sailboat dodger plans

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• Doable DIY: Crafting a Simple, Durable Dodger

Have you ever noticed an old and badly neglected sailboat at the marina or boat yard or that grabs you and pulls you in? One that calls to you beyond just the fiberglass and weathered teak, making you feel some salty combination of pity and lust, and begging you to give her a new life?

Well, I am that weak guy who just can’t walk away. After more than a dozen sailboats, the desire to restore these works of art has become even stronger. Just as I’ve finished up the restoration of one, I’ll stumble onto another one that looks to me for help. You’re reading 48° North, so maybe I’m preaching to the choir. My friends and family have told me I’m crazy, but I know friends that restore old cars and nobody considers them crazy. Maybe I am crazy and it has nothing to do with sailboats.

On many of my restorations, I’ll finish off by making a cockpit dodger for the boat. In the past, I’ve installed a half-dozen canvas dodgers with prefabricated frame and skin kits. Those kits are a good product, but they’ve gotten so expensive over the last several years that I’ve had to rethink the whole process of making dodgers. With limited funds and even more limited intelligence, I realized that a different type of dodger could be used — something simple, strong, attractive, and inexpensive. And something that was bulletproof (figuratively, and potentially literally) could also be handy. That’s where the idea of Lexan or polycarbonate came to mind (Lexan is a brand of polycarbonate). By making my own frame and using Lexan sheets, my experimental dodger project was launched.

Aluminum tubing for the frame can be used instead of stainless steel due to the support from the shape of the dodger. One inch aluminum frames are more than adequate in strength and much less expensive than stainless. In fact, the overall strength of this type of dodger with aluminum is much greater than a traditional canvas dodger with a stainless frame.

The fittings for the frame came from a combination of online retailers, both marine-specific and not — from Fisheries Supply to Amazon. The remaining aluminum tube was cut using a small-tooth hacksaw and used for the frame bracing. Similarly, I cut down frame arcs and bracing to the proper lengths to create a dodger shape that would blend well with the contours of the boat. The most important rule here is to work slowly and cut small amounts at a time for the final fit. Through trial and error I’ve discovered that, once cut, aluminum pipes are difficult to glue back together again.

With the frame completed and secured, I needed to make a pattern for the Lexan sheeting that would go over it. I just used some Visqueen sheeting that I temporarily taped tightly over the frame and marked with a Sharpie pen. Remember to mark the pattern about an inch beyond the frame for the top portion sheet of the dodger for later attaching a cosmetic edging with a cut white cable cover (more on this later).

The Lexan can be easily cut with a fine-tooth jigsaw. Polycarbonate is great stuff and nearly impossible to break, and so much easier to use than acrylic or Plexiglass sheets, which can shatter.

Now that the patterns are cut for the top and the front of the dodger you can attach them to the frame using aluminum rivets. The metal of the rivets must match the aluminum metal it attaches to. Simply start from the center of the arcs and slowly drill and rivet every six inches or so while bending down the Lexan and working towards the ends on each side. Some folks like to have sides on their dodgers and this is easy to do. To make this work, take a larger scrap of the Lexan, hold it up the the side you want to cover and, with your Sharpie, draw the shape of the side piece; then cut it and rivet this onto the aluminum frame.

Now for the dodger color and windows. Lexan sheets normally have a plastic protective film covering on both sides to reduce scratching during shipment. Take advantage of this and don’t peel it off right away. Draw out on this film where you want the windows to go. Take a sharp knife or box cutter and, using a straight edge, carefully and superficially cut through just this film along your marked window edges both on the outside and inside surfaces. Carefully remove all the film surrounding the windows. Let me repeat: make sure that you leave the protective film on the areas that cover the windows.

Once the peripheral areas of film are removed, you can reinforce this window edge with painter’s masking tape before gently roughing up this exposed surface a little with a fine grain sandpaper before one final cleaning. Paint this peripheral area leaving the film on for the windows. For painting my dodgers, I use leftover matching two-part polyurethane called “Perfection” from Interlux that I had lying around after some trim work. If you want to have the dodger look old-school, you could actually permanently glue a sheet of Sunbrella over the Lexan sheet to make it look like a canvas dodger. I haven’t tried this yet, but might on my next boat.

I’ve now made dodgers in this style for a little Halman Nordic 20 and a Catalina 25. I can honestly say that these have been enjoyable learning experiences for me; and I’m confident that this is a cost-effective and handsome alternative to traditional cloth dodgers, and a project that can be completed by nearly all sailors.

DODGER DETAILS

Here’s a run down of what I paid for my most recent dodger:

• 3- 8’ X 1” Aluminum tubes/pipes, $46 (Home Depot)
• 6 – Jaw Flanges, $62
• 6 – Bases, $37
• 12 – Eye Ends, $32
• 1/8 “ Lexan Polycarbonate Sheeting, $144 (Home Depot)
• 2 – ⅜” Shroud Cable Cover, $5 (Fisheries Supply)
• 2 – Stainless grab handles, $45
• Aluminum Rivets, $4
• Case of beer, $21
• Total: $416

The project may at first seem overwhelming but believe me if I can do it, I know you can and probably better. The secret is to take it slow and make it fun. Remember my work-ethic rules:

• Never be afraid to make mistakes.
• Never admit to making mistakes.
• Work alone so no one sees you make mistakes.
• The best craftsmen are the best at hiding their mistakes.
• When someone spots one of your mistakes, always say to them, “That’s how I wanted it to look.”

Mike Swesey is a long-time sailor and author who calls Newport, Oregon his home base. He is old and grumpy most of the time, and is unapologetically addicted to the roll of the sea.

Mike Swesey

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Sailor-friendly sailboat dodger designs

I have been a sailor longer than I have been a marine fabricator. In fact, being a sailor is how I got into this business. I often hear from fellow fabricators that the client is not always right, but when it comes to dodger design, it is important to listen to the client’s desires. 

A dodger is an important feature of a sailboat that can greatly enhance the sailing experience. It is an essential component in providing protection from the elements for the companionway and cockpit area. When done correctly, it will complement the overall look of the boat and function well. When done poorly, it can be an eyesore and a nuisance. According to the sailors I spoke with, here are the most important features of a dodger:

• It provides protection from the weather.
• It offers a good line of sight.
• It enables easy companionway access. 
• It provides airflow. 
• It does not interfere with sailing.

This article will help you understand how to achieve a great dodger design that your clients will love.

Dodger styles

There are two basic dodger types: a traditional dodger and a California dodger. 

A traditional dodger is fabricated all in one piece that is seamed across the front bow of the frame. It will typically have a front center roll-up window and a more rounded frame. I use a custom 18-inch radius bender to achieve this look. 

A California dodger will have a fabric top with anywhere from two to five removable panels. It will feature a flatter frame and will typically provide better all-around visibility. It very much resembles a small bimini with an enclosure. California dodgers are increasing in popularity; however, traditional dodgers are still commonly found on classic boats.

Determine the right style

Determining the right dodger style for your clients depends on a variety of factors. Asking the following questions can help you assess the pros and cons of both dodger styles and guide your clients to the right decision.

How do the clients use their boat? For example, clients who use the boat for both cruising and racing may want to fold down and/or remove the dodger during races. A traditional dodger can be designed to fold down, although folding clear vinyl repeatedly will damage it well before the end of its life. In this scenario, a California dodger with removable panels might be a better option. 

What type of climate are they sailing in? If your client sails in an area with significant temperature changes, having the ability to remove some or all of the panels to increase airflow provides maximum flexibility unlike a traditional dodger with only a single center panel to roll up. 

What is most aesthetically pleasing to both the client and the boat? Classic boats, which typically have a narrower beam, look better with a traditional dodger. Newer boats with wider beams look better with a California dodger, which has a flatter frame. 

How wide is the cabin top? Can your client easily see around the sides? If not, a traditional dodger may impede visibility too much, and a California-style dodger might be the better option. 

Will they be storing the dodger during the off-season? If so, a one-piece traditional dodger might be a lot for some to wrestle on and off the boat. California-style dodgers not only offer easier handling but also store flat. 

Design for functionality 

Clearance, clearance, clearance. This cannot be stressed enough. Your clearance design can create a great sailing experience or an unpleasant one. Two very important aspects of sailing are the winches and traveler line.  

Winches are often mounted on the combing in the cockpit or on the cabin top and often have an 8-to-10-inch removable handle. It is very important to ensure a 360-degree rotational clearance for the handle. A second consideration is the clearance between a winch and/or cleats mounted on the combing and dodger wings for entering and exiting the cockpit area. Although not always possible, try to design with ample distance between them to avoid a tripping hazard. In both scenarios, a scalloped wing may be the way to go to provide clearance while still maintaining a good design. 

The traveler line will run from forward of the dodger windshield into the cockpit on each side and, in some cases (not all), may require an upward lift motion of several inches. When it does, clearance can be provided by aligning with the vertical zipper connection of two panels or by creating a vertical slit directly into the clear vinyl. A cleaner installation is running the line through a fairlead on the cabin top and through the dodger windshield using a small circular entry point, such as a large grommet. This avoids the need for a large slit in the windshield.

Height considerations

The last thing you want is for your clients to be hitting their heads every time they get in and out of the companionway or having the dodger frame land at exactly eye level. Most often, I find clients want to see through the dodger rather than over the dodger, which allows them to sail with a connector for additional shade. With taller clients, it can be a challenge to balance this without making the dodger appear boxy or more like a tugboat than a sailboat.

To counter this, consider these design moves:  

Maximize the forward and aft length of the dodger top. The longer this length, the shorter the dodger will appear. It is good practice to extend the aft edge of the dodger a few inches past the aft opening of the companionway, particularly for boats without a connector. It will help prevent rainwater from dripping directly on top of or into the companionway.  

Increase the amount of crown. In most cases, for aesthetic reasons, I look to match the crown of the frame with the “crown” of the cabin top. To accommodate a taller dodger, adding more crown allows maximum height in the center while decreasing the height moving toward the sides, which also makes it appear slightly shorter. 

Avoid a boxy or straight up-and-down look. This can be done by increasing the rake of the front windshield and/or decreasing the shoulder width of the frame from the mounting point. When decreasing the shoulder width, be careful to still allow proper clearance for any cabin top winches and handles. You will also need to ensure the dodger will both fit under the boom and have proper clearance for the mainsheet, which often runs close to parallel with the windshield, possibly extending over the top of the dodger. It is very important to have your client set the boom in “sailing position.” Many clients will raise the boom height when in port. 

My last piece of advice is to be creative! A dodger is an excellent project for letting your creativity shine. A dodger should look like it was an original part of the boat design and not an add-on. Features like scalloped wings, rounded window corners mimicking the shape of the port windows and details created with stitching and fabrics are all great ways to set your dodger apart from others.  

Keri Ames is the owner, fabricator and instructor at Yachtsman’s Canvas and Marine Canvas Training. She has trained extensively with Mark and Deb Hood of Hood Marine Canvas Consulting in Rhode Island and Dave Elliot of David’s Custom Trimmers, Brisbane, Australia. She has received multiple MFA Excellence Awards for her dodgers.

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The Offshore Voyaging Reference Site

• How To Home Build a Hard Dodger For an Offshore Sailboat

After reading about our  dodger , very experienced live aboard voyagers Lane and Kay Finley sent along a detailed description of their hard dodger, complete with photographs. The advantage of theirs over ours is that it is all hard with glass windows; much stronger and pretty much maintenance free. On the other hand, I like the larger expanse of window, fewer blind spots and curved shape of ours. Just goes to show that everything on a boat is a compromise.

Many thanks to the Finleys for sharing the information below:

In the end, we designed and built our own hard top, using foam-cored fiberglass construction to achieve strength and lightness. The finished project is strong, safe to stand on, gives excellent visibility through glass , doesn’t ruin the lines of the boat and provides amazing protection from the weather.

Our navigation electronics now live under the hard dodger where they are protected from the elements and much more user friendly. We have also noticed that we get less ‘salt air’ inside the cabin.

Before undertaking this project, we took pictures of dozens of hard dodgers on boats that we saw sailing in New Zealand waters. The New Zealanders are well aware of the benefits and you can see all sorts of creative designs in every port.

Since we consider our Annapolis 44 to have fairly elegant lines we were very cautious to adhere to a complementary design. After many drafts, we finally drew the final design to scale and then lofted the plans on our garage floor. We built the mould out of MDF plywood with inserts for the windows so that the 10mm safety glass would end up being set-in against a solid fiberglass lip and be flush with the exterior surface of the hard top.

This was a ‘female’ mould, so the interior surface was sanded smooth and then waxed to prevent the fiberglass resins from sticking to the mould. We laid up the required layers of fiberglass cloth and resin in the mould, and then placed the foam core (30mm medium density) over the fiberglass layers. At this point we laid up more fiberglass to the design specifications and ‘sandwiched’ the foam in place.

High Modulus, a composite engineering company in Auckland, made some recommendations for the engineering specifications.

The finished product, which also includes a dome light and reading lights in the ceiling, was fibreglassed in place and we re-painted the deck to finish it off. It has proven to be an excellent addition to the boat and cost approximately US$3000 in materials to build. Of course that does not count our labour. However, it was an interesting winter project and one that we are very proud of.

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More Articles From Cockpit Enclosures and Dodgers:

• Cockpit Dodger For an Offshore Sailboat
• A Sailor’s Cockpit Enclosure—Part 1
• A Sailor’s Cockpit Enclosure—Part 2

We are venturing out on our first cruise at the end of this year. San Diego to Annapolis VIA Panama Canal BVI. I am considering a hard dodger, but am probably going to do the work myself due to quality craftsmanship, and design. Any pics and instructions explaining your process would be a real help. I truely believe there is a growing interest in hard dodger design and home fabrication. You’d surely get internet traffic if you posted your process. Thanks in advance. Darrell

Hi Darrell, I guess I feel like Lane and Kaye have already given some pretty good information on how to build a dodger in this post. That is probably about as far as we or them can go for free. (Internet traffic does not put food on the table.)

I would recommend that if you want a detailed design as well as specification for the materials that you contact Ed Joy . Not only will you learn how to build the dodger from him, you will also get a dodger that fits the lines of your boat and enhances her resale value.

I built a hard dodger for Jenain, my steel Ebbtide 36, a few years ago. I used commercial Hexacor g.r.p panels, which are cored with cored with pvc honey comb, 10mm tempered glass for the fixed windows and 12mm polycarbonate for the opening window. I built it using the stitch and glue technique and West Epoxy. In my case, it has to be removable as I could otherwise not remove the engine. This was an easy project, finished in two weeks, and very strong, good looking and practical. Off course in hind sight, it could be improved on, by moulding in wire conduits for example, but overall I am very happy with it. It provides great protection, is light, and compliments the boat’s lines. I have a lot of photos if anyone is interested.

That sounds like a great way to build a hard dodger and much easier than building a mold. Thanks for sharing your experence. Also, really good point about the importance of being able to remove the dodger to get the engine out of most sailboats.

I know what you mean about hindsight improvements, I made exactly the same omission!

hey bill i would be interested in some pictures of your dodger. i have a goderich 37 ‘ steel hull (libro vent), and i need to get her ready for travel. thanks jonathan miller

hey bill i would like to see some pictures of your dodger. i have a 37′ steel hull (libro vent). i need to get her ready for travel. thanks jonathan

If it ever stops snowing, I am going to replace my Sunbrella covered dodger and bimini with something rigid. I would love to see some detail pics of your stitch and glue technique with the Hexicore also how you deal with the edges. Sounds like the best way to go.

Would you send me some picture as well? I’d like to make one for my pocket cruiser S2 9.2c sounds like a good way to go. Captain Den

If I had your email address, I could send you the info!

Bill, please send pics of your dodger. Thank you.

Hi Bill, Please send pics of your dodger Thank you, Ed Rudetsky

Hello bill, Could you please send me your dodger pictures? Clive @ earrame.net Thanks in advance.

Hello Bill, Another request for dodger pictures! Would love to build one for my Niagara 35. Thanks in advance for sharing the photos.

Regards, Barry

This is a very old post and thread. Also since this is not a forum, but rather comments to post in WordPress, Bill is not being informed of your request, so I don’t think this is going to work for you.

I am building a hard dodger for an O’Day 35, I want to move the traveler from the deck forward of the companionway to the aft end of the dodger–out of the way. The main arch at the very rear which will be the load bearing part, has a base (entire top ) of 1/2″ cell modulus (NICORE) with one layer of fiberglass matting on the bottom and three on top, laminated. In addition, across the top inside will be two beams two feet apart and 65″ wide made of six 2″ strips of 1/4″ plywood laminated into a curve with an apogee of 6″. On the sides in the area of the traveler there will be a 1/2″ aluminum plate bolted to the side just above the deck with a straight piece of the laminated plywood connecting to the top beam with bolts, a 10″ x 10″ gusset and a aluminum “T” bar where the “T” is 1 full inch as is the cross part. This will be screwed to the wood piece and then the outer part. will accept the side structure on top of the aluminum plate and inserted into the notch in the aluminum upright that is connected to the wood upright. The sides will be a layer of fiberglass with under a 1/2 ” piece of Nicor and two or more layers of fiberglass inside. I’m going to make a deck casting out of fiberglass to mount the sides in and the whole thing will be smoothed and faired with more fiberglass, resin, etc. the casting will ne bolted to the deck. I don’t need to go further since the question is: Do you think this construction will be sufficient to handle the load of the traveler and it’s sheet?

I started to answer this, but it got long and ended up being an article. Look for it in a week or so.

Hello Denny

It’s not clear to me whether the hard dodger will be removable. Regardless, if ever you plan to move the boat via road, a non-removable dodger may not meet height restrictions. I recently had to remove an arch and all stanchions when transporting my Niagara 35. Barry

What Is A Hard Dodger? (And How To Build One)

‍ When sailing on your boat, you might come across undesirable wet conditions. Since you are on the water, you will likely be wet unless you have a hard dodger.

Staying dry while sailing is a tough task to accomplish, but it is possible. How would a hard dodger help and how do you build one?

Hard dodgers are enclosed structures protecting you and the cockpit from the elements. With this added protection, you are keeping yourself comfortable, electronics safe, and companionways dry. Building one is much cheaper than purchasing, but will also cost you time and patience.

Building a hard dodger should not be a task that is rushed, as you need to allow time for things to mold and take shape. If you are interested in building a hard dodger, you will see the importance and why it is essential for everyday sailing.

According to boaters university, sailing with a hard top dodger significantly improved the experience. No matter your sailing experience, having a hard top dodger makes the process efficient and more enjoyable.

Table of contents

‍ Basics of a Hard Dodger

There are two different types of dodgers, with one being soft and the other hard. Soft dodgers are typically made up of canvas or vinyl, but these are temporary or used on an as needed basis.

Hard dodgers are meant to be permanent and cost more money up front. The enclosed shell surrounding the cockpit, along with the laminated glass windows, protects your boat and offers a clear view for many years.

Benefits of a Hard Dodger

These dodgers offer the best combination of safety, comfort, and reliability. When sailing, you want to have the best of all three worlds and you want to protect your investment.

Protection Against All Conditions

Hard dodgers offer protection to the cockpit and companionways during inclement weather, high wind, or rough waves. Being protected by a hard dodger will be more comfortable during those situations, especially since you can hide under the hardcover.

Since you are underneath a hard dodger, you will be protected from the sun's rays as they will bounce off the top. As for soft dodgers, these will deteriorate over time with the harsh sun beating down on it, so you will be replacing these every so often if you do not remove them after each use.

Perfect View

Since the cockpit is enclosed and typically used laminated glass, you will have unobstructed views when sailing. In most soft dodgers, your view will be blocked by patches of canvas.

For hard dodgers that use laminated glass, these surfaces are easy to clean. If any mold or mildew attempts to form, it can easily be removed within a few seconds and you are back to clear views.

Reliability

The structure of a hard dodger will offer many benefits for years to come. For example, the structure will serve its primary purpose to protect from weather or rough waves, but it also includes secure handholds to safely step down into the cockpit or when exiting.

In addition, it also provides temporary shelter when riding out tough waves or storms. Getting caught out in a situation when you do not have any dodger is bad enough, but a hard dodger can make rough situations more tolerable.

How Much Does a Hard Dodger Cost?

There are not a lot of hard dodger kits for sale online. Instead, you would need to contact a company that builds them specifically for your boat or do one yourself.

Some websites offer kits for soft dodgers that require a special sewing machine . However, you can see how much money you need to spend just for fancy fabric that you will likely need to replace over time.

When it comes to hard dodgers, doing it yourself will save you tons of money over the long haul. Depending on the size of your boat and the materials that you use, you will be spending anywhere between $2,000 and up.

The reason there is not a price cap is because you can essentially add anything to a hard dodger and use about any materials necessary to get the job done. For a rough estimate, expect to spend around $10,000 on average to have good quality for the long term.

To put this in perspective, you might not want a hard dodger if your boat is relatively cheaper. If you have a $100,000 sailboat, or simply want to improve the value of your current one, it might make sense to protect your investment with a hard dodger.

How to Build a Hard Dodger

To begin the process, it would be best to have a cardboard prototype with measurements of your hard dodger that you want to make. If you have an old dodger handy or something of relevance to the size you need, that is a great start.

Having measurements and something to go by is great, especially since you do not want to obstruct your view of the helm. You also want to allow room for movement in the cockpit and navigating in or out of it.

Making the Shell

Use cardboard or something you can easily bend and cut to help make your mold. You will also need tape and something easily bendable with the use of a heat gun like pvc water pipe for mounting points.

Once you have made the shell, simply apply it to your boat and view from all angles. This way you can see how the rough draft will apply in real time and to get a better picture of things to come.

Cut Plywood

Once you are happy with the shape of your mold, it is time to apply that to the shape of plywood. You can use heavy duty marine grade ⅜ inch plywood or regular construction grade.

If you use marine grade, it will stand up to water better if it ever gets wet. However, it is harder to bend and regular construction grade could work just as well.

Once you have made the cut to your plywood, you should test the fit to make sure it works. Simply make adjustments as needed.

Make Bending Frame

Now is the time to make a bending frame for the plywood core. You could use two 2x12 wooden planks with cross pieces that screw on. The planks should be spaced out roughly a third of the width of the dodger, or your fore-aft distance.

It is important to note that you need a leveler and measuring tape to properly check the cuts. Anything that is off just the slightest could result in a warped or bent dodger when the final product is bolted down.

Cut along the profile of the dodger’s bend into two sections of plywood. You will need to screw in the contour pieces to the planks.

You will also need to cut roughly a dozen or so blocks, but do not need all of them, to help stabilize the dodger core. These could be something like 3x3x1, which you will use to evenly distribute along the contour.

Make a mark that will be easy to see when identifying your center line. This will be useful when bolting everything down when applying the core to the frame.

Now you can apply the core to your frame to see if everything fits. When aligning the center of the core to the contour, make sure you can apply enough pressure to allow it to conform.

Once everything is in line, you can screw the core to the frame. Using your center line from earlier, you can easily see the midline of the core and the midline of the frame.

Apply Dodger to Boat

Once you have built the dodger frame, you can now test it out on your boat. Carefully move the completed frame over to your boat and align accordingly.

Bolt down the dodger to the boat with the aligned holes. After bolting down the dodger, make sure you have everything in line before you attempt to do anything else.

You have two options to consider at this point for the next step. You can either remove the dodger from the boat to finish the process in another location or leave it and do all the work from the boat. Keep in mind that leaving it on the boat will require you to work entirely from the boat for the next several days or longer.

Once you have completed installing your dodger and any additional panels that you see fit, you can move onto the clean up process that will add longevity to the dodger. If there are any small gaps, this is not a big deal assuming it does not interfere with the integrity of your structure.

If you have small holes or gaps, this can be filled later with epoxy or wood filler. Keep in mind that you want something that is going to be easy to sand. You are going to want a smooth surface later to apply a coat of sealant and paint.

In addition, look for areas along edges to apply fiberglass tape, epoxy, and edge reinforcements. This will make the finishing process easier and give it a cleaner look while also stabilizing the frame.

Additional Features

Before you begin adding glass and sealant to your hard dodger, this is a great time to add any additional features such as speakers, opening hatches, solar panels, or anything you desire. Now that you have the frame in place to your liking, it is easier to add these features than after it is completed.

You do not have to have everything a perfectly snug fit. This will all be covered later in the clean up process, so do not stress over small gaps.

If you see an opportunity to make holes bigger for electronics or other features, now is the time to do so. You will have plenty of opportunity to fill everything with paint and epoxy later.

Adding Fiberglass

With the dodger perfectly in place, now is the time to add fiberglass. You should install temporary support systems to avoid any shape distortions wherever you are going to place the fiberglass. This is as simple as using tape, cloth, and your favorite epoxy.

Once you have installed the fiberglass, you need to make sure every corner or gap is filled. Simply continue to use epoxy in places where it is needed and remember that you can sand any excess later.

Sanding, Painting, and Applying Dodger

One of the most rewarding steps is to clean up the dodger. All of the love labor you have poured into this project now gets the flavor to suit your taste.

Finish sanding down the dodger and clean up any areas to provide a smooth surface. You also need to make sure there are not any unlevel spots, so using a fair compound to fill in these areas will need time to cure and sand later.

After you have sanded to perfection, you can paint the dodger to any color of your liking. For simplicity, most people stick to white.

The paint will need to be either an oil-based rust-proof paint or a single-component polyurethane. Whichever one you choose, you need to continue using that specific application or it will not stick properly over time. If you do not like that particular application, you would need to sand it all off and start again.

The easiest to use is an oil-based paint that is marine grade, or at least stands tough in water. This paint also works well when you want to apply a thing coat to give your dodger a fresh look over time.

If you have intentions of standing on top of your dodger, it would be wise to add some form of non-skid. This could be crushed walnut shells or sand over several coats of paint. Without non-skid, your dodger top will be like ice if you plan to step on it.

Once everything is painted, you can add the dodger to your boat if you had chosen to work at another location. Whether you are bolting it down now or previously in the process, make sure your bolts are heavy duty and rated for rough conditions.

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Jacob Collier

Born into a family of sailing enthusiasts, words like “ballast” and “jibing” were often a part of dinner conversations. These days Jacob sails a Hallberg-Rassy 44, having covered almost 6000 NM. While he’s made several voyages, his favorite one is the trip from California to Hawaii as it was his first fully independent voyage.

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Make a Mini Dodger

Cheap protection doesnt have to look cheap..

A companionway slider and hatch boards are the most common type of cabin entry on sailboats. Its seaworthy, lightweight, and inexpensive. Unfortunately, you can’t leave the hatch open when it’s raining without getting water below. Swapping the hatch boards for a hinged door is a popular upgrade, but in many boats there simply isn’t space for an opened door.

A dodger or hard top is another possibility, but dodgers increase windage, disrupt movement on deck, interfere with line and sail handling, partially block the view forward, and are expensive and heavy. Many sailors simply don’t sail in the rain often enough justify the downsides. However, after just one steamy evening below during a summer thunderstorm, buttoned up tight, and you’ll give your eye teeth for a little more air.

For my new-to-me boat, a Corsair F 24 trimaran, I envisioned a streamlined mini-dodger that would offer protection from spray and rain from forward or straight down. Access would be fast and it would not interfere with sailing, or add windage or weight.

The answer was a mini-dodger fabricated from a sheet of fiberglass shower-liner material. It snaps into the slider grove in seconds, and by virtue of being cut slightly wider than the opening, it flexes into a cone-shaped arch, tapering down to nothing at the forward end of the slider and providing a small overhang on the cockpit end.

Although the arch is not tall enough to enter the cabin standing, we can either crouch or sit on the sill and slide in. In the rain you can leave the slider open, with some or all of the boards left out, according to the wind direction. A screen inside blocks the bugs. With a small cabin, this is enough ventilation in the rain. Three ties secure it to the slider handle. The ties, combined with a tight fit, have made it secure in all winds.

The tie points are reinforced with a second layer of fiberglass to insure durability, and a rubberized extension on the forward edge makes for a good seal. Best of all, it can store flat under the V-berth mattress, taking no space and easily forgotten until it rains.

Making the Mini-Dodger

Measure the slider opening, including the width, and the length of the groove with the boards in and the hatch adjusted in the ideal open position (see below). Decide how much overhang you like. Depending on the angle of the companionway boards, six inches is typically enough. Decide how much arch you like, and estimate that arch with a tape measure. You want enough camber to spring it into the track. If camber is than 4 inches or more than 10 inches, it could slip or pop out of the track.

If there is a handle on the top of the slider, determine how far the slider must be open for the handle to clear the mini-dodger. This handle will provide secure tie-down points. If there is no handle, you can create a pair of hold-downs at the aft end of the companion way, or by a tight strap over the top.

Cut a test piece of posterboard similar to the shape you think will best fit. Test the fit, adding cut-outs, locating tie points, and adjusting for a custom fit. Once a final outline is selected, cut from 2.2 millimeter (.09-inch) thick fiberglass shower surround material. It can be cut to fit with a cut-off disk in an angle grinder or cutting with a razor utility knife (box-cutter), using the score-and-snap method. We found a 48-inch by 8-foot Smooth White Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (FRP) Wall Panel from Lowes Home Store for $65.

All of the corners, inside and outside, should be rounded to avoid stress concentrations. The schematic drawings for the mini-dodger are posted along with this article at www.practical-sailor.com.

Add reinforcement patches for the tie points and exposed corners by cutting scraps to fit and bonding them using epoxy thickened with colloidal silica or microfibers (prepare the surface by wiping with acetone and sanding). Taper the patch edges and wipe the epoxy smooth to provide smooth transitions. For the corner and edge patches, overlap the edge slightly and then trim away with a disk sander when cured. Sand all edges with 200-grit paper to eliminate splinters.

Drill holes for the tie-down cords; I used three on the slider handle only, both for security and to create the camber. You can also install ties at the aft corners of the overhang to connect to hooks or eyes in the cabin top. Trim the aft edge as needed to be certain you can remove the hatch boards with the mini-dodger in place.

Secure the cords to the dodger with stopper knots, seal the holes with a dab of polyurethane caulk, and cover the holes and knots with scrap Sunbrella ovals (ask your local canvas shop) bonded with polyurethane. This gives it a clean look. There are many other ways to attach the lines. The trick is to keep any holes watertight.

I left the pebble finish-face up for several reasons; it is more difficult to bond the reinforcements, the smooth surface should repel dirt better, and it’s shiny. I have used the same material for window covers for many years. It resists UV very well ( Practical Sailor DIY Fiberglass Hatch Covers , Mach 2016).

Our observations suggest this is a drop-in fit for Catalinas, Beneteaus, J-boats, and some Hunters and Pearsons. If your boat doesn’t have a track that will work, suitable aluminum track is available at hardware stores such as Home Depot and can be added above or outside of the existing track. Water will drain into the track, so it must be angled and sloped to allow drainage.

If your slide runs on top of the companionway, the dodger could also be secured without a track, using ties, or studs with knobs. This won’t fit all boats, but maybe we have given you a starting point for your own invention.

The result is a sleek dodger, reminiscent of the sleek cabintop of an Open 60 (or a Contessa 26). The cost is less than $70 (with lots of material left over), it weighs only five pounds, and it stows under the mattress, ready to be installed in a minute whenever rain threatens. It’s a simple, inexpensive, companionway solution that should last as long much longer than any canvas dodger.

Avid sailor and ice-climber, Drew Frye is a technical editor at Practical Sailor. He has a background in chemistry and engineering blogs about cruising products at www.sail-delmarva.blogspot.com .

Two often we look at marine stores for solutions to our boat problems. This simple fix uses a flexible fiberglass shower panel that is relatively cheap and easy to work with.

As with many projects involving cutting and fitting a new component, it is best to start with a template made of cardboad or stiff posterboard. This gives you plenty of opportunity to make adjustments to the fit and the placement of the tie-downs.

1. Test the fit, first with posterboard, and then with your finished shape before drilling holes for the tie-downs. 2. The reinforcement layers of scrap fiberglass at the tie points are bonded in place using epoxy thickened with colloidal silica or microfibers. 3. The underside of the cover, showing the reinforcing patches is ready for the final trim to fit. 4. A strip of Sunbrella wrapped around the edges and bonded with polyurethane epoxy protects the relatively think edges. 5. The installed dodger lashes down on the sliding hatch. In the event weather gets really wild and we need the hatch closed for safety, it can be removed in a matter of seconds.

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Have you any more photos? I can’t envision what it looks like. Thank you – Dennis

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Amigos,we just pulled into Mazatlan yesterday. We made the fastest passage ever across the Sea of Cortez, 34 hours! Must be the dodger! We wouldn’t change a thing.                                                                              Jack, Leanne y el chullo perrito

Two boat owners came over last weekend and checked out the new dodger. Both seemed to love it. If you have any customers with double enders  send’em my way!

Rob and Teresa Sikade, Seattle

Jacques, I have thought of you on many occasions since I got my dodger. I thought to write and tell you how much I appreciate the work you did. I notice it every day. And every time I notice it I think of who I should thank.

Larry Nelson, S/V Panta Rhei

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Hard dodger build/install

I don’t know how some of you people do it. And by “it”, I mean how you manage to get shit done on your boat and take pictures of the process along the way. When I start working on something, I do think to myself, “I should take pictures of each step or each major step as I do this. Then I’ll post in on the web and make the world a better place”

I never do.

What I normally end up doing is taking a beginning photo….then approximately 7/8ths of the way though the project, I take a couple more photos with nothing in between. My current project is a perfect example of this.

Right now I am working on replacing our old worn out canvas dodger with a shiny new hard dodger. Well, top half will be hard. Our current dodger is your average one inch steel tube frame with canvas and vinyl stretched over it. The problem with it is that it is well over 10 years old and absolutely falling apart at the seems. Which is to be expected of 10 year old canvas.

The other problem is, we want to mount two additional solar panels on top of the dodger and that is not really doable on sun rotted canvas. So, we decided to build a hard dodger. At first we thought of building it out of fiberglass. Which turns out to be a bit more work than either one of us really wanted to do.

The other option I came up with was to make it like you would when making a skateboard; using 3 or 4, 4×8 sheets of 1/8th inch birch board and laminating it together with tightbond 3 water proof glue, then cutting it to shape. That was the way I was planning on doing it, until Tawn stumbled across a webpage of a guy that did something very similar using a plastic product called Starboard .

Starboard turned out to be the way we were gonna go. So bought some poster board and taped it together to make one big sheet and laid that over the top of the existing stainless tubing, which is to remain in place and serve as the base/frame for the new hard dodger. I cut the poster board into the shape I wanted to use as a template. I then went to Tap Plastics down on Lake Union and got a 4×8 sheet of 1/2 inch think tan colored Starboard.

Using the poster board template; I simply cut the Starboard to the outlined shape I wanted using a jig saw. The Starboard material can be worked just like wood. I routed the edges to get a nice smooth round edge and did a little light sanding.

To mount the Starboard to the frame, I am using 1inch stainless steel “U” clamps and counter sinking the screws from the top.

The dodger frame is curved, so I lined up and fastened the starboard to the flat portion on top and center of the frame as seen in the picture above.

Using a set of ratcheting tie-down straps from my jeep; a couple heat guns and a infrared heat lamp I was able to get the perfect bend in Starboard. I’m actually very surprised it turned out as well as it has.

And another view

I will be finishing up installing the mounting hardware this weekend. And we are having someone come out to measure and give us a quote on how much it will be to make the bottom window out of canvas and vinyl.

3 Responses to Hard dodger build/install

CB thanks for taking to time to post pictures of the hard dodger install it gave me the confidence to build one myself using your Ideas I used 1/4 inch starboard heating pads and a heat gun to bend the top on a jig in my shop. Instead of canvas sides and windows I used 1/8 inch lexan in place easy to cut with tin snips . Many thanks Gary Nelson

Hey Gary, I’m thinking about building a dodger like this. How has it worked for you so far? How did you attach the Lexan to the top of the dodger and to the deck? Any other tips or tricks you can share would be much appreciated. Cheers. Andy

Thanks for posting the pics of the hard dodger project. We completed our 6 year circumnavigation (Tayana 37 pilot house) in sept 2014 and our fabric cockpit cover, that we had made in Mexico in 2009 is falling apart.

I was chatting about possible vendors for a hard top cover project with Angela at Dockside solutions and she was kind enough to pass along your web site address so I could see how you pulled this off.

It looks like the perfect solution for us. We have a couple of 130 watt solar panels above our cockpit cover.

Our cover is not built like a dodger since we really dont need a window on the front end. Our pilot house takes care of that. Our cover is built on a ss frame that attaches to the stern rail and to our radar arch.

Have you been happy with the 1/2 starboard material?

John s/v Active Transport D37 Shilshole Bay Marina

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Pricing new Dodger & Bimini

• Thread starter Brianstanis
• Start date Nov 19, 2020
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Ask A Hunter Owner

Brianstanis

Hello all, I'm in the process of getting a new dodger & bikini for my 1988 Hunter 33.5. I received a quote between $2200-$3600 for the dodger & $1900-$2800 for the bimini. I already have a dodger frame and just need a new dodge. Will need a new frame for the bimini. The question is, does these quotes seem reasonable to you? I live on the east coast by the way. Brian  

I still am shocked by BOAT (Break Out Another Thousand ) prices! These may be acceptable. The devil is in the details. Will the bimini have a window? Side curtains? Make sure it doesn't interfere with the boom. Dodgers are foreign to me. I imagine that the more window area the better for forward visibility. They probably drive up cost too.  

The options is what's driving up the cost. I'll take pics of the existing old dodger and tell them to quote for a replacement like that. As far as the bimini is concerned, not sure if rail or deck mount makes a big difference but I imagine the rail mount is less expensive. Just wondering if even the beginning price range is reasonable. Brian  

Brianstanis said: Hello all, I'm in the process of getting a new dodger & bikini for my 1988 Hunter 33.5. I received a quote between $2200-$3600 for the dodger & $1900-$2800 for the bimini. I already have a dodger frame and just need a new dodge. Will need a new frame for the bimini. The question is, does these quotes seem reasonable to you? I live on the east coast by the way. Brian Click to expand

In general, those quotes aren't out of line but the devil is in the details.  

This is true. It just seems a bit much for that but I'm starting to believe the price range is within reason. Brian  

• Sailrite machine (with stuff): $1200
• Dodger Kit: $600
• Extra Material & supplies for bimini: $300
• Extra (fancy) snap installer tools, die, and stuff: $300
• Tubes and bending: $700
• Frame fittings: $200

Ralph Johnstone

walmsleyc said: similar things for my wife Shark , Click to expand

That's amazing. If I were to try that mine would look like a cheap patch job. I know my limits and will stick to someone that does that for a living. Good to know the total price is not far off the range I got though. Many thanks.  

When we got a new dodger in 2011 I was told by the builder that a large part of the $3,500 cost was the frame, and he could rebuild all of the soft parts for about $1,000. Now the stitching is breaking down and the canvas is a bit shabby, and we want a different color, so I got 3 quotes for the soft parts, all between $3,500 and $4,200. 2 are from the immediate bay area and 1 from the delta area. It appears that both labor and material costs have escalated.  

Ralph Johnstone said: Did she see this before you posted ? ? ? Click to expand

David in Sandusky

We bought a bimini from the canvas guys on this site, SBO, and a custom awning to my design that ties into the bimini and covers the cabin at anchor or in port. I was very happy when we bought them, and they are still in good shape 15 years later. And their prices are very reasonable. Give them a try, and compare with your current quote.  

Hello Below

walmsleyc said: The reality is that it is the labour that costs you. Click to expand

rgranger said: What does wife Shark even mean? Click to expand

The price for fitting new fabric to an existing frame seems highish. But you want good materials - especially for the windows. As for the bimini, you might like to look at stock bimini's on sites that cater to powerboats. A couple of bows and some polyester cloth will not be $1900 to $2800.  

I've a h326 with metal arch with 2-parts bimini (fro & aft of arch). Does SBO has the h326 Bimini pattern such that they could fabricate one set without me taking dimensions? Anyone any idea? Ken Y  

The bimini should include a cover for when it's closed. My Strataglass window also has a removable cover. The window is needed to watch the Windex. I would want removable panels for the dodger windows as well to protect them from scratches.  

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

6 BOAT bucks. It is all about yours and the crews personal comfort. What is that worth? Pricing the canvas for a dodger as much as a new sail. Feels a bit much.  

Justin_NSA said: I would want removable panels for the dodger windows as well to protect them from scratches. Click to expand

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Sailboat Review: Dufour 41

• By Herb McCormick
• September 17, 2024

When it comes to a discussion of the great European naval architects of contemporary times—and it’s a long list, indeed—certain names immediately pop to mind. Many are French. Philippe Briand made his mark creating boats for a roster of production builders (Baltic, Jeanneau, CNB) before pivoting to the superyacht set (Perini Navi, Royal Huisman). Jean-Marie Finot was more or less the father of an era of the best Vendée Globe solo round-the-world racers ever to compete in that grueling contest. Marc Van Peteghem and Vincent Lauriot Prévost (VPLP Design) are the current masters of offshore multihulls. The talented tandem of Jean Berret and Olivier Racoupeau are ubiquitous as the creators of many French brands, and sit at the forefront of their profession. 

To me, however, one of the more underrated European ­design mavens, and one who definitely belongs in that rarefied grouping, is Umberto Felci. While Felci was born in Milan and still operates from his base in Italy, I’ve always considered him a huge influence in French ­boatbuilding­—largely because of his longtime association with Dufour Yachts, where he’s been the principal designer for some 15 years. 

During that time, I’ve sailed many a Felci boat, as he’s been a consistent presence in Cruising World ’s annual Boat of the Year contest . He has won multiple times with his Dufour entries, including the 560 Grand Large (2014), the 382 Grand Large (2015), and the 520 Grand Large (2018). All of these Grand Large boats shared a similar DNA, and the Dufour booths at the major boat shows were easily ­recognizable for their similar lines and matching beige canvas dodgers and sail covers. The only huge difference across the fleet was their respective sizes.

All that changed in a big way in 2019, after the Fountaine Pajot group acquired Dufour and decided to make each new offering a singular model in form and styling. Which brings us to Felci’s newest design, the Dufour 41. 

Aesthetically, it’s safe to say that the bright-blue Dufour 41 at this past year’s Annapolis Sailboat Show in Maryland was one of the more distinctive-looking yachts on display. It has a rounded bow, ample beam, and not one but two chines, both carried almost the entire length of the boat—one just above the waterline, another just below the reverse sheer line, which is accentuated by prominent molded bulwarks. This boat looks and feels much larger than its 41 feet length overall. Forward, an integrated bowsprit for the ground tackle and the tack point for the asymmetric kite heightens the futuristic vibe. As does the series of three sleek windows in the hull (along with the additional pair of windows overhead in the coachroof). There is not a stick of timber to be found anywhere. 

Topsides, the ­combination of wide side decks and outboard shrouds makes for easy egress when moving forward or aft. The emphasis on “outdoor living” is underscored by a generous cockpit with twin wheels (but, as with all Dufours, a single rudder, which makes backing down easier and with more control). There’s also wraparound seating, including a cushioned daybed, as well as a drop-down transom, which doubles as the porch/platform for the barbecue well aft. All this is revolved around a table—a pretty sweet, comfortable layout that lends the impression of lounging aboard a much bigger boat. 

All the related equipment is first-rate. There’s B&G instrumentation, including the chart plotter and autopilot; a Quick vertical windlass with helm controls for the Delta anchor; and a Side-Power (Sleipner) bow thruster, which I reckon is a luxurious touch on a 41-footer. Our test boat was set up with a nice set of Elvstrøm sails, including a traditional mainsail (an in-mast furling mainsail is available) with a cool stack-pack arrangement that tucks into itself and is secured with shock cords. For our Boat of the Year trials, we test all the emergency rudders, and the one on the 41 was exceptional. 

Construction is straightforward and robust. The hull is vacuum-infused with solid glass below the waterline and a foam core above. There are a pair of molded-in channels for the plumbing and electrical wiring. The plywood bulkheads are laminated to the hull. The keel is cast iron. And, as with every Dufour going back to the company’s origins, a wine rack is stashed under the floorboards. 

Ardizio Design is ­responsible for the belowdecks accoutrements, accommodations and floor plan. Its team used those aforementioned chines and, more specifically, the voluminous interior that the chines created, to wide advantage. As with Dufour’s other models, there are three packages of features, trim and equipment—on the 41, these are labeled Adventure, Ocean and Performance—depending on how the boat will be used (basic sailing, dedicated cruising or racing). With the 41, there are also two interior options: either three or four staterooms. Both have a straight-line galley to starboard, with the dining table and wraparound settee to port.

Our test boat had the three-stateroom layout, with a spacious master forward and a pair of double-berth staterooms aft. It also had three heads, which, to be honest, seems like a bit of overkill on a 41-foot boat. The second head, in the center of the boat, can be replaced with stowage, which is the setup I’d prefer. 

The 41 sports a double-­spreader rig with swept-back spreaders and a self-­tacking jib. The double-ended German-style mainsheet, anchored at midboom, is easily trimmed with a pair of electric winches (an optional electric winch for the mainsail is ­available). There’s no traveler; after all, this is a cruising boat. 

Under power, the 50 hp Volvo Penta with a saildrive configuration had us zipping along at better than 6 knots. This was one of the quieter boats, decibel-wise, in the 2024 fleet. But we were all itching to hoist the sails, and we were not disappointed. At first, in a fitful breeze that was just filling in, we still made over 5 knots in 6 to 8 knots of wind. Soon enough, the pressure built into the 10- to 12-knot range, just in time to hoist the boat’s big asymmetric kite. On a tight reach, we made an effortless 7.5 knots, and the helm was just delightful, with only a light three-finger touch required for full control. 

Those Grand Large prizewinners from years past were, of course, all Felci designs. While this new Dufour looks absolutely nothing like its older siblings, it sails just as well, if not better. Felci may have changed the recipe under the company’s new regime, but he hasn’t forgotten that what we really want is pretty simple: We want to go for a fine sail.

Dufour 41 Specifications

Did You Know?

French boatbuilders were pioneers in fiberglass-sailboat manufacturing. Naval architect/engineer Michel Dufour joined their ranks in 1964 with the launching of the Sylphe, a radical (for its time) 21-foot pocket cruiser with a masthead rig and fin keel with attached ballast bulb. More than 400 were built in a 10-year production run.

Dufour has ramped up its introduction of new models in the past five years, and now has nine in production ranging from 37 to 61 feet, with a 44-footer on tap to be introduced in the United States this fall. Of that collection, the company’s 41, 470 and 530 are all available with electric auxiliary-propulsion options.

Dufour has laid out an aggressive growth strategy, planning to introduce two models each year for the next several years, and replacing its entire fleet within four years. As for the 41, a company representative said that about a third of the run will go to private owners, a third will be purchased by charter operators, and a third will go into charter-management programs.

Herb McCormick is a CW editor-at-large and was a 2024 Boat of the Year judge.

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