bristol 38.8 sailboat review

BRISTOL 38.8 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of BRISTOL 38.8. Built by Bristol Yachts and designed by Ted Hood, the boat was first built in 1982. It has a hull type of Keel/Cbrd. and LOA is 11.66. Its sail area/displacement ratio 16.69. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by Universal, runs on Diesel.

BRISTOL 38.8 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about BRISTOL 38.8 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, auxillary power tank, accomodations, contributions, who designed the bristol 38.8.

BRISTOL 38.8 was designed by Ted Hood.

Who builds BRISTOL 38.8?

BRISTOL 38.8 is built by Bristol Yachts.

When was BRISTOL 38.8 first built?

BRISTOL 38.8 was first built in 1982.

How long is BRISTOL 38.8?

BRISTOL 38.8 is 9.32 m in length.

What is mast height on BRISTOL 38.8?

BRISTOL 38.8 has a mast height of 13.87 m.

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• Sailboat Reviews

Bristol 39/40

The looks of these twins are strictly traditional, but so is the interior room modern 33-footers have more..

The Bristol 39 and Bristol 40 are basically the same boat, even though the specifications state that the Bristol 40 is nearly a foot longer than the Bristol 39. According to the builder, the hull sections aft were made slightly fuller on the Bristol 40, and the stemhead fitting was altered. After very careful scaling of plans, we can say with reasonable confidence that from one end of the hull to the other, excluding the bow pulpit and the anchor roller, the Bristol 39 and Bristol 40 are about 39′ 8″ long. Whether you call it a 39-footer or a 40-footer is up to you.

But this is not a 40′ boat in the modern sense. Yes, if you take a tape measure to the boat, you’ll read almost 40′. But if you go below, you’ll swear you stepped onto a 33′ boat—at least if you’re used to looking at the 33-footers built today.

With a waterline length of 27′ 6″ and a beam of 10′ 9″, The Bristol 40’s proportions are about as typical as you can get of cruising/racing sailboats built between about 1930, when the CCA (Cruising Club of America) rule was conceived, and 1970, when it was replaced by the International Offshore Rule (IOR). For those 40 years, about 30% of the average boat’s length was in overhangs. Today, you find the waterline length and beam of the Bristol 40 on boats less than 35′ long.

About 150 Bristol 40s were built. This does not include the relatively small number of boats in the Bristol 39 series.

The 39 was one of the first models built by Bristol Yachts, entering production in 1966. Beginning with 1972 models, the boat was rechristened the Bristol 40. The last Bristol 40 was built in 1986.

If you like traditional yachts, you’ll find the Bristol 40 appealing. The boat has the long overhangs, lovely sheerline, low freeboard, narrow cabin trunk undistorted hull shape, and narrow beam we associate with the beautiful yachts of the past. If you didn’t know she was a Ted Hood design, you might mistake her for a boat by Olin Stephens, John Alden, or Phil Rhodes. The trade-off for these traditional good looks is a boat with a small interior compared to today’s 40- footers.

Sailing Performance “Fast” is a very relative term when you’re talking about sailboats. The Bristol 40 is not fast relative to more modern 40-footers, but her performance is similar to that of other boats of her length built under the CCA rule, when boats were heavier and shorter on the waterline than they are today. The boat is close in speed, for example, to the Hinckley Bermuda 40 yawls with the original low aspect ratio rig. It is about 30 seconds per mile slower, however, than the Cal 40—a boat of the same length on deck, but with a longer waterline, less wetted surface and slightly less displacement.

In both keel and centerboard versions, the Bristol 40 is a fairly tippy boat, as you would expect from her narrow beam, shoal draft, and modest amount of ballast. Like “fast,” however, “tippy” is a relative term.

Most narrow boats have relatively low initial stability, even if their ultimate stability is good. For example, the McCurdy and Rhodes 62-footer Arcadia, built in 1972, is about 2′ narrower than a new IOR 60- footer would be, and has a righting moment about 15% lower than that of the new boat, even though Arcadia is significantly heavier.

Yet Arcadia’s range of positive stability is about 143°, while the typical “modern” racer/cruiser loses positive stability at 120° or less.

Unfortunately, being narrow and tippy doesn’t guarantee a good range of ultimate stability. The keel version of the Bristol 40 loses positive righting moment at about 120°—the absolute minimum we would consider for a serious offshore cruiser. The centerboard version’s range of stability is less—about 110° for the only boat rated under the International Measurement System (IMS).

It is not unusual for centerboarders to have very low positive stability. The Hinckley Bermuda 40— the classic keel-centerboarder—typically loses stability at an even lower angle than the centerboard Bristol 40, yet few people would consider the boat unsuitable for passage making.

Owners report that the Bristol 40 is very sensitive to the amount of sail carried. We’d suggest a modern headsail reefing/furling system for shorthanded cruising to reduce the number of headsail changes required. Like most CCA boats, the Bristol 40 is a good reaching boat, lacking the rounding-up tendency of many modern boats with full sterns. The trade-off is that the boat tends to squat when running downwind, digging a hole that’s hard to climb out of. A Bristol 40 with a full keel won the 1983 Marion- Bermuda Race, an event that consisted largely of four days of close reaching in light to moderate breezes.

Because the boat is narrow, there is no need to move the genoa track inboard of the toerail. The only real disadvantage of toerail-mounted genoa track is that you may have to relead the sheet to clear stanchions when changing headsails or reducing sail area with a headsail furler, unless there are turning blocks at the aft end of the genoa track.The two most common mainsheet arrangements on the boat are a short traveler spanning the cockpit immediately in front of the steering wheel, or a longer traveler over the coachroof in front of the companionway. The short traveler in the cockpit doesn’t really offer much mainsail control, but it is a convenient location for the sheet.

The rig is a basic masthead sloop or yawl, using an untapered, keel-stepped anodized mast with single spreaders and double lower shrouds: basically foolproof. The lower shroud chainplates do not line up exactly with the pull of the shrouds, which will tend to fatigue the chainplates over time, as well as increasing the likelihood of leaks due to an unfair pulling angle.

Since this is a boat that was in production for the better part of 20 years, it’s difficult to generalize about the sailing gear you’ll find. On the Bristol 40s we’ve looked at, the stock winches tend to be one or two sizes smaller than we’d put on the boat today. You’re unlikely to find self-tailers on older models.

A lot of Bristol 40s were built as yawls. While the yawl rig is pretty and looks very traditional, the mizzen is generally only useful to help balance the helm, as a convenient place to mount a radar  antenna, and to serve as a support for a mizzen staysail on the rare occasion that it pays to carry one. The mizzen makes the boat more tippy and increases windage—disadvantages for upwind sailing.

Engine Before 1970, Bristol 39s came with either Atomic 4 or Graymarine gas engines. Later model 39s and Bristol 40s were powered either by the Atomic 4 or by a variety of diesels, including the Westerbeke 4-91, Westerbeke 4-107 and 4-108, Perkins 4-108, or Volvo MD2B and MD3B engines. That should be enough variety to satisfy everyone.

The Westerbeke and Perkins 4-108s are essentially the same engine, and in our opinion would be the best engine for the boat, although they’re more power than it needs. Diesel engine installations in the Bristol 40 are not without problems. There is little room between the shaft coupling and the stuffing box—so little, in fact, that several owners surveyed reported that it is almost impossible to reach the stuffing box for adjustment or repacking.

In all models, the fuel tank is located under the cockpit sole, above the engine. Fuel capacity is about 30 gallons. Early diesel-powered models have black iron fuel tanks, and at least one owner surveyed reported having to replace a rusted-out tank after a years. Later models have aluminum fuel tanks, which are less likely to corrode. Range under power with the Perkins 4-108 and 30 gallons of fuel will be about 180 miles.

The gasoline engines used in early models swing a small prop. Unfortunately, when the switch was made to bigger diesels—the Perkins 4-108 displaces 108 cubic inches, the Atomic 4 only 65 cubic inches— the propeller aperture was not enlarged, limiting prop size. We measured the height to be 16 1/2″, which means you can really only swing about a 15″ prop and still maintain adequate tip clearance. The result is that you end up turning an oversquare prop (more pitch than diameter), which is not the most efficient way to utilize the engine in a sailboat.

Our prop choice would be a three-bladed feathering Maxprop for the best combination of performance under both sail and power. The Maxprop would also slightly improve handling in reverse, which is rated as poor by most owners. A tiny fixed prop tucked in an aperture in the deadwood and rudder is a bad combination for handling in reverse. Powering ahead, the boat handles just fine.

There is no sound insulation in the engine compartment. Access to the front of the engine is fair, requiring removal of the front of the engine box which doubles as the companionway ladder.

Construction Bristol Yachts has gone through a lot of changes over the years. The prime mover behind Bristol was Clint Pearson, one of the pioneering Pearson brothers— the other, Everett, now runs Tillotson-Pearson.

The boats built by Bristol today are a far cry from those of 15 years ago. Current Bristols are targeted toward the middle to upper end of the production and semi-custom markets, with very good finish detail and systems. Originally, Bristols were aimed at the mass market, and were finished and equipped accordingly.

Since the Bristol 40 was built over a period of 20 years, there were a number of minor changes during the production run, but the last boats are essentially the same as the first ones.

The Bristol 40 is not a particularly lightly built boat, but she is certainly not heavy for her overall length, even by modern standards. The boat is substantially lighter than most long-keel CCA 40-footers. The Hinckley Bermuda 40, for example, displaces about 20,000 pounds in normal trim. The Cal 40, considered a real lightweight in 1966, weighs about 16,000 pounds in IMS measurement trim; the average Bristol 40, right at 17,000 pounds in the same configuration.

By way of comparison, the Little Harbor 38 that won the 1986 Newport-Bermuda Race tips the scales at a hefty 25,000 pounds, and the newer Bristol 38.8 has a designed displacement of just over 19,000 pounds.

None of the Bristol 40 owners we surveyed report any major structural flaws. They do, however, complain of annoyances such as leaking ports, deck hardware, and hull/deck joints. These are generally assembly and quality control problems, and most can be solved by the owner, albeit with a fair amount of labor. A leaking hull/deck joint may be more of a problem, but this type of leak should show up during a careful examination of the boat. Discoloration and water streaks inside lockers and on bulkheads, rust and drips on through-fastenings, and mysterious puddles of water may indicate leaks in the joint.

From a cruiser’s point of view, a nice feature of the Bristol 40 is its water capacity: 130 gallons in two fiberglass water tanks.

Any sailboat hull older that about eight years is getting on toward being a candidate for painting. While the gelcoat in the Bristol 40s we examined still looks reasonable, most of the colored hulls—pastels were popular in the 70s—are badly faded. The colored gelcoat used was not colorfast.

We also noted numerous gelcoat flaws on decks cracks around stanchion bases, some voids at sharp corner transitions. During the survey, the surveyor should carefully sound the entire deck for voids. If you’re going to go to the trouble and expense of painting, you might as well catch all the problems at the same time.

Deck non-skid is a molded-in basket weave pattern, and we have found it to be less effective than more aggressive non-skid designs.

The cockpit is huge, with seats almost 7′ long. The well is narrow enough that you can brace your feet against the opposite seat—a good feature on any boat, but especially important on a tippy boat. The big cockpit is a mixed blessing. It gives plenty of space for daysailing or in-port parties, but it is also vulnerable to filling in extremely heavy offshore conditions.

In our opinion, the cockpit scuppers are too small. Each of the two scuppers is about the size of a bathtub drain. Since there is no bridgedeck—just a raised companionway sill—it is particularly important that the cockpit drain quickly. This is a pretty reasonable retrofit job. For offshore sailing, the bottom dropboard should be caulked and permanently secured in place.

There is a reasonable amount of exterior teak trim on the boat, including toerails, cabin eyebrow trim, handrails, and cockpit coamings. A Bristol 40 with a freshly-Awlgripped hull and varnished teak trim would look handsome, indeed.

On the port and starboard quarters, there are large chocks for dock lines. While these look substantial, they are only screwed to the toerails, and can easily tear out. Chocks can be very heavily loaded during panic dockings, and should always be through-bolted, as should all deck hardware.

Through hull fittings are not recessed flush, but can easily be faired in to reduce drag in very light air. The Constellation-style rudder is set slightly above the aft edge of the keel, so that the boat will ground out on the keel rather than the rudder.

Instead of a bolt-on external keel, the Bristol 40 has a molded keel cavity filled with 6,500 pounds of lead. One owner we surveyed had added 1,500 pounds of lead pigs in the bilge to improve stability.

Interior Bristol has always made extensive use of built-up interiors of plywood and solid wood, rather than fiberglass molded components trimmed out in solid wood. The company has also made extensive use of mahogany rather than teak in interior construction.

If you’re used to the dull brown of teak, the brighter reddish-brown of the mahogany interior of the Bristol may or may not appeal to you. Mahogany must be varnished: it is not suited to an oil finish in a marine environment. If you let the varnish wear off, the wood will turn grey, particularly after exposure to water.

At the same time, mahogany is lighter and brighter than teak, and can make an all-wood interior slightly less gloomy. If all else fails, you can always paint out the mahogany bulkheads and leave the mahogany trim varnished. Teak plywood is much harder to paint out, since its waxy surface doesn’t hold paint very well.

The built-up interior allowed a number of interior options in the Bristol 39 and 40. As originally drawn, the boat had a wide-open offshore racing interior, with a sail locker forward, the head in the area normally reserved for a forward sleeping cabin, and symmetrical pilot berths, settees, and quarterberths in the main cabin. While it provides six sea berths, this interior has little appeal for a cruising family. Most boats were built with one of several more conventional interior layouts.

One advantage of long-ended boats is that the Vberths don’t have to be jammed into the bow. Instead, you get berths that are wide enough at the foot for normal-sized people. The forward cabin of the Bristol 40 is quite roomy, with two berths and various lockers and drawers. An insert turns the V-berths into a reasonable double berth.

The head compartment is aft of the forward cabin, on the port side. It is a big, roomy head, with rather remarkable storage, including 10 small drawers and three lockers. All boats came with hot and cold pressure water, and have a hand-held shower attached to the head sink fixture.

Opposite the head are the usual hanging lockers.

Several different main cabin layouts were offered, with an arrangement to please just about every fairly conventional taste. On the port side, you’ll find either a settee berth with storage outboard, a Ushaped dinette, or a narrow pull-out settee with a pilot berth outboard. On the starboard side, you’ll usually find a settee with a folding pipe berth above, although some boats were built with a conventional pilot berth outboard of the starboard settee.

On boats without a dinette, the main cabin table folds up against the port forward bulkhead—a reasonable solution in a narrow boat.

Main cabin storage space is quite good, with a number of drawers and lockers. The actual storage arrangement varies with each interior layout.

Ventilation in the main cabin, as well as in the entire boat, is so-so. There is an opening port in the head, and a cowl vent overhead. There is another cowl vent on the other side of the cabin trunk opposite the head, providing some air to the forward cabin and main cabin in foul weather. Over the forward cabin is a large fiberglass hatch.

A fiberglass hatch over the main cabin was optional. The main cabin ports do not open. Ventilation would be greatly improved by adding Dorade boxes just in front of the dodger breakwater at the aft end of the main cabin. If you also put a reversible aluminum-framed hatch directly over the middle of the main cabin, and added a small dodger to it for heavy weather protection, you’d go from lousy ventilation to good airflow in one fell swoop.

We’re not keen on the fiberglass hatches used in production boats in the 1970s. They distort easily, and never seem to seal completely.

Headroom is about 6′ 4″ on centerline aft, decreasing to about 6′ in the forward cabin.

In all interior layouts other than the original ocean racing one, the galley is at the aft end of the main cabin. There are two aft galley arrangements. One is spacious but not particularly efficient, the other is tight. On boats equipped with a quarterberth and nav station on the port side, the galley is jammed into the starboard aft corner, and is small for a 40-footer. On boats without a nav station, stove and sink are on the port side, with a large icebox opposite to starboard. The top of the icebox is then used as a navigation table. Neither galley layout is as good as the Ushaped galley used on more modern boats such as the Bristol 38.8.

You’ll have to make a choice on the galley layout. A nav station is very desirable if the boat is used for more than daysailing. Yet the starboard galley you get on boats with nav stations is quite small, and doesn’t have much storage for foodstuffs or utensils.

Even on boats with the port nav station, the  electrical panel is located on the starboard side, above the galley and next to the companionway, in a fiberglass box that’s a molded part of the cabin liner. We’d want to give better protection to the panel by building a frame with an opening clear acrylic cover.

Despite the narrowness of the Bristol 40 compared to newer boats, the interior is reasonably laid out and not cramped. Headroom is good, and you can easily make improvements in ventilation. The interior doesn’t seem as spacious as a lot of boats due to the fairly narrow, tall cabin trunk. Newer designs have more freeboard, allowing a lower cabin trunk and increasing the feel of interior space.

Conclusions Like the better-known Bermuda 40, the Bristol 40 is an exceptionally pretty boat, and those good looks are one factor that kept the boat in production for such a long time. But the Bermuda 40 has been carefully refined, and its reputation nurtured by a group of nearly-fanatical owners who are willing to pay rather remarkably high prices for a design that is now 30 years old.

The Bristol 40, on the other hand, lacks that reputation and following. A few Bristol 40s were built for die-hards even after the boat was superseded in 1983 by the faster, roomier, stiffer Bristol 38.8—a design that is a distinctly more modern Hood cruiser/racer.

Because of her large cockpit, small cockpit drains, slightly vulnerable companionway, and fairly low initial stability, this boat wouldn’t be a good choice for extended offshore cruising, although Bristol 40s have certainly done their share of it. For cruising in the Chesapeake, Bahamas, or Gulf of Mexico, the keel-centerboard version would be a reasonable choice, and even the deep keel model draws substantially less than most 40-footers.

A late-model, sloop-rigged boat with Perkins or Westerbeke diesel would be our first choice. Since relatively few changes were made in the boat during the years of production, however, you might also find a good older boat on which a lot of attention has been lavished.

If you like traditional looks, and you cruise in shoal coastal waters without extremely heavy winds a lot of the time, the Bristol 40 should appeal to you. You’re a natural candidate for the boat if the looks of the Bermuda 40 catch your eye, but you don’t have the pocketbook to indulge yourself in Hinckley quality.

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Review of Bristol 38.8

Basic specs.

The hull is made of fibreglass. Generally, a hull made of fibreglass requires only a minimum of maintenance during the sailing season.

CentreBoard

The Bristol 38.8 is equipped with a centreboard keel. A centreboard keel is a pivoting lifting keel, allowing to sail both coastal and inland waters.

The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 1.37 - 1.47 meter (4.49 - 4.79 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.

The boat is typically equipped with an inboard Universal diesel engine

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 7.4 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Bristol 38.8 is about 231 kg/cm, alternatively 1295 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 231 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 1295 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

What is a Ballast Ratio?

Maintenance

When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 48m 2 (516 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Bristol 38.8 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

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• Sailboat Guide

Bristol 38.8

Bristol 38.8 is a 38 ′ 3 ″ / 11.7 m monohull sailboat designed by Ted Hood and built by Bristol Yachts between 1982 and 1996.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

A similar version was called the BRISTOL 3800. WAUQUIEZ HOOD 38 and LITTLE HARBOR 38 are based on this same hull design.

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Bristol 38.8

The bristol 38.8 is a 38.25ft masthead sloop designed by ted hood and built in fiberglass by bristol yachts between 1982 and 1996., 82 units have been built., it accomodates 6 people in 2 cabins plus salon..

The Bristol 38.8 is a moderate weight sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a bluewater cruising boat. The fuel capacity is originally small. There is a good water supply range.

Bristol 38.8 for sale elsewhere on the web:

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> > Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. 15-06-2021, 17:02   Boat: Bristol, 38.8, LOA 38.25 ft at the end of the month and sailing her to her new homeport at Barnegat, . We live nearby on Long Beach Island, and are looking forward to many cruises from here to all over the US and farther. Are there other Bristol 38.8 owners at CF? Perhaps we can begin a Bristol Owners Group within CF? We are looking forward to visiting, and sharing honest attempts at with all. We just keep trying. Best wishes to all for a safe, enjoyable and exciting sailing season! Kevin & Dina Walsh Galatea Barnegat, NJ 15-06-2021, 17:14   Boat: 1962 Columbia 29 MK 1 #37 but starting a Bristol group is a good idea too. Facebook has an active Bristol owners group I hear too. Send photos! 15-06-2021, 17:50   Boat: Bristol 29.9 . Fair winds, 23-06-2021, 02:31   Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt) Thread Tools Rate This Thread : Posting Rules post new threads post replies post attachments edit your posts is are code is are are are Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post schtompenbroner Europe & Mediterranean 1 22-05-2019 11:20 Sun and Moon Construction, Maintenance & Refit 15 31-01-2014 08:57 For Sale: Arclight Classifieds Archive 0 04-04-2010 07:41 No Threads to Display. - - - - - - - Privacy Guaranteed - your email is never shared with anyone, opt out any time. Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media Media New media New comments Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe Bristol 38.8 Fresh Water Cooling System Thread starter DBG21661 Start date Dec 5, 2021 Brand-Specific Forums I've just purchased a 1984 Bristol 38.8, and now I have some chores to do. She has the original Universal 5444 engine, and and an added Rariton electric water heater. I want to drain, flush and replace the internal coolant. While I've done this on other boats, this one is less straightforward. I find only one drain fitting, on the port side of the block. It doesn't look like it's been used much. Access to the engine top valve cover coolant cap is awkward and makes no allowance for pouring New coolant in. There is a red metal container just inside the deep locker on the starboard cockpit side, plumbed to a fitting on the engine top, and also to the water heater. This is also plumbed to the adjacent plastic overflow bottle. Both contain coolant. What is the purpose of this metal container? Is the engine block drain the only one? How is new coolant added after draining, through the metal container or somehow through the valve cover opening (which looks to require some kind of pump to lift the coolant into it)? What about the water heater hooked into this system?   Might look at the cooling system diagram in the attached parts list and operator manual attached but did not see the metal container and overflow bottle.   Attachments 200148 universal 5444 part list (1).pdf 647.8 KB Views: 179 200157_m12-m50_operator_man.pdf 5.9 MB Views: 128 sail sfbay said: Might look at the cooling system diagram in the attached parts list and operator manual attached but did not see the metal container and overflow bottle. Click to expand This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more… Forum Listing Marketplace Advanced Search About The Boat Boat Review Forum SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more! Bristol 35.5 Offshore and Liveaboard? Add to quote Thinking about my next boat-lived aboard my Pearson Vanguard long enough and the youngest will be out of school in a couple years. I need a boat to live aboard that gives me a tad bit more room than my old Vanguard. Looking at the Ted Hood design with a centerboard. Would like comments on build quality and performance, storage etc. Tankage looks good, galley is better than what I have and finish is a definite upgrade. Plans are down the eastern seaboard, carribean and possibly further. Have never sailed a boat with a board, understand the advantages, but what about the drawbacks? Whats it like with a board down in a storm? Will it heave to as easily as my Vanguard does?   We have a bristol 38.8. The two boats are very similar. While I don't have time to write too much, we did sail ours from Cape Cod to the Caribbean and back. The fuel capacity is lacking. This would be my biggest complaint. The engine on the 35.5 would not burn as much, so you are better off even if the capacity is the same. I was so concerned that the centerboard wasn't going to come back up, that we never used it. I had been meaning to get the cable serviced before we left but hadn't. Needless to say, she sails pretty good without it. Of course there is some performance loss going up wind. We have been back in New England for a few years now and the cable has been replaced. So we use the board when we need it and it works great. The only really big con is the cable & attachment and if it does break its a nightmare to get rerouted. Some of the bristol guys are now using line instead of a cable. Its called blue-something. I actually completely forget the name of the line, but its something like that and it is very strong and holds up in salt water.   Craig, thanks for the reply. What about centerboard slap at anchor? Is it annoying or noticeable? Also, beating-does it swing or move that you notice? If you were in a gale hove to would you be comfortable the board would stay put?   Amsteel blue is the 'go to' high strength rope for replacing the steel cable. I've not used it in large boats, but it works wonderfully in a Hunter 216. My Gemini (centerboard in each hull) had a problem with rudder knock at anchor, but the centerboard never made a sound. You can fair the slot with fiberglass and such and reduce any slop fairly easily on any centerboard model, it also decreases drag considerably.   Build quality is about as good as it gets.   I own one but no offshore experience yet. Strong boat and well updated should be able to do what you want. I have red that cockpit drains maybe slow and I may modify this design in the future. Handles quite well with centerboard up and I sailed that way for 2 seasons due to a cable issue which is now resolved.   We have a big sister, the 45.5, and have about 30,000 miles on it. We use the cb in two circumstances, going to windward where the board gets pinned against the side of the case so it is silent. We also use it to balance the helm with the vane steering. It can bang back and forth in this use as the boat goes over swells. The rest of the time it is up including in really strong winds (couple of times with 55 knots) and quiet. Bristols are built like tanks and I can recommend one without reservation. You might also look at the Hood 38 for a similar boat with more space.   HI all and thanks for your responses. seriously evaluating a 35.5. Two drawbacks to my mind, one smaller and one really giving me pause. The cockpit is comfortable and deep with only two small scuppers. that can be addressed. The companionway entrance goes almost to the floor of the cockpit though. If you take a lot of water aboard better have a couple of drop boards in place or better yet have modified the entrance permanently. Engine access is a bigger concern. In my first look, I can't see how the thing is maintained. The stuffing box looks like it could only be serviced by removing the exhaust manifold (and you know thats not coming off easily). Anybody out there have a 35.5 they service themselves?   The point that is often missed, concerning the cockpit scuppers, is that the real equation is how the bouyancy of the boat relates to the weight of a cockpit full of water. The 35.5 is a big boat with a smallish cockpit, as opposed to some of the modern boats which are half cockpit! It's worth having a couple of hatch boards in when sailing in bad weather, but I wouldn't be modifying the hatch, or the scuppers. The engine access can be considerably improved by fitting a large access hatch in the cockpit sole, on my list of things to do. It won't help with the stuffing box but it does with access to the fuel pump, filter, oil filter, oil filler, thermostat, etc. I get the yard to do the stuffing box when she's hauled for bottom paint. Access isn't my problem.   Mark et al, Really appreciate the feedback-cockpits without bridge decks worry me, but are not complete deal killers. Engine access is though and I am researching further-some other owners have talked about modifying access which looks like an option too. will be doing a revisit and more detailed looksee shortly. Thanks again for everyones feedback   I did see a blog where a guy built a bridge deck on an older Bristol, maybe a 32. It seemed reasonably easy to do - some fibreglassing, basically.   I own a 1978 Bristol 35.5 and mine came with a bridgedeck and a traveler bedded into it. Either stress of the rig or water/ice intrusion caused cracks down into cabin under the traveler. The yard moved the traveler foward of the dodger, reinforced, filled and glassed the bridgedeck giving us a much more comfortable seating area. You may want to look at models from the early production run. The downside is that my galley is not L shaped as in later boats. The change propably happened in 1979/1980 or may have bin a factory option.   Hi JimPendoley. It sounds like we're looking for the same type of boat. Have you found one? I'm looking for a bluewater cruiser, 35-39', preferably no centerboard, good-sailing boat (goes upwind reasonably well for a cruiser), easy to singlehand. What did you decide about the Bristol 35.5's scuppers, bridge deck, and engine access (I'm looking at the keel version; no centerboard)? She was at the top of my list until I started thinking about these drawbacks. You mention that the scupper size is fixable? What other boats were/are you looking at, and what have you settled on? Thanks for any help you can give! Best, Patti P.S. Sorry, I tried to send this as a private message but apparently I'm too new to do that.   Hi Patti, I looked at a Valiant 37 the other day, but it was a blister model and I could not bear the idea of a restoral effort only to have the blisters reappear every few years. I really struggle with the idea of selling my Vanguard because I've finally got it just about the way I want it set up. I'm hoping to get a look at a Whitby 42 this weekend. what models have you been considering?   Hi Jim. Can we email? Svlutra, that symbol, gmail. (No commas: ) Thanks, Patti   Jim, I have a Tartan 37C which also has a low companionway sill, If I am heading offshore, I keep at least the first drop board in (which brings it up to the seat height) and secure it with a detent pin keeping the board from rising. This would be the same height of a bridge deck but has the main benefit of removal for easy access to the cabin. Best of both worlds, so don't let the lack of a bridge deck stop you! I also have a centerboard and have not had any experience of it wobbling or slapping....... A friend of mine has a Bristol 31.1 and it is a well built boat but the engine access is a b_tch! Tom   ?             176K members Top Contributors this Month 280 IMAGES BRISTOL 38.8: Reviews, Specifications, Built, Engine 1985 Bristol 38.8 Bristol 38.8 Brochure Sailboat for sale- Bristol 38.8 "Meridian" Slideshow BRISTOL 38.8 Bristol 38.8 COMMENTS BRISTOL 38.8: Reviews, Specifications, Built, Engine Built by Bristol Yachts and designed by Ted Hood, the boat was first built in 1982. It has a hull type of Keel/Cbrd. and LOA is 11.66. Its sail area/displacement ratio 16.69. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by Universal, runs on Diesel. BRISTOL 38.8 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a ... Bristol 38.8 Bristol 38.8. The Bristol 38.8 is on our short list, primarilly for the reasons you stated in your recent post about your Hood. What are the primary differences between the Bristol, Hood and Little Harbor. (I know we do not want the upkeep involved with teak decks) As you know, I have a Wauquiez Hood 38 MK II and am very happy with it. Thoughts on Bristol vs. Morgan 38 footers Boat: Cal 20. Posts: 20,825. Re: Thoughts on Bristol vs. Morgan 38 footers. If you want to compare how heavily/strongly they are built look at non-ballast weight (Displacement - Ballast). Bristol & 384 are about even. If the Morgan is the 382 model then it has about a 2,000lb advantage in "structural" weight. BRISTOL 38.8 It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5 Bristol 38.8 thoughts? The 38.8 is a great boat, here's several sources of info: 1. The Bristol Owner's Association: Bristol Owners' Association Home Page. 2. The Bristol thread on this site: 3. The very active Bristol owners group: BristolYachts : Bristol Yachts. s/v Paloma, Bristol 29.9, #141. Slipped in Bahia Marina, easy access to Corpus Christi Bay and the Gulf ... Bristol 39/40 The 39 was one of the first models built by Bristol Yachts, entering production in 1966. Beginning with 1972 models, the boat was rechristened the Bristol 40. The last Bristol 40 was built in 1986. If you like traditional yachts, you'll find the Bristol 40 appealing. The boat has the long overhangs, lovely sheerline, low freeboard, narrow ... Bristol 38.8 Heaving To 6. Bristol 38.8 Jamestown, RI. Jul 6, 2011. #7. Well, I've completed the purchase and will be sailing the boat home this coming Sunday. Yes, my guess is that the 38.8 will heave to just fine if the genny is rolled in a bit. I may also want to play around with the centerboard to see if it has any effect. Review of Bristol 38.8 CentreBoard. The Bristol 38.8 is equipped with a centreboard keel. A centreboard keel is a pivoting lifting keel, allowing to sail both coastal and inland waters. The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 1.37 - 1.47 meter (4.49 - 4.79 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below. Bristol 38.8 Bristol 38.8 is a classic bluewater cruising boat designed by Ted Hood and built by Bristol Yachts between 1982 and 1996. It has a stub keel and centerboard, a sloop rig, and a displacement of 8,686 kg. Bristol 38.8 The Bristol 38.8 is a 38.25ft masthead sloop designed by Ted Hood and built in fiberglass by Bristol Yachts between 1982 and 1996. 82 units have been built. It accomodates 6 people in 2 cabins plus salon. The Bristol 38.8 is a moderate weight sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a good righting ... Bristol 38.8 (1986), Tartan 40 (1987) Or the mods could move it to the Boat Review and Purchase forum where it belongs. S/V First Tracks 1985 Cal 33-2. Save Share. Like. roverhi. ... Available a lot cheaper than the Bristol 38.8 and good construction quality. Save Share. Like. Lazerbrains. Buying a Bristol 38 Dec 19, 2015. 8. Bristol 38' St Augustine. Dec 19, 2015. #1. Hi Guys, I'm new to the forum and in the process of buying a Bristol 38 for winter sailing in the Bahamas and the Caribbean. I have no experience in Bristol 38's and any advice and info would be most welcome. Bristol Yachts 38.8 Lift Keel The Bristol 38.8 is a beautiful looking yacht, with a fine ocean-going hull, combined with the versatility of a lifting keel. Keel up, her shallow draft open... What Does it Take to Turn an Old Boat into an Ocean ... The complete sail inventory will include the mainsail, a 150 percent genoa, an asymmetrical cruising chute with a sock, a 90 percent jib and a hank-on storm jib. This wardrobe makes for ease of handling in all conditions, and gives Sojourner a good turn of speed in light air. The headsails, including the spinnaker, all came with the boat and ... Bristol 38.8 is now berthing at CF! Hello Team CF! We forgot to introduce ourselves upon initially becoming CF members a while ago. Now, we have purchased a new-to-us 1983 Bristol 38.8, named Galatea and are fetching her from way up at Down East Maine at the end of the month and sailing her to her new homeport at Barnegat, New Jersey.We live nearby on Long Beach Island, New Jersey and are looking forward to many cruises from ... Bristol 38.8 overheat Oct 21, 2012. 1. Bristol 38.8 Tiverton RI. Oct 21, 2012. #1. Hi all. We bought a Bristol 38.8 a couple years ago and love her. A great sailor and beautiful to behold. We do have a gremlin though, the original Universal 44 engine is prone to airlocks in the cooling system, which cause overheating problems. ~ 1986 SABRE 38 MKII VS ~1986 BRISTOL 38.8 or 42 Thank you so much! First of all, the keel version of Sabre is a considerably faster boat than the Bristol 38.8 or wildly faster than the 40 especially in lighter winds. This means that you might spend less time motoring and more time sailing with the Sabre 38 mk 2. While none of the boats is a light weight the Sabre is about 3000 lbs lighter ... 1983 Bristol 38.8 Cruiser for sale The Bristol 38.8 is a keel/centerboard design, and draws only 4'6" with the board up and 10'3" down for exceptional windward and downwind performance. She has proven to be a great boat for both rigorous offshore ocean passages and shoal waters. Her double spreader rig, with both outboard and inboard shrouds provide good performance. Thoughts on Bristol Yachts? 7 posts · Joined 2022. #1 · Apr 17, 2022 (Edited by Moderator) Hello. I am on the lookout for an affordable yacht which is seaworthy as well as attractive to look at. The Bristols are increasingly catching my eye, and the 38.8 looks like a reasonably modern, solid and attractive boat. I would appreciate any insights about how she sails ... Bristol 38.8 Fresh Water Cooling System 2. Bristol 38.8 Davis Creek. Dec 5, 2021. #1. I've just purchased a 1984 Bristol 38.8, and now I have some chores to do. She has the original Universal 5444 engine, and and an added Rariton electric water heater. I want to drain, flush and replace the internal coolant. While I've done this on other boats, this one is less straightforward. Bristol boats for sale Bristol boats for sale on YachtWorld are available for an assortment of prices from $9,226 on the relatively more affordable end, with costs up to $223,622 for the more sophisticated, luxurious yachts. What Bristol model is the best? Some of the most widely-known Bristol models currently listed include: 40, 35.5, 45.5 Center Cockpit, 38.8 and 31.1. What boat would you NOT take out bluewater cruising? BRISTOL 38.8 C&C LANDFALL 39 SOUTHERN CROSS 39 CORBIN 39 BAYFIELD 40 COLUMBIA 40 CAL 40 VALIANT 40 TAYANA 42 PASSPORT 40 PEARSON P40 WHITBY 42 TARTAN 42 Thank you for your help. If you can comment on what boat you would NOT take bluewater cruising, and why, we'll update this table for future users. Cheers Philippe & Erin Bristol 35.5 Offshore and Liveaboard? The Bristol is a solid hull vs our cored hull, advantages & disadvantages of both. Build of the 35.5 is stellar, fit and finish is excellent. My Aunt & Uncle had a 35.5 CB. I sailed with them many a summer on the Chesapeake as a teenager. It was a bit tender IIRCC but once it found the groove it was comfortable. catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht