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Sailboat Reviews
The Catalina 25
Like most catalinas, the 25 represents good value for the money, but sailing performance and construction quality are average at best..
[Updated December 6, 2018]
The Catalina 25 is not exceptionally fast, stylish, or spacious compared to newer widebody models, and while the construction and workmanship are adequate, they too are not exceptional. But because of the builders strict adherence to a philosophy of offering a relatively spacious design, relatively well made, at a reasonable price, and backing up the product with generally good customer service, the Catalina 25 has turned out to be one of the most successful small cruising sailboats ever built, with 5,332 boats sold between 1976 and 1990, when the company ceased producing the model as demand tailed off.
The Catalina 25 Design
During those 14 years of production, the design went through a complete metamorphosis, starting out as a very simple and inexpensive trailerable swing-keel design, and ending as a relatively sophisticated minicruiser. As vice-president and chief designer Gerry Douglas says, The last boats we built had diesel inboards, hot and cold pressure water systems, and extremely complex electrical systems. They were like little Catalina 34s. It was what people wanted in the late 1980s.
If you consider all model years, you can find Catalina 25s with five different keel configurations: cast iron swing-keel, cast iron fixed keel, cast lead wing keel, cast lead fin keel without glass jacket, and in later boats, a lead keel encased in fiberglass. In the later boats there was a choice of fin keel, wing keel, or swing keel, and standard rig or tall rig. However, the swing-keel model, with a board-up draft of 2′ 8″, accounted for well over half of total production. Most Catalina buyers over the years have been cruisers rather than performance-oriented racers, and for many cruisers, the attractiveness of a boat suitable for shoal waters and trailering is undeniable. Relatively few Catalina buyers are avid racers, it seems. If the hundred or so owners who answered our survey request are an indicator, only a small percentage rate as important either the fin keels much more efficient foil shape and lower turbulence, or the greater light-air efficiency of a two-foot longer tall rig mast that increases sail area by almost 10 percent.
As the design developed over time, features changed enough so that in a number of respects the early boats are very different than 1987 and later model years. As a consequence, its imperative for prospective buyers to know what model year theyre looking at when shopping for used boats. Prices can vary from less than $5,000 to more than $16,000, not only dependent on condition, but also model year and features.
For example, at various times there was a choice of two different interiors: a dinette arrangement, and opposing settees. A flip-top (Catalinas version of the pop-top), which provided standing headroom, was a popular feature that was optional until 1987, at which time it became standard. In fact, in 1987 the entire boat underwent a major design change, yielding among other things a more contemporary deck and a more refined interior, with less teak and more fiberglass.
Performance and Handling of the Catalina 25
The Catalina 25, with a PHRF rating of around 228 for the standard rig or 222 for the tall rig, is not especially fast for its size. In fact, the swing-keel version, which is noticeably slower upwind than the fin-keel version, probably deserves an even higher time allowance than its been given. The fin keel is generally acknowledged to sail close to its rating, at least once the breeze pipes up to 10 knots or so. The swing keel is not as hydrodynamically sleek, and the keel lifting cable is out in the open where it causes extra drag, intensified if seaweed gets hung up on it.
The boat (especially the keel version) balances relatively well, tracks satisfactorily, and is quite maneuverable if sails are properly trimmed; it can be unforgiving if they are not. Several owners com plained to us of a heavy weather helm in a breeze.
The tall rig is a bit more tender than the standard rig, but definitely adds speed in light air. One just reefs a little earlier to maintain helm balance. But despite its virtues, the tall rig has a drawback mentioned by several owners: Unless you have a sailmaker chop off the bottom 12″ of the sail, the boom swings too low over the cockpit. This, however, may be the fault of some sailmakers; the consensus is that Catalina-supplied sails were not as well-made or well-shaped as those obtained from other sailmakers.
Under power, the Catalina 25 will make about 5- 1/2 knots with a 6-hp. outboard, and you can coax an extra 1/2 to 3/4 knot or so out of the boat with an 8- hp. or 9.9-hp. engine. (Theoretical maximum hull speed in ideal conditions is around 6.3 knots.)
The outboard is mounted on a fold-up transom bracket mounted off center to accommodate the outboard rudder. Some owners complained that the motor is difficult to raise and lower. Others observed that, in rough seas, when the boat pitches, an ordinary 20″ shaft outboard prop has a tendency to ventilate, particularly if the auxiliary is used under sail and the boat heels away from the side on which the engine is mounted. The owner consensus is that a 25″ extra long shaft largely solves that problem.
An inboard diesel engine would also solve the problem, but is not recommended; an owner of a 1986 model equipped with a 10-hp. Universal engine reports his boat is very slow under power, at least with the two-blade prop hes currently using. A three-blade prop might help, but would also significantly increase drag under sail.
Another disadvantage of the transom-mounted outboard is that its difficult for the helmsman to control. One owner who told us hed rigged remote engine controls in the cockpit said, Its the best thing weve done.
The boat needs to be reefed in 15 knots of wind (a jiffy reefing main was standard in later boats, though a roller furler for the jib was not). Above 15 knots, weather helm becomes very heavy if the main is left unreefed; one owner observed that she tends to round up in strong winds, or if heeled more than 15 degrees.
A short traveler is integrated into the stern pulpit, and although this works well while cruising, and
permits use of a bimini to protect crew from too much sun, mid-boom sheeting and a mid-cockpit traveler work better for single-handed daysailing and racing. Consequently, many owners have added the inboard traveler, some with a snap-on mainsheet block so they can switch back and forth.
A peculiarity of the design is that the distribution of the boats components evidently caused listing, in some boats to starboard, in others to port. For example, in the 1981 dinette model, owners complained that the dinette, engine, fuel tank, galley, and head were all on the port side, causing the boat to list noticeably to port. Catalina evidently took these complaints to heart, but the results were not totally effective; an owner of a 1982 model complained that batteries, holding tank, and outboard on the starboard side produced a list in that direction.
Other owner responses to our questionnaire included the following:
The absence of a bridge deck is a possible safety hazard when sailing offshore in a big following sea.
Narrow (7″ wide) sidedecks make going forward somewhat difficult. So do the 22″ high stanchions when the boat is heeled, impeding passage forward on the high side; shorter stanchions would help, but wouldnt be as safe.
The lifelines don’t lead to the top of the bow pulpit, but instead run to the deck at the bow to provide a slot for a deck-sweeping genoa. This can make the foredeck area insecure in adverse weather conditions. Bails on the top of the pulpit and pelican hooks on the lifelines would be an improvement, since it would then be possible to raise the lifelines in heavy weather or when a high-clew jib is being used.
Catalina 25 Interior
Compared to other boats available in the 1970s an early 1980s, the Catalina 25 is relatively spacious below, though some readers complained that the aft double is really only a single quarter berth and that the port side settee berth is not long enough for an adult. Newer beamier designs, of course, have the advantage of more elbow room below.
At least one owner improved sleeping accommodations by building a plywood platform which fits between the table on the port side and the settee on the starboard. The aft berth cushion, under the cockpit sole, was shortened slightly to fit on this platform. When in place, the platform results in an athwartships berth about 6′ 4″ long and 5′ 1″ wide, big enough for a double sleeping bag. When not in use, the plywood platform stows on the aft berth.
Light and ventilation below is very adequate, as long as theres a breeze from forward. Because the forward hatch slopes down the forward edge of the cabin trunk, when open it becomes a very effective windscoop. Boats with pop-tops have additional ventilation.
The pop-top was an extra-cost option, and a very popular one. Reader praise of the pop-top is almost universal, with comments from Buyer interest is much higher on boats with pop-tops to Contrary to what some folks say, this pop-top does not leak in the rain or spray. Headroom is 6′ 4″ with the pop-top raised.
Until the 1983 model year, when the company redesigned the icebox so it would, as one owner reported, keep block ice for three days, the icebox was severely under-insulated; many owners reported that it would only hold ice for less than a day. Another complaint was that the icebox drains directly overboard, and as a consequence, if the drain is left open when the boat heels, water enters the icebox. One reader killed two birds with one stone: We keep our trash in the built-in cooler where it is out of sight, and use an Igloo cooler which is bigger and works better.
Construction of the Catalina 25
The Catalina 25 has a full fiberglass hull liner, which makes it easier to keep the boat clean but at the same time can make repairs and adding owner-installed custom components more difficult.
Several owners judged that Florida-built Catalina 25 hulls, though adequate in strength, are not as well finished as the California-built boats. And several others commented on gel coat chipping and cracking, voids, pits, and crazing, particularly in stressed areas such as at sharp changes of direction in the cockpit, and corners of hatch covers, though these problems didnt seem to be a function of builder location.
Bottom blistering seems to have been a fairly common problem on Catalina 25s when an epoxy bottom coat had not been applied under the antifouling paint to prevent water incursion. Catalina now has a 10-year no-blister warranty, but during the era of the Catalina 25, the company had a five-year warranty with gradually diminishing payments during the period. Judging from reader response to our questionnaire, some owners were not entirely satisfied with that arrangement.
In the swing-keel version, Catalina used an ordinary galvanized steel trailer winch to hoist the keel, and although there are no doubt some 20-year-old boats that still have the original winch, many owners have had to repair or replace some or all of it, particularly when the boat is sailed in saltwater.
Another problem with early swing keel models involved breaking the pennant. At the lifting point on the trailing edge of the swing-keel there is a tapped hole on a flat area into which screws a stainless steel eye. A swaged fork fits over the eye and pivots on it as the keel swings up or down. The factory fixed the eye in place with Loctite, but over the years the eye could rotate, so that the clevis pin became parallel to the keel instead of perpendicular to it. Then it would bind, and eventually end up bending and then breaking the wire at the joint of the wire and the swaged fitting. To solve the problem, Catalina came up with a device to keep the eye from rotating, but some older boats may not be retrofitted. Owners and prospective buyers of older boats should examine the swing keel to be sure the eye is solidly fixed in place.
Several owners complained that there is no mechanical lock to stop movement of the swing keel,
which even at anchor can move laterally in its trunk, banging, thumping, and making it, according to one owner, hard to sleep through the night. Catalina offers a retrofit kit to alleviate the problem, composed of nylon or neoprene washers -but according to some owners, this cure is only partially effective.
The surface of the cast iron swing keel was said by some of the performance-oriented owners to be comparatively rough as it came from the factory. They advise filling and sanding fair and smooth for better sailing speed. We would add that the keel should be checked regularly for corrosion, and an epoxy barrier coat should be maintained on the surface to prevent excessive rusting and deterioration.
Deck and cabin hardware, while generally adequate, is considered sub-par by some owners, particularly on the early models. For example, the type of closed-barrel turnbuckles Catalina used are hard to inspect without disassembly, and as a result tend to corrode internally, sometimes freezing or completely failing. Later models have the open-barrel type, which is preferable.
The forward hatch for several model years was attached with self-tapping screws rather than throughbolted, causing the hatch to become loose in some cases. By 1983, bolts had replaced the screws. Other relatively common complaints include rusty screws on deck fittings, broken boom goosenecks, insufficient bow eye backing plates, tillers splitting (on one boat the tiller split twice), and problems with rudders delaminating and splitting along the edge.
A particularly common problem noted is that rudder gudgeons and pintles break or come adrift
from the transom. The repair involves installing a handhole inspection port on the inside of the transom to gain access to the fastening bolts. One reader said his lower pintle had broken under racing conditions, but that he had cured the problem by adding a third pintle and gudgeon halfway between the top and bottom fittings.
Several other readers reported that their boats had loose gudgeon bolts, stress cracks in the transom at the gudgeon attachment points, and transom leaks. One owner reported the transom cracked below the motor bracket because of lack of reinforcement behind the bracket.
The hull-deck joint on some models used selftapping screws rather than through-bolts. Several readers experienced rain and spray leaks along the rail. Portlights also have been a source of leakage problems, as have cockpit scuppers, rudder gudgeons, and various pieces of dealer-installed deck hardware, mostly due, we guess, to inadequate bedding procedures and backup plates.
Trailering the Catalina 25
Despite the fact that a bare Catalina 25 weighs approximately 4,150 lbs., the boat plus trailer, loaded for a weeks cruise, can easily weigh over 6,000 pounds. That means its necessary to tow with a big pickup or van equipped with a towing package, and virtually eliminates prospective trailer-sailors who only have access to an ordinary passenger vehicle, no matter how powerful. (An exception: Big cars built before the advent of downsizing and integral frames. For example, one reader says he pulls his 6,000-lb. rig successfully with a 1973 Olds 98).
The Catalina 25s mast is deck-stepped on a hinge, but several readers complained that no factory method is offered to make mast-raising safer and easier. Still, some owners have devised their own systems, with which they seem to be satisfied. One who made extensive modifications figures it takes him a mere 45 to 60 minutes from the time he pulls into the parking lot at the launching ramp until hes sailing away-and only a little longer than that to reverse the procedure.
One reader pointed out that with the swing keel model the rudder is deeper than the retracted keel (unless its a folding rudder, which Catalina offered as an option in some model years), which can produce problems at the launching ramp under some conditions. Another owner feels that his fin-keel is as easy to ramp-launch as a swing keel, provided an extra-long trailer tongue extension is used. We think that might be true on some ramps, but not on others.
If youre shopping for a Catalina 25 already equipped with a trailer, check the GVWR (Gross
Vehicle Weight Rating) decal before you buy. It indicates the loaded weight of the trailer in pounds, i.e. the sum of the carrying capacity of the trailer plus the weight of the trailer itself. One reader ordered (from a Florida dealer) and paid for a trailer with a 7,000 lb. capacity rating. What he got was one rated for only 5,000 lbs. He was prompted to check the decal because, he says, The trailer looked skimpy. He weighed the combination with the boat stripped and it came to 5,620 lbs. The dealer claimed it was the same trailer they always use for this boat an the dealer passed me off to the Florida plant, who passed me off to the trailer manufacturer, who finally made good after Frank Butler got into the act-after seven months of hassling.
New or unseasoned sailors making their first or second foray into the boat-buying game may find that the Catalina 25 is an attractive choice. The boat is relatively easy to handle, can be single-handed without too much trouble, and while not fast in the racing sense, is fast enough to satisfy many cruisers. The interior is big enough for two to cruise in relative comfort, while the overall size of the boat is not daunting to most newcomers to the sport. Other advantages for new sailors are that Catalina, in most cases, does a good job with customer service, and theres a quarterly 100-page glossy publication for all Catalina owners (from 8′ Sabots to all the way to Catalina 42s) called Mainsheet which offers support and helps to keep communications open between owners.
Asking prices on used Catalina 25s range from around $4,000 for older (late 1970s) models that probably need some work, to around $16,000 for newish (late 1980s) models fully equipped and in like-new condition, probably with an inboard engine and a trailer included. A price of $7,000 to
$8,000 is typical for early to mid-1980s boats, though we noticed a wide range, presumably based on condition and accessories.
Prospective buyers should check for bottom blisters (which can be expensive to repair), evidence of problems around the keel bolts or pivot on the swing keel, rudder connection problems, cracks in turnbuckles or rigging terminals, leaks around windows and hull-deck connection, and other common (and correctable) flaws.
Also check for which of the many extra-cost options have been installed-options which many experienced sailors would say should have been standard: boom vang, genoa winches, pop-top with canvas enclosure (originally two separate options), basic electrical system with running lights and cabin lights, galley equipment, head, lifelines and stanchions, and sails. Check especially the brand of sails; many readers report that they have been dissatisfied with Catalinas own brand of sails.
Overall, we think the Catalina 25 is not fancy or fast, but is economical, a fair sailer, and roomy for its size-a good boat for non-racers who don’t have a big budget and for relatively new sailors who want to get their feet wet in the sport.
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12 comments.
Mr Nicholson,
Thank you for the report on the Catalina “25” I’ve Been searching for an older (less expensive) under 30’ single handed sailboat for the past several months and finally today someone posted a Catalina 25’ on buy, sell, or trade in the Destin Florida area. The elder gentleman wanted to restore it but a bad hip has preventing that, so he sold it to me. I started sailing about 20 years ago with a Balboa 27’ with a swing keel (what a life saver). Lost it in the divorce. There are many sand banks and shoals here in Choctawhatchee Bay and a swing keel is what a newbie needs. I don’t think this Catalina has a swing keel, at least I don’t see the crank in the cabin. The ships dimensions in your report help immensely. I have not done an inventory yet on board (they left a lot of stuff) I hoping the main is useable and I have already inspected and cleaned the storm jib, I don’t see a Genoa (Bimini) or any other jib sail hidden away. Anyways, thanks for your report I look forward to getting it under sail.
We’ve had a 1985 Catalina 25 swing keel since 2006. I’ve sailed a lot of different boats over more than fifty years. This boat has been a good investment for fun and reliability. I’ve never reefed in the near fifteen years sailing it on the Monterey Bay. We’ve burried the rails on more than one occasion and while it does weather helm in heavy winds, it’s easily managed and I’ve never been worried about a knockdown.
Have 1985 Catalina 25 swing keel, #K4978. I don’t know if it’s the standard or tall rig. Can I tell from the HIN#?
i am new owner of a 25ft 1981 catalina and i need 1 simple measurement .. height of wing keel from the bottom of keel to the bottom of the boat as i am building a trailer to get it home with..
sorry fin keel
I am looking to buy a fixed keel Catalina 25. The keel seems short ar 4 ft when I would have expected 5 ft for a boat this size. My question is does this make the boat more tender with ballast less lower in the keel. And how does this affect performance say against the swing keel model
Did you get to sail ‘er this summer? We have a 1980 fin keel and as long as your co-captain doesn’t mind 10 to 15 degree heel, you’re not afraid to reef the main in a blow and you’re not sailing in a hurricane, you’ll find that 4 feet of keel is plenty.
Hi Peter, We’ve had our 1986 C25 SR SK for four years now. Our mooring mates have an 81 TR FK and we oftentimes run them together. While the Tall Rig makes theirs a little tender, proper trim seems to mitigate most puffs. As for our Swing Keel, typically deployed fully, we notice we cannot point as high but routinely we are keeping up around 6kts. I do notice in the SK, with the other owners aboard, that we have gain positive comments for our sails so I guess that is where you have a tough time making scientific comparisons, lots of variables. We have an even less fair comparison, a C25 Capri who has newer nicer sails and a seasoned skipper who wins most regattas and that fin easily allows him to point with a larger sail plan. The more I write, the less I think this will help you; however, for a swing keel, we’re plenty happy from a non-competitive perspective and don’t have envy/regrets when looking on those with fixed.
We have a Catalina 25 from 1983. We are in a humid area. We love the boat! Our son wants to add an air conditioner of some form to make it more tolerable to sleep on hot nights. I do not want to overwhelm the interior where I sit at the table to prepare meals and do artwork. What suggestions might you have for our situation? Thank you!
Pardon it is an 89 not an 83 Catalina !
I have a 1985 22ft and the cable for the keel broke can this be loaded onto a trailer?
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My Class, My Story: Capri 25
By Ben Towery
Updated: January 29, 2019
My dad was a perpetual boat shopper. Never a buyer. The local J boat dealers were always patient though. They’d regularly take my family sailing on their J/24s at reservoirs around New Mexico. I was 8 years old when he first shared his love of sailing with me, but my own infatuation with the sport came from watching the 1987 America’s Cup in Fremantle, Australia, on TV late into the night.
By the time I was a senior in high school, I was sailing a lot, traveling to the Dillon Open, first with a J/24 team and then with a J/80. We trailered the J/80 to Key West, Florida, in 1999, and that same year, I raced with friends at the San Diego NOOD on their Ultimate 20. Soon after, I moved to San Diego, got a job as a sailmaker and raced Lasers, Capri 14s and J/105s. College sailing followed, as did a few offshore races, such as the Pac Cup, from San Francisco to Hawaii. Countless races to Mexico and stints on boats big and small gave me a steady diet of races. My last major regatta of those heady days was the San Diego NOOD in 2007, on board a Beneteau 36.7 called Kea .
That was before a “real” job landed me in Utah, where I started sailing with yacht clubs on Bear Lake and Great Salt Lake. It was fun, but being away from the ocean, my interest waned. I traded race boats for bicycles, but kept in touch with my sailing friends around the country.
Sailing kept calling to me while I was coping with major life changes. I finally answered in 2016, literally, when a call came from a cycling friend who owns a daysailer. He mentioned he wanted to get back into racing boats as well. We dived in, spending the entire spring tuning up the boat. At the same time, I joined the Park City Sailing Association and chartered one of its Elliot 6-Meters for Thursday-night racing.
Eventually, a 1985-vintage Capri 25 named Little Wing came into my life. It was showing its age, which you’d expect of a 30-year-old fiberglass boat, but it was everything I wanted: a sleek 1980s design, a decent interior and a wide deck. It had a few new bits and pieces, some cracks and fading paint, but nothing my elbow grease wouldn’t take care of. The Capri 25 came with a pedigree as a great club racer here in the Intermountain West, but most important, it had a spirit, that of a sailboat ready for more adventures.
After more than 30 years in the sport, I was captain of my own ship.
I’m lucky to have found such a solid little craft. I wasn’t keen on the name initially, but the boat spoke to me and told me its name was indeed Little Wing . It’s now my prize possession, and it’s amazing how a grown man like me can be so obsessed with 25 feet of fiberglass, wood and lead.
The boat is 33 years old, remember, so the work list was long. I first overhauled the trailer and then tackled Little Wing ‘s bottom with hours upon hours of sandpaper and epoxy. My major projects included replacing a bulkhead, painting the deck and rearranging a few pieces of hardware, but my appreciation for Little Wing grew deeper with every tattered piece of sandpaper, empty tube of goo and quart of paint.
Our first race with the boat was Father’s Day weekend at Bear Lake, a 109-square-mile oval-shaped stretch of fresh water on the Utah-Idaho border. My dad was visiting from Albuquerque, New Mexico, and my buddy brought his daughter along for the race. Even in adulthood, I try to impress my dad and make him proud. Racing this day proved no different. He was a bit rusty on account of not having raced in many years, so I guided him through spinnaker jibes and sail changes.
With the roles of our youth reversed, the dynamic on board Little Wing was far more relaxed and fun than the early days. There was no frustration or impatience, just old-man jokes and a few bumps and bruises along the way. Every maneuver was an opportunity to connect with him in a way that was completely different from when I was the one learning to sail as a kid.
Thankfully, my dad was impressed with Little Wing and what I’d been able to accomplish with it. Our new racing sails weren’t on the boat for that first outing. On account of it being our first true race, we were plenty rusty and finished dead last.
It didn’t matter. That day with Dad was perfect anyway.
The summer sailing season continued, with excursions and overnights with my family and booze cruises with friends who’d never sailed. They regularly reminded me how the daysails were the most fun they’d had all summer.
We improved our racing results each weekend and eventually took Little Wing on the road, to Flathead Lake for the Montana Cup. We later wrapped up our first season in the best way I could ever imagine: the annual Bear Lake Monster Race, a 22-mile lap of the lake. As the slowest boat in A fleet, we did our best to keep our air clean and sail the boat fast. At about the halfway point, we figured we were winning, beating the seven other larger and faster boats on corrected time.
The fleet inverted, however, when a new wind filled in along the western shoreline, springing the other boats ahead of us. The wind shift was so agonizingly close; there were whitecaps 500 yards away that we just could not reach. Off they went with the new breeze, leaving us in their wakes.
The Monster Race perpetual trophy sat on my shelf, engraved with Little Wing ’s name, reminding me each day what this boat means to me and all who sail it.
Once we finally got to the new wind, it was gusting 20 knots and higher. No one else was flying a spinnaker, so what the heck, if we were to have a shot at getting back in the race we had to push ourselves. We popped our spinnaker, it snapped full and Little Wing surged onto a sleigh ride to the bottom mark. We turned the corner within striking distance, and with our heavyweight crew, we were able to keep the boat flat and the heavy No. 1 flying. At one point, I could see my 30-year-old genoa literally coming apart at the seams. I wondered whether the sail would endure the five or so tacks we needed to make the finish line.
The straining genoa got us there, and by our rough calculations, we were close on corrected time, but unsure of the outcome. Once at the dock, we anxiously made our way to the race committee. They calculated everyone’s times, and finally the suspense was over — we won. We whooped and hollered, and I’m sure the entire marina heard us celebrating. There were high-fives, hugs, pats on the back and smiles ear to ear, rewards for all our efforts. We headed for the nearest burger joint and cracked open our celebratory beers, toasting as though we’d won the America’s Cup.
This was a hard-earned win against fast boats and great sailors. Until this summer, the Monster Race perpetual trophy sat on my shelf, engraved with Little Wing ‘s name, reminding me each day what this boat means to me and all who sail it. And while my purchase was based on many factors, the potential for one-design racing was a big part of it. There are now five Capri 25s in Utah, with passionate owners who share knowledge and keep these cool little boats alive and sailing fast. We’ve proved to ourselves that having fun and being successful is possible in older boats, and that even in the middle of the Mountain West, sailing is where the excitement is found.
Ben Towery, of Ogden, Utah, splits his free time between family, sailing, swimming, cycling, skiing and pampering his Capri 25. He was unable to defend his Monster Race title in 2018. “Little Wing is definitely in her element in light air,” he says. “But we have yet to figure out how to handle her in heavy breeze.”
More: My Class, My Story , Sailboat Racing , Sailboats
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20-08-2012, 12:43
.
My short list includes the 25, Merit 25, Holder 20 and santana 20 I'm straying from the holder and Santana as their cabins might be a bit too small
The merit has been found to be a good (3 have done the solo transpac)
Any thoughts on the ? Earlier the J-24 had been on my list until I was advised against it from some stories of j-24's getting knocked down and sinking.
My idea's would be for daysail on Lake Michigan and some cruises up and down the coast, lake crossings, and possibly eventually the chicago -mac handed.
Thanks
Smo
20-08-2012, 14:16
Boat: 1970 C&C 30 Redwing
to learn handed sailing. I started sailing keelboat on a Tanzer 7.5 and loved it. Small enough to handle by myself and large enough to take some punishment on Lake Michigan.
What kind of experience do you have>
I am in South Have, where are you?
20-08-2012, 16:50
Boat: Now boatless :-(
mentioned I would go for the merit 25 followed by the capri.
The 20 footers don't look like comfortable to sail. Just like the J24 with basically zero backrest in the .
The Merit looks very much like my boat which is a comfortable and fun weekender. Not near as speedy as the lighter "racing" boats but a heck of a lot more comfortable.
I have also sailed the Capri several times. I am not a huge fan but it is a decent boat to sail. <--- Click
20-08-2012, 17:39
.
20-08-2012, 17:54
Boat: Seaward 22
course wednesday nights. I don't really consider them cruisers. However I would go Merit, then capri. The capri 26 is significantly larger than the 25. I would put the capri 26 above both the merit and capri 25.
I have a friend with a Holder 20. Great little boat to , but he says it is a real handful when the pipes up. Just not enough weight.
Fair winds.
20-08-2012, 18:00
Boat: 14 meter sloop
end of the racer/cruiser , as is the Merit. If you're not interested in , you'll be far better off with a 27, especially when considered on a dollar-for-dollar basis. Likewise, rather than a Santana 20, look at a Santana 22. A lot more boat for no more .
20-08-2012, 18:04
Boat: Tartan 30
model with good performance.
I'd definitely keep the Merit at the top of the list. Also might even consider an Ohlson 25 or even a 27. slightly bigger, but much faster, and if you're not trailering it, the size difference won't be a problem.
20-08-2012, 18:07
Boat: Seaward 22
end of the racer/cruiser , as is the Merit. If you're not interested in , you'll be far better off with a 27, especially when considered on a dollar-for-dollar basis. Likewise, rather than a Santana 20, look at a Santana 22. A lot more boat for no more .
20-08-2012, 18:25
- Elmore Leonard
06-11-2015, 08:27
as it is very light. I know they race these from SF to , but I couldn't imagine that run...
I am now looking to buy a Capri 25. Like it a lot, it seems to have a bit more room below which for me is better as I don't like tight spaces.
Good luck if you still haven't made the decision...
, ,
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Sailboat Guide
Catalina Capri 25
Catalina Capri 25 is a 24 ′ 6 ″ / 7.5 m monohull sailboat built by Catalina Yachts between 1980 and 1986.
2 / 125 Kerr Lake, Henderson, NC, US 1986 Catalina Capri 25 $13,000 USD View
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
Sail Area / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3
SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
D : Displacement in pounds.
Ballast / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
Displacement / Length Ratio
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
LWL: Waterline length in feet
Comfort Ratio
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )
D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
LOA: Length overall in feet
Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet
Capsize Screening Formula
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
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Which Sailboat?
Catalina 25 Review
The Catalina 25 is a good racer/cruiser for inland and coastal waters available on the used market at very affordable prices. This sailboat benefits from a large user base, active owner’s forum, and easy availability of spare parts.
Designed by Frank Butler of Catalina Yachts in Hollywood, CA, over 6,000 Catalina 25s were built from 1976 through 1990, and all in the U.S. She is designed as an inland and coastal racer/cruiser within budgetary reach of any American. She is well suited to her purpose in terms of design and build quality although some owners have sailed their Catalina 25s through the Caribbean ( like this fellow ), to South America, and even to Hawaii. The Catalina 25 was one of the most successful and longest running production boats ever built, and continues to have a strong following and interest. The standard rig with swing keel configuration is the most popular.
The Catalina 25 has a huge user base, a very active owners’ association with racing, and a plethora of information available about maintenance on their forum (located here ). Unlike many builders of used sailboats on the market today, Catalina has remained in business and continues to manufacture and source parts for the Catalina 25. Catalina owners benefit from Catalina Direct , which makes buying many Catalina 25 specific parts very convenient. As an aside, note that Catalina Direct is a dealer for Catalina Yachts and is not run by Catalina, the manufacturer. Many owners of the Catalina 25 report that the plethora of information available on their very active owners forum and the multitude of users eager to help, that the manufacturer was still in business, and that spare parts were readily available, were key points influencing their decision to purchase a used Catalina 25.
The Catalina 25 is a masthead sloop with a modern but conservative design, resulting in a boat that continues to have a relatively modern appearance. She has a modern canoe underbody and broad transom. With a waterline length of 22’2”, her length on deck to waterline ratio is equally modern. Other design elements include a traditional sheer line, a slightly raked bow, a plumb stem with stern hung rudder, and the standard well-known Catalina cabin trunk and port configuration. Like other Catalina sailboats built during this time, the earlier aluminum trimmed salon ports were later updated to smoked plexiglass.
CONSTRUCTION
Construction quality is good for the Catalina 25’s intended purpose as a racer/cruiser in protected and coastal waters. The hull is constructed of solid fiberglass and the deck is wood cored. No reports of oil-canning, hull flexing, or other structural problems exist for the Catalina 25. The deck is joined to the hull by a shoebox-type flange, sealed with polyester putty, and mechanically connected with self-tapping screws or through-bolts. The interior is a liner set into the boat before the deck is installed, which is a standard for Catalina and other production builders in the industry. Although liners reduce access to the inside of the hull, Catalina 25 owners report it is of little consequence on a boat this size as most areas can be accessed by some angle or another.
Minor blistering was an issue on some earlier Catalina 25s, but not all. Due to the long production run and improvement of fiberglass technology during this time, blistering issues were reduced in each successive year, and were nearly non-existent by the end of the run. A 1987 Catalina 25 hauled after years of neglect and very few blisters were present. Despite the wood coring, soft decks are not a common problem on Catalina 25s. Catalina 25s rarely have core rot after years of neglect.
The mast is deck stepped on a stainless steel tabernacle with a keel-stepped wooden compression post. The tabernacle allows the mast to be raised and lowered, which owners report takes about five minutes after learning how. The mast has one set of spreaders and is supported by three sets of shrouds, two sets of lowers and one set of uppers. Catalina 25s were rigged with high quality stainless steel. Jib car tracks are outboard, but due to the relatively narrow side decks, this likely does not compromise sheeting angles significantly and makes going forward easier.
Catalina offered some variation in rigging. A standard rig and a tall rig were offered. To provide increased sail area, the tall rig mast is approximately two feet taller than the standard and the boom is attached to the mast approximately one foot lower than the standard. Some Catalina 25s came from the factory with internal halyards while others are external. Some came with an adjustable backstay while others did not. Some lacked a boom vang. All came with hank on foresails although many owners have retrofitted roller-furling systems. Early Catalina 25s appear to have lacked backing plates for deck hardware while later boats came from the factory with backing plates installed. Either way, most owners of earlier Catalina 25s have installed backing plates where they were lacking. All running and standing rigging components continue to be available from Catalina Direct.
The Catalina 25 came in three keel configurations, initially a swing or fin keel, and later a shoal draft wing keel that replaced the swing keel model. The keel bolts on the fin keel were not originally stainless steel and were prone to rusting, but stainless steel was used in later models.
The fin is a relatively modern fin type design, deep but not too long, drawing 4’, connected to the hull by five bolts, and providing a very respectable ballast-to-displacement ratio of 41%. Although not as short or deep (high aspect) as more modern designs, the longer design (lower aspect) permits a stronger connection to the hull that better withstands groundings and other stresses unlike more aggressive high aspect designs.
The fin keel was originally cast iron, but in the early 1980s the design was improved so that the core of the fin was cast iron, which was then encased in lead, and then encased in fiberglass. Earlier boats with cast iron keels should have protective anodes installed if not already done. Many owners have encased their cast iron keels in barrier paints to stave off rust, which efforts appear to be largely successful.
The wing keel is roughly as long as the fin, but reduces draft to 2’10” and gives a very respectable ballast-to-displacement ratio of 40%. Fin-to-wing keel conversion kits are no longer manufactured but continue to be available on occasion. Some stiffness is lost when converting to a wing keel.
The swing keel model deserves a separate discussion. Ballasted swing keels have been relatively rare designs, especially as their contribution to the overall ballast of the boat increases. However, a dedicated following for ballasted swing keel performance cruisers continues to enjoy the boats built by Southerly Yachts in England for the premium blue-water boat market. Also, Jeanneau Shipyard in France has just launched a ballasted swing keel in their Sun Odyssey line which may indicate a return in interest to the advantages of a ballasted swing keel boat.
On the Catalina 25, the swing keel is cast iron, and pivots from a down position to an aft-and-up position on a 1” diameter cast bronze rod hung between stout cast bronze hangers mounted to the underside of the hull. When down, the keel provides a 5’ draft, which is deep for a boat of this size. The keel weighs three quarters of a ton and serves as all of the ballast for the boat, giving these models a modern ballast ratio of 36%. The heavy weight of the keel prevents many of the annoying banging noises associated with unballasted swing keels. The keel can be raised by way of a simple and reliable manual winch system located below the companionway steps. Little effort is required to operate the winch. When the keel is fully raised to its horizontal position, the Catalina 25 has a draft of only 2’8”, which is of course handy for gunkholing or if the water gets shallow when exploring. In the event of a grounding, the keel gently swings back and away rather than getting damaged or causing damage to the hull as can happen with fixed keels.
When the swing keel on the Catalina 25 is fully lowered, the keel orientation is high aspect and has a symmetrical foil shape, similar to modern race boats, so that the boat points to weather extremely well and tacks on a dime. When completely raised, only a small part of the keel is enveloped in the hull, with the rest protruding. So therefore when the keel is fully raised, the keel orientation is very low aspect, essentially a full keel configuration, enabling the boat to track well with little helm attention, even when sailing downwind.
Catalina recommends that Catalina 25 swing keel hardware be inspected every two years if in a salt water environment, and allows for longer if in fresh water. However, some owners in fresh water environments report never inspecting their swing keels after thirty years of use and have no problems. Catalina also recommended a retrofit be performed on earlier Catalina 25s to reduce the side-to-side movement of the keel along the pin, which could cause the keel to wear through the pin. If not already done, owners should perform or have this retrofit performed and a kit is available from Catalina Direct. Despite the swing keels being cast iron, Catalina did not typically install a sacrificial anode on Catalina 25s at the factory. Catalina 25s should have a sacrificial anode installed, especially if in salt water, although owners of fresh water boats without sacrificial anodes have reported little corrosion. Sacrificial anode kits, including the drill bit necessary to go through the cast iron, are available from Catalina Direct.
Interestingly, the swing keels themselves were cast in Mexico and shipped to Catalina. Some keels have the word “MEXICO” cast into their side, which is not usually apparent if the keel has been faired.
The Catalina 25 came with a transom hung unbalanced spade rudder. The rudder draws 2’10” so that it is somewhat protected by the keel, even the swing keel when raised fully. The unbalanced rudder can require some effort if sail trim is not correct, or when racing or in rough weather. Some Catalina 25 owners have upgraded to a balanced rudder, which they report enables steering with just one finger. Balanced rudders are available from Catalina Direct.
SAILING CHARACTERISTICS
All three keel configurations sail well on any point of sail and owners consistently refer to the boat as “forgiving”. Catalina 25 owners disagree as to whether the fin keel or the swing keel point to weather better. Racing ratings indicate that the fin is the best performer with the swing keel close behind. The masthead sloop configuration means a headsail is required for best performance. With both the approximately 16:1 sail-area-to-displacement ratio of the standard rig and the approximately 17.75:1 ratio of the tall rig, in either configuration the Catalina 25 easily achieves hull speed in anything but the lightest of airs. The relatively flat canoe body and beam carried aft cause Catalina 25s to have good initial stability. The 36-41% ballast-to-displacement ratios mean Catalina 25s are stiff, and if knocked down, quickly right themselves. The swing keel configuration is the stiffest, followed by the fin keel, and then the wing keel. Many Catalina 25 owners report preferring to reef when winds reach above 15 knots. The original mainsail provided by Catalina is a little baggier, even when new, than many sailors would prefer. This was reportedly done intentionally by Catalina to improve Catalina 25 downwind performance to the slight detriment of windward performance.
AUXILIARY POWER
Most Catalina 25s are powered by an outboard motor on an adjustable mount. Most Catalina 25 owners prefer a motor close to 10hp, which easily drives the boat at hull speed, even in rough conditions. Some owners report 6hp is sufficient in calm waters. A long shaft outboard with a shaft length of at least 25″ is preferred to keep the prop in the water in rough conditions. Roughly 150 Catalina 25s were delivered from the factory with an inboard diesel, which was located behind the companionway steps beneath the cockpit sole. Engine access for the inboards is expectedly cramped, but decent from the quarter berth and the companionway steps. A few Catalina 25s appear to have factory-installed sail drives, or perhaps undocumented refits to sail drives by previous owners. Catalina 25 owners who are active in racing prefer the outboard motor because the increase in PHRF rating, which is not always given by a race committee, is not typically enough to offset the drag caused by the inboard’s prop. Outboard motor mount kits for owners upgrading 2 stroke motors to heavier 4 stroke motors are available from Catalina Direct.
The Catalina 25 was partially marketed as a trailer-sailer. All three keel configurations have been pulled on trailers regularly by their owners, but the swing keel model is by far most popular for trailering. However most Catalina 25 owners do not report trailering their boats with great frequency, likely due to the boat’s weight requiring a substantial tow vehicle and dual-axle trailer. Some owners report their total trailering weight to approach 8,000 lbs, considering the weight of the boat itself, the trailer, and the equipment, gear, and supplies stowed on the boat. In addition, stepping the mast is more complicated than a day sailer, requiring the use of a special rig to handle the large mast, which is available from Catalina Direct or can be built at home by an owner with designs available on the Catalina 25 forum. (For a more trailerable Catalina, see the Catalina 22 .)
A pop-up cabin top was an option on early models and later became standard. The pop-top is another interesting Catalina 25 feature that deserves its own discussion. The pop-top raises head room in the salon to 6’4″, improves ventilation mightily, and enables a 360 degree view of the outside of the boat while standing below. The Catalina 25 can be sailed with the pop-top up, but only in light airs because it requires disconnection of the boom vang. Some Catalina 25 owners report raising the pop-top partially so that they have standing head room below but have protection from rain. An optional pop-top tent allowed the pop-top to remain up while keeping the salon protected from the elements. However, the pop-top does introduce an element of risk if the boat were turtled, but a boat designed for inland and coastal waters is not likely to see conditions that would cause turtling. If one intended to take the boat beyond coastal cruising, a model without a pop-top may be preferable.
Fit and finish of the Catalina 25 is not luxurious but is better than expected at this price-point. Wood trim is solid teak and bulkheads are teak-veneered marine grade plywood. Accommodations are typical but very good for a boat of this size due to its moderate freeboard and beam carried well aft. The original Catalina 25 marketing materials indicate the boat sleeps five, although one owner reported regularly sleeping with his wife and five children on the boat, as well as two guests on one occasion. The accommodations should be acceptable for any average-sized couple or typical family.
The Catalina 25 cabin sole is the pan liner and has a respectable wood-like look modeled into it, patterned after a teak and holly sole. The settee and berth cushions are 3” foam, which some owners have upgraded to 4”. The original cushion covers vary from the what would now be considered hideous, patterns of the late 1970s and early 1980s, to the more acceptable patterns of the late 1980s and 1990s. The ceilings have an unobtrusive pattern molded into the fiberglass. No pattern is molded into the sides of the hull.
All lights installed in Catalina 25 by the factory were an inexpensive grade product designed for the RV industry rather than marine use. Many of these lights are still in use on Catalina 25s, but many owners have replaced these lights with marine grade equipment, in part because their domes were prone to crack and because replacement domes are no longer available. Several options for direct fit Catalina 25 replacements are available from Catalina Direct.
Forward is the v-berth, which has the typical central insert so that either more maneuvering room or more bed space can be had. This berth can sleep two average-height adults. One Catalina 25 owner reports having three children sleep here comfortably. Catalina installed one light on the port side. Fresh air is provided by the large opening hatch, which can be tightened in place partially opened to enable air flow but prevent young children from wandering about on deck unsupervised. Additional natural light is provided by a port light just aft of the anchor locker. A huge space beneath the v-berth is accessible from hatches beneath the cushions and in some boats, a door in the bulkhead supporting the aft end of the berths. Some boats also came with a shelf in the bulkhead supporting the port side of the v-berth. Many Catalina 25 owners use the space below the v-berth for storage or additional systems or tanks.
Immediately aft of the v-berth is the head. Some Catalina 25s came from the factory with an accordion door fitted between the v-berth and the head. Other Catalina 25s have been retrofitted with this additional privacy feature by owners. The head does not afford standing room but is comfortable for sitting so that a shower is not a good upgrade (although some owners install cockpit showers).
Catalina 25 heads came in varied configurations, with a portable toilet or real marine head to port, and a sink or locker to starboard. There is a platform on which both toilets would sit, which elevates a portable toilet to a comfortable height and enables easy access to the plumbing of a marine toilet, making maintenance of the marine toilet or conversion from a portable to a marine toilet straightforward. Most Catalina 25s had a large deep shelf along the inside of the port side of the hull behind the toilet and some had hanging storage above the shelf. If the sink was fitted, Catalina installed a light, a Whale flipper-type faucet for cold water only, an opening cabinet below the sink, and typically a shelf above the sink along the inside of the starboard hull.
Thankfully, Catalina changed the port lights on each side of the head to a version that opens, both of which are fitted with bug screens. Catalina 25 owners report that with the v-berth hatch and both ports open, there is excellent ventilation when performing necessary business. Owners also report that due to the angle at which the port and starboard ports are situated, water can collect in them. Although leaking is not typically an issue and replacement gaskets are readily available from Catalina Direct, water can splash down into the head if these ports are opened after a recent rain. Parts for the plumbing and marine toilet are available from Catalina Direct, including everything needed to install a marine toilet with holding tank in a Catalina 25 previously without one.
Aft of the head is the main salon, if a Catalina 25 could be said to have a main salon. Almost all Catalina 25s came from the factory with an accordion door fitted between the head and the salon. There is standing headroom in the salon for below average-height adults, and for anyone shorter than 6’4” on pop-top models with the pop-top raised. Newer Catalina 25s had the cabin sole lowered a few inches, increasing headroom.
The salon area came in three configurations, one traditional-type with a settee to port and starboard and a fold-down drop-leaf table, and the two other dinette-type configurations with a dinette to port and a settee to starboard. All three interior configurations have a galley area in the aft and port corner of the salon. All three configurations have a starboard settee running the full length of the salon with a shelf built into the side of the hull behind the back of the settee, which is long enough to double as a berth for an average sized adult. The fresh water tank is located forward beneath this settee and the dual battery box is located beneath the aft end.
On the traditional layout model, the port settee and shelf behind built into the hull are a little shorter than the starboard settee, to enable space for the galley area. This settee can double as a berth for a child, teen, or person of below average height. The drop-leaf table can mount to the forward bulkhead when not in use, freeing up space in the salon. Many Catalina 25 owners report leaving the table down but with the leaf closed which enables passage fore and aft on the starboard side of the salon while leaving a convenient table for one or two on the port side. Owners also report that a Catalina 25 specific retrofit offered by Catalina Direct is required to keep the table from tipping over when used in this manner.
There is a difference amongst the dinette models in that some had the older fore-and-aft seating arrangement while others had a more modern L-shaped arrangement. In both cases the table lowered to create an additional berth. Both the more traditional dinette and L-shaped configuration also benefited from having a shelf built into the inside of the port hull like with the traditional interior layout.
In all configurations, the black water holding tank is located beneath the port settee or dinette seat. Catalina typically installed one light above each shelf along the hull. Some Catalina 25 owners have cut holes into the backs of the settees to create additional storage space. Swing keel models with the traditional layout have a narrow wooden box about one foot long at the fore end of the salon which houses the keel trunk, and which most owners report using as a coffee table. In swing keel models with the dinette interior, the keel trunk is concealed beneath the forward dinette seat. There are bilge access hatches in the cabin sole.
The Catalina 25 galley area has slightly more head room than the rest of the salon due to the cabin sole being lower there than elsewhere so that an average height male can nearly stand up. Catalina 25s came from the factory with a two burner pressurized alcohol stove dubbed by owner’s as the “curtain burner”. Most alcohol stoves have been replaced with a newer and safer appliance. The space allotted for the stove is outboard to port and large enough to support a gimbaled multi-burner range and oven, or a medium sized microwave oven. Aft of that space is the ice box, roughly 5 gallons in size, and which can keep a 10lb bag of ice for two days. Some Catalina 25 owners have upgraded the insulation around the icebox or installed refrigeration kits. Inboard of the icebox is a single sink. On all Catalina 25s, the factory installed a light above the ice box, and Whale flipper type faucets for cold water only. Some owners have upgraded to pressurized and hot and cold water. Replacement parts for galley equipment and all interior plumbing are available from Catalina Direct.
Aft of the sink on the bulkhead is the fuse panel, switches, and battery selector. Accessing the wiring to this panel is relatively easy through the lazarette. Some Catalina 25s were equipped with shore power from the factory, and if so, the alternating current switch is typically located here as well. Shore power is another popular upgrade by Catalina 25 owners, with kits available from Catalina Direct. Replacement electrical components are available from Catalina Direct.
Aft of the starboard settee is the quarter berth. This berth is long enough to sleep even the tallest adult. If the boat is equipped with an outboard, then there is extra space to stretch out where the inboard motor would otherwise be located. Many Catalina 25 owners use this space for storing long items, such as boat hooks, spinnaker poles, tents, etc. At the aft end of the quarter berth is a self built into the transom. There is also a transom inspection port near there. Catalina installed a light above the forward end of the quarter berth.
VENTILATION
Ventilation is extremely good on the Catalina 25 due to the already discussed opening hatch and ports, and is especially good with the pop-top cabin models. However, even owners without the pop-top models report being able to sleep in comfort, even in warm climates, by using a Windscoop in the hatch in the v-berth, or by running a box fan in the hatch in the v-berth, both of which can funnel air through the entire boat. Some Catalina 25 owners report an additional box fan is necessary in the hatch way to improve the funnel effect, especially in the aft quarter berth. Other owners have installed marine air conditioning, while others have installed simple inexpensive household window air conditioners in the bulkhead between the aft quarter berth and the lazarette – they open the lazarette when running this setup in order to circulate air to the air conditioner, and the air conditioner’s condenser simply drips into the lazarette and into the bilge. Many Catalina 25 owners have installed solar-powered ventilation fans in the v-berth hatch or in the head to ventilate the boat when not in use.
Up the four steps from the salon through the large companionway is the Catalina 25 cockpit. For an inshore boat, the large companionway is nice. The relatively large companionway makes it possible for someone to stand in the salon and be connected to the goings on in the cockpit, and provides additional light and ventilation to the salon. At the base of the companionway is a respectably sized bridge deck to prevent down flooding into the salon. Catalina 25 owners report that the rake of the companionway can enable rainwater to leak onto the companionway steps and the salon sole. Many have canvas or other covers over the hatch boards when away from their boats or during rain.
The cockpit of the Catalina 25 is large for a boat this size. Six can sit comfortably in the cockpit and eight can squeeze in. The benches are comfortably broad with decent backrest coamings. The coamings are wide enough to install additional cleats and winches, cup-holders, and bimini covers or cockpit awnings. A bimini kit specific to the Catalina 25 is available from Catalina Direct. Many Catalina 25s came from the factory with open cubbies installed in the coamings and many owners have installed cockpit stereo speakers. A retrofit is available from Catalina Direct for Catalina 25s without these cubbies. The benches are long and wide enough for an adult to sleep comfortably under the stars. The rake of the cabin trunk at the forward end of the benches makes for a comfortable backrest when lounging. Cockpit cushions are available from Catalina Direct as well as other suppliers.
For safety, the Catalina 25 cockpit is self-bailing. Early models had the scupper drains in a horizontal position in the cockpit sole, which as in other boats were prone to clogging with leaves and other debris. Later Catalina 25s were updated with drains oriented vertically in the transom at the level of the cockpit sole, which do not clog. A stainless steel rail surrounds the cockpit. Lifelines extend forward of the rails. The lines open on either side at the forward end of the cockpit. A stainless steel swim ladder hangs from the stern, and can be lifted out of the water when not in use.
All Catalina 25s came with a tiller, and the cockpit is setup well for tiller use with two benches that run the length of the cockpit. Racers will appreciate the feedback of the tiller steering, but some more cruising oriented Catalina 25 owners have retrofitted wheel steering with relative ease due to the short distance from the cockpit to the rudder and easy access to necessary spaces beneath the cockpit. The tiller on most Catalina 25s can be raised out of the way when not sailing, although some boats came with two bolts connecting the tiller to the rudder, in which case most of those owners simply removed one of the bolts so that the tiller could still pivot up and out of the way. Replacement tillers specific to the Catalina 25 are available from Catalina Direct.
Most Catalina 25s have their halyard winches at the aft end of the cabin top, which cannot be reached by the helmsman without a tiller extension, but which are well situated for crew to operate. Some earlier boats had their halyard winches mounted to the mast, although many owners have reconfigured their boats so that all lines lead aft. Many owners have fitted the Tiller Tamer available from Catalina Direct, which allows them to leave the tiller unattended while moving forward. Not all Catalina 25s have Jib sheet winches but if they are installed, are typically found on the cockpit coamings within very easy reach of the helmsman. The mainsheet is also within very easy reach of the helmsman. The Catalina 25 cockpit is large enough for crew to operate both the mainsheet and the jib sheets without interfering with the helmsman.
Beneath the port bench is a very large lazarette for a boat this size. One Catalina 25 owner reports being able to easily store a 110% working jib, 135% drifter, and a 155% genoa in this locker along with his shore power cable, fenders, a throwable life preserver, and many miscellaneous items along the shelf built into the starboard side of the hull. He particularly appreciated not having to clutter up his v-berth, which he and his wife actively used, with sails as is done on many boats. The Catalina 25 lazarette can be secured with a padlock to prevent theft or a pin to prevent down flooding in a knockdown.
All Catalina 25s came with a manual bilge pump, which was mounted in this lazarette so that the pump handle when installed, protrudes from the side of the left cockpit bench. Access to this pump is easy from inside the lazarette. The manual pump is not self-priming and is of little use except in emergencies. Many owners have upgraded to electric bilge pumps running in tandem with the manual.
The earliest Catalina 25s had the fuel tank situated in this lazarette, but later the aft end of the lazarette was divided into a separate fuel locker which is accessible beneath an additional hatch under the aft end of the port bench. The problem with having the fuel in the lazarette as in the original design is that the lazarette drained to the bilge enabling a possible build-up of explosive fumes on boats equipped with outboard motors and lacking bilge blowers as inboard boats have. In the updated Catalina 25 design, the fuel is in a raised locker that vents to the outside and has no connection to the bilge.
Beneath the aft end of the starboard bench is a storage compartment not specified by Catalina for any particular use. This compartment has a rubber gasket, and so some owners use it for dry storage while others use it for a cockpit cooler, large enough to hold ice and a 6 pack. Some Catalina 25 owners report using this compartment for live bait.
Almost always, cockpit instruments are mounted in the aft cabin trunk bulkhead. Owners report replacing and installing new instruments is straightforward due to easy access. While typical and practical for boats of this size, if the cockpit is full, crew and guests can block the captain’s view of these instruments, and he or she must ask the person seated closest to them about readings.
Going forward, the side decks of the Catalina 25 are necessarily narrow, but not uncomfortably so. The lifeline stanchions are at the low height of 22” typical for a boat this size, but are functional if one pulls up on the lifeline when holding on, which plants feet firmly on deck. Most Catalina 25s have handholds running the entire length of the cabin house top. The shrouds are placed directly in the middle of the side decks so that going forward requires a little navigation although owners seem to move forward with ease. Replacement life lines and stanchions specific to the Catalina 25 are available from Catalina Direct.
The bow is a nice space for working with a sturdy pulpit surrounding the anchor locker. Catalina 25 owners report this is a nice rail on which to lean while hanking on jib sails in a chop. The anchor locker is large enough to hold an appropriately sized Danforth anchor and plenty of rode. The anchor locker drains overboard and can be secured with a padlock or pin. Replacement bow pulpits and stern rails specific to the Catalina 25 are available from Catalina Direct.
In 1990, the Catalina 25 was discontinued and the Catalina 250 was introduced shortly thereafter. While the Catalina 250 is also a good boat, it began Catalina’s shift toward day-sailers in this size class. The Catalina 250 used water ballast with a centerboard to improve trailering ability, but a wing keel model was also offered for sailors interested in a more traditional setup. The Catalina 250 also lacked a number of the liveaboard-type cruising features of the Catalina 25, but did benefit from a better enclosed head. Catalina produced the Catalina 250 for a number of years, but later moved entirely to day-sailors for this size class of boat.
Catalina 25s can be found on the used boat market typically ranging anywhere in price from $4,000 to $15,000, mostly depending upon condition, installed equipment and upgrades, and interior updates. However, derelict project boats occasionally pop-up for much less. Due to the ubiquity of the Catalina 25, it is always easy to find one for sale on Craigslist, Sailboat Listings , Sailing Texas , and other venues, and there are a plethora on Yacht World . If shopping for a Catalina 25, make sure all swing keel maintenance has been performed or be prepared to do it. Check early boats with aluminum trimmed windows for leaks, which was common but easily repairable. Check for blistering, which was a hit and miss problem on earlier boats. Otherwise, nothing is special to consider with these boats that one would not for any other boat.
Special thanks to Scott Bond, Steve Milby, Frank Oliver, Dave Bristle, and Kyle Koeper for their contributions to this article.
ADDITIONAL RESOURCES
Catalina 25, 250 & Capri 25 International Association
Catalina 25 Specific Parts Available from Catalina Direct
Catalina 25s for Sale on Yachtworld.com
COCKPIT VIEW VIDEO OF CATALINA 25 SAILING ON CALIFORNIA DELTA
CATALINA 25 CLASS RACING
VIDEO TOUR OF A CATALINA 25 WITH POP-TOP, TRADITIONAL LAYOUT, AND SWING KEEL
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8 thoughts on “ catalina 25 review ”.
A big thank you for your blog post.Really thank you! Really Cool.
Yep thanks from me too! I’ve never heard of these things, believe it or not. Just found one in Sydney and am doing some googling… turns out they’re a great, much loved boat lol. This comprehensive article is evidence for sure. Such a nice, clean shape that really hasn’t aged. Maybe newer designs are wider in the tail but that’s about it. This experience feels like when I bought a boring old Subaru and discovered that there were heaps of web sites and forums run by people who love them.
I like the catalina 25 sailboats
enjoyed this article. I would like to know if you can totally beach a swing keel so that the weight of the boat rest atop of the swing keel.
Hello DAB and thanks. The swing keel Catalina 25 was not designed to be beached or grounded. When fully lifted, the keel remains mostly below the hull. If the boat were beached, the keel could put more stress on the fiberglass keel trunk and slot in the hull than the design could accommodate.
The C-25 boats with inboard was factory installed with standard stuffing box not a saildrive. Had my ’86 ten years. We loved her. She never let us down.
“Check early boats with aluminum trimmed windows for leaks, which was common but easily repairable. ”
mine is early and has leaky aluminum windows. Can you point me to resources (or the source of your info?) for easy repairs? My understanding was that gasket/window replacement was a complete pain, but maybe that was for later boats.
Hello Smosh! The link below will take you to the Aluminum Window Reseal Kit available from Catalina Direct. The kit includes the materials you need to make the repair, and includes instructions. http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1055/aluminum-window-reseal-kit-c-25-c-27.cfm
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New Life for an Old Favorite. A Capri 25 Gets Her Groove on Again!
I love boats as much as any sailor but I am truly in love with my 1984 Capri 25 called Little Wing. I picked her up in August 2016 after hearing about her over beers after a Thursday night race. The boats at the Great Salt Lake in Utah had been sitting on the hard for 2 years waiting for lake levels to rise enough to fill the marina. People were looking to get rid of their boats and Little Wing was a deal I couldn’t refuse.
She was in great shape considering her age and having sat on her trailer for 2 years uncovered. The interior was excellent. The bottom had layers of old ablative bottom paint but all in all she was ready to sail.
I took ownership and she got stored that fall next to a friend’s house. She was covered for the winter and in Spring 2017 I sanded for hours and hours to get the bottom race ready. But while she was uncovered for the bottom work, she fell victim to seed pods from the cottonwood trees next to my buddy’s house. What was a decent deck was now stained by seeds that embedded themselves in the boat. They were impossible to remove. I started thinking I should develop some kind of paint made with the seed pods. Seems like it would last forever!
I didn’t let the stains bother me too much and our first season of racing on the boat was a success. But the age of the deck paint became an issue. The smooth parts of the deck were heavily oxidized and the factory molded non-skid was becoming non-existent. By the end of the season I had decided to re-paint the deck.
Winters in Utah are plenty cold and snowy so an indoor space to work was needed. I actually found a shop while surfing the local sailboat classifieds late one night. A guy was selling a boat and the photos of the ad were taken in what looked to be a perfect spot for a deck job. So I called the guy up, complimented his boat and asked if I could rent a space in his shop. He agreed and I was one step closer to my project.
What I thought would be a simple spray and refresh of the non-skid actually turned into a full and complete deck restoration. I also thought I could do this in 2 months. That was also a mistake. This project ended up being the biggest DIY project I’d ever done taking 5 months to complete. But because we had the space and the time we decided to do the job right.
In November 2017 we started by removing all of the deck hardware, stanchions and pulpits. The forehatch and cockpit lockers were also removed. The teak was in bad shape so that came off as well. From my count that was roughly 400 fasteners! I was amazed at how taken apart Little Wing could be. This part of the job was actually pretty quick. Soon after the sanding began.
When we sanded the bottom I realized sanding a boat is brutal. Sanding the bottom was much more difficult but sanding the deck had its challenges. I wanted to have a flat surface to paint the new non-skid so we sanded the factory molded non-skid off. The parts of the deck without non-skid also got sanded pretty well since the paint was so oxidized.
Sanding took much longer than expected. Once the sanding was done we could focus on the rest of the project. Here’s a list of those projects and what was done to complete them:
Removed forward port bulkhead. This was damaged with rot and needed attention. O first had to remove the mast compression post. To keep the deck intact I placed a 2×4 just aft of the post as a brace, then pounded out the post with a rubber mallet. I contemplated cutting and fabricating an entirely new bulkhead out of fresh marine plywood but my budget wasn’t big enough for the expense. Instead I removed the rotted parts and re-sealed the wood with Smith’s 2-part epoxy sealer. The wood absorbed almost the entire quart. While curing I pressed any delaminated sections with clamps and 2×4’s. Once cured, I filled the voids from the removed rot with epoxy wood filler and sanded fair. The bulkhead is much more solid now and looks great.
Glassed over hole left by old knot meter. The old knot meter barley worked so it came out. The head unit left a good sized hole in the cabin house. I glassed it over with a piece of plywood. I didn’t have access to any marine ply so I just used some scrap and infused it with epoxy sealer. Some fairing compound and some sanding and the cabin top was good as new.
Re-arranged cabin top hardware layout. The Capri 25 is more than 30 years old. That’s enough time to figure out some inefficiencies in the original design. We got rid of some cam cleats and replaced them with more powerful clutches. We also moved the topping lift and foreguy to be outboard and within hands reach for the pit person. In practice, this has proved to be much more efficient and much cleaner looking.
Once sanding was completed, we wiped the deck with TotalBoat de-waxer and removed as much dust as we could.
The cabin top teak was in pretty bad shape and was destroyed when we removed it with the rest of the hardware. This was one of the more challenging parts of the project. Sourcing teak in Utah was a challenge but we found a hardwood distributor in Salt Lake. Teak is $40 a board foot so we actually went with Iroko wood. Iroko has very similar properties to teak. It’s highly mildew resistant and is very dense. The color is similar to teak a well. However, it’s a quarter of the cost. I then had to find a way to rout and cut the wood. One of my crew ended up having the right tools. We made took some measurements from the old busted teak and went at it. Our first try was a failure. Evidently there are some woodworking skills I lack. The first effort resulted in very badly warped trim pieces. We routed when we should have cut and vice versa. Our second stab was much better and the finished product looks very good.
With all the intermediate projects done, it was finally time to start painting. For simplicity I used one-part polyurethane Interlux Brightsides. I purchased a cheap sprayer from Harbor Freight for the painting. I actually went through 2 sprayers. My advice here is to spend $100 on a quality sprayer. It matters! While I didn’t have huge issues, I did have to spend some time making sure the quality of the spray was what I wanted.
I sprayed a sort of half coat to make sure the paint would stick and that I didn’t miss any prep. The test coat looked good so I went with 3 more coats. I let each coat dry at least 24 hrs.
For the non-skid, I chose KiwiGrip. KiwiGrip is a latex goop that gets it’s non-skid properties from a textured roller. As with all paint, prep is key. I followed the instructions for scuffing any shiny paint. I wanted crisp lines from non-skid to shiny white, so I took my time with my tape job. Once prep is done, I practices my KiwiGrip technique on a piece of ply wood. While it’s simple, there is a technique to getting the texture you want and not having any bubbles form. KiwiGrip has the consistency of yogurt and I glopped it on with a plastic spoon. Then the roller is used rolling back and forth, spreading the goop and getting the texture right. The more you roll it, the smoother it gets however, so that’s where some practice comes in handy. The starboard side definitely looks better than the port side as I got better at rolling out the non-skid.
Once it was all dry, it was time to put the hardware back on. I spent extra time making sure all my holes were clean and free of debris. I used 3M 4200 in each hole. Out of 400 holes, I only have 2 leaks! We’ll tackle those next spring. I put the new wood down on the cabin top and simplified the cabin top layout with new clutches and moving a halyard or 2. I finished off the new deck with new lifelines and a new grey rubrail.
Once the deck was finished I went ahead and re-wired the interior and running lights and installed new LED lighting.
This was by far the biggest DYI project I have ever taken on. Bigger than any landscape project. Bigger than any car maintenance job. But it was also the most rewarding by far. Everything worked out great this summer. KiwiGrip is awesome. And having a clean, smooth cockpit to lounge in at the dock is amazing. Little Wing gets many compliments at the marina and no one can believe the boat is more than 30 years old. I think she has another 30 years left in her!
Products used:
Interlux Brightsides
TotalBoat De-waxer
Spinlock Clutches
Racor marine wire
Smith’s Penetrating Epoxy
Vendors Used:
Ballard Sails and Rigging
Catalina Direct
Fisheries Supply
Harbor Freight
Macbeth Hardwoods
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Review of Capri 25
Basic specs..
The hull is made of fibreglass. Generally, a hull made of fibreglass requires only a minimum of maintenance during the sailing season. And outside the sailing season, just bottom cleaning and perhaps anti-fouling painting once a year - a few hours of work, that's all.
Unknown keel type
The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 1.28 - 1.38 meter (4.20 - 4.50 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.
Sailing characteristics
This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.
What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?
The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 5.9 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.
The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Capri 25 is about 109 kg/cm, alternatively 614 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 109 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 614 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.
Sailing statistics
This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.
What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?
Maintenance
When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 18m 2 (193 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.
Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale
If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.
Usage
Length
Diameter
Mainsail halyard
21.5 m
(70.5 feet)
8 mm
(5/16 inch)
Jib/genoa halyard
21.5 m
(70.5 feet)
8 mm
(5/16 inch)
Spinnaker halyard
21.5 m
(70.5 feet)
8 mm
(5/16 inch)
Jib sheet
7.6 m
(25.0 feet)
10 mm
(3/8 inch)
Genoa sheet
7.6 m
(25.0 feet)
10 mm
(3/8 inch)
Mainsheet
19.1 m
(62.5 feet)
10 mm
(3/8 inch)
Spinnaker sheet
16.8 m
(55.0 feet)
10 mm
(3/8 inch)
Cunningham
2.9 m
(9.5 feet)
8 mm
(5/16 inch)
Kickingstrap
5.8 m
(19.0 feet)
8 mm
(5/16 inch)
Clew-outhaul
5.8 m
(19.0 feet)
8 mm
(5/16 inch)
This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.
Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.
We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Capri 25 it would be a great help.
If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.
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Catalina Capri 26
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Hello there, I am a new Capri 26 Owner, just looking to exchange ideas with other Capri 26 owners out there. Look forward to hearing from anyone that currently or previously owned a Capri 26. I have a 1992 Hull#246, Complete with Heated water system Sailing on Lake Mead Nv, winds can go from 0kts to 30kts at any moment. The wind often swirls, and changes directions. Its a crazy lake to sail. Ill be sailing this boat until I retire (11 more years?) then I plan on upgrading and moving away to a coastal paradise. In the process of changing sails out, the boat still has the original 1992 main which is blown out pretty bad,. Changing to a loose foot, tri-radial design. Also currently using the 135% genoa that came with the boat, but I am considering getting a 145%. Does any one think a 155% would be too much for this boat? Im getting mixed info from some folks....some think its too much sail for the boat, others think its ok. (i have a roller furler). Anyone have any sailing tips for this very beamy boat?
Sails The boat sails well with a 155%. I currently own my second Capri 26. The last one had a 155% Rf North headsail and was great but you have to reef earlier. My new boat has lots of hanked on sails, but if the wind is light I use the 155%, if it is windy, I use a 110.
Thanks very much for your input
Capri 26 A month ago I too acquired a 1992 C26 hull #206. Very clean boat with 120 hours on the M12 diesel. I am very fussy, and all has to be perfect. I did a lot of research. I was suprised to see the boat being equiped with Patay cockpit pump. I got in touch with Patay in the UK and had them send me service kit for the pump. I have been battling wiht a number of issues mainly water leaks. The Beckson ports on the galley and head are problematic, they do not have the rain drain, thus water tends to accumulate in the spigot which eventually leaks in. I have rebedded both and ordered new gaskets and screens. Let's see whether they will stop leaking other wise I will repalce them with Bomar 2000 series ports. I also rebedded the Bomar hatch, have to change the mushroom caps as well. Also there has been water accumulation in the floor of the hanging closet. I think the issue there is that the exhaust fitting is lose and when the engine is running the is some water in take. I will wait till the boat comes out of the water and then I will address it. I have had enough with the leaks, unforutnatly I have found an added leak, from the mast plate. Perhaps the electical connections are not caulked water was accumulating at the base of the mast post. I hope to address this as well. I love the boat however a bit disappointed at the workmanship. I was not impressed to see the head being held with 2 inch screws. With the leaky ports in the head, the floor got soaked and the screws are no longer firm. I had the head bolted to the floor with plates holding underneath. I had to rebed the Bomar hatch as well. The boat came with a CDI furling unit, I will see how it is and I might repalce it next year. i also need a bimini and a winter cover. My previous boat I had a Jeanneau. Best Jim
Capri 26 "rounding up in gusts" issue I know this thread is old, but I was looking to find out more about the capri 26 round up problem, my boat will occasionally round up in gusts and i have heard that this has been an issue with all capri 26 boats. Does anyone have any info on this ( what causes it?) Other than my crappy sailing skills. I also heard that Catalina has issued and engineering release on this issue but I havent found it yet. Thanks!
I've noted the same problem and have assumed it was natural weather-helm when she is overpowered. Which brings me to an additional question (if I may be a usurper)-- can anyone comment on what is the best way to depower when racing on a windy day-- reef the main or partially roller-furl the headsail? Would your recommendations change if you were racing versus cruising? Diverboy-- I'm new to Sailnet and would like to compare notes on the Capri 26 with you (I've just read your old posts.)
Hello there and thanks for the reply to my post about the capri 26 I would love to compare notes with you. I have a ton of pics and a few videos as well, just you tube Catalina Capri 26 My boat should pop up. You can reach my personal e-mail from there. Its a great boat, but there is definatley an issue with the rounding up. I have not received a reply from catalina yet reference this I will probably just call them next week. I have had a number of more skilled sailors than I take her out, and the issue is still there. I have discovered how to avoid it ( not pointing as high) and reefing much sooner than you would expect. This seems to help considerably but, it definatley affects your sailing as you have to veer off the wind more than should be needed, as you know this creates more distance from point A to point B, making staying competitive in a race difficult. Also the boat seems slow on the start but once i find that sweet spot she normally pulls ahead of other boats with similar PHRF ratings, ( mine is about 215-220) due to the inboard with Fixed prop. Looking forward to hearing from you! Russ
If you have a Capri 26 and would like to discuss this boat, please feel free to join us at [email protected] Go to capri26 : Capri 26 National Association All Capri 26 owners are invited to join up. It's free, and the group is active and friendly! See ya there! Richard
I've seen a Capri 26 for sale. Can anyone tell me the headroom, I'm 6' 2" and looking for a boat that I can fit inside and also clear the boom. Thanks Jim
Late reply... I'm 6'1" and can stand upright only under the hatch (while closed). But the boat is quite comfortable... Sitting headroom is fine, and stretch out room on the bunks is ok. Check my web page for more info... Temptress Page
Just put my Capri 26 in this weekend. The boat was sitting still for about 12 years with sails on. I am looking for a set of sails to get me by till I can get new ones. Also dose anyone have recommendation where to go for sails. Ken [email protected]
Do you still own your Capri 26/ Are you still sailing Lake Mead? I am looking for a Capri 26. My cell is 775 690 7671
5 yo thread? 6 posts by the OP? might just get crickets.
Hello, Would anyone know where to get the veneer strips that are imbedded in teak. (Wood cover over bilge) Thanks, Chris
Im looking for a Capri 26 for sale in the Northeast US if anyone is considering selling next year...
New owner of 1993 hull 266, looking forward to sailing in Eastern NC
Darryl are you giving up on your Oday 26? I am just assuming you are the same Darryl I have sailed with. The Capri 26 isn't exactly a quick boat, last I heard you were looking at an S2 7.9, very different boats. If speed is what you are after, in roughly that size range, I'd consider the S2 7.9, the Laser 28 (good luck finding one), the Tripp 26, or the Capri 25. The Tripp and Capri 25 are pretty good in light air, the S2 and Laser are good all around performers. The Capri 25 in my opinion is a PHRF killer in the very light stuff. Since you guys use Portsmouth, I will say that the rating is a gift in Portsmouth. The boat does stop dead in chop (there are steering techniques that help it, but it is a wide short waterline boat, so it just stops easily, just be prepared for motorboat wakes to be frustrating in the light stuff). As you can imagine the S2 would be a challenge to sail against those who have sailed them for 20ish years. In my opinion though with crew you could be competitive. Knowing how well you sail, you could easily give them a run for their money. You know how to get a hold of me if you want some ideas. PS: To get the right boat it might be a bit of a road trip, but I have my eye on a few. I can give you a line on a boat (not mentioned above) that might be a wild off the wall choice if you are interested. Its 26 feet long if the guy still has it for sale it'd be a hoot.
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Need help setting up Capri 25
Thread starter Ljpotterm
Start date May 25, 2019
Catalina Owner Forums
Ask A Catalina Owner
Thanks for accepting me as a member. I purchased a 1980 Capri 25 fixed keel, previous owner upgraded to a roller furling. The mast is raised but that’s all. Boom is not installed. Nothing is installed. I’ve searched for weeks trying to find any guides on setting up everything. I can tune the standing rigging myself. Everything else I need help with. Can you point me to any step by step guides please? Any help would be greatly appreciated. The previous owner is not available so I can’t ask him.
I like that boat. I can't refer to a guide to set up but if you have all the parts (And that's not to be assumed) the next thing I would do is put the boom on. Hopefully there's a topping lift to hold the aft end of the boom up. You've got to look at the mast in the area of the boom mounting and the boom end that is at the mast. It should be somewhat obvious how they mate. Next go for the mainsheet because on unrestrained boom is a bit dangerous. I can't say much more without pictures of the hardware you have. BTW the spreaders seem to be angled down instead of up.
it must be the camera angle. The spreaders are installed correctly.
I found this link that will at least give you access to the owners manual (assuming you don’t already have it). http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/manbro/manbro.asp The manual has a photo of the traveler setup at the stern so that should help with getting the main sheet setup. Of course your boat might have been modified here as well (hard to tell without more pictures.) In the photo it also looks like the rudder isn’t mounted, might be a relatively simple place to start. I faced a similar problem with my first keelboat, lots of lines, pulleys and odd shaped bits. I asked an experienced sailor to come to the boat and help and after a few hours of head scratching and laughing at each other we had it rigged. I waited for a gentle breeze day before I went out to determine if we had it right, ended up “fixing” a few items and never looked back.
Our club has an active racing fleet of 30 Capri 25s, but none post here. If you have a specific question I’ll pass it along. I see them every day.
On the Catalina 22 the rudder is removable. It’s attached to the transom. On 25’s it goes through the floor of the cockpit. It’s only visible if you’re standing next to the stern. My biggest concern is properly attaching the boom to the mast. I’ll grab a couple pictures so you can see what I’m talking about.
Interesting didn’t know that about the 25. Counts as my learn something new each day! Photos will definitely help. It would also help if you could provide a little background on your sailing experience as it would set the communication level.
Stu Jackson
Hunter216 said: I found this link that will at least give you access to the owners manual (assuming you don’t already have it). http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/manbro/manbro.asp Click to expand
Besides the owner’s manual, Royce’s Sailing Illustrated will familiarize you with topping lifts, boom vangs, turnbuckles, chainplates, tillers, rudders, keels, dagger boards, center boards, barney posts, halyards, sheets, shrouds, cunninghams, pintels, gudgeons, jammers, travelers, cams, bailers, shackles, split rings, blocks, cleats, clutches, winches, goosenecks, outhauls, downhauls... whew! Gotta catch my breath! Shackles! Did I say shackles? I already said shackles. Specific boats have specific rigging, but once you understand rigging, every boat makes sense very quickly. Then, you can make the boat do what you want! I read Royce’s when I bought my US1 in ‘85. It was a wreck, but Royce’s made it make sense. I put that thing together and sailed the hell out of it! Try Royce’s if you are unsure what all the rigging does.
agprice22 said: Besides the owner’s manual, Royce’s Sailing Illustrated will familiarize you with topping lifts, boom vangs, turnbuckles, chainplates, tillers, rudders, keels, dagger boards, center boards, barney posts, halyards, sheets, shrouds, cunninghams, pintels, gudgeons, jammers, travelers, cams, bailers, shackles, split rings, blocks, cleats, clutches, winches, goosenecks, outhauls, downhauls... whew! Gotta catch my breath! Shackles! Did I say shackles? I already said shackles. Specific boats have specific rigging, but once you understand rigging, every boat makes sense very quickly. Then, you can make the boat do what you want! I read Royce’s when I bought my US1 in ‘85. It was a wreck, but Royce’s made it make sense. I put that thing together and sailed the hell out of it! Try Royce’s if you are unsure what all the rigging does. Click to expand
Time to update. I understand the boom is supposed to slide up and down in its channel. My question is more about the mast. There’s a large slot to insert the boom gooseneck. There are about 8 holes around this slot as if some kind of plate is supposed to be attached. I posted a picture. Far below that is a screw. Is this to prevent the boom from sliding down too far? I attached a picture. I also attached pictures of the gooseneck assembly and the back stay. You can see it’s a split back stay. I assume the little carriage assembly is to adjust tension on the back stay while you’re sailing.
Attachments
My sailing experience is with small boats like sunfish. Nothing this size. Nothing with 2 sails. I belong to a great club that is extremely active. They constantly encourage new members to ride along with older members so they can learn. My learning curve may be steep but I have a great support network. Lake Norman Yacht Club in Mooresville, NC. It’s a very active racing community.
The boom is connected to a gooseneck that can be fitted in the mast track, but you should rig a downhaul to hold it in place at the least. The gooseneck is commonly bolted in place at the limit of the luff.
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Welcome @Ljpotterm and congrats on your new boat. She has the looks of a beauty.
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This web site is made possible by Catalina 25, Catalina 250, and Capri 25 sailboat owners who have joined this International Association. In order for us to continue our efforts to organize and promote ownership of these fine vessels, we need the support of all the non-members who use this web site regularly. Current membership is only $22.00 a year for the USA and it's territories.
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Manufacturers Brochures and Manuals. CDI FF2 Furler Manuals. PDF. Catalina 25, Catalina 250, and Capri International Association, membership and information about the sailboat. This web site is made possible by Catalina 25, Catalina 250, and Capri 25 sailboat owners who have joined this International Association.
Need help setting up Capri 25
Thanks for accepting me as a member. I purchased a 1980 Capri 25 fixed keel, previous owner upgraded to a roller furling. The mast is raised but that's all. Boom is not installed. Nothing is installed. I've searched for weeks trying to find any guides on setting up everything. I can tune the...
IMAGES
VIDEO
COMMENTS
Under power, the Catalina 25 will make about 5- 1/2 knots with a 6-hp. outboard, and you can coax an extra 1/2 to 3/4 knot or so out of the boat with an 8- hp. or 9.9-hp. engine. (Theoretical maximum hull speed in ideal conditions is around 6.3 knots.)
It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5
The Capri 25 came with a pedigree as a great club racer here in the Intermountain West, but most important, it had a spirit, that of a sailboat ready for more adventures. After more than 30 years ...
A Capri 25 or a J24. Both boats have been dry sailed. Both boats are in good shape. Some minor fixes to both in rigging and sails would have to be done. I sail on a good size lake. The club sails Portsmouth handycap. The fleet has 4 Capri 25's and 5 J24's, there is also a Star, 2 S2 7.9, J22, and 5 S20's.
Boat: 14 meter sloop. Posts: 7,260. Re: thoughts on capri 25 for singlejhanded sailing. The Capri 25 is built more to the racer end of the racer/cruiser concept, as is the Merit. If you're not interested in racing, you'll be far better off with a Catalina 27, especially when considered on a dollar-for-dollar basis.
Catalina Capri 25 is a 24′ 6″ / 7.5 m monohull sailboat built by Catalina Yachts between 1980 and 1986. Great choice! ... The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more. Formula. D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³ D: Displacement of the boat in pounds. LWL: Waterline ...
The Capri 25 is a recreational keelboat, built predominantly of fiberglass.It has a masthead sloop rig, a spooned raked stem, a vertical transom, an internally mounted spade-type rudder controlled by a tiller and a fixed fin keel.It displaces 2,950 lb (1,338 kg) and carries 900 lb (408 kg) of lead ballast. The boat has a draft of 4.20 ft (1.28 m) with the standard keel fitted.
The Catalina 25 is a good racer/cruiser for inland and coastal waters available on the used market at very affordable prices. This sailboat benefits from a large user base, active owner's forum, and easy availability of spare parts. Designed by Frank Butler of Catalina Yachts in Hollywood, CA, over 6,000 Catalina 25s were built from 1976 ...
I love boats as much as any sailor but I am truly in love with my 1984 Capri 25 called Little Wing. I picked her up in August 2016 after hearing about her over beers after a Thursday night race. The boats at the Great Salt Lake in Utah had been sitting on the hard for 2 years waiting for lake levels to rise enough to fill the marina.
Capri 25 International Assoc. Catalina 25: Products: M&B SHIPCANVAS CO. The Sail Warehouse ... 1997), states that a boat with a BN of less than 1.3 will be slow in light winds. A boat with a BN of 1.6 or greater is a boat that will be reefed often in offshore cruising. Derek Harvey, "Multihulls for Cruising and Racing", International Marine ...
I race a Capri 25 at the Wayzata Yacht Club in Minnesota. As far as I know, we have the largest Capri 25 fleet in the world. We also have one-design J24, J22, S2-7.9, Sonar, and others. I think most of the Capri owners feel the Capri is a great racing boat, and with the mast-head rig, is definitely better in light air.
The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Capri 25 is about 109 kg/cm, alternatively 614 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 109 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 614 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.
Cal Heyday of Merits, A merit in light air should out-point a Capri 25, and in light and medium air be faster than a J24 ( Bigger fore sails and spinnaker). A J24 is faster in a breeze- it's wider and maybe lighter. Our ratings for the boats in 1983 was: Merit 25- 156, J24 -174, Capri 25- 174.
My club (WYC) has a large OD fleet of Capri 25s; easily the largest in the country. Over 20 of the things hit the line every week. Lots of my friends sail them. They are pretty quick boats. Like the Merit 25 and the Kirby 25, it was designed in reaction to the J/24. Unlike the other 3, it is a old-school mast-head rig.
The Capri 25 is a great club racer, with its' modest cost, easy sail handling and lively performance (PHRF rating 168 to 177). The boat features a light displacement (2785#), high performance underbody and wide unobstr ucted cockpit and decks. It is similar in performance to a J -24 or Kirby 25, but it is better suited to family duty since it
0. On the hard, NH USA. Mar 16, 2007. #3. This was posted in the Yahoo Capri 25 group: There are numerous things to work on: 1. Mast rake - in 10 to 12 knots, I used up to 12" of rake. More rake will also help you with the car position on the #2. i.e. with more rake, it will have the same effect as moving the car aft and giving more twist up top.
6 posts · Joined 2008. #1 · Oct 25, 2008. Hello there, I am a new Capri 26 Owner, just looking to exchange ideas with other Capri 26 owners out there. Look forward to hearing from anyone that currently or previously owned a Capri 26. I have a 1992 Hull#246, Complete with Heated water system. Sailing on Lake Mead Nv, winds can go from 0kts to ...
If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of CAPRI 25 (CATALINA). Built by Catalina Yachts and designed by undefined, the boat was first built in 1980. It has a hull type of Fin w/spade rudder and LOA is 7.49.
Merit 25 is a better boat than the J in PHRF and for pocket cruising. Its faster than the J in light air and equal in breeze. Always faster downwind than the J. Th Capri is a good value but a real piece of Franks crap. Catalina's finest in mast etc...
This web site is made possible by Catalina 25, Catalina 250, and Capri 25 sailboat owners who have joined this International Association. In order for us to continue our efforts to organize and promote ownership of these fine vessels, we need the support of all the non-members who use this web site regularly. Current membership is only $22.00 a year for the USA and it's territories.
Manufacturers Brochures and Manuals. CDI FF2 Furler Manuals. PDF. Catalina 25, Catalina 250, and Capri International Association, membership and information about the sailboat. This web site is made possible by Catalina 25, Catalina 250, and Capri 25 sailboat owners who have joined this International Association.
Thanks for accepting me as a member. I purchased a 1980 Capri 25 fixed keel, previous owner upgraded to a roller furling. The mast is raised but that's all. Boom is not installed. Nothing is installed. I've searched for weeks trying to find any guides on setting up everything. I can tune the...