also carry some spare wire and wedge kites aboard for any replacements in super remote areas while cruising. Disadvantages include being more expensive than other options and possibly not as strong a fitting as other options.

Our next comparison is a similar setup with all products through defender . This lifeline system also includes mechanical fittings only requiring two wrenches to install but this time we looked at sta-lok products which uses a slightly different cone wedge to secure the fitting onto the wire. We would need x6 sta-lok fitting/toggles at $46.99 each, x6 sta-lok fitting/studs at $39.99 each and x6 turnbuckles with stud/toggle on one side at $38.99 each.. From defender you can order 1×19 wire by the foot and we estimated 35′ run each even though we need probably just a bit less. At $1.39/ft. the total for wire is $291.90 and the total for this whole system would be $1047.72. Advantages include: DIY capability, very strong mechanical fitting (many use for standing rigging), and ability to carry spares. Disadvantages include: Expensive, ability for water to sit and corrode in fitting (this can be combated by including some sort of sealant  before the fitting is compressed).

Our third option for replacement lifelines is to get them made up from a professional rigger with a machine swage. We received a quote from Mack Sails in Stuart, FL for the exact length lifelines we needed in bare 1×19 stainless including all the sta-lok brand turnbuckles, fittings, and toggles required. They would do all the labor of measuring/cutting the wire and swaging on the fittings. Their total quote was $663. Advantages: Cheapest option, professional work, reliable source of materials, no DIY necessary. Disadvantages: Must be local or have shipped, no re-use of fittings when replacement is needed (turnbuckles/toggles can be inspected and re-used), might have to wait a few weeks depending on their work load. Here is the website to Mack Sails .

In this video we replaced our lifelines with bare 1×19 wire that I bought on amazon (bad idea) and Mack Sails swaged on fittings for us. (Should have had them do everything).

Our last comparison for replacement lifelines aboard a sailboat is synthetic line. We chose Dyneema Dux for our comparison and on our own boat. Dux is a type of dyneema from Colligo Marine that is pre-heat stretched to take all the stretch out of the line so that constant adjustment is not necessary. The total amount of Dux needed we ordered was about 235′ to allow for take-up and extra length required for the splices. Dux from Colligo costs $2.85/ft. The forward ends of all our lines were locking brummel eye spliced then luggage tagged to an eye-bolt in our crossbeam so no additional hardware was required. The aft ends were eye spliced and terminated with Colligo Lifeline Terminators  which are $33.32/each. These were then lashed to our stern stanchion structure using regular 4mm sk75 dyneema lashing line  which costs $0.90/ft. Our total cost on this setup was $905.67. All you need to do the splicing is a small fid kit  and a short amount of time to learn the locking brummel splice.  Advantages are: DIY very friendly, lightest option for performance boats, spares are light and easy to carry aboard, easily inspectable (line frays well before there is risk of it failing), stronger than 3/16″ SS wire, can re-use terminator fittings, no corrosion to worry about, simple. Disadvantages: Not the cheapest option, may not last as long as wire due to chafe or UV, may need to smooth stanchion holes or add cover/tube.

Here is a video of us installing our Dux lifelines.

A few notes on using synthetic line. It is very tough stuff and relatively UV resistant as far as line goes but any surface it touches needs to be rounded and smooth (stanchions). Or, you can use plastic tubing or chafe sleeve where it passes through stanchions. You could also chafe sleeve the whole line with something like Marlow dyneema chafe sleeve which would also protect the line from UV and would make the line last virtually forever if the cover was never chafed through to the core. Colligo Marine has done some testing and determined that bare Dux is safe to use for at least 5-8 years in the tropics. You can tension synthetic lifelines with turnbuckles but you must measure and splice precisely or you can use lashings and turnbuckles but I have found that lashings were plenty sufficient and I only had to adjust them once after I installed them because I did not pre-stretch the line to take the constructional stretch out of the splices. In addition, you can use high-load SS sailmaker thimbles instead of Colligo terminators to save some money. However, you need to make sure the lashing lines do not “jump” and ride over each other when tensioning and there may be more friction when tensioning because of the lines touching each other vs. Colligo terminators where each line has it’s own hole.

Colligo Lifeline Terminator

Here is a table I prepared with all the information discussed above on different lifeline replacement options. There are probably a ton of other options and brand available. I looked at some Hayn prices on defender which seemed to be right in-line with sta-lok. You could use regular sk-75 or sk-78 dyneema but you really shouldn’t unless you pre-tension it a ton to take all the initial creep out. Lifelines should be tight and constant adjustment could be a pain. I hope this helps if you are thinking of replacing your lifelines. Please shoot us a comment below and feel free to share this article link!

Lifeline Replacement Options

**Prices are as of the published date of this article and are subject to change **

***Some of the links in the article are affiliate links and we may earn a small commission if a purchase is made through them which helps fund this website and our videos***

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There has been plenty of interest in recent years of replacing traditional PVC-coated steel lifeline wires with alternatives such as bare wire or low stretch, high tech rope.

Using the chart above, you may be able to come up with your own opinion about whether bare steel or rope lifelines are right for you. However, here's a quick synopsis (in our opinion):

PVC Coated Line is best for cruisers

, particularily elderly boaters or ones with young children. This line won't do much for your boat's resale value if they are nearing the end of their lifespan since eventually they will turn yellow and can look terrible. Ocean racers should avoid these lines altogether since any damage is hidden. Overall, these lines require little maintenance. They may be the least strong option, but at least you won't hurt yourself if you fall on them!

Uncoated 1X19 Wire is best for ocean going boats, or modern/stylish sailboats with teak decks. These lines look fantastic and are super strong. However, we pity the poor person who falls on them at full force, as the small diameters can cut you, sometimes badly. Mind you, a bad cut is much better than falling overboard while at sea! These lines may chafe your expensive genoa or spinnaker sheets, but anti-chafing equipment (or even PVC water hose slipped over trouble areas on sheets) can prevent these problems.

High Tech Rope is best for lightweight racing boats, old fashioned boat styles, and DIY boaters (self sufficient do-it-yourself'ers). The weight savings of high tech rope are sometimes worth it, but the ability to adjust, remove or repair lines yourself is the big advantage. For those with wooden boats, or unusual colours, the colour choices of high tech rope will help you find the look you're going for. Will you be boating in remote areas? At the very least, consider carrying lengths of small diameter Spectra as a back up; stainless steel wire can be very expensive in certain parts of the world... and swaging? Forget about it!!

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Medium Boat Kit - Complete Life Line kit - Dyneema SK78 -UP TO 30' Sailboat - LLK001

Product Description

Splice line fittings allow you to easily plice hi tech Dyneema line to standard life line fittings. Great option for cruising sailors that wants to replace their stainless steel life line cables. 

For a significant weight savings, as well as a sleek modern look, Splice Line fittings allow you to easily splice high tech Dyneema line to standard lifeline fittings in place of heavy stainless steel wire. The end terminal of these fittings is a purpose-built, specially formed splicing eye which supports tight synthetic fiber eye splices. • Options on Dyneema Lines 5mm ( 3/16") or 6mm  • Professional splicing is recommended • Splice Line terminal dimensions: 9/16" Dia. x 1-5/8"L • Pin diameter on fittings with pins is 1/4" • Depending on your lifeline configuration, the splice opposite the fitting may need to be done on the vessel

Kit includes:

70' of Dyneema line ( in a choose color ) 2 LS-3600 2 LS-2900

• Tags : DYNEEMA LIFE LINE KIT dyneema life lines Life lines Sailboat Hardware splice life line

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How Tight Should Sailboat Lifelines Be? (Need to Know!)

A lifeline is a safety device frequently found on sailboats and on construction sites. It’s composed of wire and stanchions, which are secured around the ship’s perimeter to prevent passengers from being thrown overboard or accidentally falling. But how tight should they be?

Sailboat lifelines should be tight enough so they only stretch about two inches when hit with a force of 11 pounds (4.98 kg). Lifelines must be tight to prevent falls in high wind, violent waves, and stormy weather in general. A lifeline that gives slack is useless and can not prevent falls.

Read on to learn more about sailboat lifelines and how to care for them!

Table of Contents

How To Inspect Sailboat Lifelines

Inspecting your lifeline is an essential part of sailboat safety. Here are a few things you should prioritize in your inspection:

• Coated lifelines: Check the PVC coating. Chafing, cracks, and wear at the stanchions should be repaired.
• Lock nuts: Make sure that the lock nuts are in place and aren’t loose.
• Sailboat fittings: Check for heavy rust and corrosion on the pelican hooks, gate eyes, toggles, and turnbuckles. Clean away any corrosion you find. 
• Cotter rings or pins: Check that the pins and cotter rings are in place.

Tip: Securing Sailboat Lifelines

Some sailboat lifelines have a gate that will open to allow cargo to be loaded on and off a sailboat. These gates are often secured with a pelican hook. To keep the pelican hook from popping free once the sailboat is underway, secure it with electrical tape. 

Here’s a YouTube video on how to make sailboat lifelines safe and secure: 

In the event that your sailboat needs a replacement pelican hook for its safety rail, here are a few you can replace alongside your lifeline (each link here leads to Amazon.com):

• Heyous Stainless Pelican Hook : This pelican hook is designed for yachts. The package includes one pelican hook and one swage stud at a reasonable price. The swage stud fits 4mm (0.15 inches) wire, rope, or cable.
• Marine Part Depot Stainless Pelican Hook : These pelican hooks are for 3/16″ (0.47 cm) wire. The package comes with two pelican hooks with a classic design, and the product page guarantees “strength and security.”
• Isure Marine Pelican Hook : This pelican hook has a quick-release link. One customer gave it a positive review stating that it was a “real” pelican hook, unlike many of the other hooks marketed as “pelican hooks” on the market.
• JingYi Pelican Hook : This pelican hook is made of T316 marine grade stainless steel, and its product page boasts of “anti-fatigue strength,” meaning it won’t suddenly pop free while you’re sailing through a storm. It fits 5/32″ (0.39 cm) wire, rope, and cable, and comes with one swage stud.

Replacing Sailboat Lifelines (Wire or Synthetic)

If your sailboat lifelines need replacing, there are many options available. The standard sailboat lifeline is made of wire coated in stainless steel. Boats under 30′ (9.14 meters) take ⅛” (0.31 cm) wire, while longer boats take 3/16″ (0.47 cm) wire.

According to the 2016 Safety Equipment Requirements, coated wire is no longer allowed on ocean racing boats. If you don’t plan on racing your sailboat, however, you may still use coated wire. 

Dyneema synthetic lifelines are the most popular type of coated lifelines to date. They’re stronger and lighter than steel, easy to install, can be spliced, are easy to handle, and don’t rust. 

However, one downside of using Dyneema lifelines is that they’re prone to chafing. It would help if you covered vulnerable areas with tape to prevent chafing if using Dyneema lifelines.

The Average Lifespan of Sailboat Lifelines

When properly maintained, the average lifespan of a sailboat lifeline is 15 years. However, the lifespan is typically shorter if your sailboat frequents saltwater versus freshwater. Saltwater boats also have a shorter lifespan due to the damaging effect of sea salt.

As I’ve already mentioned, to extend the lifespan of your lifeline, you’ll need to inspect and maintain it on a regular basis. While the lifespan of lifelines mostly depends on the environment you’re in and how well-maintained the lifelines are, looking at the pros and cons of different lifelines is essential to know how long they would last for you. I’ll go over this in the next section.

Sailboat: Wire Lifelines vs. Rope Lifelines

When choosing lifelines for your boat, you may wonder which type you should purchase. After all, there are many variations of sailboat lifelines, including steel-coated, vinyl-coated, wire, and rope. This section will compare wire lifelines to rope lifelines and explore the pros and cons.

Wire Lifelines For Sailboats

Wire lifelines have their advantages, including being simplistic, relatively cheap to replace, and “reliably sturdy.” This means, that wire has much less stretch than rope lifelines.

However, uncoated wire lifelines can do significant damage to your hands. During the warmer months, they are unbearably hot to the touch. Also, gripping thin wire with your bare hands is painful even when the wire isn’t hot. 

Due to the issues mentioned above, wire lifelines are commonly sold with a vinyl coating. But water tends to enter the ends of the coating over time, which leads to cracking and chafing in the vinyl and the corrosion of the slowly exposed wire. In the end, you will wind up replacing wire lifelines a great deal. 

Rope Lifelines For Sailboats

As explained above, Dyneema lifelines are popular for good reason! They’re more robust than stainless steel wire and they’re sold at a more reasonable price than wire lifelines. This will save you the additional cost it would take when replacing your sailboat’s lifelines.

Other advantages include:

• Dyneema is immune to corrosion and will not be affected by saltwater as quickly.
• Dyneema lifelines are much lighter than wire lifelines.
• Dyneema rope lifelines are easily bent and cut with a knife. Therefore, any section of the rope can be removed at will, whereas wire lifelines require wire cutters. 
• Dyneema lifelines are easier to store than wire lifelines.
• Unlike wire lifelines, Dyneema lifelines can be replaced without the hassle of tools or fittings.

The only downside to Dyneema lifelines is that they are subject to chafing.

Sailboat lifelines should be tight enough to withstand 11 pounds (4.98 kg) of weight or more without slack. No matter which lifeline you choose, it’s essential to inspect your lifeline regularly for any damage before sailing. 

Additionally, you should choose your lifelines well when replacing them, for well-maintained lifelines can be the difference between life and death for you and your crewmates!

Bryan is a Las Vegas resident who loves spending his free time out on the water. Boating on Lake Mohave or Lake Havasu is his favorite way to unwind and escape the hustle and bustle of the city. More about Bryan.

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Lifeline Replacement

• Thread starter dkinzer
• Start date Jan 18, 2023
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

I'm in the process of gathering data to perform lifeline replacement on our 2007 H41AC. It currently has (probably the original) 3/16" stainless wire rope covered in vinyl (making it about 5/16" thick). I was planning to replace the lifelines with bare stainless and the rigging shops that I have consulted are recommending using 3/16" bare stainless. I'm somewhat concerned about the look and feel of 3/16" lifelines in place of the effectively 5/16" lines. I'd be interested to hear opinions and assessments from anyone that has installed 3/16" bare stainless lifelines.  

I replaced my coated lifelines with 3/16” diameter uncoated about ten years ago. I like the look of the bare lifelines better and I don’t have to spend time cleaning white vinyl. No complaints about feel, but I‘m not in the habit of leaning on them or using them as hand holds in any way. Best thing is no worries about corrosion underneath the vinyl.  

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

Try out the various sizes. Find one that you like. I used 1/4” (4/16). I like the extra thickness feel as I grab the line and pull up to stick my feet to the deck. Note some boats have 3/4 to 1”pipe for like lines. There are really not rules limiting how you choose safety on your boat ( as long as your not open water racing). If racing then you need to follow the rule specified in your class.  

Visually, I don't think you will notice the difference after the first day.  

@jssailem : DId you have your lifelines made at a West Marine in the Seattle area? I requested a quote from Northwest Rigging in Anacortes so I might as well get quotes from other Seattle-area riggers. I haven't yet found one in the Portland area. I was hopeful about West Coast Wire Rope in Portland but they referred me to Northwest Rigging. The West Marine in Portland doesn't have a rigging shop so that's a no-go, too.  

Richard19068

Have you considered Dyneema or other HMPE rope?  

Richard19068 said: Have you considered Dyneema or other HMPE rope? Click to expand

dkinzer said: I considered it, yes. My concern with it is the shorter lifespan compared to bare stainless. Click to expand

dlochner said: Good choice. Stainless is forever. If weight is a concern, meaning you are racing and want every possible advantage, then dyneema might be a good choice. Chafe is an issue and making certain the stanchions are free of chafe producing edges is an important detail. Click to expand

dkinzer said: @jssailem : DId you have your lifelines made at a West Marine in the Seattle area? I requested a quote from Northwest Rigging in Anacortes so I might as well get quotes from other Seattle-area riggers. I haven't yet found one in the Portland area. I was hopeful about West Coast Wire Rope in Portland but they referred me to Northwest Rigging. The West Marine in Portland doesn't have a rigging shop so that's a no-go, too. Click to expand

Scott T-Bird

I switched from vinyl-covered to bare stainless on my previous boat and increased the diameter for snugger fit through the stanchions and better feel. I wouldn't go with 3/16". I don't recall if I chose 1/4" or 5/16" but I think John's choice for 1/4" seems about right. I haven't made that switch on our current boat, yet ... still have the vinyl-covered life lines.  

I replaced the coated lifelines on my Hunter 46 with Suncor 316 stainless steel 3/16" kit........very happy with the ease of installation and NO swaging.  

Roadking Larry

Another benefit to Dyneema is that you can do it all yourself with no special tools. A few "Splice-line" fittings a couple of SS thimbles and you're golden.  

stickinthemud57

Roadking Larry said: Another benefit to Dyneema is that you can do it all yourself with no special tools. A few "Splice-line" fittings a couple of SS thimbles and you're golden. Click to expand

Just to point out the obvious. The limiting factor in SS size is passing the swages through the stanchions. The same factor applies to Dyneema if you have them made, but not if you splice them on-site. However, if you want chafe guards on the stanchions, that limits Dyneema size. Another choice is WR2, which is available in 7mm, requires no chafe guards, and is VERY durable. Finally, there is little need for larger diameter on the lower lifeline, through you seldom see people use two different diameters. In part, this is because racers also wear out the lower line by hanging rail meat off it.  

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SC legal advocacy group calls out Beaufort County over Daufuskie ferry ADA problems

M ar. 22—In a Thursday letter to Beaufort County officials, a South Carolina legal advocacy group said the public ferry service between Daufuskie and Hilton Head Islands is discriminatory and challenges or prevents people with disabilities from using it.

Daufuskie Island residents say they are hopeful Disability Rights South Carolina's involvement is the push the county needs to rectify safety concerns with the ferry. The group is the state's Protection and Advocacy system, meaning that the U.S. Congress legally established the organization to protect the rights of individuals with disabilities.

Now, the group is looking out for Daufuskie Island residents and tourists who use the publicly contracted ferry to Hilton Head. On an island with no hospital, no major grocery stores, and a heavy reliance on tourism, residents say the ferry is their lifeline. The letter, signed by attorney Rebecca Fulmer, asserts: "Beaufort County may not contract away its responsibilities under the ADA."

Beaufort County switched contractors for the service from Haig Point Community Associates to Lowcountry Ferry in January after seven years. Since the change, riders have complained about lower service at higher prices, and those who are disabled say they struggle to use the ferry. Last week, a rider fell into the water along with the ramp while embarking the boat.

Despite mounting objections and discrepancies between Lowcountry Ferry's bid proposal and provided service, the county hasn't moved to cancel the contract. Chairman Joseph Passiment said the process to terminate a contract starts with a notice of violation, and to his knowledge, there haven't been any notices of violation. Instead, Passiment said the county is working with the public and the provider to make changes.

"They haven't budged," Daufuskie Island Council chairman Kade Yarborough said of the county despite islander's complaints.

Yarborough said residents are more optimistic the county will make a change now that Disability Rights South Carolina is involved.

"I think that now a potential court case could be involved," Yarborough said. "That's applying a little bit more of a stern tone towards Beaufort County Council rather than, you know, your average Joe Schmo complaining about it."

The group isn't a stranger to bringing lawsuits against South Carolina counties. It filed a class action lawsuit against Richland County on behalf of detainees with serious mental illness confined in the county detention center. It has also filed suits against Charleston County and multiple state departments.

When contacted via phone and email, Fulmer wasn't immediately available to comment about what actions Disability Rights South Carolina might take after the letter. In the letter they requested a reply and for the county to advise of its plan to "remedy the discrimination." County spokesperson Hannah Nichols said the county received the letter and forwarded it to Lowcountry Ferry.

The Island Packet and Beaufort Gazette reached a representative from Lowcountry Ferry on the phone Thursday, who said owner Neil Turner wasn't available for comment.

What has happened since the man fell into the water?

The Coast Guard inspected the ferry boat, called the Manatee II, since the incident and found it to be compliant with regulations, according to spokesperson Petty Officer 1st Class Ryan Dickinson.

Residents said the ferry is using the same ramp that the man fell in the water using on March 14.

"Everyone who gets on the boat has seen it," Daufuskie Island resident Matthew Keller said. He said he takes the ferry to Hilton Head one to three times a month.

Dickinson said that the embarkation ramp doesn't fall under the Coast Guard's jurisdiction and the vessel had the means required to recover a man overboard. Video shows that crew members were unable to get the man out of the water and instead the man had to be towed in the water by another boat to a separate dock.

Keller said that before the incident he and his wife noticed the ramp's instability and mentioned it to the crew.

"It was something they were aware of," he said.

This story was originally published March 22, 2024, 1:00 PM.

(c)2024 The Island Packet (Hilton Head, S.C.) Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.

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