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new Sprayhoods
Whether its a new hood, complete with Stainless steel frame or simply time to replace you trusted but worn old sprayhood, Sabre sails has a solution for you.
Experience has Taught us how to design a hood that complements the lines of your yacht whilst providing optimum protection from the elements.
Sabre Sails can supply a brand new sprayhood for you simply by copying your existing hood!
prices Starting from £450.00 offering significant savings over traditional methods.
years of experience has taught us how to take your old, worn and usually shrunk hood and return to you a product that restores the original integrity of your original design.
Sail protection.
Take care that all sharp corners and points such as bottle screws, split pins, stanchions, backstay blocks and spreader ends are well taped so that the sail the sail can be hoisted in one go. Mark the positions of the spreader ends on the sail so that appropriate self-adhesive Dacron protection patches can be applied at these points. Other “sensitive” parts of the sail, for example where a genoa rubs on a stanchion or pulpit or a batten pocket of a fully-battened mainsail rubs against the rigging, can be protected in the same way. Halyard tension and use of leech lines
Do not set the halyard tension too high, a vertical fold behind the luff with wind pressure in the sail is an indication that the halyard tension is too high. Use no more halyard tension than necessary in order to pull out horizontal folds in the foot. Use the leech line with care and do not pull it tighter than necessary to silence the leech, for example, when more sheet tension is required the slot is larger as the wind strength decreases.
Sails should be folded or rolled so that sharp folds and kinks are avoided. Fold the sail in pleats of 60-70 cm parallel to the foot, then roll it loosely and store it in a large sail bag. Before a mainsail is stowed on the boom, the tension of the outhaul must be released. – Always store sails in a dry condition in a clean and ventilated room – If wet or damp sails remain on board, do not fold them but keep them loose in a well ventilated place – Never dry sails by hoisting them and letting them flap.
The combination of moisture and insufficient ventilation can result in mould and mildew on the sail. The lifespan and strength of the sail are not affected in any way, but it’s not a pretty sight and mildew is usually very difficult to remove.
When not in use, stow sails out of the effects of strong sunlight. A good sail cover and roller genoa cover offer the best protection for your sails, even when the genoa has an anti-UV coating or anti-UV strips sewn along the leech and foot.
We strongly advise that you use your new sail in calm conditions the first time. Even though modern sail materials do not need to be “sailed-in”, this can help to evenly set the sail. The performance and lifespan of the sail will certainly benefit. – Do not use the sail above the wind range for which it was designed. – Reef the sail as soon as the circumstances require. – Avoid letting the sails flog as much as possible. – Take care to always set the correct fairlead positions to avoid permanently stretching the leech or the foot. – Give the lee sheet plenty of slack when tacking, never let the foresail hang on the spreaders.
Damage or small tears in the sail can be repaired temporarily using self-adhesive Dacron tape or spinnaker repair tape. Thoroughly clean and dry the repair area and apply the tape to both sides. At the first opportunity take the sail back to a sailmaker for a professional repair.
Remove any salt deposits from the sail by rinsing it with clean, fresh water. Blood and mildew should be removed as soon as possible; brush away as much as possible with a firm, dry brush and let the affected area soak for 2 hours with a mild bleach solution (1% chlorine). Then rinse with clean water and use a soft brush to remove the remaining dirt. Rust stains can be cleaned with special purpose commercially available products. Carefully read the owner’s manual. Oil, grease and tar stains can be removed using light solvents such as acetone, special stain-removers and K2R or gasoline; always rinse the solvent residue from the sail with clean water.
Your new spray hood and / or cockpit tent is carefully designed and manufactured. For these we only use high quality, stable fabrics and use top quality finishes. All maintenance tips that apply to a spray hood and/or cockpit tent obviously also apply to biminis and accessories such as rocons, sail covers, dodgers, etc. that are made of the same material. It is important for you to keep your sprayhood and/or cockpit tent in optimum condition for as long as possible. We would therefore like to give you some tips on use and maintenance.
Make sure there are no point loads on the window material (e.g. by pushing hands against it) because it is a very flexible window film susceptible to deformation and it probably will not return to its original form. Also make sure that the sail cover is not rubbing on the top of the spray hood. Doing so may cause chafe marks that can not be removed. Tension When the spray hood (and/or cockpit tent) is first mounted on the boat, it is usually set up very tight. This is done intentionally in order to stretch out the fabric. Over time, the spray hood and/or cockpit tent will take shape and the tension will disappear. Leakage at the seams Sometimes it happens that leakage occurs at the seams during rain. This problem resolves itself after a few weeks because the stitching swells up naturally and no longer leaks. The stitch holes close themselves up. Folding, storage and storage Sprayhoods and/or cockpit tents must be folded or rolled so that creases and sharp bends are avoided and the windows lie flat without creases. • After drying store spray hoods and/or cockpit tents in a clean and ventilated room. • Never dry sprayhoods by hoisting them and letting them flap in the wind. The combination of moisture and insufficient ventilation can result in mould and mildew on the sprayhood and/or cockpit tent. Although the lifespan and strength of the product is not affected, it is not a pretty sight. Weathering marks are often impossible to prevent or avoid in products that are always exposed to the elements. Due to the current environmental regulations, it is impossible for manufacturers to produce fabrics that are resistant to all forms of mould. Our increasingly warm and wet climate is also a contributing factor. Also, the windows may get a white haze that is hard to remove.
The sprayhood is made of a plastic coated fabric (e.g. Stamoid) or an acrylic fabric (e.g. Sunbrella or Markilux). Plastic coated fabric does not discolour and acrylic fabric is also colour-fast, except for red colouring. These can become lighter. The thread used to sew the panels together is a combination of cotton and polyester. The cotton seals the holes and the polyester gives strength. Because the cotton is on the outside of the thread it can fade in the sunlight. This is unfortunately unavoidable. Maintenance Acrylic fabric has a coating on the inner surface. This serves to waterproof the fabric. The downside is that this coating is susceptible to mould. This is unavoidable, but at least it removed. To avoid mould growth the hood must be regularly cleaned on the outside with clean water and a very soft brush or microfibre cloth and rinsed thoroughly with clean water. Vinyl hoods can also be cleaned with water and with a special vinyl cleaner when they are very dirty. Over time the plastic windows will become less transparent due to the effect of UV. This effect is unavoidable. If this occurs the windows must be replaced. Zippers should be kept free by regularly spraying them with a Teflon spray (without grease). Since the tongue of the zipper is metal it must also be kept clean. This tongue is made of a metal alloy that has poor or no salt resistance.
Damage or minor tears in the sprayhood can be temporarily repaired with tape. Thoroughly clean and dry the repair area and apply the tape to both sides. Do not leave this in place too long because it is likely that tape residue will stay on the fabric upon removal. At the first opportunity take the sprayhood back to a sailmaker for a professional repair.
Remove any salt deposits from the sprayhood by rinsing it with clean, fresh water. Most stains can be removed with lukewarm water and a soft brush and/or microfibre cloth. Cleaning products Several cleaning products are available from our watersport shop, for example: • 303 high tech fabric cleaner ( for acrylic fabric) • 303 high tech fabric guard ( for acrylic fabric) • Red Gull no. 2 ( for plastic coated fabric) • Starbrite fabric and sprayhood cleaner • Starbrite waterproofing with Teflon Rust stains can be cleaned with special purpose commercially available products. Carefully read all the instructions and try first on an inconspicuous place. Oil, grease and tar stains can be removed using special stain removers such as K2R or white spirit; always rinse the residue of these products from the spray hood with clean water and try on an inconspicuous place first.
Before installing a new spray hood make sure that your boat is clean. When fitting the spray hood (e.g. at the beginning of the season) fasten all the snap fasteners on the front first. Then fit the tubes in the tube sleeves and fasten the zippers. Then evenly fasten the two straps (port and starboard) to line up to the snap fasteners on either side of the boat. Finally, fasten the side fasteners.
Fitting the cockpit tent to the sprayhood When fitting the cockpit tent to the sprayhood it is better, especially in the beginning, to fasten the cockpit tent to the sprayhood first (zip together) then zip the tubes into the tube sleeves and then fasten the straps on the cockpit tent also evenly fastening the snap fasteners at the right positions. After closing the zippers finally fasten the back snap fasteners.
Instructions for rocon (roller genoa cover)• Roll up the genoa as smooth as possible, slacken the sheets and make fast the clew then lay the sheets in long coils under the clew. • Attach the spinnaker‐ or second genoa sheet onto the hoisting point of the cover. • Close the zipper, zip it up for 10 cm and fasten the snap fastener. • Hold the zip slider firmly or tie the it with an approximately 1 m line to the pulpit and slowly hoist up the cover. • Once the cover is over the fattest point‐ the clew – the upper part can be pulled up all the way to the top. • Once it is completely hoisted, you can pull both lacing lines down simultaneously so that all slack is taken out of the cover. • Make sure that the cover is properly tightened because constant flapping may damage both the sail and the cover. • Fasten off the lacing lines.
Source: http://www.devriessails.nl
When it comes to cost, it all depends on the kind of sailing you do and your willingness to be self-sufficient, says Jonty Pearce
Innovation Credit: Graham Snook/YM
Aurial , our Southerly 105 ketch, had spent a year in the Mediterranean before we bought her a little over eight years ago. The sun is strong in the Med, and ultraviolet had wreaked havoc on anything left on deck. A plastic container used for the stern anchor fractured at my touch, and the sprayhood stitching had virtually given up the ghost; I hardly dared touch it in case another seam started to split.
The trouble was, we’d pretty well scraped the barrel dry when stretching ourselves to buy her. My accountant, a lugubrious soul, had told me that I could not afford a yacht. He was, of course, right, but the statement was red rag to a bull and the purchase was duly agreed on my 50th birthday: a classic midlife crisis. However, I think his accountancy vision of yachting was that of posing on a half-million 50′ world girding yacht moored against the quay in Cannes, replete with skimpily clad blondes (some of them male), while wearing smart deck shoes, blazers with brass buttons, white shorts and a peaked cap clearly labelled ‘Captain’. The Welsh equivalent in Neyland Yacht Haven fortunately does not demand this standard of attire, and those dressed in such a manner would be the focus of considerable interest. No, in Neyland anti-foul splattered shoes, torn and stained trousers, and unsavoury shirts that have survived accidental holding tank spillage are totally acceptable. Not that we can’t scrub up well when we need to; it’s just that smart clothing does not stay smart long when scrabbling around in the bilge after dropping ones mobile phone under the engine during its service. Contrary to my accountant’s vision of fully serviced yachting, mine is one of do it yourself, and I have proved my bean counter wrong by following the self-sufficiency mantra.
Which brings me back to the sprayhood. Remember the sprayhood? It was the rotten one. Rather than investing half a grand or more on a new one, I spent £100 on a tough sewing machine that not only coped with restitching every single sprayhood seam but also let me make instrument covers, a binnacle cover, an anchor windlass cover, and spray dodgers. Luckily the material and windows of the sprayhood had been sound, but the cloth itself has now reached the end of its life even though the stitching is still strong. It looks wrinkly (think Norah Batty), tatty, grey, mildew stained and unsavoury, so I know I have to blow the dust off my wallet and commission a new one.
At the Southampton Boat Show we wandered the aisles and interrogated the canvas makers for quotes and ideas. Our specifications were for a replacement sprayhood that extended into a combination bimini and cockpit tent, whilst not inhibiting deck access or preventing us using the genoa winches. Oh, and Carol didn’t want any holes drilled for new fasteners. And we did not want any bulky folded canvas and poles where we sit on the cockpit coaming. And Aurial is a ketch with the mizzen mast sitting right on the forward edge of the rear deck. Needless to say, we came away disillusioned. No existing designs really fitted, so we bought the excellent Habitent cockpit tent instead while we thought about things.
This winter I am determined to put my own ideas to test. The mizzen mast’s presence can be turned to advantage by using it to tension and support a cockpit tent/bimini. The spinnaker winches that perch on the coamings level with it are to become the bases for the rear cockpit stainless steel hoop. The forward end of the cockpit cover will zip to the lip of a new replacement sprayhood, and the sides and rear section will be detachable to provide shade or shelter when we don’t require a full tent. I’m not sure of the detail of the side doors or windows yet – but I’m sure all will become clear after I visit Aurial with a length of alkathene piping, some old sheets, and my trusty sewing machine to construct a template that our local canvas genius will be able follow at a fraction of the cost of a bespoke supplier.
I find yachting is at its most satisfying when self-sufficient inventiveness and skill an be merged into a satisfying solution at a minimal cost. Especially when it proves the accountant wrong.
Jonty Pearce
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11: With the tape rubbed down, drop the new window on top of it. Check the position is correct, and then peel back the top protective cover of the tape to expose the adhesive. Rub the new window down on to it as you go. 12: The new window is now held firmly on top of the old one, and is ready to be sewn into place.
A sprayhood, also known as a dodger, is a protective cover designed to offer essential protection to both the open hatch and crew on sailing yachts. Supported by a sturdy 2 or 3-bar stainless steel frame, it features clear window panels at the front to maintain optimal visibility. The primary purpose of a sprayhood is to shield the crew from ...
Sprayhood fixings made of quality marine grade stainless steel or plastic. Where viable we reuse your existing boat fittings (unless the position is unsuitable) Manufactured to fit your existing frame or new frame can be supplied. Frame bar pockets come zipped for ease of removal. Hood can be tensioned at the rear with integral webbing straps.
Time to replace your Dodger or Sprayhood? Tight on budget? We've captured the whole process to help you DIY, along with some extra tips from a pro.Trusted sa...
Mark the centre opening on the new canvas for the backstay flap and around the hole. Cut the opening and sew a Velcro flap on to each side - hooks on the lower surface and loops on the upper. 9. Edge the backstay opening and all of the outer edges of the bimini with grey tape for neatness and strength.
908. Location. West Sussex, England. Visit site. David, I have had two repairs carried out (very well, including lots of stitching) on my spray hood, at a reasonable cost by Jane Clout ("sails, canvas, upholstery") she operates from home at 14 Adelaide Square, Shoreham-by-Sea, BN43 6LN, 01273 452481 and 077483 58885.
In this video, we save hundreds of pounds by replacing the vinyl windows in our old sprayhood / dodger rather than buying a new one! We remove the old torn w...
To make every effort to put things right if they do go wrong (rare but obviously possible!) Call Sail and Cover on 01473 780075 to discuss your requirements. Contact us at: Sail and Cover. Unit 2. Penny Corner. Farthing Road Ind. Est. Ipswich. Suffolk.
replacement Sprayhoods. Sabre Sails can supply a brand new sprayhood for you simply by copying your existing hood! prices Starting from £450.00 offering significant savings over traditional methods. years of experience has taught us how to take your old, worn and usually shrunk hood and return to you a product that restores the original ...
Sprayhood repairs. Damage or minor tears in the sprayhood can be temporarily repaired with tape. Thoroughly clean and dry the repair area and apply the tape to both sides. ... Before installing a new spray hood make sure that your boat is clean. When fitting the spray hood (e.g. at the beginning of the season) fasten all the snap fasteners on ...
Sprayhoods - Dolphin Sails are sailmakers and cover makers for boats, yachts and marine applications, based in Essex & the South Coast of UK, & Palma, Majorca. Call us on +44 (0)1255 243366 or email [email protected]
Aurial, our Southerly 105 ketch, had spent a year in the Mediterranean before we bought her a little over eight years ago.The sun is strong in the Med, and ultraviolet had wreaked havoc on anything left on deck. A plastic container used for the stern anchor fractured at my touch, and the sprayhood stitching had virtually given up the ghost; I hardly dared touch it in case another seam started ...
For frames we use as standard premium grade 316 3/4"stainless steel. The fittings we use to secure the hood to the boat (if there are existing fittings we always try to utilise them unless damaged) will be either, or a combination of; Lift the dot studs, press studs, turnbuckles, hooks, lacing buttons. The hood itself would made out of acrylic ...
SAILING YACHT SPRAYHOOD. The C&J Marine Sprayhood is modern, versatile and above all, innovative. Not only is it the perfect stand-alone product, but it also provides the foundations for further adaptations of C&J Marine top-of-the-range covers that will transform the Sprayhood into a first-class multi-functional system.
For winter covers and larger heavy duty boat covers Topgun a durable polyester fabric is used. About our Sprayhoods. Spray hoods and cockpit enclosures, have stainless steel frames bent specifically to suit the yacht. These are in 316 stainless usually 16 gauge for rigidity. We use 3/4,7/8 and 1 inch for larger constructions.
A sprayhood will help to keep the cockpit dry and comfortable and the hatchway will be protected, allowing it to be left open for ventilation. All of our sprayhoods are made to order; constructed using either coated Solacryl or Sunbrella Acrylic and are available in a wide range of colours. Thread options are standard Hemingway and Bartlett ...
Sail Shape 01726 833731. Our standard sprayhoods are made from marine grade acrylic, with 2 windows and provisions for 2 frames with push through sleeves. £695 + VAT Additional windows: £35 Zip sleeve: £15 per meter Drop down zip window: £60 Frames made from 316 stainless steel, 19mm x 1 mm thick tube bent to suit boat on site:
Fellow sailors are well protected behind the cover. The additional part is attached using an overlap on the aft edge of the sprayhood, which is braced downwards on both sides of the coaming. Additional rubber stoppers prevent the overlap from slipping. Even simpler, but more expensive: attaching the sprayhood with a zip, as with a connecting ...
Just the materials cost £100 at trade price. All the farting about involved in making a one off easily comes to another £400 at workshop rates. Now if you ordered 1,000 sprayhoods all the same, I could do them real cheap - more like £40 in time. And NO I wont make one for you.
We use the very best marine grade materials and products meaning that your new cover will last for many years to come. - Repairs to marine canvas and boat hoods. Restitching seams, zips, rips, wear and tears; replacement of worn out hook and loop (velcro) strips; replacement of hood fastenings. Easing of stretched and shrunken canvas panels.
Dolgoprudny is a town in Moscow Oblast, Russia, located about 20 kilometers north of Moscow city center. The town's name is derived from Russian "Долгий пруд" —a long and narrow pond situated in the northeastern part of the town. Photo: Георгий Долгопский, CC BY-SA 4.0. Ukraine is facing shortages in its brave fight ...
Mads is making a sprayhood for our boat. For those of you who don't know, a sprayhood (also "dodger") is the canvas hood that covers part of the cockpit and the entrance to the boat. You can see the old one in the picture below. The one in this picture was old and brittle, and it had seen many repairs in its time.
Dolgoprudny (Russian: Долгопру́дный, Russian pronunciation: [dəlɡɐˈprudnɨj]) is a town in Moscow Oblast, Russia, located about 20 kilometers (12 mi) north of Moscow city center. The town's name is derived from Russian "Долгий пруд" (dolgy prud, lit. "long pond")—a long and narrow pond situated in the northeastern part of the town.