rc boat catamaran hull plans

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14+ DIY Remote Control (RC) Boat Plans [FREE]

My nephew and I had been wanting to build a remote control boat for a while. We finally got around to it one weekend, and it was a lot of fun.

Table of Contents

We started by choosing the right boat. We wanted something small and easy to control, so we went with a basic monohull design. We also chose an electric motor, since they’re less powerful but easier to use and maintain.

The next step was to choose the right battery. We went with a sealed lead acid battery, since they’re cheap but have shorter run times.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Max Imagination (@max.imagination)

Once we had the boat assembled, we took it out for a test run on our local lake. The boat performed well, and my nephew had a blast steering it around.

We’ll definitely be going out again soon to enjoy some more time on the water.

Making remote control boats is a fun and rewarding hobby. The boat and its remote controls can be quickly built as a single project. This DIY project can be done by almost all people, even those that do not have any building experience.

To turn this project into something extraordinary, the internals of the watercraft need to be mechanically designed and built with care to ensure durability.

DIY Remote Control Boat Ideas & Designs

1. home-made remote control boat.

If you’re thinking of making a remote control boat, there are a few things you need to consider. The first is the size of the boat. You’ll need to take into account the dimensions of your pond or lake, as well as the wind conditions. If you’re going to be sailing in open water, you’ll need a larger boat that can handle choppy conditions.

2. Remote Control Boat With Fusion360

The second factor is the type of motor. There are two main types of motors for remote control boats: electric and gasoline. Gasoline motors are more powerful, but they’re also more expensive and require more maintenance. Electric motors are less powerful but easier to use and maintain.

3. Remote Control Knex Boat

The third factor is the type of battery. Again, there are two main types: sealed lead acid (SLA) and lithium ion (Li-ion). SLA batteries are cheaper but have shorter run times, while Li-ion batteries are more expensive but have longer run times. When choosing a battery, you’ll need to take into account how long you want to be able to run your boat for.

4. Remote Control Airboats for Kids

Finally, you need to consider the type of controller you’ll use. There are two main types: radio controlled (RC) and infrared (IR). RC controllers use radio waves to communicate with the boat, while IR controllers use infrared light. IR controllers are typically cheaper, but they have shorter range than RC controllers.

5. Building a Self-Driving Boat

Radio-controlled (RC) boats are a fun and exciting hobby for people of all ages. Whether you’re interested in racing or simply exploring the waterways, there’s an RC boat out there that’s perfect for you. But with so many different types and models to choose from, how do you know which one is right for your needs?

6. DIY Arduino Catamaran

One of the most important things to consider is the size of the boat. RC boats come in a variety of sizes, from small bathtub toys to full-sized racing hulls. If you’re just starting out, it’s probably best to choose a smaller boat that you can easily control. As you become more experienced, you can move up to larger boats with more powerful motors.

7. How to Make a DIY Remote Control Airboat

Another important factor to consider is the type of hull. The two most common hull types are monohulls and catamarans. Monohulls are traditional boats with a single hull, while catamarans have two separate hulls connected by a platform. Catamarans are generally faster and more stable than monohulls, making them ideal for racing. However, they can be more difficult to control, so they may not be the best choice for beginners.

8. How To Make Remote Control Boat at Home

When choosing an RC boat, it’s important to think about what you want to use it for. Are you interested in racing? Or do you simply want to cruise around your local lake? Once you know how you want to use your RC boat, it will be much easier to narrow down your choices and find the perfect one for your needs.

9. How To Make a Mini RC Boat

RC boats are a great way to have fun on the water. Whether you’re racing against friends or just exploring your local lake, these little boats can provide hours of enjoyment. Here are some tips for getting the most out of your RC boat:

Choose the right boat. There are a variety of RC boats on the market, from simple dinghies to high-speed racers. Pick one that suits your needs and Preferences.

10. How to Make a Remote Control Boat

Get familiar with the controls. Before you take your boat out on the water, make sure you understand how to operate the controls. This will help you avoid collisions and other accidents.

Practice makes perfect. Don’t be afraid to experiment with your boat in different conditions. The more you practice, the better you’ll become at handling it.

11. How To Make a Fast RC Boat

4. Have fun! Ultimately, that’s what RC boating is all about. So relax and enjoy yourself!

How to make a remote control boat

1. design and prepare the shape of the boat.

Design and prepare the shape of your boat. The design needs to be planned before any building can take place. Deciding on the design early can ensure that it will be built correctly. Work on a plan for at least one week to get your ideas together.

The simplest way to design the design is to draw on paper using pencils or markers. A more professional method would use Computer-Aided Design (CAD) software which can help with the design process.

2. Design the electronics

Now that the boat’s shape is done, it is time to design the electronics. Please list all your components and decide the best way to put them together. Remember, this task does not have to be complicated and can be completed with ease by following these easy steps:

3) Design & install the onboard controls

Now that you have designed your electronics, it is time to work on the onboard controls. Again, design your electronics to serve the purpose that you want them to.

4) Assemble the electronics for testing and troubleshooting.

Once you have designed all of your electronics, it’s time to sell them together so you can test them before you do any soldering on the boat itself. This step is essential to prevent unexpected problems while building the boat itself.

5) Assemble and install electronics into the boat hull.

Before wiring can be done inside the boat, the electrical tape should be wrapped around all exposed wire connections. This keeps wires from shorting out because they are touching each other while assembled in the boat’s hull.

6) Wire the electronics to their respective locations.

Now that the electronics have been assembled, connected, and wrapped in electrical tape, it is time to wire them into the boat. Begin wiring by starting with a power source of some sort, typically a battery pack. These are easily installed later, so do not worry if your boat will not have one.

7) Assemble the motor, wiring, and electronics onto the boat hull.

Next, it is time to assemble the motor and wiring onto the boat. This is a simple process. The size of your boat will determine how difficult this will be for you. Use your hands to firmly push the motor into place with the wires running through it to ensure that it does not fall off during this process or any after-step.

8) Install float switch and ignition circuit.

The next step is to install the float switch and ignition circuit. The float switch should be placed on top of the motor, as seen in the picture, so that a slight current can pass through it from one side to the other.

9) Install steering controls and electronics onto the boat hull.

It is time to install the steering controls and electronics onto the boat. This step is not a complicated process but will require some force as you push parts into place.

Apply electrical tape to any electrical connections as needed during this step. Once all connections have been made and secured, you can begin wiring inside the boat.

10) Install propeller into boat hull and wiring.

The next step is to install a propeller onto your craft, with wires running through it to prevent any accidental shorts or touching of wires causing damage during use.

Next, wire your electronics for remote operation before proceeding with this step due to potential battery issues that may arise later on in the operation of your watercraft.

Tips for keeping your remote control boat in good condition

Remote control boats are a great way to enjoy the water and have some fun, but they require some basic maintenance to keep them in good condition. Here are a few tips:

Rinse off your boat after every use. This will help to remove any salt or other chemicals that could damage the paint or other parts of the boat.
Store your boat in a dry place when not in use. This will help to prevent rust and corrosion.
Check the batteries regularly and replace them as needed. This will ensure that your boat has enough power to run properly.
Inspect the hull of your boat regularly for cracks or other damage. This will help you to identify any potential problems before they become serious.

By following these simple tips, you can keep your remote control boat in good condition and enjoy it for many years to come.

So there you have it, the basics of building your remote control boat from scratch. It is not as complicated as it may seem and can be easily accomplished by anyone who decides to build one of these boats.

These are just some basic steps in making a remote control boat, and there are many more ways to make your unique model that others will recognize for years to come.

Hi, my name’s Elena Coolidge. I’m a DIY enthusiast who loves building fun woodworking plans. These DIY plans are fun hobby projects for enthusiasts or even more advanced builders that want to build things like bunk beds, end tables or even a duck box!

Build a Simple RC Boat Hull

Want plans for this project? Get them at the Plan Store .

A scratch built RC boat hull that is easy and inexpensive. Learn to scratch build with this simple project. Plans are now available for download .

This RC boat hull building instruction goes hand-in-hand with the plans available for download . The hull, and entire boat, is designed to be a relatively easy project.

Before you email me asking if I think this is a suitable project for you, I'd like to offer the following advice: Read through the building instructions and any pages that it may link to and make your own guess first. I'm willing to bet your guess will be better than mine anyways:)

Introduction

Read a short introduction to this new series of small RC model boats to learn more, what materials you'll need etc.

Here are some of the tools I ended up using for building this RC boat hull.

Razor blades or X-acto knife (or both)
Steel straight-edge
Small square
Thin CA (cyano acrylate) glue
3M Spray Mount Repositionable Adhesive #6065 or similar

Print out the templates

Start by printing out all the plan sheets that you downloaded. Consider printing out a second set for reference and/or just in case...

Next it's time to cut out the templates, starting with the bulkheads, transom, keel, deck and chine shelf (Item "A").

Cutting out the Templates

A word of caution, don't cut too close to the outline at this point. You can safely stay 1/16 (1.5mm) outside the perimeter of each part.

In addition, parts that get thinner in the middle or are generally "spindly", (bulkheads #2, 3 and 4, keel, deck and chine shelf) are best not to cut out the internal area for the template to maintain its integrity.

Lay Out the Templates on Balsa

Next lay them out on your 1/8" (3mm) balsa sheets. Try not to just throw them on if you want to conserve material, but don't place them too close together either.

Leave 1/8" to 1/4" (3-6mm) between the outline of the parts. Once your happy with the layout you can pencil in the outline of the templates onto the balsa, or take a picture, so you remember where each piece go.

Use the Spray Mount adhesive to glue the templates in place. Follow the instructions on the can.

Cutting and Trimming

examples of templates placed on balsa sheets

At this point all templates should be glued to the balsa with the Spray Mount Adhesive, essentially turning the templates into over-size sticky notes. Now it's time to start cutting out the parts.

Separate each part from the sheet first by using a razor blade or X-acto knife and a metal straight-edge. At this point don't worry about the templates, except not to cut into them. This step is just to separate the pieces so they can be trimmed later.

You don't need the straight-edge, but it is infinitely easier to make a cut if you do, and the risk of slipping and cutting into a template is greatly reduced. If you have a scroll saw or band saw it can be put to good use at this step.

As the pieces are separated from each other, there will be excess material surrounding the templates. Now it's time to trim that down. I tend to do it in successive steps and using the straight-edge as much as possible. The resulting angles will be taken off at the final trim.

I also tend to start with the outside shape and do any internal areas last, otherwise the pieces can break and split easily.

Making Multiple Pieces From a Single Template

Also note that the deck and chine shelf templates only account for one half of the hull, so you need to make two of items "A" and "B". The same goes for the knee (item "E").

The best way to make two identical parts is to sandwich two sheets of wood under the template and cut through the stack. Two issues emerge:

How to hold the sandwich firmly together while cutting?

The best way I've found is to first attach the template to one of the sheets of balsa and trim the balsa roughly to the template with a razor blade or X-acto knife.

Next, leaving the other half oversize, glue it to the first half using two tiny dots of CA glue. The amount of glue is relatively important - too much glue and you won't be able to get them apart etc.

How to make a perpendicular cut through both sheets?

Making a perpendicular cut free hand on balsa is difficult. If you're just a little off perpendicular the two halves will be different size and the whole point of sandwiching the material is lost.

The way I do it is to trim the sandwiched parts until all you've got left is an even 1/16" (1.5mm) of balsa surrounding the outline of the template. To get to finished size I trim off the last bit with 80 grit sandpaper on a hard sanding block. I often lay the balsa over the edge of my work table and that way have an easier time keeping the angle straight.

With the exception of multiple parts from one template (as outlined above) parts with straight edges are best cut to finished size with the knife and straight-edge.

For rounded edges there will be excess material coming off as angles. This is best dealt with using a wooden sanding block and 80 grit sand paper. Start at the angled peaks and work your way around the perimeter.

When sanding, your strokes need to go in one direction only. from the template side towards the back so you don't lift the template off the wood. You can put some angle to it, but you get the general idea.

all parts for the rc boat hull with templates still attached

The last thing to do is to trim mortises and the internal areas as mentioned earlier. Once all done you should have a set of parts like in the picture above.

Transfer Lines From Templates to Parts

At this point its tempting to peel off the templates, but hold your horses - we're not quite ready for that yet. Instead we need to transfer relative position from the templates to some of the parts to aid the assembly for accurate position and alignment.

The best tools for the job is a small square and a sharp, relatively soft, lead pencil.

a small square is used for marking parts relative position

The parts that get the treatment are chine shelf, keel, deck, and transom. Having the center line marked on the outside of the transom will help in aligning the keel and rudder.

The other components need marks to give the relative position for the bulkheads. Only one line is required per bulkhead, but I typically mark the position for both edges so I don't have to remember if the bulkhead goes in front of or behind the line. With two lines, I know the bulkhead goes between.

separating two duplicate balsa parts with a razor blade

Once the necessary marks are made, you can safely peel off the templates with one exception: Leave the template on the keel in place f or now . The parts that were doubled can be separated as shown in the picture. Some wood will most likely separate from one side, but it's not enough to worry about.

Dry Fitting the RC Boat Hull

Dry fitting is the first and most important step as the hull is being constructed. This is a good opportunity to trim and fix minor flaws that may have worked its way in at this point. Better to remake one erroneous part than an entire assembly, so take your time.

Dry fitting also helps you familiarize yourself with the pieces that make up an assemble and help you figure out which order to attach the parts while retaining good alignment and integrity.

first dry-fit of chine shelf, transom and two knees

The most important tool to make a straight hull is a flat surface to build it on. It is good if you can drive pins into it, lay weights or use magnets to hold the chine shelf down flat on the building board or table top.

Lay down the Hull Alignment Template on your building board and lay a sheet of wax paper or plastic food film (Seran Wrap or similar) over to prevent the model to stick to the template and your table. I've found the wax paper resist CA glue better, so that's what I use.

Secure the sheets to the board with a method suitable for the type of building board you're using - it can be pins, tape, weights etc.

chine shelf assembled on the building board front detail

When I built the prototype I didn't have the hull alignment template, so you'll see the template is missing in the pictures on this page. Assembly should be a lot easier and almost self explanatory with the template.

Align the two halves of the chine shelf on the hull alignment template. Pin or weigh them down once they are in position. There three most important places to check for proper alignment are:

The pinnacle of the stem
The rear edge
The inner edge at the stern

If all three of these line up with the template, secure them in place to the board and glue them together with a couple of drops of CA glue where they join at the front.

There are a few other less important points that should line up, such as the inner front edge and the lines drawn for the #1 bulkhead.

Retracing the bulkhead position marks with pencil lines

Take a straight-edge and pencil and draw lines connecting the bulkhead position marks you made from the templates to aid bulkhead placement later on.

Earlier we marked both front and rear edge of the bulkheads onto the balsa. Now I usually only connect one set of those tick-marks, using the other set as a visual guide for bulkhead placement.

transom, knees and chine shelf glued together

Place the transom (item "5") in-between the two chine shelf pieces and line it up with even on the left and right hand side. Use the two knees (items "E") to establish the correct angle for the transom. The knees should line up with the inner edges of the chine shelf (see pictures), but their placement is not critical.

Sometimes the parts will stay in place by themselves, other times they need pins. Try and eliminate any gaps. Either way, once the placement is right, attach the pieces with small drops of CA glue at the joints. Be careful not to bump the parts out of position.

detail of stem piece and first bulkhead attached to rc boat hull

Next dry fit the stem piece (item marked "D") and bulkhead #1 and lay them in position with stem piece centered on the hull center-line and the bulkhead in it's marked position.

Check and make sure they are perpendicular to the building board and each other. The position of the stem piece is more important than the bulkhead, so pay extra attention to it. Once they're in position, glue them in place.

Take bulkhead #2 and align it as well. Check and make sure it is centered by checking against the edge of the chine shelf - it should over/under-shoot equally on either side. Where the tail end of the stem piece meet the bulkhead is less important.

bird's eye view of the rc boat hull so far

Do the exact same for bulkhead #3 and 4.

Cut the two deck stringers from a 1/8" x 3/8" (or 3 x 10mm) balsa stick and glue in place. You can leave it long at the transom end and trim it with an X-acto Razor Saw for example.

The rc boat hull assembly is now fairly rigid and likely to stay straight and true. In the next installment we'll focus on the deck, keel and lower part of the hull structure before moving on to some internal installations and planking.

Continue to the next step...

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By Petter Blix

Trademarks belong to their respective owners

RC Wing Sail Catamaran

Introduction: RC Wing Sail Catamaran

This is a Wing Sail Catamaran project that I started over 6 years ago after seeing the new AC 45s introduced to the America's Cup races. The model uses PVC sheet, Carbon Fiber tubing and 377 Dupont Mylar to "skin" the wings. The "Cookie Cutter" construction technique allows me to make quick inexspensive changes to the design without having to scrap a model and start over, everything is tweekable. Two Catamaran models are shown here, but I have created a total of four boats during design development, one of which only sailed once,and poorly. But that one sailing taught me alot, and I started another boat the next day. It's not all about finishing one boat, it's about developing a Platform that can evolve as you learn.

Attachments

Racing Sparrow Plans

Check out these plans and resources, ranging from a 375mm boat to a 1500mm yacht. Pair these with our eBook guide for a fast, easy, and affordable home build RC yacht.

Racing Sparrow model yachts, orange rg65 and a black 750 in the background

RS-RG65 - 650mm plans, measures to international RG65 rules

A full forward hull and a straight stern. This boat has proven to be a very fast and competitive racer.

Free Book Sample - PDF

A few pages from the eBook absolutely free

Racing Sparrow model yacht, red hull sailing upwind with a 45 degree heel angle. looks fast

Racing Sparrow 750 plans

The plans that come with the eBook.

Racing Sparrow 1000 plans

A one metre version, scaled up lines. Bulkhead only plans. Look at the 750 for full schematics.

Racing Sparrow 1500 plans - A scaled up Racing Sparrow

A larger size model yacht. I haven't seen many of these surface. It's a good challenge to build.

Racing Sparrow model yacht being held by a woman who is about to launch the boat for a sail

Racing Sparrow 375 plans - The smallest sparrow

A miniature RacingSparrow. A great introduction to building with balsa.

racing sparrow footy model yacht, strip planked

RacingSparrow Footy plans

A double diagonal design footy from RacingSparrow.

Logos & Sticker Sheet

Downloadable logos and an EPS file to be sent to a printer and printed out on navy blue cutout vinyl.

Common questions about the plans

What tools do i need to build a racingsparrow.

1. Chisel 2. Craft-knife 3. Drill Bit - 2mm (5/64in)bit 4. Drill Bit - 5mm (3/16in) bit 5. Electric Drill 6. Felt Marker 7. File 8. Hacksaw 9. Hammer 10. Hole Punch 11. Lighter 12. Pen 13. Pencil 14. Pins 15. Pliers 16. Ruler (steel) 17. Sanding Block 18. Scissors 19. Screwdriver 20. Spirit Level (optional) 21. Sponge Brush (several) 22. Vice Grips

Do I need the eBook to build this cool rc sailboat?

No you don't. The book is designed for the newcomer to model yacht building. The book does make it a much simpler process with every detail figured out and covered in the book. Seasoned builders can simply have a go with the free plans.

Are the plans really free?

Yes all the plans are free to download and use as you see fit. The most comprehensive plans are the RS750 A1 full size.

Are there CAD files or 3D files?

Yes there is a 3D dxf file inside a zip file that you can download for free and use how you want. Some people use this in CAD programs or in 3D modelling programmes to great effect. Look under Racing Sparrow 750 plans on this page. An STL file for 3D printing is in the pipelines. Email me if you want a copy.

While we think 3D printing is great, we believe old-skool strip planking balsa is a wonderfully simple way to make a very lightweight boat with excellent longitudinal strength and beauty.

Builders eBook

Dive into the world of boat building with our eBook. Discover the craft of hull planking, fibreglass strengthening, and lead keel ballast casting.

Master the art of electrics installation, spray painting, sail making, and tuning of sails. Download a sample today and embark on a rewarding journey of boat construction.

internal structure - 3d model illustration

What the builders and sailors say:

Being a complete novice, I purchased your book a couple of years ago and built two racing sparrows. Building on this experience I then went on to build, from scratch, an IOM (Triple Crown design). I've since joined a local club and sail virtually every weekend. I would just like to thank you for your endeavours which have allowed me to enter a world I never thought was in my reach.

John Sterland, Australia

Coming upon your book, "Build your own Radio Controlled Yacht" in the Napier Public Library, I am hugely impressed. The combination of your superb photos and illustrations with your easy writing style make it a standout publication and I hope it does well for you.

Richard Spence, New Zealand

Thanks for an excellent design in your RG65. I trialled her again today in a solid 20 knots gusting higher. Even so in a steep chop and fingers off the rudder she drove upwind remarkably well, balanced perfectly. Very impressed that a model boat can handle that with a large rig. I found the book excellent. Ive built several big boats, plus a few skiffs and without that resource building such a good boat would have been impossible.

Mike Bennett

Look at all these cool boats folk have made at home

There is also a full gallery with a boat load of photos of Racing Sparrow's

Matt - Fly Girl 750

Oct 1, 2014

Geoff Lewis , Isle of Wight

Sep 22, 2009

John Goodyear , England

Mar 20, 2009

Tools of the trade

Feb 2, 2019

An icy looking spot for a 375!

Jan 3, 2011

Jonathan Daniel

Oct 9, 2008

Apr 20, 2020

I bought the racing sparrow book about 18 months ago, didn’t ever think it would take an awful pandemic to prompt me to build it. Now can’t wait to rig and sail it. I opted for flush hatches to run the sheets over the top.

John Sterland , Australia

Dec 28, 2011

A reconditioned RS750 by the designer Bryn , New Zealand

Aug 3, 2009

Royal Declerk's cool Multi-Hull , Australia

Jun 11, 2015

Dear Bryn, I felt I had to tell you, my beautiful 75, "Jack Sparrow" got away from me due to a radio malfunction and sailed off into the distance across Port Phillip bay to be not heard of again, probably on its way to China?? so have made three land yachts for the grandchildren, sail them at Sandy Point ( Gippsland)

My latest model is a foiling catamaran based on the AC45 (another brilliant NZ design)(very sad to see NZ beaten in the cup) and so "Black Mamba" has evolved.

Yet to do sea trials but if it works as intended will be amazing. Best wishes from Royal Declerck.

7 Super-Fast RC Catamaran Boats

Catamarans—cats for short—are the type of boat you either love or have little interest in. This guide is for the former. An RC catamaran is a multihulled vessel with dual parallel hulls. With sailing cats, there are at least two beams that connect the hulls, with a mast on one of them. The absence of a keel lets the boats sail or race in shallow waters. That means they get to go where other models can’t.

The Catamaran’s unique design is not only for riding the shallows. It also makes the boats a lot wider, more stable, and faster than conventional monohull crafts.

Budget


4.2/5.0
Power: Electric
Material: Blow-molded ABS
RTR model, excellent first-time cat, streamlined design, breakaway rudder.

Best Value


4.8/5.0
Power: Electric
Material: Blow-molded ABS
Tactic Tx, striking graphics, breakaway rudder, failsafe features, boat stand.

Top Pick


4.4/5.0
Power: Gas
Material: Triple layered fiberglass
Powerful 30cc engine, water cooling, metal prop, centrifugal clutch.

Radio Controlled Catamarans

R/C catamarans are miniature versions of real boats. Most models are ultra-fast speedboats that achieve plane quicker than other vessel types. Hobbyists love to race them because of their pace on the water and aggressive turning ability. The downside to cats is that they’re not at home on choppier waters, and are more vulnerable to turnovers. Consider an RC cat for smooth water, sporty fun.

RC Catamaran Buying Considerations

The price between models can vary a lot, so set a maximum budget before you do anything. Knowing your budget narrows down the search to only those within your price range.

Here’s a quick breakdown of buying considerations for those new to RC.

Gas vs. electric
Motor choices
Running time
Charging time
Useful features
Gas Vs. Electric Power

Opt for an electric cat if you’re new to the world of RC boats. They’re cleaner, easier to maintain and still have plenty of oomph on the water. Gas-powered cats are for experienced hobbyists. They’re for people who love the realistic experience provided by liquid fuels. But they’re also dirtier, need periodic oil changes, engine tune-ups, and regular maintenance.

Speed Considerations

Speed is half the fun, but the faster the boat, the more space and skills one needs to control it. Some models have variable speeds, whereas others are plain fast from the off. Think about where you intend to use the boat. High speed is not your friend with small bodies of water such as pools and tiny ponds. Novice users should opt for a slower cat or one with variable speeds and precise throttle manipulation.

Motor Choices

Electric-powered catamarans use brushed or brushless motors. The brushed options are the cheapest of the two. They are also slower and have a shorter life expectancy than their brushless counterparts. Brushless is the best option because they pack more power, are quieter, and require no maintenance. Most agree that the higher cost of a brushless power system is justifiable.

Running & Charging Times

The time an RC cat runs on a single charge depends on how hard you push it and the battery used. Running times vary between models and can range from single digits to 30+ minutes. There are two other things to consider here. One is the charging time and the other is the cost of extra batteries. I include the battery and charging times in each of the reviews.

Control Range

The control range is how far the boat can travel from its transmitter. Make sure the distance is acceptable for your needs. Likewise, it’s not necessary to have a range that goes further than the line of sight (LOS). If that happens, and you lose power or the signal, you may not be able to recover the boat. Some models come with low-battery and low-signal warning indicators.

The range also depends on the radio system used and other factors. The control distance is acceptable with all the models featured in this review guide.

Useful Features

Make a list of what features are important to you. Consider the boat’s materials, especially its hull. Others might be a breakaway rudder system, low battery protection, and a self-righting function. Make a note of the dimensions too. Beginners often buy a model that’s either smaller or bigger than they thought. Also, heed the manufacturer’s recommended age if you’re buy the boat as a surprise gift.

About My ‘RC Catamaran’ Guide

The purpose of this simple guide is to put all the jumbled seller’s spiel into plain English. These short reviews highlight the boats good and not so good features—if any. There’s also a tech specs column that gives details of the specifics mentioned above.

The 7 RC catamarans below are the result of personal research. I also took the views of industry experts into consideration, along with user feedback. The first three are the Editor’s choice for Best Budget, Best Value, and the Top Pick. The cats below those are in price order for convenience.

RC Catamarans Comparison Table


	Electric	Blow-molded ABS
	Electric	Blow-molded ABS
	Gas	Triple layered fiberglass
	Electric	Blow-molded ABS
	Electric	Blow-molded ABS
	Electric	Hand-laid fiberglass
	Electric	Plastic

1. Pro Boat 17” Miss Geico RC Cat | Best Budget

Editor’s Rating: 4.2/5

Pro Boat‘s 7” Miss Geico is a fun RC catamaran. It’s a fully ready to run (RTR) model that comes complete with a battery and wall charger. It’s a fun boat and an excellent first-time cat.

Best feature 1: Durable blow-molded ABS hull
Best feature 2: Dynamite 380-size motor
Plus points: RTR model, excellent first-time cat, streamlined design, breakaway rudder,
Minus points: Slow for a cat, short run time
Miss Geico RC Catamaran Highlights

The Miss Geico RC cat has a durable, rigid, impact-resistant ABS hull. A powerful 380 motor system provides the boat with plenty of torque for a model in its class. Consider this vessel as a first catamaran, especially if it’s a gift for younger children. It makes an excellent trainer craft with its precise throttle manipulation and easy-to-use controls.

The streamlined design and bright yellow color offer more than just an eye-catching appeal. It also gives the Miss Geico high visibility on the water. Another feature worth a mention is the breakaway rudder system. That helps to protect the drivetrain should the boat hit ground.

The Not So Good

At 12–15 mph, the 17” Miss Geico is not a super-fast catamaran, but then it doesn’t claim to be. The run time with the supplied battery only lasts about 10–15 minutes at best. That’s quite typical for this category, but disappointing nonetheless.

View on Amazon

Tech Specs
Pro Boat
Electric
30.8 x 7.5 x 5”
1.6 lbs.
10+ mph
2640ft (800 meters)
7.2V Ni-MH Speedpack™
10 minutes
1+ hour

The Pros
Excellent trainer cat for kids
Durable blow-molded ABS hull
Reliable motor
Ready-to-run (RTR)
Streamlined design
Bright, high-visibility hull
Breakaway rudder system

The Cons
Slow for a cat
Short run time

2. Aquacraft Wildcat EP Catamaran | Best Value

Editor’s Rating: 4.8/5

The Best Value pick goes to Aquacraft’s Wildcat EP brushless catamaran. This boat is a step up from the beginner-friendly model above. Let’s check out some of its best features.

Best feature 1: Molded ABS hull w/ transom drain plug
Best feature 2: Powerful 35-36-1800Kv brushless outrunner motor
Plus points: Tactic Tx, striking graphics, breakaway rudder, failsafe features, boat stand
Minus points: Too fast for beginners, no battery included
Wildcat EP Catamaran Highlights

The Aquacraft Wildcat EP catamaran is everything you’d expect from a model in its category. The boat has striking graphics and a beautiful streamlined molded ABS hull complete with a transom drain plug. A powerful brushless 35-36-1800Kv outrunner motor propels this cat to speeds exceeding 40 mph (64 km/h). Control is easy and interference-free thanks to the TTX300 SLT Tactic radio system.

Safe & Secure

There are plenty of safety and protection features with the Wildcat EP Catamaran, namely:

Water-cooled brushless controller w/ low-voltage cutoff
Break-away rudder system
Steering & throttle reverse/trims
Two-blade fiber-reinforced plastic propeller

Adrenaline fans won’t be disappointed with the speed and handling of this cat. It’s super stable on the water even when it’s choppy. It may fall slightly short for expert users, but it’s an excellent second boat for those at the intermediate level. There’s also a stand for safe storing out of the water.

The Wildcat EP catamaran may temp beginners though it’s too fast for novice users. It has superb handling, but driving at high speeds still takes skill. The model doesn’t include a battery, so you need to add at least 15 dollars to the price or more if you want spares.

Tech Specs
Aquacraft
Electric
8 x 11 x 36.4”
2 lbs.
40+ mph
3S 11.1V minimum 2000mAh (not included)
Depends on the battery
Depends on the battery & charger (not included)

The Pros
Superb handling
Molded ABS hull
Transom drain plug
Powerful brushless motor
Tactic radio system
Striking graphics
Breakaway rudder system
boat stand
Water-cooled controller
Low-voltage cutoff
Break-away rudder system
2-blade fiber-reinforced prop

The Cons
Too fast for beginners
Battery not included

3. RTR Gas-Powered Zelos G Catamaran | Top Pick

Editor’s Rating: 4.4/5

Pro Boat gets the Top Pick with it’s incredible gas-powered Zelos 48” catamaran. We’re in the big league now. It’s the kind of model that beginners and intermediate enthusiasts aspire to.

Best feature 1: Wide, triple layered fiberglass hull
Best feature 2: Sturdy canopy w/ thumb screw fasteners
Plus points: Powerful 30cc engine, water cooling, metal prop, centrifugal clutch, boat stand
Minus points: Needs experience and maintenance skills
Zelos G Catamaran Highlights

The Zelos™ 48 Type G Catamaran is a gorgeous boat. It has a classic sporty look with a striking trim finish. That makes it an attractive display model when it’s out of the water (stand included). And it’s well-protected against brutal crashes thanks to the extra layers of reinforced fiberglass.

The Zelos G Power System

This powerful high-speed boat springs to life when it’s on the water. Expect speeds of 50+ mph (80+ km/h) from its gas-powered 30cc Dynamite® Zenoah G300PUM engine. It starts effortlessly too with the EZ Starting System, so no pulling needed. The boat has a 3-blade metal prop that’s durable and long-lasting. It’s also possible to sharpen and balance the prop to improve performance further.

The metal propeller won’t spin when the engine is idle thanks to the centrifugal clutch. This safety feature protects hands and fingers when moving the boat in and out of the water. Surprisingly, not all big boats include a centrifugal clutch. Also, the propeller strut has anodizing to protect it in harsh conditions, and that includes salt water.

Another feature to mention is the water-cooling system. It uses water pickups on the bottom of the hull and the boat’s rudder. They work by feeding water to the cat’s engine and its tuned exhaust. Keeping operating temperatures down is vital for safe and optimal operation.

Spektrum™ DX2E Transmitter

The Zelos G Catamaran comes with a Spektrum™ DX2E transmitter. It’s a quality controller with adjustable endpoints and an extended range. It also includes a built-in lost signal fail-safe feature for added protection. The radio system uses a waterproof Spektrum MR4000 receiver.

This boat is not for the faint-hearted, and it’s not suitable for novice users. The engine must be broken in first. Although that’s not difficult, problems do arise out of impatience and ignorance. Engines—unlike electric power—need maintenance and tweaking to perfection. There are safety issues to consider as well. These things are only negatives for the inexperienced RC boater.

Tech Specs
Pro Boat
Gas
61 x 21.7 x 14.8”
39 lbs.
50+ mph
3200mAh LiPo
4 hours

The Pros
Wide, triple layered fiberglass hull
Striking trim finish
Sturdy canopy w/ screw fasteners
Reinforced fiberglass
Powerful 30cc engine
Spektrum™ DSMR 2.4GHz Radio
Spektrum MR4000 receiver
Water cooling
Metal 3-bladed propeller
Centrifugal clutch
Wood boat stand

The Cons
Needs experience and maintenance skills

4. Pro Boat RTR Blackjack 24” Brushless RC Cat

Pro Boat RTR Blackjack 24” Brushless RC Cat

Editor’s Rating: 4.3/5

This RC fast cat is the ready to run (RTR) RC Blackjack 24” brushless catamaran. It’s a fun boat for use on ponds and lakes that leaves plenty of waves in its wake.

Best feature 1: Ready to run (RTR) catamaran
Best feature 2: Powerful 2000Kv brushless water-cooled motor
Plus points: Off-set rudder system, 1-piece electronics tray, waterproof electronics, drain plug
Minus points: Potentially loose parts, short running time
Pro Boat 24” Blackjack Highlights

Pro Boat’s lightweight RTR 24” Blackjack is ready to go right out of its box. Its blood red paint job and streamline design give it an eye-catching appearance. It can pack a punch on the water too, capable of top speeds around 30 mph (48 km/h). The power comes from a water-cooled 2000Kv brushless motor and 30A LiPo compatible ESC. Blackjack’s 2.4GHz radio system is a Spektrum™ STX FHSS.

An off-set high-strength rudder system provides the boat with outstanding stability on the water. The Blackjack has waterproof electronics and a convenient one-piece electronics tray. Other feature highlights include a handy drain plug and a waterproof hull-mounted steering servo.

This catamaran is ready to run (RTR), but there are some reports of loose parts. New users should always check for any looseness with this and any RC boat before running it. The other, more predictable con, is the short running time. How long you get depends on the battery (not included). Even so, the boat’s unlikely to go for much more than 10 minutes on a single charge.

Tech Specs
Pro Boat
Electric
31 x 10.1 x 7.4”
0.4 lbs.
30 mph
High-performance NiMH or LiPo (not included)
10+ minutes
Depends on the battery and charger (not included)

The Pros
Ready to run (RTR) catamaran
Powerful brushless motor
Fast top speed
Spektrum™ STX radio system
Off-set rudder system
One-piece electronics tray
Waterproof electronics
Hull-mounted steering servo
Handy drain plug

The Cons
Potentially loose parts
Short running time

5. Rage RTR RC B1207 Super Catamaran Boat

Editor’s Rating: 4.6/5

This model is the Rage RC B1207 Super Catamaran. It’s a 100% factory assembled ready to run (RTR) RC SuperCat. The model comes equipped with a 2CH, 2.4GHz radio system.

Best feature 1: Durable unibody ABS hull
Best feature 2: Fully proportional throttle and steering control
Plus points: Stainless steel parts, brushless power system, wooden display stand
Minus points: Few reviews
Rage B1207 Catamaran Highlights

The Rage RC B1207 SuperCat has a sleek design with an aggressive trim. It boasts a durable unibody ABS hull, stainless-steel propeller, and rudder. Users get plenty of adrenaline-pumping wave-making fun on the water too. Top speeds can reach up to 40 mph (64 km/h) in the right conditions.

High performance and smooth handling add further to the SuperCat’s appeal. We have the 2000kV water-cooled brushless motor and 40A water-cooled ESC to thank for that. And the boat’s fully proportional throttle and steering control keep you firmly in the driving seat. Some call it the water rocket, and it’s a deserved nickname too. Check out some of the video demonstrations.

This model doesn’t have much real user feedback at the time of writing. Many less experienced buyers rely on owner reviews as part of the decision-making process. Veteran RC boaters are in a better position to make informed choices based on personal experience.

Tech Specs
Rage RC
Electric
6.4 x 29.9 x 9”
0.4 lbs.
40 mph.
3S 3600mAh LiPo
Not included

The Pros
Durable unibody ABS hull
Fully proportional throttle and steering control
Stainless steel motor mount
Stainless steel shaft bracket
Stainless steel propeller
Stainless steel rudder assembly
Brushless power system
Wooden display stand

The Cons
Few reviews

6. Pro Boat UL-19 Brushless Fast Hydroplane Cat

Pro Boat UL-19 Brushless Fast Hydroplane Cat

Editor’s Rating: 4.7/5

Another Pro Boat model gets the sixth slot. This time it’s the UL-19, a 30 inch brushless hydroplane. OK, so it’s not a true cat, but its super-fast performance and airfoil hull are sure to interest some.

Best feature 1: Lightweight, durable design with vertical fins
Best feature 2: Brushless power system
Plus points: Hand-laid fiberglass, breakaway rudder, Spektrum™ 3KG servo, metal parts
Minus points: Gets hot fast, short run time
Pro Boat UL-19 Cat Highlights

You often read comments like adrenaline-pumping and heart-pounding, but in this case, it’s true. Pro Boat’s UL-19 is an incredible vessel that runs as fast as its sleek design suggests. This puppy can reach speeds up to 50+ mph on 6S power due to its 6 pole water-cooled motor and the 120A ESC. Drivers get to experience fast, confident cornering thanks to the waterproof Spektrum™ 3KG servo.

The UL-19 hydroplane is a lightweight yet stable boat on the water. The boat’s canopy and hull use hand-laid fiberglass in the build for added strength. It has removable/replaceable vertical fins and a breakaway rudder. The model also uses metal for its vital components. They include the aluminum rudder, stainless steel 2-blade prop, aluminum propeller strut, and a stainless-steel turn fin.

The electronics tend to get overly hot even at slower speeds. You’d expect that with flat-out racing for long durations, but not at half throttle. Yes, the Pro Boat UL-19 can run on a 6S battery setup, but it won’t serve you well in the longer term. Ideally, the 2-3S 5000mAh 50C LiPo is certain to increase component life. Running time depends on the setup, but it’s going to be in single digits in all cases.

Tech Specs
Pro Boat
Electric
39.2 x 19.6 x 11.3”
5.72
50+ mph
2x 2-3S 5000mAh 50C LiPo w/ EC5 connector (not included)
3+ minutes
Depends on the battery and charger (not included)

The Pros
Lightweight, durable design
Removable vertical fins
Brushless power system
Hand-laid fiberglass canopy & hull
Stainless steel 2-blade prop
Stainless steel turn fin
Adjustable aluminum prop strut
Break-away aluminum rudder
Waterproof electronics
Spektrum™ 3KG servo

The Cons
Gets hot fast
Short run time

7. Traxxas Red DCB M41 Brushless Catamaran

Editor’s Rating: 4.5/5

Meet the Traxxas Red DCB M41. It’s a powerful brushless catamaran capable of reaching speeds up to 50 mph (80 km/h) on 6S power. The designer of this beauty is DCB or Dave’s Custom Boats.

Best feature 1: Wide physique catamaran
Best feature 2: Precision sculpted 1350 Mercury racing engines
Plus points: Ultra-fast, versatile, low voltage safety, adjustable battery trays, electronics tray
Minus points: Needs upgrades for optimal performance, high price tag
Traxxas Red DCB M41 Cat Highlights

The Traxxas Red DCB M41 twin hull catamaran is a beast outdoors that’s fast and versatile. It’s a stable performer too whether it’s racing across waves or smoother water. The included advanced TQi receiver, and 2.4GHz transmitter allows captains to fine-tune their boat. The incredible power comes from a pair of precision sculpted 1350 Mercury racing engines.

Let’s look at some of the other feature highlights. The adjustable battery trays with hook-and-loop straps are useful. You can adapt them to use with various Traxxas LiPo or NiMH batteries. The cat is compatible for use with 6S LiPos with integral low-voltage detection. There’s a removable electronics tray and a waterproof receiver box that are easy to access for maintenance.

It’s a beautiful boat and a great performer, but it does need upgrades for optimal performance. The stock cooling is one, and the stock plastic props don’t hold out too well either. Some users complain about the thin plastic hull as well. Despite that, I haven’t come across any reports of the hull breaking up. The cost of a Traxxas Red DCB M41 is quite high, but most fans think it offers excellent value.

Tech Specs
Traxxas
Electric
40.6 x 10.5 x 8.3”
8.82 lbs.
50+ mph
2 x 3s lipo (not included)
15+ minutes
1+ hour

The Pros
Wide physique catamaran
Twin high-powered racing engines
Ultra-fast top speeds
Versatile and stable
Low voltage safety
Adjustable battery trays
TQi 2.4GHz Tx and Rx
Removable electronics tray
Removable receiver box

The Cons
Needs upgrades for optimal performance
High price tag

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Open Source 13-15m Catamaran Plans

Discussion in ' Projects & Proposals ' started by archie1492 , Jan 3, 2018 .

archie1492 Junior Member

Dear all, I want to create a detailed building information model for a 13 - 15 meter catamaran that is capable of being CNC cut and assembled. I need some help finding plans I can use as a basis of design. Specifically, I need the hull profile information. Section cuts through the hull will give me the ideal contours for a boat of this size. Can someone help? After weeks of searching, I still cannot find these online. For now, this is merely an exercise in my 3d modeling capability. I'd like to share my drawing work with the forum if I can get some assistance to start off. There are future possibilities I am also considering. I'm an experienced Architect & construction designer with a strong background in computer aided design. Once I've modeled the boat in 3d, I would like to flatten the various parts and create plans for the individual boat parts to be CNC cut. I would like to build a small scale model first (1:2o or perhaps 1:10) with the ultimate goal of building the boat full scale.

TANSL Senior Member

This is a very simple catamaran which, if you are interested, I can give you a lot of information. It is not a spectacular boat but it can help you in your first steps with boats. LOA = 16 m, Lbp = 14.6 m

Thanks I really appreciate it. The hull lines for the motor cat you've provided are not quite what i'm looking for. I'm specifically looking for the hull lines for a 14m catamaran sail boat. I guess there is some standard for these contours especially the area below the waterline. Check the attached document as well if anyone is interested in this.

Attached Files:

catdimension.pdf

I'm sorry, you never specified that it was a sailing catamaran. I thought that to carry out your purposes, " For now, this is merely an exercise in my 3d modeling capability ", any model was valid. Apparently, you have different purposes than, in addition to, to practice with 3D models. The better you clarify what you are really looking for, the better someone can help you.

Hi all, Here's an example of what kind of information I need to get started. Optimising Hull Lines for Performance https://www.graingerdesigns.net/the-lab/optimising-hull-lines-for-performance/ The boat shown here is a 8.5m cat sailboat. I'm looking for something a bit larger in the 14m range. Also, the images only show one of the hull profiles. I'd like profile lines for the entire boat. I will post some other images I've found online showing profile lines for smaller boats. I still cannot find any 14m hull lines. Can anyone help?

grainger_1488019480.jpg

Grainger_1488019410.jpg, grainger_1488019333.jpg, grainger_1488019265.jpg, grainger_1488019219.jpg.

Here are some other hull lines I've found online. Hope this is useful to anyone else looking for this information. Thanks!

Evergreen Lines small.jpg

Hull-lines.jpg, shark-20.jpg.

You could take any of those boats and scaleb the lines to get the desired length. Since it is only a 3D modeling exercise, you do not have to worry about anything else. You could even make a mix of 2 or 3 of those models to get the one you are looking for.

Thanks Tansl, I'd like to make the boat drawings accurate for the 14m size. Perhaps one day I will develop this into something worth building full scale. The more accurate I can draw the boat, the more I will learn about the boat design.

Maybe it does not look like it but I would like to help you. If you do not find what you want on the Internet I could draw a lines plan, strictly following your instructions, which would help you to make the 3D model. Or, if you find something similar on the internet I can adapt it to your needs and fill in the information that you indicate you need for your work. I insist that starting from the shapes of a 10 m boat you can get the shapes of a boat of 14 m, with total accuracy.

Dolfiman Senior Member

archie1492 said: ↑ I'd like to make the boat drawings accurate for the 14m size. Perhaps one day I will develop this into something worth building full scale. The more accurate I can draw the boat, the more I will learn about the boat design. Click to expand...

Cata 14m with Gene-Hull UE Catamaran 2.3_2018 01 15.ods

Gene-Hull Catamaran 2.3 User Guide_2018 01 16.pdf

Hull for cata 14m with Gene-Hull UE Catamaran 2.3_2018 01 16.pdf

Dolfiman, thanks so much! This is exactly what I was looking for. It's very interesting and probably a bit over my head at this point. I think this should work for modeling the basic hull shape. For the bridge deck and all of the stuff above the hull I can model this with a bit more creativity. Although, I'd like to learn more about understanding the center of gravity for the boat and the proper location of the mast. Are there any rules of thumb about this? Thanks again!

archie1492 said: ↑ I think this should work for modeling the basic hull shape. Click to expand...

Cata 14m V2 with Gene-Hull UE Catamaran 2.3_2018 01 15.ods

In complement to illustrate this first approach, my good friend Alain did some 3D views here attached of the hull V2 version with Multisurf (using fit for purpose ouput data in section 5. of the above file). To inspire you , some other examples of cata, more sport/day sailer oriented than the Saona 47 : - R/P 45 (Reichel-Pugh) : multihull http://reichel-pugh.com/tag/multihull/ - Dazcat 1295 : in this video, from 1:45 the launch, you can see the hulls from various angles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BZF4Udda5E - SIG 45 (VPLP design) : from 1:20 you can see the winward hull fully lifted

dean 1962 New Member

archie1492 said: ↑ Dear all, I want to create a detailed building information model for a 13 - 15 meter catamaran that is capable of being CNC cut and assembled. I need some help finding plans I can use as a basis of design. Specifically, I need the hull profile information. Section cuts through the hull will give me the ideal contours for a boat of this size. Can someone help? After weeks of searching, I still cannot find these online. For now, this is merely an exercise in my 3d modeling capability. I'd like to share my drawing work with the forum if I can get some assistance to start off. There are future possibilities I am also considering. I'm an experienced Architect & construction designer with a strong background in computer aided design. Once I've modeled the boat in 3d, I would like to flatten the various parts and create plans for the individual boat parts to be CNC cut. I would like to build a small scale model first (1:2o or perhaps 1:10) with the ultimate goal of building the boat full scale. Click to expand...

Archie, I have been looking to do the same thing. Where are you at on the project? Very interested in hearing all about it. Thanks.

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Pro Boat Rockstar 48-inch Catamaran Gas Powered RTR RC Boat

Pro Boat Rockstar 48-inch Catamaran Gas-Powered RC Boat

This is the Pro Boat Rockstar 48-inch Catamaran Gasoline-Powered Ready-to-Run Radio Controlled Boat, featuring a 26cc water-cooled engine and 2.4GHz Spektrum radio system. This monster is ready for 40+MPH speeds right out of the box! If youre looking to make waves like a rockstar then look no further than the Rockstar 48 inch catamaran, officially licensed by Rockstar Energy. This powerful RC catamaran comes equipped with a water-cooled Dynamite 26cc gas engine capable of ballistic speeds of over 40 miles per hour. Control of this killer Rockstar is made possible by the included Spektrum DX2E DSMR 2.4GHz radio system. Designed for optimum performance on a massive hand-laid, lightweight fiberglass hull the Rockstar 48 inch catamaran comes decorated in distinctive Rockstar Energy graphics and looks amazing on the water.

Powerful water-cooled Dynamite® 26cc gas engine capable of propelling the catamaran to speeds of over 40 MPH.
To better power its behemoth size the Rockstar Catamaran comes equipped with a large-scale servo with over 270 oz.-in of torque
Removable composite radio tray allows for easy maintenance and access to receiver and radio components
A durable inline rudder ensures the Rockstar 48 inch catamaran will turn with precision in both directions
Unlike most catamaran boats of this size the Rockstar 48 has a wide hull for better stability in turns and rough water
A centrifugal clutch helps prevent the prop from spinning while the engine is at idle. This added safety measure keeps your fingers and hands safe while being handled
The aluminum hardware has been anodized to match the Rockstar trim scheme and adds a level of durability for longevity
The Rockstar 48 inch catamaran comes equipped with the superior Spektrum DX2E DSMR Radio System

Specifications

Length: 48.0 in (1219.2mm) Beam: 17.3 in (440mm) Engine Size: 26cc Speed: 40+MPH Radio: DX2E 2-channel DSMR Hull Material: Fiberglass Trim Scheme Colors: Rockstar licensed black, gold, red and yellow Prop Size: 70mm dia 1.5 pitch Hull Type: Catamaran Battery: 7.4V 5200mAh 2S LiPo Weight: 20.2 lb (9.16 kg) Drive System: Flex shaft Exhaust: Tuned pipe w/ muffler

87 or higher octane gasoline with 2-cycle oil Gasoline-approved dispensing container LiPo battery charger

Videos Hide Videos Show Videos

Rockstar 48-inch Catamaran Gas Powered: RTR by Pro Boat

For more information or to purchase yours, please visit http:/...

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Catamaran Hull Design

Post author By Rick
Post date June 29, 2010
2 Comments on Catamaran Hull Design

Part 1: Notes from Richard Woods

Since the America’s Cup experimented with going multihull, there’s been a lot of interest in catamaran performance and the catamaran hull designs that define performance. Many guys are investigating whether to buy a catamaran or design and build their dream boat. Let it be said here that building a large catamaran is not for the faint of heart. People begin building 100s of boats a year, yet few are ever completed, as life always seems to have a way of interfering with a good boat build.

Never the less, since the rest of this website is about selecting and buying a boat , it only seems fair to have at least one webpage that covers catamaran design. This page contains notes on boat hull design goals and an accompanying page from Terho Halme has mathematical formulas used in actual catamaran hull design. It has become a popular research stop and an important reference to the catamaran design community.

The content of this page was reproduced from the maestro of Catamaran designs, renown British naval architect, Richard Woods, who not only designs catamarans, he sails them across oceans…. repeatedly. He has a lot to say on the subject of catamaran hull design.

“…When it’ all said and done, the performance of a sailing catamaran is dependent on three primary specs: length, sail area and weight. If the boat is longer it generally means it’ a faster boat. If she has more sail area, it means she’ a faster boat and if she’ light it means she’ a faster boat. Of course, there are limits: Too much sail area capsizes the boat in brisk winds. If the boat is designed too light, she will not take any kind of punishment. Too slim a hull design and the boat becomes a large Hobie Cat capable of only carrying your lunch. Of course, too long and large and you’d have to be Bill Gates to afford one. Then there are lot of additional and very important factors like underwater hull shape, aspect ratios of boards and sails, wet deck clearance, rotating or fixed rigging and so on….” Richard Woods

All Catamarans are not equal, but all sailboats have two things in common: They travel on water and they’re wind powered, so the Catamaran design equations in the 2nd part should apply to every catamaran from a heavy cruising Cat to a true ocean racer.

Richard Wood’s comments on catamaran design:

We all know that multihulls can be made faster by making them longer or lighter or by adding more sail. Those factors are the most important and why they are used as the basis of most rating rules. However using just those figures is a bit like determining a cars performance just by its hp and curbside weight. It would also imply that a Tornado would sail as fast forwards as backwards (OK, I know I just wrote that a Catalac went faster backwards than forwards)

So what next?? Weight and length can be combined into the Slenderness Ratio (SLR). But since most multihulls have similar Depth/WL beam ratios you can pretty much say the SLR equates to the LWL/BWL ratio. Typically this will be 8-10:1 for a slow cruising catamaran (or the main hull of most trimarans), 12-14:1 for a performance cruiser and 20:1 for an extreme racer.

So by and large faster boats have finer hulls. But the wetted surface area (WSA) increases proportionately as fineness increases (for a given displacement the half orange shape gives the least WSA) so fine hulls tend to be slower in low wind speeds.

The most important catamaran design hull shape factor, is the Prismatic Coefficient (Cp). This is a measure of the fullness of the ends of the hull. Instinctively you might think that fine ends would be faster as they would “cut through the water better”. But in fact you want a high Cp for high speeds. However everything is interrelated. If you have fine hulls you can use a lower Cp. Most monohulls have a Cp of 0.55- 0.57. And that is about right for displacement speeds.

However the key to Catamaran design is you need a higher Cp if you want to sail fast. So a multihull should be at least 0.61 and a heavy displacement multihull a bit higher still. It is difficult to get much over 0.67 without a very distorted hull shape or one with excessive WSA. So all multihulls should have a Cp between 0.61 and 0.65. None of this is very special or new. It has been well known by naval architects for at least 50 years.

There are various ways of achieving a high Cp. You could fit bulb bows (as Lock Crowther did). Note this bow is a bit different from those seen on ships (which work at very specific hull speeds – which are very low for their LOA). But one problem with them is that these tend to slam in a seaway.

Another way is to have a very wide planing aft section. But that can increase WSA and leads to other problems I’ll mention in a minute. Finally you can flatten out the hull rocker (the keel shape seen from the side) and add a bustle aft. That is the approach I use, in part because that adds displacement aft, just where it is most needed.

I agree that a high Cp increases drag at low speeds. But at speeds over hull speed drag decreases dramatically on a high Cp boat relative to one with a low Cp. With the correct Cp drag can be reduced by over 10%. In other words you will go 10% faster (and that is a lot!) in the same wind and with the same sails as a boat with a unfavorable Cp. In light winds it is easy to overcome the extra drag because you have lots of stability and so can fly extra light weather sails.

The time you really need a high Cp boat is when beating to windward in a big sea. Then you don’t have the stability and really want to get to your destination fast. At least I do, I don’t mind slowly drifting along in a calm. But I hate “windward bashing”

But when you sail to windward the boat pitches. The sea isn’t like a test tank or a computer program. And here I agree with Evan. Immersed transoms will slow you down (that is why I use a narrower transom than most designers).

I also agree with Evan (and why not, he knows more about Volvo 60 design than nearly anyone else on the planet) in that I don’t think you should compare a catamaran hull to a monohull, even a racing one. Why chose a Volvo 60/Vendee boat with an immersed transom? Why not chose a 60ft Americas Cup boat with a narrow out of the water transom??

To be honest I haven’t use Michelet so cannot really comment. But I have tested model catamarans in a big test tank and I know how inaccurate tank test results can be. I cannot believe that a computer program will be better.

It would be easy to prove one way or the other though. A catamaran hull is much like a frigate hull (similar SLR, L/B ratios and Froude numbers) and there is plenty of data available for those. There is also a lot of data for the round bilge narrow non planing motorboats popular in the 1930’-50’s which again are similar to a single multihull hull.

One of the key findings I discovered with my tank test work was just how great the drag was due to wave interference between the hulls. Even a catamaran with a modern wide hull spacing had a drag increase of up to 20 % when compared to hulls at infinite spacing. One reason why just flying a hull is fast (the Cp increases when you do as well, which also helps). So you cannot just double the drag of a single hull and expect to get accurate results. And any speed prediction formula must include a windage factor if it is to give meaningful results.About 25 years ago we sailed two identical 24ft Striders next to each other. They were the same speed. Then we moved the crew of one boat to the bow. That boat IMMEDIATELY went ½ knot faster. That is why I now arrange the deck layout of my racing boats so that the crew can stay in front of the mast at all times, even when tacking or using the spinnaker.

I once raced against a bridge deck cabin catamaran whose skipper kept the 5 crew on the forward netting beam the whole race. He won.

Richard Woods of Woods Designs www.sailingcatamarans.com

Tags Buying Advice , Catamaran Designers

Owner of a Catalac 8M and Catamaransite webmaster.

2 replies on “Catamaran Hull Design”

I totally agree with what you say. But Uli only talk sailing catamarans.

If only solar power. You need the very best. As limited watts. Hp.

The closer to 1-20 the better.

Closing the hulls to fit in cheaper marina berth. ?

You say not too close. But is that for sailing only.

Any comment is greatly appreciated

Kind regards Jeppe

Superb article