sailboat winch service

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• Boat Maintenance
• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Winch Servicing Basics

While using the right winch grease is important, servicing the winch before the grease turns to gum, washes out, or the pawls start to hang up is more important. Makers recommend annual servicing, but racers and full-time cruisers may go one to three years, and weekend sailors might stretch it a bit further. Three years really would be the max, unless you can live with increased wear. If you go any longer, you risk increased wear and even damage. If the pawls hang up and the drum releases, parts can break, and people can get hurt as the handle whips around.

Here is a quick review of the basics of winch servicing. Most major manufacturers offer handy videos and guides that can help guide the project:

1. Read the instructions. Most winches come apart by loosening a single screw or removing a clip, with little risk of losing important parts. If in doubt, tape a cardboard box around the winch to catch any strays; the caged bearings can stick to the drum and fall out when it is removed. Note the orientation of the line stripper. Move the parts to a safe work area.

2. Work on one winch at a time. Seemingly identical winches a few years apart in age can have significantly different parts. Weve wasted a few minutes figuring this out.

3. When disassembling the winch, keep track of the order you take things apart in; a phone camera can be helpful for this. Specifically, watch out for the pawls and pawl springs. If you are working on the boat, a cafeteria tray (or similar) is very handy.

4. Degrease the winch parts with mineral spirits. A paintbrush, tooth brush, and lots of rags are helpful.

5. Replace the pawls and springs if they have seen more than a few rebuilds, if they seem worn, or if the motion is not crisp. These are lubricated with oil, not grease, since grease can thicken and cause them to hang up. A manufacturers winch-servicing kit may contain special oil, but motor oil works well, too.

6. Grease all of the gears and bearings before assembly. They don’t need to be generously packed the way vehicle bearings are, since excess can run down into the pawls; they just need to be lightly coated with good surface coverage. Wipe a very thin coat of grease on all internal parts to prevent corrosion.

7. When reassembling the winch, be certain to face the line stripper in the correct direction.

8. Add canvas winch covers. They may reduce wash-out, and we know they protect UV-vulnerable plastic parts.

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Is there any value to winch covers of a particular design? Or is any cover just a sack?

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How to service a winch – video guide

Rachael Sprot

• November 29, 2020

Servicing winches regularly is critical for safety, to keep things working easily and to prolong your equipment's life. Rachael Sprot of Rubicon 3 explains how to disassemble, clean and rebuild your winch.

A backwinding winch can be extremely dangerous and cause serious injury, so winches should be serviced every year in order to clean the mechanism, check for damage and replace worn parts.

Springs and pawls, the heart of the ratchet system inside, are most likely to jam or fail, so should be replaced on a regular basis. You’re also checking that the gears and teeth are not worn or burred, and that there is no serious corrosion. After that, it’s a simple case of cleaning and regreasing to keep things spinning smoothly.

1. Setting up

Most winches can be taken apart with two tools – a flat-headed screwdriver and a set of allen keys. Protect your decks with a sheet or cardboard, and it’s a good idea to put something over the guardwires to stop any parts dropping over the side. Have a small container to hand for the small parts. You’ll need a cleaning agent, a toothbrush, winch grease, and oil. Finally have a manual to hand in case you get lost, and a smartphone to take photos to retrace your steps if needs be.

2. Stripping down

Some winches will have a circlip or locking ring, but on this Harken winch, there’s a screw at the bottom of the handle socket, which allows you to remove the cover and undo the screws that hold the drum on. As you lift the drum take care no bearings drop out of the bottom.

You can then remove the bearings, undo the screws around the assembly base and lift it off to reveal the gears. Carefully take the gears off and lay them out in order, the same way up you take them out.

To remove the pawls, slide a small flat-headed screwdriver under the spring to lift it out of its recess, and slide it out.

3. Cleaning

Grease collects salt and dirt so will need cleaning off. Use a tub of mineral spirit or diesel and scrub with a toothbrush. As you go, check for wear or corrosion.

Dry off, then grease the gears and teeth with winch grease or marine grease. Non-metal bearings don’t need to be greased, but a tiny amount can help.

4. Reassembly

Replace the pawls and springs into their housings – pinch the spring into the pawl, then slide it down. Just use pawl oil, or light oil, as grease will go sticky and can make the pawl stick.

Make sure the gear rings go back in the right way round. Newer winches have rings that are reversible for longer life. Before replacing the gears, check the pinions are secure and free of corrosion.

Secure the central body, replace the bearings and slide the drum back on.

5. Final checks

Make sure the rope stripper for the self tailer points into the cockpit, as this is where the rope tail will go as you winch. Dab anti-corrosion compound onto the screws and hand tighten – check with a torque wrench if you have one.

Give it a spin to check the ratchet works and the winch doesn’t backwind.

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How to Service a Two-Speed Winch on a Sailboat

Winches are often used in and left exposed to the elements, including salt water spray.  routine maintenance will keep your equipment working as intended and ready when you need it. [how-to video].

On any given sailboat, there are at least 2 or 3 winches and on larger boats, there can be many more. I have 6 on my 41-foot sloop and one is a powered winch.

At upwards of $6,000 or more per winch, keeping them functioning reliably is as much of a financial necessity as an operational one.

Here’s a step-by-step overview for servicing a two-speed winch on a sailboat… including a full how-to video  showing how I serviced my starboard jib winch.

Mechanical Advantage

Whether you are raising a sail, trimming a sail, hauling crew up the mast on a halyard, or maybe adjusting a spring line used to raft up with another boat, you use a winch for the mechanical advantage it provides in handling a given load.  That is, raising a sail that weighs 100 pounds may only need about 25 pounds of force when cranking the winch.

The high speed gear ratio may be 3:1 , for example, while the low speed ratio could be 10:1 .  (That is, it takes less force to turn using the low speed gears but you have to crank the winch handle more times than with the high speed gears.)  These are just examples and the specifics of your winch may vary.

The effort required to crank a winch under load depends on several factors including drum size, length of the winch handle, gear ratios, and friction from all the fairleads and turning blocks on the line in use.  In a simplistic example assuming no friction, raising a 100 pound load with a gear ratio of 10:1 requires 10 pounds of force.

Speaking of friction, it may also be introduced by worn winch gears and grit and dirt in the internal workings.  That, as much as anything else, is a reason to service your winches.

Servicing a Sailboat Winch

Performing winch maintenance on your sailboat is simply disassembling the winch, inspecting and cleaning the parts, then lubricating and reassembling the unit.  You may or may not have to replace parts but at a minimum, one should replace the pawl springs as described below.

Before you begin and especially if this your first time doing this, I recommend you find a box bigger than the base of your winch .  Then cut a hole in the bottom so you can slip the box over the winch.  Try to tape the box in place so it can’t move but also so that removing the winch drum is not compromised.

The purpose of the box is to catch and contain any parts that might fall out of the winch unexpectedly.  This is especially true for winches that sit on a coaming or near the gun’l.  It would be at least an annoyance to have to go buy replacement parts that dropped overboard assuming you know what parts you may have lost.

In addition to the suggested containment box, you will want to have:

• a set of dental probes
• one or more toothbrushes
• a basin of some sort
• some solvent with which to degrease and clean the parts

Some people suggest using kerosene or gasoline.  I think those are much too volatile to use for this purpose.  I use paint thinner and it works just fine.

You will likely want to spread some newspaper and/or a plastic drop cloth to protect the fiberglass and other materials in the area in which you are working.  Knowing that I will be immersing parts into a solvent, I like to wear nitrile gloves to protect my hands.

The first step is to unscrew the top cap .  You will probably need a screw driver and hammer to tap lightly on the cap to loosen it and then finish by unscrewing by hand.  Briefly inspect each part as it comes off and then place the parts into a secure container.  Note that you may want to have a separate container or basin with the solvent in it.

With slight variation depending on make and model, the disassembly steps are:

• Loosen and unscrew the top cap
• Remove the stripper arm
• Remove the drum
• Remove the roller bearings, spacer, and bottom fender washer
• Remove the axle pins and gear clusters at the base
• Remove the keyed retainer clips at the top
• Remove the central shaft

You may wish to photograph each step and each part as the disassembly progresses.

Next you will clean each part in the solvent, using the dental picks to clean any solid clumps or gummy residue.  Much like a dentist does, use the probe to feel for pits, accumulations, or other defects.  Clean what you can and determine if a given part needs to be replaced due to wear or defect.

The gear clusters are each a set of two gears, one rotating inside another with a pair of pawls that allow the gears to only spin in one direction.  Be sure to clean both gears and all the recesses.

Replacing Pawl Springs

Particularly check the pawls for defects.  The pawls are what keep the winch from back-spinning under load.  They are essential and must be up to the task.

The “springs” are little more than stiff wire bent into a V-shape with a loop at the apex for a spring force.

It is not worth reusing them.  Springs can be had inexpensively .  Just replace them when you reassemble the winch.

Reassembling the Winch

When all the parts are well cleaned and the solvent has been wiped away or evaporated, you may begin reassembly.  Each part should be adequately but not excessively lubricated.  Over-lubing promotes clumping and the accumulation of grit and salt particles.

The only exception to lubrication is the O-ring under the stripper arm.  Some O-rings may not tolerate grease well and they really do not need grease for their sealing function.

Start by slipping the pawl springs into the notch on the pawl.  Then slide the pawl into its gear until the spring stops it.  Compress the spring to allow the pawl to slip into its socket all the way.  Some technicians recommend lubing the pawls with oil instead of grease so they do not stick.  There are also light winch greases which can be applied in a very thin coat.  There should not be gobs of grease anywhere, just a coating.

Next slide the (smaller) gear with the pawls into the (larger) mating gear.  Make sure the inner gear turns as expected.

Install the gear clusters first, being mindful of the correct orientation.  When both clusters have been installed, spin them to verify smooth and even rotation.  Now replace the fender washer, one roller bearing, the spacer, and then the second roller bearing in that order.  Next insert the central shaft and the keyed retainer clips.

Slip the winch drum over the entire assembly.  Reinstall the O-ring on the stripper arm position it as desired while meshing with the keyed retainer clips.  Finally screw on the top cap finger tight.  And you’re done!

Your winch should give you many years of service with this simple maintenance procedure.  While racing boats may service their equipment after every race or practice, cruisers can reasonably service their winches at intervals of a couple of years OR until one detects unusual resistance or operation.  Should the latter happen, don’t wait to service the winch or you risk more serious damage or even personal injury.

I enjoy performing as much of my own maintenance when I can.  It helps me stay in touch with my boat and it gives me more reason to be aboard!

Video How-to: Performing Winch Maintenance

Watch the video below to see how I serviced my starboard jib winch.

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Winch servicing

How often should you service your winches?

You should service your winches before the season and at least once during the season. If you race your boat hard, check your winches before every regatta. Keep your winches clean and operating smoothly by flushing them regularly with fresh water. Check pawls and springs, bearings, gears, and spindles for signs of wear and corrosion.

The process is simple

Dismantling a winch, degreasing, inspecting, lubricating and reassembling it is not difficult if you prepare, and are methodical. Preparation:   Have the correct tools and consumables ready. Get an exploded diagram of the winch. If it is a Harken winch, you will find these included in each winch manual   here . Surround the winch with towels in order to protect the deck and reduce “parts bounce.” If you are near the rail, put towels over the life lines to try to block the route to oblivion. Wear gloves to protect your skin from the winch grease and general dirt. If you wear two pair, one over the other, you can take the dirty outside pair off as you near completion so you don't get everything dirty as reassemble the winch. Be methodical:   When dismantling the winch, compare what you find to the diagram. Lay out the parts logically so you can be confident about where they came from. When dismantling parts with bearings inside, don't let the bearings fall out. The main bearings inside the drum are traditionally most likely to do this, so lift the drum slowly and check to see whether the bearings are on the housing or stuck in the drum. If they are in the drum, wait until they fall, or tilt the drum so that you can see what is happening and so that they fall into the boat rather than out of it. If something does drop, make sure you don't compound the problem by over reacting, and  turning a minor irritation (dropping a washer or bearing) into an expensive proposition (throwing the drum into the water while trying to catch the original dropped part).

Degrease and inspect the winch

Clean all the old grease and muck off the parts of the winch. (Use a tub or bucket tub with mineral spirits, diesel fuel or commercial degreaser. Do not use gasoline, which may damage plastic parts.) Assess the condition of the winch. Look for bent or chipped teeth on the gears. Don't forget the teeth on the inside of the drum. Make sure the bearings are intact and undamaged. Look at the holes where gear shafts, etc. are located and make sure they are not elongated. Check the pawls and springs, and especially the pocket where they reside. Look for any corrosion. If your winch has a thrust bearing (a row of steel ball bearings under a cover at the base of the housing that takes the downward load on the drum), do not open this without taking precautions, or you will have ball bearings going in all directions. If the bearings are not dry, leave them alone. Replace worn or corroded parts as necessary.

Reassemble your winch

Hopefully you have a nice clean winch base so that you can start the reassembly process. This generally is a reversal of the dismantling process. Lubricate as you go. Squeeze some winch grease into a bowl and apply it with a paint brush. Apply grease to the teeth of each gear and also to the shaft on which the gear sits. If the winch is big enough that the gears have bearings, grease the bearings too.   DO NOT grease pawls and springs. This will cause them to stick and could result in a free-spinning winch. Oil the pawls with properly formulated pawl oil. Grease around the handle socket if it is contact with a bronze housing. When reassembling Harken Classic winches, make sure the ratchet gears are the correct way up, with the pawls sitting properly in the teeth. Failure to ensure this may cause excessive wear or friction in the winch. Once the winch is reassembled and closed, test it by spinning it by hand; put a handle in and wind both ways. You should have a nice, easy-to-spin winch ready for all that the sea, wind, and you can throw at it. Got a question? Ask us! If you have any questions about maintaining your winches, or anything else, feel free to email us at   [email protected] . Twitter:   @Harken Facebook:   Harken If you would like to link to or reprint this article please contact  [email protected]

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Sailing Winch Secrets: How To Use a Winch

A winch can rip off your finger or save your back.  If you know what you're doing, nothing beats this modern convenience for hauling in a sail in heavy breeze.

One of the most conspicuous features of a modern sailboat is the high chrome shine of the winches. Your eye is drawn to their steely glow while your inner voice tells you that these things mean danger.

They really are one of the most dangerous pieces of equipment on a sailboat, but also one of the most utilitarian tools a boat may have. By following a few precautions and always keeping your bearings about you, you can use this tool for all sorts of functions and still keep all your fingers attached at the socket.

Table of contents

The Traditional Function Of A Winch

When I signed up for the sailing team at the US Coast Guard Academy, the coach walked in and asked who in the room had ever used a winch before? The quizzical looks on many of the  young swab faces must have  told him that he had very few real sailors in the newly minted class of 1994, and he explained, “You know that thing that looks like a coffee grinder that you wind around with a handle?”

Several faces lit up with that explanation and he immediately tapped those in the know for the big boat team. The rest of the young swabs would be sent to the dinghy team, while the select few would be elevated to relative stardom by joining on the crew to race the big boats in the weekend club series at area yacht clubs.

By being selected for the big boat team,  we would be allowed to leave the base most weekends of the fall and play with civilians at yacht club parties who would fawn over the fact that academy cadets were at THEIR party. That was my favorite function of the winch at that point, to get me into parties, but not really how a winch is supposed to be used.

Winches are however just as the coach described them. They look like big coffee grinders and you spin them around with a winch handle. They come in lots of sizes, but all pretty much have the same shape and function - to haul in the jib sheets to trim the jib on the upwind leg.

I have seen little brass ones no bigger than a cat food can on old sailboats from the 60s and I have seen huge drum sized winches on yachts that would make you puke with envy. Regardless of their size however, they all do pretty much the same thing - pull in the jib sheets.

How To Use A Winch

Winch operation is pretty simple too - after all, it is a simple machine. You wrap the line around the winch three or four times from the bottom up, pulling the line in with one hand and while you crank the winch with the other. On big boats or heavy breeze days, you can team up on a winch with a crew mate,  where one person is the grinder and the other person pulls in the line or “tails the winch”.

The friction of the line wraps around the drum of the winch which usually has some kind of ridges etched in it for better holding effect. As you pull the tail of the line out of the winch the winch spins on bearings and offers you a better purchase on the line than you would have if you were just pulling the line directly from the jib.

The person grinding (or your other hand) can assist your pulling hand or tailor pull the line in by manually spinning the winch with the winch handle. This is where you can exact revenge on a grinder by telling them to grind the winch without actually pulling on the line making them think they are doing work without actually doing anything. (You have to pull on the line for a winch to work).

That’s it - an elegantly simple machine doing a yeoman’s effort of work - better living through technology.

Winch Accidents

Who would think that something so elegantly simple could be so dangerous? Winches while rarely causing lethal injuries, have been known to make some pretty grotesque origami of fingers and hands of errant pit crew (the people who trim the jib in a sailboat race are called the pit crew because they work in the the cockpit and all they do is grind winches).

All too often, a tailor will allow their hands to get a little too close to the winch wraps on the drum and the line will suck your hand into the wraps, crushing, twisting and mangling your fingers and hands.

This is where the grinder can get their revenge by grinding your hands to pulp in the drum of the winch, but my hope is no one is  malicious enough to intentionally grind someone’s hand up into a winch on a sailboat.

There are ways however to avoid having your hands and fingers sucked into a winch. That  comes from how you hold the line. Grasping the line with your thumbs towards you and pulling hand over hand is the safest way to grasp a line. This keeps the finger that makes us human, the thumb, furthest away from danger and allows you drop the line in a hurry if things ever get out of hand.

Invariably however, some people hold the line the wrong way and that is when tragedy strikes.

Wrapping The Winch

The way you wrap a winch is key as one way will work and the other way will not. Most winches will be wrapped from the bottom up in a clockwise direction. I am a little dislexic when it comes to how to load a winch, so usually I will give the winch a turn with my hand before I load it to make sure I understand which way it turns.

Once you have wrapped your winch, it is ready to haul- so keep your hands safe as soon as you put the line on the winch. You’ll know it's time to load up your winch or wrap it, when the skipper says “ready about”.

The Tacking Process

With your winch loaded, your boat is ready to tack and you will tell your skipper that you're ready.  Helm over, the bow swings through the wind and at this point you will release the sheet by unwrapping the line from the winch and allowing it to run freely to the other side, where hopefully your grinder has preloaded their winch and are ready to pull in when the jib switches sides.

An effective tack requires the timing of the process to be exact. If you release your winch too soon, your boat will lose speed and fail to complete the tack. If you release your winch wraps too late, your jib can get stuck up on your mast or life lines and may make the boat over tack or turn too far down wind.

The only way to master the timing of the tack is to practice, but with time and practice you will get a feel for how your boat tacks and when you should release the jib sheet.

For more info on tacking please see our article on sailing maneuvers .

Other Uses For Your Winch

Alton Brown of The Food Network  has said that the only unitasker allowed in his kitchen is a fire extinguisher, and I would suggest that that thinking also applies on a sailboat.

The space is too small and efficiency is too imperative to allow any single use tools to have a place on your boat and as such the winch is no different. Did you really think that a winch could only be used for jib sheets?

Winches can be used for all sorts of other functions in a sailboat, many that have no relation to sailing at all.

I use my jib winch for hauling in spring lines or breast lines on breezy days when the wind is setting my boat off the dock. A  few wraps from a dock line and even the most ardent vessels will relent and come alongside a pier or bulkhead.

Winches can also be  located on the mast for hauling halyards and on the stern quarters for hauling spinnaker gear. It is this universal nature of the winch that makes it such a useful tool on a sailboat.

Other functions can include hauling a MOB over the side or cinching in a dinghy for stormy weather. The coupling of blocks and tackle with a well placed winch can turn a deck winch or a mast winch into an integral part of any emergency plan- so get creative.

Self-Tailing, Electric And Other Revelations In Winch Technology

Perhaps I am showing my age, but when I was a boy, winches came in one flavor, manual.

Today however, there are so many advancements in winch technology that you can navigate your vessel and trim your sails with an app on your phone below decks so that you don't even need sunscreen anymore.

Self tailing winches are winches that wrap the tail in a round jam cleat that is located on the top of the drum. When you crank the drum, the winch will pull the tail simultaneously eliminating the need for a crew member to pull your tail for you.

Electric winches go one step further where an electric motor grinds the winch for you while the winch self-tails, making it possible for you to raise and lower your main or trim your jib without ever exerting any physical effort whatsoever.

I have even seen aftermarket products that can turn a traditional manual winch into an electric winch by using a battery operated hand held motor to grind the winch for you. It may seem like cheating to some, but technology in winch grinding has made it possible for all sorts of people with physical limitations to enter the sport of sailing and/or continue to enjoy the sport of sailing well into their senior years.

Winch Care and Maintenance

I am told and have read that caring for one’s winch is very much a DIY project, but taking a winch apart has never been my favorite thing to do. One wrong move and the loss of one bearing makes a $3000 winch into scrap metal.

So to that extent, washing a winch with mild soap and lots of fresh water to keep salt and sand out of the gears is about as far as I go in caring for my winches. Then again, I have never had really expensive boats either.

I have seen lots of people also cover their winches with canvas and my feeling is while this is cute, it doesn’t do a heck of a lot to protect and may in fact promote rust and corrosion on your aluminum, chrome, stainless steel or bronze varieties. However, covering carbon or other composite types of winches may prolong the life of their finish as UV rays can degrade these varieties.

For more on how to disassemble a winch, how to grease a winch and how to install a winch, check out Google. Harken, West Marine and Ronstan all stand to make money selling you on taking  a winch apart because odds are if you do you'll have to buy a new one. I have sailed with winches that were decades old and worked perfectly without ever greasing them or taking them apart;so I will recommend sticking to soap and water. But you do you.

For now though, watch your digits when loading and hauling on your winch and don't get too intimidated by those barrel side jobs on the luxury sailboats. They are all just winches at the core and all they really do is make pulling in lines easier.

So do good, have fun and sail far.

Related Articles

Capt Chris German

Capt Chris German is a life long sailor and licensed captain who has taught thousands to sail over the last 20 years. In 2007, he founded a US Sailing-based community sailing school in Bridgeport, CT for inner city youth and families. When Hurricane Sandy forced him to abandon those efforts, he moved to North Carolina where he set out to share this love for broadcasting and sailing with a growing web-based television audience through The Charted Life Television Network.

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About Adria Winch

The custom designed AW winches, are built to meet demanding technical characteristic and extreme weather conditions in harsh environments.

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Based on that in last 25 years we developed wide range of products. Our quick reaction and flexibility in technical and commercial terms has managed that AW is first choice for shipyards and shipowners for lots of projects.

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To sail a boat in most countries you’ll need an internationally recognized boat licence, such as RYA, ICC, Radio License or CEVNI. However, this rule may vary from one country to another, therefore before departing on your trip we advice you to contact our team to see what kind of licences are accepted.

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