laser sailboat hull paint

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• Boat Repair and Restoration
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Painting my 1974 Laser Sailboat

• Thread starter clegofan
• Start date Sep 22, 2012
• Sep 22, 2012

Hello, I am going to be painting my 1974 Laser sailboat. Right now it is an ugly green-faded color. I would like to paint the hull metallic green(going to be mixing metal flake with green) and the deck white. My budget is ~$150. I know it is low but I might have found how to make it work but I'm not sure. Can someone post a step-by-step on how I can go about doing this? I would rather just roll on the paint but I'm not sure if you would need to spray it for a metallic color to make it look good. I only use this boat in fresh water and store it high-and-dry(as you would with a dinghy). Thanks in advance.  

Petty Officer 2nd Class

Re: Painting my 1974 Laser Sailboat I would really encourage you to wet sand with about 400 grit, working your way up to at least 800 and then hitting the hull with some buffing compound before you paint it. You may be surprised how nice. Even if you do paint it you will want to sand the gel down as smooth as possible before priming so you have nothing to loose. While you are at it put an access port near the mast step and reinforce it with a couple of layers of glass if this has not been done already. I have a 73 that I cleaned up a couple of years ago and it really came out nice with a couple of hours of work, and your gel coat will be easier to maintain than paint. There are very few that old that are ever sailed. I took mine out racing a couple years ago and the old girl did surprisingly well for her age and their reputation of soft and slow.  

Rear Admiral

• Sep 23, 2012

Re: Painting my 1974 Laser Sailboat Welcome clegofan, I know nothing about sailboats, but I can tell you to try and follow "gddavid's" advice about attempting to clean up the gel-coat first...if it isn't too far gone, you might be pleasantly surprised at the results of your efforts... If you end up having to paint...forget anything related to metallics or metal flakes unless you have all the necessary items required for a totally happy finish...by that I mean, the experience working with these types of paints, the right equipment to shoot them, and either have a pro spray booth or can set up a good facsimile at home...any type of metallic paint can be a real disappointment if not done correctly... Here is a real good link on how to paint your boat on a budget... http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=384982&page=10&p=3302799#post3302799 Have Fun and Happy Sailing! GT1M  

Vice Admiral

clegofan said: Hello, I am going to be painting my 1974 Laser sailboat. Right now it is an ugly green-faded color. I would like to paint the hull metallic green(going to be mixing metal flake with green) and the deck white. My budget is ~$150. I know it is low but I might have found how to make it work but I'm not sure. Can someone post a step-by-step on how I can go about doing this? I would rather just roll on the paint but I'm not sure if you would need to spray it for a metallic color to make it look good. I only use this boat in fresh water and store it high-and-dry(as you would with a dinghy). Thanks in advance. Click to expand...

• Sep 24, 2012

Re: Painting my 1974 Laser Sailboat Yes, I found an automotive spray gun and detailer for ~$50 and while be borrowing my neighbors air compressor. I have some experience spraying and will be rolling on primer and the top grippaint. The paint and clearcoat will be sprayed on.  

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Questions on restoring deck on 1974 Laser - Pic Heavy

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If you're still in the TC area, why not get ahold of Tom Babel via the GTYC? If he doesn't know, he'll know someone who does. Also contact Gougeon Bros. directly. They're in Bay City.  

Thanks Puddinlegs, I am actually from the Detroit area. There is a laser hull listed in Dexter on CL for $100 with a soft hull, but the guy will not respond to my emails, it may be sold. Thanks again - I do go up north and will check out Gougeon Bros. Mike  

I guess my biggest question is, since the PO sanded down the fiberglass creating low spots in the areas of concern (where the foam inner is poking through) is it okay to glass over the foam inner or do I need to cut sections out and add new inner material.  

I have to say $500 for a laser in this condition is very steep. Please tell me you didn't pay that much....well, here are some random thoughts. The good news - the mast step looks solid. Those can be a pain to repair. The easy way to tell is to fill it up with water, and see if it drains out.... I was going to suggest simply painting, but having taken a closer look at your photos it looks like re-glassing will be needed. The foam core is so thin I would not bother to cut it out; glassing over it should be fine. You probably need a couple of layers of cloth. A good preparation will be key. Spend solid time up front ensuring the surface is totally clean, major voids are filled (if necessary with a few layers of fibreglass for a big hole). Dig out any loose/weak 'bondo' work. Where things are screwed in - cleats, fairleads, etc consider expoxying reinforcement - such as plywood - to give the screws something to bite in to. Your process looks good; you may want to have a helper to mix up the resin, so you can put it on in smaller areas, roll out bubbles, add the next section without stopping to remake resin. REmember you need a special roller or plastic scraper to squeeze most of the epoxy out of the cloth - the cloth should not be dry (white and shiny), but neither should there be pools of excess epoxy! One big sheet of cloth could be a lot to handle, you may want to think of adding smaller, more manageable sections (with a reasonable overlap. I would suggest a number of layers of thinner sheets. Fibreglass is awesome stuff, and pretty easy to handle, so take it slow. Remember, don't add more than 2-3 layers in one go, or it will get hot and distort. When dry, you can use a variety of compounds to fill and fair. Personally I like a 2-part fairing compound for final (detailed) fairing. I would use epoxy filler for medium-size problems like holes, and cloth for larger depressions or structural problems. In my experience the areas which get the most abuse are the bow (bumping into things), the painter "cleat" (which looks ripped out and badly replaced in the photos), and the decks on either side of the cockpit where you sit. The stern - where the rope traveler lies - I have not seen as a problem area. The most common failure area, as previously mentioned, is the mast step. I notice you have a few items of hardware apparently missing; the hiking strap is one you will almost certainly need! So check you have solid screw-holes for that.  

Hope you didn't pay $500 for it, but in as you now have it.. why not do it right? Before you go adding layer after layer of cloth and before you rip off the top layers of the deck. About every foot or two across the deck lay a board on edge and draw the curve of the deck and cut them so you can support the deck from the underside. Because it's a small boat it would be easier to re-deck then fix the old and adding too much weight topsides. New foam core is not expensive and by time you mess with plywood and too many layers of cloth to make it rigid, it will be stronger and lighter with the foam core. Keep in mind the curve and glass on bottom (inside) of the deck is what gives it strength. It's not apparent in the photos but it may be even easier to take the deck off the hull and reinforce if from the inside. IF you can get the hull to deck joint apart.  

Dang - this is some great advice! I really feel bad now that I paid that much. My only thought was that the trailer is a really nice trailer, however a 1971. It has two sails, one nice and one that may be the original. The centerboard is newer and is the newer white centerboards. Also, I think I have all the hardware. Some are in bags, they were removed quite awhile ago. Also, the mast step does indeed hold water so that was another consideration I thought of when paying the $500. In my mind, I enjoy working on these type projects and with $100 - $200 in materials and missing hardware I will have a nice, freshly painted boat for $700. You can't touch a Laser in this area for under $900 - without a trailer. Paul - does my material list look appropriate? Copied from my original post. Does 6 oz seem the right weight for the glass? What specific epoxy do you suggest for the glassing? West 105 Epoxy and 206 slow hardener? What about the filler - how about West 410 Microlite filler?  

Use this; WEST SYSTEM | Epoxy Hardeners - 207 Special Coating Hardener 6 oz fabric right for what your doing. your welcome  

Good luck with your project. It looks like alot of fun!  

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DIY Topside Paint Test: Two-part Linear Polyurethanes Face Off

Practical sailors amateur painters try their hand at painting a sailboat hull to see which paint is best suited for a diy project.

Is painting a boat’s hull a job for an amateur painter? Should a mono-urethane or two-part linear polyurethane (LPU) be used? Practical Sailor is often asked these questions. Our answer? That depends on the painter and the paint.

With the right tools, research, and enough time and patience, any boat project is a manageable do-it-yourself endeavor. However, most of us lack the tools, time, and know-how to tackle all of the repairs and maintenance our boats require. The key is to only take on those projects that most realistically match our skills, budget, and schedule. But the trick is accurately assessing one’s own skill level and the difficulty of the task at hand.

So when it came time to freshen up the topsides of our long-neglected Catalina 22, Jelly , we weighed the pros and cons of doing it ourselves versus paying a yard to spray on some Awlgrip.

Our duty to answer our readers oft-asked questions and our addiction to product testing-and perhaps an underlying masochistic tendency-won out, and we decided to mount an amateur encounter of the polyurethane kind. The mission was neither swift nor painless, but in the end, Jelly shined with a glossy new paint job, we tucked another project under our DIY toolbelts, and our readers (hopefully) will benefit from our hard-learned lessons.

The Jelly Adventure

While our panel test ( Practical Sailor August 2008) seeks out the most durable topside paint, this Jelly test was to determine which two-part LPU is the most user-friendly for the amateur painter and whether the project is manageable for the average do-it-yourselfer.

That meant trusting Jelly’ s paint job to Practical Sailor s “amateur” staff, rather than banking on the talent of editors like technical guru and former boatyard manager Ralph Naranjo (who can handle a spray gun as easily as the rest of us handle fingerpaints). That in turn meant settling for a less-than-perfect finish, but it also ensured a true test of the products and techniques user-friendliness.

What We Tested

We chose to use the roll-and-tip painting method. It is less hazardous and requires less skill than spraying on the paint, but it does call for more deftness than brushing alone.

Testers selected two-part polyurethanes from manufacturers that historically have done well in Practical Sailor s topside paint durability tests: Interlux and Epifanes. While Interluxs Perfection was released after our last test, its predecessor, Interthane Plus, took top honors for two-part white polyurethanes, and Epifanes Poly-urethane was named the best red or blue LPU in our four-year test published in the May 2006 issue.

On Jelly s port side, we applied Epifanes Poly-urethane No. 800 white thinned with Epifanes poly-urethane thinner, and on her starboard side and transom, we painted Interluxs Perfection Mediterranean White and used 2333N brushing reducer. (Both paints can be sprayed on, but different thinners are required.)

We also tested several fairing compounds, natural-bristle brushes, high-density foam rollers, and two-part epoxy primers. See page 29 for more on primers and preparation techniques, and look for reports on our brush and fairing compounds test in upcoming issues.

How We Tested / Painted

Before getting started on any first-time boat project, its a good idea to do some homework. We searched for application tips on the Internet, surveyed boatyard “experts,” and consulted our library of how-to books, the most helpful of which were “Boat Maintenance” by William Burr Jr. and “Sailboat Refinishing” by Don Casey. We browsed paint manufacturers websites and marketing literature for instructions and any helpful advice. And we raided the  Practical Sailor archives for past tests and how-tos. (April 1, 1996; Feb. 15, 2002; May 2006; and August 2008 issues.)

The 1974, never-painted Jelly was in pretty sad shape. Hull shine was long gone. Her gelcoat was crazed in places; bare fiberglass showed through in other spots, and others still had deep gauges, pin holes, and scratches.

To properly prepare the hull for painting, much sanding, filling, and fairing was required, as were multiple coats of primer. (See “A Primer on Prep” on page 29 for specifics.)

We followed makers instructions for surface preparation, priming, and application. The starboard side was primed with two coats of two-part Interlux Epoxy Primekote, and on the port hull, we applied two coats of Epifanes Epoxy Primer.

After priming, testers used blue dye to find any areas that were uneven and then sanded the hull with 220-grit sandpaper and a pneumatic dual-action sander (DA). After wiping down the hull with maker-specified solvents and tack a rag, it was time to apply the LPU paints.

Three coats of each product were rolled on using high-density, closed-cell foam sausage rollers and tipped with 3-inch Wooster and Epifanes (Omega) natural-bristle brushes. Testers wet-sanded between coats with 320-grit sandpaper, and wiped down with Interlux 202 and Epifanes thinner.

For most, two coats would suffice, but Murphys Law, uncooperative Florida weather, and amateur mistakes led to Jelly getting a third coat on each side.

To determine which DIY topside makeover system was more amateur-friendly, testers rated the products on the following criteria: how easy the product was to lay on, how forgiving it was, maker-supplied instructions, finish hardness, and initial gloss.

What We Found

For select jobs, you may find that one coat of Epifanes Primer covers well enough, but in our opinion, two coats of the Interlux Epoxy Primekote will always be necessary. We ended up doing two coats of both for better coverage in areas like Jelly’ s blue bootstripe and where pink and gray fillers were used.

When it came to hand-sanding between coats, the Epifanes primer, like its LPU, was much harder to sand than the Interlux, but it also left a harder finish-a bonus for durability but a drawback during application.

There was a noticeable difference in the workability of the LPU paints. The Epifanes Poly-urethane had a tendency to dry much quicker than the Interlux, making it hard to keep a wet edge and easy to leave holidays. Adding thinner dropped the viscosity too much. Perfections “open” time (time where it can be brushed without leaving marks) was significantly longer than Epifanes, a major bonus for the novice.

Both paints pulled together well as they cured, but the Perfection seemed more forgiving, in our opinion. In some spots on the Epifanes side, the brush strokes never pulled together. (Admittedly, this may have been an application hiccup, but the goal here is to identify the most amateur-friendly coating.)

Both paints offered acceptable gloss, not exactly a slick, sprayed-on shine, but better than expected. Reflection tests showed Epifanes Poly-urethane to have the upper hand in gloss ratings. (See photos, page 30.) The difficulty testers had in sanding the Epifanes (primer and LPU) is a testament to its hardness.

Epifanes does offer detailed instructions, but we prefer Interluxs idiot-proof approach with spelled-out, step-by-step directions on the cans and downloadable information, including how-to videos, on its website. Epifanes offers limited application tips online.

Lessons Learned

The Jelly topside project was not without its stumbles, but rather than recount all the things that went wrong, we offer this brief rundown of knowledge gleaned from the experience.

The right tools and supplies make the job easier: Don’t skimp on sandpaper or brush quality; use a soft, wide, full brush with natural bristles (expect to spend $30-$40 for a good brush); use maker-specified solvents.

Prep brushes and rollers by going over them with tape to remove lint, fuzz, and stray bristles. Clean brushes immediately after finishing a coat.

Paint a white hull white; a dark paint could result in print-through.

Be aware of the weather: Do not paint in the direct sun, and if you live south of the Mason-Dixon, buy plenty of thinner. As the humidity climbs, so will the paints thirst for thinner. (You’ll also want to have enough for cleanup.)

Keep an extra clean brush and extra paint on hand in case one brush gets dropped or paint spills during application. Wet the ground around the boat to keep dust down.

Try vertical and horizontal tipping. For Perfection, Interlux recommends rolling vertically and tipping vertically, but we had better success rolling vertically and tipping horizontally.

For more tips, check out the “DIY Notebook” from the August 2008 topside paint review. Also, look for it with the online version of this article at www.practical-sailor.com .

For amateur do-it-yourself application of a two-part LPU, we recommend Interlux Perfection. Its more forgiving than its Epifanes counterpart, and idiot-proof instructions are easy to come by. Epifanes Poly-urethane, a harder, glossier finish, is worth considering for the more advanced painter or for those hiring a pro.

Is the super-slick look of a professional, sprayed-on Awlgrip job achievable for the beginner with a roller and paint brush? Not without a fair amount of practice at roll-and-tipping and experimenting with flow. If a mirror-reflection is the look you want, hire a pro.

If you’ll be happy with a finish that’s not-too-far from perfect but perfect from afar, then try your hand at self application. DIY topside painting is a feasible project with the right product, but we do recommend practicing on a fiberglass dinghy, rudder, or piece of glass before touching your hull.

All told, the projects two testers spent about 60 hours prepping, priming, and painting. We estimate the supply cost to be about $450 for the whole project-a savings of $1,000 or more over having it professionally prepped and painted.

So was the Jelly test worth it? While were much happier now that Jelly has a fresh face, getting her there was a tough road. We learned a lot along the way, and take pride knowing that her clean look is a result of our hard work, which afterall, is the DIYers mantra, is it not?

Now that we’ve recovered from all that sanding and the white paint has finally come off our fingernails, were turning our attention to one-part topside paints. We plan to paint Jelly’ s decks and the hull of our O’Day Javelin test boat with Epifanes Monourethane and Interlux Toplac one-part paints. Stay tuned for more tales of topside fun, including our one-year update of the long-term panel test.

• A Primer On Prep
• Practical Sailor Value Guide: 2-Part DIY Topside Projects
• Download PDF Format
• DIY Notebook: Topside Painting: Tools and Tricks of the Trade (August 2008)

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

13 comments.

My experience with using both brands was opposite to yours. The gloss achieved with Epifanes was superior and weather did not affect the result.

Thanks Rob. The gloss was better with the Epiphane in our test, too. “Reflection tests showed Epifanes Polyurethane to have the upper hand in gloss ratings.” Testers were impressed by the gloss and durability of Epiphanes, but the focus of this test was identifying novice-friendly solutions. At the time of this test, Interlux’s support in this area was slightly better based on the independent experiences of three novices we enlisted for help in the test. However, for someone who is more confident with their skills, or an amateur who is patient enough to do some mixing and applying trials, the Epiphane delivers outstanding gloss and a harder finish. For different perspectives on DIY painting we have many articles on this topic, including DIY spray painting, which is included in the article “Topside-Paint Endurance Test 3-year Checkup.”

2 part poly’s are definitely harder than mono urethanes . So I think they are a better choice for top sides. I’ve used both on 3 different boat restoration jobs. Interlux is very sensitive to weather. The mono urethane will not gloss up in all but the perfect humidity and temperature conditions. Epifanes is a totally different experience. They now recommend just rolling with a foam roller. I agree! The result is a spray like finish. Don’t tip it off.

Interlux 2 part kicked too fast and left orange peels on one job I did.

Epifanes is very easy to patch repair. Your going to scratch your new paint work. This feature is very important.

My vote is for Epifanes. Hands down!

No gloves, no skin protection, no vapour masks????

It’s not necessary if you are outside. And probably not if you are inside. The stuff is very user friendly, much like painting your house. If you are spraying that is another story.

If you can smell the solvents, you are breathing the solvents. Read the SDS and make your own choice. The aggressive reducers and isocyanates in the converter are not something that I wish to have in my bloodstream.

In regards to spraying any 2-part paint, the isocyanates in the mist reach a hazardous level before you can smell any solvents. A simple elastomeric mask with an organic cartridge is not good enough – you need external air and a bunny suit. Even then, you will feel like crap after with enough blowback from things like painting the inside of a transom corner.

Regarding the last paragraph, has Toplac been discontinued? It’s not on Interlux’s site or at retailers I checked.

A tool to consider (in my opinion the only one) is a paint edger with thousands of short bristles woven in (not glued) to the pad. This tool instantly gives you a perfect and even finish with vertical strokes as if you had brushed many times, without opening the paint so working time and live edge are extended. It pulls the paint into an even layer that looks sprayed. The paint not being tacky, no bristles are left behind. Rolling is a drippy and messy way to get the paint to the surface by comparison and an, as it turns out unnecessary. Every batch needs a new pad in the tool but pads are inexpensive.

Hi this is interesting idea. So I was intending to just roll but not tip as recommended for two part poly Epifanes paint. You’re saying that a paint edger would work best in application instead of rolling?

After long-boarding, yes my arms still ache, and 3 coats of Interlux Perfection, White, rolled & tipped with help, my ’55 Rhodes often gets the comment “Is she wood?”

I did the coach roof of my 1968 Ohlson 38 using Epifanes Poly.

One thing I did not see mentioned was flattening agents. I wanted a flat finish. Epifanes has flat paint pre-made, no need to add it and mix in later. A step saver.

I did not find any problem with keeping a wet edge. I found it stunningly easy to mix and apply. For rolling, I found the Epifanes foam rollers the only ones that did not swell as you used them!

I stripped the old paint down to the fiberglass / wood / aluminum. Removed everything that could be removed, painted parts at home. Reassembled everything.

I was amazed how well the paint leveled out. Rolled and tipped great. The epifanes anti-skid was wonderful. Not having to mix flattening agent in was great!

Being the first time I did any paint job on a boat, I was stunned how good it looked. Had one friend call me a liar. Saying there was NO WAY a DIY paint job could look that good!

On it’s 5th season on the water, still looks as good today, as it did when I first applied it.

The Epifanes paint is TOUGH!

the url to my pictures of the entire paint process is here https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=ohlson38project&set=a.728673937268497

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LASER/ILCA TIPS: How to Repair the 'Hull to Deck Joint’ on a Laser / ILCA

Any crack or damage in the hull of your boat is something that should not be ignored. And while not all damage is equal, the ‘hull to deck joint’ is one that should be addressed. If you find yourself in this situation, hopefully these repair tips will help.

What is the ‘Hull to Deck Joint’?

Simply stated, the hull to deck joint is exactly what it sounds like - where the hull of the boat (the bottom) is joined together with the deck (the top). Fiberglass boats are constructed as separate pieces and then those components are combined to make your boat.

To inspect your hull to deck joint on your ILCA/Laser, flip the boat upside down. On the edge of the boat you will see what looks like an Oreo cookie (the joint will be darker on both sides sandwiched around a white or yellow filling). Starting in the early 2010’s, manufacturers started ‘painting’ over this joint with gelcoat, so you couldn’t see this layered joint, which was a purely aesthetic decision.

The Problem:

Over time (especially in older and heavily used boats), things such as hitting the dock, hitting other boats, freezing temperatures, etc. can lead to this joint failing. Evidence of this will be seen in the form of cracks or lines in the middle (filling) material.

The issue here isn’t so much a hull integrity problem as this joint is one of the strongest on the boat, but it is more so an entry point for water to seep in. Water in the hull is not good.

A super temporary repair (only if you notice this right before launching to sail): Throw some clear packing tape over the damaged area. Then follow these steps for a permanent and proper solution for this problem:

Steps for Prepping the Boat:

• Flip the boat upside down
• Dremel out the damaged area (of the ‘Oreo cookie’). Go a bit further than the crack itself, and wider too. Make sure to get it all out
• Clean it with acetone, vacuum, or air compressor, and let dry

Steps for R epairing the Hull to Deck Joint:

• Put on some latex/nitrile gloves. If you’re working in an enclosed space, it’s best to wear an organic respirator. The chemicals you’ll be working with are all ‘off the shelf’ items but it’s better to err on the side of safety here.
• Mix up some West Systems Epoxy in a small container. The ratios are dependent on temperature, so be sure to check the label. Aim for a maple syrup consistency.
• With a brush, or tongue depressor ‘wet out’ the damaged area. Think like you are trying to cover the crevices of a delicious waffle, using as little maple syrup as possible. You want to let the boat ‘soak up’ some of the liquid epoxy. We are NOT filling the hole here, but rather coating the repair area.
• Next, thicken your epoxy with silica filler. Aim for a consistency of thick peanut butter.
• Use your finger or tongue depressor to push the epoxy in and fill the void, using a more than you think. More is better than not enough here. Smooth it out as best you can.
• Let the epoxy cure overnight.
• Lightly sand with 120 grit then 320 grit sandpaper. The goal is to make sure it’s not sharp, and looks decent.

Congratulations! You’ve just fixed the hull to deck joint on your boat. Celebrate and go for a sail!

This is not a particularly difficult repair but it is an important one. If you’ve never worked with epoxy before, don’t be intimidated, just go for it.

Taking care of your Laser / ILCA sometimes means getting your hands dirty. But it also means your boat will take care of you over time. We hope you never have to do this type of repair - but if you do, do it with confidence and get back out on the water!

Recommended Products:

West System - Epoxy Repair Pack (Click Here)

Other Tools: Dremel, respirator (if working inside), latex gloves, brush or tongue depressor, 120 & 320 grit sandpaper & acetone.

Additional Resources:

Click here for our Laser/ILCA Rigging Guide

Click here for our Laser/ILCA Rigging Videos

Click here for our Laser/ILCA Reference Photos

This article was written by George Yioulos at West Coast Sailing.

All rights are reserved - if you want to make a link, great!

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Laser repair

Discussion in ' Sailboats ' started by NathanW , Sep 14, 2023 .

NathanW New Member

I just purchased an older laser sailboat that had chipping paint on the hull. Once I removed it I found a couple areas that were soft with spider cracks.The hull has not lost its shape due to the soft spots. I do have hatch access inside the hull, how would I reinforce the hull to stiffen it up without having to cut into it?  

Tops Senior Member

Is the boat taking on water? Can you shine a bright light on the cracks and see them inside the hull? Do you have pictures of the areas to post?  

fallguy Senior Member

Pretty open ended question. Sorry, not familiar with the boat. Are the soft spots localized? Give us some pictures.  

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NathanW, if you have access to the area from the inside of the hull already you are a step ahead. Here is a link to another forum (that has a Laser section) where they show how to blind patch a Sunfish (instruction page and video). You would not need to use the same woven roving. The guy in the video has a blog that is worth paging through. Hole in hull https://sailingforums.com/threads/hole-in-hull.46720/#post-217317 The interesting thing about Sunfishes is that they are a single layer of heavy roving with resin and gelcoat versus multiple layers of thinner materials. The Lasers could be similar, I am not experienced with them to know for sure. Here is a thread where I am scratching my head about two of my boats. There is a video about another repair method and some cross sections. There is one cross section that shows a deck repair where they floated/flooded the cloth in resin, that is not a preferred method. Late 1980's Chopper Gunning - Resin Rich? https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/late-1980s-chopper-gunning-resin-rich.68317/ Use the proper PPE for whatever materials and operations you do to the boat.  

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How to Articles | Bottom Paint Store

Learn more about boat paint applications and marine supplies.

How To Mark Your Waterline for Bottom Paint

The waterline can also refer to anyline on a ship’s hull that is parallel to the water’s surface when the ship is afloat in a normal position. There are many reasons a waterline needs to be marked, it is a new vessel, the old paint has been blasted off for a new finish, or you’ve loaded it up with more stuff the original marking is off. Marking the waterline is often met with dread and getting the correct line for your bottom paint will provide stunning results. Getting it wrong, especially when paired with a boot stripe, will stand out like a sore thumb.

If your boat is new, the waterline should be marked on the designer’s drawing, if that is available. If not, you can take the measurements from a similar boat. If the boat has been in the water, even a few days, there may be some slight staining along the waterline (or just float the boat) that can be marked with a grease marker (best if it is full with fuel). Others have advised to throw sawdust in the water around the boat. Haul the boat and see where the sawdust has stuck to the wet hull.

Fine-line masking tape is ideal for this because it has some stretch and conforms very well to hull shape, especially if the hull has a lot of reverse turns. Don’t press the tape too firmly yet – you may need to peel it back for small adjustments. Once you’re happy with the whole line, press the tape firmly against the hull. Since the boat is already level, all you have to do for the second side is to set the level at the correct height and mark the stern with a piece of tape or transpose the wax crayon mark.

When the boat is aligned athwartships, set up the laser tripod, the exact spot is not critical providing the laser beam can see the whole side of the boat (if you can see it, so can the laser beam). Turn on the laser and adjust the height of the beam until it touches the marks you made at the bow and the stern. If it touches the mark on the bow but the stern is too high, lower the jack-stands at the stern or raise those at the bow—vice versa if the stern is low. Double-check the spirit level in the cockpit to make sure you’re not tilting the boat.

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Painting with Interlux Perfection Two Part Polyurethane

Choosing Interlux Perfection: I did some searching of boating forums and found a lot of praise for the way Interlux Perfection rolled and tipped. Perfection is a two-part polyurethane paint, and I wanted a two part because of its documented ability to stand up over years of exposure to sun and weather. I found Perfection available at Jamestown Distributors. Jamestown has done a fantastic job of posting advice and videos showing how to use Perfection to get a professional looking paint job by rolling and tipping.

The hull choice: The sailboat is an early ’80s Evelyn 26. The boat has a nice hull shape and I wanted to show off the lines with a dramatic navy blue. (See the Evelyn story bottom of page)

Prep work: I feel that a sailboat really doesn’t need an automotive level prep because, unlike the hood of a car people won’t be looking across the surface of the paint very often. Most times people will be looking down at the hull from the dock, or from very far away as I do a horizon job – yeah right… But, I do like making sure any gouges or rough spots have been fared. The paint can’t look any better than what it’s being applied to, so I took my time. I made sure to wipe down the hull with the two rag method. Wiping the de-waxer on with one rag and removing the remaining liquid with a clean rag. I tried, best as I could to be sure the hull was free of wax so I wouldn’t have any fish eyes caused by wax particles overcoming the surface tension of the paint.

One problem was the name STARFIRE was pretty thickly painted on both sides. I realized at the point of starting to sand that the hull had been painted before. I used 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper to carefully remove the name without going through the paint on the hull. I took a bit of a risk by assuming that the white hull paint was so hard that it had to be a two part polyurethane. I could have been wrong,  and by all accounts, I would have a mess on my hands because a two part paint will not work over a one part. I could have tested a small area as advised by Jamestown, but I just went with my gut, and luckily I was right.

Final prep: After bringing the boat into a shop I was able to sand the hull with 220 grit paper on an orbital sander. I wiped down the hull with mineral spirits using the two rag method. At that point I masked off the waterline, toe rail, and a few thru-hull fittings on the transom. Just after I mixed the paint I tack clothed the entire hull carefully.

The paint: I read that the paint should be thinned 8-10% depending on the temperature. I thought the shop was running a bit cool hovering at 60 degrees. I went with a little less thinning at 7%. I reviewed my math several times to be sure I had the right amount. I used a medicine cup from children’s Motrin that we seem to use a lot of at our house. The medicine cup held up to the Interlux Interthane 2333N reducing solvent with no problem . I mixed the paint and waited the required 20 minutes to allow the paint to make its magical molecular bonds.

My technique : I had my dad roll. He had a foam roller that our Jamestown contact said would apply the paint in an even pattern without breaking down quickly. Our contact did say that we needed to check the condition of the roller throughout the job to be sure it wasn’t beginning to lose its elasticity. The roller held up well throughout the entire first coat. Link to roller: 6+Inch+Foam+Roller+Covers My dad would lay down about 2 feet of paint ahead of me and I worked the paint with horizontal brush strokes to flatten out the tiny bubbles from the roller. The hardest part was working the paint into the masked area where the hull met the toe rail. The roller couldn’t wet this one inch wide area because the toe rail sticks over the hull. With upward strokes at a 45 degree angle I was able to pull paint to the dry strip and evenly spread the paint. The last stroke I made was a vertical brush stroke from the rail to the boot stripe. This really smoothed out any brush lines and reduced any chance of paint sag do to a thick wet horizontal line of paint. At times we needed to move the scaffold and the wetted edge would dry a bit. My dad rolled over the dry edge with the last pass of the roller by about a roller width. I would not attempt to do any horizontal strokes, instead I pulled the paint down from the top and didn’t see any demarcation between where we started or left off. This really seemed to be the best way to transition from a dry line to a wet line in both the first and second coats.

End day one: After we had finished the first coat I could see faint areas where the white paint ghosted through. It took almost all of the first quart to coat the hull. The color from Interlux (Flag Blue) covered very well. One coat would never have passed as a final coat, but it was pretty dramatic at covering.

Wait 14 hours: The next day I was able to sand out any little runs with 300 grit paper. I hit the hull with a light sanding using 220 and tack clothed. With the techniques and practice from the day before, my dad and I had a rhythm that worked well. The second coat went on really well, and we had no runs to contend with. And then, the pleasurable moment of removing the masking tape and paper while the paint was still soft – always a thrill.

Recommend this paint? I am completely happy with the results. I would also consider mixing smaller batches of color to paint smaller dinghy sailboat hulls. I have an old beige Sunfish that could really get a great paint job from rolling and tipping Perfection.

Video of painting the Evelyn SKYLARK highlights:

Moments after removing the tape:

The Evelyn SKYLARK Story: This boat has a great race record from near the Boston. It was purchased by a father and son near us at Point Breeze, New York to sail at the Oak Orchard Yacht Club. Disaster stuck when a tree limb fell on the boat during storage. The mast was broken in to two, but it saved the cabin and rest of the boat from any real damage. The boat was a deemed a total loss and was subsequently donated to Oak Orchard Yacht Club. If the club could fix the mast it would be a loner boat for people to sail. Then… The boat sat idle for over two years. The club was not interested in having a project boat sitting on their property and the boat was offered for free to my father, and then I came along. I was very excited to get an Evelyn 26 sailboat at the end of summer 2013. The boat has nice lines, but I really couldn’t warm up to the large stripe running partway down its hull. Although, once I removed the stripe the hull looked very nice, I though going for navy blue would make the boat look sleeker. Next project: I need to repaint the boot stripe and add a matching red cove stripe.

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How To Paint A Sailboat: A Complete Guide

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

Whether you’re new to owning a sailboat or not, you have likely put some thought into painting your boat yourself. It is important to keep your boat well painted as it can save you a lot of money in the long run. It can also save you a lot of money if you choose to paint your boat yourself.

Whether or not this is the first time you have painted your boat, you will still find this article useful. It has lots of tips and tricks for making sure you get the job done and get it done well. Hiring a professional may be easier, but there is a sense of pride and accomplishment in doing it yourself. If you use this article as a reference, you can’t go wrong.

Table of contents

Why is it important to paint your sailboat?

Painting your boat is not just an excuse to put some creative flair into your boat, it is an important process in keeping the boat safe. Safe from salt, safe from barnacles, and safe from damage. The paint acts as a vital protective layer, without it your boat will be vulnerable to all kinds of damage. If you have a wooden hull, this protective layer will keep the wood from rotting. It can also plug any minuscule holes that might allow sea life and salt to make its way into the body of the boat.

There is also, of course, the added benefit of having a boat that looks good . A boat is a point of pride and should be treated as such. Having a glossy looking boat is something to be proud of. Most boats are not painted far above the waterline, so it is even an opportunity to make your boat stand out. Some people also believe that painting a boat brings good luck. Unless of course, you paint it green, green is thought to bring bad luck. Whether or not you believe that is up to you.

What are the benefits of painting your boat yourself?

When it comes to painting your boat there are only two options. Hire a professional boat painting contractor, or bite the bullet and do it yourself. They both have their pros and cons, of course, but there is so much more to be gained by doing it yourself. First of all, painting your boat yourself is just as fun as it is difficult. Learning to paint is a valuable life skill that you won’t regret learning as early on in your sailing career as possible. If you can learn to paint your boat now, you will save yourself a small fortune in the long run.

Hiring a contractor is expensive, to say the least, it may be faster and easier overall, but the extra cost can make it simply not feasible. Or simply unappealing. If this is the first time you are painting your sailboat you will need to make a one-off purchase of all the equipment needed for prepping, painting, and finishing the boat. After these one-off purchases are out of the way, you will only need to buy paint and new rollers the next time. Even if you need to buy all the equipment brand new, it can be cheaper than hiring someone else to do the job for you.

How often do you need to paint your sailboat?

The general rule of thumb for painting your boat is that it will need bottom paint about once a year. This is when you will need to take the boat completely out of the water and give it a fresh new coat. If your boat spends all of its time in the water, it certainly needs painting at least once a year. The saltwater is so corrosive that you shouldn’t let your boat go without a fresh coat of bottom paint for more than 2 years. Even if your boat only spends half its time in the water, and the other half on land, you will find that its best to keep its coat topped up.

The top paint, or the above waterline paint, doesn’t need painting anywhere near as often. It isn’t in direct contact with the seawater so it simply isn’t going to get eroded down as much. The salty sea spray can still be damaging over time so this paint should be re-done every 3 years. It can be more or less frequent depending on use and personal preference. Some people like to do above waterline paint yearly, with the rest of their boat, but it isn’t necessary.

What are the best paints to use for your sailboat?

There are plenty of great brands of paint out there, in various colors and shades, so you won’t struggle for choice. There are some things you might want to look for in your paint . For example, you may have noticed that a lot of boats tend to have red hulls. This isn’t just a fashion statement, and while red is supposed to bring luck this isn’t the main reason either. The reason is that this red/orange paint is perfect for added protection along the bottom of your boat.

This red/orange paint is interestingly chosen because it is, of course, traditional; but mostly because of its copper. The copper is actually what gives the paint its red/orange color.

Copper is perfect for the bottom of your boat for several reasons. First, copper acts as a biocide. It stops worms from making their way into the hull if your boat is wooden. If it is metal or fiberglass, it still has the benefit of stopping barnacles and other sea life from attaching themselves deep into the hull of the boat. Copper is also strong enough to hold up to scraping.

Scraping is when you scrape barnacles and other sea life off the hull of your boat. Scraping is an important part of keeping your boat in good condition. It is important to check with the marina or port authority whether or not you are allowed to scrape. If you scrape without permission you may find yourself on the receiving end of a hefty fine. The reason is that they don’t want you introducing invasive species on to the marina floor. This is mostly a problem when you are coming from somewhere vastly foreign, not sailing from New York to Chicago for example.

How many coats of paint does a sailboat need?

When painting your boat it’s a good idea to think about how many coats of paint you are going to need. There is no exact number that is needed, it is mostly to do with how well protected your boat needs to be and how much time you have on your hands. Every coat takes time and attention to detail.

If you choose to do four coats of paint it is going to be time-consuming but very well protected. That being said, the minimum number of coats is two. One is not enough. If your boat only spends part of the time in the water, two to three coats are plenty.

If you are someone who lives on their boat full-time, or at least most of the time, you may want to do more coats. Three, maybe even four, might be ideal here. The reason is that first, your boat is going to experience way more wear and tear than one that is just an ocean part-timer. And second, taking out your boat (which is also your home) is a giant hassle. It is a tedious process, so doing it as infrequently as possible is probably in your best interest. More coats last longer. When you are sailing from place to place, finding somewhere to take your boat out of the water and perform this maintenance is inconvenient. You want to be doing it as little as possible.

What safety precautions do I need to take when painting my sailboat?

All paint can be toxic when inhaled. Even if it is “non-toxic” paint it is going to be harmful to your lungs. They aren’t meant to inhale anything but air, even non-toxic paint is going to be bad for them. This is why it is important to wear a face mask.

Your mask should be specifically for painting, not surgical masks or other cheap medial masks. They are not going to be strong enough, with a fine enough air filter. Whether you feel the need to wear eyewear is up to you during the painting process.

Before the painting begins, when you are scraping and sanding, it is a good idea to wear some goggles to keep debris and splinters out of your eyes. It is also a good idea to wear gloves. You don’t want to rough your hands up too much, they need protection from not only the paint but splinters and sharp pieces of metal.

Painting a boat can be dangerous work. Without taking the proper safety precautions you are putting yourself at unnecessary risk. This safety equipment costs just a few bucks and is equally important as any of the other tools needed to paint your boat.

What tools do I need to paint a boat?

There is more to painting your boat than just using paint and a brush . You will also need tough sandpaper , potentially an angle grinder or welder , paint, primer , brushes, paint rollers , paint thinner , and solvent. You will need to make sure you have all of these things before you start painting. You can pick any of these items up at a boating goods store.

It is a good idea to bring some buckets with you for filling with water, both for rinsing off your boat and your brushes. All of your safety equipment needs to be brought too.

If this is your first time painting your boat yourself, you may find you need to buy all of these things at once. That can be a lot to stomach when its all in one go, luckily, most of these tools and equipment can be reused. Besides, it is still going to be far cheaper than hiring someone to do it for you. All of this equipment is an investment in your boat.

How to paint a sailboat

Whether this is the first time you have painted your boat or not, you may find some of the tips in this next section useful. Painting your sailboat may be tricky at first, but over time you will get the hang of it. The problem with painting your boat is that it can be a very expensive mistake if you get it wrong.

It is important to read this guide carefully, take your time, and make sure you do the job properly. It may be slow going at first, speed will come over time. Once you have gathered all of your safety equipment and tools you are ready to get started.

The workspace

First of all, you need to ensure you have the right workspace. You cant paint your boat in the water so you are going to need to find somewhere to do your work. This is easy enough if you don’t live on your boat full time, take the boat to your house and do your painting on the driveway. If this isn’t an option because you don’t have space or live on your boat full time, you are going to need to rent somewhere. There are typically places affiliated with the marina that you can use. In some cases, these even come with a majority of the equipment you will need. This, of course, drums up the price a bit, but that’s unavoidable.

Your workspace needs to be well ventilated, or you risk making yourself very sick. Both from paint fumes, rubbing alcohol fumes, and fine matter from when you sand the hull down. This means painting your boat in your garage, if it even fits, is not always the best idea. If you do decide to paint outside, it is important to consider the chance of rain. Of course, your boat is pretty waterproof, but once you begin sanding rain might damage the wood if left to sit there.

Before you do anything else, it is important to look your boat over fully from top to bottom. You are looking for any bumps, scrapes, cracks and general damage. This damage is not going to be noticeable while the boat is in the water, so just before you paint it is one of the only times you get to have a close look. Once you have made note of all this damage, it is time to get to work repairing it. Depending on just how severe this damage is, you may want to get help with this next stage.

All of this damage needs to be repaired before anything else can take place. Painting over these damaged areas is just going to hide the problem temporarily, the next time it comes to painting you will find they are far worse. If you don’t deal with this now, they are going to snowball into complicated and expensive repairs.

After your repairs are done it is time to start sanding. This is very time consuming as you need to do it three times. Per coat. First, take the 600 grit sandpaper and make your way around the boat. It is best to use electrical tape to mark out a section at a time so you don’t keep losing your place. After you have finished with the 600 grit sandpaper, it is time to move on to 800, then 1200. This process is important so you will be painting on as smooth a surface as possible. It is then a good idea to wipe the surfaces of the boat down with a damp cloth to remove any of the dust and flakes of metal/wood. Otherwise, you end up painting over them.

You could wash the boat down with a hose but you want to avoid getting the boat unnecessarily wet now that the hull has lost its protective layer. If you are sanding down a boat with a copper paint bottom, you may find the sanding process difficult. Just do your best, it doesn’t need to be 100% perfect. It is important to get as much of the old paint off as possible. Your new paint won’t adhere to the old paint as well as it would to the boat hull itself.

Putting on a layer of primer is not 100% necessary but it is recommended. The idea is that you want your topcoat to adhere to the boat as well as possible, a layer of primer can help you do that. The primer needs to be painted on evenly all over the boat. If you only feel like doing below the waterline, that is fine too. It will save you a lot of time. Putting on the layer of primer is not the most time-consuming part, it is mostly the sanding down that you will have to do. You will need to sand down using the 600 grit paper, then the 800, then 1200. Just like last time. Your layer of primer needs to be as smooth as possible for the maximum adhesion.

Now comes the paint. It is recommended to do at least two layers of paint. One undercoat and one top. Some people choose to go as far as two layers of primer, two layers of undercoat, and three layers of topcoat. This is going to be very time consuming, remember you will need to sand down three times between each layer of paint. You can paint using a brush if you like but is far easier to use a roller. It is also far easier if you employ someone to help you with this stage. It could be your spouse, child, friend, or anyone. It doesn’t need to be a paid professional. It can take a long time to go through this process. Especially if you are effectively doing 8 layers of paint (including primer).

The fastest way to paint, especially if you are on your own, is to use a sprayer. They are easy to use, with a little practice. If you haven’t used one before you may find that you struggle to get an even coat. You should always paint in vertical stripes, not horizontal. Additionally, it is a good idea to have someone following after you with a small brush doing small touch-up jobs. Any unevenness will need to be sanded down and repainted. The whole painting process can take a week if you aren’t efficient.

Take pictures

It is a good idea to take pictures throughout the whole process. This is for future reference. For example, if you take pictures of the boat when you are assessing it for damage, you can compare them to after you have repaired or sanded the trouble spots down. If you cant see the trouble spots still, great! If you can, it will help you keep an eye on them after you have painted too. It’s a good idea to catalog all of these areas if they start to become regular problems you may want to have your boat looked at by a mechanic. You might also like to have a before and after picture for your blog, or just as a personal memento.

Hopefully, you now have all the theory needed to paint your boat. There is a lot more that goes into painting your boat than simply grabbing some paint and a brush. It takes planning, practice, and attention to detail. If you follow this guide you will have no trouble at all. If this is your first time painting your boat, don’t be disheartened if it takes a lot longer than you expected. Speed will come with time, it is far more important to get the job done right than get it done quickly. If you put the work in you will be painting like a pro in no time at all.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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