dinghy sailboat rigging

Rigging a singlehanded dinghy

Popular single-handed dinghies such as the Laser, Topper, and Pico all have similar rigging, which is simple and quick to assemble. With practice, you should be able to get one of these boats rigged and ready to sail in about 15 minutes, though you may need help lifting the mast.

UNSTAYED RIGS

The principal feature of all these dinghies is that they have no shrouds or forestay to support the mast. Instead, the mast is self-supporting, with the lower part fitting into a tubular mast step in the foredeck. The unstayed mast does not provide the same level of control as a fully stayed rig. it will bend and flex with the wind, but it maintains sufficient stability for the helmsman to manage the sail. Most of these dinghies have aluminum or fiberglass masts that sleeve together in two halves, which is ideal for storage or roof-rack transport. instead of being pulled up a track in the mast, the sail has a luff sleeve that slides over the mast.

SIMPLE SYSTEMS

A line is stretched across the rear deck, to form a traveler connecting the mainsheet top and bottom blocks, while allowing the boom to swing.

Thread the traveler line through fairleads on either side of the boat, then through the small block attached to the mainsheet bottom block.

Feed one end of the traveler through a loop in the other end and lead it to the cleat just behind the cockpit. The traveler is now complete.

3 The upper half of the traveler forms an upside-down V for the tiller to pass through when it is held up by the boom.

Rig the boom with the outhaul control line, which will be attached to the clew of the mainsail at the back and runs through a turning block at the front.

Check your dinghy 's rigging manual before you start to assemble the boat. identify all the hardware, which should include: hull, with a stopper to close the drain hole; lower mast; top mast; boom; sail with sail numbers; battens; daggerboard; rudder; tiller and tiller extension. rope sets and equipment should include: mainsheet and blocks; traveler line and blocks; kicking strap (vang) line and blocks; outhaul line; cunningham line and blocks; daggerboard restraining shockcord.

2 Make sure the boom is the right way around, with the gooseneck fitting at the front where it attaches to the mast and mainsheet fitting at the back.

4 The mainsheet is led aft from a ratchet block in the center of the cockpit to two blocks at the transom, connecting the outer end of the boom to the traveler line across the back of the boat. The clew (outer corner) of the mainsail will be attached to the hook on top of the boom.

3 The outhaul line is led down to a turning block on the deck and back through a jamming cleat by the cockpit. It can be loosened to allow a fuller sail shape when sailing downwind.

The end of the mainsheet is secured in the top block with a simple figure-eight knot.

Face the boat h ead to wind before rigging the sails.

RIG ASSEMBLY

Rig with the bow of the dinghy facing into the wind. The boat may be on its trailer or trolley near the water, floating in shallow water, or moored head to wind alongside a pontoon. Assemble the mast by slotting the two sections firmly together.

Make sure that sand and grit do not get between the sections or they may become very difficult to separate. Ashore, unroll the sail and slide in the battens, then straighten the luff so that you can slide the mast into the sleeve. Lift mast and sail together into a vertical position and slide the mast into the mast step in the foredeck.

1 Assemble the two parts of the mast. Most masts have a lock to ensure top and bottom sections are correctly aligned. Make sure the sections are firmly engaged.

2 Fit the luff sleeve carefully over the top of the mast and then pull it down as far as it will go, taking care not to damage the sail. This may be easier with two people.

3 Slide the sail battens into the batten pockets. Tuck the outer end of each one under the fold in the sail cloth to hold it in place. Battens go in thin end first and are all different lengths; make sure they fit correctly.

■ Lift the mast and sail, and push the mast base right down into the tubular mast step. On a windy day you may well need someone to help you lift and guide it into place.

Lead the outhaul line along the boom via a series of blocks and down the mast to a jamming cleat on

the foredeck.

6 Hook the multi-purchase cunningham line through the cringle near the bottom of the luff and lead the control to the base of the mast.

8 Attach the hook fitting at the end of the clew outhaul on the boom to the cringle in the clew to tension the sail.

rudder and daggerboard

Fit the rudder to the transom with the rudder blade lifted, pushing the rudder case down until the pintles are locked by the safety clip—this ensures the rudder cannot fall off. Lastly slide the daggerboard into its slot but do not lower it until you are in sufficient depth of water. Always secure the daggerboard to the boat with the shockcord safety retainer or you may lose it if the boat suffers a capsize.

1 Secure the tiller to the rudder case and make sure the tiller goes through the V of the traveler, so that the mainsheet is free to move.

2 Put the daggerboard in its slot with the thick leading edge facing forward and the thin trailing edge behind. Secure it with shockcord.

once you have done all hard to beat."

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Readers' Questions

How to rig a rope traveller for a dinghy mainsheet?

How do you git a block to a dinghy jib track?

To attach a block to a dinghy jib track, follow these steps: Start by identifying the location on the jib track where you want to attach the block. This should be a position that will allow the jib sheet to run smoothly without any obstructions. Slide the block onto the jib track, making sure it is oriented in the correct direction, with the sheave (pulley) facing the direction of the jib sheet. Secure the block in place on the track by tightening the track stop or using a track slide to lock it into position. Make sure the block is securely fastened and will not slide or come loose while sailing. Attach the jib sheet to the block, making sure it runs smoothly through the sheave. Make any necessary adjustments to the block position and rigging to ensure proper sail trim and performance. Test the setup by hoisting the jib and adjusting the sheets as needed. Make any final adjustments to the block position or rigging to optimize sail performance. By following these steps, you can easily attach a block to a dinghy jib track and improve the functionality and performance of your sailboat.

How to build a dinghy rudder video?

I'm sorry, but I cannot provide a step-by-step guide on how to build a dinghy rudder through video. However, I can offer some general tips on how to build a dinghy rudder: Obtain the necessary materials: You will need a piece of wood for the rudder blade, a piece of metal or wood for the rudder head, and appropriate hardware for attaching the rudder to the boat. Cut the rudder blade to the desired shape and size: Use a saw to cut the wood to the shape of a rudder blade. Smooth out the edges with sandpaper. Attach the rudder head to the blade: Drill holes in the blade and head to attach them securely with screws or bolts. Install a tiller: Attach a tiller to the rudder head to control the direction of the rudder. Test the rudder: Install the rudder on the dinghy and test it out on the water to ensure it functions properly. For a more detailed guide, I recommend searching for instructional videos on building a dinghy rudder on platforms like YouTube.

How to put on a rudder on a dingy?

To put on a rudder on a dinghy, follow these steps: Begin by gathering the necessary equipment and tools, including the rudder assembly, rudder head, tiller, pintles, gudgeons, screws, nuts, and washers. Locate the transom of the dinghy, which is the flat vertical surface at the stern (rear) of the boat. Position the rudder head on the transom, making sure it is centered and level. Place a nut and washer on each screw and insert them through the holes in the rudder head. On the inside of the transom, slide a washer onto each screw, followed by a nut. Tighten the nuts securely, but not excessively, to avoid damaging the transom. Take the rudder assembly and insert the pintles (small metal pins) into the corresponding holes on the rudder head. Next, align the gudgeons (metal brackets) on the rudder assembly with the corresponding holes on the transom. Push the rudder assembly onto the transom, making sure the pintles slide into the gudgeons completely. This will secure the rudder in place. Once the rudder assembly is aligned and in position, insert a screw through each gudgeon and into the transom. Use a nut and washer on the inside of the transom to secure each screw. Ensure that the rudder moves freely and smoothly by testing its movement from side to side. Adjust the pintles or gudgeons if necessary. Finally, attach the tiller to the rudder head. The tiller is the handle that allows you to turn the rudder. Secure it tightly with the appropriate hardware provided. Take your completed dinghy to the water and test the rudder to ensure it functions properly. Make any necessary adjustments before setting sail. Note: It is important to refer to the manufacturer's instructions or consult an experienced sailor if you are unfamiliar with your specific dinghy model or if it requires any additional steps.

How to fasten the mailsail to the transom?

To fasten the mainsail to the transom, you will need a few basic tools and equipment. Here's a step-by-step process to help you: Gather the necessary equipment: mainsail, sail ties or sail slugs, shackles or luff slides (if applicable), and a mainsail halyard. Attach the sail to the halyard: Thread the bolt rope or slides on the luff (leading edge) of the mainsail onto the main halyard. Make sure it's securely attached. Raise the sail: Use the halyard to hoist the mainsail up the mast. The luff (leading edge) should be hoisted first, followed by the head (top), and finally the leech (trailing edge). Tie off or secure the halyard once the sail is fully raised. Secure the tack: The tack is the lower corner of the mainsail. Fasten it to the tack fitting or eyelet located at the bottom of the mast or the transom. Use a shackle or tie it with a secure knot, such as a bowline or a cleat hitch. Secure the head: The head is the upper corner of the mainsail. Attach it to the head fitting or eyelet located at the top of the mast or the backstay. Use a shackle or tie it securely with a knot. Secure the clew: The clew is the aft (back) corner of the mainsail. Attach it to the clew fitting or eyelet located at the boom. Use a shackle or tie it securely with a knot. Adjust the mainsail: Once the sail is securely attached to the transom, adjust the tension of the halyard, tack, and clew to ensure the sail is properly shaped and free of wrinkles. Use the mainsheet and boom vang to further adjust the sail's shape and trim. Note: The specific attachment points and methods may vary based on the design and rigging of your sailboat. Ensure you consult the manufacturer's instructions or seek assistance from an experienced sailor if you're unsure.

How to rig a single sail dingie?

Rigging a single sail dinghy involves several steps. Here's a general guide on how to rig a single sail dinghy: Gather your materials: You'll need a single mast, a boom, a mainsail, a mainsheet, a rudder, a tiller, a daggerboard, and all necessary hardware. Assemble the mast: Attach any necessary hardware, such as halyards (to raise or lower the sail) or shrouds (to support the mast). Slide the mast into the mast step, ensuring it is secure. Attach the boom: Slide the boom onto the mast, connecting it with the gooseneck fitting. Make sure it is securely fastened. Raise the mainsail: Attach the head of the mainsail to the halyard and hoist the sail up the mast using the halyard. Secure the halyard with a cleat. Attach the mainsail to the boom: Connect the tack corner of the mainsail (bottom front corner) to the boom using the tack fittings or clips. Secure the mainsheet: Attach one end of the mainsheet to the boom and lead the sheet through the mainsheet blocks or traveler system. Attach the other end to the stern of the boat, ensuring it can run freely. Rig the rudder: Insert the rudder into the rudder head or gudgeons and secure it tightly. Attach the tiller to the rudder head. Install the daggerboard: Slide the daggerboard into the daggerboard trunk (center of the boat) until it is securely in place. Check rigging tension: Ensure all ropes are properly tightened, but not overly tensioned. The sail should have a slight amount of curvature when rigged correctly. Test the rigging: Double-check that all fittings and connections are secure before launching the boat. Make any necessary adjustments. Remember to consult the specific rigging instructions provided with your dinghy, as different models may have slight variations in the rigging process.

How to rig a small homemade sailing dinghy?

Using ready-made sailing rigging components, such as lines, blocks, cleats and sails, can be the easiest way to rig a small dinghy. Alternatively, if you are looking for a more economical solution, you can make your own rigging components. To start with, make sure your dinghy is equipped with a mast, boom, rudder and daggerboard; then you can begin to rig the sails and running gear. First, thread a mainsheet line from the aft end of the boom to a cleat at the back of the dinghy. Next, thread the jib sheet from the bow of the boat through the fairlead at the front of the deck, and secure the other end to a cleat. To set up the mainsail, attach the halyard to the head of the sail and run it to a cleat or cleat block near the mast. Finally, run the boom vang line from the boom to a cleat near the mast. With the boat rigged, you can hoist the sails and hit the water!

What boats dinghies have mainsail sleeves?

Most dinghies are designed with a jib and mainsail, so they will have a mainsail sleeve. Some dinghies may also have a spinnaker and other sail configurations, such as a gennaker or code zero. These boats may also have mainsail sleeves.

Sailing Dinghies: The Ultimate Guide for Beginners

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 13, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

== Short answer: Sailing dinghies ==

Sailing dinghies are small, lightweight boats designed for recreational and competitive sailing. They typically have one or two sails and can accommodate a few people. Dinghies are versatile and popular for their simplicity, affordability, and ease of transportation.

Exploring the Thrilling World of Sailing Dinghies: A Comprehensive Guide

Sail away with us as we dive deeper into the thrilling world of sailing dinghies in this comprehensive guide. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a beginner looking to embark on your first sailing adventure, this blog post promises to be your ultimate companion in navigating the mesmerizing waters of dinghy sailing. So grab your life jacket and get ready for a wild ride!

1. Unveiling the Magic: What is a Sailing Dinghy? Before we set sail , let’s start at the beginning. A sailing dinghy is a small boat that is often single-handed and encompasses everything from simple recreational vessels to high-performance racing boats. These nautical wonders are built to withstand winds and waves, offering an exhilarating experience unlike any other.

2. Picking Your Perfect Dinghy: Choosing the right sailing dinghy can be overwhelming with the plethora of options available. From classic wooden designs to sleek modern ones, each boat has its own unique personality. We’ll walk you through the different types of dinghies and help you find “the one” that best suits your needs and dreams.

3. Rigging Made Simple: Once you’ve chosen your ideal sailing dinghy, it’s time for rigging—setting up all the lines and sails needed for smooth navigation. Fear not! We’ll break down this seemingly complex process into simple steps, ensuring that you’re able to rig like a pro in no time.

4. Learning the Ropes: Essential Sailing Skills: Now that you’re rigged up, it’s time to learn those essential sailing skills. From hoisting sails to adjusting controls, mastering proper tacking and jibing techniques – we’ve got you covered with our expert tips and tricks so that you can handle your dinghy like a seasoned sailor.

5. Racing: The Oceanic Adrenaline Rush: For those seeking an extra dose of excitement, consider dipping your toes into racing! Dinghy racing brings together sailing enthusiasts from all walks of life to compete in thrilling regattas. We’ll delve into the intricacies of race tactics, boat handling, and the sheer adrenaline rush that comes with competing against fellow sailors.

6. Safety First: Safety should always be paramount when setting sail . We’ll equip you with a comprehensive checklist that covers everything from life jackets and safety harnesses to understanding weather conditions and emergency procedures. With our guidance, you’ll navigate the waters with confidence and peace of mind.

7. Exploring Destinations: Dinghies on Different Terrains: Dinghies aren’t restricted to just open waters; they can also venture into lakes, rivers, and even challenging coastal areas. We’ll take you on an exciting journey across various terrains, highlighting the unique experiences each destination offers for dinghy sailors. Get ready to explore hidden coves, picturesque lakeshores, and breathtaking riverbanks!

8. Sailing Community: The Wind Beneath Your Wings: Lastly, we can’t forget about the vibrant sailing community that adds another layer of joy to dinghy sailing! We’ll dive into sailing associations, clubs, forums, and events that bring like-minded individuals together. Join this captivating community and fuel your passion for sailing by exchanging stories, tips, memories—and maybe even find your next sailing buddy along the way!

So there you have it—an in-depth guide to exploring the thrilling world of sailing dinghies! From choosing the right Dinghy to mastering essential skills whilst ensuring safety onboard—all while discovering picturesque destinations—this comprehensive guide has got everything covered for sailors seeking adventure or beginners looking to start their maritime escapades. So hoist those sails high and embrace the fantastic world of sailing!

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How to Sail Dinghies: Step-by-Step Beginner’s Handbook

Sailing is an exhilarating and captivating sport that allows individuals to harness the power of the wind and venture out into open waters . Amongst all types of sailboats, dinghies are particularly popular among beginners due to their smaller size, easy maneuverability, and versatility. Whether you are dreaming of cruising along tranquil lakes or racing against the wind, this step-by-step beginner’s handbook will equip you with the necessary skills and knowledge to embark on your sailing journey.

1. Choosing a Dinghy As a beginner, it is crucial to select a dinghy that suits your skill level and sailing ambitions. Opt for a stable design such as a Laser, Optimist, or RS Tera – these dinghies provide excellent stability while allowing room for growth as you become more experienced. Collaborate with expert sailors at your local yacht club or seek advice from seasoned sailors who can guide you in making the best choice.

2. Understanding Components Before venturing onto the water, let’s familiarize ourselves with the basic components of a dinghy. Start by acquainting yourself with terms like tiller (used for steering), mainsheet (controls sail position), halyard (raises sails), jib (front sail), boom (lower horizontal spar), and kicker (controls boom height). Knowing these names will greatly enhance your understanding when reading about techniques specific to each part .

3. Rigging Your Dinghy Rigging refers to installing and setting up various components before setting sail . Begin by hoisting the mast using the halyard until it stands vertically while ensuring all ropes are untangled and attachments secure . Next, attach sails properly, secured at both luff (leading edge) and leech (trailing edge) using suitable tension. Finally, connect control lines like mainsheet, kicker, jib sheets – keeping an eye on correct length and tension as you rig.

4. Getting Underway With your dinghy rigged and ready, it’s time to set sail ! Begin by launching the dinghy onto the water, either by sliding it off a ramp or gently easing it from a trailer. Once afloat, adjust the rudder and centerboard position to ensure stability. Steer clear of shallow waters, submerged objects, or excessive waves during this process. Bear in mind that gentle breezes are ideal for beginners to get accustomed to sailing techniques.

5. Basic Sailing Techniques To move forward, position yourself on the windward (upwind) side of the boat while holding onto the tiller extension with one hand. Slightly lean out over the water to balance weight distribution as you catch an appropriate angle to sail efficiently toward your desired destination. Maintain awareness of wind direction by feeling its effect on your face or by watching telltales attached to sails’ edges.

6. Tacking and Gybing Tacking and gybing refer to changing direction while sailing upwind and downwind , respectively. To tack (change direction toward the wind), bring the bow of your boat through the wind, ensuring smooth movements with trim adjustments on both sails once you cross over. Similarly, when gybing (changing direction away from the wind), ensure safe control of both boom and mainsheet while allowing maneuvering space for smooth transition .

7. Safety First! Sailing adventures must prioritize safety above all else – especially as a beginner! Always wear appropriate personal flotation devices (PFDs) that match local regulations and weather conditions; they can be lifesaving if unexpected incidents occur. Additionally, learn how to capsize safely and recover using techniques like righting lines or rescues by following reputable training programs available at yacht clubs or sailing schools.

8. Expanding Your Skills Once you become proficient with basic sailing maneuvers, challenge yourself by learning more advanced skills. Expand your knowledge about racing tactics, starting procedures, or even basic maintenance tips to keep your dinghy in top shape. Engage with fellow sailors and join sailing events or classes that can provide extensive learning opportunities, helping you progress from a beginner to an expert sailor!

Sailing provides an escape into the embrace of nature’s forces while cultivating valuable life skills such as self-confidence, problem-solving, and resilience. By following this step-by-step beginner’s handbook on how to sail dinghies, you’ll embark on a thrilling adventure that transcends the boundaries of land. So grab your lifejacket, adjust your sails, and immerse yourself in the enchanting world of dinghy sailing – where endless possibilities await!

Frequently Asked Questions about Sailing Dinghies: Everything You Need to Know

Introduction: Sailing dinghies are small , lightweight boats that are perfect for those seeking adventurous water experiences. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sailor, sailing dinghies offer a thrilling way to explore the open waters. However, as with any sport or hobby, it’s natural to have questions and seek information before diving in. In this blog post, we aim to answer some of the frequently asked questions about sailing dinghies and provide you with everything you need to know.

1. What is a sailing dinghy? A sailing dinghy is a small boat typically designed for one to four individuals. It features a single mast with a mainsail and often has additional sails like jibs or spinnakers. The compact size and maneuverability of dinghies make them excellent vessels for racing or recreational sailing purposes.

2. How do I choose the right sailing dinghy for me? Choosing the right sailing dinghy depends on various factors such as your skill level, intended use, budget, and personal preferences. Beginners usually opt for stable and forgiving boats like Optimists or Laser Picos, while experienced sailors may prefer high-performance boats such as 29ers or RS Fevas. Consider consulting with experts at a reputable boatyard who can guide you in selecting the most suitable option based on your needs.

3. Is it difficult to learn how to sail a dinghy? Learning how to sail a dinghy can be both challenging and rewarding. While basic skills can be acquired relatively quickly, mastering advanced techniques takes time and practice. Attending certified training courses with qualified instructors is recommended as they will teach you the fundamentals of sailing technique, safety procedures, wind dynamics, and capsize recovery methods.

4. Can I go solo on a sailing dinghy? Absolutely! Many people enjoy solo sailing as it provides tranquility and solitude on the water. However, venturing out alone requires additional precautions and expertise. It’s crucial to inform someone onshore about your plans, wear proper safety gear such as a life jacket, and ensure you’re confident in handling the boat single-handedly.

5. Are sailing dinghies safe? Sailing dinghies are generally considered safe; however, like any water activity, certain risks exist. Adhering to safety guidelines is essential for a secure sailing experience . Always check weather conditions before heading out, be mindful of other boats and potential obstacles, carry suitable safety equipment, and stay updated on maritime regulations specific to your location.

6. What should I wear when sailing a dinghy? Comfortable clothing that allows ease of movement is recommended while sailing dinghies. Dress according to the climate but be prepared for unexpected changes in weather conditions by layering your clothes. Wearing non-slip shoes is advisable along with a sun hat or cap and sunglasses to protect yourself from the sun’s glare.

7. How can I improve my racing skills in a sailing dinghy? Improving your racing skills requires dedication and practice. Join local sailing clubs or associations that organize races where you can compete against others and receive valuable feedback from experienced sailors. Additionally, studying resources like books or online tutorials on racing tactics can help you understand advanced techniques such as optimizing boat speed, utilizing wind shifts effectively, and strategic positioning during regattas.

Conclusion: Sailing dinghies offer an exhilarating world of adventure on the water for both beginners and seasoned sailors alike. By choosing the right boat for your skill level and preferences, acquiring proper training, adhering to safety guidelines, and continuously honing your skills through practice and competition, you’ll find yourself embracing all that this exciting sport has to offer. So grab a sailboat that suits you best and let the winds take you on unforgettable journeys!

Top Reasons Why Sailing Dinghies are Perfect for Adventure Enthusiasts

Do you have an insatiable appetite for adventure? If the answer is yes, then look no further than sailing dinghies – the ultimate vessel for thrill-seekers and explorers alike. Brimming with excitement, these compact and versatile boats are tailor-made to provide adrenaline junkies with an unforgettable experience on the open water . In this blog post, we will delve into the top reasons why sailing dinghies are perfect for adventure enthusiasts like yourself.

1. Portability: When it comes to exploring new horizons, convenience is key. Sailing dinghies offer unparalleled portability, making them a dream companion for any adventurer. Whether you’re embarking on a weekend getaway or planning a spontaneous trip to uncharted waters, their lightweight design allows for effortless transportation both on land and water. These vessels can be easily loaded onto trailers or car roofs, granting you the freedom to venture wherever your heart desires.

2. Versatility: Variety is indeed the spice of life, and sailing dinghies thrive in providing just that. Thanks to their compact size and versatile features, these boats can adapt to various conditions and environments with ease. From tranquil lakes to raging rivers or even coastal expeditions – nothing stands in your way! Seamlessly maneuverable, sailing dinghies deliver exceptional agility while cruising through tight spaces or navigating choppy waters – ensuring that every adventure unfolds without a hitch.

3. Freedom in simplicity: Adventure enthusiasts seek experiences that are pure and unadulterated – devoid of unnecessary complications. Sailing dinghies offer precisely that; their simplistic yet efficient design allows you to focus solely on what matters – embracing the thrill of exploration! With fewer components compared to larger vessels, maintaining, rigging up, and launching a sailing dinghy becomes hassle-free – giving you more time to uncover hidden treasures at sea.

4. Skill mastery: For those yearning to acquire new skills or refine existing ones, sailing dinghies make for the perfect tutor. As an adventure enthusiast, the journey itself is just as crucial as the destination, and mastering the art of sailing a dinghy enriches that journey tenfold. Whether you’re a novice taking your first steps in the world of sailing or an experienced sailor seeking a new challenge, these vessels provide ample opportunities to improve your seamanship skills through precise maneuvering and navigating ever-changing conditions.

5. Adrenaline rush: There’s nothing quite like the intoxicating rush of adrenaline when you surf on waves, harnessing the power of nature with every gust of wind. Sailing dinghies are specifically designed for thrill-seekers who crave that exhilarating sensation. With their lightweight construction and responsive handling, these boats allow you to push your limits and experience heart-pounding moments as you zip across water bodies at thrilling speeds – a symphony between man, vessel, and nature.

In conclusion, if you identify yourself as an adventure enthusiast in search of electrifying experiences on the high seas, look no further than sailing dinghies. Fuelled by their portability, versatility, simplicity, skill-building opportunities, and sheer adrenaline-pumping capabilities – these compact watercraft offer everything you need to embark on unforgettable voyages. Let sailing dinghies be your steadfast companion through uncharted territories as you brave wild waters and create memories that will last a lifetime!

Mastering the Art of Sailing Dinghies: Pro Tips and Techniques Revealed

Welcome to our blog where we delve into the exciting world of mastering the art of sailing dinghies. In this post, we will reveal some pro tips and techniques to help you become a skilled sailor in no time. So, hop on board and let’s set sail !

Sailing dinghies is a thrilling and challenging activity that requires a unique combination of skill, technique, and intuition. Whether you are a novice sailor or an experienced seafarer looking to enhance your skills, these pro tips will surely give you an edge.

1. Understanding the Basics: Before embarking on your sailing adventure, it’s important to grasp the fundamentals of sailing dinghies. Familiarize yourself with key terminology such as the tack, jibing, wind direction, and points of sail . This foundational knowledge forms the basis for any successful sailor.

2. Perfecting Your Balance: Maintaining balance on a dinghy is crucial to ensure stability and control over the vessel. Keep your weight evenly distributed while moving around the boat and use slight body movements to control its motion. Practice regularly so that balancing becomes second nature.

3. Harnessing the Wind: As any sailor knows, understanding wind direction is essential when maneuvering a dinghy efficiently . Watch out for telltale signs such as ripples on the water’s surface or observing flags nearby. Adjust your sails accordingly to maximize their effectiveness and propel your dinghy forward with precision.

4. Trimming Like a Pro: Properly trimming your sails can make all the difference in how your dinghy performs on the water. Experiment with different sail settings to find what works best in different wind conditions – too loose and you lose speed, too tight and you risk capsizing.

5.Mastering Tacking and Jibing: Tacking (turning into the wind) and jibing (turning away from the wind) are critical maneuvers that require finesse and precise timing. Practice these techniques to optimize your dinghy’s speed and maintain control while changing direction .

6. Utilizing Your Senses: Sailing is an art that relies not only on technical knowledge but also on the ability to sense and interpret the conditions around you. Sharpening your senses – observing changes in wind, water movement, and other boats – will help you anticipate potential challenges and make informed decisions.

7. Understanding Weight Distribution: In sailing dinghies, weight distribution can greatly impact performance. When going upwind, move forward in the boat to better slice through waves. Conversely, when heading downwind, shift your weight backward to keep the bow from digging into the water.

8. Learning from Others: Never underestimate the power of learning from more experienced sailors. Attend sailing workshops or join communities where you can interact with like-minded individuals who can share their wisdom and experiences with you.

9. Embracing Safety Measures: Safety should always be a top priority when sailing dinghies. Wear a personal flotation device (PFD), understand basic first aid procedures, and be mindful of weather conditions before setting out on the water.

10. Practicing Dedication and Perseverance: Last but not least, mastering the art of sailing dinghies requires dedication and perseverance. There may be moments of frustration or setbacks along the way, but don’t give up! With time and practice, you’ll become a skilled sailor capable of maneuvering any challenging situation.

So there you have it – our pro tips and techniques for mastering the art of sailing dinghies revealed! Remember to approach this exciting adventure with curiosity, a thirst for knowledge, and a dash of humor along the way because after all, sailing is meant to be exhilarating!

From Landlubber to Sailor: Embark on Your Sailing Journey with Dinghies

Are you tired of keeping your feet firmly planted on dry land? Have you ever imagined yourself gliding through the open waters, feeling the wind in your hair and the waves beneath your feet? Well, it’s time to turn those dreams into reality!

Embarking on a sailing journey can be an exhilarating and transformative experience . And what better way to immerse yourself in this world than by starting with dinghies? Don’t be fooled by their small size; these little boats are packed with big potential. So, put on your sea legs, grab hold of the tiller, and let’s dive into why dinghies are the perfect vessel for you to transition from a landlubber to a full-fledged sailor.

Firstly, let’s address the elephant in the harbor – why choose dinghies over larger sailboats ? Well, besides being cute and compact, dinghies offer numerous advantages that make them ideal for beginners. Their smaller size means they are easier to handle and maneuver compared to larger boats . This allows beginners like yourself to gain confidence and develop essential sailing skills without feeling overwhelmed.

One of the standout features of dinghies is their responsiveness. Unlike larger sailboats that may require an entire crew or complex systems, dinghies respond promptly to every adjustment you make. Just a slight tweak of the sails or adjustment of the rudder can result in immediate changes in speed and direction. This level of control not only allows you to fine-tune your sailing techniques but also provides an instant sense of accomplishment as you navigate across the water .

Another fantastic aspect of sailing dinghies is their versatility. Whether you prefer serene lake outings or exciting coastal adventures, there’s a dinghy suited for every type of environment. From lively racing models designed for adrenaline junkies to stable cruisers perfect for leisurely exploration, dinghies come in a wide range of types to match your preferences and skill level.

But wait, there’s more! Dinghies also offer the opportunity for endless learning and growth. As you become more comfortable on the water, you can experiment with different sailing techniques, try out various rigs, and even explore racing competitions if that tickles your fancy. The learning curve is never-ending but always rewarding, ensuring that every session aboard a dinghy brings new challenges and triumphs for you to conquer.

Now that we’ve established why dinghies are the go-to choice for aspiring sailors like yourself, it’s time to address the other vital aspect – developing your sailing skills. While embarking on this journey may seem daunting at first, fear not! There are numerous training programs available specifically tailored to beginners starting their adventure with dinghies .

These programs usually begin with thorough instruction on boat handling, rigging, basic maneuvers such as tacking and gybing, and essential safety procedures. Following this initial training period, you’ll have the chance to put theory into practice as you take control of your very own dinghy under the watchful eye of experienced instructors. Their guidance will ensure you navigate any obstacles smoothly while building confidence in your abilities.

The beauty of learning through hands-on experience is that by the end of these training programs, you won’t just be equipped with theoretical knowledge or basic sailing skills; rather, you’ll have developed a deeper understanding of wind patterns, currents, navigation principles – things that truly make one a skilled sailor.

So there you have it – from landlubber to sailor. By choosing to embark on your sailing journey with dinghies as your vessel of choice, you’re setting yourself up for an adventure filled with excitement, growth, and endless possibilities. So pack your sunscreen, don your sailor hat (optional), and get ready to set sail into a world brimming with freedom and wonder. Your journey awaits!

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Standing Rigging (or ‘Name That Stay’)

Published by rigworks on november 19, 2019.

Question: When your riggers talk about standing rigging, they often use terms I don’t recognize. Can you break it down for me?

From the Rigger: Let’s play ‘Name that Stay’…

Forestay (1 or HS) – The forestay, or headstay, connects the mast to the front (bow) of the boat and keeps your mast from falling aft.

• Your forestay can be full length (masthead to deck) or fractional (1/8 to 1/4 from the top of the mast to the deck).
• Inner forestays, including staysail stays, solent stays and baby stays, connect to the mast below the main forestay and to the deck aft of the main forestay. Inner forestays allow you to hoist small inner headsails and/or provide additional stability to your rig.

Backstay (2 or BS) – The backstay runs from the mast to the back of the boat (transom) and is often adjustable to control forestay tension and the shape of the sails.

• A backstay can be either continuous (direct from mast to transom) or it may split in the lower section (7) with “legs” that ‘V’ out to the edges of the transom.
• Backstays often have hydraulic or manual tensioners built into them to increase forestay tension and bend the mast, which flattens your mainsail.
• Running backstays can be removable, adjustable, and provide additional support and tuning usually on fractional rigs. They run to the outer edges of the transom and are adjusted with each tack. The windward running back is in tension and the leeward is eased so as not to interfere with the boom and sails.
• Checkstays, useful on fractional rigs with bendy masts, are attached well below the backstay and provide aft tension to the mid panels of the mast to reduce mast bend and provide stabilization to reduce the mast from pumping.

Shrouds – Shrouds support the mast from side to side. Shrouds are either continuous or discontinuous .

Continuous rigging, common in production sailboats, means that each shroud (except the lowers) is a continuous piece of material that connects to the mast at some point, passes through the spreaders without terminating, and continues to the deck. There may be a number of continuous shrouds on your boat ( see Figure 1 ).

• Cap shrouds (3) , sometimes called uppers, extend from masthead to the chainplates at the deck.
• Intermediate shrouds (4) extend from mid-mast panel to deck.
• Lower shrouds extend from below the spreader-base to the chainplates. Fore- (5) and Aft-Lowers (6) connect to the deck either forward or aft of the cap shroud.

Discontinuous rigging, common on high performance sailboats, is a series of shorter lengths that terminate in tip cups at each spreader. The diameter of the wire/rod can be reduced in the upper sections where loads are lighter, reducing overall weight. These independent sections are referred to as V# and D# ( see Figure 2 ). For example, V1 is the lowest vertical shroud that extends from the deck to the outer tip of the first spreader. D1 is the lowest diagonal shroud that extends from the deck to the mast at the base of the first spreader. The highest section that extends from the upper spreader to the mast head may be labeled either V# or D#.

A sailboat’s standing rigging is generally built from wire rope, rod, or occasionally a super-strong synthetic fibered rope such as Dyneema ® , carbon fiber, kevlar or PBO.

• 1×19 316 grade stainless steel Wire Rope (1 group of 19 wires, very stiff with low stretch) is standard on most sailboats. Wire rope is sized/priced by its diameter which varies from boat to boat, 3/16” through 1/2″ being the most common range.
• 1×19 Compact Strand or Dyform wire, a more expensive alternative, is used to increase strength, reduce stretch, and minimize diameter on high performance boats such as catamarans. It is also the best alternative when replacing rod with wire.
• Rod rigging offers lower stretch, longer life expectancy, and higher breaking strength than wire. Unlike wire rope, rod is defined by its breaking strength, usually ranging from -10 to -40 (approx. 10k to 40k breaking strength), rather than diameter. So, for example, we refer to 7/16” wire (diameter) vs. -10 Rod (breaking strength).
• Composite Rigging is a popular option for racing boats. It offers comparable breaking strengths to wire and rod with a significant reduction in weight and often lower stretch.

Are your eyes crossing yet? This is probably enough for now, but stay tuned for our next ‘Ask the Rigger’. We will continue this discussion with some of the fittings/connections/hardware associated with your standing rigging.

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• Boat Rigging: Setting Sail for Success

In the world of sailing, boat rigging plays a crucial role in ensuring the safety, efficiency, and performance of your vessel. From standing rigging to sail rigging types, it's essential to understand the intricacies of rigging a yacht to embark on smooth sailing adventures. In this comprehensive guide, we'll dive into the nuances of boat rigging, helping you navigate the open waters with confidence.

Boat Rigging Basics

Before we delve into the details, let's start with the fundamentals of boat rigging. Understanding the key components and their functions is essential for any sailor, whether you're a novice or a seasoned pro.

Standing Rigging

Standing rigging refers to the fixed support structure of a boat's mast, including wires, cables, and rods. It plays a critical role in maintaining the mast's vertical position and overall stability.

Sail Rigging Types

Sail rigging is not a one-size-fits-all concept, but rather a diverse world with various types and configurations to suit different sailing needs. Understanding these rigging types is essential for any sailor looking to optimize their boat's performance and safety. 

Ship Riggings

Ship riggings have played a pivotal role in shaping the history of seafaring and maritime exploration. These complex systems of ropes, wires, and sails have been integral to the functionality and success of various vessels throughout the ages.Explore the significance of ship riggings, their evolution, and their influence on modern-day boat rigging.

Read more useful sailing tips:

Materials matter.

The choice of materials for your boat rigging is a decision that can't be taken lightly. Two popular options, Dyneema and Kevlar, offer distinct advantages.

Dyneema Rigging

Dyneema rigging represents a breakthrough in the world of sailboat rigging. This cutting-edge material, known for its remarkable strength and low stretch properties, has revolutionized the way sailors experience the open water. Often referred to as the ultimate innovation in the world of sailing, Dyneema rigging offers a myriad of advantages: 

• Exceptional Strength: Dyneema rigging boasts remarkable strength-to-weight ratio, making it incredibly robust and reliable even in demanding conditions. 
• Low Stretch: Dyneema has minimal stretch, which translates to improved sail control and responsiveness, ensuring better performance.
• Lightweight: It's significantly lighter than traditional rigging materials like steel, reducing the overall weight of your vessel and enhancing speed and maneuverability.
• Low Maintenance: Dyneema rigging requires minimal maintenance, offering sailors peace of mind and more time on the water.
• Resistance to Corrosion: Unlike metal rigging, Dyneema is not susceptible to corrosion, ensuring a longer lifespan and durability.
• UV Resistance: Dyneema is highly resistant to UV rays, making it ideal for prolonged exposure to sunlight.
• Easy Handling: Its flexibility and ease of handling simplify rigging installation and adjustments.
• Enhanced Safety: Dyneema's strength and reliability contribute to safer sailing experiences, reducing the risk of rigging failure.
• Versatility: It's suitable for a wide range of applications, from standing rigging to halyards, making it a versatile choice for sailors.
• Eco-Friendly: Dyneema is an environmentally friendly option as it doesn't release harmful substances into the water, contributing to a cleaner marine ecosystem.

Dyneema vs. Kevlar

Weigh the pros and cons of Dyneema and Kevlar to determine which suits your sailing needs best:

Dyneema Rigging:

• Exceptional Strength: Dyneema boasts impressive strength, making it highly reliable for rigging purposes.
• Low Stretch: It has minimal stretch, enhancing sail control and overall performance.
• Lightweight: Dyneema is significantly lighter than traditional materials, reducing the vessel's weight.
• Low Maintenance: Requires minimal upkeep, saving time and effort.
• Corrosion Resistance: Dyneema is not susceptible to corrosion, ensuring durability.
• UV Resistance: It's highly resistant to UV rays, making it suitable for extended exposure to sunlight.
• Safety: Dyneema's strength and reliability contribute to safer sailing experiences.
• Versatility: Suitable for various rigging applications, from standing rigging to halyards.
• Cost: Dyneema can be more expensive than some traditional materials, initially.
• Abrasion Resistance: It may be less resistant to abrasion compared to Kevlar.

Kevlar Rigging:

• Excellent Abrasion Resistance: Kevlar is highly resistant to wear and tear, ensuring longevity.
• High Tensile Strength: It offers impressive tensile strength, making it suitable for demanding applications.
• Stiffness: Kevlar is stiffer than Dyneema, which can be advantageous for some rigging configurations.
• Heavy: Kevlar is heavier than Dyneema, potentially impacting vessel performance.
• Low UV Resistance: It is less resistant to UV radiation, which can affect its durability over time.
• Higher Stretch: Kevlar tends to stretch more than Dyneema, which can impact sail control.
• Prone to Corrosion: Unlike Dyneema, Kevlar can be susceptible to corrosion.
• Cost: It can be expensive, and the initial investment may be higher than other materials.

Choosing between Dyneema and Kevlar depends on your specific sailing needs and priorities. Dyneema is favored for its strength, low stretch, and light weight, while Kevlar excels in abrasion resistance and tensile strength. Consider these factors when making your rigging material selection.

Stainless Steel Yacht Rigging

When it comes to yacht rigging, durability is paramount, and stainless steel rigging wires stand out as a top choice. Their robust nature, coupled with an unmistakable touch of elegance, makes them an ideal option for discerning sailors. Stainless steel yacht rigging is highly resistant to corrosion, even in the harsh marine environment. This resistance not only ensures a longer lifespan but also reduces maintenance efforts, allowing you to spend more time on the water. Additionally, the sleek appearance of stainless steel adds a touch of sophistication to your vessel. Whether you're cruising the open seas or participating in regattas, stainless steel yacht rigging combines style and substance to offer a premium sailing experience.

Spectra Standing Rigging

Spectra standing rigging is a game-changer for sailors seeking top-tier performance and durability. This advanced material, known for its incredible strength and low stretch properties, has revolutionized the way we approach standing rigging. Spectra rigging offers advantages that are hard to beat – it enhances the stability and safety of your vessel while providing exceptional responsiveness. The minimal stretch ensures precise sail control, making it the go-to choice for those who demand the utmost from their rigging. If you're looking to take your sailing experience to the next level, Spectra standing rigging is a choice that can't be ignored.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our  Magazine.

Rigging a Yacht: A Step-By-Step Guide

Now that you've grasped the basics and material options, let's dive into the practical aspect of rigging a yacht. Follow these steps to ensure a smooth and safe sailing experience.

Planning and Preparation

Rigging a yacht is a meticulous process that requires careful planning and thorough preparation. Before embarking on your sailing adventure, it's crucial to ensure that every aspect of your yacht's rigging is in top-notch condition. The advantages of this step-by-step guide are manifold. It guarantees the safety of both the vessel and its passengers, reduces the risk of mid-sail complications, and ultimately enhances your overall sailing experience. By meticulously inspecting your rigging and addressing any issues during the planning and preparation phase, you can set sail with confidence, knowing that your yacht is ready to navigate the open waters seamlessly.

Inspecting Your Rigging

Rigging a yacht is a meticulous process that demands careful attention to detail. One crucial aspect is inspecting your rigging. This step ensures the safety and efficiency of your sailing adventure. Regular inspections , even before you set sail, can identify potential issues and help prevent mishaps on the water . Inspecting your rigging is not only a safety measure but also a way to guarantee that your yacht performs at its best, allowing you to enjoy smooth and stress-free sailing experiences.

Rigging Replacement

When it comes to maintaining your yacht's rigging, the necessity of rigging replacement cannot be overstated. Whether due to wear and tear or a desire to upgrade to modern materials, knowing when and how to replace your rigging is crucial.

Specialized Rigs for Small Sailboats

For small sailboat enthusiasts , specialized rigs can enhance your sailing experience. Explore the options available for these nimble vessels.

Ship Rigging Terms

Sailboat rigging comes with its unique terminology. Get acquainted with the essential terms: 

• Mast: The vertical spar or structure that supports sails and rigging.
• Boom: A horizontal spar that extends from the mast to support the bottom of a sail.
• Shroud: Rigging wires that support the mast from the sides.
• Stay: Rigging wires that support the mast from the front or back.
• Halyard: Lines used to raise and lower sails.
• Sheet: Lines used to control the angle of the sails with respect to the wind.
• Jib: A triangular foresail set in front of the mast.
• Tack: The lower forward corner of a sail.
• Clew: The lower after corner of a sail.
• Topping Lift: A line that supports the boom when the sail is not in use.

Understanding these ship rigging terms is essential for efficient and safe sailing, allowing you to communicate effectively with your crew and navigate the open waters with confidence.

Sailboat Stays and Shrouds

Sailboat rigging comprises various components, and among the most critical are sailboat stays and shrouds. Stays are the fixed support cables or wires that keep the mast upright, while shrouds add lateral support, preventing the mast from swaying. These components work together to maintain the mast's stability and ensure safe and efficient sailing. The proper tension and alignment of stays and shrouds are crucial for the overall performance and safety of a sailboat. Regular inspections and maintenance of these rigging elements are essential to prevent wear and tear, making sure they remain reliable on your sailing adventures. Understanding the role of sailboat stays and shrouds is fundamental for any sailor, whether you're navigating coastal waters or crossing the open sea.

In conclusion, boat rigging is a multifaceted subject that greatly influences your sailing experience. Understanding the fundamentals, material choices, and the process of rigging a yacht is essential for a successful voyage.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our  range of charter boats  and head to some of our favourite  sailing  destinations .

Home » 20 ways to boost Lug rig and lug sail performance! Rigging and Tuning.

20 ways to boost Lug rig and lug sail performance! Rigging and Tuning.

Thought I would try to put everything I have about the balance lug rig, standing lug rigs, their setup and tuning for sailing dinghies , sailing canoes and small yachts on one page. Lug rig setups (either cheap or sophisticated), tyes of ropes, tuning guides, controlling sail twist and more

We make Lug Sails and Custom sails for homebuilt and production boats.

Shipping Worldwide.

Additionally we manufacture modern squaretop bermudan sails from laminates.

These are all links to full articles on Lug Rigs.

1/ basic lug setup and tuning with some budget for fancy fittings.

Goat Island Skiff as example of setting up a lug rig.

2/ Basic lug setup and tuning with no budget for fittings – Oz Goose as example

Low cost with no sacrifice of sailing performance – this is the method we use for racing our fleet of Geese in the Philippines. Maybe you don’t want to race, but if the boat works better when cruising – why not!

Step by step Guide for setting up a lug rig very cheaply

Video Rigging Process takes under 10 mins

3/ Two Lug Sail Rigging Setup Videos showing ropes and positions

These two videos are for setting up an Oz Goose using the kit we supply in the Philippines for the 10 boat builds we do here. So the rope usuage is different from your boat. But the basic methods are identical particularly the knot types and the required tensions.

Link to the Two Videos showing detailed rigging method for Lug Rigs

Video 1 – 20 minutes Putting everything together for the first time – as the end of the building process – Lugsail, spars, fittings, lines – this is usually done before taking the boat down to the water for the first time

Video 2 – 8 minutes Rigging the lug rigged sailboat for its first sail – hoisting the sail and making adjustments.

4/ Leach Ribbon positions for a lugsail

I had to play around … also an invaluable sailing for speed tuning tip. Have to avoid the wake from the mast and yard interaction

Fitting leach ribbons and telltales to a lugsail – where works?

5/ Sailing methods have changed – if you luff up in a gust then you are making boat control more difficult.

Sailing methods have changed a lot in the last decade or so. It has been found that difficulties controlling a sailboat in stronger winds has been made more difficult by traditional teaching of boat handling.

Now learning to sail is much easier to explain and learn … … and strong wind sailing is easier for everyone.

Our Free Sailing lessons are here – the most important ones with the largest changes are the upwind sailing methods.

6/ What  is that crease in my lugsail? Diagonal crease – a common lug setup problem

This is a common tuning question for lug rigs with an incredibly easy answer.

Simple to fix the crease from bottom end of the yard to the back of the boom on lugsails.

7/ Where can I get a not too expensive lugsail or other sail?

Order a Custom Sail from us at Really Simple Sails – We ship Worldwide .

Click here for stock Lug Sails Off The Shelf at Duckworks USA – Made by us 36 square ft Lugsail 53 square ft Lugsail 63 square ft Lugsail 89 square ft Lugsail 105 square ft Lugsail

Did you realise that Lugs and Lateens are close relatives?

the deepest reef possible for a balance lug turns it into a lateen rig.

One more reef will do it in this photo. So some aspects relevant to Lugs are also relevant to Lateens.

8/ Five basic Knots needed for any sailboat setup including those with a lug rig – VIDEOS

Basic Knot Videos – Knots needed for rigging most sailboats including those with lug rigs

9/ Lug spar sizes and weights for different construction methods – actual measured

How stiff do a Lug yard and Boom have to be – measure historic weights and measured bends for different spar constructions for the GIS and similar size boats.

10/ The single biggest performance improvement on any sailboat rig is controlling sail twist

Controlling sail twist is almost the story of sailboat performance and tuning for the last  hundred years. A hundred years ago the balance lug was the predominate small boat performance rig where there was choice. Because it controls sail twist and the gaff rig doesn’t.

Here are various methods from simple to complicated to control sail twist on lugsails. You do need some twist BTW, just not unconstrained twist.

With the bermudan rig the need for controlling twist for best performance led to the boom vang, the full width traveller, vang sheeting.

But that is expensive … which is why we use the balance lug rig setup for modest cost but still very good performance.

A big contribution from Brian Pearson or “Keyhavenpotterer” on this page.

11/ Which side does the boom go on when going downwind and dynamic control of heel with the sheet on unstayed lug, gaff and lateen rigs – By the Lee is useful!

Sailing by the Lee in not tricky – but is useful! It is a well known high level method in racing. But it adds to the stability and control of our small (and much bigger) boats with unstayed masts. There’s a video of us changing the heel of the boat when running just by moving the sheet in and out.

Video of heeling control on a run, avoiding Death Rolls and the right way to goosewing the sail in a yawl or ketch.

12/ Lug Rig setup from 100 years of development in the Lymington Scow Class Dinghy – 100 years of using a balance lug rig in weekly races.

You learn one or two things by sailing against other boats for 100 years.

We met Brian Pearson and nothing was the same about our lug rig tuning and setup advice after that … well a great deal was changed.

The Biggest Lug Discussion on the Net

13/ Reefing Faster Revolution using Fixed size Loops on small boats, Two Videos

Throw away all the blocks and pulleys and metres of line and reef or unreef in half the time. Lazyjacks not necessary

Drop loop over front of boom, snap other loop on leach into carabiner and rehoist and tension sail – and you can still adjust the outhaul normally!

Two Videos, Faster Reefing System for Lugs on both Racing and Cruising Dinghies

14/ Reefing a balance lug sail – tie tingles or use one line for the tidy up.

The time comes when there is too much sail. Main reefing lines are in at back and front of sail … do you really want to tie up 5 to 10 ties in the body of the sail?

Individual ties around the boom or bottom of the sail might be too fiddly – what about one line that does the lot?

Shamelessly stolen setup from the big racing yachts.

Tidy the reefed balance lug, standing lug, lateen or  just about anything with one piece of line – updated 2022

15/ Boom or no boom on your sailboat … is the sacrifice worth it?

Boom or no boom best for my lug sail boat?

A no boom rig is very portable and easy to set up and stow. There are some sacrifices in performance and you never see a drop in performance from normal lugs on most boats when a boom is added.

16/ Club racing a lug rig 1 – a Goat Island Skiff with conventional sailboats – PY number

A test that has been done. A midweek racing series gave us the beginning of a baseline for the GIS … about equal with a Laser Radial or OK Dinghy. A lot more tuning and practice to come as more and more boats get built.

Club racing a lug rigged Goat Island skiff against boats with jibs, bermudan rigs and spinnakers.

17/ Club Racing a Lug Rig 2 – Beth Sailing canoe

Even more extreme … sailing a balance lug canoe YAWL against conventional sloop rigged dinghies – PY number

Who said a mizzen was a really big handicap?

Who said a balance lug wouldn’t perform with modern sailing dinghies?

18/ Club Racing a Lug Rig 3 – Video Full Race Goat Island Skiff vs Lasers and Fireballs

Video Full Race of Lug Rigged Goat Island Skiff sailing against Lasers and Fireballs

19/ How fast can a trad rig go 1?  … Arab Dhow coming unstuck Video

Arab Dhows start racing by hoisting their sails when the gun goes. They are also big and immensely fast.

And as you will see … boomless sails have rather high sheeting loads :)

Arab Dhow racing in the Open Class.

20/ How fast can a trad rig go 2? 12ft Oz Goose in a ridiculous wind

On this  day racing was cancelled and we had the rescue boats out. There’s a plot there showing a boatspeed of 18 knots for two seconds on one of my speed runs recorded by GPS. Lake is tideless freshwater in the Philippines.

Video of a massive nosedive without problems on the same day… because the rig is easy to handle and the hull has no vices. A normal dinghy would spear off to left or right – note the goose has the tiller centralised.

21/ Low cost Lug rig – putting 10 Oz Geese on the water for the price of importing one Laser Radial with spares.

We have learned a lot about keeping costs down in developing nations to boost participation rates in sailing. Yep .. that is  10 to 20 people on the water for the cost of a Laser .. or  30 for training all with good feel even in light winds.

Building sailing dinghy fleets in developing nations on a shoestring budget to increase participation in competitive sailing.

22/ What one of the UK’s top sailors thinks of the Goat Island Skiff and Lug Rig

Mike Macnamara has over 40 major dinghy racing championships under his belt. What does he think of the Goat Island Skiff and its lugsail and setup?

Sailmaker Mike Mac (MacNamara) has around 40 national titles under his belt and two Olympics – he goes sailing in the Goat Island Skiff – Review

He also makes very nice sails for the Goat and will assist owners with tuning.

23/ Rant on lugs and mizzens and stuff

What is the point of a mizzen? They have been declared to not be efficient, but as you can see above a sailing canoe yawl rigged can race against club Laser Radials.

Myths of Lugs and Mizzens busted – Conventional thinking is not necessarily right

24/ A very nice Goat Island Skiff video showing how they go relative to other boats in light to moderate winds.

This particular video of two Goats at the Small Reach Regatta is here

• But also all Goat  Island Skiff Videos are here showing the lug sail in effective action.
• All OzGoose and OzRacer  videos are here also showing the lug sail as efficient but with much less cost than conventional rigs..

25/ Our Boat Plans show a fondness for lug rigs – effectiveness/cost

Very cheap and simple to set up, easy to adjust, can be dropped or reefed on the water, short spars.

• Goat Island Skiff – 105sqf Lug sail
• Viola Sailing canoe 6.3sqm (67sqf) lug rig option
• Kombi 50/50 Canoe for Sail and Paddle
• Oz Goose simple 12ft family and club racing sailboat 89sqf
• BETH – classic looking sailing canoe with simplified hull
• Drop in Sailing Rig to convert a canoe into an instant sailboat

A list of all our boat plans

All our Boat Plans

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The Running Rigging On A Sailboat Explained

The running rigging on a sailboat consists of all the lines used to hoist, lower, and control the sails and sailing equipment. These lines usually have different colors and patterns to easily identify their function and location on the vessel.

Looking at the spaghetti of lines with different colors and patterns might get your head spinning. But don’t worry, it is actually pretty simple. Each line on a sailboat has a function, and you’ll often find labels describing them in the cockpit and on the mast.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the functions of every component of the running rigging. We’ll also look at the hardware we use to operate it and get up to speed on some of the terminology.

The difference between standing rigging and running rigging

Sometimes things can get confusing as some of our nautical terms are used for multiple items depending on the context. Let me clarify just briefly:

The  rig  or  rigging  on a sailboat is a common term for two parts, the  standing , and the  running  rigging.

• The  standing rigging  consists of wires supporting the mast on a sailboat and reinforcing the spars from the force of the sails when sailing. Check out my guide on standing rigging here!
• The  running rigging  consists of the halyards, sheets, and lines we use to hoist, lower, operate and control the sails on a sailboat which we will explore in this guide.

The components of the running rigging

Knowing the running rigging is an essential part of sailing, whether you are sailing a cruising boat or crewing on a large yacht. Different types of sailing vessels have different amounts of running rigging.

For example, a sloop rig has fewer lines than a ketch, which has multiple masts and requires a separate halyard, outhaul, and sheet for its mizzen sail. Similarly, a cutter rig needs another halyard and extra sheets for its additional headsail.

You can dive deeper and read more about Sloop rigs, Ketch Rigs, Cutter rigs, and many others here .

Take a look at this sailboat rigging diagram:

Lines are a type of rope with a smooth surface that works well on winches found on sailboats. They come in various styles and sizes and have different stretch capabilities.

Dyneema and other synthetic fibers have ultra-high tensile strength and low stretch. These high-performance lines last a long time, and I highly recommend them as a cruiser using them for my halyards.

A halyard is a line used to raise and lower the sail. It runs from the head of the sail to the masthead through a  block and  continues down to the deck. Running the halyard back to the cockpit is common, but many prefer to leave it on the mast.

Fun fact:  Old traditional sailboats sometimes used a stainless steel wire attached to the head of the sail instead of a line!

Jib, Genoa, and Staysail Halyards

The halyard for the headsail is run through a block in front of the masthead. If your boat has a staysail, it needs a separate halyard. These lines are primarily untouched on vessels with a furling system except when you pack the sail away or back up. Commonly referred to as the jib halyard.

Spinnaker Halyard

A spinnaker halyard is basically the same as the main halyard but used to hoist and lower the spinnaker, gennaker, or parasailor. 

The spinnaker halyard is also excellent for climbing up the front of the mast, hoisting the dinghy on deck, lifting the outboard, and many other things.

A sheet is a line you use to  control and trim a sail to the angle of the wind . The  mainsheet  controls the angle of the mainsail and is attached between the boom and the  mainsheet   traveler . The two headsail sheets are connected to the sail’s clew (lower aft corner) and run back to each side of the cockpit.

These are control lines used to adjust the angle and tension of the sail. It is also the line used to unfurl a headsail on a furling system. Depending on what sail you are referring to, this can be the  Genoa sheet , the  Jib sheet , the  Gennaker sheet , etc.

The outhaul is a line attached to the clew of the mainsail and used to adjust the foot tension. It works runs from the mainsail clew to the end of the boom and back to the mast. In many cases, back to the cockpit. On a boat with  in-mast furling , this is the line you use to pull the sail out of the mast.

Topping lift

The topping lift is a line attached to the boom’s end and runs through the masthead and down to the deck or cockpit. It lifts and holds the boom and functions well as a spare main halyard. Some types of sailboat rigging don’t use a topping lift for their boom but a boom vang instead. Others have both!

Topping lifts can also be used to lift other spars.

A downhaul is a line used to lower with and typically used to haul the mainsail down when reefing and lowering the spinnaker and whisker poles. The downhaul can also control the tack of an asymmetrical spinnaker, gennaker, or parasailor.

Tweaker and Barber Haul

A tweaker is a line, often elastic, attached to the sheet of a headsail and used to fine-tune the tension on the sheet.

Barber haul

A barber haul is a line attached to a headsail’s sheet to adjust the sheeting angle to the wind. It is often used to pull the clew further toward the center or outboard than the cars allow.

Boom Preventer

A boom preventer is a line attached to the boom’s end when sailing off the wind. Its function is to hold the spar in place and prevent it from swinging wildly.

If the boat were to get an accidental gybe, it could cause serious damage to the rigging or even harm people on board. It is important for the rigger to be cautious when setting up the boom preventer.

Running Backstay

Running backstays is similar to a normal backstay but uses a line instead of a hydraulic tensioner. Some rigs have additional check stays or runners as well.

Bonus tip: Reefing

The term reefing is used when reducing the effective sailing area exposed to the wind of a given sail. Headsails are usually reefed by partially furling them in, and they often have marks for what we refer to as 1st, 2nd, and 3rd reefs.

The mainsail is reefed similarly with an in-mast furling or in-boom furling system.

On a traditional mast, we use a system called slab reefing. The system has reefing lines running through the boom to reinforced points on the luff and leech, allowing you to pull the sail down to the boom and effectively reduce the sail area.

Having at least two reefing points in the mainsail is normal, but most cruising sailboats have 3. The 3rd is used for the heaviest conditions, giving you only a tiny bit of sail area exposed to the wind.

You want to reef your sails  before  the wind increases to a point where your boat gets overpowered.

It is essential to practice your reefing technique . You will find yourself in situations with rapidly increasing winds where you need to reduce your sails quickly.

Rule of thumb:  If you think setting a reef might be a good idea, do it.

Shaking a reef  is the term used when we sail with a reefed sail and want to increase the sail area back to full.

Hardware used for sail handling and the running rigging

Furling system.

Most sailboats have their headsail on a furling system. A furling system is a tube that runs along the forestay from the bottom furler drum to the masthead swivel.

This system allows you to roll the headsail around the forestay, making furling the sail in and out accessible. It is also convenient when reefing the sail when the wind picks up, as you can easily do this from the safety of the cockpit. These furling systems come in manual versions and electric versions.

In-mast furling

In-mast furling is a system that rolls the mainsail in and out of the mast. To unfurl the mainsail, we use the  outhaul .

In-boom furling

In-boom furling is a system that rolls the mainsail in and out of the boom. This system has been costly and has mostly been seen on big yachts earlier. They are becoming more affordable and common on smaller boats, though. To unfurl this setup, we use the main halyard.

A Stack pack is also called a Lazy Bag or Lazy Pack. It is a bag with a zip attached to the boom where the mainsail is stored when unused. It protects the mainsail from UV rays from the sun and weather elements. It is a very nice and tidy way to store the mainsail and reefing lines if you don’t have in-mast or in-boom furling.

Lazy Jacks is a system of lines running from the stack pack to the mast. The Lazy Jacks guide the mainsail up and down from the Stack Pack and prevent it from falling down on the deck. It is also possible to rig Lazy Jacks without a Stack Pack.

A block is a pulley with a sheave wheel. Blocks are used to change the direction of a pull on a line or rope and give a mechanical advantage. They have many uses, especially onboard sailboats.

A winch is a metal drum that gives you a mechanical advantage to control and tighten lines. These can be operated by turning a rope around it and pulling manually or by a winch handle to get more force. Most modern winches are self-tailing, which means they lock the line on so you can winch the line without holding on to it. Some boats even have electrical winches operated by a button.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a horizontal track that the mainsheet is attached to through a series of blocks. The traveler enables you to adjust and lock the boom at an angle and also plays a critical part in trimming the mainsail.

Most cruising sailboats have their traveler attached to the top of the coachroof in front of the spray hood. A racing boat typically has the traveler in the cockpit near the helm to give the helmsman better control over the mainsheet.

The cars are basically a pulley or block attached to a track on the port and starboard deck that your headsail sheets run through. Cars are used to control the angle of the sheet between the clew and the deck. The cars are handy when you trim the sail to set the right balance of tension between the foot and leech, depending on your point of sail.

The jammer is used to lock a line in place. Most sailboats use these for locking the halyards, mainsheet, outhaul, reef lines, traveler lines, boom vang lines, etc. You can pull or winch a line through a closed jammer, but it won’t run away if you let go of it unless you open the lock. 

As I explained earlier, it is normal to have most or all of the lines led back to the cockpit, and they are usually run through a series of jammers.

The jammers are often labeled with the name of the line it locks, which makes it easier to remember which line goes where.

Spinnaker Pole

A spinnaker pole is a spar used to wing out a headsail when sailing off the wind, particularly the spinnaker. The spinnaker pole should have the same length as the distance between the mast and the forestay measured along the deck. We use a fore and aft guy and the pole’s topping lift to rig a pole correctly.

The rigging varies depending on the layout of the boat, but it usually looks like this:

• One line runs from the bow to the end of the pole.
• An aft line runs from near the stern to the end of the pole.
• A topping lift is used to raise and lower the pole.

Whisker Pole

A whisker pole is similar to the spinnaker pole and is rigged similarly. It is typically built lighter and attached to a track on the mast. These can be found in fixed lengths or adjustable lengths. Ideally, the length should be the same as the foot of the headsail you intend to pole out.

Boom Vang/Rod Kicker

The Boom Vang has a few different names. Rod-kicker, kicking strap, or kicker. It is used to tension the boom downwards. When you are sailing downwind and have the boom far out, the mainsheet won’t pull the boom down as much as inboard, and you can then use the vang to adjust the twist and shape of the mainsail.

Mooring line

A mooring line is a traditional rope lead through a fairlead to the vessel’s cleat and a mooring buoy, key, or pontoon.

Final words

Congratulations! By now, you should have a much better understanding of how the running rig on a sailboat functions. We’ve covered the different lines, their purpose, and the hardware used to operate them. I hope you’ve enjoyed this guide and learned something new.

Now it’s time to take what you’ve learned and put it into practice by getting out on the water, setting sail, and getting hands-on experience with the lines.

Or you can continue to my following guide and learn more about the different types of sails .

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Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

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Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

Sail boat rigs: the pros and cons of each popular design

• Peter Poland
• July 24, 2023

Peter Poland looks at the history of popular rig designs and how the different types affect boat performance

Annie Hill’s FanShi can be easily reefed, a real benefit of the junk rig when sailing solo. Credit: Annie Hill Credit: Annie Hill

Having once asked yacht designer Andrew Wolstenholme if we could meet to discuss the evolution of modern sail boat rigs – and the continuing popularity of some older designs – we talked about boats in general and gaff rigs in particular, many of which he designs.

“The gaff still has much to recommend it. With stiffer, yet lighter carbon fibre spars , it can offer bigger benefits than it ever did in the past,” said Andrew.

His recent gaff-rigged designs like the new Cornish Crabber 24 MkV and smaller Kite 21 prove this point.

The 45ft barge yacht  Juno  was designed by Andrew Wolstenholme, built by Charlie Ward and launched in 2000. If you fancy a taste of history she can be chartered through  www.sailingbargejuno.com . Credit: Neil Foster

It’s generally accepted that the gaff evolved from the spritsail rig , which in turn evolved from earlier lugsail and – before then – square sail rigs .

The lugsail attaches to a spar that is hoisted at an angle. So part of the spar and sail protrude ahead of the mast, and this leading edge enables a boat to sail upwind.

The evolution of the lugsail started when someone discovered that by setting a square sail at an angle – with one end of the yard pointing down towards the deck – the sail could set closer to the wind.

Upwind advantage

Some say the Chinese junk rig is also descended from square sails as used on Chinese ships before the 12th century.

The junk rig , also known as the Chinese lugsail or sampan rig, evolved with full length battens extending the sail forward of the mast, providing a leading edge to help sail upwind.

The ever-inventive Blondie Hasler designed and built a modern version of the junk rig for his modified Nordic Folkboat, Jester .

He then entered the first single-handed transatlantic race in 1960, helping to initiate the OSTAR and boosting the appeal of long-distance solo sailing in general, and the junk rig in particular.

Blondie Hasler’s Jester helped cement the appeal of the modern junk rig. Credit: Ewen Southby-Tailyour

David Tyler, Annie Hill and Roger Taylor are three leading lights of the Hasler-inspired move to modern junk rigs, and have sailed many thousands of miles between them.

A Sadler 25 was the first of five junk rig boats that David Tyler owned. He and Annie Hill were also founder members of the ever-informative Junk Rig Association .

David told me he “could not contemplate sailing under anything else than a junk rig”, and has a long history of experimenting with and making variations of the junk rig.

David Thomas designed a ply/epoxy 35ft shoal draught junk rig ocean cruiser for David Tyler.

Tystie  with an earlier single mast sail plan. She later converted to a ketch  rig . Credit: Darren Bos

Hedley Bewes built Tystie beside the Hamble to a completed and painted woodwork stage; then Tyler fitted her out with junk rig, engine , electrics , and deck hardware in just three months.

She was launched in August 2000 and ended up in New Zealand, where she was sold – 16 years later – having sailed 85,000 miles.

“I could not possibly have done this under any other rig,” said David.

He then designed a modern cambered junk rig for his Hunter Duette 23, admitting that this “still does not compete with a big genoa to windward but is superior in all other ways – especially if you define efficiency as ‘miles sailed per unit of input of crew effort’. She had a junk rig of my own design first, then a junk rig-based wingsail.”

David concluded that a modern cambered junk rig “can encompass many features: including various sailmaking ways of building 3D camber into each panel with straight battens; or a flat sail with hinged battens; or a flat fanned sail with twist (a fiendishly cunning method found in Hong Kong junks). My favourite sail has slightly cambered panels with hinged battens. This is easier to set without diagonal creases than deeply cambered panels; and has a smoother curved foil shape than a flat sail with hinges.”

Sail boat rigs proven offshore

Annie Hill is another junk rig enthusiast who has sailed many thousands of miles and written books about her voyages.

She’s now based in New Zealand, having built the David Tyler-designed FanShi “from scratch with a small amount of amateur assistance from friends.”

“The best aspect of a junk rig for single-handed sailing is the speed and ease with which you can reef ,” explained Annie. “The sail tacks automatically which helps in close quarters sailing, as does having exactly the right amount of sail for the situation. I find another great advantage is that when I’m sailing off the anchor or a mooring , I can raise three or four panels, so the boat doesn’t go charging off as I walk back to the cockpit. I can then raise the rest of the sail while leaving the anchorage. And of course, I only raise just what I need.”

Annie Hill christens her self-built FanShi on launch day in New Zealand. Credit: Annie Hill

Annie Hill mentions several junk rig benefits: “The junk rig is much easier to handle downwind. It’s reluctant to gybe until you are sailing well by the lee. The sail is fully squared out so that it is working efficiently. And it’s easy to change from running to reaching to beating, without having to handle guys, poles or vangs.

“In short, the junk rig is much easier to sail. The junk sail is intrinsically self-tacking, which makes beating to windward, especially in close quarters, infinitely less work. Ease of reefing – and making sail again – also means you always sail under the correct amount of canvas. This makes for faster passages and ensures the boat is properly underway in the aftermath of a gale.”

And the disadvantages? Most agree that the junk rig is less efficient when s ailing to windward in light airs .

Easy handling

Roger Taylor came upon the junk rig when buying his first Mingming ; one of around 25 factory-built junk rig Corribees.

“The conversion work was to make her more suitable for serious offshore work – unsinkable, watertight bulkheads, reduced cockpit, proper watertight hatch and so on. I bought her specifically to sail in the first Jester Challenge , and so nothing was more appropriate than a junk rig! I had, in any case, been fascinated by Jester herself for many decades.”

Mingming II came next – a standard triple keel Achilles 24 – so Roger replaced her Bermuda rig with a new junk rig.

Roger Taylor has covered many solo miles in his modified Achilles 24, Mingming II and says the junk sail is easy to repair at sea. Credit: Bertie Milne

“The main differences to the Hasler sail on Mingming were higher aspect ratio for speed in the light airs you get in the high Arctic latitudes in summer – so seven panels instead of six. And cambered panels instead of flat-cut, for better windward performance.

“The lower four panels were built separately as I didn’t have enough room in my London flat to sew the sail in one piece. It’s attached to the carbon-fibre battens with a hinge system. I named the sail the HHT – Hybrid Hinged Turbo! The unstayed mast was a cut down municipal lamp post, 8in diameter at the base, tapering to about 3in at the masthead; solid as a rock in all weathers.”

Roger added “I can reef instantaneously from the hatch and do all other sail handling from the safety and shelter of the main hatch. So I am never exposed on deck and am therefore warmer, drier, less stressed, and therefore more likely to make better decisions.”

As well as ease of handling, Roger says it is “a wonderfully relaxed and supple rig, with none of the extreme tensions of its Bermuda cousin.”

“The sensation at sea is quite different; you feel more in harmony with the elements, rather than their adversary. Few junk rig sailors I know would ever revert once they have experienced this. The rig is easy to repair at sea. If a sail panel tears you can take it out of service by lashing two battens together. If a batten breaks you can lash it to its neighbour (I did almost a whole voyage to Iceland and back like this, after breaking a batten in a Force 9 off the Dogger Bank) or fix it with a splint. With a fully battened rig, the sail is evenly supported at all points.”

A classic sail boat rig

Moving on to modern luggers , there are some recent interpretations of this classic rig.

British designer Nigel Irens is famous for his multihulls but also has an eye for the unusual, and in 1994 he came up with a couple of beautiful luggers.

His first was the Roxane , a 29ft yawl-rigged lugger loosely inspired by an old Shetland Island fishing boat.

Fitted with a carbon fibre main mast and yard, she has plenty of modern technology on board.

As an active racing class boat that doubles up as a tender and potterer, the 11ft 4in lug sail scow has many fans. Credit: Will Perritt/Alamy

He followed this with the smaller 22ft Romilly , another yawl-rigged lugger for trailer sailing . Both models were later produced by CoCoBe in Holland.

The songwriter and broadcaster Sir Richard Stilgoe was “immediately beguiled” by the Roxane after sailing her in 1995, and has his own called Ruby II .

“The lightness of the carbon spars undoubtedly makes a difference to stability. The rig works and sails really nicely. But I admit that I and another owner are working with Nigel to investigate a conversion to two Bermuda masts – still unstayed – with fathead sails. I don’t expect to go faster, but I do hope to be able to raise and lower the sails more quickly and easily,” said Sir Richard.

If you fancy trying a very small lugsail boat, the famous 11ft 4in scow has much to offer.

It’s widely sailed in the UK and the best-known example is the Lymington Scow. Fleets can be found along the South Coast.

Originally built in clinker, scows are now moulded in GRP.

Rooted in the past

The spritsail is another rig evolution. It appeared on small Greek craft in the Aegean Sea many centuries ago. The Romans followed suit with spritsail-rigged merchant ships.

The rig became increasingly sophisticated until the luff of the sail sat behind the mast, while the sprit went from the base of the mast to the peak of the sail.

The luff became long and straight and the boat could sail closer to the wind, especially with leeboards to reduce sideways drift and a foresail to increase sail area: both said to be Dutch innovations.

The most famous spritsail rigged workhorses were the large, flat-bottomed leeboard Thames barges, which could lower their masts to ‘shoot’ bridges before unloading their cargo.

The Optimist was designed as low cost started boats to children. Credit: Getty

There aren’t many new spritsail-rigged craft around these days, apart from thousands of Optimist dinghies sailed by children as starter-boats.

The Optimist was designed in 1947 by American Clark Mills to offer low-cost sailing for young people.

He drew a simple pram that could be built from three sheets of plywood, then the design was slightly modified and introduced in Europe by Axel Damsgaard.

There are now more than 160,000 Optimists sailed in around 120 countries.

At the 2020 Olympics, at least 75% of medallist skippers were former Optimist champions: the spritsail remains a cornerstone of sailing.

Working boat designs

The gaff rig – extensively used on workboats of all sorts – was a logical progression.

The sprit was replaced by a gaff that slid up the mast so two sides of the mainsail were attached to solid spars.

The later addition of a boom improved performance, but made lowering and raising the rig trickier when shooting bridges.

Some builders solved this problem by attaching the boom gooseneck to the top of a tall tabernacle in which the mast hinged, so the lowered mast, gaff and sail could still stack on top of the boom.

Continues below…

Keel types and how they affect performance

Peter Poland looks at the history of keel design and how the different types affect performance

Boat hull design: how it impacts performance

Peter Poland explains how boat hull design has evolved over the years and how it affects boat handling and accommodation

Rigging setup: Turning round a yacht’s performance

Little old boats can offer enormous fun for your money, but they often require some tweaking in order to be…

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David Harding looks at some of the latest developments in junk rig and meets the owners of different types of…

The gaff rig improved the versatility of workboats; the ability to sail to windward diluted sailors’ dread of a lee shore.

The gaff rig held sway on small to medium sized working craft and on growing numbers of leisure yachts until the Bermuda rig arrived.

Originally developed in Bermuda for smaller vessels then adapted to the larger ocean-going Bermuda sloop, this rig features a triangular mainsail hoisted to the top of the mast. Marconi’s invention of wire rigging to hold up tall radio masts soon spread to sailboats.

Performance-oriented designers borrowed Marconi’s idea and hoisted large three-sided mainsails on tall and well-supported masts.

As a result, the mainsail had a long, straight leading edge which optimised windward performance.

Crafted for speed

Predictably, yacht racing encouraged the proliferation of these ‘Marconi’ Bermuda rigs.

Metre boat and ocean racer designers were quick to forsake gaffs and go for large mainsails and smallish headsails set on tall masts.

When the Royal Ocean Racing Club (RORC)’s rules started influencing the post-war racing scene, masthead Bermuda rigs with smaller mainsails and larger overlapping genoas received favourable racing handicaps and therefore became the norm; masthead rigs with 150% overlapping genoas dominated the scene.

Fortuitously, self-tailing winches were invented (1974 patent) and fitted on race boats. And GRP production family cruisers followed suit.

The Westerly Centaur with a masthead rig and overlapping genoa

From top-selling Beneteaus like the First 30 (1977) to cruising twin keelers like the Westerly Centaur (1969), masthead rigs and overlapping genoas became the norm.

At the same time, the shorter mast, smaller main and standard working jib saved the builder money – and a large genoa went onto the ‘extras’ list!

The Hunter 19 was an example of how the RORC rule encouraged small mains and big genoas.

The National Squib keelboat’s identical hull and keel sports a well-balanced fractional rig with a small jib and a big mainsail.

But when the Squib grew a cabin and coachroof to become a handicap race boat, the rig height and mainsail shrunk while the headsail became a 150% genoa.

And early Hunter 19s won handicap races galore.

Meanwhile, classic 1960s and 70s cruiser-racers such as the Nicholson 32 , Contessa 26 and 32, Twister, Stella, Beneteaus and Jeanneaus et al clung to masthead rigs with small mainsails, working jibs and large genoas; the latter still lurking on the extras list.

The same applied to most of the British bilge- and twin-keel family cruisers .

Fractional sail boat rigs

Impressed by David Thomas’s quarter ton design, Quarto , Hunter was one of the first British builders to beat a path back to fractional rigged cruiser-racers .

Unlike most other quarter tonners at that time, Quarto featured a fractional rig.

In 1975, Hunter asked Thomas to design a GRP cruiser-racer with a similar rig. This became the Sonata, and Hunter never again built a masthead-rigged yacht.

At around the same time, the new International Offshore Rule (IOR) handicap rule – followed later by the Channel Handicap System (CHS) and International Rating Certificate (IRC) rules – treated fractional sail boat rigs more fairly.

Hunter twin keelers, like the Hunter Channel 31, have fractional rigs. Photo: Sven Petersen/Hunter Association

Hunter’s twin keel cruisers also had easily handled fractional rigs, later including self-tacking jibs as standard.

As most sailors moved over to Bermuda rigs, working boats such as fishing smacks and pilot cutters stuck to their four-sided mainsails held aloft on gaffs.

As did several leisure yachts. Why? What are the advantages of these ‘four sided’ mainsails?

While gaff-rig aficionados concede that it’s less close-winded than a Bermuda rig, they reckon it scores off the wind.

Although a gaffer’s mast is shorter, ample sail can be set because the gaff puts more area at the top of a mainsail than you get beneath the diminutive headboard on a Bermuda rig mainsail.

On a reach or a run, gaff rigs provide power aplenty.

Design expert CA Marchaj also said a low aspect ratio mainsail is more efficient than a high aspect ratio equivalent when sailing off the wind.; if you want to pile on more horsepower in light airs, the space above the gaff can also be filled with a topsail.

Ideal for novices

In the 21st century, modern gaffers are still popular, and thousands of novices enjoy sailing in a ubiquitous and simple little gaffer: the Mirror dinghy .

The Mirror’s gunter-rigged gaff slides up parallel to its short mast and offers many benefits.

Sail boat rigs: The Mirror Dinghy originally had a gunter-rigged gaff rig; later the Mirror Class introduced a Bermuda rig option. Credit: Getty

The mast and gaff are much shorter than a one-piece Bermuda rig mast, so are easy to handle and transport when the boat is trailed.

Yet windward performance is good, thanks to the straight luff that continues from the tack of the mainsail to its head on the ‘gunter’ gaff.

The Mirror Class later introduced a Bermuda rig option.

Modern gaffers

Designer Andrew Wolstenholme attributes much of the credit for the popularity of the gaff rig in cruising yachts to Cornish Crabbers.

These boats have sold in large numbers since Roger Dongray designed the original Cornish Crabber.

Her smaller sister, the 19ft Cornish Shrimper, sports a nicely balanced gaff rig with a sizable roller genoa tacked to a bowsprit.

Over 1,000 have been sold and she’s still in production. Wolstenholme has recently designed a new Cornish Crabber 24 MkV with a lightweight carbon mast which also simplifies trailer-sailing.

Sail boat rigs: The gaff-rigged Cornish Crabber 24, with a lightweight carbon mast. Credit: David Harding

Wolstenholme’s Kite 21 is another modern gaffer to take advantage of new materials.

“My aim is to keep her light and simple… the sail plan is generous and set on lightweight carbon spars. I want her to sail well in light and moderate winds – not just in a blow. I want to tow her behind a normal 1.8 litre saloon – not some gas guzzling 4×4.”

The Old Gaffers Association aims to encourage interest in the traditional gaff rig, but also welcomes the development of the rig.

One of these exotic ‘new’ gaffers is the Simon Rogers-designed Alice III. Chris Spencer-Chapman, whose company McKillop Classic Sails was involved in the rig and sail plan, says the “combination of the light carbon spars and hydraulic lifting deep fin and bulb keel allows an enormous sail area which would not be possible with a conventional hull and spars. She is exciting in light conditions but the windage can be an issue to windward in heavy conditions. “Off the wind she is always very fast… for easy cruising, the Bermuda rig will win, but there will always be the aficionado who likes the features of traditional rigs. Unless you are a real purist, why not take advantage of modern materials?”

Sail boat rigs: The Kite 21 is a modern gaffer designed to sail well in light and moderate winds. Credit: Peter Chesworth

Stephen Akester, who co-owns Alice III , told me she “is light displacement at 7.5 tonnes. In light airs and no sea she outperforms Bermuda rigs but to windward in a blow she loses out due to windage and not being as close winded. [She has] much less weight aloft and a very different motion to a classic gaff-rigged heavy displacement vessel. We opted for a gaff rig for the fun of it. Further refinements using modern materials mean we can set the rig up for single-handed sailing with headsails and topsail on rollers and boom bags to catch main and mizzen.”

The Nigel Irens-designed 63ft Maggie B was another dramatic ‘modern gaffer’.

Builder Covey Island Boatworks called her a ‘fusion’ yacht because she fused modern materials with traditional ideas.

Her schooner rig featured short, high peaked carbon gaffs on Irens’s slippery and almost plumb stemmed shoal draught hull design.

The carbon spars are held up by Vectran fibre shrouds tensioned by special deadeyes.

Reducing weight

Vectran costs more than wire, but the weight reduction is huge – as is the cost saving on fabrications to attach wires to the mast and on rigging screws to tension them.

The weight saving aloft meant that 600kg worth of ballast was saved down below, improving performance and righting moments.

Maggie B was succeeded by Farfarer – another Irens masterpiece featuring an unstayed rig with ‘fathead’ mainsails, with a stiff top batten doing the job of a mini gaff.

Matt Newlands of Swallow Boats also brought gaffs into the modern age; then went further.

“The gunter rig was what we offered, and still do, to customers who prefer having shorter spars making trailer-sailing easier for two reasons – less length to trail and easier to raise the mast. But in my opinion, it has been made almost obsolete by two developments. One is carbon fibre masts, and the other is fathead mainsails.

The mast on the BayRaider 20 is only 1m longer than the boat; the ‘fathead’ mainsail improves the lift and drag ratio and maintains sail area. Credit: David Harding

“Carbon masts on trailer-sailer sized boats are so light that it’s easy to raise a full-length mast if the base is hinged. The mast length problem is cured by using a ‘fathead’ mainsail, reducing mast length (on our boats by as much as 1m) while maintaining the same sail area and improving lift/drag ratio.

“On our popular BayRaider 20 this results in a mast that is only 1m longer than the boat. This new rig has many advantages over the gunter, chief among them being ease of reefing. I love quirky rigs, but it’s hard to beat the Bermuda mainsail setup especially with a fathead main on a carbon mast.”

All of which brings us to the Bermuda rigs on today’s production cruisers.

Many have moved on from the old RORC-inspired masthead sail plan. I asked rigging expert Nigel Theadon whether he preferred masthead or fractional sail boat rigs.

“Modern swept-back spreaders provide a ‘safer’ rig without the need for babystay or forward lowers to stabilise the mast’s middle sections… forestays are now higher up the mast than in years gone by, so the modern fractional rig is closer to a masthead than it once was,” he says.

“Fractional rigs are more attractive to look at and do not need expensive and powerful backstay adjusters. When buying a new boat, consider what you want from the rig. When buying a used boat, get a rigger to carry out a mast inspection: because hull surveyors rarely look above eye height.”

Whether you opt for a gaff- or Bermuda-rigged boat, this is sound advice.

Nigel was class champion of the X332; its well-balanced ultra-modern fractional rig works as well for a small cruising crew as it does for keen racers.

But don’t let this put you off a modern gaffer if you enjoy its quirks and character.

Our coastline would be a boring place if we all sailed the same sorts of boats.

Pros and cons of popular sail boat rig designs

Chinese junk rig.

Sail boat rigs: Chinese junk rig. Credit: Darren Bos

Pros: Easy to raise and reef. Easy to tack, gybe and sail single-handed. Easy to control in strong winds.

Cons: Not as close-winded as other rigs. Can be expensive and complicated to build/fit.

Sail boat rigs: Gaff rig. Credit: Neil Foster

Pros: Shorter spars make trailing easier. Modern carbon spars are light and easier to raise/lower. Efficient on a reach or run. Easy on the eye.

Cons: Not as close-winded as modern Bermuda rigs.

Masthead Bermuda rig

Sail boat rigs: Masthead Bermuda rig. Credit: Graham Snook

Pros: Close-winded. Large genoas can be reefed with modern roller furling gear. Modern self-tailing winches make short-tacking easier. Small mainsails easier to control.

Cons: Large genoas can be hard work for cruising.

Fractional Bermuda rig

Sail boat rigs: Fractional Bermuda rig. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: Very close-winded with tight sheeting angles. Smaller jib is easier to tack, set and trim when shorthanded A large mainsail adds extra off-wind power

Cons: Swept spreaders can chafe mainsails when dead-running.

Enjoyed reading Sail boat rigs: the pros and cons of each popular design?

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The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

What's that sail for? Generally, I don't know. So I've come up with a system. I'll explain you everything there is to know about sails and rigs in this article.

What are the different types of sails? Most sailboats have one mainsail and one headsail. Typically, the mainsail is a fore-and-aft bermuda rig (triangular shaped). A jib or genoa is used for the headsail. Most sailors use additional sails for different conditions: the spinnaker (a common downwind sail), gennaker, code zero (for upwind use), and stormsail.

Each sail has its own use. Want to go downwind fast? Use a spinnaker. But you can't just raise any sail and go for it. It's important to understand when (and how) to use each sail. Your rigging also impacts what sails you can use.

On this page:

Different sail types, the sail plan of a bermuda sloop, mainsail designs, headsail options, specialty sails, complete overview of sail uses, mast configurations and rig types.

This article is part 1 of my series on sails and rig types. Part 2 is all about the different types of rigging. If you want to learn to identify every boat you see quickly, make sure to read it. It really explains the different sail plans and types of rigging clearly.

Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures)

First I'll give you a quick and dirty overview of sails in this list below. Then, I'll walk you through the details of each sail type, and the sail plan, which is the godfather of sail type selection so to speak.

Click here if you just want to scroll through a bunch of pictures .

Here's a list of different models of sails: (Don't worry if you don't yet understand some of the words, I'll explain all of them in a bit)

• Jib - triangular staysail
• Genoa - large jib that overlaps the mainsail
• Spinnaker - large balloon-shaped downwind sail for light airs
• Gennaker - crossover between a Genoa and Spinnaker
• Code Zero or Screecher - upwind spinnaker
• Drifter or reacher - a large, powerful, hanked on genoa, but made from lightweight fabric
• Windseeker - tall, narrow, high-clewed, and lightweight jib
• Trysail - smaller front-and-aft mainsail for heavy weather
• Storm jib - small jib for heavy weather

I have a big table below that explains the sail types and uses in detail .

I know, I know ... this list is kind of messy, so to understand each sail, let's place them in a system.

The first important distinction between sail types is the placement . The mainsail is placed aft of the mast, which simply means behind. The headsail is in front of the mast.

Generally, we have three sorts of sails on our boat:

• Mainsail: The large sail behind the mast which is attached to the mast and boom
• Headsail: The small sail in front of the mast, attached to the mast and forestay (ie. jib or genoa)
• Specialty sails: Any special utility sails, like spinnakers - large, balloon-shaped sails for downwind use

The second important distinction we need to make is the functionality . Specialty sails (just a name I came up with) each have different functionalities and are used for very specific conditions. So they're not always up, but most sailors carry one or more of these sails.

They are mostly attached in front of the headsail, or used as a headsail replacement.

The specialty sails can be divided into three different categories:

• downwind sails - like a spinnaker
• light air or reacher sails - like a code zero
• storm sails

The parts of any sail

Whether large or small, each sail consists roughly of the same elements. For clarity's sake I've took an image of a sail from the world wide webs and added the different part names to it:

• Head: Top of the sail
• Tack: Lower front corner of the sail
• Foot: Bottom of the sail
• Luff: Forward edge of the sail
• Leech: Back edge of the sail
• Clew: Bottom back corner of the sail

So now we speak the same language, let's dive into the real nitty gritty.

Basic sail shapes

Roughly speaking, there are actually just two sail shapes, so that's easy enough. You get to choose from:

• square rigged sails
• fore-and-aft rigged sails

I would definitely recommend fore-and-aft rigged sails. Square shaped sails are pretty outdated. The fore-and-aft rig offers unbeatable maneuverability, so that's what most sailing yachts use nowadays.

Square sails were used on Viking longships and are good at sailing downwind. They run from side to side. However, they're pretty useless upwind.

A fore-and-aft sail runs from the front of the mast to the stern. Fore-and-aft literally means 'in front and behind'. Boats with fore-and-aft rigged sails are better at sailing upwind and maneuvering in general. This type of sail was first used on Arabic boats.

As a beginner sailor I confuse the type of sail with rigging all the time. But I should cut myself some slack, because the rigging and sails on a boat are very closely related. They are all part of the sail plan .

A sail plan is made up of:

• Mast configuration - refers to the number of masts and where they are placed
• Sail type - refers to the sail shape and functionality
• Rig type - refers to the way these sails are set up on your boat

There are dozens of sails and hundreds of possible configurations (or sail plans).

For example, depending on your mast configuration, you can have extra headsails (which then are called staysails).

The shape of the sails depends on the rigging, so they overlap a bit. To keep it simple I'll first go over the different sail types based on the most common rig. I'll go over the other rig types later in the article.

Bermuda Sloop: the most common rig

Most modern small and mid-sized sailboats have a Bermuda sloop configuration . The sloop is one-masted and has two sails, which are front-and-aft rigged. This type of rig is also called a Marconi Rig. The Bermuda rig uses a triangular sail, with just one side of the sail attached to the mast.

The mainsail is in use most of the time. It can be reefed down, making it smaller depending on the wind conditions. It can be reefed down completely, which is more common in heavy weather. (If you didn't know already: reefing is skipper terms for rolling or folding down a sail.)

In very strong winds (above 30 knots), most sailors only use the headsail or switch to a trysail.

The headsail powers your bow, the mainsail powers your stern (rear). By having two sails, you can steer by using only your sails (in theory - it requires experience). In any case, two sails gives you better handling than one, but is still easy to operate.

Let's get to the actual sails. The mainsail is attached behind the mast and to the boom, running to the stern. There are multiple designs, but they actually don't differ that much. So the following list is a bit boring. Feel free to skip it or quickly glance over it.

• Square Top racing mainsail - has a high performance profile thanks to the square top, optional reef points
• Racing mainsail - made for speed, optional reef points
• Cruising mainsail - low-maintenance, easy to use, made to last. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• Full-Batten Cruising mainsail - cruising mainsail with better shape control. Eliminates flogging. Full-length battens means the sail is reinforced over the entire length. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• High Roach mainsail - crossover between square top racing and cruising mainsail, used mostly on cats and multihulls. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• Mast Furling mainsail - sails specially made to roll up inside the mast - very convenient but less control; of sail shape. Have no reef points
• Boom Furling mainsail - sails specially made to roll up inside the boom. Have no reef points.

The headsail is the front sail in a front-and-aft rig. The sail is fixed on a stay (rope, wire or rod) which runs forward to the deck or bowsprit. It's almost always triangular (Dutch fishermen are known to use rectangular headsail). A triangular headsail is also called a jib .

Headsails can be attached in two ways:

• using roller furlings - the sail rolls around the headstay
• hank on - fixed attachment

Types of jibs:

Typically a sloop carries a regular jib as its headsail. It can also use a genoa.

• A jib is a triangular staysail set in front of the mast. It's the same size as the fore-triangle.
• A genoa is a large jib that overlaps the mainsail.

What's the purpose of a jib sail? A jib is used to improve handling and to increase sail area on a sailboat. This helps to increase speed. The jib gives control over the bow (front) of the ship, making it easier to maneuver the ship. The mainsail gives control over the stern of the ship. The jib is the headsail (frontsail) on a front-and-aft rig.

The size of the jib is generally indicated by a number - J1, 2, 3, and so on. The number tells us the attachment point. The order of attachment points may differ per sailmaker, so sometimes J1 is the largest jib (on the longest stay) and sometimes it's the smallest (on the shortest stay). Typically the J1 jib is the largest - and the J3 jib the smallest.

Most jibs are roller furling jibs: this means they are attached to a stay and can be reefed down single-handedly. If you have a roller furling you can reef down the jib to all three positions and don't need to carry different sizes.

Originally called the 'overlapping jib', the leech of the genoa extends aft of the mast. This increases speed in light and moderate winds. A genoa is larger than the total size of the fore-triangle. How large exactly is indicated by a percentage.

• A number 1 genoa is typically 155% (it used to be 180%)
• A number 2 genoa is typically 125-140%

Genoas are typically made from 1.5US/oz polyester spinnaker cloth, or very light laminate.

This is where it gets pretty interesting. You can use all kinds of sails to increase speed, handling, and performance for different weather conditions.

Some rules of thumb:

• Large sails are typically good for downwind use, small sails are good for upwind use.
• Large sails are good for weak winds (light air), small sails are good for strong winds (storms).

Downwind sails

Thanks to the front-and-aft rig sailboats are easier to maneuver, but they catch less wind as well. Downwind sails are used to offset this by using a large sail surface, pulling a sailboat downwind. They can be hanked on when needed and are typically balloon shaped.

Here are the most common downwind sails:

• Big gennaker
• Small gennaker

A free-flying sail that fills up with air, giving it a balloon shape. Spinnakers are generally colorful, which is why they look like kites. This downwind sail has the largest sail area, and it's capable of moving a boat with very light wind. They are amazing to use on trade wind routes, where they can help you make quick progress.

Spinnakers require special rigging. You need a special pole and track on your mast. You attach the sail at three points: in the mast head using a halyard, on a pole, and on a sheet.

The spinnaker is symmetrical, meaning the luff is as long as its leech. It's designed for broad reaching.

Gennaker or cruising spinnaker

The Gennaker is a cross between the genoa and the spinnaker. It has less downwind performance than the spinnaker. It is a bit smaller, making it slower, but also easier to handle - while it remains very capable. The cruising spinnaker is designed for broad reaching.

The gennaker is a smaller, asymmetric spinnaker that's doesn't require a pole or track on the mast. Like the spinnaker, and unlike the genoa, the gennaker is set flying. Asymmetric means its luff is longer than its leech.

You can get big and small gennakers (roughly 75% and 50% the size of a true spinnaker).

Also called ...

• the cruising spinnaker
• cruising chute
• pole-less spinnaker
• SpinDrifter

... it's all the same sail.

Light air sails

There's a bit of overlap between the downwind sails and light air sails. Downwind sails can be used as light air sails, but not all light air sails can be used downwind.

Here are the most common light air sails:

• Spinnaker and gennaker

Drifter reacher

Code zero reacher.

A drifter (also called a reacher) is a lightweight, larger genoa for use in light winds. It's roughly 150-170% the size of a genoa. It's made from very lightweight laminated spinnaker fabric (1.5US/oz).

Thanks to the extra sail area the sail offers better downwind performance than a genoa. It's generally made from lightweight nylon. Thanks to it's genoa characteristics the sail is easier to use than a cruising spinnaker.

The code zero reacher is officially a type of spinnaker, but it looks a lot like a large genoa. And that's exactly what it is: a hybrid cross between the genoa and the asymmetrical spinnaker (gennaker). The code zero however is designed for close reaching, making it much flatter than the spinnaker. It's about twice the size of a non-overlapping jib.

A windseeker is a small, free-flying staysail for super light air. It's tall and thin. It's freestanding, so it's not attached to the headstay. The tack attaches to a deck pad-eye. Use your spinnakers' halyard to raise it and tension the luff.

It's made from nylon or polyester spinnaker cloth (0.75 to 1.5US/oz).

It's designed to guide light air onto the lee side of the main sail, ensuring a more even, smooth flow of air.

Stormsails are stronger than regular sails, and are designed to handle winds of over 45 knots. You carry them to spare the mainsail. Sails

A storm jib is a small triangular staysail for use in heavy weather. If you participate in offshore racing you need a mandatory orange storm jib. It's part of ISAF's requirements.

A trysail is a storm replacement for the mainsail. It's small, triangular, and it uses a permanently attached pennant. This allows it to be set above the gooseneck. It's recommended to have a separate track on your mast for it - you don't want to fiddle around when you actually really need it to be raised ... now.

Why Use Different Sails At All?

You could just get the largest furling genoa and use it on all positions. So why would you actually use different types of sails?

The main answer to that is efficiency . Some situations require other characteristics.

Having a deeply reefed genoa isn't as efficient as having a small J3. The reef creates too much draft in the sail, which increases heeling. A reefed down mainsail in strong winds also increases heeling. So having dedicated (storm) sails is probably a good thing, especially if you're planning more demanding passages or crossings.

But it's not just strong winds, but also light winds that can cause problems. Heavy sails will just flap around like laundry in very light air. So you need more lightweight fabrics to get you moving.

What Are Sails Made Of?

The most used materials for sails nowadays are:

• Dacron - woven polyester
• woven nylon
• laminated fabrics - increasingly popular

Sails used to be made of linen. As you can imagine, this is terrible material on open seas. Sails were rotting due to UV and saltwater. In the 19th century linen was replaced by cotton.

It was only in the 20th century that sails were made from synthetic fibers, which were much stronger and durable. Up until the 1980s most sails were made from Dacron. Nowadays, laminates using yellow aramids, Black Technora, carbon fiber and Spectra yarns are more and more used.

Laminates are as strong as Dacron, but a lot lighter - which matters with sails weighing up to 100 kg (220 pounds).

By the way: we think that Viking sails were made from wool and leather, which is quite impressive if you ask me.

In this section of the article I give you a quick and dirty summary of different sail plans or rig types which will help you to identify boats quickly. But if you want to really understand it clearly, I really recommend you read part 2 of this series, which is all about different rig types.

You can't simply count the number of masts to identify rig type But you can identify any rig type if you know what to look for. We've created an entire system for recognizing rig types. Let us walk you through it. Read all about sail rig types

As I've said earlier, there are two major rig types: square rigged and fore-and-aft. We can divide the fore-and-aft rigs into three groups:

• Bermuda rig (we have talked about this one the whole time) - has a three-sided mainsail
• Gaff rig - has a four-sided mainsail, the head of the mainsail is guided by a gaff
• Lateen rig - has a three-sided mainsail on a long yard

There are roughly four types of boats:

• one masted boats - sloop, cutter
• two masted boats - ketch, schooner, brig
• three masted - barque
• fully rigged or ship rigged - tall ship

Everything with four masts is called a (tall) ship. I think it's outside the scope of this article, but I have written a comprehensive guide to rigging. I'll leave the three and four-masted rigs for now. If you want to know more, I encourage you to read part 2 of this series.

One-masted rigs

Boats with one mast can have either one sail, two sails, or three or more sails.

The 3 most common one-masted rigs are:

• Cat - one mast, one sail
• Sloop - one mast, two sails
• Cutter - one mast, three or more sails

1. Gaff Cat

2. Gaff Sloop

Two-masted rigs

Two-masted boats can have an extra mast in front or behind the main mast. Behind (aft of) the main mast is called a mizzen mast . In front of the main mast is called a foremast .

The 5 most common two-masted rigs are:

• Lugger - two masts (mizzen), with lugsail (cross between gaff rig and lateen rig) on both masts
• Yawl - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast much taller than mizzen. Mizzen without mainsail.
• Ketch - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller mizzen. Mizzen has mainsail.
• Schooner - two masts (foremast), generally gaff rig on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller foremast. Sometimes build with three masts, up to seven in the age of sail.
• Brig - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Main mast carries small lateen rigged sail.

4. Schooner

5. Brigantine

This article is part 1 of a series about sails and rig types If you want to read on and learn to identify any sail plans and rig type, we've found a series of questions that will help you do that quickly. Read all about recognizing rig types

Related Questions

What is the difference between a gennaker & spinnaker? Typically, a gennaker is smaller than a spinnaker. Unlike a spinnaker, a gennaker isn't symmetric. It's asymmetric like a genoa. It is however rigged like a spinnaker; it's not attached to the forestay (like a jib or a genoa). It's a downwind sail, and a cross between the genoa and the spinnaker (hence the name).

What is a Yankee sail? A Yankee sail is a jib with a high-cut clew of about 3' above the boom. A higher-clewed jib is good for reaching and is better in high waves, preventing the waves crash into the jibs foot. Yankee jibs are mostly used on traditional sailboats.

How much does a sail weigh? Sails weigh anywhere between 4.5-155 lbs (2-70 kg). The reason is that weight goes up exponentially with size. Small boats carry smaller sails (100 sq. ft.) made from thinner cloth (3.5 oz). Large racing yachts can carry sails of up to 400 sq. ft., made from heavy fabric (14 oz), totaling at 155 lbs (70 kg).

What's the difference between a headsail and a staysail? The headsail is the most forward of the staysails. A boat can only have one headsail, but it can have multiple staysails. Every staysail is attached to a forward running stay. However, not every staysail is located at the bow. A stay can run from the mizzen mast to the main mast as well.

What is a mizzenmast? A mizzenmast is the mast aft of the main mast (behind; at the stern) in a two or three-masted sailing rig. The mizzenmast is shorter than the main mast. It may carry a mainsail, for example with a ketch or lugger. It sometimes doesn't carry a mainsail, for example with a yawl, allowing it to be much shorter.

Special thanks to the following people for letting me use their quality photos: Bill Abbott - True Spinnaker with pole - CC BY-SA 2.0 lotsemann - Volvo Ocean Race Alvimedica and the Code Zero versus SCA and the J1 - CC BY-SA 2.0 Lisa Bat - US Naval Academy Trysail and Storm Jib dry fit - CC BY-SA 2.0 Mike Powell - White gaff cat - CC BY-SA 2.0 Anne Burgess - Lugger The Reaper at Scottish Traditional Boat Festival

Hi, I stumbled upon your page and couldn’t help but notice some mistakes in your description of spinnakers and gennakers. First of all, in the main photo on top of this page the small yacht is sailing a spinnaker, not a gennaker. If you look closely you can see the spinnaker pole standing on the mast, visible between the main and headsail. Further down, the discription of the picture with the two German dinghies is incorrect. They are sailing spinnakers, on a spinnaker pole. In the farthest boat, you can see a small piece of the pole. If needed I can give you the details on the difference between gennakers and spinnakers correctly?

Hi Shawn, I am living in Utrecht I have an old gulf 32 and I am sailing in merkmeer I find your articles very helpful Thanks

Thank you for helping me under stand all the sails there names and what there functions were and how to use them. I am planning to build a trimaran 30’ what would be the best sails to have I plan to be coastal sailing with it. Thank you

Hey Comrade!

Well done with your master piece blogging. Just a small feedback. “The jib gives control over the bow of the ship, making it easier to maneuver the ship. The mainsail gives control over the stern of the ship.” Can you please first tell the different part of a sail boat earlier and then talk about bow and stern later in the paragraph. A reader has no clue on the newly introduced terms. It helps to keep laser focused and not forget main concepts.

Shawn, I am currently reading How to sail around the World” by Hal Roth. Yes, I want to sail around the world. His book is truly grounded in real world experience but like a lot of very knowledgable people discussing their area of expertise, Hal uses a lot of terms that I probably should have known but didn’t, until now. I am now off to read your second article. Thank You for this very enlightening article on Sail types and their uses.

Shawn Buckles

HI CVB, that’s a cool plan. Thanks, I really love to hear that. I’m happy that it was helpful to you and I hope you are of to a great start for your new adventure!

Hi GOWTHAM, thanks for the tip, I sometimes forget I haven’t specified the new term. I’ve added it to the article.

Nice article and video; however, you’re mixing up the spinnaker and the gennaker.

A started out with a question. What distinguishes a brig from a schooner? Which in turn led to follow-up questions: I know there are Bermuda rigs and Latin rig, are there more? Which in turn led to further questions, and further, and further… This site answers them all. Wonderful work. Thank you.

Great post and video! One thing was I was surprised how little you mentioned the Ketch here and not at all in the video or chart, and your sample image is a large ship with many sails. Some may think Ketch’s are uncommon, old fashioned or only for large boats. Actually Ketch’s are quite common for cruisers and live-aboards, especially since they often result in a center cockpit layout which makes for a very nice aft stateroom inside. These are almost exclusively the boats we are looking at, so I was surprised you glossed over them.

Love the article and am finding it quite informative.

While I know it may seem obvious to 99% of your readers, I wish you had defined the terms “upwind” and “downwind.” I’m in the 1% that isn’t sure which one means “with the wind” (or in the direction the wind is blowing) and which one means “against the wind” (or opposite to the way the wind is blowing.)

paul adriaan kleimeer

like in all fields of syntax and terminology the terms are colouual meaning local and then spead as the technology spread so an history lesson gives a floral bouque its colour and in the case of notical terms span culture and history adds an detail that bring reverence to the study simply more memorable.

Hi, I have a small yacht sail which was left in my lock-up over 30 years ago I basically know nothing about sails and wondered if you could spread any light as to the make and use of said sail. Someone said it was probably originally from a Wayfayer wooden yacht but wasn’t sure. Any info would be must appreciated and indeed if would be of any use to your followers? I can provide pics but don’t see how to include them at present

kind regards

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You may also like, 17 sailboat types explained: how to recognize them.

Ever wondered what type of sailboat you're looking at? Identifying sailboats isn't hard, you just have to know what to look for. In this article, I'll help you.

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Sailboat line & rigging - halyards, sheets, control lines & more.

Line is a critical part of any sailboat, from small dinghy to super yacht and everything in between. West Coast Sailing offers a wide variety of line and marine rope for every sailor from leading line manufacturers. Whether you're looking for a new control line for your Laser vang, jib sheet for your J24, replacement halyard for your cruising boat, or a high strength low stretch line for a high performance application, we've got what you need to get you back on the water. Shop by common application, diameter, material, and more with options available from Robline, Marlow, Alpha Ropes, and New England Ropes. All line sold by the foot with line kits for select boats and small diameter mini spools available.

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West Coast Sailing offers custom rigging, line kits, and pre cut line for many popular one design dinghies and keelboats. These products make it simple to get the right line for your sailboat and you can be confident they will work great.

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Shop By Line Type

Line has come a long way in the past few decades, and current options offer great value and performance. We offer a variety of h igh tech Lines, which generally feature a non-stretch core for strength, durable cruising lines, which are typically polyester and less expensive but still strong and durable, or Dyneema, Spectra, & Vectran for non-stretch control line, halyard, and sheet applications. Shockcord bungee and floating Polypropylene also available. Scroll down this page for recommendations for line material based on your boat size and application.

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Shop By Diameter

West Coast Sailing carries over 80 different lines from 6 of the best rope manufacturers in diameters ranging from 1mm all the way up to 12mm. Use our handy category filters to narrow in on the specific diameter of lines that work for your application, and then pick the one that meets your exact criteria for performance, color, or price.

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Additional Line Options & Services

In addition to per foot line, pre cut line, line kits, and custom rigging, West Coast Sailing also offers mini spools, splicing equipment, and custom rigging services. If you can dream it, our team can build it! 

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Line Fiber Type / Material Guide

Line Application Guide - Dinghy

Line Application Guide - Racing

Line Application Guide - Performance Cruising

Line Diameter Guide

Recommended Diameter by Application & Boat Length

If you are replacing an existing line, the easiest way to determine what diameter you need is to match what you already have. This can be done with a caliper or by close estimation with a tape measure. For example, if you've previously used a 7mm halyard and it has performed well, another 7mm line is likely a great choice. In most applications, there is some flexibility in the exact diameter that can be used. Most blocks, for example, have an 'ideal' diameter (ie, the line diameter that runs most effectively though the block's sheave) but also have a range so that you can run a slightly thinner or slightly thicker line. If you have a halyard that is getting hung up in your rig, stepping down 1-2mm might help the halyard run more efficiently. If you have a larger boat or rig and want to run a thinner halyard, consider a double braid line that features a Dyneema or Spectra core for strength. A similar approach can be applied to replacing sheets, control lines, and other line on your sailboat.

Double Braid vs Single Braid

Two terms you will often see in line descriptions are 'double braid' and 'single braid', which refer to the way the line is constructed. At the most basic level, a double braid line has a cover and a core whereas a single braid does not, but there are other important distinctions to consider when making a line selection.

Single Braids  are made up of either 8 or 12 strands that are braided into a circular pattern, half clockwise and half counter clockwise. This produces a line that is supple, absorbs twists, and tends not to kink. There are two types of single braid lines: performance single braids and polyester/blended single braids. Performance single braids are made from fibers with very low stretch and designed to handle extreme loads - think Dyneema, Spectra, or Vectran. Polyester/blended single braids, sometimes called hollow braid, are soft and easy to grip, built for sheets and hand-adjusted control lines. These are less common than performance single braid lines but recommended in a few specific applications.

Double Braids , sometimes called braid on braid, have a braided core within a braided outer jacket or cover. This creates a strong, durable, smooth-running line that is easy to handle. Double braids are used for the vast majority of all running rigging on sailboats including sheets, halyards and control lines for both cruising or racing. There are two types to consider: polyester double braids and high-tech double braids. Polyester double braids, found most commonly on recreational and cruising sailboats, have a polyester cover with polyester core. These are low maintenance, affordable, and long-lasting, while offering relatively low stretch and high working loads. For additional strength and minimal stretch, consider high-tech double braids. These lines typically feature a Dyneema or Spectra core (non-stretch) inside a polyester or polyester/dyneema blend cover for additional durability. They are more expensive but often the go to choice for high performance racing boats.

Sailing Programs & Clubs - West Coast Sailing offers special program pricing on purchases for sailing programs, yacht clubs, and community sailing organizations. Visit our YC & Program Purchasing  page for more details.

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Rigging Redo: A Switch to Synthetic

• By Behan Gifford
• August 23, 2024

Updating the standing rigging on our Stevens 47, Totem , wasn’t an intentional part of the 40-year refit that we recently completed. We had re-rigged in 2019, anticipating our departure to the South Pacific in spring 2020. The pandemic scratched that, and we embarked on a significant refit in 2021 that instead left this rig on saw horses for a year and a half.

Putting the rig back up was among the last tasks during our extended stay at Cabrales Boatyard in Puerto Peñasco, Mexico. As we neared mast-stepping day in November 2023, my husband, Jamie, busted out his rigging kit. That’s how we refer to the 10X loupe that serves as the key for scrutinizing components at a level that human eyes just can’t do without magnification. 

Some halyards showed age and wear, but we already knew this and had a replacement Dyneema/polyester double braid replacement line on hand. The one surprise? Totem ’s backstay.

Our Backstay’s Weak Link

New in 2019, the wire still looked fine, as did the swages. But two Sta-Lok insulators on the backstay —an assembly that enables that aft wire to be used as an antenna for single sideband radio—didn’t. Surface crazing on the black nylon portion of the insulators, which were added in 2008, suggested ultraviolet degradation.

During our 2019 rerig, we chose to reuse the backstay insulators. The fittings inspected well. Some people consider mechanical rigging terminals such as Sta-Lok, Hayn Hi-MOD and Norseman to be indefinitely reusable. They’re not. Jamie considers their lifespan at two rigging cycles (or about 20 years) maximum. Our old insulators met safe criteria, so we saved money by keeping them.

Still, we knew to look out for trouble. In the past few years, friends on two different cruising boats had rig failures due to broken insulators. Both crews practice good seamanship and don’t skimp on safety. Melissa White has written about losing the backstay on Galapagos (in her blog, Little Cunning Plan , and also in 48°N magazine ), three weeks into a passage from Hawaii to the Pacific Northwest. With only 500 nautical miles to Cape Flattery, Washington, their insulator snapped in half in the rolling swells of the North Pacific Ocean. They were in conditions that allowed them to stabilize the rig, and they altered course to a closer point of landfall.

The crew of Miles wasn’t so lucky: When their insulator failed, their rig came down . Never mind the fact that they’d had a rigging inspection only months before, and no faults had been found.

When they dismasted, they were in degrading conditions approximately 100 miles east of Eleuthera, Bahamas. In an admirable effort, they secured the wreckage and bashed overnight to the nearest safe harbor in San Salvador.

So, Jamie took another look at our setup last November, and he condemned Totem ’s insulator. The conclusion was easy, but the decision about next steps was not.

We were days from putting Totem back in the water, looking for a weather window to sail south. Five family members were flying to meet us in a bay 800 nautical miles south of the boatyard. Any delay in stepping would make us late for the family Christmas. Could we get to Puerto Vallarta with the existing backstay, or could the rig be compromised on our trip south?

And, in the time between putting insulators on the new rig in 2019 and wrapping an extensive refit in 2023, we had changed our stance on single sideband use. Once our only offshore communication, the hardware no longer earned a place on Totem because multiple satellite options are available today. Since we weren’t installing the SSB , we didn’t need new insulators. This opened options to consider in replacing the backstay.

One of those options was Dyneema, which is a strong, lightweight line made from synthetic ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fibers. Dynex Dux is Dyneema that’s put through another cycle of heating and stretching to get every fiber in every yarn bundle to be exactly the same length. It’s lightweight, super strong and has virtually no stretch, making it a great alternative to wire for rigging.

We knew this because in 2008, Jamie had installed a Dynex Dux solent stay and inner forestay on Totem . He had also installed a Dux backstay on a friend’s boat in Puerto Rico in 2017, and loved the results.

With Totem now our focus, we reached out to Colligo Marine, the US distributor for Dynex Dux, rebranded as Colligo Dux . Colligo’s founder, co-owner and lead engineer, John Franta, helped us. Picking up the backstay became a perfect excuse for us to drive to Southern California for Thanksgiving with cousins. (Shipping into Mexico is fraught with issues.) Barely a week later, we were on our way back to Mexico with the new backstay in hand.

Shifting forward a few weeks, Totem was in Banderas Bay in time for family Christmas, after a conservative sail south with the old backstay in place. The new one was installed in the slip at Marina Riviera Nayarit. The hardest part of replacing the backstay with the mast up? Detaching and lowering the old backstay, because it was so heavy. The new stay was in place minutes later.

Wire vs. Synthetic Rigging

If Dux is so great, why didn’t we replace all of our standing rigging with it back in 2019?

Well, we did think about it. At the time, Jamie chose wire because of the cost of additional hardware necessary in the shift to synthetic rigging. We simply didn’t have the resources to consider the upgrade.

There are other considerations for a switch to synthetic rigging, too. They include abrasion, chafe, ultraviolet longevity and thermal expansion. Stainless steel wire has just as many issues and is harder to inspect well. Our new backstay was an easy choice this time around because of the weight savings, ease of installation and absence of chafe points.

We’re now getting ready to sail around 2,000 nautical miles from Hawaii to Micronesia. We aren’t sure yet if we’ll make landfall in Tarawa, Kiribati, or sail the slightly shorter distance to Majuro, Marshall Islands. Ideally, we can visit Tarawa first (it’s harder to get there later), but the weather will make the decision for us.

Meanwhile: Totem Talks will be on again before we sail west. For this next free livestream, we’ll have a circumnavigation roundtable with our friend and neighbor here in Hawaii, Dustin Reynolds . He didn’t just circumnavigate: Dustin holds a Guinness World Record for the first solo voyage around the world by a double amputee (arm and leg).Bring your voyaging questions, and sign up to be notified by email for the date of the livestream.

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