installing transducer on sailboat

Where Is The Best Place To Mount A Transducer? (Top 5 Locations)

UPDATED 03 NOVEMBER 2023

by Robert Ceran

Are you wondering where to mount your fish finder transducer?

As you probably know, it’s essential to install your transducer correctly in order to get good performance from it.

Table of Contents

But choosing the right location to mount a transducer is more complicated than most people anticipate, since each location comes with its own set of challenges and pros and cons.

In this article we’ll go over the 5 best places to mount a transducer on a boat, and what you need to know in order to choose the right location for your transducer. 

Where to mount a transducer on a boat

The top five transducer mounting locations on a boat are:

• Transom mount
• Trolling motor mount
• In-hull mount
• Thru hull mount

Out of these five transducer placement options, the most commonly used ones by far are transom and trolling motor mounts, though the other three can also be great options for specific situations and applications. 

When choosing the right transducer mounting location, it’s important to keep in mind that all of these options come with their own pros and cons, and you should weigh these carefully before choosing the right one for your purposes.

Screwless transducer mounting kit

Pad for mounting your transducer without screwing into the boat hull.

Where to mount transducer on transom

Now let’s talk about choosing the best transom mount transducer location, since this is one of the most commonly used places to mount a transducer on a boat. 

Unfortunately, many anglers choose an incorrect transducer placement on the transom, and as a result they experience problems with their sonar imaging.

That’s why it’s so important to get the transducer placement right in order to achieve the best results.

What is the best transom mount transducer location?

It’s essential to mount your transducer in an area of the transom that doesn’t have any turbulence, since even a little turbulence can negatively impact the quality of your sonar image. 

This means you should avoid areas with turbulent water flow aft of rivets, strakes, or ribs in the hull. Choose a transducer placement spot on the transom where the hull in front of this location is flat and smooth.

Also, make sure that the transducer is at least 15 inches away from the propeller of your outboard motor, and check whether the outboard can rotate fully in all directions without bumping into the transducer (which needs to be checked in the fully trimmed position). 

What is the best transducer mounting height?

The best transducer mounting height is at the bottom edge of the transom, with the lower surface of the transducer protruding about 1/32 to 1/16 inches below the bottom of the boat.

It’s important to avoid mounting the transducer too high on the transom, since this will cause it to be out of the water at planing speed (keep in mind that the water level of the transom drops when the boat is on plane). 

If you mount your transducer too high on the transom, this will still allow it to function at slow speeds under 2 to 3 mph. But as soon as the boat gets faster than that, the transducer will stop working. 

Secondly, you also want to avoid the transducer being too low on the transom, as that will trigger turbulence and rooster tail formation, which also negatively affects the quality of sonar imaging. 

So the ideal transducer mounting height on the transom is with the bottom surface of the transducer just slightly protruding below the bottom of the boat (see diagram above). 

How far should a transducer be in the water?

The transducer placement needs to be deep enough so that its piezoelectric crystals are fully covered by water.

This can be accomplished even if the top of the transducer is flush with the water level, but if its crystals are out of the water, the sonar can’t function, and you won’t get an image. 

One thing you need to keep in mind is that the water level of the transom goes down at planing speed, and if your transducer is mounted too high, the crystals will be out of the water when you’re going fast.  

Should the transducer be flush with the bottom of the boat?

No, it’s actually better if the bottom edge of the transducer protrudes by about 1/32 to 1/16 inch below the bottom of the boat.

This is just enough to ensure that it is covered by water even at planing speed, but not low enough to trigger turbulence and rooster tail formation.

If the transducer is flush with the bottom of the boat, it will still work at slower speed, but not at high speeds. 

Can you mount a transducer too low?

Yes, if you mount a transducer too low, it will trigger turbulence and air bubble formation around the transducer, as well as rooster tail formation behind the transducer.

This turbulence decreases the quality of the sonar imaging, especially when your boat is planing at higher speed. 

What side of the boat do you mount a transducer?

A transducer should be mounted on the side of the boat with the downstroke of the outboard propeller, which is usually on the starboard side.

An easy way to check this for your boat is to observe the direction of rotation of your propeller. If it’s clockwise, then your transducer placement should be on the starboard side, but if it’s anti-clockwise, then the transducer should be on the port side. 

The side of the transom with the downward stroke of the prop has less turbulence than the side with the upward stroke, which is why it is the best transducer mounting location. 

Where to mount a transducer on trolling motor

The best place to mount a transducer on a trolling motor depends on the type of transducer you’re using.

A forward facing transducer (such as LiveScope, Active Target , or MEGA Live) should be mounted on the shaft of the trolling motor, as that gives it an unobstructed view in the forward direction.

The great thing about this type of transducer mount is that it will automatically point your transducer in the same direction as the trolling motor.

However, you can also achieve this with a trolling motor barrel mount if the transducer is placed on the side of the lower compartment.

If you want to mount a 2D or down imaging transducer on your trolling motor, the best way to do this is with a barrel mount, which uses a circular mounting bracket that fits around the lower compartment of the trolling motor.

This mounting location is ideal for pointing the transducer downwards without obstructing its view.

The best locations to mount different types of transducers

Now let’s take a closer look at different types of transducers, and the best mounting locations for each of them.

Where to mount a side imaging transducer

The best location to mount a side imaging transducer is at the transom, since that usually allows its sonar beams to shoot sideways in both directions while you’re driving the boat around, which enables you to scout large areas of water to both sides without having to slow down.

But when mounting a side imaging transducer on the transom, you need to take care that you put it in a spot where it isn’t blocked on one side by the outboard motor when it is fully trimmed down.

Where to mount a down imaging transducer

The best location to mount a down imaging transducer is either the transom, or the trolling motor.

Which transducer placement is best for you depends on whether you plan to use the down imaging while you’re driving around (in which case a transom mount is best), or while you’re fishing (in which case a trolling motor mount is best).

If you mount your transducer on your trolling motor, the best option is a barrel mount, since that allows you to position it at the very bottom and pointing downwards with an unobstructed view.

Finally, Humminbird offers several thru hull down imaging transducers that you can mount inside your boat without drilling a hole.

This option is great if you want to use down imaging to scan the water below while driving around with your boat at planing speed. 

Where to mount a LiveScope transducer

The best location to mount a LiveScope transducer is on the shaft of your  trolling motor, which is ideal for a forward facing sonar. This also holds true for other brands of live sonar, including Lowrance Active Target or Humminbird MEGA Live . 

However, an alternative option is to use a transducer mounting pole , which was specifically designed for live sonars, and can be positioned at the front of your boat similar to a trolling motor.

The nice thing about using a transducer mounting pole is that you can point your transducer in different directions independently of the trolling motor, simply by rotating the handle of the mounting pole.

The same mounting locations that are ideal for live sonar transducers are also a great choice for Humminbird 360 or Mega 360 transducers.

Where to mount an in-hull transducer

The best place to mount an In-hull transducer is as close as possible to the centerline of the hull and towards the aft end, since this part of the hull remains in contact with the water even at high speed.

If mounted correctly, this transducer location will allow you to get high quality sonar readings at high speed with an in-hull transducer.

But keep in mind that in-hull transducers can only be used on fiberglass boats, since fiberglass has sonar characteristics that are similar to water, which enables an in-hull transducer to shoot its sonar beam through the hull. 

When choosing the right location to mount an in-hull transducer, choose an area that has no ribs, rivets, or other protrusions on the outside of the hull, in order to avoid water turbulence.

You also need to avoid locations with cables or other sources of interference. 

Where to mount a thru hull transducer

The best place for mounting a thru hull transducer is as close as possible to the centerline of the hull and towards the aft of the boat.

Choosing an aft midship transducer placement ensures that the transducer will be in contact with water even when planing at high speed.

Also, if you have an inboard motor, make sure that the thru hull transducer is mounted forward of the propeller.

Where to mount a transducer on a pontoon boat

The best place to mount a transducer is at the bottom edge of the bracket at the back end on one of the pontoon tubes.

Since pontoon boats are built on top of pontoon tubes, they don’t have a transom like other boat types, and so require a different using a different location to mount a transducer.

When mounting the transducer, make sure that it is just under the water line, and parallel to the water surface.

If your cockpit is on the starboard side, it’s a good idea to mount the transducer on the same side, to make it easier to run a cable to the cockpit.

And when you lay down the cable, make sure to keep it away from any other wires or electronic devices that can cause interference.

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Installing a Transom-Mount Transducer on a Boat

• By Jim Hendricks
• Updated: April 6, 2020

It don’t mean a thing if ain’t got that ping. With apologies to the first lady of song, the late great Ella Fitzgerald, that sums up fish-finder performance. The world’s finest sonar is useless without a transducer that pings and receives the echoes in an effective manner. Ultimately, pings paint the picture of the underwater world. To work well, a transducer requires immersion in water that’s free of air bubbles that cause aeration and result in sonar interference.

Read Next: Airmar TM165HW Wide-Beam Chirp-Ready Transducer (Transom-Mount)

Many transducers are mounted with a bracket on the transom — a convenient location that requires no large holes in the bottom of the boat and eliminates interference with trailer bunks. But this zone is also prone to excessive aeration as H₂O streams out from under the hull and props agitate the water. These transducers demand careful installation. Here are tips for mounting one of the most popular transom-mount models, the Airmar P66 dual-frequency ’ducer (available with a speed and temp sensor)on a sterndrive boat with a 12-degree transom angle. Make sure the connector plug on the cable matches the transducer port for your particular brand of fish finder.

Skill Level: 2 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 3 hours

Tools and Supplies

• Airmar P66 transom-mount Triducer with speed and temp sensors ($159.99, westmarine.com )

• Power drill, drill-bit set and countersink

• Phillips screwdriver

• Straightedge

• 3M 4200 marine sealant

• Electricians snake (for routing cables)

• Masking tape (to secure template)

• Measuring tape

• Stern Saver mounting block, to avoid drilling into the transom ($49.99, tacklewarehouse.com )

On single-drive boats, Airmar recommends locating the P66 on the side where propeller blades are moving downward, which is usually the starboard-side of a single outboard or sterndrive. It should be as close to the centerline as possible but at least 3 inches outside the swing radius of the prop blades. For twin drives, mount the transducer between the drives. Avoid areas abaft through-hull fittings or pickups that create turbulence. If you opted for a speed sensor, connect the cable to the fish finder and spin the paddle wheel to ensure it reads. Make sure there is a relatively accurate (ambient air) temp reading. If not, return it to your place of purchase.

Tip: An alternate to drilling holes in the transom, especially on aluminum boats, is to use a King Starboard (poly) block such as a Stern Saver to accept the retaining hardware. The block gets glued to the hull with a special adhesive, and hardware gets screwed into the block.

Cut out the supplied template and position it so the arrow at the bottom is aligned with the bottom edge of the transom. Be sure the template is parallel with the waterline, then tape it in place. Using a 9/64-inch bit, drill three holes 7/8-inch deep at the marked locations. To prevent from drilling too deeply, wrap masking tape around the bit 7/8-inch from the point. To minimize gelcoat cracking, run the drill in reverse until the gelcoat is penetrated. After drilling, lightly chamfer each hole with a countersink bit to prevent further cracking. Drill holes 90 degrees to the angled transom surface, not horizontally, to ensure that the screw heads sit flush with the bracket.

Tip: Drill the holes at position B on the template for hulls with reverse transom slopes of between 16 and 22 degrees. Use position A to drill holes if the slope is between 2 and 15 degrees.

With the bracket removed, apply marine sealant such as 3M 4200 (suitable for below-the-waterline applications) to the supplied three No. 10-by-13/4-inch self-tapping stainless-steel screws. Also squeeze sealant into each of the three mounting holes that you drilled in the previous step. Use a manual Phillips screwdriver to screw the bracket into the transom, but don’t completely tighten screws at this point. Slide the bracket up or down in the slotted adjustment holes until the distance from the bottom left corner and bottom of the transom is 11/2 inches. Then make sure the bottom of the bracket is parallel with the waterline. At this point, tighten the screws.

Open the retaining cover on the top of the transducer bracket by depressing the latch and rotating the cover downward. Then insert the transducer’s pivot posts into the slots on the top the bracket. With posts in position, push down on the transducer to click the posts in place. Rotate the transducer downward until it snaps into the bracket. Close the retaining cover. Install the paddle-wheel speed sensor, if you have one. Route the transducer cable to the fish finder. If it is necessary to drill through the transom to route the cable, be sure to use the supplied cable cap and sealant to prevent water intrusion. Use cable clamps to secure the cable along the length of its run.

Tip: If you need to release the transducer from the bracket, use a sharp upward blow with your palm on the underside of the ’ducer. This allows access to the mounting screws if you need to adjust the height. If the transducer accidentally gets latched before mounting to the transom, slots on each side of the bracket allow a screwdriver to be inserted, releasing the bracket.

• More: diy projects , How-To , transducer , Weekend Workbook

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How to Mount Transducer on Boat

Hey buddy! I’m going to walk you through mounting a fish finder transducer on your boat. It might seem a bit complex at first, but don’t worry, I’ve got you covered with a step-by-step guide. We’ll look at the transom, in-hull, and thru-hull mounts, along with specific FAQs for top fish finder transducer brands.

Transom Mount Transducer Installation

Transom mount transducers are a popular choice for many boaters due to their user-friendly installation and removal. These devices attach to the back of the boat’s transom using a bracket and screws. Here is the detailed guide on the placement and installation of the transom transducer.

Where to Mount Transducer on Transom

Placement is critical for mounting the transducer on the transom for accurate and uninterrupted readings. Here’s a guide to ensure optimal placement on the transom:

• Central Location : Aim to install the transducer as close to the centerline of the boat as possible. Typically, this is on the starboard (right) side due to the downward swing of the propeller on most boats.
• Distance from Propeller : For boats with outboard or inboard/outboard motors, ensure the transducer is at least 15 inches (38 cm) away from the propeller to avoid interference and potential damage.
• Avoiding Propeller Path : On single-drive boats, do not place the transducer in the path of the propeller. The turbulence caused by the transducer can lead to cavitation, degrading boat performance and potentially damaging the propeller.
• Steer Clear of Turbulence : Avoid areas downstream of strakes, struts, fittings, water intake or discharge ports, or anything else that creates air bubbles or turbulent water. Such disturbances can lead to inaccurate readings.
• Placement on Twin-Drive Boats : If your boat has twin drives, the ideal location for the transducer is between the drives, if feasible.
• Consider Launch and Haul Actions : Avoid areas where the transducer might be knocked or jarred during launching, hauling, or storing the boat.
• Orientation : Ensure the transducer is parallel with the waterline when the boat is in the water. This helps maintain consistent contact with the water and ensures the most accurate readings.

Where to Place Transom Transducer Below the Hull

The ideal location for the transom transducer below the hull needs to be:

• Parallel to the bottom of your hull: This ensures consistent water flow over the transducer’s face and avoids air bubbles. You can achieve this by aligning a straight edge with the hull bottom and matching the angle of the transducer.
• Level with the waterline when viewed from the back: This is crucial for optimal side-imaging performance. On V-bottom boats, it can be tricky as they rarely sit level on trailers. Use a horizontal line on your transom (like a jackplate edge) and a framing square to adjust the side-to-side level of the transducer.
• Flush with or slightly below (up to 1/8″) the hull bottom: If you lose the bottom reading at speed, the recommendation is to lower the transducer in small increments (like 1/8” at a time) until performance improves. This adjustment helps maintain contact with the water even as the boat’s angle changes with speed.
• Avoiding excessive depth: Mounting the transducer too low increases drag, exposes it to debris, and can even create turbulence that hinders performance. Look for a roostertail of white water from the transducer’s nose as a sign it’s too low.

Installation Steps

Installing a transom-mounted transducer involves several steps to ensure it operates effectively and safely. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

• Gather Tools : Collect transducer, mounting hardware, drill, bits, marine sealant, screwdriver, wrench, tape, level, and marker.
• Confirm Location : Recheck the transducer’s position as determined earlier. Ensure it’s away from any obstructions, in a spot with minimal turbulence, and not in the path of the propeller.
• Mock Setup : Temporarily place transducer and bracket, mark screw positions ensuring level alignment.
• Drilling : Drill holes at the marked spots, using a drill bit slightly smaller than the mounting screws for a tight fit.
• Apply Sealant : Apply marine sealant to the holes to prevent water from seeping into the transom.
• Attach Bracket : Align and screw in the bracket, but keep it loose for adjustments.
• Adjust Transducer: Slide in the transducer and align it parallel to the hull. The transducer should be submerged in water when the boat is at rest for optimal performance.
• Tighten Everything : Once everything is aligned correctly, tighten the screws on the bracket and the transducer.
• Route Cable : Route the transducer cable to the fish finder display inside the boat. Avoid pinch points, and secure with clamps or ties.
• Connect Display : Attach the transducer to the display unit as per instructions and ensure a tight connection.
• Test the Setup: Test the transducer in shallow water before going out deeper to ensure it’s working correctly. Look for clear readings and adjust the transducer angle if necessary.
• Final Checks : Confirm tight screws, dry sealant, and secure cable.

Safety Tip : Wear safety glasses while drilling and adhere to tool safety guidelines.

In-Hull Transducer Installation

In-hull transducer attaches to the interior floor of the hull without any drilling. In-hull transducers are suitable for solid fiberglass hulls. They’re not recommended for metal, wood, or cored fiberglass hulls due to the interference these materials can cause with the sonar signal.

Where to Mount In-Hull Transducer

Mounting an in-hull transducer correctly is crucial for accurate sonar readings. Here are the key locations and considerations for mounting:

• Solid Fiberglass Area : The transducer should be mounted over a solid fiberglass section of the hull. Avoid areas with wood, metal, or cored fiberglass as these materials can interfere with the sonar signal.
• Bilge Near the Transom : A common placement is in the bilge area (the lowest part inside the hull) near the transom. This location is usually a single thickness of fiberglass and is in constant contact with water.
• Away from Interference : Avoid mounting the transducer over hull features that increase thickness, like strakes or ribs, or near fittings, water intake or discharge ports that can disturb the water and interfere with the signal.
• Near the Centerline : Mounting the transducer near the keel or centerline of the boat can provide a more stable and consistent reading, but ensure it’s not blocked by the keel causing shadow zones or echoes.
• Flat as Possible : The mounting surface should be as flat as possible to ensure the transducer is parallel to the waterline when the boat is at rest, providing more accurate readings.
• Check Deadrise Angle : Ensure the placement aligns with the allowable deadrise angle for your specific transducer model. This angle relates to how much the hull slants away from a horizontal plane at the transducer’s mounting location.

To install an in-hull transducer, follow these brief steps:

• Choose Location : Select a spot inside the hull in constant contact with water, away from interference, and over solid fiberglass.
• Test Position : Temporarily place the transducer at the selected location. Test it at various speeds to ensure it provides strong and consistent readings.
• Prepare Surface : Clean the area thoroughly. It should be dry and free from grease or debris.
• Apply Adhesive : Mix and apply the epoxy or adhesive recommended by the manufacturer. Ensure no bubbles or voids form.
• Mount Transducer : Press the transducer firmly into the adhesive, ensuring it’s level and parallel to the waterline.
• Allow to Cure : Wait for the adhesive to fully cure as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Connect Cables : Route the transducer cable to the fish finder display unit and connect it, securing the cable away from areas where it might get pinched or damaged.
• Test : Once installed and connected, test the transducer again to ensure it’s functioning correctly.

Thru-Hull Transducer Installation

A thru-hull transducer is mounted directly through the hull of the boat, making it a more complex and permanent solution compared to transom or in-hull types. Thru-hull transducers are preferred for larger, more sophisticated vessels, such as cruising sailboats, powerboats, and commercial fishing boats. It’s especially suitable for boats that are frequently used in deep waters and require highly accurate and reliable sonar readings.

The process involves drilling a hole in the hull, which requires careful consideration and precision to avoid damaging the boat’s structure. The transducer is fitted into this hole, ensuring direct contact with the water outside, which allows for clearer and more precise sonar signals. A key benefit of this method is the reduction of signal interference, as the transducer isn’t affected by the air, hull material, or water turbulence, unlike in-hull or transom-mounted types.

Where to Mount Thru-Hull Transducer

Mounting a thru-hull transducer requires careful consideration of the vessel’s type and hull design to ensure optimal performance and avoid interference. Here’s where to mount the transducer based on different boat types:

• Outboard and Sterndrive Vessels : Mount the transducer in front of and close to the engine or engines. This positioning helps avoid turbulence and ensures a clearer signal.
• Inboard Vessels : Place the transducer in front of the engine, far from the propeller and shaft to avoid disturbances caused by engine vibration and propeller cavitation.
• Step-Hull Vessels : For boats with stepped hulls, mount the transducer in front of the first step to ensure it remains in contact with the water, even at high speeds.
• Full-Keel Vessels : On these types of boats, the transducer should be slightly angled toward the bow and parallel to the centerline to ensure accurate readings.
• Fin-Keel Vessels : Position the transducer 25 to 75 cm (10 to 30 inches) in front of the keel and no more than 10 cm (4 inches) to the side of the centerline to avoid the turbulence caused by the keel.
• Displacement Hull Vessels : Mount the transducer approximately one-third aft from the bow along the vessel’s waterline length and 150 to 300 mm (6 to 12 inches) to the side of the centerline.

In all cases, the transducer should be mounted parallel to the bow-stern axis, away from strakes, struts, fittings, water intakes or discharge ports, and any other features that create turbulence or air bubbles. It’s also vital to ensure the transducer is not in a location where it could be jarred during launching, hauling, or storing and is not in the path of the propeller on single-drive boats. On twin-drive boats, if possible, it should be mounted between the drives. The overarching goal is to mount the transducer in a position where it will be in clean, non-turbulent water for the most accurate and reliable performance.

Mounting Transducer on Different Boats

The right transducer mounting method for a boat depends on the boat’s type, size, hull material, and intended use.

Transom Mount is ideal for small boat sonar, especially outboard and sterndrive vessels. Thru-Hull Mount is best for larger, more sophisticated boats, often used in deeper waters. In-Hull Mount is suitable for boats with solid fiberglass hulls that don’t want to drill through the hull.

Let’s have a look at how to mount a transducer on some boat types.

Aluminum Boat

A transom mount transducer is the best choice for Aluminum boats. Here’s why:

• Non-Invasive Installation : Transom-mount transducers don’t require drilling into the hull below the waterline, which is particularly important for aluminum boats to avoid potential damage or corrosion issues that can arise from improper sealing of the hull.
• Easy Adjustability : Transom mounts can be easily adjusted or repositioned. This flexibility is beneficial as aluminum boats might require more fine-tuning to get the transducer placement right due to the hull’s material and shape.
• Good Performance for the Hull Type : While in-hull transducers are generally not recommended for aluminum boats due to signal interference with the metal hull, transom-mount transducers provide a direct and clear path for the sonar signal through the water.
• Cost-Effective and Less Complex : Compared to thru-hull options, transom mounts are generally less expensive and simpler to install and maintain, making them a practical choice for the typically smaller and more versatile aluminum boats.

A transom transducer is mounted the same way on an aluminum boat as on other boats. The key considerations of placement, avoiding areas of turbulence, and ensuring the transducer is parallel to the waterline remain the same. However, extra care should be taken to seal any drill holes properly to prevent corrosion, which is a particular concern with aluminum hulls.

Mounting a transducer on a kayak typically involves an in-hull approach, especially for kayaks made from solid fiberglass or polyethylene. But for kayaks with specialized scupper holes or when in-hull mounting isn’t ideal, consider aftermarket solutions:

• Transducer Poles : Brands like Ram Mount or Scotty Kayak produce transducer poles that allow you to lower the transducer into the water from the side of the kayak.
• Scupper Hole Mounts : This method involves using a transducer mount that fits into the existing scupper holes on your kayak. Scupper hole mounting is very simple and does not require any drilling or permanent modifications to your kayak.

Pontoon Boat

Mounting a transducer on a pontoon boat is relatively straightforward due to its design. Here’s a brief guide:

• Choose the Location : Install the transducer under the pontoon, close to your console for easy cable routing. The back of the pontoon tubes, where brackets are often located, is an excellent spot.
• Use Existing Brackets : Utilize the brackets on the back of the pontoon tubes to mount the transducer. These provide a stable and accessible mounting point.
• Drill and Attach : Carefully drill holes into the bracket, ensuring not to damage the pontoon tube. Attach the transducer using the washer, nut, and bolt provided with your transducer kit.

By following these steps, you can successfully mount a transducer on a pontoon boat, ensuring it’s securely in place and positioned for optimal sonar performance.

For various fishfinder brands like Garmin, Lowrance, and Humminbird, common FAQs related to transducers often include:

How to test a transducer out of water?

To test a transducer out of water, power it up connected to its display unit and listen for a series of ticking or clicking sounds indicating it’s sending sonar signals. Also, feel for slight vibrations on its surface. Remember, this won’t confirm depth-reading accuracy, just that it’s operational. For a full performance test, it must be in water.

Where to mount the side imaging transducer?

The Side Imaging transducer requires careful placement due to its unique capabilities. It must have a clear ‘view’ for the side-looking beams. This means no obstructions like the hull, motor, or other transducers. You might need to tilt the motor out of the way when using it. Also, it needs to be mounted parallel to the waterline. This ensures the side imaging sonar beams point straight down and display accurately, without needing deadrise adjustment. So, choose a spot with no obstructions and where the side imaging transducer can remain level with the water.

How to fix the transducer not reading depth?

If your transducer is not reading depth correctly, follow these troubleshooting steps:

• Check Connections : Ensure the transducer is properly connected to the display unit. Loose or corroded connections can cause issues.
• Inspect for Damage : Look at the transducer for any signs of damage like cracks, pitting, or wear. Even small damages can affect performance.
• Clean the Transducer : Debris, algae, or marine growth on the transducer can interfere with its ability to send and receive signals. Clean it gently with appropriate materials.
• Verify Placement : Ensure the transducer is correctly positioned. It should be fully submerged, away from turbulence, and parallel to the waterline for accurate readings.
• Check Settings : Review the settings on your display unit. Ensure it’s on the correct frequency and the depth range is appropriately set.
• Test in Known Depths : Test the transducer in waters where the depth is known and compare. This can help determine if the issue is with the transducer or the display unit.
• Software Update : Ensure your system’s software is up to date. Manufacturers often release updates that can improve performance and fix bugs.

How to fix the transducer not reading depth while moving?

If a transom mount transducer is losing depth readings while moving and there’s no issue with the transducer itself, the problem might be due to its placement or the type of boat:

• Transom mount transducers are generally not suitable for powerboats with inboard motors or sailboats. These boat types often create conditions (like turbulence or lack of water contact at speed) where transom-mounted transducers cannot function effectively.
• If you’re losing depth or bottom at speed, the transducer may be mounted too high. At higher speeds, the water flow can cause the transducer to lose contact with the water. Lowering the transducer so that it remains in constant contact with the water even at speed can improve performance.

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Installing a transducer inside the hull – new method

OK I admit it, I probably have too many fishfinders but I wanted a screen in the cockpit for when I was drifting and couldn’t see the screens by the wheel. It was a LOT more expensive to buy a slave MFD screen for the NMEA2000 network so I opted for a standalone, low-cost fishfinder which meant I had yet another transducer to mount. I already have one transom mount and one through-hull, so I thought why not complete the set and have an in-hull mount. I have had one before with the purpose-designed Airmar P-79 tranducer mounting and that worked fine, except I wasn’t going to buy a different transducer this time. The one in the fishfinder box was a simple transom mount and these units work perfectly well mounted inside the hull unless you have something fancy like Structure Scan or Side Scan.

In my book “Angling Boats” , and on the Boat DIY page, I describe how you can stick the transom mount transducer to the hull. This method works for fairly flat hull sections but it is rather permanent and has no room for adjustment. Inspired by the new foam mounts available for kayaks, I used the same design principles but beefed up for the rigours of boat bilges.

The idea is to use a protective box stuck to the inside of the hull, and mount the transducer inside the box. No need to find a near-horizontal mounting point because this is the new and clever bit – mount the transducer in foam! A breeze to install and easily adjustable.

• Outdoor domestic electrical junction box
• Waterproof cable gland if the box didn’t come with one
• Piece of upholstery or packing foam the size of the inside of the box
• Sealant/adhesive such as Sikaflex 291i or Evo-stik Sticks Like Sh*t
• Antifreeze (optional)
• Buy your junction box at an electrical suppliers. The inside dimension needs to hold the tranducer but not any mounts, so a standard size is probably fine. Get a waterproof cable gland to fit, an exterior plastic one is fine here, no need for a fancy marine gland.
• Decide where you want to mount the transducer. On the outside of the hull there must be clean water flow with no bubbles or turbulance, and inside the hull it needs to be somewhere accessible but not in the way. You can check the best location with the test method described here. Do this under way, because any areas in turbulence won’t show up until you are moving.
• Now cut a big hole in the base of the box. The best way us to cut out the entire bottom face leaving a flange around the edge of about 5-10mm. This flange is important, it is used to make a good bond with the hull face.
• Drill a hole in the box where you want to install the gland, and screw it in.
• Degrease the area of the hull where you want to install the box.
• Glue the box to the hull with a generous quantity of  adhesive sealant applied to the flange, and press to the hull making sure plenty squidges out. Tidy it up leaving a fillet of sealant all round. Leave it to set.

• Cut a slit in the foam or cut a shape in the foam slightly smaller than the transducer.
• Feed the transducer cable through the gland from the inside.
• Put the foam in the box.
• Fit the transducer in the foam and adjust it so it sits horizontal to the water level. The foam will grip it in place.
• Tighten up the cable gland.
• Important – you need the transducer face to be in liquid to transmit signals to the hull, through it and through the water outside. This is why you needed the good seal from the box to the hull because you now need to full the box with liquid. There is so much foam in the box you won’t need much liquid. Some people use cooking oil, some use plain water, some use water with car antifreeze added. In UK waters your bilge will never freeze when afloat but when ashore it might freeze in winter, so antifreeze is worth adding.
• Screw on the lid, and job done!
• Watch for leaks, and test when under way. If you have followed these instructions it should be problem-free.

That’s all there is to it. Easy to maintain, easy to swap transducers, easy to check and adjust and the transducer is well protected from stuff that gets chucked into the bilge area!

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Gluing a Transducer Inside A Boat Hull (Glue-In Transducer)

It's time for another HawkEye Tech Tutorial! Today I’m going to demonstrate how to install a glue in transducer.

Click Here to Watch the HawkEye® Glue In Transducer Video

This transducer is suitable for vessels with the following hull types: High speed boats to increase the performance of the depth sounder . Trailer boats to prevent accidental damage to the transducer from trailering. Shallow draft boats to prevent accidental damage to the transducer from intentional or unintentional ground. NON-CORED hulls or aluminum hulls thinner than 1/8”. Inboard vessels that have a lot of running gear that creates significant acoustic noise and water turbulence. If you think that this transducer is not suitable for your vessel, contact us by phone, email or at our website and we’ll be happy to review your installation plan and offer suggestions for alternative transducer options.

Tools & supplies required for this installation are:

• A Plastic Bag
• Petroleum Jelly
• 30 Grit Sandpaper
• 2 Part, Slow Cure Epoxy
• Clean Up Rags and a Mild Cleaning Solvent

Now, let’s get started.

The most important thing to keep in mind is that transducers can only be glued inside hulls that are SOLID fiberglass or up to 1/8th” aluminum. However, since boat hulls absorb acoustic energy, transmitting through the hull reduces the transducers performance. It’s important to note that fiberglass hulls are often reinforced in places for added strength. These cored areas contain wood or structural foam which are poor sound conductors. To achieve optimal performance, find a location where the hull’s laminate is solid fiberglass and not cored.

Let’s begin by establishing a baseline for the    depth finder   readings. Anchor/Moor the vessel in a body of water away from other boat traffic. Make sure you turn off all other sonar devices on your boat and locate the vessel at least 50 feet from the nearest vessel.

Now, plug the transducer cable into the back of the depth sounder display and turn the display ON. Once the display is turned ON, it will display the test sequence and then display three-dashes. Place the transducer close to your ear (do not press up against your ear). If the transducer is properly connected it will be emitting a ticking sound (similar to a wrist watch). If you do not hear this ticking sound, recheck your connections or visit our Customer Service Center for advanced troubleshooting. Before proceeding, make sure the Keel Offset feature is turned OFF. If it’s ON, the K/O icon will be illuminated on the depth finder display. You will need to set the keel offset to zero. Now hold the transducer over the side of the vessel so that it is the same distance below the water surface as it would be at the in-hull mounting location. Note the depth that is being displayed on the Depth Sounder. Remove the transducer from the water and proceed to testing the depth readings with the transducer at the desired in-hull location.  

Method 1: Place in Plastic Bag

If the hull surface is not smooth, sand it with 30 grit sandpaper until a smooth surface is obtained. Partially fill a thin plastic bag with water, place the transducer inside and close it tightly with a tie wrap. Wet the surface of the hull and press the transducer face against the hull through the bag and check the depth reading on the display

Method 2: Set in Bilge Water

If the transducer will be located in an area in the hull that holds water, place the transducer against the hull and allow bilge water to cover the surface where the transducer touches the hull. Now check the depth reading on the display.

Method 3: Petroleum Jelly

If the hull surface is not smooth, sand it with 30 grit sandpaper until a smooth surface is obtained. Coat the face of the transducer with petroleum jelly and press it against the hull with a twisting motion. Use duct tape to hold it in place. Now check the depth reading on the display.

Now that you have the transducer temporarily affixed to the hull, it’s time to take the vessel for a test drive. Before heading out, make sure the display is functioning properly and familiarize yourself with the operation of the display.

Remove the vessel from its mooring and operate it at idle speeds while getting to know the functions and performance of the   depth sounder . Now, gradually increase the boat speed and observe the depth readings (make sure you stay in water between 2.5 and 200 feet deep). If three-dash readings appear, put the vessel in a slow turn. If the dash readings disappear when turning, the transducer’s position probably needs adjustment because it is in aerated water. If the three-dash readings do not disappear while turning, relocate the transducer using any one of the previous test methods. If following the “bilge water test method”, make sure that your three-dash readings are not caused by the bilge water flowing away from the transducer face while turning, accelerating or decelerating. 

If you are happy with the performance of the depth finder, then mark the area with a pencil or marker and proceed to Gluing the Transducer in Place.   DO NOT   proceed to the next step until you are satisfied with the readings. If you have difficulties please visit our Customer Service Center on our website or call 888- 667-2767 for technical assistance.

If during these tests three-dash readings constantly appear, then the transducer cannot be mounted inside your hull. Follow the instructions for transom mounting the transducer, or contact us and ask about exchanging your transducer for one that is more suitable for your vessel.

If during these tests three-dash readings randomly appear or the readings are noticeably different from the depth displayed when the transducer was hung over the side of the boat, you will need to find another location using the 3 methods described previously.

If the readings are satisfactory mark the spot in the hull and proceed. 

To affix the transducer to the hull use only 2-Part, Slow Cure Epoxy. Never use any adhesive or glue that is not 2 part, slow cure epoxy such as silicon sealant, weather sealants, rubbery caulks, construction adhesives, 5 minute or quick cure epoxies, rubber cements or 3M’s 4200 or 5200 adhesive sealants. Start by prepping the mounting location. All surfaces to be bonded must be smooth, clean and dry. If the hull surface is not smooth, sand it with 30 grit sandpaper until a smooth surface is obtained in an area a little larger in diameter than the length of the transducer.

Clean and dry both the selected area and the face of the transducer with a weak solvent to remove any dust, grease or oil. Prepare the adhesive as per the directions supplied with the adhesive (   DO NOT mix the epoxy on the transducer ). Apply a generous amount of adhesive to the entire face of the transducer (side opposite from the cable) and the inside of the hull. Press the transducer face onto the hull with a twisting motion to expel all air bubbles. (If the hull is slanted, temporarily secure the transducer in place with duct tape.) Allow the adhesive to cure as per the manufacturer’s instructions.

Finally, route the cable to the display mounting location and connect it to the display.

After the epoxy has dried as per the manufacturers recommendation, take the vessel for a ride. If you are not happy with the readings there are very little adjustments that you can do at this time. You will need to remove the transducer and return to Step 1 of the Glue-In Instructions.

To Remove the Transducer , place a piece of wood against the base of the transducer. Gently   “TAP”   the piece of wood with a hammer.   DO NOT   strike the transducer directly. Once the transducer is removed from the hull, sand the excess epoxy adhesive off with sandpaper ( minor sandpaper scratches will not harm the transducer ).   DO NOT   use chemicals to remove the excess epoxy

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Install A Transducer Without Holes Below The Waterline

Advertisement

Two ways to install a transducer that won't compromise your hull.

Installing a transom-mounted transducer on a piece of Starboard that is thru-bolted above the waterline prevents transom rot from occurring.

Method 1: Substitute Transom

There are alternatives to drilling a hole in your bottom for a transducer. Transom-mount transducers are common on smaller boats, but the mounting screw holes can allow water in, causing rot in the transom core. Even careful sealing will eventually fail because of the stress of running on plane. A better option uses a piece of "plastic wood" such as structural grade Starboard as a mounting point. Cut a piece long enough to extend from the bottom of the transom to a point at least six inches above the waterline, and several inches wider than the mount. Thru-bolt it to the transom using four stainless bolts. All holes should be well above the waterline and fit the bolts snugly. Dry fit everything, carefully following depth finder instructions, to be sure you've got the right fit and positioning.

Seal the transom core inside the bolt holes with epoxy resin. Use a syringe to inject the resin into the hole and a Q-tip or toothbrush to spread it around inside. Do this immediately before you insert the bolts. Seal and "glue" the board to the transom with 3M 5200 applied over the back of the board. The bottom edge of the board should be approximately 1/4- inch above the bottom of the boat and far enough above the bottom of the hull to avoid turbulence. Taper the bottom edge of the board, making it parallel to the surface of the water when running on plane. Mounting screw holes in the board now shouldn't puncture the transom; you'll have room for mistakes and the ability to add different transducers later.

— Tom Neale

Method 2: Shoot Through The Hull

If the bottom of your hull is solid fiberglass, meaning not cored, you can shoot through the hull by mounting a transducer inside the boat. I'm not a fan of epoxying a transducer directly to the inside of the hull, although it's definitely the easiest. I prefer to mount the transducer in a plastic pipe, then fix the pipe to the hull.

Fit a piece of plastic pipe to the hull where you want the transducer mounted. Put a wire brush on your drill and clean/ roughen the hull where the pipe will attach. Mount the transducer in the pipe in the same orientation you'd have it if it were hanging off the transom. Seal the mounting holes with the 5200. Leave a half-inch or so between transducer and hull.

A cottage cheese or yogurt container can make a nice bath for a shoot-through transducer if you don't have PVC pipe handy.

Swab the place of pipe attachment liberally with acetone. When dry, use 5200 to fix the pipe to the hull. Fill the pipe with water or antifreeze and you're done. If you want to keep the water/antifreeze in the pipe from evaporating, drip enough hot wax on the liquid in the pipe to seal it. I don't bother with the wax; I use water and only need to refill it once a season. Don't like the spot? Tear up the pipe, clean up the 5200 on the hull with the wire brush, and try another place.

— Jeff Nicolas

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How to Install a Boat Transducer Mounting Plate | Easy DIY

Kyle peterson.

• Mar 24, 2021

The product recommendations on our site are independently chosen by our editors. When you click through our links, we may earn a commission. 

Professional boat rigger, Andy Kratochvil, of fishlectronics  performs a detailed DIY install of a typical fish finder transducer mounting plate. He covers where to place the mounting plate based on hull design considerations, key supplies and tools, as well as a few other tips to ensure the job is done right.

• MOUNTING PLATE – Rig Rite Horizontal Transducer Mounting Plate
• MARINE-GRADE SILICONE
• CORDLESS DRILL – #2 slotted drill tip
• METAL DRILL BIT – 9/64th for the featured product (read product packaging for correct size)

Transducer mounting plates allow for the quick addition and adjustment of transducers with only 2 holes drilled into the boat transom. Fewer holes mean less damage to the transom and reduced chances for leaking. Perhaps most importantly, you gain significant room and range to reposition transducers vertically and laterally to seek optimal fish finder readouts.

BOAT SETUP AS SHOWN

• BOAT – Lund 2075 Pro-V Bass XS (extra seating) Bass Boat
• ENGINE –  Mercury Pro XS 250hp Outboard
• JACK PLATE – T-H Marine Atlas Hydraulic Jack Plate , 10-inch setback

Kyle is the resident adventurer with an adept eye for a good shot and the training and expertise to bring a lot of dynamic content to Wired2fish videos. His underwater footage and aerial photography help set Wired2fish’s content apart from the masses. He’s an avid freshwater angler adept at catching a lot of different kinds of fish in a lot of different ways and places.

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How to Install a Transducer on Different Boat Models

To install a transducer, start by choosing a transom mounting location that minimizes turbulence. For speedboats and fishing boats, clean the area and secure the bracket with marine-grade sealant. Alumacraft boats might need custom brackets, while pontoons require drilling pilot holes near the stern. Route the cable along the hull, securing with clamps, and guarantee tight electrical connections using shrink tubing. Test the transducer by turning on the fish finder and verifying clear readings at various speeds. Inspect and troubleshoot for signal integrity issues. Keep learning for detailed steps and maintenance tips specific to different boat models.

Choosing the Right Transducer

Selecting the right transducer is crucial because it directly affects the accuracy and performance of your fish-finding or depth-measuring equipment. When you’re ready to install a transducer, you need to take into account the type of boat you own.

Let’s provide step-by-step instructions on installing transducers on various types of boats, including Lund, Tracker, and Alumacraft.

For Lund boats, make sure the transducer is mounted at the stern, away from any turbulence caused by the hull or propeller. Use a transom mount bracket for a secure fit. Common challenges include finding a flat spot on the hull and avoiding interference from the engine.

Tracker boats often have a more straightforward installation process. Mount the transducer on the transom, making sure it’s parallel to the waterline. Be cautious of the hull’s curvature; a slight angle can affect reading accuracy.

Alumacraft boats may require custom brackets due to their unique hull designs. Use a leveling tool to confirm the transducer is correctly aligned. You might face challenges with securing the cables; use cable ties and adhesive mounts for a clean setup.

Preparing Your Tools

Gather all necessary tools to guarantee a smooth and efficient transducer installation process. Start by ensuring you have a power drill with a set of drill bits suitable for both metal and fiberglass.

A tape measure is essential for accurate placement, while a pencil or marker helps mark drilling points. A socket set and screwdriver set are essential for tightening bolts and screws securely.

You’ll need marine-grade sealant to prevent water ingress around the mounting holes. Have a pair of safety glasses and gloves to protect yourself during drilling and handling materials. Don’t forget cable ties and clamps to manage and secure any wiring.

If your installation requires through-hull mounting, a hole saw bit that matches the transducer’s size is necessary. For transom mounts, a backing plate may be needed to provide additional support, so keep one handy along with the appropriate mounting hardware.

Lastly, have a multimeter ready to check electrical connections, and keep a bucket of water nearby to test the transducer once installed.

Speedboat Installation Steps

With your tools organized and ready, let’s begin the installation process on your speedboat by identifying the best mounting location for the transducer. Ideally, you want to choose a spot on the transom, below the waterline, where the transducer will have a clear, unobstructed view of the water. Make sure it’s away from any turbulence created by the propeller and other fittings.

Next, clean the area thoroughly to guarantee a strong bond. Use a marine-grade sealant around the mounting holes to prevent water intrusion. Drill pilot holes carefully, matching the size of the screws provided with the transducer.

Now, attach the transducer bracket to the transom, guaranteeing it’s level. Secure the transducer to the bracket, making adjustments so it’s parallel to the waterline. Tighten all screws firmly but avoid over-tightening to prevent cracking.

Route the transducer cable carefully, avoiding any sharp edges or moving parts. Use cable ties to secure it along the path to your fish finder or chart plotter.

Connect the cable to the display unit, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Finally, test the installation by powering up the unit and confirming the transducer’s functionality in the water.

Fishing Boat Installation Steps

To install a transducer on your fishing boat, start by selecting a location on the transom that guarantees minimal turbulence and a clear view of the water. This guarantees accurate readings and reduces interference. Clean the chosen area thoroughly to remove any dirt or debris that could impact the adhesive’s bond.

Next, mark the spots for drilling. Ensure the transducer is level and angled correctly to avoid skewed data. Drill pilot holes for the screws, being careful not to penetrate too deeply and damage the hull. Use marine-grade sealant around the holes to prevent water ingress.

Secure the transducer bracket to the transom using stainless steel screws. Hand-tighten them initially, then use a wrench for a final secure fit. Route the transducer cable along the hull, making sure it’s protected from sharp edges and moving parts.

• Cable Management: Utilize zip ties and cable clips to secure the cable and prevent tangling.
• Sealant Application: Apply a generous amount of marine sealant around the screws and cable entry points to guarantee watertight seals.
• Testing: Power up your fishfinder and test the transducer in the water to confirm proper installation and functionality.

Following these steps will ensure your transducer performs effectively on your fishing boat.

Pontoon Boat Installation Steps

Unlike fishing boats, installing a transducer on a pontoon boat requires addressing the dual-hull structure to guarantee the best placement and performance. First, you need to determine the best location, which is typically near the rear of one of the pontoons. Make sure the chosen spot is below the waterline to maintain a clear signal.

Next, clean the mounting area thoroughly to remove any debris or contaminants that could impact adhesion. Use a straightedge to verify the surface is flat, as an uneven surface can lead to inaccurate readings.

After preparing the surface, drill pilot holes for the mounting screws. Be cautious to avoid damaging the pontoon. Apply a marine-grade sealant around the holes to prevent water intrusion. Secure the transducer bracket with stainless steel screws, ensuring a firm and stable fit.

Then, route the transducer cable along the pontoon, securing it with cable clamps to prevent movement and potential damage. Make sure to leave enough slack for adjustments.

Mounting Techniques

Selecting the right mounting technique guarantees your transducer performs at its best and withstands harsh marine conditions. First, consider the hull type of your boat. For fiberglass hulls, thru-hull mounts are ideal as they provide a direct line of sight to the water. Make sure you choose a location free from turbulence and other obstructions. This method requires drilling a hole through the hull, so precision is essential.

For aluminum or other metal hulls, transom mounts are more common. They offer the advantage of easy installation and adjustment. Position the transducer slightly below the hull and to the side of the propeller to avoid interference. Use stainless steel screws to secure the bracket, and apply marine-grade sealant to prevent leaks.

If you own a kayak or small boat, consider using an in-hull mount. This technique doesn’t require drilling and keeps the transducer safe from external damage. Make sure the installation area inside the hull is smooth and free from air bubbles by using epoxy or silicone adhesive.

Thru-Hull Mounts: Ideal for fiberglass hulls; requires precise drilling.

Transom Mounts: Common for metal hulls; easy to install and adjust.

In-Hull Mounts: Ideal for small boats; no drilling needed.

These methods ensure effective performance and longevity.

Wiring the Transducer

Connecting the transducer to your boat’s electrical system demands meticulous attention to detail to guarantee peak performance and reliability. Start by identifying the power source, typically the boat’s battery or a designated power distribution panel. Use marine-grade wiring to make sure of durability and resistance to corrosion.

It’s vital to run the power cable from the transducer to the power source, keeping it separate from other electrical wiring to avoid interference.

Next, connect the transducer’s power wire to the positive terminal of your chosen power source and the ground wire to the negative terminal. Utilize crimp connectors with heat shrink tubing for secure, moisture-resistant connections. Ensure all wire connections are tight and insulated properly.

Route the cable carefully, securing it with cable ties and ensuring it doesn’t interfere with moving parts or sharp edges. Avoid bending the cable sharply as this can damage the internal wires.

Finally, connect the transducer’s signal cable to your fish finder or chart plotter, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Double-check all connections for tightness and correct polarity before powering up the system.

Proper wiring guarantees your transducer operates efficiently and delivers accurate readings.

Testing the Installation

With the transducer wired and all connections double-checked, it’s time to test the installation to validate everything functions correctly. Start by turning on your fish finder or depth sounder. Confirm the display powers up and initializes without errors. Once the device is operational, head out to the water to perform the actual testing.

First, observe the screen for clear and accurate readings. Move the boat at various speeds to verify the transducer maintains signal integrity. Guarantee there’s no interference or signal loss.

Next, check the depth readings against known depths. You can do this by:

• Comparing the transducer readings to a nautical chart.
• Measuring the depth manually using a weighted line.
• Cross-referencing with another depth sounder, if available.

Confirm the transducer’s sensitivity by detecting underwater structures or fish. Adjust the device settings if necessary to improve clarity and accuracy.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

When you encounter issues with your transducer, start by systematically checking for common problems to quickly identify and resolve them.

First, inspect the installation for any loose connections. Loose wiring can result in intermittent signal loss. Make sure all cables are securely fastened and free from corrosion.

Next, check the transducer’s position. If it’s mounted too high or too low, you’ll experience inaccurate readings. Refer to the manufacturer’s guidelines for the best placement. Guarantee the transducer is level and parallel to the waterline to avoid skewed data.

Also, examine the transducer’s surface for marine growth or debris. Even a small amount can interfere with signal transmission. Clean the surface with a soft cloth and mild detergent to ensure unobstructed signal flow.

If the issue persists, verify the power supply. A weak or inconsistent power source can cause erratic performance. Use a multimeter to check the voltage at the connection points.

Maintenance Tips

Regular maintenance of your transducer is crucial to guaranteeing peak performance and longevity. Start by inspecting the transducer for any signs of physical damage, such as cracks or abrasions.

Clean the transducer regularly to remove marine growth and debris, which can impair its functionality. Use a soft cloth and a mild detergent to avoid scratching the sensitive surface.

Here are three critical maintenance tips:

• Check Connections: Regularly inspect all wiring and connections. Corroded or loose connections can lead to inaccurate readings or complete failure.
• Software Updates: Make sure your transducer’s software is up to date. Manufacturers often release updates that can enhance performance or fix bugs.
• Alignment: Verify that the transducer remains properly aligned. Misalignment can distort data and reduce accuracy.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can a transducer be installed on a kayak or inflatable boat.

Yes, you can install a transducer on a kayak or an inflatable boat. For a kayak, use a transducer arm or a hull-mounted transducer with marine adhesive. For an inflatable boat, consider a suction cup mount or a portable transducer bracket.

Make sure the transducer is submerged and free from obstructions for best performance. Always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for specific installation instructions and recommendations.

What Materials Are Best for a DIY Transducer Mounting Bracket?

When crafting a DIY transducer mounting bracket, you’ll want materials that are durable and corrosion-resistant. Stainless steel and marine-grade aluminum are excellent choices for strength and longevity.

Use high-quality, UV-resistant plastic for lightweight parts. Make sure you have stainless steel screws and marine-grade adhesive to secure everything.

These materials will keep your transducer stable and functional in harsh marine environments.

How Does Transducer Placement Affect Fish-Finding Accuracy?

Transducer placement directly impacts fish-finding accuracy. If you mount it too high, you’ll miss essential underwater details, while placing it too low can cause turbulence and inaccurate readings.

Ideally, position it in a spot with minimal water disturbance, away from propellers and hull irregularities. Make sure it’s level and parallel to the waterline for best performance.

Proper placement maximizes sonar efficiency, giving you reliable data for successful fishing.

Are Wireless Transducers a Viable Option for All Boat Types?

When evaluating wireless transducers for your boat, it’s crucial to assess your specific needs. They offer easy installation and flexibility, eliminating the need for cable routing.

However, larger boats or those with metal hulls might experience signal interference or range issues. Evaluate your boat’s size, hull material, and typical usage to determine if a wireless transducer will meet your requirements effectively.

Can Transducers Interfere With Other Onboard Electronic Devices?

Yes, transducers can interfere with other onboard electronic devices. You should always verify the frequency and power output of your transducer.

Place it away from other sensitive equipment to minimize interference. Use shielding or filters if necessary. Guarantee proper grounding and avoid running transducer cables parallel to other wiring.

Regularly test your setup to confirm all devices operate without any signal disruption.

By following these steps tailored to your boat model, you’ll guarantee a successful transducer installation.

Always double-check your wiring connections, securely mount the transducer, and test its functionality on the water.

Don’t forget regular maintenance to keep it in top condition.

If you encounter issues, refer to the troubleshooting section for quick fixes.

With proper installation, you’ll get accurate readings and enhance your boating experience.

Now, you’re ready to make the most of your marine electronics!

Copyright © 2023 Fishing Specialties Inc - All Rights Reserved. - patents pending on several products

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• The iboats forum moderators would like to mention to all the iboaters here that we’re sorry but the website server seems to be running on half a cylinder and in order to post pictures, etc. you may have to use an outside hosting source, which we understand is not ideal, but its all we got at present. We are hoping that the administration can rectify this issue soon, but unfortunately at this time we can make no promises as to when... we have been working on letting the higher powers that be 'know of the situation... hang in there iboaters, we've been through a lot over the years and this is just another rough weather system rolling through to endure is all. Thank you.
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Inside the Hull Installation using Transom Mount Transducer

• Thread starter JoeW80
• Start date May 30, 2011
• May 30, 2011

I bought a Humminbird 597CI with a transom-mount transducer but I would like to install it inside the hull. It says in the instructions it can be done and I've read other posts from people saying they have done it. Question : Is there a noticeable performance difference between using the transom-mount transducer inside the hull and using a puck transducer that is specifically intended for this type of installation? Dilemma : I don't want to wait for an exchange if there is no benefit and I can't exchange the transducer after installing. Additional Info : I am normally in the bays with shallow depths between 3 and 35 feet. My boat is a 20ft. C-Hawk with speeds up to 30MPH.  

Supreme Mariner

• May 31, 2011

Re: Inside the Hull Installation using Transom Mount Transducer Yes, there is a noticeable degradation of performance in the shoot thru installation. The accuracy is not affected as much as the sensitivity of the unit. At issue, loss of power (signal), a frequency shift of the sonar beams it passes thru the fiberglass, and the typical junk installation of the puck. i.e. puck not perpendicular to the bottom, air bubbles in epoxy, etc. Good shoot thru installations use a ?wet tank? installation to minimize signal loss. If you want to know how deep the water is, then go for it. If you want the best sensitivity you can get out of the unit then go with the transom mount or better yet, a thru hull installation. BTW: Cranking up the gain/filter is not a solution for signal loss. All your doing is introducing even more "noise" into the mix.  

• Jun 1, 2011

Re: Inside the Hull Installation using Transom Mount Transducer Thanks for the info but I really wanted to know more about the transducer itself instead of the installation. In a shoot thru installation, is there any benefit in using a puck transducer rather than using a transducer that is meant for transom-mount? I read somewhere that a puck transducer has higher sensitivity, but I don't know the technical details.  

• Jun 2, 2011

JoeW80 said: In a shoot thru installation, is there any benefit in using a puck transducer rather than using a transducer that is meant for transom-mount? I read somewhere that a puck transducer has higher sensitivity, but I don't know the technical details. Click to expand...

Rear Admiral

Re: Inside the Hull Installation using Transom Mount Transducer I have never heard of a transducer element improvement in the puck style. Depending on the particular transom transducer, the puck style maybe smaller or flatter and would be less prone to poor through transom mounting. Through hull is generally used when boat speeds get high where transom mounts become very problematic at tracking bottom. At your speed, that shouldn't be an issue. As dingbat says, you suffer some signal loss with through hull. I'd transom mount in your case.  

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Best Boat Trolling Motor Features for Saltwater Fishing

• By Ric Burnley
• August 21, 2024

The trolling motor was invented in 1934, but the first saltwater models didn’t hit the water until a decade ago. Why did it take almost 90 years for the trolling motor to reach coastal anglers? Durability. Combining saltwater, metal and electricity is a recipe for corrosion-forming electrolysis. Freshwater trolling motors died in salt and early saltwater models struggled to survive. 

The latest generation of saltwater trolling motors feature durable components and smart design to thrive in the harsh marine environment. Leading the way, Garmin’s Force Kraken trolling motor is built with tough components and advanced features for the ultimate in boat control to catch more fish.

What Is a Trolling Motor for Saltwater Fishing?

The first trolling motors were small electric kickers that attached to the stern of a jon boat. Bass anglers quickly realized the advantage of mounting an electric motor on the bow to silently maneuver the boat while fishing. Before long, a trolling motor was standard equipment on a bass sled. But the technology has been slow to reach saltwater. 

A trolling motor is a small electric motor on a long shaft powered by large, rechargeable batteries. The shaft is mounted on the boat to hold the motor below the water. Using a hand control, remote control or foot pedal, I direct the motor to position the boat with more accuracy than possible with a gas outboard. With a trolling motor, I can silently troll for skittish fish, sneak into shallow water, patrol an area, maneuver handsfree and hold my boat in one position while I fish. 

Trolling Motor Innovations

Modern trolling motors have some amazing features. The most significant advancement is connecting the trolling motor to a GPS network. With the satellite location information, I can program my trolling motor to follow a course, repeat a course, return to a location, jog at a low speed, and more. When I push the anchor lock button, the GPS manipulates the trolling motor so my boat stays in one position. 

Manufacturers have focused on durability and power improvements to bring the technology to saltwater anglers. To survive salt and sand that plagues coastal fishing equipment, saltwater trolling motors like Garmin’s Force Kraken use corrosion-resistant materials, redundant systems, and sealed electronics. 

The next challenge was generating power to pull a large saltwater fishing boat in strong current and wind. To produce enough torque to move heavy boats, the best saltwater trolling motors use brushless motors that draw less electricity and create more power. Garmin’s Force Kraken can produce up to 100 foot pounds of thrust with a shaft length up to 90 inches to run boats up to 35 feet long.

With the invention of forward-facing and 360 sonar, the trolling motor has become a convenient place to mount the sonar transducer. Attaching the transducer to the motor head, I can turn the transducer to direct the signal at potential targets while watching the return on a multi-function display.

Speaking of the fish finder display, Garmin’s Force Kraken trolling motor uses wireless connection to integrate with Garmin’s electronics systems. I control the Kraken with a handheld remote control, wireless foot pedal, smartphone or smartwatch. Combining these user-friendly features with a durable electric motor large and powerful enough to fish offshore and inshore, Garmin’s Force Kraken is a perfect example of the capabilities of modern saltwater trolling motors.

8 Top Saltwater Fishing Electric Trolling Motor Features 

Adding GPS control and forward-facing sonar completely changed the trolling motor game. The small electric motors are now a boat control and fish-finding weapon. With the Garmin Force Kraken and other modern trolling motors, I program routes, hold my boat in one place, search fish in every direction and fish all day without worrying about battery power. Today’s trolling motors have a long list of features aimed at making fishing easier and more fun.

Anchor Deployment Capabilities

Without a doubt, the Garmin Force Kraken’s virtual anchor is its most valuable feature. I push a button on the remote and the trolling motor works to hold the boat in place. Garmin’s Force Kraken uses a two band GPS for pinpoint accuracy and lightning fast steering response. 

Most trolling motors spin the motor 360 degrees to move the boat forward and backward. Instead of turning the whole motor, The Force Kraken uses a reverse gear which creates less turbulence and responds quicker saving time and energy. In swift current and strong wind, the Force Kraken controls my boat without missing a beat. 

Garmin LiveScope Compatibility

In addition to advanced boat control capabilities, Garmin’s Force Kraken and other top-end trolling motors offer me a place to mount my forward facing sonar transducer. Forward-facing and 360 sonar allow me to see fish and structure in every direction below the water. The transducer turns 360 degrees to search for fish and structure up to 200 feet from the boat. 

Some anglers mount the transducer to the end of a pole that is attached to a bracket on the side of the boat. Garmin’s Force Kraken allows me to mount the LiveScope transducer on the motor. To direct the sonar signal, I turn the trolling motor in the direction I’m searching. I route the transducer cable through the trolling motor shaft for a clean install and less chance of damaging the cord.

Battery Performance

Battery performance is a trolling motor’s Achilles heel. The electric motor runs on large batteries with limited capacity. Sealed lead-acid marine batteries are the standard; lithium batteries are lighter and more durable with longer battery life. 

To extend the battery life, Garmin’s Force Kraken’s brushless motor conserves energy and produces more power than a brushed motor. Also, the efficient propeller and reverse gear reduce the motor’s work load. Running off 36 volts (that’s three 12 volt batteries), the Kraken will produce 100 pounds of thrust for hours of fishing. 

User-Friendly Remote and Foot Pedal Control

A trolling motor is all about boat control, so controlling the motor is key to catching more fish. Garmin’s Force Kraken offers a floating, wireless remote control, a wireless foot pedal or integration with a smartphone or smartwatch. I can even operate the motor with my fish finder display. 

The best trolling motor remotes have large, intuitive buttons and a small LED display of motor information. To operate the motor while I’m casting my fishing rod, a wireless foot pedal promotes hands-free fishing. 

If the wireless systems fail, I can still control the motor with my phone. A few basic features, like anchor lock, are accessible on the base of the motor. When I’m searching for fish, I use the foot-pedal to cast and retrieve while covering water. 

The handheld remote gives me quick access to anchor lock and other programming features. To unlock the motor’s full potential, I use the app and wireless connection to my fish finder to program routes and make precise location adjustments.

When the current is ripping and the wind is whipping, a trolling motor struggles to control a big boat. Garmin Force Kraken has a Turbo Mode that increases the power and torque for short periods when I need it most. Kicking the motor into Turbo Mode helps me limit power usage by saving maximum speed for the toughest motoring conditions. 

Minimal Prop Wash and Obstruction Quick Reverse

A trolling motor quietly maneuvers the boat while I’m fishing. To prevent spooking the fish, Garmin’s Force Kraken combines an optimized propeller and silent operation. The propeller creates minimal bubbles and no cavitation and the shaft turns smoothly. When the boat is in anchor lock mode, the propeller spins forward and reverse instead of the shaft constantly spinning to keep the boat in one place.

Pivot Style Mount

Most saltwater boats don’t have a wide open deck in the bow like a bass boat. Garmin’s Force Kraken uses a small pivot style mount to secure the motor with a minimal footprint. 

When I arrive to the fishing grounds, I rotate the shaft to unlock the release and then slide and pivot the motor head into the water. The pivot mount is easy to remove from the boat and requires less space in the bow, so it fits more saltwater boats. 

Composite Shaft

A long shaft on a large saltwater boat takes a lot of abuse. In rough seas, the powerful motor wants to bend and break the shaft. Saltwater trolling motors have an indestructible and corrosion resistant composite shaft. The best saltwater trolling motors, like Garmin’s Force Kraken, have a shaft that includes a conduit to route a fish finder transducer cable.

The final choice is choosing the shaft length. The trolling motor’s composite shaft reaches from the bow to below the water. Measure the distance and choose a shaft length that will keep the motor below the water in rough seas. An easy-to-use online tutorial makes it easy to build a total boat system. 

Garmin’s Force Kraken is available in four sizes, from 48 inches to 90 inches, to cover boats from 18 feet to 35 feet long. The price at Bass Pro Shops depends on the shaft length, with a 48-inch model going for $3799.99 to $4299.99 for the 90-inch motor.

Alternatives to the Garmin Force Kraken

It’s a good time to be in the market for a trolling motor. The most advanced technology is now available for saltwater trolling motors with up to 115-pounds of thrust and a 100-inch shaft. And the latest motors are finally winning the battle against corrosion with space-age materials and design. The race is on to create the most advanced trolling motor that is easiest to use. All this is great news for saltwater anglers looking to add a trolling motor to their boat.

Heavy Duty: Power-Pole Move PV

Power-Pole’s primary objective when they designed their first trolling motor was durability. They satisfied that objective with a bulletproof brushless motor, reinforced propeller, titanium shaft and redundant systems. 

The Move PV is part of Power-Pole’s total boat control system to link with their shallow-water anchors to stop and propel the boat with one remote. Of course, the Move includes all the advanced GPS features expected of a top-of-the-line trolling motor.

Price: $5599.99 – 72”

Budget Friendly: MotorGuide Xi5

MotorGuide’s Xi5 is a classic saltwater trolling motor that provides advanced features at a great value. I control the Xi5 with a handheld remote or wireless foot pedal. The trolling motor integrates with Lowrance, Simrad and Mercury Marine electronics. A pin-point accurate GPS allows me to jog the boat, follow a course and lock the boat in position. The Xi5 has been around for years, a testament to its durable composite shaft, sealed electronics and corrosion-resistant coatings.

Price: $2549.99 – 72”

Big Boats: Minn Kota Riptide Instinct Quest

Minn Kota started the trolling motor game and stays ahead of the competition with the largest and most powerful trolling motors. With shafts up to 100 inches and 115 foot-pounds of thrust, the Riptide Instinct Quest motor is appropriate for boats over 35 feet long. Minn Kota’s Riptide Instinct Quest includes a brushless motor , GPS control, electronics integration and power-saving features expected in a premium trolling motor for saltwater. 

Price: $4699.99 – 72”

Elevate Your Fishing With Advanced Trolling Motor Features

Trolling motors for saltwater are more powerful and durable than ever before. I use my trolling motor to troll, power drift, fish structure and silently search for fish. Trolling motors may be new to saltwater fishing, but the advanced boat-control features make me wonder how I ever lived without a trolling motor on my saltwater boat.

What is the difference between a trolling motor and an outboard motor?

A trolling motor is a small electric motor used to maneuver the boat while fishing. A gas-powered outboard quickly propels the boat to and from the fishing grounds. The trolling motor is less powerful and slower, but the motor spins 360 degrees so I can turn the boat quickly and accurately without the noise and commotion of a gas engine. I use my gas motor to travel to my fishing spot, then I turn off the outboard and drop the trolling motor into the water. With the small electric motor, I precisely position the boat to cast or jig more accurately. 

How do I know what size trolling motor I need?

Each trolling motor manufacturer has online tutorials and guides for choosing and fitting a trolling motor to any boat. The rule of thumb is a longer and heavier boat requires more thrust and a longer shaft.

How fast can a troll motor go?

A trolling motor isn’t designed for speed. However, a trolling motor must have enough power and torque to control the boat in adverse weather and water conditions. Garmin’s Force Kraken has a special Turbo Mode that boosts power when the going gets rough. It also uses a silent and responsive steering unit and a unique reverse gear to improve boat control and save battery power.

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DMV’s El Centro Office Temporarily Closed for Remediation

Contact:  Office of Public Affairs 2415 First Avenue Sacramento, CA 95818 (916) 657–6437 |  [email protected]

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE August 27, 2024

Sacramento – The California Department of Motor Vehicles is alerting customers that the El Centro office at 233 N. Imperial Ave. has closed temporarily for remediation. A reopening date has not yet been determined.

Until the remediation is complete, customers can visit the Brawley office at 173 W. Main St. (about 14 miles away) for in-person services.

Before Going to an Office – Try Online First!

The DMV has taken many steps to offer additional digital services. Most DMV tasks do not require an office visit, including simple self-service transactions that are no longer available in offices. The DMV encourages customers to use its  online services  and other service channels to complete transactions, including eligible driver’s license and vehicle registration renewals. Customers can also use the  Service Advisor  on the DMV website to learn their options to complete DMV tasks.

To sign up for paperless vehicle registration and driver’s license renewal notices, customers must sign in or create a secure online account at  dmv.ca.gov  and then opt in.

Sign up to receive the latest DMV News Alerts:  DMV NEWS ALERTS – California DMV

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How safe are luxury yachts? What to know after Mike Lynch yacht disaster left 7 dead

The Bayesian was a world-class yacht.

The 19th largest yacht designed by luxury Italian manufacturer Perini , it boasted a sleek interior design by French designer Remi Tessier, a double engine, and one of the tallest aluminum masts in the world. It won multiple awards, including for "best sailing yacht" the year after its release.

But, almost two weeks ago on Aug. 19, the luxurious vessel sank to the bottom of the ocean off the coast of Sicily in an internationally-followed disaster, dumping 22 people aboard into the water and leaving seven dead , including British tech magnate Mike Lynch and his 18-year-old daughter Hannah .

"The impossible happened on that boat," Giovanni Costantino, the yacht manufacturer's CEO, told Reuters.

In the wake of the disaster, an ongoing investigation into possible criminal errors committed by the Bayesian's crew and lingering questions surrounding its design underscore the need for proper yacht safety measures and practical ship designs, according to experts.

Italian prosecutors from a nearby town have now widened their investigation into possible criminal actions by the ship's captain in the lead-up to the shipwreck to include two additional crew members, a judicial source told Reuters on Wednesday.

Tim Parker Eaton and Matthew Griffith are now under investigation for manslaughter and shipwreck, days after news broke that investigators are probing whether Captain James Cutfield committed the same crimes.

Authorities are looking into whether Parker Eaton, a ship engineer, failed to protect the ship's engine room and operating systems. Griffith, a sailor on the ship, was on watch duty on the morning the ship sank.

Cutfield "exercised his right to remain silent" when investigators interrogated him on Tuesday, Giovanni Rizzuti, his lawyer, told Reuters.

"First, he's very worn out," Rizzuti said. "Second, we were appointed only on Monday, and for a thorough and correct defense case, we need to acquire a set of data that at the moment we don't have."

Rizzuti did not immediately respond to a request for comment emailed to him by USA TODAY.

Rescuers found the bodies of Chris Morvillo, an American citizen and lawyer for Clifford Chance, his wife, Neda Morvillo, Jonathan Bloomer, a non-executive chair of Morgan Stanley International, and his wife, Judy Bloomer, inside the ship two days after the wreck. Recaldo Thomas, the ship's cook who also went by Ricardo, was the first person pronounced dead in the disaster – his body was recovered on the day of the sinking.

Captains must follow safety procedures before storms

Costantino chalked up the boat's fate to a "series of indescribable, unreasonable errors" committed by the crew. The ship's crew made an "incredible mistake" in not preparing adequately for the storm, he said.

Costantino said the crew should have summoned passengers from their rooms earlier, as the storm picked up. The keel, a heavy weight under the ship to counterbalance the ship's large mast, should have been lowered, and portholes should have been closed – both factors that could influence whether the captain is found culpable, according to experts .

Captains should always check weather forecasts and look into local weather patterns, Mitchell Stoller, a maritime expert witness and captain, told USA TODAY . When in stormy weather, captains should also weigh anchor, so that a ship can float over unstable waters, he added.

"The general standard of care in this situation is to monitor the weather, exercise caution, have a night watch, have the engine going, ready to maneuver," he said.

More: Even heroes need a vacation: What to expect from the Disney Destiny cruise ship

Wealthy clients push for impractical designs, expert says

Costantino said the ship's design and construction was error-free. But one yacht design expert disagrees.

"There's so many other factors, and this huge, complex boat is part of it," said Tad Roberts, a British Columbia-based yacht designer who has worked in the industry for nearly 40 years.

The Bayesian's giant mast is part of a trend of bigger and bigger yachts, according to Roberts. He worked on the design of the Asolare, formerly the Scheherazade – at 154 feet long, the largest cold-molded sailing yacht in the world when it was released in 2003, according to its manufacturer, Hodgdon Yacht Services. "It's small today," Roberts added.

Roberts said problems emerge when yacht designers can't say no to wealthy clients' demands for more and more extravagant and overgrown designs.

"The clients are wealthy people. They are very used to getting whatever it is they want," he said.

But owners' requests can compromise security, he said.

"Owners are not naval architects," he said. "They don't understand the issues involved, and trying to explain to them may or may not work, but there are compromises being made all the time."

Yacht buyers are more likely to get a better boat than they would 50 years ago, since yachts are exported and built towards international standards, he said. Still, the worsening effects of climate change and extreme weather are growing risks to anyone sailing the high seas, he added.

"Be aware. That's the biggest part of it," he said. "There's a possibility that things could go bad, that there is risk involved."

More: Investigators seek answers to why luxury superyacht Bayesian sank in storm

Yacht owners install million-dollar, AI-powered security systems

Piracy on yachts is even rarer than sudden storms – only two cases were reported between 2019 and 2023, according to the International Maritime Bureau's Piracy Reporting Centre . Still, superyacht owners are investing in James Bond-esque technology in an effort to protect their vessels.

"There's definitely increased concern," said Frederik Giepmans, managing director of safety and security at MARSS, a technology company that offers high-tech surveillance and security systems for superyachts with a price tag "from the hundreds of thousands into millions," he said.

NiDAR, a software program manufactured by MARSS to provide protection for superyachts, can pick up on objects approaching a yacht from the air or water "while underway, at anchor and in port," according to the company's website.

The surveillance system uses artificial intelligence and machine learning to handle data from sensors monitoring all sides of a vessel. The AI system provides "constant, long range monitoring of the air, of the surface, of the underwater, to try and give the crew as much response time as possible," said Giepmans.

That way, yacht owners can pick up on any manner of approaching objects, from "small, fast craft approaching on the surface" to divers and submarines under the water.

But if a threat is detected, a yacht owner's "options to respond are limited," Giepmans said. "You can get out of the way. You can bring people to safety. But, for instance, a more military response is not available to you."

Giepmans pointed to a recent increase in attacks on commercial ships, like attacks carried out by Houthi rebels on ships cruising through the Red Sea. "There's a gap there in terms of security," he said. "Because there isn't really, right now, a way for commercial or private clients, to respond, perhaps, in an appropriate way to these threats."

Luxury yacht owners cruising off the coast of Monaco, for instance, shouldn't be as concerned about a direct threat to their security, as compared with boats sailing through other locations, he said. "It really depends on that, as to what extent they will go to protect their ship."

The greater danger could come from adverse weather events, as the planet warms every year.

Meteorologists have pointed to a water spout, a tornado that spun up over the water amid the storm that hit the Bayesian, as a possible factor in its wreck.

Water temperatures in the area were more than three degrees higher than average that day, the perfect conditions for the spout to form and the likely result of climate change, Rick Shema, a certified consulting meteorologist and former member of the Navy, previously told USA TODAY.

"The water spout was an uncommon occurrence. But again, these things happen, especially in warmer water," he said.

Contributing: Reuters

Cybele Mayes-Osterman is a breaking news reporter for USA Today. Reach her on email at [email protected]. Follow her on X @CybeleMO.