segelyacht volt

• up to 5.25 knots
• 3-10 hours 5 mph
• up to 10 hours
• up to 12 kWh
• 1 Outboard Motor
• ePropulsion 3
• 2-3 x Li-ion 4kW
• Fibreglass/Composite
• 10 hull colours available
• 8 upholstery colours available
• Carbon fibre poles
• JBL Bluetooth Marine Sound System
• Corian table with wine glass and cup holders
• LED cabin lights and navigation lights
• Optional rod holders and livewell
• Integrated 110-220V compatible charger

The Volt 180 Electric Boat

Discover sustainable boating, volt 180 specifications, energy & range, base equipment, gallery of volt 180.

Uniqueness of

Versatile electric boating.

The Volt 180 by Vision Marine Technologies offers a versatile electric boating experience. This 18-foot vessel is designed to serve multiple purposes, from family cruising and water skiing to sport fishing and commercial water taxi services. Its sturdy construction also makes it suitable for the demands of rental fleets.

Advanced Hull Construction

The Volt 180's hull is crafted using a fibreglass infusion technique typically employed in larger boats. This method ensures precise control of material thickness throughout the hull, resulting in a perfect balance of strength and performance.

Customisable Design

Vision Marine Technologies offers extensive customisation options for the Volt 180. With 10 hull colours, 8 upholstery colours, and 2 floor and deck finishes available, owners can tailor their boat to reflect their personal style and needs.

Eco-Friendly Performance

Powered by electric propulsion, the Volt 180 provides a quiet and environmentally friendly boating experience. The boat can be fitted with various power options, from a 2 kWh system up to a Torqeedo Deep Blue 60 kWh engine, catering to different performance needs.

View video reviews, onboard virtual tours and walkthroughs, sea trials and test drives of Volt 180 from the manufacturer and independent yachting experts.

Download PDF documents for the Volt 180 model including brochures with standard specifications, price lists featuring optional upgrades, performance charts and test drive data.

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Leading europe's electric boat revolution since 2016.

New Oceanvolt ServoProp most powerful hydrogeneration on the market

The patented and award winning Oceanvolt ServoProp saildrive now offers the most powerful hydrogeneration of any electric motor on the market with the new HighPower ServoProp 25.

Hydrogeneration – also referred to as regeneration or regen – is the unique ability of electric motors to generate electricity and recharge the battery as the boat moves through the water. Not all electric motors have this capability, those that do are used on sailboats – the hydrogeneration happens when the boat is sailing under wind power.

Oceanvolt is recognized as one of the leaders and pioneers in hydrogenerating motors, with their  original ServoProp innovation winning the DAME Design Awards at METSTRADE in 2016. The Oceanvolt ServoProp has since been adopted by hundreds of high profile yachts around the world.

Two and a half times hydrogeneration power

The big innovation of the ServoProp is in their propellers. Their combination of controllable pitch with the ability to rotate 360 degrees enable ultimate efficiency in both propulsion and electricity generation. This gives a significant advantage over traditional folding prop setups.

As you can see from the chart, the new HighPower ServoProp 25 can generate 5kW of power at a speed of 10 knots – which is two and a half times the amount generated by the ServoProp 15 kW motor at the same speed. The company says future remote software updates are expected to increase the yield and efficiency of the regeneration. (The third line on the chart is the generation ability of the Oceanvolt SD15 which has a 15kW motor but with standard folding propellers.)

First electric propulsion X-Yacht powered by Oceanvolt

This regen feature is activated from the Oceanvolt display in the cockpit. With the touch of a button the system switches to regeneration mode, displaying the generated power, RPM and time remaining until the batteries are fully charged.

Compact, lightweight

Saildrives are traditionally mounted with the propeller facing backwards because they have to allow space for folding propellers and large diesel engines. The compact electric HPSP has the flexibility to be installed with the propeller facing forwards or backwards. Oceanvolt recommends mounting the leg (lower unit) of the HPSP with the propeller forward to achieve maximum efficiency of both hydrogeneration and propulsion.

Compared to a fossil fuel combustion motor, the HPSP has other benefits beyond the lack of carbon emissions and noxious fumes. The motor controller, propeller blade control, and complete liquid cooling are built into the Oceanvolt unit so it can be installed with only a few cables to connect.

There are no exhaust or fuel systems to install or accommodate and overall risk, drag and failure points are reduced because there is no need for additional seawater inlets or outlets.

First deliveries Q4 /2023

The nominal power of the HPSP is 25 kW, with peak power of 30kW for periods up to 15 minutes. Oceanvolt says the ICE equivalent is 75 horsepower, but the electric motor provides superior instant torque and with nearly 5000 newton static thrust in both forward and reverse, it makes for excellent control of the boat even in harsh conditions.

All Oceanvolt systems are safe 48 Volts, including their modular AXC inboard motors and SD saildrives with standard props.

The company recently completed an oversubscribed crowdfunding round of €1.46M and noted at the time that the HighPower ServoProp would be an investment priority, along with expanding the dealer network.

Deliveries for the HSPS-25 start in the fourth quarter of 2023. The motor is suitable as a propulsion motor for boats up to 70 ft in length and weighing up to 25 tons. It can also be used as a hydrogenerator alone in substantially larger vessels. The first vessel to feature the HPSP will be the X-Yachts Xc 47 launching in 2024.

Peak power	30 kW (15 min)
Nominal power	25 kW
Equivalent HP	75 HP
Propeller diameter	23 inches / .58m
Weight (motor, saildrive and propeller)	190 kg /
Unit dimensions (incl. motor and saildrive)	H: 1101 mm /43.3″ • W: 400 / 15.75″ mm • D: 853 mm / 33.6″
Boat Length	up to 21 m (70 ft)
Boat Weight	up to 25 000 kg (27.5 US Tons)
Cooling	Liquid

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Volt Electric 18 12 Pass | Capt | $990 2 Hours

Description

The 18’ 2025 Volt Electric boat is a cutting-edge watercraft that combines innovative technology with sustainable energy solutions. With a focus on electric propulsion, the Volt 180 offers a clean and efficient alternative to traditional gasoline-powered boats. This model is designed to provide a smooth and quiet ride while minimizing environmental impact. Enjoy a comfortable, slow cruise under the optional sunshade.

Equipped with advanced features and a sleek design, the 18' 2025 Volt Electric boat represents a step forward in the evolution of eco-friendly marine transportation. Join Yacht Hampton in its efforts towards sustainability as Yacht Hampton is quickly becoming the national leader in electric boats.

Additional Information

Volt electric prices, prices include vessel, charged battery, captain, ice & water, 1 hour - $990.

Food, beverages and alcohol are NOT included

Gratuity is recommended and appreciated!

Prices on holiday weekends are 12.5% higher than shown

Departure Information

DEPARTURE TIMES We generally depart from Sag Harbor at any of these 4 times

10am – 2pm 2:30pm – 6:30pm 7:00pm – 10pm Sunset Cruise

7 days a week starting May 1st, until October 15th. Due to the high demand, we must depart at these times in June, July and August and on weekends. Weekdays, we will have more flexibility with start times.

DEPARTURE ADDRESS

Yacht Hampton Boat Club & Marina

51 Pine Neck Ave. Sag Harbor, NY 11963

Please Note: We generally do pickup and drop-off from the same location. If you wish to stay at a destination location, you will be responsible to arrange transportation back to your car or home.

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Contemporary electric boat.

Elegant & Highly Functional

110-220V Compatible

Crafted with a high standard of quality and comfort.

The fully electric sporty looking Volt is powered with cutting-edge technology which provides optimal range and an incredibly smooth eco-friendly ride. To maximize durability and ensure accessibility, The Volt 180 features outboard propulsion, lithium batteries with bluetooth monitoring, and a 110V inboard charger.

Charge Anywhere

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Get your volt without any top to enjoy the sun all the time.

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A simplistic yet sturdy modern shade structure, easy to remove.

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JBL Bluetooth Marine Soundsystem

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Custom designed table with wine glass holders and cup holders.

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Make your boat unique with matching color hardware.

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What Voltage should a Marine Battery Read When Fully Charged?

By: Author Misty Compton

Posted on Published: December 31, 2021  - Last updated: August 21, 2023

It’s important to check your marine battery before taking off and after it’s been sitting for a couple of weeks or months. One in ten calls for help happens because of a dead battery or other electrical problem. 

The voltage your marine battery should read when fully charged depends on the size of your motorboat’s battery. A 12-volt marine battery should read 14.4 volts when fully charged, while a 24-volt marine battery should read 28.7 volts when fully charged.  

With that said, there are other important facts about marine batteries you should also keep in mind. This includes the difference between the voltage of a full charge battery and float voltage.

Table of Contents

How Do You Tell if a Marine Battery is Fully Charged?

What should a 24-volt marine battery read when fully charged, float voltage for gel cell marine battery, float voltage for agm marine battery, float voltage for wet cell marine battery, float voltage for lithium marine battery, what voltage is too low for a 12-volt marine battery.

Most people read the voltmeter gauge located at the helm or boat’s steering wheel, to tell if a marine battery is fully charged. However, this is not always the most accurate reading.

Expert boaters use what’s called a digital multimeter tool    that attaches directly to the marine battery. To use this handy tool, simply power it on and set the meter to DC volts. From there you’ll place the probes onto the battery terminals and note the reading. 

Your most accurate reading of a marine battery is by checking it under load with the digital multimeter tool. Have someone crank the starter while you monitor the multimeter on the battery terminals.

If the reading on your multimeter drops below 9.6 volts while under load , then it’s a telltale sign that your battery is taking its last few breaths. 

What Voltage Should a Marine Battery Read When Fully Charged?

Most motorboats run on a 12-volt marine battery. So for a 12-volt marine battery, it should read 14.4 volts when fully charged .

Now with that said, it’s important to remember that a 12-volt battery will only be over 14 volts for a few seconds while it’s being charged. After your marine battery is fully charged it will naturally decrease a couple of volts which is considered the float voltage .

Below is a chart that shows you the number of volts on a 12-volt battery and what they indicate.

12.65 – 12.77 volts	The battery is fully charged
12.45 – 12.54 volts	75 percent battery charge
12.24 – 12.29 volts	50 percent battery charge
11.99 – 12.06 volts	25 percent battery charge
11.75 – 11.89 volts	The battery is almost dead

If your battery is twice the size, meaning you have a 24-volt marine battery, then it should read 28.7 volts when fully charged . Similar to what we said about the 12-volt battery, a charge over 28 volts will only be there while the battery is charging. 

Once the battery is no longer charging, it’s natural for it to dip down a couple of volts. Similar increments in volts as the 12-volt battery can be applied here. 

On average, a 24-volt marine battery should read approximately 24.96 on a multimeter tool    when it is fully charged. On the flip side, a 24-volt battery voltage is empty at approximately 21.96 on a digital multimeter.

What Should a Float Voltage be on a Marine Battery?

According to MasterVolt , your float voltage is determined by the type of marine battery that you have. There are three lead-acid batteries and one lithium marine battery. The three lead-acid battery types are wet cell, gel cell, and absorbed glass mat (AGM).

The float voltage for a gel cell battery is 13.8 volts for a 12-Volt battery. For a 24-Volt battery, you are looking at a float voltage of 27.6 volts.

Both the gel cell and AGM marine battery have the same float voltage. So, the float voltage for an AGM battery is 13.8 volts for a 12-Volt battery and 27.6 volts for a 24-Volt battery.

The float voltage for a wet cell marine battery is 13.25 volts for a 12-Volt battery. For a 24-Volt battery, your float voltage will be 26.5 volts.

For a 12-Volt lithium marine battery, the float voltage will be 13.5 volts. On a 24-volt lithium battery, the float voltage is 27 volts.

	13.8 volts	27.6 volts
	13.8 volts	27.6 volts
	13.25 volts	26.5 volts
	13.5 volts	27 volts

A voltage level below 11.6 volts should be your cutoff for a 12-volt marine battery. This holds true for all three lead-acid battery types. Operating a battery at 11.6 or lower can damage your battery for good. 

The absolute lowest level that a 12-Volt marine battery can go under load is 10.8 volts. However, just because you can run that low, doesn’t mean you should. Stick with the 11.6 volts to be safe!

Like we mentioned before when your multimeter drops below 9.6 volts while under load , then your battery is practically dead. 

We hope we’ve answered your questions regarding what voltage a marine battery should read when fully charged. It’s valuable to remember that a full marine battery charge is at its highest level when being charged and then it dips down a bit in its floating charge.

• What Should The Voltage Be On a 12-Volt Marine Battery?
• Does a New Marine Battery Need to be Charged?
• Can a Dead Marine Battery Be Charged?

Whether you own a 12-volt or 24-volt marine battery, always make sure to test the charge of your battery before you leave the docks. Stay safe out there folks!

Amazon best-selling author & coauthor, Misty Compton is an outdoor enthusiast, raised on water sports, fitness, and writing. CEO of two companies, Daggerwing Publishing House LLC and Organized Otter Administrative Support LLC, she writes and edits content providing great reads, and assists companies remotely by helping them get organized.

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Environment friendly yachting solutions.

At VALENCIA Marine Services SLU, we specialize in marine electric conversions, using the latest technologies and techniques to transform traditional boats into fully electric vessels.

Our team of experienced technicians will work with you to design and install a custom electric propulsion system that meets your specific needs and budget.

Our electric conversion services include everything from selecting the right battery system and motor to installing solar panels for charging and integrating the latest control systems for optimal performance.

We also offer a range of other electrical services, including:

• lighting systems,
• communication systems,
• navigation systems, and
• entertainment systems.

In addition to the environmental benefits of electric boating, there are also significant economic advantages. Electric propulsion systems are highly efficient and require less maintenance than traditional gasoline engines, saving you money on fuel costs and repairs over time.

At VALENCIA  Marine Services SLU, we are committed to providing the highest standards of quality and safety in all of our work. We use only the highest quality components and materials, and our installations are rigorously tested to ensure optimal performance and reliability.

If you are interested in converting your watercraft to full electric, contact us today to schedule a consultation. Our team of experts will work with you to develop a customized plan for your electric conversion project, and help you enjoy a cleaner, quieter, and more efficient boating experience.

The future is electric!

What we do?

• Electric Boat Conversion: Converting a traditional gasoline-powered watercraft to an electric watercraft involves several steps, including selecting an appropriate electric motor, batteries, and control systems. The conversion process also includes removing the internal combustion engine, fuel tanks, and exhaust system, and installing the new electric components.
• Marina Charger Installation: To charge an electric boat, you'll need a charger installed at your marina. There are many factors to consider when selecting a charger, such as the type of battery, charging speed, and power requirements. Our  professional electricians or marine technicians can help you select and install the appropriate charger for your electric boat.
• Technical Support: There are many resources available to provide support for electric boat conversions and marina charger installations. Our companies are specialized in watercraft  conversions and offer installation services, maintenance support, administrative and technical assistance.

Electric motor

The first step in converting a boat or yacht to electric power is to install an electric motor. There are many types of electric motors available, including DC and AC motors, and choosing the right one will depend on the size and type of boat.

Battery Bank

In order to power the electric motor, a battery bank will need to be installed. The size of the battery bank will depend on the range and speed desired, as well as the size of the boat.

Charging system

A charging system will need to be installed in order to keep the battery bank charged. This can include solar panels, shore power, or a generator.

Regeneration

Many electric motors have the ability to regenerate power while sailing or motoring, which can help to extend the range of the boat.

Retrofitting

 Retrofitting your boat or yacht.

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Boat Electrics: The Demands of the Domestic System

The subject of boat electrics is a complex one, but the bottom line is that the current draw, battery bank capacity and charging regime must all be matched for the 12volt system to function satisfactorily.

Here we deal with the first part of that equation; calculating the current draw of your of the domestic circuit of the boat electrics over a typical 24 hour period.

Once this is known it's straightforward to assess the required size of the domestic battery bank.

And with that knowledge we can readily calculate the battery charging regime necessary to prevent undue strain on the batteries and keep the whole electrical system ticking over.

Boat Electrics ~ Assessing the Daily Current Draw

To calculate our daily domestic electrical requirement we must first make a list of all electrical equipment on board, and apply a current rating to each item.

If you've got a battery monitor installed in the system and capable of being switched to read amps - like the one shown here - you'll be able, by turning on one item at a time, to read the actual current draw for each item - otherwise you'll have to use a multimeter, or work it out.

Ratings can usually be found on equipment nameplates or in their manuals, and will be expressed in terms of power (measured in watts) or current draw (measured in amps). The relationship between power and current is expressed as: Power (W) = Current (A) x System Voltage (V) To derive amps from watts, simply transpose this equation and divide the wattage by the system voltage.

For example, a 6 watt navigation light bulb in a 12 volt system will draw 0.5 amps - which, if it's switched for ten hour each day when underway will have consumed 5 amp-hours (Ah).

Continuing in this vein for each item of equipment will produce a table much like that shown below, which incidentally, is the one I did for my boat Alacazam.

This calculation though, remains an estimate. For example:

• in cold weather the fridge will draw less power than in hot weather;
• in rough weather the autopilot would use more power than when it's calm;
• hours of darkness will vary with latitude and time of year, affecting current draw for navigation and domestic lighting;
• you'll use the watermaker more when you've got guests aboard etc, etc;
• plus there are start-up currents and other losses that have been ignored.

So it's approximate, but indicates that you'll need to replace around 325Ah each day when you're sailing and 211Ah when you're at anchor.

The underway current consumption clearly presents the worst case scenario, with more power being consumed during the night than during the day. In this example the domestic battery bank will be drawn down by 175Ah during the hour night-time hours - an average discharge of around 14.6A over 12 hours.

So what's the difference between amps (A) and amp-hours (Ah)?

The best way to explain it is by example...

If an appliance drawing 5A was to run for 1 hour, its consumption would amount to 5Ah.

This would be the same as an appliance drawing 1A running for 5 hours - again the consumption would be 5Ah.

So amp-hours are simply the (average) amperage drawn multiplied by the time in hours.

Boat Electrics ~ Power Conservation

In our example there're several things that could be done to reduce the daily consumption:

• LED (light emitting diode) lights. These draw a fraction of the current taken by a standard incandescent light and have an exceptionally long service life. I reckon if the anchor light, tricolour, cockpit light and cabin lights were replaced with LED's then at least 15amps could be shaved off the underway consumption and a similar amount off when at anchor. A further benefit of a combined anchor/tricolour LED light is that you won't have to scoot up the mast to change a blown bulb - a prospect I view with increasing dismay these days.
• The autopilot. If you had windvane self-steering it wouldn't use any power at all, reducing the daily drawdown by a whopping 31%.
• The freshwater pump. Turn it off on passage and use the hand pumps.

You might like to take a look at these...

Understanding Boat Batteries and Onboard Electrics

Sizing your boat batteries to match your 12 volt electrical requirement is only half the story; you need to align your charging capability too. Here's how to get everything right

Will a Marine Solar Panel Make Much Difference to Battery Charging?

Fitting a marine solar panel isn't always the most cost effective 'green energy' method of charging your boat's batteries. If you're thinking of fitting them you should read this first

Controlled Marine Battery Charging for Reliable Onboard Electrics

Here's how to ensure that your marine battery charging regime properly matches the capacity of your boat's battery banks and keeps pace with the daily current draw down.

Which Deep Cycle Marine Battery Best Fits Your 12V Power Requirement?

A Deep Cycle Marine Battery is definitely the way to go, but which type is best? A liquid lead acid boat battery or one of the Valve-Regulated Lead Acid (VRLA) types? Find out here!

Daily Current Draw Calculator

Calculate your Amperage Requirement with this Daily Current Draw Calculator and use this information in selecting the Appropriate Battery for your Boat

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• Should Your Boat’s DC Electrical System Be 12 or 24 Volt?—Part 1

In earlier chapters we have already figured out how much battery capacity we need, now we need to look at the optimal voltage for our needs: 12, 24, or even 48.

We should do this analysis before we consider adding any of the high-current (amperage)-drawing devices that are becoming common today:

• Electric in-mast or in-boom roller furling
• Bow and stern thrusters
• Electric winches
• Electric cooking
• And on it goes

You will notice that I did not list electric windlasses. The reason is they will almost always be used when the engine is on and the alternator charging, so even a big one is practical on 12-volt boats. That said, 24-volt boat voltage makes windlass installation easier—more in Part 2.

And I left air conditioning off because anyone who thinks they can appreciably cool a boat and keep it that way for long powered by the batteries should move to Canada for two reasons:

• It’s cooler
• That stuff you are smoking is legal

Now that we know why we need to look at the base DC voltage of our boats, let’s dig into a little theory so we understand why higher boat system voltages are required for high loads, and further, to give us a basis to calculate the crossover between 12 and 24-volt systems.

Yeah, I know, theory is boring. Stop your whining. You know from past bitter experience that I’m going to subject you to this before I get to the fun stuff, so grab a Red Bull so you don’t nod off, and let’s do it.

The power consumed by a device to do work—spin a motor, heat the tea, light a light, whatever—is measured in watts.

For example, a single induction ring turned full up consumes 1500 watts or 1.5 kW regardless of voltage .

At 120 volts (AC mains current in North America) there will be 12.5 amps passing through the wires feeding the ring. How do I know that?

watts=volts x amps therefore: amps=watts / volts Or in this case: 12.5 = 1500 / 120

In the case of our induction ring at AC mains voltages, 12.5 amps can be passed along quite a small wire—as is typical for plug-in portable household appliances—that is inexpensive, flexible, and generally not a problem.

But on most boats we are saddled with 12 volts. So now we plug our induction ring into an inverter and the math changes:

1500 watts / 12 volts = 125 amps!

Actually, it’s worse than that because inverters have inefficiencies of at least 5%, and many are more inefficient than that. So let’s say 10%, so our 125 amps becomes about 140 amps.

Required Wire Size

We can calculate the wire size required to pass that many amps thusly:

• Decide how much voltage drop over the length of the cable between the batteries and inverter—both conductors (negative and positive) added together—we will accept.
• A good standard for applications like this is 3%.
• Use ohms law to calculate the resistance that will yield that voltage drop from one end to the other of the wire.
• Divide that by the number of meters of wire.
• Look up what cable size has that resistance per meter—known as resistivity —or slightly less, and that’s the cable we need.

Was that snoring I heard? Suck up that Red Bull.

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More Articles From Online Book: Electrical Systems For Cruising Boats:

• Why Most New-To-Us Boat Electrical Systems Must Be Rebuilt
• One Simple Law That Makes Electrical Systems Easy to Understand
• How Batteries Charge (Multiple Charging Sources Too)
• 5 Safety Tips For Working on Boat DC Electrical Systems
• 7 Checks To Stop Our DC Electrical System From Burning Our Boat
• Cruising Boat Electrical System Design, Part 1—Loads and Conservation
• Cruising Boat Electrical System Design, Part 2—Thinking About Systems
• Cruising Boat Electrical System Design, Part 3—Specifying Optimal Battery Bank Size
• Balancing Battery Bank and Solar Array Size
• The Danger of Voltage Drops From High Current (Amp) Loads
• Should Your Boat’s DC Electrical System Be 12 or 24 Volt?—Part 2
• Battery Bank Separation and Cross-Charging Best Practices
• Choosing & Installing Battery Switches
• Cross-Bank Battery Charging—Splitters and Relays
• Cross-Bank Battery Charging—DC/DC Chargers
• 10 Tips To Install An Alternator
• Stupid Alternator Regulators Get Smarter…Finally
• WakeSpeed WS500—Best Alternator Regulator for Lead Acid¹ and Lithium Batteries
• Smart Chargers Are Not That Smart
• Replacing Diesel-Generated Electricity With Renewables, Part 1—Loads and Options
• Replacing Diesel-Generated Electricity With Renewables, Part 2—Case Studies
• Efficient Generator-Based Electrical Systems For Yachts
• Battery Bank Size and Generator Run Time, A Case Study
• A Simple Way to Decide Between Lithium or Lead-Acid Batteries for a Cruising Boat
• Eight Steps to Get Ready For Lithium Batteries
• Why Lithium Battery Load Dumps Matter
• 8 Tips To Prevent Lithium Battery Black Outs
• Building a Seamanlike Lithium Battery System
• Lithium Batteries Buyer’s Guide—BMS Requirements
• Lithium Batteries Buyer’s Guide—Balancing and Monitoring
• Lithium Batteries Buyer’s Guide—Current (Amps) Requirements and Optimal Voltage
• Lithium Battery Buyer’s Guide—Fusing
• Lithium Buyer’s Guide—Budget: High End System
• Lithium Buyer’s Guide—Budget: Economy Options
• 10 Reasons Why Hybrid Lithium Lead-Acid Systems are a Bad Idea
• 11 Steps To Better Lead Acid Battery Life
• How Hard Can We Charge Our Lead-Acid Batteries?
• How Lead Acid Batteries Get Wrecked and What To Do About It
• Equalizing Batteries, The Reality
• Renewable Power
• Wind Generators
• Solar Power
• Watt & Sea Hydrogenerator Buyer’s Guide—Cost Performance
• Battery Monitors, Part 1—Which Type Is Right For You?
• Battery Monitors, Part 2—Recommended Unit
• Battery Monitors, Part 3—Calibration and Use
• Battery Containment—Part 1

I’ve generally used 1.5 kW as the threshold for saying “yeah, you really need to go to 24 V”. 2 kW, intermittently, might be OK at 12 V, but beyond that you’re just asking for trouble. It’s not just the wiring, it’s everything else; inverters, motors, etc. are much harder to make efficient and reliable at very high currents and low voltages.

Any more than 100 amps on a single wire – at any voltage – is getting into the kind of serious territory where deviations from perfect installation, or degradation / corrosion over time, become significant problems in very short order.

I am totally OK with recommending, and using, 12 V systems as long as the total concurrent load is below 1.5 kW, maybe 2 kW tops, and no single device except the engine starter ever draws more than 100 A. (A thousand-watt windlass would normally draw 80 A and have a 100 A breaker.) Beyond that, you really need to pick a system architecture that fits what you’re trying to do.

And we get 450 amps at 12 volts or 5.4 kW. Fire up the app…tells us we need…there is no wire big enough to pass that many amps at 12 volts.

Sure there is! Beyond 4/0 you can get European / Asian wire measured in mm^2 or American wire measured in circular mils (kcmil). 450 amps wants 700 kcmil wire, which is a hair under an inch thick, weighs two and a half pounds per foot, and is cut & crimped by a special version of the fireman’s “Jaws of Life” tool. It needs half-inch bolts torqued as tight as car wheel lugs, and the electrical arc formed at any imperfect connection is stronger than the one used to weld freighter hull plates together. Fun!

Love your last paragraph, really puts it in perspective. If we all decide to do that I’m thinking it’s time for a substantial investment allocation to copper futures.

And I agree that 1.5 kW is a good place to start thinking about 24 volts.

There were three reasons I put a 40 amp charger and two Group 27 batteries in my forepeak workshop for my 1500W Lofrans windlass, the draw of which is “on your bubble” for current all by itself. 1) I didn’t want to run heavy cabling to and from the main bank and put a hole in the collision bulkhead; by keeping the runs as short as they are, I can use 2 ga. on a round trip of under four metres; 2) I didn’t want to affect the rest of the DC system running the windlass, even with the engine running; 3) I wanted two fully charged batteries I could use in a pinch if my main bank went south. This is clearly not a popular course to take, but keeping those two batteries charged, either through inversion on a sunny day, shore power or running a Honda generator on deck is straightforward and the batteries have a lot of reserve to haul or lower chain and SPADE effectively.

And there was me thinking perhaps ruin multiple wires in parallel.

Yup. Even with a minimalist electric cooking setup, it was obvious to me that 12v was never going to cut mustard. The 1.5kw or about 120 amps sustained in any one conductor rule of thumb is a good one.

Hence I’ve gone completely down the 24v route on a very mid-sized boat and not regretted it for an instant. I haven’t found any modern equipment that I wanted which didn’t either support a wide 10 – 30vDC input range, or had a 24vDC option.

The other cool thing I found was that my conductor sizes for most loads are now around 4mm or less, which means you can start using multicore cable in lots of places. This tidies up the install quite a lot.

Like Nancy Reagan, just say no (to 12V).

It’s not that simple (is it ever) more coming in part 2.

There’s also an option of going to 48V system. I hear automotive industry is moving to 48V system voltage. That means there will be an abundance of 48V accessories any day now. Victron also makes a 48V inverter.

That said, it’s really early adopter territory with all that entails.

I cover 48 volts in Part 2.

Question: why include the thrusters? Aren’t they, like the windlass, only run along with the engine?

Hi Michael,

That’s true, but most thrusters have power draw that is much higher that a windlass. Think two to four times higher. Given that while the engine alternator will help a bit, the voltage drop to the thruster from the alternator at 12 volts wipes out most of the benefit.

Even a small 12 V thruster, like a Lewmar TT140, draws 150 to 180 amps and needs at least 2/0 cabling. One suitable for a 45′ cruiser – say, a Lewmar TT185 – can be over 400 amps at 12 V, with perhaps a hundred and fifty pounds of wire going to the bow and back.

At that kind of current, the little bit of help you get from the engine’s alternator doesn’t really matter. You have to size the cabling, fuses, etc. for hundreds of amps, and you have to size the battery bank so that the voltage drop from turning the thruster on doesn’t put all your electronics into “undervolt – reboot” state even with the engine running.

A 12 volt windlass, at least under about 1200 watts or so, is at or near the 100 amp mark. Its cabling must be sized and fused for that, but with a 40 to 80 amp alternator turning, it’s much less likely to have the “flipping this switch drops the main bus voltage so low that everything else shuts down” problem.

Anyone make a bow thruster powered by a small petrol engine? Getting 400A (or even 200A) all the way from the batteries to the bow sounds heavy and risky.

PD, Yes, for me it was called my inflatable powered by my outboard and used as a yawl boat. Amazing how effective it was at pushing (or pulling) the bow around. I was pleased not to have gone swimming handling the dinghy, the engine and the line to the bow: it was competition for a Charlie Chaplin scene. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

It”d be great fun for a single-hander 😉

Yikes, adding petrol? No thruster is worth that. Why not just go without?

We have a whole book on how to handle your boat without a thruster: https://www.morganscloud.com/category/docking-tying-up/online-book-docking/

Phyllis and I have been handling our boat (56-feet) for nearly 30 years without any big problems and without a thruster.

I have also single handed quite a bit without problems.

When we got our first single-screw inboard, I was worried about how hairy things might get around the docks without a thruster, after three decades of usually having vectored thrust. The e-book John linked above, plus a few hours of touch-and-go on an empty dock, solved that. Now, I’ll choose a 16,000 lb boat with a single inboard and a “magic springline” over a 600 lb boat with vectored thrust and no springline, easy.

Yes, the change from vectored thrust to inboards is a big one, no more swinging the outboard at the last moment and bringing the stern in with a burst of reverse. That said, particularly with sailboats, being able to still steer in neutral is great. The configuration I find most challenging is single screw motorboats with small rudders. On the other hand, once I got the hang of it, twin screw motorboats are a treat, and the easiest of all is a power cat with outboards, again, once I got the hang of it.

The saddest thing I see is a twin screw power boat with bow and sometimes even stern thrusters.

I actually think any cruising boat should consider going to a 24 V system. It’s just better, and more future proof. The following isn’t directly relevant, some of it is even definitely off topic, but might give perspective:

My work is with electric tourist boats in Amsterdam. The smallest ones have nominally 10 kiloWatt motors, in reality about 8 kW / 11 Hp. (Far more powerful than it sounds.) They’re just at the limit of what’s possible on their 48 Volt battery banks. Our bigger boats have 20 kW motors, about 27 Hp and need 96 Volt banks. Lower voltage makes the systems ridiculously big. Higher voltage actually also saves a significant amount of money in smaller cables, chargers, etc.

In the not too far future, most boats will have electric motors. Our 48 V and 96 V motors are quite big and heavy (not compared to a diesel, of course). The 20 kW motors weigh about 50 kilos and are a cylinder with about 25 cm diameter and 35 cm length. (1 foot is 30,48 cm.)

Next generation electric motors are already available. I’ve seen one first hand. It was the same about 25 cm diameter, less than a foot, but only 10 cm long/thick, and it delivered a continuous power of 80 kW / 107 Hp with instant insane torque. So, all that power in the form factor of a small stack of dinner plates. However, this comes with one caveat: It needs at least 700 Volt.

We won’t see battery banks anywhere near 700 Volt anytime soon. That will come from inverters etc. Also, we won’t be able to store such amounts of power in our batteries anytime soon. No point having a motor we can use for five minutes. Watts are the same, no matter what voltage delivers it. The point of mentioning this is to illustrate the “magic” of higher voltages. There’s no doubt that we’re moving towards generally much higher voltages for all high power applications.

I think the normal house bank of near future cruisers will be 48 Volt and that it’ll be the only battery on the boat, perhaps with the addition of a small emergency backup battery that has no other jobs. It just rests at a safe storage charge, and can be quickly connected to only the critical circuits when the main is disconnected. A much simpler, more efficient and reliable system.

As I’m already way off topic in this praising the higher voltage and electric motors rant: Electric motors (of a good design) have no oil, no gears, no nothing. The motors just don’t need service and are incredibly reliable. Some of our 20 kW motors have passed 30 000 hours running time, and are still like new. Only service has been exchange the coolant fluid every second year. The 2 axle bearings have been exchanged once on 3 of them. That’s the only wear parts. And then there is the “fuel” price of about one tenth of diesel. For us, diesel is totally out of the question.

This will be reality for cruisers too, sooner than we may expect. Some places regulations will speed it up, like here in Amsterdam, but mostly the transition will come because boaters like the improvement. Here many are already rebuilding even boats that have no regulatory motivation.

I really don’t want to go down the electric drive rabbit hole yet again on this post. We have already done that to death and the key point is that whether or not it’s practical is usage profile. For your usage where you can plug the boat in every night, absolutely. For long distance cruisers it depends on profile. Thinking about a post on that so let’s leave the subject for that time. Thanks

Hi John, been awhile since I have commented. This topic is timely as I watch boaters burning up their electric systems trying to add creature comforts to improper boat grids. I am old enough now to have experienced this coming full circle. Back in the 50’s and 60’s we were all 32vdc. Why, because locomotives and trains were. Bulbs, DC motors, and generators were readily available. A basic system used four 8v 8D batteries. When one needed 12v to power a radio or other 12v appliance you simply tapped after the second cell on the second battery. Even back then a 12v automotive starter wouldn’t start a Diesel engine. After the 60’s there was an explosion in Automotive accessories and wide use of alternators for battery charging. Diesels became smaller and lighter. 12v systems became the norm with lighter, less expensive components. Converting a 12v boat to 24vdc will prove much more difficult than coming down from 32v but needed and well worth doing.

Great to have you back! And thanks for the fill on 32 volts. I wondered why the App I linked to had that option, now I know. In many ways it’s a pity we did not stick with it.

I was also wondering why Electrodyne had 32 volt alternators – now I know.

We have electric cooking on our boat.

Three 800 watt induction burners and a 1400 watt electric oven. Cooktops are made by Pantin. Oven is Unox Roberta.

12v system 3200 watt inverter 720 watts of solar 600 amp hours of LifePo4 batteries .

24 amp hrs used to boil pasta for 4 20 amp hrs for the sauce.

Once everything is cooking i turn the cooktops down to maintain temps .

This is the hardest use we do for the cooktop .

The oven takes 12 amp hrs to preheat and holds 325 degrees for around 25 amp hours for an hour at this temperature. The oven is very well insulated and commercial grade.

Yes I have shares in a copper mine all the cabling is over sized . The Inverter is 4 foot away from the bank with 4/0 cabling .

Would never go back to propane

If you are willing to cook that little I guess it will work but unless you have a generator usage must be more limited than most of us would be willing to put up with.

Yes I have a generator , sort of . It’s used for charging the batteries and making water only , it’s a dc setup . We are heading for the tropics as soon as this pandemic is under control and we can all travel again . So cold things will be the order of the day . Even so the electric setup works for us and we gained a locker we’re the propane tanks were . I honestly never thought of going electric until I saw S/V Delos doing it and having great results . Regards John

Hi John, What kind of generator do you have? Thanks, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Hi Dick I designed and built my own DC generator based on a Kohler 8KW generator that was wired up wrong and fried the electrical side of the unit. I acquired the engine, a 15 hp 3 cylinder yanmar with the governor which enables to unit to run steady at 1800 rpm just like a generator , from that i coupled a Eco-Tech alternator directly to the crank shaft , no belts and no side loads. The alternator makes 225 amps when hot at 1800 rpm . Above that I mounted a HydraCell D10 high pressure water pump pump to drive the water maker , these are ideal pumps for that purpose , they can run dry and the oil end is complete separated from the wet end, unlike the usual piston pumps that introduce small amounts of oil into the water as it passes through . No good for the membranes. Produces 40 gallons an hour . But they are not cheap. . The solutions are there but you have to do your research and source top quality parts for the least amount of compromises in any design .

Regards John.

O yes , after reading your next response , yes I think I have invested well over 30000$ in this system with the water maker and cabling/switching/solar. So it is a significant investment to get it right . Our boat is 45 feet And able to accommodate all the gear .

Thanks for being clear on the realities. Both refreshing, and distressingly rare.

OMG, John, this is sooo timely for me! We’re re-kitting our recently purchased 36′ steel expedition sailboat. Our galley is half ripped out and I need to replace our house battery bank. Work is on hold, however, while I discuss (read argue) with my 1st Mate/chef about her desire to convert the galley from from Propane to all-electric. I’ve been crunching numbers to reach a consensus on if/how this can be made feasible with our boat and budget.

Yesterday we cooked a typical “quick” meal (at our terra firma home base) on an Instant Pot and boiled 4 cups of water on an induction plate, using a Kill-A-Watt meter to keep the score. The Instant Pot used 0.13 kWh. The plate consumed 0.11 kWh. So, 0.24 kWh = 240 Wh x 1.05 (efficiency losses) = 252 Wh/12V = 21 Ah of battery capacity. 3 “quick” hot meals per day (is that being extravagant?) = 63 Ah. We gulped when we realized that this amounts to 15% of our 420Ah of battery capacity on our four Group 31 Lead Acid AGMs. That only leaves another 63Ah of capacity for all other loads before we bring the battery bank down to their safe limit of 70% DOD. In our current set-up, the fridge, watermaker, lighting, fans and electronics already draw so much energy that we have issues on some days, even with 350W of solar and a wind turbine. Adding even these conservative galley loads seems pretty daunting and that’s just considering the battery capacity. The impact on the boat’s cable sizes and risk of blowing fuses /starting fires adds another worrisome wrinkle.

A switch to 24VDC architecture certainly is attractive at first glance. I’m sure the devil is in the details, however, and you’re great at rooting out devils. For example, what’s the most reliable and cost effective way to connect the boat’s existing 12VDC devices into a 24VDC architecture? Ooops, I’m front running!

Please don’t wait too long to publish Part 2. The winter solstice is just ten days away and Spring seems to be just around the corner. No, I’m not a glass-half-full kinda guy. I’m just so full of projects right now i.e. building a new rudder, stripping and re-coating the hull’s bottom, new through-hulls, new holding tank, new battery bank location and restraints, as well as aforementioned galley, that time is flying by!

Good on you for doing realistic analysis before jumping in to electric cooking. The bottom line is a battery bank that small is not going to support electric cooking and changing voltage will not fix that. Changing to 24 volts only reduces required wire sizes, it does not add battery capacity, although it is required for realistic electric cooking.

As I have said in earlier posts, the only way you could get a bank to support realistic electric cooking on a boat that size is lithium and you would also need a generator since solar and wind will never cover it. See the previous posts for the math supporting this.

Also note that if you plan to live aboard, unless you are food agnostic (some people are) you will do far more cooking than your experiments. Think at least three to four times more.

Bottom line, this is simply not going to work on your boat unless you spend at least US$30,000 on doing it right and even then it makes no sense, or at least not to me.

A number of years ago I was involved in building a series of 26 foot lobster yachts. At my insistence, we decided to switch from 12 to 24 volts during the construction process. We estimated the wire weight savings at about 1,000 lbs…

Needless to say I’m a huge proponent of 24 volt systems with the vessel length threshold, for me, at about 35 feet.

I understand it’s an easy decision for a new build. What about existing boats with a 12V system? Under what circumstances would you feel a conversion to 24V was justified?

With rare exceptions, I would not envision conversion as practical or cost effective.

And my previous post should have said “ A number of years ago I was involved in building a series of 36 foot lobster yachts.” 

If it’s a total refit – i.e. you are ripping out & replacing most of the existing equipment, installing new batteries, etc. – on a boat with the pedigree and value to justify this level of work and investment, then I think switching from 12 V to 24 v is worth considering.

For anything shy of that, you are looking at a lot of work, a lot of old used gear to re-sell for pennies on the dollar, and a lot of expensive new gear to install. I’d say either learn to live within the limitations of what you have, and not try to graft on more electrical loads than the 12 V system was designed to handle….. or sell that yacht and buy a different one whose electrical architecture is better suited to your demands.

We are starting to front run the next post. Let’s keep all of our thoughts on 24 volts for my post on just that. That way everyone’s wisdom will be where it will do the most good and help people for years to come. Hum, that last sentence sounds so familiar, I wonder why.

Interesting induction hob Ecoheat Smarttouch (Australian) has 500,1000 ,1500 and 1800W settings

I have two installations that might be of interest here. The first is 24v and we use a DC to DC power supply to provide 12v where required. This is very efficient and could easily be used to provide 12v on a yacht for all the relatively low power requirements eg lighting and instruments. On the down side I have had problems with keeping lead acid batteries in series balanced on a 24v system.

The second is a larger partial off grid application using a BMW i3 battery bank in units of 48v with all Victron equipment for solar charging and inverter. Bearing in mind that our max output is 10kW we still have 75mm2 cables connecting the inverter and its only a 4m run.

What about inverting all large loads to AC eg cooker,windlass, thruster etc. Cables can be 1/10 or even 1/20 the size (for Europeans) then. But can you get thrusters and windlass in AC? Amps are the real deal breaker with cable sizes – I think I saw that copper prices had reached a record high the other day.

Interesting idea, but I have not heard of yacht sized bow thrusters etc that run off AC. Also, to me at least, such a solution would be more complicated than I would want to see on an offshore boat.

And we will be covering DC-DC converters and 48 volts in part 2 so it would be good to have the benefit of your experience then.

At the risk of front-running a future instalment: You’ll have a hard time finding off-the-shelf thrusters, windlasses, etc. in yacht sizes wired for single-phase 120 V or 240 V AC. The way you’d do that is to buy the complete mechanical bits, without motor, from the marine hardware maker, and then buy an AC motor with the same mounting flange, plus a controller, separately from an industrial automation supplier. You’ll find a pretty firm ceiling at 2 hp for single-phase AC motors, beyond which almost everything is 3-phase. At that point, your main bus may as well all be 3ph AC and your systems engineering becomes much more like that of a small ship than a yacht. I would hazard a rough guess that the crossover point for an all 120/240 V 1ph approach to make sense is somewhere around 6 – 8 kW of concurrent loads, i.e. a factor of four higher than the point where we want to switch from a 12 V to a 24 V main bus, and doubling that again is sufficient justification for going to 120/208 V 3ph.

Not front running at all. I’m not even going there. As you say, that’s ship stuff. Actually, from what I have seen, when 24 volts won’t do the job hydraulics is the way to go. That’s what we had on the mega yacht I did a guide job to Greenland on some years ago and that’s how fishing boats handle really heavy motor loads.

You can do a lot with hydraulics – there is tremendous power density there (i.e. stuff is small for its strength), the technology’s been perfected over many decades of hard commercial service, and cooling is naturally combined with power delivery. That said, I’m seeing evidence of a push away from hydraulics in favour of 3-phase AC, now that 3-phase variable frequency drives are very good and relatively cheap. Hydraulic maintenance can get to be a real handful when you start trundling 55-gallon drums of oil around the dock and have to mop spills out of the bilge.

Most all the yachts over about 60 feet I have seen are hydraulic and many in the 50 to 60 foot range. My answer to all that? If you can’t handle the boat without getting this complex, buy a smaller boat.

What powers the hydraulics, an electric motor? Or are we talking about a main engine power take off?

We have a hydraulic takeoff from the gearbox because we have a hydraulic windlass and bowthruster. These work so much better than the electric versions. More power, use it as long as you like without thermal trips or burning things out and much more reliable. Of course we are limited to things that you use with the engine running though, so no hydraulic winch’s or reefing systems, but that suits us, prefer to do that by hand.

Most yachts that rely on hydraulics have a PTO on the main engine, often one on the generator, as well as an electric motor (usually 24 volt) driving a hydraulic pump. The result is a very complex system that I certainly don’t recommend. A friend of mine just had a fire in his hydraulic control circuitry and that after spending a bundle replacing it all.

Much better to just not have the gear that requires all this.

My 1200W windlass seems happy running on 12V LFP, Why must the engine be running?

Yes, we often run our windlass without the engine running too. It all depends on battery bank size, state of charge, as well as cable gauge and distance of the run. My reason for putting that in was to explain why a windlass is less of a problem than say an electric winch, but that does not mean that the engine must be running on every boat when the windlass is in use.

A bit off topic here but fits to windlass+engine – a lot of production boats I know (most notable from a respected french cat builder) have their windlass wired in a way it would only turn when the engine is running. An absolute no-go if you ask me…

Seriously? I agree a total no go and a disturbing indication of misunderstanding of cruising reality on the part of the builder.

I know for a fact that this is not a new trend. Our boat has been produced in late 70s – early 80s and the builder wired it exactly like that. I guess their only excuse is they were targeting charter market, not cruisers

That just makes it worse!

I couldn’t agree more. My French 46′ had this system and I fitted an override switch so the windlass could be operated without the engine running when required. The electrics are all 12v except for the bowthruster which is 24v with its batteries 4′ away.

Abuse the planet???

See https://www.morganscloud.com/2020/11/03/efficient-generator-based-electrical-systems-for-yachts/

See also: https://www.morganscloud.com/2020/09/16/hurricanes-what-the-blazes-and-taking-a-few-days-off/

What has this got to do with the planet?

Did you read the link to efficient generator article? The point is that by using a generator in that way you can save a huge amount of carbon and fuel when measured against starting the generator every time you need AC power, or worse still leaving it running in case you do. All explained in the linked article.

Still don’t see the connection to the planet.

Surely if we use much less fuel and create much less carbon than normal practice that’s good for the planet. Just like hybrid cars: not zero carbon, but way better than normal practice. Or for that matter electric cars that while zero carbon in and of themselves use a percentage of electricity that, depending on where you are, was generated by burning hydrocarbons. Perfect? No. Better? Yes.

OK You think carbon i harmful to the planet?

I don’t know where you are going with this, but I can’t see it going to a good place. Let’s leave it there shall we.

My wishlist for part 2 or 3 would be to cover Integrel Lite with 48V LiMnC-natteries. I recall the discussion around original Integrel when discussing generators, but I find their approach much more palatable when looking to save on copper with electric cooking. I.e. when assuming a small boat with high electricity usage.

I haven’t been following the market too closely, but it seems 48V accessories like bow thrusters and solar controllers are becoming more common by the minute. With the need for balancing, 48V Lithium with integrated BMS seems like the first reasonable upgrade from 12V. And hardly overkill for the 2kW ballpark?

While all good and admittedly really interesting and educational the feeling creeps up that the “attainable” from the sites title gets forgotten somehow.

How would “attainable” cruising fit together with complex and expensive 48V systems, hydraulic mainsail reefing and other expensive gear that gets discussed?

Sorry for the rant, though.

Not by me. Take a look through my recent articles and comments and count the number of times I have cautioned people to keep stuff simple. And one of the primary reasons I write articles like the one on induction cooking and then follow up with ones like the above is to explain how things can get complicated fast when we add gear without really thinking about the consequences.

I tool a quick look at Integrel Lite. My hope was that they had brought out a simpler 12 and/or 24 volt system using their controller and alternator. Sadly not the case. Integrel Lite is just a bit smaller version of Integral but it still, although very cool technology, has all of the issues I explain in my review: https://www.morganscloud.com/category/electrical/integril-review/

Hi Mikko, I agree with what has been said by others, that your suggestions seem to point towards expensive and complicated, given that it’s still very far from easy to find 48V appliances for boats. I mentioned our commercial electric drive boats far above. They have high voltages banks for their propulsion, but all other consumers on the boats are 12V or 24V (thrusters). The reason being that it’s far easier and cheaper, even when 48 V is already available.

As a side comment, be very critical to integrated lithium batteries, so called drop-in batteries, with BMS and connections inside a normal looking 12V battery box. Reasonably decent versions do exist, but are very rare and expensive. The standard issue of this layout is very very poor. The alternative is separate prismatic cells with separate BMS etc, which way more powerful and durable (think 2-4 times) while simultaneously being cheaper and, in real life, not harder to install.

For big DC loads like big inverters and windlasses, etc. 24 VDC makes complete sense. For smaller loads like entertainment systems, DC lighting, small water pumps, bilge pumps etc.. 12 VDC is much cheaper and more readily available at least in the in the US.

To power those DC loads use a split 12/24 battery bank and a Vanner Equalizer to keep both banks halves equally charged…. this is the same method transit busses have used for years.

You pull the 12 volt loads off the 1st half of the 24 volt bank. The 24 volt loads are suppled by the full bank. The Vanner Equalizer keeps the amp hours in and out of each half the same.

If you’re going to put as much electrical gear on a sailboat as power boats had not that many years ago….. approach it like a power boat. Wire it for VAC and supply your water makers, air conditioners, etc. from an inverter(s)….. or a Northern Lights generator.

Larger Sine Wave inverters are very inefficient at low loads…. idle draw is often around 3 amps @ 12VDC. For some appliances, like microwaves that have digital clocks that are a nuisance to reset, a smaller more efficient modified sine wave inverter is an option to power them… you can leave it on without the big parasitic draw….. save the big inverter for when you need it.

The key to all this is a large capacity battery bank…. and the charging capacity to go with it. Use the battery manufacturers guidance for “finish rate” (normally 3% to 5% of capacity) and be able to maintain that for the full cycle… figure you’ll put back 15% to 25% more than you’ve taken out.

Instead of the theoretical 4 hour 50% to 100% recharge time…. figure 5 hours.

To maximize engine life, run it at proper temperature, minimize the start-stop cycles (in aircraft that’s called heat cycles), use synthetic lubricants.

Modern “Over the Road” refrigeration generally uses small diesel engine powered compressors…… engine service intervals, oil and filter changes, etc. , run between 1000 and 4000 engine hours…. as compared to yacht engines averaging a 200 hour service interval.

Everyone has budgets…. my experience is sailboat batteries are usually destroyed by abuse… infrequently by equipment malfunction, rarely by life cycles.

I would rather replace much cheaper deep cycle lead acid wet cells than any of the more expensive alternatives. The key to this is the batteries being located so they are easily maintained.

As battery technology is rapidly evolving, that will probably change. Right now lead acid is still cheaper and safer.

Overall… remember boat size places physical limits on where you put all this gear. There are a lot of advantages to keeping it simple. But as we get older the more luxuries seem to become necessities.

I agree with a lot of what you say. The exception is building a hybrid 12-24 volt system by tapping off the the 24 volt bank. Sure it can work, but today I prefer a simple 24-12 power supply for the few things that must run on 12 volts, like NMEA 2000 networks, and make everything else 24 volt. Either that or cut back and stay 12 volt.

I also don’t think that transit busses are a model I would follow for boats since the usage profile is so different between the two: the bus alternator will be making power pretty much whenever power is required. A boat goes long periods with no charging.

I agree that liquid filled are often the best bet and still probably the least expensive on a per cycle basis. More here: https://www.morganscloud.com/2018/05/11/battery-options-part-2-lead-acid/

After being introduced to Vanner Equalizers many years ago by a major starter-alternator rebuilder, I’ve set up several yachts with Vanner Equalizers…. and have considered adding one to our boat.

In 15 years experience with Vanner’s, I’ve never seen one fail.

There are other manufacturers that supply DC-DC converters similiar to the Victron you mention. One problem with them that John stated is if they fail, you loose 12 volts.

If a Vanner fails, it is relatively easy to bypass it and pull the needed 12 volts directly off the batteries…. simply move a couple of wires.

Vanner’s are also available in capacities up to 100 amps @ 12 VDC.

The transit bus reference was just to point out their reliability….. they do have different operating conditions. However there is a lot of equipment used in yachts that originally was developed for use in other fields…. High output alternators in particular were not originally developed for yachts.

Remember commercially time is money. Reliability is paramount and should be on the water also.

Regarding Matt L’s comment….. Vanner’s were around when transit buses were powered by 2 cycle Detroit diesels…. the 2 cycle engines are gone, today’s electrical systems on transit buses, large motor homes, long haul trucks are even more demanding…. accordingly the Vanner’s are in even wider use.

There is always more than one way to do things….. I base my opinions on personal experience…. vocationally and avocationally.

A boat needs to be designed for a particular owners, intended use, talents (experience) and budget.

My personal experience includes years of cruising…. and working in the marine industry….. long term both yachts and ships.

To put my opinions in perspective…. I originally paid for my sailing avocation with 30+ years sailing as a marine engineer in the Merchant Marine, including Chief Engineer on 3 ships, both old and new build.

We cruised, and still own, a 54′ steel cutter Nelson-Marek designed for us. B efore that, w e cruised a gorgeous old 40′ wood boat . The Nelson-Marek started life as a simple 12 VDC boat that over the years has been gradually upgraded to now having reverse cycle air-conditioning.

No disrespect to John, but we prefer warmer climates.

We would still be cruising except my wife’s health changed….. that change lead to me working more in the yacht industry. Sailboats of all sizes up to 125′ and motor yachts up to 185′.

All good points, but I would still prefer not to use, nor would I recommend, a tap off system to produce 12 volts. Just like the simplicity of a 24-12 supply, as well as the added benefit of isolation of sensitive electronics.

I wanted to offer an insight into a real-world scenario working quite well with 12V, as implemented on my catamaran. I’m not bringing this as an argument against 24V, just as an indication that 12V-based systems need not be shunned, with just a modicum of non-traditional thinking.

I’m bypassing the discussion around winches, thrusters, and windlasses, as these have always functioned quite adequately with 12V, and function even better after I changed the location of the battery banks, to be closer to these consumers.

My battery bank consists of 20 180AH CALB LiFePO4 batteries, connected in series and parallell via 1/4″ thick copper bars. This bank is (almost) directly connected to the DC bus, which also consist of 1/4″ copper bar, bulkhead mounted. The “almost” is because of a 1,000 amp fuse between battery positive and bus, and a 500 amp shunt on the negative side (500 because of higher accuracy – shunt can easily handle peak loads of 1,000 amps).

I have three Victron 1,600 watt inverters, working in parallell, connected to the DC bus via 4″ and 6″ 4/0 cables (custom made on the boat, using TEMCo’s $20 hammer lug crimper). While pulling 5kW (inverters can handle up to 9kW peak load), there is a voltage drop from battery post to inverter of 0.03V (at about 450 amps) – negligible.

This setup is neither expensive nor difficult to pull off. However, having the threaded battery post configuration of these cells is what makes it easy to connect them via a bar.

Also note that instead of going up in cable size, if copper bars won’t do it for you, parallell runs of smaller cables will do the same job (ex: 1×4/0 = 2×1/0 = 8x6AWG).

Great article John – made for outstanding Saturday afternoon reading. If you forget a windless and electric winch in the discussion and just think about induction cooking, you are really talking about sizing the inverter (s) correctly as well and having a battery bank that is either set up for 12/24V or having a genset (or both). Since induction cooktops are running 120V/240V I am fuzzy on the wire gauge relative to the cooking set up since they all require AC. Thanks!

Not sure I understand your question. I do cover the theory of how wire size relates to amps and how that varies as voltage changes in the first part of the above article. Have a reread of that part and then if you still have a question I will see if I can answer it.

• Sports & Outdoors
• Electric Bicycles

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NCM Moscow Plus Electric Mountain Bike e Bike for Adults, 750W Powerful Hub Motor, 48V768Wh Large Removable Battery, USB Port, Hydraulic Disc Brake, 24 Speed Gear, Front Suspension, Fat Tire, 95 Miles

Brand Size	Rider Height (in)	Frame Size (in)	Wheel Size (in)
27.5	64 - 74	19	27.5
29	69 - 76	20	29

Bike Type	Mountain Bike
Age Range (Description)	Adult
Brand	NCM
Number of Speeds	24
Color	Matte Black
Wheel Size	27.5 Inches
Frame Material	Aluminum
Suspension Type	Front
Special Feature	Digital Display
Included Components	E-Bike Accessory Kit

About this item

• 🚴【STRONG POWER】: 500W Rated Power, 750W Peak Power, for adults electric with built-in 48V 16Ah rechargeable Lithium-Ion battery (about 5h charging time), riding range varies from 60miles to 95miles (depending on road conditions).
• 🚴【TOP-NOTCH BODY STRUCTURE】: Available in two sizes of tires (27.5"/29"); lockable aluminum suspension fork for less bumpy on rough roads; Aluminum alloy material for better durability. Sports style, streamlined matte surface, and simple decal style built an amazing look of these adult electric bicycles.
• 🚴【24-SPEED GEARS】: Front Derailleur 3-Speed + Rear Derailleur Altus 8-Speed; With the right gear, you can conquer any terrain with efficiency.
• 🚴【INTUITIVE LCD DISPLAY】: This ABS LCD display shows battery, assist levels, mileage, speed, and using time, allowing you to read your statistics with ease.
• 🚴【3 WORKING MODES】: Pure Electric Mode, Pedal-assist mode, normal bike mode. You can remove the battery to have a standard mountain bike that weighs less.

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From the brand

NCM ELECTRIC BIKE

E-MAGINE THE RIDE!

Since foundation in 2014, NCM's e-bikes have been stirring up the market. With a wide range of different models in the E-Trekking, E-MTB, E-Cruiser and E-Folding categories, we are quite diversified. This versatility seems to have its finger on the pulse of the times. Rapid growth and over 50,000 e-bikes sold in 2020 prove us right.

MOSCOW MOUNTAIN E-BIKE

C7 CITY E-BIKE

C5 CITY E-BIKE

ASPEN FAT TIRE E-BIKE

NCM Product Lines

Product description.

EXPLORE EVERY RIDE

In a nutshell – This bike is awesome! We’ve kept everything people love trail and gravel bikes and added street smarts, tech, and a little attitude to make the perfect do-it-all bike. The Moscow Plus continues to be a performance and value home-run, but most of all, this is a performance packed cycling machine at an unbeatable value.

You are probably wondering, who the heck are these guys? We are Leon Cycle and we are excited to bring our NCM bike line to North America. Founded in 2014, NCM Bikes have quickly become one of the largest Pedelec (Pedal Electric Cycle) and e-bike brands in Europe with the goals of expanding across multinational markets. NCM is the perfect brand to embark on your Pedelec experience, whether you are an avid cyclist or a newcomer.

POWER AND RANGE - EXPLORE EVERY RIDE

Our E-bikes are powered by our own developed Das-Kit driving systems that stand out from competition in 3 major ways: Patented one-cable controller system for ease of maintenance; High torque motors to flatten the steepest climbs; Compact and high-capacity batteries. Whether it is for beginners wanting to enter the world of electric bikes, experienced electric bike enthusiasts, or even returning cyclists, everyone can find the perfect electric bike!

• Das-kit , X15, Rear Drive 48V500W, 20MPH Motor
• Das-Kit , i5-4813, 48V 13Ah, 624Wh Battery with USB Port
• Tektro, Mechanical Disc Brake
• Schwalbe, Smart Sam , 27.5"×2.25" Tire
• Das-Kit L7, LCD Display
• NCM Velo, VL-3410 Saddle
• Top Speed: 20MPH Distance Per Charge: up to 95 Miles

The Das-Kit monster motor hub delivers 60Nm of full torque with 500w power and 48v voltage.	Easily removable battery allows for convenient charging. Built-in USB port allows for phone charging on the go.	The Das-Kit C7 high contrast advanced LCD display is complete and easy to read.

Product information

Technical details.

Bike Type	‎Mountain Bike
Age Range (Description)	‎Adult
Brand	‎NCM
Number of Speeds	‎24
Color	‎Matte Black
Wheel Size	‎27.5 Inches
Frame Material	‎Aluminum
Suspension Type	‎Front
Special Feature	‎Digital Display
Included Components	‎E-Bike Accessory Kit
Size	‎27.5"
Brake Style	‎Disc
Specific Uses For Product	‎Trail
Item Weight	‎57.3 Pounds
Model Name	‎Moscow Plus
Power Source	‎battery
Wheel Material	‎Aluminum
Lithium Battery Energy Content	‎768 Watt Hours
Maximum Weight Recommendation	‎200 Pounds
Assembly Required	‎No
UPC	‎811484030458
Manufacturer	‎NCM
Brand Name	‎NCM
Warranty Description	‎1 year warranty
Suggested Users	‎unisex-adult
Number of Items	‎1
Part Number	‎US100MI5650A+MB4816P7518
Sport Type	‎Cycling

Additional Information

ASIN	B07R5PYR9S
Customer Reviews	3.5 out of 5 stars
Best Sellers Rank	#677,612 in Sports & Outdoors ( ) #2,544 in
Date First Available	October 31, 2019

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OCEANVOLT sail drive motors

Oceanvolt offers a range of sail drive motors to provide propulsion and hydro generation for vessels ranging from 15 to 80 feet.

Sail Drive (SD)

• Synchronous permanent magnet electric motor.
• Sail Drive with 1.93:1 reduction.
• Lightweight: weighs as little as 42.5kg (motor & sail drive).
• The only complete electric inboard propulsion system with
• EMC certified closed circulation liquid cooling providing both cooling and lubrication.
• Functions as a hydro generator to generate power while under sail.

system installation layout (example)

• Nominal Power
• Reduction Ratio
• Motor weight

Oceanvolt servoprop

The patented Oceanvolt ServoProp variable pitch sail drive combines a high efficiency sail drive with the most powerful hydro generator on the market. The unique feature of the ServoProp is the possibility to turn the propeller blades more than 180 degrees. The software controlled variable pitch sail drive adjusts the pitch of the propeller blades automatically so that the power generation and power output are optimal. Combined with uniquely designed blades it delivers optimal efficiency in both forward, reverse and hydro generation. And with the blades set to the neutral sailing position, the propeller creates extremely low drag similar to the drag of a feathering propeller. The benefits of ServoProp include an estimated +30% increase in forward propulsion, +100% in reverse and +300% increase in hydro generation effect. 

A normal fixed propeller (that by nature does not have the blades ideally shaped for regeneration) generates less than half the power of ServoProp at a given boat speed. ServoProp is capable of generating more than 1 kW at 6-8 knots. The power generated can be used to power both the propulsion system as well as all the electronics on board without the need to have a separate generator. With this in mind we can definitely start talking about the possibility of a totally self-sufficient cruiser!

The ServoProp is suitable as a propulsion motor for monohulls up to 50 ft & multihulls up to 60 ft. It can also be used as a hydro generator in boats up to 100 ft.

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• Discussion by Brand & User Reviews

NCM Moscow Battery and misc parts

• Thread starter nufo
• Start date Nov 30, 2021
• Nov 30, 2021

Hi everyone, Unfortunately I got into an accident but thankfully the bike took most of the impact (along with the side of my face). I was thinking of trying to fix it but likely will be pricey. So instead, I'll probably part out the bike. The fork, frame, and front brake disk are definitely shot but other parts are available. 1) Battery is in great condition (had about 700 miles on the bike and kept the bike indoors with battery properly charged), 2) rims and tires surprisingly seem to be fine, 3) brake pads and calipers seem good, 4) handlebars, 5) front and rear crankset, 6) display, 7) controller, 8) other misc. I can take pictures of anything that you're interested in. The biggest item is the battery so what is a fair price for it? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! PS. I'm located in Chicago. Local pickup is great but willing to ship.  

Active Member

Good to hear you came out in good shape! If you were considering getting a replacement bike, you might think about keeping some of that stuff as spares, etc. In my case, I have 2 batteries and take along the spare one only when going on a long trip,  

Timpo said: You should mention which Ah battery you have. You should also mention about the controller and display. Which one do you have? Is it the 18A, 28mph version? I know there are pretty big demand from European NCM riders. Click to expand...

Well-Known Member

nufo said: Hi everyone, Unfortunately I got into an accident but thankfully the bike took most of the impact (along with the side of my face). I was thinking of trying to fix it but likely will be pricey. So instead, I'll probably part out the bike. The fork, frame, and front brake disk are definitely shot but other parts are available. 1) Battery is in great condition (had about 700 miles on the bike and kept the bike indoors with battery properly charged), 2) rims and tires surprisingly seem to be fine, 3) brake pads and calipers seem good, 4) handlebars, 5) front and rear crankset, 6) display, 7) controller, 8) other misc. I can take pictures of anything that you're interested in. The biggest item is the battery so what is a fair price for it? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! PS. I'm located in Chicago. Local pickup is great but willing to ship. Click to expand...

• Dec 1, 2021

john peck said: I´d take the frame if it were local, but shippin kinda prohibitive, Wudda ya what fur da battry? Click to expand...

• Dec 2, 2021

nufo said: Where are you located? Also, I need to do a little research in terms of how much the parts go for. It seems like a new battery goes for $414 on Leon... So maybe around $300 plus shipping? You can PM if you'd like. Click to expand...

Attachments

• Jan 3, 2022

Hi everyone, Hope you all had a good, safe holiday break. I had promised pictures of everything that would be up for sale and here they are (finally!). I'll be parting out the Moscow (front forks are no good and the front brake caliper is warped). The battery was kept at 50% charge when off the battery and the bike had approximately 800 miles before the accident. If you're interested in anything, you can shoot me a message and I'll get back to you ASAP. Thanks!  

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