mast ladder for sailboat

My Cruiser Life Magazine

How to Climb a Mast – Is a Mast Ladder Worth It?

One of the inevitable parts of owning a sailboat is climbing the mast. Some people enjoy this task. For them, it’s another part of the adventure. But I am not one of those people.

For me, there is only one task that is worse than going up the mast. I will spare you the gory details, but it may surprise you to learn that it does not involve the toilet. That’s right, climbing the mast is worse for me than dealing with toilet issues.

Mast climbing is made even worse due to my trust issues. While I usually have two or more people around to winch me up, I don’t trust any of them. Not my wife, not the weirdo from the next dock, and not the “professionals” I know who would be willing to help.

So I set out to learn how to do it myself. I am by no means an expert, but I have successfully climbed up and back many times now on several boats. I can do it myself if needed, but I still like having a helper around to hear my screams and fetch me tools.

Safety first, self-climbing gear — block and tackle climbers.

ATN Mast Climber

Hoistable Sailboat Mast Ladder

Mast climber sailboat options for every boat, mast ladder and mast climbing faqs, how to climb a mast with two people.

Before diving into how a solo sailor might climb up the rig, let’s look at how most people tackle the problem. The traditional sailor’s solution is the lowly bosun’s chair.

The bosun’s chair is simply a board attached to wide nylon webbing that you can sit on. The webbing is attached to a halyard, and the halyard is winched up the mast by someone on deck.

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Bosun’s chairs vary in features. Some are as simple as a board with straps. Others are much more secure and comfortable, with a back to keep your bum in place and straps around your thighs to ensure it does not slip. Of course, the more secure and comfortable it is, the easier it is to do projects with two hands. Many sailors like to use a climbing safety harness

It takes quite a lot of winching for the deckhand to get you to the top. It’s the only job on my sailboat that makes me wish for an electric winch, actually.

Going up the mast is all about planning and playing the “what if” game. For safety, please make sure everyone involved knows their roles. It’s advisable to put someone on the winch who is well-versed in cleat hitches, clutches, self-tailing or non-self-tailing, and whatever else you’ve got going on. Shouting about which line to secure where and how is the last thing you want to do as you swing 50 feet off the deck.

Always have a safety line. Yes, it increases your work and gives you one more thing to worry about. But it just might save your bacon.

Don’t forget to plan out precisely what you’re going to be doing once you get where you’re going. Walk through every action you need to take.

Make sure you take all of the tools you need—and might need—with you. I like to take as much as I can in a close-fitting messenger or sling bag. The only thing worse than mast climbing is doing it multiple times. Of course, you can have your helper send tools and parts up and down with a bucket, but it adds complexity to the operation and lots of potential to be aggravated.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Lucy, Matt, Chelsea (@boatlifelarks)

How to Climb a Mast Solo

All of this is well and good if you have a helper, but what if there is no one around? Solo mast climbing requires even more planning out and thinking. The same rules apply, but now you’ve got to figure out how to get to the top without anyone else’s help.

A safety line is essential even with these options, so plan accordingly.

The top ways for a solo sailboat mast climber to accomplish the task are listed below.

Block and tackle self-climbers
Climbing ascenders, like the ATN Mast Climber
Fixed mast steps
Hoistable sailboat mast ladders

Professional riggers have been going up masts by themselves for a long time, so it’s no wonder that they’d have some pretty good systems worked out. While some depend on a ground-side helper to winch them up, many prefer the freedom of using a custom-made block and tackle setup.

If you want to go this route, you’ll want to be very good with rope handling and marlinspike seamanship. You’ll also need to invest in some nice hardware. Most sailing stuff comes marked “not for human climbing.”

Most of these setups attach to the boat’s halyard. You then hoist one end of the setup to the top of the mast, and the other end is attached to your bosun’s chair at deck level. The bitter end is with the chair, and it includes a jammer or stopper. There’s enough purchase in the system to make hoisting yourself up a relatively simple maneuver.

These systems can’t get you right up to the top of the mast, but this is a weak point for most climbers.

ATN Mast Climber

A slightly slicker version of the same idea is the ATN Mast Climber . This gadget is pulled right from the rock climbing world. Out of the box, you need no other rigging or parts to make it work.

Instead of hoisting anything up, the Mast Climber attaches onto an existing static line. Tie a halyard to the deck, and winch a bit to get the line taut. The Mast Climber then attaches to that line for the climb up. It’s easiest if the line isn’t perfectly vertical. I like to attach mine to the coachroof handrails. Being able to attach it anywhere on deck means you can position yourself to best reach whatever you need to work on.

The Mast Climber has two parts: the bosun’s chair climbing harness and the foot straps. Each attaches to your mast line with the climbing equivalent of a rope clutch. With a squeeze, they let you move freely up the rope. But once you release your grip, your weight jams them locked onto the line.

It takes a little practice to use the Mast Climber, but once you get the hang of it, you’ll be going up in no time. To my surprise, coming down is actually a little more challenging because it requires different timing and spacing than going up does. One tip–always wear sturdy shoes and gloves.

The no-brainer solution for salty bluewater solo sailors is to install mast steps. These fixed metal steps attach to each side of the mast and allow you to climb up just like a regular ladder.

The steps are small, and you’ll need a safety line as well. But they do enable you to climb up the mast any time without having to get more equipment or worry too much about it. And short of falling off, they’re better fool-proof and easy to use.

Unfortunately, they are always there – and not exactly pretty. It’s a lot of hardware on your mast, which increases weight and windage aloft. From the installation side, putting them on is a big and expensive project that requires drilling many holes in your beautiful aluminum spar.

You might opt to install only a few steps to help you with other climbing systems. For example, many sailors install a pair or two at the masthead. Then when they arrive with their bosun’s chair or a self-climber, they have something solid to stand on. If the steps are positioned high enough, they’ll even enable you to work on the masthead.

A mast ladder is a hoistable ladder made of webbing. It goes up on the mast on your halyard and attaches into the mast track just like your mainsail—with slides.

Recovery Marine

50 Foot Mast Ladder
Steps Double Reinforced
Easy to Use Mast Ladder
Man Overboard Ladder

Kinleven Marine Mast Ladder

This is probably the nicest hoistable mast ladder on the market. It’s made-to-order for your vessel, so you’ll have to supply a few measurements from your boat to get it built just right.

The best feature is the ladder’s rungs, which are made from sturdy and strong plastic. This gives the ladder the most solid feel of any available options. It’s like climbing a conventional ladder, more or less.

It’s also extremely stable because it is mounted on slides that match your mast track. Unfortunately, you will have to remove your mainsail to load it into the track. That’s a pain but shouldn’t take more than a few minutes.

One of the best mast ladder sailboat owners can choose, the Mast Mate is simple and easy. Where the Kinleyen is a beautiful unit, it is custom made to fit your boat. Some sailors might favor a unit they can use on any boat, and the Mast Mate is just what the ship’s doctor ordered.

The disadvantage of webbing ladders like the Mast Mate is that the steps are made of webbing, too. That can make it hard to get a good foothold, and it’s far from comfortable. However, it does mean that the ladder folds up into a small and light package for storage.

Like the Kinleven, the Mast Made uses mast slides to keep the ladder in place. You might have to sew your own on if the maker doesn’t supply them.

Unless your boat has a mast small enough to put up and down quickly, the day will come when you need to climb it. It’s best to practice and have the gear onboard. That way, you can tackle the task and get back to sailing.

What is a mast ladder?

A mast ladder is one method to climb the mast of a sailboat for maintenance. Sailors often need to climb the mast to inspect the rigging, replace light bulbs, service wind instruments, or free tangled lines.

Mast ladders are made of webbing and collapse for easy storage. When you want to use it, remove your mainsail from the mast track, and insert the slides from the ladder. Hoist the ladder with your main halyard, securing the bottom and tightening the line. Use a second halyard as a safety line if you lose your footing.

Matt has been boating around Florida for over 25 years in everything from small powerboats to large cruising catamarans. He currently lives aboard a 38-foot Cabo Rico sailboat with his wife Lucy and adventure dog Chelsea. Together, they cruise between winters in The Bahamas and summers in the Chesapeake Bay.

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Sailboat Mast Ladder 50 Feet (15.2 m)

Material	Nylon
Brand	Recovery Marine
Product Dimensions	2"W x 50"H
Color	Orange
Special Feature	Compact

About this item

50 Foot Mast Ladder, sailboat mast ladder
Steps Double Reinforced
Easy to Use Mast Ladder
Man Overboard Ladder too

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Product information

Material	Nylon
Brand	Recovery Marine
Product Dimensions	2"W x 50"H
Color	Orange
Special Feature	Compact
Item Weight	11 Pounds
Load Capacity	3000 pound
Maximum Height	50 Feet
Manufacturer	Recovery Marine
Item Weight	11 pounds
ASIN	B08PHH963K
Customer Reviews	3.7 out of 5 stars
Best Sellers Rank	#385,424 in Sports & Outdoors ( ) #244 in
Date First Available	December 2, 2020

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Product description.

Sooner or later, you have to go up the mast. Recovery Marine's Mast Ladder is an easy-climbing 50-foot alternating-step, flexible ladder made of two-inch (2-inch) wide nylon webbing with a sewn tensile strength of 3,000 pounds. And yet, it still easily packs into a compact bag. LENGTH: 50 feet ALTERNATING STEP LENGTH: 12 inches STRENGTH: Sewn tensile strength of 3,000 pounds STEPS: Double-reinforced with steps formed by two continuous parallel straps of webbing, one sewn to form the step, the other straight, and vice versa, over the length of the ladder. EASY-TO-USE: Climbing is easy CONVENIENT: Comes with its own bag, folds up into a packet, roughly the size of a three-inch-thick legal-sized paper pad BRIGHTLY COLORED: For easy viewing and use You will need to purchase the slides separately. Always use a safety harness in conjunction with ladder

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How to build a mast ladder by yourself to climb solo to the top of the mast

Greetings sailors,

Today we are going to see how to make a mast ladder to be able to comfortably climb the mast of our boats for about 50 euros and saving us more than 800.

This will even allow you to climb comfortably and quickly alone.

Climbing the mast of our sailboats is a necessity that we can have with certain frequency and that is not without difficulty.

Either to check the rigging, do maintenance of the wind equipment, antennas, and other instruments that rest on the top of it, or simply to install a new gadget that arises from the ideas that we propose in this blog, having the possibility to climb the mast comfortably is something very positive.

There are multiple methods to get on it, especially with the help of another person.

The most common: that they hoist you with the main halyard as if they were hoisting the sail, but it is still hard work for you, and for the person, you have committed to help you.

When it comes to climbing without help, the options are more limited and almost all of them involve using climbing techniques to climb with blockers through one of the halyards, even more arduous work if possible.

But obviously there are some very comfortable techniques that are usually the most used by sailors who live in their own sailboats, such as, for example, putting steps to the mast.

Either they are fixed, made with aluminum sheet and riveted along the mast, or folding riveted all over the mast (many holes have to be made) and at a very significant cost (+ 25 euros per step). Even both methods have their aesthetic problems, weakening the pole with so many holes and multiplying the possibility of damaging a halyard that has a tendency to get stuck in them.

What we are going to do is something intermediate between these options, we are going to build a ladder that we will raise as if it were the mainsail, we will tighten it so that it remains well attached to the mast and that will allow us to climb comfortably both with assistance and in solitary. But always securing us by an additional means. This is very important: w hen climbing the mast we must never rely solely on a single method or anchor point.

So let’s get to it ..

For this project we will need to acquire a series of material that will require an investment of about 50 euros for a ladder of just over 12 meters long, taking into account that a ladder of the same length already made costs over 400 euros, it will be a very economical project …

A roll of good quality sewing thread that is suitable for use in a sewing machine, in my case I have bought this and I use it a lot in all kinds of repairs on the boat:

You have it available on amazon https://amzn.to/3tHI2FN

A roll of polypropylene strap 25mm wide and 50 meters long, like the one used in backpack straps, which will be the basis of our scale. I bought this for 15 euros here on amazon :

https://amzn.to/2LqCqy8

And finally to make the steps we are going to use a 20mm thick round aluminum tube. 20mm is the ideal thickness, below this thickness it can be bend with your weight (I say this from experience with the 15mm one), so I would recommend at least 20mm.

In our case, we bought 8 meters to make 24 33cm steps for our 12m scale in a DIY store, and we spent about 27 euros. The tube should not be difficult to find at any DIY store, you went to buy it at bricomart.

https://www.obramat.es/tubo-redondo-aluminio-anodizado-20-x-1-mm-1-m-10256785.html

Apart from the material itself that you will need to make the ladder, you must have some skills and tools, mainly: metal saw, drill, drill bits, some sewing needles, a sewing machine and the ability to use it.

Do not be scared with the sewing machine if you do not already have it. Having a sewing machine, if you have a boat, will save you a lot of money and for this mission the knowledge you will need is very little, because you only have to make very long straight seams.

I bought a very cheap sewing machine on Amazon ( https://amzn.to/3cNUBJj ) for less than 50 euros and I am learning with it. I have done this project and some other repairs on the boat .. They also say that the LIDL sewing machine works very well, ..

Well, let’s get to work, the time has come to start.

The first thing we will do is fold the strap in half and sew the two halves together with two seams along the entire tape. This is where you will quickly acquire skill with the sewing machine. You can see the process in detail in the video of this post.

The objective of these two seams is to make the strap twice as thick and at the same time have the opportunity to insert the steps between the two already sewn straps.

In order to determine in which position each of the steps will go, we will fold the strap in half again and there we will mark the position of the first step, 60 centimeters from the fold, and the rest of the steps, which will be 40 cm , these being the marks that we have to make by measuring on the folded strap (so we will mark both halves at the same time).

Once we have the strap ready, we are going to prepare the steps. From the aluminum tube that we have bought, we will cut smaller pieces, 33 cm, so from each meter of tube, we can take 3 steps.

Once the steps are cut, we are going to make a hole for each one on each side, which will help us to better sew them to the straps and prevent them from moving transversely.

And once we have everything prepared, it’s time to sew the steps. The operation is going to be very simple. In the position that we have marked on the tapes for each step, we will open the seam that we made by machine at that point a little, enough to be able to insert the corresponding end of the step between the tapes, and then, by hand, we will sew over and below the step (at least three passes below and two above), using the hole to pass from one side to the other, with which we will be able to fix the steps in their position.

We will repeat the operation for each end of the step and in the same way for each step, checking that the alignment is correct (if you marked the tapes correctly, the alignment will be adequate).

So, with patience, and while we watch something on television (I had time to watch two movies on Netflix while sewing the steps), we will have our scale finished.

The detail of sewing the fold of the upper end of the scale is very important, so that it does not slip if we step on one end or another of the steps.

So after a lot of effort you will have something like this:

And finally it’s time to go up

It is very important not to rely solely on the ladder .. it is very dangerous .. whenever you climb the mast you have to be secured to at least two different systems ..

So take a climbing harness or similar and with a blocker or with a Prusik knot, secure yourself to the other halyard while you go up, or if you have help … tie yourself to the halyard and have a friend assure you from the corresponding winch ( in the video you have more details on how to do it ).

As for self-belay … a blocker is an instrument that only runs in one direction on the rope, the low-cost version of it is a Prusik knot … It can be easily moved by hand, but if you hang onto it, it blocks in front of the rope preventing you from falling.

For the climb you can also put a strap around the mast secured to your harness to ensure that you do not separate too much from it or the ladder.

The descent is a bit more complicated by self-belaying, but you can use a climbing eight or another type of brake and rappelling techniques to be sure or the same Prusik knot, lowering it with your hand as you go down.

But seriously … do not skimp on making sure you are safe … always secure you at least two points and if you can three, then better.

Conclusions

The scale is magnificent to climb: with your hands around the mast and the blocker can climb just alone without any problem … the worst thing is the possibility that it will separate from the mast if you hang on it so it is very important to tension well the lower end of the same so that it always works in tension and remains close to the mast … or better yet, secure it to the mast while climbing or through the mainsail skates, putting a skate every four steps, or some ropes through the steps below the crosspieces, something like this:

In that case, we will hoist it like the mainsail and it will stay well attached to the mast all the time, although to hoist it you have to remove the mainsail from the rail, which makes it a bit messier.

As for its construction … Well, once I have finished it, I see it as having been worth it … but at least 5 hours of work await you ahead, so if you are not very skilled and you can afford it, you can also consider buying one already made ..

Of course, prepare to pay around 900 euros, for something you can do yourself for 50.

Kinlevenmarine makes a fabulous one, as well as very expensive .. https://kinlevenmarine.com/shop/yacht-mast-ladder/ but there is no denying that she looks fabulous.

I am very happy with the work I have done and I am sure that I will put it to good use … and surely you too if you follow my channel and start putting more inventions on the masthead of your boat …

Practical Boat Owner
Digital edition

7 mast climbing kits on test

January 30, 2017

Going aloft to the masthead can be tricky at the best of times on a calm day in a marina – and even more so at sea. In our November 2009 issue, Ben Meakins tested seven sets of mast climbing gear to see which worked best.

I t must have been a wise man who once said that: ‘A fear of heights is illogical. A fear of falling, on the other hand, is prudent and evolutionary.’

Perhaps sailors should take note. Climbing the mast is seldom a popular task, but it’s a lucky sailor that never has to go up to fix an aerial, replace a bulb or even perform a visual inspection.

With the right equipment, however, it’s possible to go up and down a mast safely, and without too much exertion.

We looked at seven different sets of mast climbing equipment designed to help you get aloft, testing them on a blustery summer’s day on a Sigma 38 on the River Hamble. The wind increased to 30 knots during the day, making life aloft uncomfortable and somewhat dangerous, so we donned helmets to give us some protection while swinging around. It’s worth having one to hand if you ever think you might need to go up the mast while at sea.

Traditional methods

The conventional method of climbing the mast is to sit in a harness or bosun’s chair while the deck crew grind you to the top using a halyard and a winch. Harnesses are often favoured by racers: take a glance at the bow of any large racing yacht and chances are you’ll see the bowman sporting a climbing harness. They’re less comfortable than a bosun’s chair to spend time in aloft, but are more secure: unlike a chair you can’t fall out of a well-fitting harness. You can pick one up for as little as £30 from a climbing shop.

Cruisers tend to carefully choose their times to go aloft, so are content to use a bosun’s chair – after all, greater comfort means you can spend more time aloft getting the job done before your legs go numb. You can pick one up from any chandlery for anywhere between £30 and £130. Look for one with a solid seat and good pockets and, if you can, try them on in the shop – anything that feels remotely uncomfortable on the ground will be multiplied a hundredfold when aloft, so this is not an area for compromise.

The bosun’s chair used in this feature, a SwissTech from BlueWater supplies, had all the bells and whistles you’d expect from a top-end chair, and felt secure and comfortable for working aloft for extended periods.

What we tested

Conventional methods of hoisting a crewman to the masthead have worked well for centuries, but there are now several more modern methods designed to reduce the effort needed by the deck crew – some even to the point of permitting mast climbing single-handed. All are teamed with a harness or bosun’s chair to support the weight of the climber.

LADDERS: We’ve all seen blue-water cruisers with their fixed or folding mast-steps riveted to the mast, but mast steps aren’t for everyone: they’re a snag hazard, they add weight and windage and involve drilling lots of holes in the mast. A temporary ladder is the answer to overcome these issues, and with modern materials these can be lightweight and small enough to be stowed on the most space-impoverished yacht.

Never climb mast steps or a temporary ladder unassisted. It’s safest to use a harness, with a crew member taking up the slack in a halyard as a fail-safe should you slip from the ladder.

MASTHEAD WINCH: Like a chain hoist found in warehouses and motor service stations, the MastLift comprises a 10:1 reduction gearbox operated by an endless line. You simply hoist it up the mast on a halyard (two are recommended for security), attach yourself to its integral Dyneema halyard and pull on the endless line – one way to ascend, and the other to descend.

ASCENDERS: Climbers have been using ascenders for many years. Traditionally, a prusik hitch would be tied onto a static line to provide a foot or hand-hold, taking advantage of this knot’s ability to slide easily along a rope or bar when not under load but lock solid as soon as the climber’s weight is applied to it.

We tried out two variations on the theme, using a 10mm genoa sheet as our static line, hoisted to the masthead on the main halyard and stretched tight.

MASTHEAD HARNESS Finally, we tried out a ‘mast-top’ harness. This attaches to a bosun’s chair and allows you to stand up and see above the halyard exit.

* Prices correct at the time of going to press, November 2009

FibreLight Ladder

PRICE*: 5m £101, 10m £169, 15m £240, 20m £311

Contact: www.bluewatersupplies.com

T he FibreLight ladder, as used by the SAS, is constructed from webbing with carbon fibre rungs, and packed down into a bag only 26 x 15 x 15cm in size. We found it easy to climb, as long as it was hauled tight with two downhauls – if these were too loose, it swung around significantly.

It proved easiest to climb ‘side-on’ – alternating your feet from one side to the other – rather than climbing up one face. Descending was hard work, and in the significant gusts on the day, the ladder blew around a lot, despite the best efforts of our downhauls. One advantage of this type of simple, light ladder is that you could use it with the mainsail hoisted, but it would be tricky to climb in any kind of sea.

SwissTech Mast Ladder

PRICE*: 10m £431; 2m extension piece £109

T his ladder has aluminium rungs, joined at the edges by webbing straps. Each rung slides into the mainsail track in the mast, and is held steady by two adjustable guide-rollers. It took us some time to set the ladder up for our mast, but you should only need to do this once, and from then on it takes only minutes to hoist.

As with the flexible ladder, the Mast Ladder needed two tight downhauls to keep it rigid and in line. It was easy to climb, although it moved around a little with each step. The curved aft face of our Sigma’s mast may have contributed to this. Descending was hard work, but the steps were easy to find – and the whole team found them to be well spaced.

Mast Mount/Mast Mate

PRICES*: 27ft $240 (£146), 35ft $300 (£183), 42ft $357 (£218)

Contact: www.mastmate.com

T his type of webbing ladder has been available in a number of guises for many years. We tried a Mast Mount, which is no longer produced, but an almost identical product, the Mast Mate, is still available from the USA.

Consisting of a series of webbing loops, held on to the mast by mainsail-type sliders, the Mast Mount was easy to ascend and descend. An extra layer of stiff webbing was sewn into the base of each loop, keeping each step open – and the team liked the ‘alternating’ steps, which made climbing easy. With the halyard pulled taut against a tight downhaul, it felt the most secure and safe of all the ladders tested.

MASTHEAD WINCH

PRICES*: 13m halyard £1,014; 25m halyard £1,188

Contact: www.bluewatersupplies.com

H oisting the MastLift was somewhat nerve-racking, and in any sea it would sway around a lot. We used the optional neoprene cover to prevent damage to either the mast or the unit itself, and SwissTech also provide a loop of ‘parrel balls’ which loop around a furled jib to help with guiding the unit up. We found that keeping tension on the Dyneema halyard as a downhaul prevented any major movement.

Going up was a simple matter, if tough on the arms, but you can stop at any time for a rest. It felt secure at all times, with a reassuring ‘clicking’ from the ratchet on the way up. Going down was even easier, although the gear change from ‘up’ to ‘down’ took a little getting used to. We used it on a breezy day, and soon realised that it was important not to let go of the endless line, which trailed off to leeward, leaving me stranded until a handy lull dropped the line back into my lap. You could also use the MastLift attached to the end of the boom as a hoist for outboard engines and MOBs – a shorter, 4m endless line is available for this purpose. Overall it was easy to use, and felt secure and safe. It’s not cheap, and would be hard to deploy at sea, but is good for solo ascents.

Petzl ascender

PRICE*: Around £30 from climbing shops

Contact: www.petzl.com

T he Petzl ascender is a cheap and simple piece of climbing equipment that works like a rope clutch in that it can slide upwards, but jams when pulled down. For the test we used a single ascender with a foot loop made from a heavy-duty sail tie and a harness on a long strop.

You sit in the harness, with your weight taken on a halyard, and slide the ascender up the static line. Next, stand up in the foot loop while a crewman takes up the slack in the halyard, and repeat the process. With a second ascender you could climb the line unassisted, as you can with the TopClimber (see right). We found we needed a long strop between the ascender and the harness to allow enough movement, and that having two foot loops, which were attached loosely to the static line, made straightening your legs easier. An ascender has the advantage that it will act as a brake if you let go – but you must take care if taking your weight off the ascender that it won’t capsize.

PRICE*: £224.95

Contact: www.yachtstyle.co.uk

The TopClimber is a ready-made version of a double-ascender system. You sit in its bosun’s chair, and straighten your legs. This releases the strain on the top rope clutch, which can be slid upwards. You sit down and do the same for the lower clutch, before repeating the process and ascending the line. It took some practice before the process felt natural, but once mastered it was a quick, secure method of climbing the rig. The instructions provided were on the brief side, however, and we found it was well worth spending 5 or 10 minutes getting familiar with the equipment before trying it out for real. Coming down the process is reversed, and we found that the important thing was to take small steps. The chair felt comfortable and one tester even commented: ‘It was so good I didn’t know I had it on!’ The TopClimber also has the advantage that you can stand in the foot loops once at the masthead to gain access to navigation lights and aerials which live above the halyard exit.

MASTHEAD HARNESS

Masthead harness .

PRICE*: £108

Contact: www.bluewatersupplies.com

Used in conjunction with our bosun’s chair as a step to allow you to reach the masthead, we found this device got in the way somewhat on the way up and we had to take care to ensure the chair itself did not slip down when we stood up. As long as you take these into account, it’s a good solution to the problem of getting access to fittings above the halyard exit.

PBO verdict

There’s nothing fundamentally wrong with the classic bosun’s chair – it does the job and does it well. The problem is that it can be hard work for a crew to wind someone to the masthead, and this is where the newer methods come into their own.

The ascender technique is a great way of climbing the mast without relying on crew to put in the effort, and was our team’s preferred method. Each of the two ascender techniques we tried took a little practice, but once mastered they were quick and easy. One of our test team, who had previously done some rock climbing, mastered it quickly – demonstrating the value of proper training with any equipment. The TopClimber might be a more expensive option, but it felt safer, more secure and comfortable than our cobbled-together Petzl system.

Ladders are certainly a viable way of climbing the rig, but they are tiring and it’s important you wear a harness and halyard as any movement of the boat makes it hard to hang on. Of the three we tested, the Mast Mount felt the most secure and was the easiest to climb, with the least movement. The FibreLight Ladder is compact but was tiring to climb, while the SwissTech Mast Ladder felt secure and safe, but could conceivably damage the mast if not properly adjusted beforehand.

The MastLift winch was a seriously impressive piece of kit – but had a price tag to match.

Safety first

Mind your head! Don’t stand near the base of the mast while there’s a crewman aloft – a tool or any other object dropped from a height could cause serious injury.
Tie your own bowline. It’s tradition that whoever is heading aloft ties their own knot: that way there’s no one else to blame if it’s not done properly. Never use a snapshackle to take the load – instead, tie a bowline and use the shackle to secure the tail.
Use a safety line. It’s worth having a second halyard attached, with a crewman taking up the slack, as a backup.

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About the Kinleven Mast Ladder

How It Works

The Kinleven Yacht Mast Ladder is a simple and stable solution which will allow you to climb your mast solo and with minimal preparation.

Hoisted on a Halyard
Stabilised by the climber's weight on its 3 line webbing construction
Secured by sail slides in the Luff Groove, or other Sail Management System
Carefully designed for grip, comfort, practicality, strength, durability and ease of climbing.

Made to Measure

Our Mast Ladders are made to measure so that, while the top rung is just a metre below the masthead sheave, the bottom rung is neither too high nor too low, in other words, within easy reach of the boom (not too high), and not in the way if you want to pre-tension your ladder by tying off at the foot of your mast (not too low).

We do this by taking the precise ladder length and calculating the distance required between each rung to the nearest millimetre. We balance spacing with the number of rungs to keep within a “comfortable climbing” range. For “Racing” versions, we can fit fewer rungs spaced further apart to save on weight.

5 Year Guarantee

Though not as familiar or available as the old Bosun’s Chair, variations on this type of mast climbing kit have been around in one form or other for many years. Since we started, we’ve been making continual improvements to our own version - to make the best version we could - one we feel happy to give a 5 year guarantee on. More than once, we’ve given the whole thing a thorough re-think; to improve the practicality of the end-product and make producing it sustainable and efficient.

We’ve developed assembly jigs to incorporate and refine our unique fid-technique for riveting through the webbing. This means that damage to the webbing is eliminated and the full strength of the webbing is retained.
We’ve designed the rungs to enhance the assembly’s strength as a unit, the ladder’s compactness when rolled up and the users’ comfort and safety when climbing. As you can see in some of our images, some people find them comfortable enough to go up in bare feet.
Our design incorporates a neat system for getting the ladder past swept spreaders, easy to operate and avoid tangles. We call it the “Venetian Stand-Off System”, for reasons that are usually soon apparent.
We send our ladders out in two bags: a dry-bag and a drying-bag. The drying-bag makes it easier to dry the ladder off, if it should get wet or need rinsing with fresh water. The dry-bag protects the ladder in between uses and is more convenient for carrying and stowage.

Highest Quality Materials

We cannot stress enough how important it is to us that our product be both safe and lasting. This is why we have been painstakingly thorough in our choice of materials and suppliers. Quality lasts, and keeps you safe.

Triangular Ring

Red, blue & green webbing, venetian stand-off system, canvas top piece.

Downloadable Resources
Printable Measuring Guide
Sail Slide Identification
Mast Ladder Instructions
Stand Off Instructions

Contact Form

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Yachting Monthly
Digital edition

7 mast climbing methods and gear on test

January 30, 2017

I t must have been a wise man who once said that: ‘A fear of heights is illogical. A fear of falling, on the other hand, is prudent and evolutionary.’

Perhaps sailors should take note. Climbing the mast is seldom a popular task , but it’s a lucky sailor that never has to go up to fix an aerial, replace a bulb or even perform a visual inspection.

With the right equipment, however, it’s possible to go up and down a mast safely, and without too much exertion.

Traditional methods

The conventional mast climbing method is to sit in a harness or bosun’s chair while the deck crew grind you to the top using a halyard and a winch. Harnesses are often favoured by racers: take a glance at the bow of any large racing yacht and chances are you’ll see the bowman sporting a climbing harness. They’re less comfortable than a bosun’s chair to spend time in aloft, but are more secure: unlike a chair you can’t fall out of a well-fitting harness. You can pick one up for as little as £30 from a climbing shop.

Cruisers tend to carefully choose their times to go aloft, so are content to use a bosun’s chair as their go to mast climbing method – after all, greater comfort means you can spend more time aloft getting the job done before your legs go numb. You can pick one up from any chandlery for anywhere between £30 and £130. Look for one with a solid seat and good pockets and, if you can, try them on in the shop – anything that feels remotely uncomfortable on the ground will be multiplied a hundredfold when aloft, so this is not an area for compromise.

What we tested

Conventional methods of hoisting a crewman to the masthead have worked well for centuries, but there are now several more modern mast climbing methods designed to reduce the effort needed by the deck crew – some even to the point of permitting mast climbing single-handed. All are teamed with a harness or bosun’s chair to support the weight of the climber.

Never climb mast steps or a temporary ladder unassisted. It’s safest to use a harness, with a crew member taking up the slack in a halyard as a fail-safe should you slip from the ladder.

We tried out two variations on the theme, using a 10mm genoa sheet as our static line, hoisted to the masthead on the main halyard and stretched tight.

MASTHEAD HARNESS Finally, we tried out a ‘mast-top’ harness. This attaches to a bosun’s chair and allows you to stand up and see above the halyard exit.

For other types of climbing gear and safety kit, have a look at our buyers guide and expert practical instructions on how to climb a mast solo or short handed.

* Prices correct at the time of going to press, November 2009

FibreLight Ladder

PRICE*: 5m £101, 10m £169, 15m £240, 20m £311

Contact: www.bluewatersupplies.com

7 mast climbing kits on test fibrelight ladder

SwissTech Mast Ladder

PRICE*: 10m £431; 2m extension piece £109

Mast Mount/Mast Mate

PRICES*: 27ft $240 (£146), 35ft $300 (£183), 42ft $357 (£218)

Contact: www.mastmate.com

PRICES*: 13m halyard £1,014; 25m halyard £1,188

Contact: www.bluewatersupplies.com

Petzl ascender

PRICE*: Around £30 from climbing shops

Contact: www.petzl.com

PRICE*: £224.95

Contact: www.yachtstyle.co.uk

Masthead harness

PRICE*: £108

Contact: www.bluewatersupplies.com

There’s nothing fundamentally wrong with the classic bosun’s chair as a mast climbing method – it does the job and does it well. The problem is that it can be hard work for a crew to wind someone to the masthead, and this is where the newer methods come into their own.

The ascender technique is a great way of climbing the mast without relying on crew to put in the effort, and was our team’s preferred mast climbing method. Each of the two ascender techniques we tried took a little practice, but once mastered they were quick and easy. One of our test team, who had previously done some rock climbing, mastered it quickly – demonstrating the value of proper training with any equipment. The TopClimber might be a more expensive option, but it felt safer, more secure and comfortable than our cobbled-together Petzl system, unless you select matching gear from our practical buyers guide to climbing the mast solo or shorthanded , which demonstrates how easy it can be.

The MastLift winch was a seriously impressive piece of kit – but had a price tag to match.

Safety first

Mind your head! Don’t stand near the base of the mast while there’s a crewman aloft – a tool or any other object dropped from a height could cause serious injury.
Tie your own bowline. It’s tradition that whoever is heading aloft ties their own knot: that way there’s no one else to blame if it’s not done properly. Never use a snapshackle to take the load – instead, tie a bowline and use the shackle to secure the tail.
Use a safety line. It’s worth having a second halyard attached, with a crewman taking up the slack, as a backup.

If you enjoyed reading this then you may be interested in our other articles on mast climbing and mast climbing equipment.

A buyers guide to mast climbing gear and practical expert method for single handed mast climbing

Mast climbing for short handed crew

12 Bosuns chairs tested

How to climb a mast safely at sea with Pip Hare

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Mast Ladder MastS

135,52 USD – 363,52 USD

We offer MastS , a professional mast ladder with a reduced distance between steps for easier climbing. For periodic mast and rigging inspection and repair or replacement of installed equipment.

Description
Additional information
Reviews (18)

We offer the MastS, a professional mast ladder with a reduced distance between steps for easier climbing. It is made of high-quality textile materials. Two very durable polypropylene tapes from the EU manufacturer (with a strength of up to 1500 kg each) and strong, specialized for technical sewing threads were used as the supporting structure.

The product underwent rigorous testing for demanding marine conditions according to eu standards., now our ladders come with a 5-year warranty.

A triangular hanger made of AISI 316 steel with a strength of up to 2800kg is used to pull up the ladder over the mast.

The recommended working load is 200 kg due to the manufacturer’s high safety factor.

Attachment the ladder along the mast by slides safely stabilizes the user during climbing and working at height.

Always remember! When using the ladder, it is absolutely required to use professional means intended for this purpose and meeting all the requirements of belay measures designed to ensure protection against falling from a height.

Product Parameters:

product made in EU
ladder length (H)
material – webbing: polypropylene, threads: polyester
hanger – triangular ring made of AISI 316 steel
webbing colour: black, sewing: yellow
webbing width: 50 mm
step width: 17 cm
distance between steps only 33 cm ( comfortable for users of medium and short height )

*auxiliary drawing, the number of steps is an example

Quantity of sail slides depending on the length of the ladder Mast S

length H [m]	8.1	10.1	12.1	14.0	16.0	18.0	20.0
length H [ft]	26.6	33.1	39.7	45.9	52.5	59.1	65.6
qty of slides:	23	29	35	41	47	53	59

Each ladder comes standard with a set of nylon sail shackles for attaching the slides.

The ladder is optionally equipped with A89 type nylon slides with dimensions:

length: 32mm
height: 21mm
width: 15mm

If you choose the Slide Type: None option, the product will be delivered only with a set of plastic shackles.

If the A89 type sail slides do not fit your mast, you can purchase additional slides and slugs in our store.

Buyers from UK: check article about purchase regulations after Brexit.

More information about Mast Ladders you can find on product page .

Other ladder sizes are also available on individual order. If you are interested, please don’t hesitate to contact us .

Weight	N/A
Dimensions	N/A
Length	10.1 m, 12.1 m, 14.0 m, 16.0 m, 18.0 m, 20.0 m, 8.1 m
Slides	A89 type, None
Brand	4Yachts
Handling time	1 working day

18 reviews for Mast Ladder MastS

Al – 9 April 2021

Great service in the ordering and delivery process. The ladder quality and workmanship looks excellent.

Peter Robertson – 21 April 2021

I just want to say how pleased I am with the Mast-S ladder (12.1m). I have already used it twice. Once on my own boat to fit the masthead instruments and also on a friend’s boat. The shorter step height was ideal and the ladder felt very secure. Using a bosun’s chair as back-up, I was able to stand shoulder-height to the masthead with both hands free to work – excellent! Pre-order communication and advice from 4yachts was most helpful. Delivery was very fast indeed. Thanks.

Neil Fuller – 15 October 2021

Easy to order and arrived quickly. It seems like a well made product but yet to use in anger. I fitted my own A009 slides which fit my mast. If you are in the UK beware you will get hit with import duties and duty handling fee which was £45 for me on top of the price and had to be paid to Fedex before they would deliver.

Gary – 28 November 2021

Excellent product, professionally made. Also purchased the luff slides, products promptly shipped without any problems.

Bjorn – 28 April 2022

Easy and informative web shop order placement with fast delivery plus a very professional assistance given by phone!

Rick Contestabile – 31 May 2022

Very pleased with workmanship, design, and promptness of my receipt. Thank you.

Tony, S.V. Moonraker. – 15 August 2022

I got this in in three days from Poland!! Everything was super high quality and works like a charm. I was quoted 480 to have my rigger climb the mast one time. I think I am well ahead of the game with this ladder. I have a safety harness with a shock arrestor as back up to the spinnaker topper, via an ascender. Definitely use a back up harness! But otherwise a safe and easy way to get up there.

Rob Verschoor – 20 March 2023

Quick reply on questions by Mail, smooth order proces and quick delivery, The ladder quality looks excellent.

Andy C – 21 March 2023

This must surely be the best thing since sliced bread, and even more so when the fantastic price is taken into consideration! I feel so much safer now climbing the mast, especially when I am being lowered. The (MastS) steps are very well spaced. The sliders also fit perfectly on my boom furling mast track. I placed my order on Friday, and received the item on Monday in Singapore. Magic!

Pat Toplis – 10 August 2023

Absolutely fantastic piece of kit to have on your yacht. Very user friendly.

Tim. SY – ‘Kernow’ and ‘Seal’ – 10 October 2023

Excellent product (my first time since Bosun’s chair. Looking to use it with the Climber’s/safety Belay. Every detail of my questions answered THOROUGHLY even my ‘slug’ order error corrected IMMEDIATELY nothing delayed (exceptional service; VERY reassuring).

Ellen – 3 February 2024

Very good solid product. Didn’t use it yet but it looks save . Delivery quick and very good packages.

Stephen ——– Joolz – 7 April 2024

Initial review of, as yet unsed, ladders is that this is a quality product, excellent delivery with tracking and very good value for money. They will be used in conjunction with a harness and safety lanyard connected to a belay onto a separate halyard for complete peace of mind. Looking forward to first use.

Vittorio Mattioli – 21 April 2024

Very good and timely service in the ordering and delivery process. While I haven’t used the Mast-S scale yet, the quality and workmanship seem excellent and I hope it is comfortable and safe to use.

Hans – 21 April 2024

Ordered a Mastladder MastS, together with the Belay kit… Very happy with the delivery and quality of the products.

Rutger – 29 May 2024

Mooie ladder makkelijk in gebruik. Zou standaard uitrusting moeten zijn voor zeilbootbezitters

Wesley Laenen – 16 June 2024

Zeer goed en betrouwbare ladder , ziet er stevig uit en dat is het ook. Qua prijs kwaliteit ook zeer tevreden levering was ook zeer snel. Bestel de riem ook nog binnenkort.

Marc Annebicque – 3 July 2024

Je suis satisfait, nous avons reçu l’échelle de mat (10.1 m) très rapidement, l’avons équipée avec des coulisseaux adaptés à notre bateau, et l’avons utilisée pour la première fois cette après midi.

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Basic Belay Kit

Mast climbing Tool Bag

Additional sail shackles A749 type

Additional slides and slugs

Mast Ladder MastL

Mast Ladder MastXS

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Recovery Marine

Sailboat Mast Ladder

Climbing mast 50 feet (15.24 Meters)

Now easier to climb Mast Ladder 50 feet of an alternating-step flexible ladder made of 2 inch-wide polyester webbing.

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How To: Sailboat Mast Climbing Guide

Last Updated by

June 15, 2022

Climbing your sailboat mast can be an easy and enjoyable activity. With the right equipment and information you will successfully be able to access all exterior parts of your mast. In this guide, I will teach you how to climb your mast with confidence. As with so many activities on a boat, safety must be your top priority when climbing your mast.

Regardless of your crew situation, the equipment necessary to safely climb your mast is basically the same: two halyards, a bosun's chair, and some form of harness. You can be hoisted by crew or ascend using an ascension device. The particular equipment you choose is up to your preference and budget.

Sailors die every year from improper climbing techniques. By doing your due diligence, you will be ready to safely climb your mast. Ascending your mast is not the time for cursory preparation, so you must double up on all safety equipment. Redundancy is key. Don't put yourself in a position where a single failure of equipment could mean your death.

I have been up my sailboat mast half a dozen times and have never felt unsafe or afraid while aloft. By always following thorough safety precautions and having solid communication with my crew, I actually enjoy going up the mast. It gives me perspective of my vessel and the surrounding area that is normally out of view. I hope this guide helps you enjoy your first time climbing your sailboat mast, as well.

I am not an expert on climbing sailboat masts. I do not know the condition or quality of your equipment. It is your responsibility to ensure your safety and the safety of your crew. This is solely a guide to help you feel better informed on this topic.

Table of contents

The Crewed Climber

The most basic way to climb a mast is to have a crew member crank you up using a winch. This method requires you to have a crew member on board with the brawn and willingness to do that job. If you are lucky enough to have a beefy, willing crew member then this section is for you.

Primary Safety Equipment (w/Crew)

Bosun's Chair
Main Halyard

Your primary safety equipment will consist of a bosun's chair (or equivalent) connected to a halyard. Ideally the halyard will be one that does not have a free-standing block at the top of the mast. Your main halyard will likely be your best option for your primary line.

Feed your primary line through your bosun's chairs double d-rings and secure using a bowline knot. Tying your halyard to your bosun's chair will eliminate possible failure at the halyard shackle.

Once you have tied your primary line to your bosun's chair using a bowline knot, clip the halyard shackle to the d-rings as a redundant safety measure.

Prior to using your bosun's chair, be sure to read the instruction manual for your particular model so that you are properly secured within the chair.

Secondary Safety Equipment (w/Crew)

Secondary line

On my sailboat, my husband and I have climbing harnesses that we use as backup to our bosun's chair. A foul weather harness will work for this application as well.

Put on the harness prior to getting into the bosun's chair. Just as with the primary line, use a bowline knot to secure the second halyard to your harness. On my sailboat, I use the spinnaker halyard as my secondary line. You may have a line better suited for the job such as a removable topping lift.

Which Winch?

Now that you have your primary and secondary gear set up, it's time to deal with the working end of your primary and secondary lines.

Due to the variation in block, winch, and cleat locations from boat to boat, it is difficult to give exact directions for how to set up your lines. On board my vessel we use the main halyard as our primary line. The main halyard runs out of our lower mast, through several blocks and back to our cockpit. We run the primary line back to our starboard jib sheet winch because it is self-tailing and has two speeds. Our secondary line runs back to the port jib sheet winch.

In this method it is necessary for both winches to be self-tailing.

Whichever line you choose to use as your primary line, you will need to find as unobstructed a path as possible for that line to join with your winch. Use blocks as needed to create a chafe-free path for your primary.

Every time I have climbed our mast, my husband has been below at the winch. Even though we use a winch that is self tailing, whenever possible we have a friend tailing the primary line. This additional safety precaution prevents line slippage and a possible accident.

The Hoisting Begins

You now have your harness on with your secondary line attached and you are in the bosun's chair with the primary line attached. It's time to test the system's strength. First, have your winch handler take out any slack in the primary line while you stand with knees bent at the mast base. Have your mate cleat off the primary line. Then, test the strength of it all by bouncing a few times in the bosun's chair.

It might seem silly bouncing around in the bosun's chair just above the deck, but it sure makes me feel better knowing that I have already put more stress on the system than I will at any other point during my climb.

Feeling confident that all systems are go, your crew member will begin cranking on the winch from the cockpit. Being raised up the mast can take a while. Be sure to wear shoes and gloves so that if you decide to assist in your ascension, you don't end up with paint slivers in your hands and feet.

Your crew member will crank you up a few feet at a time or perhaps a few inches at a time, depending on their vigor. Every time they pause on the primary winch, they will pull in slack on the secondary. They must secure the primary line prior to attending to the secondary. This will ensure that if your primary fails you will only drop a short distance onto your secondary line.

Once you have reached your working point on your mast, your crew member below will cleat off both lines. Your winch handler will surely feel like it's nap time but their job isn't over yet. While you're working, be sure your crew member stays attentive in case you realize you don't have the necessary tools for the job or you are ready to descend.

I have been at the top of my mast only to realize that I need a flat head instead of a Phillips, or electrical tape, or a multimeter. It's beyond frustrating to be at the top of the mast and realize that you forgot something or don't have what you need.

To save the arms of your cranking crewmember, bring a long piece of string in the pocket of your bosons chair. If you realize you need an additional tool, you can lower the string to your crew member and they will tie on the forgotten item for you to pull up. If you happen to be particularly forgetful, it would be clever to employ a canvas bag to receive the tools.

I have found that it's difficult to see the top of my mast while sitting in the bosun's chair even when it's fully raised. I remedy this by bringing a looped piece of webbing (a sling) which I connect with a carabiner to the top of my mast. I then step into the piece of webbing which raises me high enough to see the top of the mast .

The Fun Part

One of the most enjoyable parts of climbing the mast is coming back down. The work is done and now you get to enjoy a smooth, steady descent to deck level.

It's essential that your crew member below wear gloves for this part of the job. I recommend gloves for the entire job but certainly for this bit.

From the cockpit, your crew member will uncleat the secondary line and remove that line from it's winch. Your crew member will then take the line out of the self-tailing mechanism on the primary winch while maintaining a firm grip on the line. They will slowly let out the primary line while keeping three wraps on the winch. Continue slowly releasing line until all crew are deck side.

To aid in exiting the bosun's chair I recommend descending until you are sitting on deck. The extra slack will help you remove yourself from the bosun's chair as gracefully as possible.

The Crewless Climber

Knowing how to climb your mast independently is invaluable, even if you never sail solo. Lifting an adult using a winch can be difficult, time consuming, and tiring. By having the right equipment you can climb your mast with very little to no assistance.

Primary Safety Equipment (Solo)

There are many types of products on the market to help you climb the mast. There are ladders which utilize your mainsail mast track, webbing loops raised to the mast top using the main halyard, and permanently installed mast steps. Alternatively, there are devices which attach directly to the main halyard which allows you to climb the halyard. I'm going to refer to any device that is used to climb the halyard as an "ascension device".

Regardless of the ascension device you choose, these items are essential:

Ascension Device
3 Climbing Carabiners
2 Foot Slings

Secondary Safety Equipment (Solo)

Secondary Line
1 Climbing Carabiner

Sailboats are not all rigged the same. You may find that your spinnaker halyard is your only option for the secondary line. On some vessels, the topping lift will be the best option. You will need to determine which line works best for you.

Using The Ascension Device

The ladder style ascension devices are fairly self-explanatory. If you know how to climb a ladder, you're all set. So, I will not go into their use here. In this section, I will explain how to use a rock climbing ascension device to climb your mast.

This is an example of a rock climbing ascension device:

Clear the deck

It's very important to be sure that no crew stands directly below the person working up the mast. Anything that may fall becomes a lethal hazard to those below. It's also absolutely necessary to make sure that there is always a crew member watching the person on the mast. Just be sure to keep your distance from the base of the mast.

You Got This

I definitely recommend that no matter which method you use to climb your mast (crewed, solo, winched, or climbing), practice just above deck level prior to heading up. You want to feel comfortable and confident as you climb the mast. So, work out any kinks before they become disastrous.

There are countless videos portraying the use of ascension devices as well as mast climbing. Use whatever resources necessary to ensure that you have a productive, successful, and safe mast climb.

Beth lives on board her 1983 30ft S2 sailboat with her husband, 6 year-old son, and her two fur babies. She has been sailing and boating for most of her life. Beth has been blessed to experience cruising in the Great Lakes, the Bahamas, and in Alaska. She loves to travel and adores living on her tiny boat with her family.

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Going Up the Mast Alone

A certain appeal of sailing is its seeming limitlessness. One can spend a lifetime perfecting navigation skills. Remember Marvin Creamer, who circumnavigated by the ancient Polynesian method of memorizing the relationships of stars? He carried no instruments, not even a compass.

Even more mundane aspects of sailing confound us with myriad possibilities. Take going up the mast. There are lots of ways to make the short trip nobody enjoys.

For going up alone, one can choose from mast steps, web ladders, adaptations of mountain-climbing equipment or mechanical contrivances utilizing gears or tackle.

Whatever method you choose, thought must be given to the question of whether you want the capability of going up the mast while underway with the mainsail set. Reaching the top while tied securely to a dock or at anchor on a quiet morning is one thing. Going aloft with the mainsail in the way is another.

With the main set, steps can be used only when ascending along the front side of the mainmast. Web ladders can’t be used at all because their slides fit in the mainsail track.

In the recent July 1 issue, the nine currently available mast steps were reviewed. Included were fixed, folding and demountable steps. Also extolled was a device called a Saf Brak, a short cam cleat-equipped strop for use with a harness or boatswains chair.

To complete the examination of devices to travel up and down your mast, undertaken here is a look at two mast ladders made of webbing, another device called the Mastlift (a little like a chain fall) and, because of a readers suggestion, a rundown on a professional riggers way of doing it.

Mast Ladders The two ladders-Capt. Als and the Mast Mate-are made of very strong webbing. Each is hoisted to the masthead with a halyard. Sail slides to fit your mast track and shackled to the vertical length of webbing help keep the ladder close to the mast.

Mast Mate uses powerful 2″ nylon-Dacron blend webbing for both the single vertical strap and the steps. The steps have double layers of webbing. Gary Wheeler, who developed Mast Mate, said the special webbing has no memory, so it stows and deploys very nicely, with the steps standing open. The steps are 17″ apart. There are double steps 3′ from the top; they can be placed higher if desired.

Wheeler recommends that a downhaul be rigged and made taut to give the Mast Mate good vertical stability.

Capt. Als uses three vertical 1″ all-Dacron straps, which also support PVC tubing on the steps. Compared with Mast Mates all-web step, the PVC tubing on Capt. Als helps a bit when you insert a foot. The tubing also makes fine handholds.

Alan Byer, president of Capt. Als Products, Inc., said the ladder has recently been re-engineered. The web loop at the top end has been replaced with a high tensile stainless ring and the steps have been made 12″ apart rather than the prior 15″. The 12″ steps are an especially good idea for those with short legs or whose long ones are no longer quite as flexible.

Most importantly, instead of mast slides sewn to the webbing (by your sailmaker), Capt. Als now has brass grommets, reinforced with stitching, at 24″ intervals to which sail slides are to be attached with small, loose-pin shackles. (The grommet system has always been used by Mast Mate, which furnishes nylon shackles; you supply the sail slides.)

There is but a moderate load on the grommets and shackles; the principal load is on the halyard.

The real advantage of the grommet/shackle arrangement vs. sewn-in-place slides is that if you change boats, you can, if necessary, easily change the sail slides.

Capt. Als sells for $148 for a 36′ version, $198.89 for the 50′ model. The Mast Mate is $250 for a 35-footer, $350 for the 50′. Both come in custom lengths and with bags.

While convenient, the downside of these two ladders is that they can’t be used underway. The mainsail must be lowered first; in fact, unless you have a gate above the lowered main, you may have to remove it entirely.

The Mastlift A different approach to mast-climbing is the Mastlift imported by IMTA. It has parts made in Switzerland, is assembled in Spain and sold by a German company. Its a slick but very expensive drum-shaped gear box that is attached to a halyard (or better, two halyards) and hoisted to the masthead while a line on a reel is retained initially at deck level. Fasten your harness or chair to the line (5/16″ Spectra with a breaking strength of close to five tons) and use a separate line, a continuous long loop fitted to a ratchet wheel, to enjoy a 10-1 advantage for hoisting yourself. It takes about 10 minutes to rig. The Mastlift wont get you eye level with the top of your mast, but hardly anything does.

The Mastlift has a worm gear drive and two automatic brakes, so you need not keep tension on the continuous control line. Reversing the pull on the loop brings you down.

An important advantage of the Mastlift is that it also can be used on the end of a boom as a lifting device. Made of stainless, anodized aluminum and high impact plastic, the Mastlift for masts up to 45′ costs $995 and weighs 15 lbs. The large one for masts to 82′ costs $1,195 and weighs 17 lbs. You get every three years a free courtesy inspection of ratchets, brake pads, etc. Available as an extra is a thick neoprene cover ($40) to prevent damage from swinging around. Unfortunately, it covers just the sides and not the ends of the drum. To keep the Mastlift entirely away from the mast, a roller device (a stainless bridle with wood rollers) permits you to hoist the Mastlift on the jib stay with the sail furled; it sells for $60. Mastlifts boatswains chair ($166) is sturdy, but it wouldnt be our choice; wed use a soft chair like a Lirakis or Raudaschl. (Bosuns chairs were reviewed in the January 15, 1993 and August 15, 1993 issues.)

We could not find for this review a device called the Topclimber, that utilizes a static line, moveable hand grippers and a set of stirrups. It once was handled by Luna Industries, a Canadian firm, but their telephone answering machine states that they no longer handle the Topclimber.

Home-Made Chair & Tackle But heres another approach, prompted by a letter from a reader, Michael Spencer of Duluth, Minnesota, who asked, How do real riggers do it? He had asked a professional rigger, who described a system involving two fiddle blocks and a length of 5/8″ line five times the height of the mast. But the rigger issued so many warnings and admonishments, Spencer is being rightfully cautious. So, he wrote us.

Weve been admiring our riggers system for some years now. Tim Leery of Portsmouth, Rhode Island told us that he copied his chair and tackle from others and it too has been copied. Like Mr. Spencers rigger, Tim has 4:1 purchase, but does not use fiddle blocks. Schaefer 3″ side-by-side double blocks, one with a becket and both with shackles make up the purchase. What distinguishes Tims setup is the big teak cleat bolted to the lower block with 1/4″ x 40 machine screws and nuts (see photo), for belaying his 300′ of 7/16″ Regatta braid. (Note that he does not use a stopper, clutch or cam, Clam or jam cleat.)

To use, he secures the shackle (not a snap shackle!) to a halyard led over an internal masthead sheave (never a block suspended from a crane!). Then he gets into the chair and begins hauling. Though hes only lifting about 25% of his weight, he says it does require some arm strength. For less effort, the purchase could be increased to 5:1 or 6:1 by using one triple/double or triple/triple block combinations, the disadvantages being that the hauling line gets proportionally longer and thered be increased friction.

To secure himself when he stops, Tim belays the lifting line on the teak cleat bolted to the block. Then, he runs a 4′ pennant around the mast and back to his chair, securing it with a carabiner. This pennant not only keeps him from swinging, it will stop his fall at the first obstruction, such as the spreaders.

Working from a swinging chair isn’t easy. Tim recommends installing two steps near the masthead for foot placement. This enables one to actually work at masthead level by getting a little higher; the blocks with chair stop a little short of letting you get your head above the masthead.

Because Tim works alone, he does not have a safety line in the form of another halyard attached to a harness. When a helper is available, this is a good idea. That person should take the halyard end to a winch or give it a half-turn on a cleat and trim as the rigger ascends. When the rigger descends, the helper should pay out line, keeping some tension and friction on the winch or cleat.

Weve been up the mast many times with a helper or two grinding and tailing a winch below, and frankly, its always made us nervous. Paranoia sets in. What happens, for example, if a bee stings the tailer? Or he gets a cramp or simply relaxes his grip when he spots Willow Bay on a passing boat?

Most professional riggers we know, including Tim Leery, prefer to take themselves up rather than rely on deckhands.

The Bottom Line Now to summarize both the July 1 review of steps and this examination of the ladders and other means of going to the masthead, the choices in steps remain the same: Fixed or folding.

The fixed types are basically the old $16.99 Ronstan, which is small and snag-free, or triangular-shaped pieces of stainless steel or aluminum that are fastened with screws or rivets. They hold the feet captive, a good feeling in a seaway. But, halyards inevitably foul on them. We think the best of the triangles is the $26.99 Pace-Edwards, an excellent aluminum extrusion that can be fastened with aluminum rivets.

The folding types-the $14.50 Mast Walker (made by Damage Control) and a nearly-identical $15.99 step made by ABI-present less of a corner for halyards to catch, but are simply pegs that despite a lip at the end, don’t hold the foot captive.

The final choice in steps are the de-mountable Fasteps, which sell for $12.95. Used in conjunction with the previously mentioned Saf Brak, which sells for $68.95, we think the Fastep/Saf Brak combination is the best choice in steps. Besides providing automatic safety against falling, the Saf Brak keeps the climber close to the mast.

For web ladders, theres little to choose between the Mast Mate and Capt. Als. With either, the tendency to swing around is nerve wracking. Still, we keep one aboard. The manufacturers of these web ladders talk about hoisting them on any halyard or even a topping lift, but note that the professional rigger will not go aloft on anything that does not go over a fixed masthead sheave. One also should periodically check the sewing.

Of the Mastlift, its an expensive but solidly engineered solution to a problem that can be solved less extravagantly-unless you want to use it for other lifting purposes. Backed up by a Saf Brak, it provides an extraordinary feeling of security. We exercised it a number of times while repairing lights and instruments on Viva, our Tartan 44 test boat (see photo) and with each usage, confidence climbed higher and higher.

Finally, if youre inclined to go often to the masthead without anyone to help, consider rigging your own tackle, but as a safeguard buy and figure out how to rig a Saf Brak. A photo of the Saf Brak is in the July 1 issue.

Again, a reminder about going aloft while underway.

Going up a bare mast with sturdy gear while tied to a dock on a calm morning is not difficult-just nervous.

Doing so while underway, with the mainsail set, is a much more demanding feat. You cannot reach the masthead with the mainsail set using steps unless you go up along the forward edge of the mast. You cannot go up with either web ladders, because they mount in the mainmast track. You could rig the Mastlift, but were not sure how it would be with that 15-pound canister swinging around up there. You can go aloft with a block and tackle of your own assembly, but unless you use a Saf Brak on a separate line, you have nothing to prevent you from swinging around.

Our choice? We like the ability to go it alone and not depend on the strength and concentration of crew below, especially-and we don’t mean to be sexist here-a small woman. If we had the bucks, wed buy the Mastlift. If not, the home-made riggers tackle would satisfy us nicely. With any of these systems-steps, ladders or tackle-wed definitely use the Saf Brak. For about $70, it is, we think, the best insurance you can buy.

Contacts- ABI, 1160A Industrial Ave., Petaluma, CA 94952; 707/765-6200. Capt. Als Products, PO Box 370153, West Hartford, CT 06137-0153; 860/232-9065. Defender Industries, Inc., 42 Great Neck Road, Waterford, CT 06385; 800/628-8225. Fastep & Saf Brak, Alfred Gilbert Enterprises, 2921 Wood Pipe Lane, Philadelphia, PA 19129; 215/849-4016. Mastlift, IMTA, 326 First St., Suite 17, Annapolis, MD 21403; 800/606-0589. Mast Mate, Box 5035, Augusta, ME, 04332, 800/548-0436. Mast Walker, Damage Control, 7670 Bay St., Pasadena, MD 21122-3433; 410/360-2445. Pace-Edwards, 2400 Commercial Blvd., Centralia, WA 98531; 800/338-3697. Ronstan, 7600 Bryan Dairy Rd., Largo, FL 33777; 813/545-1911. Schaefer Marine, 158 Duchaine, New Bedford, MA 02745-1293; 508/995-9511. West Marine, 500 Westridge Dr., Watsonville, CA 95076; 800/262-8464.

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Mast Ladder

This Mast Ladder Will Get You to the Top in No Time!

Sooner or later, you have to go up the mast. Recovery Marine's Mast Ladder is an easy-climbing 50-foot alternating-step, flexible ladder made of 2" (50mm) wide nylon webbing with a sewn tensile strength of 3,000 lb. And yet, it still easily packs into a compact bag.

The Mast Ladder retails for $245.00

But we've negotiated a Special Discount Deal with Recovery Marine for our visitors:

Use the Code sailboatcruiser at Check-Out to Get Your Mast Ladder for just $211.50!

LENGTH: 50 feet;
ALTERNATING STEP LENGTH: 17 inches;
STRENGTH: Sewn tensile strength of 3,000 pounds;
STEPS: Double-reinforced with steps formed by two continuous parallel straps of webbing, one sewn to form the step, the other straight, and vice versa, over the length of the ladder;
DEPLOYMENT: Fittings slide into mainsail track and hoisted on main halyard;
EASY-TO-USE: Climbing is easy;
CONVENIENT: Comes with its own bag, folds up into a packet, roughly the size of a three-inch-thick legal-sized paper pad;
BRIGHTLY COLORED: For easy viewing and use.

Use the Code sailboatcruiser at Check-Out to Get Your Mast Ladder at the discounted price!

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Mast Size Pricing

Mast Mate Safety-tether

Pricing includes shackles, storage bag, and stiffeners . You will need to purchase the slides separtately. Shipping within the continental USA is $26.

MAST MATES are available in the following sizes: 27′ ………. $292.00 + S&H 35′ ………. $355.00 + S&H 42′ ………. $415.00 + S&H 50′ ………. $455.00 + S&H Custom Sizes @ $13.00 /ft

Shackles , Storage Bag and 2 stiffeners Included. Customer Supplies Track Slides, available at sail makers and marine stores, or http://www.sailrite.com

27ft——- 19 slides 35ft——–25 slides 42ft——–30 slides 50ft——–36 slides

What Length Do You Need?

Assuming you can easily climb up on your boom, the length Mast Mate you need is the distance from your mast head to your boom, the ‘P’ measurement of your main. The easiest way to make this measurement is to attach a light line to your main halyard, hoist it to the top, put a piece of tape on the line at the boom, or further down if you need a step or two below the boom, lower the halyard and measure the line. It is OK if a standard length Mast Mate is a bit too long, the excess just lays on deck.

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Up the Mast

Posted by Steve Christensen | Sailing Tips

Ease that fear of falling: Techniques for making a trip up the stick safer.

The only sure things in life are death, taxes, and that – sooner or later – you will have to go up your mast. Many people dread going aloft and will do just about anything to avoid it, even putting off needed repairs or rig inspections. But the trip needn’t be a white-knuckle affair. With the proper equipment and technique, you can actually enjoy going aloft. I’ve gone from being afraid of heights to looking for opportunities to climb the mast (anyone’s mast) just for the view. Really.

There are two parts to the problem. The first is how to get up the mast. Unless you have a couple of strong deck apes handy to grind away on a halyard winch, this can be a real concern. But this isn’t your only consideration. Just as important is the question of what to use for support once you’re up there.

Bosun’s chairs

For most sailors the answer to this second part is the trusty bosun’s chair. For comfort aloft it’s hard to beat a well-padded board. But bosun’s chairs are also part of the reason most people hate going aloft. It just doesn’t feel secure sitting in one of those things. You are tense and apprehensive the whole time, worried that you might fall right out of it. And in fact, if you lean over too far in many of them (like when stretching to reach a spreader tip), you can fall out. Fabric chairs with back supports, waist belts, and crotch straps give more of a feeling of security, but you still aren’t secure.

John Vigor notes in The Practical Mariner’s Book of Knowledge that he prefers to use an ordinary wooden plank as a bosun’s chair “to remain insecure and terrified on the theory that if I don’t feel complacent, I won’t relax my guard.” Avoiding complacency is a good thing, but feeling terrified may keep many sailors from going aloft, even when they need to.

Wearing a climber’s harness, you could even hang upside down safely, not that you should do this on purpose. The Petzl ascender slides up and locks on a 1/2-inch line.

Climber’s harness

The solution to this feeling of insecurity is not therapy, but a mountaineer-style climber’s harness. It looks and feels a bit strange at first to be tightly strapped into this contraption, but you get used to it. And the sense of security that comes with knowing you can even hang upside down is fantastic. It was a revelation to find just how relaxed I could feel aloft while using one of these. An additional benefit to using a harness is that the point of attachment is lower than with a chair. That makes it a little easier to reach the top of the mast when working at the masthead.

The main drawback to many harnesses is that they can be uncomfortable for long “hang times,” since your weight is supported by two-inch webbing. Choose a harness with thick padding on the waist belt and leg loops (as shown in illustration). The best I have seen uses a modified rescue harness available from Brion Toss Rigging.

There isn’t much you can do on a sailboat that is inherently more dangerous than climbing the mast. So safety should be uppermost in your mind at every step of the process. Don’t try any of these techniques until you are sure you know what you are doing. Always use a “belt and suspenders” approach, with a backup for the primary hoist method. That usually means being hooked to two halyards when aloft, preferably halyards with internal masthead sheaves. If using a climber’s harness, hook both halyards to the ring provided. If using a chair, hook the second halyard to a separate chest safety harness. (Note: for clarity the extra safety halyard was omitted from illustrations on Pages 7, 8, and 9, but this is not a good idea in practice!) Don’t depend on snap shackles! Use only screw shackles, locking carabiners, or good knots to attach the halyards: a bowline, or better yet, a buntline hitch – never a square knot (see illustration).

Before you ascend, talk through every step with those on deck who are helping you, to be sure that all of your commands are clear and understood. (The last thing you want is for someone to release the wrong halyard.) Don’t depend on self-tailers alone to belay halyards – use cleats. Tie all of your tools to your tool bucket, as it annoys members of the crew to have things fall on them. Finally, don’t get complacent when coming down – take your time.

What techniques are available for climbing the mast, and which is right for you? Some of the things to keep in mind in choosing a method include whether you need crew on deck, how much equipment is involved, and whether the technique would work at sea in an emergency.

The most obvious approach for getting up your mast would be to turn your mast into a giant ladder using mast steps. These fixed or folding metal steps are most often seen aboard shorthanded cruising boats and can make getting up the mast as simple as climbing a ladder. The benefits are that they are always ready, give easy access to the very top of the mast, and allow you to climb aloft without the aid of crew. The drawbacks include windage, weight aloft, aesthetics, potential halyard fouling, and the difficulty of hanging onto the steps in anything rougher than a dead calm. If help is available, you should always climb mast steps with a second halyard attached to a safety harness or a climber’s harness, and you should have someone taking up the slack in the halyard to support you in case you fall. Once up the mast, you may still want a bosun’s chair or a climber’s harness for support while working, as you can’t easily reach the spreader tips from the mast steps. Overall, if you are willing to put up with having steps on your mast, it would be hard to beat the convenience of this method.

If you plan on using mast steps to go aloft alone, you should rig an ascender on a fixed line as a backup. An ascender is a piece of mountain-climbing gear ($50). Well-known examples include the Petzl and Jumar. It fits around a line (of about 1/2 inch diameter) and has an internal cam that allows it to slide easily up a line, but locks in place if you pull downward. If you have an available halyard of the proper diameter, you secure it near the deck, fasten a tether from the ascender to your harness, and slide the ascender up the fixed line as you go. If your halyard is not the proper diameter, you will need to hoist a 1/2-inch line aloft instead. Once you get where you’re going, you can allow the ascender to take the load. To descend, you momentarily disengage the cam and slide the ascender down a few feet at a time as you climb down the steps.

An alternative to using a halyard or an ascender for a backup would be to clip a safety line from your safety (or climber’s) harness around the mast as you work your way up. Use a carabiner on the end, so you can unclip as you pass the shrouds and spreaders. (An alternative to this would be a lineman’s belt, or Mast Mate’s Tool Bag Workbelt. If you fall, this line will jam up against the next obstruction on the mast. But that still means you could drop from the second to first spreaders or from just under the first spreaders to the deck. To be extra safe (especially if it is turbulent), use a halyard with an ascender and a safety line around the mast.

Block and tackle ascenders, padded climber's harness

Steve’s current preference is using a block and tackle, ascenders, and a padded climber’s harness.

Mast ladders

What if you don’t want to mount those metal triangles on your mast, but still want the simplicity of climbing steps? Then your best bet would be a mast ladder. There are currently two of these on the market, the Mast Mate and Capt. Al’s. These are essentially web ladders that are hoisted up the mast with a halyard, then made fast at the deck. To minimize the side-to-side motion while climbing, each has provisions for mounting sail slides (which you provide) to the vertical webbing. You can then run the slides up the mainsail sailtrack to give lateral support. The Mast Mate uses two-inch webbing for its single vertical support strap. It has alternating steps every 17 inches (there is also a 12-inch step version). The Capt. Al’s uses three one-inch vertical web straps, with PVC tubing placed over webbing between the straps to form the steps every 12 inches.

A mast ladder has most of the advantages of the fixed mast steps, without the drawbacks of windage, aesthetics, and potential halyard fouling. The major downside to mast ladders is that they can’t easily be used underway unless you either drop the mainsail or do without the sailtrack support. And even if the main is down, it may be necessary sometimes to remove much of the main from the sailtrack to mount the mast ladder. The safety procedures for regular mast steps (a second halyard, ascender, or safety line) should be followed here too. The Mast Mate is about $250 (35-foot length) to $350 (50-foot length) while Capt. Al’s is about $150 (36-foot length) to $250 (50-foot length).

My Ericson came with a Mast Mate left in one of the lockers by the previous owner. I loved the simplicity of the approach and was eager to try it. But I found the sensation of climbing a flexible ladder to be a little unsteady for my taste (not surprising, since I wasn’t using any safety backup that day), and I only made it to the lower spreaders before turning back. By the time I needed to go aloft again, I had installed a batten car system that blocked off my sailtrack – I needed to find another approach. But a friend with a 45-footer regularly uses a mast ladder and swears by it.

Halyard winches

Another method for going aloft uses the boat’s halyard winch to hoist someone in a bosun’s chair attached to a halyard. There are a few problems with this approach. In the case of most sailing couples, the man goes aloft and the woman stays on deck. Given the small size of most halyard winches, there usually isn’t enough mechanical advantage for the woman (or many men, for that matter) to be able to handle the load. Furthermore, if the winch isn’t self-tailing, you need a third person to tail.

One way to make things slightly easier is to use a snatch block to lead the halyard to one of the primary winches aboard. But even with a larger winch, this approach can still be too much work. Of course, this method doesn’t allow you to get aloft by yourself. And that’s one of the drawbacks – you have to really trust the people at the winch, as they do have your life in their hands. (Couples: don’t try this right after an argument.)

After the experiment with the mast ladder, we next tried having my wife hoist me aloft in a bosun’s chair. But even with the help of our primaries, it was just too much work for her. The only way I made any progress was by wrapping my arms and legs around the mast and shinnying a few inches at a time to create slack in the halyard. But this can lead to overrides on the winch. We had to find another way.

Powered winches

Depending on the equipment aboard your boat, there are a couple of ways to lessen the effort of this grinding. If you have electric primaries, getting someone aloft is as easy as pressing a button. Lacking these, the next best bet would be to run the tail of the halyard forward to a powered anchor windlass. If you do decide to try either of these options, be especially careful with the last few feet of hoist near the masthead. Without the feedback of a manual winch, it may not be obvious when you have “two-blocked” the rig, and you can jam the shackles in the masthead halyard sheave or even rip out the attachment rings in the chair if you aren’t careful. This is why some people argue against the practice of using electric winches or powered windlasses in this application.

Counterweights aloft

An alternative to having your crew winch you aloft directly is to attach a heavy counterweight to one end of an external halyard (internals won’t work here) and hoist the weight to the masthead instead. You then attach yourself to the other end of the halyard and let gravity do the work as the counterweight drops. This is supposed to be an old trick of singlehanders, who had no one around to help with the grinding. And I suppose someone could use this technique to get aloft if the crew weren’t strong enough to handle the winch. Of course you should at least take care that you weigh more than the counterweight, or you could easily get stuck up there!

I offer the following as an example of just how ingenious sailors can be when there is a problem to be solved, not as a recommended technique for getting aloft. My favorite version of this involved someone hoisting aloft a large, empty, plastic container with one end of a garden hose tied to the inside rim. Once it was in place, the skipper turned on the water to fill the container, and rode up the mast on the other end of the halyard as the container filled. If you do decide to try something like this, please alert your dockmates so they can have their video cameras ready.

The Mastlift chain hoist makes going up a one-person job.

What if your partner can’t grind you aloft, and there’s never a deck ape around to help when you need one? In this case you might consider the Swisstech Mastlift. This is a chain hoist with a 10:1 gear ratio, except that the load-bearing line is made of Spectra, not chain. In practice, you shackle the Mastlift to a halyard, attach the load-bearing line to a bosun’s chair or climbing harness, unroll the load-bearing line as you hoist the 15-pound cylinder to the masthead, then cleat the halyard. Using the endless control line (with double internal safety brakes), you then hoist yourself aloft. This is easily a one-person job, with very little effort. It would be a good idea to lightly fasten a line around the control line at deck level to prevent it from blowing away and fouling, especially if you go up alone. For safety you would want to use one of the backup methods mentioned above.

Downsides to the Mastlift? The first is that the size of the drum makes it a little more difficult to get close to the masthead, as you are probably a foot lower than when using a halyard alone. But the big drawback of the Mastlift is cost. When I contacted the importer a couple of years ago, the introductory special prices were $1,100 for the 45-foot hoist model, and $1,300 for the 82-foot model. At that price not too many skippers will be buying them for their personal use. But it would be a great item for a club to own, if you could just figure a way around the inevitable liability issues.

By the way, a solution to the problem of not quite being able to reach the masthead from a chair or harness is to fashion a pair of rope steps, each at the end of a four-foot tether. Once you get as close to the masthead as possible, attach the tethers to the crane with a carabiner. Then place your feet in the steps, and stand up at the masthead. Hold yourself upright with a piece of line tied around your waist and the mast. Mast Mate sells a Workbelt patterned after a lineman’s belt that is designed for just this application (see illustration). An alternative to the tethers is to mount a pair of mast steps on either side of the mast about four feet down.

Block and tackle

If your crew can’t hoist you aloft, and you can’t afford a Mastlift, you might consider putting together a block and tackle arrangement to help do the work. The simplest version of this is to get a length of 1/2-inch line twice the length of your mast, position a single block at the mid-point, and haul the block aloft on a halyard. Attach one end of the line to your bosun’s chair or climber’s harness with a good knot, grab the other end, and just haul yourself aloft.

How much work is this? Well, normally you find the mechanical advantage of any block and tackle by counting the number of parts coming out of the moving block. With no moving block, it seems as if there should be no mechanical advantage to this simple rig. But for reasons that still confuse me, there is a 2:1 mechanical advantage in this case, so that you are only lifting half your weight. (The best way I can explain it is to point out that you have to haul in 100 feet of line to raise yourself 50 feet.) So this is actually easier than it looks. To reduce the effort further, you add extra parts to the tackle, but that can add up to a lot of line.

I learned about this approach from rigger Brion Toss at one of his seminars, and thought I’d give it a try. To reduce the effort a bit, I opted for a 3:1 mechanical advantage. This meant putting together an upper single block with becket, a lower single block, and a 1/2-inch line three times my mast’s length, or 150 feet (see Figure A on the next page). Brion also suggests using a Harken “Hexaratchet” ratcheting block in the upper position, as it greatly reduces the effort required to grip the line.

When using the buntline hitch on a halyard, for added safety, pass the line through the thimble, rather than the shackle, if it will fit. If not, tape the shackle closed.

This tackle approach will work with either a bosun’s chair or a climber’s harness, but I use a climber’s harness knowing I need the feeling of security it provides. After getting the line reeved through the blocks, I haul the upper block aloft with a halyard, and shackle the lower block to my harness. For safety, I use a second halyard attached to the harness, but any of the backup methods would work.

carabiner hitch.

Before hauling away, there are two more techniques to mention. The first is how to belay the line once you’re up there. You can make do by passing a bight of the line through the ring in your harness and making several half hitches with the loop. But I like the technique Brion uses in which the standing part of the line is led through a carabiner at the harness and then tied off using a special mountaineering knot – the carabiner hitch (see illustration on next page). This carabiner hitch is easy to tie and untie under load – a real advantage.

I added a second technique as a way to feel even more secure. It involves mounting an ascender on the hauling part of the tackle and then rigging a three-foot tether between the harness and the ascender. Each pull aloft is made easier by having the comfortable handle of the ascender, rather than just the line, to grip. At the bottom of each pull, I hold the line fast at the carabiner with one hand and slide the ascender back up the hauling part with the other. The added security comes from the short tether, as I could let go with both hands and only slide back three feet at most. This addition also makes it easy to stop and rest along the way. To get as close to the masthead as possible, I remove the ascender from the line, two-block the tackle, and rig a carabiner hitch. To descend, I just keep a wrap or two around the carabiner and slowly lower myself to the deck.

This combination of tackle, climbing harness, and ascender is a real joy to use. With it I feel secure enough that I’ve been known to go up the mast while underway just to take pictures from the masthead. (It’s amazing how small a 38-foot sailboat looks from 50 feet up!)

This approach is good for singlehanders, as you don’t need help from anyone on deck. And that means you don’t have to depend on anyone else for your safety. But if you do try this approach alone, give some thought to keeping the tail of the line from getting tangled in the rigging on deck. If the line gets caught, you won’t be able to lower yourself down. Brion’s instructional video, Going Aloft, features this approach. I highly recommend it.

Line climbing

Two final methods for getting up your mast are based directly on mountaineering techniques and are probably the least familiar to sailors. In these, you climb up a fixed line with your feet in rope steps at the end of tethers rigged to the fixed line with ascenders. You could use one of your halyards as the fixed line (if it’s the proper diameter), but since the cams of the ascenders are hard on the line, I recommend hoisting aloft a separate length of 1/2-inch rope to reduce halyard wear.

I think of these two methods as the “stair step” and the “inchworm,” based on the action used to climb the rope. The “stair step” method is perhaps a little easier to understand. In this approach, two ascenders are mounted on the fixed line, each attached to a rope step on the end of a three- to four-foot tether. At least one of the ascenders is also attached with a tether to your climber’s harness (or to a safety harness if a bosun’s chair is used). To begin, position the steps above the deck, place your feet in the steps, and grab the ascenders for support. Then raise one leg and its corresponding ascender at the same time. After that, step up onto that upper step, and finish by raising up the other leg and its corresponding ascender to just under the first ascender.

By alternating one side after the other, you can “stair step” your way up the line. You will need to adjust the length of the tethers between the ascenders and the steps to suit your reach and height, or you can purchase two triers at $24 each from a mountaineering store. These are short web ladders with four to six steps in a line, about 15 inches apart. One of the steps should be at just about the height you need.

By comparison, the “inchworm” method looks a little strange. This method works best with a climber’s harness, but a bosun’s chair will work in a pinch. After rigging your fixed line, attach a short tether of about three feet between your harness and the first ascender. The second ascender is then added to the line underneath the first and attached to a pair of rope steps, each on a three- to four-foot tether (or a pair of triers).

To begin climbing, position the steps above the deck, place your feet in the steps, and grab the fixed line for support. First, slide the upper ascender up the fixed line as far as you can reach, then sit back to put your weight on the harness. Next, slide the lower ascender up the line as far as possible while bringing your knees up. Finally, extend your body and step up onto the steps, holding onto the fixed line for balance. After that you extend the upper ascender up the line again and sit back into the harness. Repeating these steps allows you to “inchworm” your way up the line. You will need to experiment a bit to find out how long the upper and lower tethers need to be for the most efficient progress.

The “inchworm” method is probably slower, but the motion is a little easier to learn and uses the strength of both legs at once to do the climbing. While the “stair step” method can be faster, it can take some time to get the hang of the technique (sort of like the diagonal stride in cross-country skiing). A drawback to both line-climbing methods is that getting down can be a little slow, since most ascenders are a little difficult to slide down a line as you descend.

With either of these methods, be sure to practice a bit before tackling a big job. Both are well-suited for use by singlehanders. You will, of course, want to use one of the safety backup methods with or without crew on deck.

Which is best for you?

Which approach is best for you depends on your boat, your age, and your bank account. Just like everything else in sailing, each approach is a compromise, and no single method is right for everyone. I like my current block-and-tackle rig, but if I could afford it, I would have a Mastlift instead. I strongly suggest that you consider trying a climber’s harness for support aloft – unless you like feeling insecure and terrified.

Above all, please be safe up there.

Article from Good Old Boat magazine, September/October 1999.

About The Author

Steve Christensen

Steve Christensen, a research chemist, moved from Utah to Michigan and took up sailing to replace skiing. Steve and Beth sail Rag Doll, an Ericson 38, on Lake Huron. They spend each August cruising the waters of The North Channel and dream of retirement as liveaboards someplace warm.

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Sailboat ladder or mast ladder that allows one to climb the mast alone for maintenance. CLIMBING SYSTEM. Mast Mate is an alternating-step, flexible mast ladder made of 2 inch-wide nylon webbing. Each mast step is reinforced with an additional piece of webbing.The sewn tensile strength of the webbing is a minimum of 3,000 pounds.
How to Climb a Mast
A mast ladder is one method to climb the mast of a sailboat for maintenance. Sailors often need to climb the mast to inspect the rigging, replace light bulbs, service wind instruments, or free tangled lines. Mast ladders are made of webbing and collapse for easy storage.
Sailboat Mast Ladder 50 Feet (15.2 m)
Sooner or later, you have to go up the mast. Recovery Marine's Mast Ladder is an easy-climbing 50-foot alternating-step, flexible ladder made of two-inch (2-inch) wide nylon webbing with a sewn tensile strength of 3,000 pounds. And yet, it still easily packs into a compact bag. LENGTH: 50 feet ALTERNATING STEP LENGTH: 12 inches STRENGTH: Sewn ...
Four Ways to Climb a Mast Solo
Mast Mate ( mastmate.com, from $280): Made from tough 2in-wide nylon webbing, the Mast Mate is about as simple as a mast climbing device could be. The webbing steps are 17in apart, and there's a grommet just below each step to which a plastic sail slide shackle is attached. There are four standard lengths, from 27ft to 50ft.
How to build a mast ladder by yourself to climb solo to the top of the
Climbing the mast of our sailboats is a necessity that we can have with certain frequency and that is not without difficulty. Either to check the rigging, do maintenance of the wind equipment, antennas, and other instruments that rest on the top of it, or simply to install a new gadget that arises from the ideas that we propose in this blog, having the possibility to climb the mast comfortably ...
Mast Ladder MastL
Mast Ladder MastL. Rated 4.97 out of 5 based on 33 customer ratings. ( 33 customer reviews) 107,36 USD - 360,07 USD. Mast Ladder MastL is a professional webbing ladder for maintenance works on sailing yacht masts. It is very helpful during individual climbing the mast, periodic mast and rigging inspection and repair or replacement of ...
Mast ladders
Mast ladders parameters: brand new product made in EU. material - webbing: polypropylene, threads: polyester. hanger - triangular ring made of AISI 316 steel. webbing colour: black, sewing: yellow. webbing width: 50 mm. Other ladder and sliders sizes are also available on individual order. *Pictures and movies from our customers.
7 mast climbing kits on test
PRICES*: 27ft $240 (£146), 35ft $300 (£183), 42ft $357 (£218) Contact: www.mastmate.com. This type of webbing ladder has been available in a number of guises for many years. We tried a Mast Mount, which is no longer produced, but an almost identical product, the Mast Mate, is still available from the USA.
Mast Ladder 50
Description. Sailboat Mast Ladder (EASY SHORT STEP) to climbing mast 50 feet (15.24 Meters) Now easier to climb Mast Ladder 50 feet of an alternating-step flexible ladder made of 2 inch-wide polyester webbing. The sewn tensile strength of the webbing is 3,000 pounds. The distance between the alternating steps is 12 inches.
Yacht Mast Ladder
Yacht Mast Ladder. £ 600.00 - £ 1,380.00. This is a bespoke product, which is made to measure. Choose your spreader type & size band to see your price. Size is based on Luff Length NOT Boat Length. See our printable measuring guide here. Spreader Type.
The best mast climbing gear for sailors & solo climbers
This belay device can be used with all single ropes (optimised for 8.9 to 10.5 mm diameter ropes) and is equipped with an assisted breaking function. Suitable for beginner mast climbers to expert riggers. Specifications. • line size: 8.9mm - 10.5mm. • 200g. • auto-locking.
Products
Mast Mate is an alternating-step flexible mast ladder made of 2 inch-wide nylon webbing. The sewn tensile strength of the webbing is 3,000 pounds. The distance between the alternating steps is 17 inches. The sail boat ladder steps are double reinforced with the same webbing. The steps are not sewn on to a main strap, but rather are formed by ...
About the Kinleven Mast Ladder
The Kinleven Yacht Mast Ladder is a simple and stable solution which will allow you to climb your mast solo and with minimal preparation. Hoisted on a Halyard. Stabilised by the climber's weight on its 3 line webbing construction. Secured by sail slides in the Luff Groove, or other Sail Management System. Carefully designed for grip, comfort ...
7 mast climbing methods and gear on test
SwissTech Mast Ladder. PRICE*: 10m £431; ... For the test we used a single ascender with a foot loop made from a heavy-duty sail tie and a harness on a long strop. You sit in the harness, with your weight taken on a halyard, and slide the ascender up the static line. Next, stand up in the foot loop while a crewman takes up the slack in the ...
Mast Ladder MastS
The ladder is optionally equipped with A89 type nylon slides with dimensions:. length: 32mm; height: 21mm; width: 15mm; If you choose the Slide Type: None option, the product will be delivered only with a set of plastic shackles. If the A89 type sail slides do not fit your mast, you can purchase additional slides and slugs in our store.. Buyers from UK: check article about purchase regulations ...
EP03
In this video, learn how to build an affordable DIY mast ladder for your sailboat, allowing you to easily and safely climb to the top of the mast solo. Using...
Recovery Marine
Be #1 to get notify on latest updates and special offer. Join our newsletter to be the first to know about new arrivals, sales and promos. Recovery Marine is your source to find top quality Sailboat Mast Ladder, Winch Bit, Life Rafts and other accessories. Visit us to shop now!
How To: Sailboat Mast Climbing Guide
Climbing your sailboat mast can be an easy and enjoyable activity. With the right equipment and information you will successfully be able to access all exterior parts of your mast. ... There are ladders which utilize your mainsail mast track, webbing loops raised to the mast top using the main halyard, and permanently installed mast steps ...
Going Up the Mast Alone
The two ladders-Capt. Als and the Mast Mate-are made of very strong webbing. Each is hoisted to the masthead with a halyard. Sail slides to fit your mast track and shackled to the vertical length of webbing help keep the ladder close to the mast. Mast Mate uses powerful 2″ nylon-Dacron blend webbing for both the single vertical strap and the ...
This Mast Ladder Will Get You to the Top in No Time!
Recovery Marine's Mast Ladder is an easy-climbing 50-foot alternating-step, flexible ladder made of 2" (50mm) wide nylon webbing with a sewn tensile strength of 3,000 lb. And yet, it still easily packs into a compact bag. The Mast Ladder retails for $245.00. But we've negotiated a Special Discount Deal with Recovery Marine for our visitors:
How to Buy
Assuming you can easily climb up on your boom, the length Mast Mate you need is the distance from your mast head to your boom, the 'P' measurement of your main. The easiest way to make this measurement is to attach a light line to your main halyard, hoist it to the top, put a piece of tape on the line at the boom, or further down if you ...
How to climb on the mast of a sailing yacht? Try the 4yachts mast ladder
Every owner of a sailing yacht sometimes needs to climb the mast, e.g. for periodic rigging inspection, repair or replacement of equipment installed on it.Th...
Up the Mast
The Mast Mate is about $250 (35-foot length) to $350 (50-foot length) while Capt. Al's is about $150 (36-foot length) to $250 (50-foot length). My Ericson came with a Mast Mate left in one of the lockers by the previous owner. I loved the simplicity of the approach and was eager to try it.

How to Climb a Mast – Is a Mast Ladder Worth It?

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